I wanted to take the time to say thank you for what you do. The GC wanted $14k to remodel our upstairs small bathroom. With just your videos and a little knowhow on my end, I will finish the project one week faster on my own compared to their quote and did I mention, $10,000 cheaper. You really are a great teacher, and I should add, when you make a small error, you don't edit it out....you give us handy hubbies the helping hand we need. (with exception to the TEF cover outside your farm house..... some of us could tell you broke the locking tabs and you held it in place for the video, LOL) I may even make a custom Home RenoVision DIY plaque and mount it when my project is finished.
Thanks, Jeff. I tore out my mold infested Sheetrock and the cheap shower stall and framed in for a bigger shower stall that will have granite wall, floor and ceiling, with a rain forest shower coming out of the ceiling. I bought a new valve and was going to replace the 3 pieces of copper pipe. Seeing this video, I’ll replace the hot and cold copper pipes but replace the water line going to the rain forest shower. I saw on another video a tile guy that does his own plumbing have no water coming out of the shower when everything was completed. It turned out that he soldered in the pipe just above the valve, some of the solder got inside and plugged the opening in the valve. I think that I’ll put that copper pipe in before attaching it in place. If it’s not too difficult, I’ll do a pressure check before enclosing with cement board.
Yeah I love your work and plus I love the way you do explain to the people how to do the bathroom showers everything have to paint how to remove all the kitchen and you're amazing guy really and you do take your time explain everything to the people how to do the right thing not to make a mistakes and and I wish you keep doing a good job and continue making a videos and I wish God always be with you 😀
I had to have a shower diverter valve replaced and they charged me $1300 dollars! It took 2 hours. I got ripped off by Clearwater Plumbing in Fort Worth,Tx!
Question: Why are there a set of pipes going up and down ? Does the supply come from bottom and shared to shower adjacent ?? I sweat my valves as well, regardless of the threads on them. Kudos on setting the wallboard on the LIP of the tub & not the edge, many are not aware.
now try that with all the tile in place. Move your stud over as tight as you possibly can to your old valve. Seems all new shower valves are threaded you have to put on a female adapter than a street 90 which makes it a lot wider ( 4.5" old female slip plumbed compared to 7.5 with a moen adapters and street 90's) then the old style and not a possibility with studs in the the wall tile on it.
Wow! So first let me say, thank you. Second, nothing is wrong with the music. It was actually Not distracting at all, but rather relaxing. I cannot believe the critics here! Just keep doing what you are doing man. I have to pick up on it tomorrow. I was able to remove to old shower / tub faucet following your direction but am having some trouble because my hot and cold lines are 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch. The fitting adapter has a lip to it making it impossible to go into the 1/4 pipe. My plan is to try to sand the lip off. The only thing I would have appreciated was seeing the flux paste you used and to clarify if that is something I can use while the pipe is still hot after soldering?
Honestly, you'd have been much faster if you'd just cut that pipework out and do it all up again with new tee pieces and a couple of straight connectors. Heating fittings off and on is risky. I would say though, if you're going to continue with this method, then before heating the fittings off, put a little bit of flux on first, it'll help the solder to run. Then once you've gotten the fitting off, with a little bit of steel wool, clean the pipe whilst it's still hot, you'll find that the replacement will go on easier for you. Also, you should also have a damp cloth to hand.
You can see he moved the shower head height from 13:24 to 16:56. He did NOT show this on video that he shortened the pipe. I like his videos , he does good work.
I've watched this video (unsweating and resweating the copper) and the one you did about three years back where you hooked up pex tubing to the existing copper pipes using the shark bite connections. Do you feel equally confident about both types of connection or do you believe one is superior to the other? This would be for a single project, so the cost of the shark bite connections would not be an issue. Just wondering what you would do in your own home?
Man, your content is awesome. Thanks for the all the help. Question: on the hot and cold supply lines, why is there an extra foot or so of copper above the brass valve housing that just gets capped off? does that help with flow or something? Why not just use an elbow joint there instead?
Love your videos they are well made and clearly explained.....thank you. I do have a possible dumb question here when running a pressure test after installing the new valve do I need to turn the valve on. I would think you would so as to check the soldering connections at the shower arm connector
Is the green color a concern? Does it indicate and issue? I had watched a different channel in where the guy always says wipe off the paste after yours done or it will eat thru the copper in time. True or no?
Do you have a video or any advice on how to separate ABS pipe from a fitting? Our vent stack needs to be rerouted and all the fittings are butted end to end so there is no bare pipe that I can cut and attach a new fitting to. If there was an oversized rubber coupler that could go over the collar of the fittings, that would be ideal, but I haven't seen anything like that. Love the videos. You're my go to as I work through these renovations!
Type L isnt new, its the original type of copper pipe. Type M is the 'new' type - which is the thin wall box store $hit what you really want to find is Type K if you want longevity, that was the old "thick wall" copper pipe that they use below ground for your line entrance. 0.046" wall thickness, Type L = 0.040" wall thickness.
Would it be better to put a bracing board on the back of the valve and the supply lines? Would that also eliminate the need for the water hammer piping?
Thanks for reply. My bathroom valve is still working, but it is not pressure/temperature balanced. Want to replace it, but afraid that I will ruin the plastic wall and not sure how to do.
When you aligned the main valve 14-1/2” from the wall and not 13-1/2” like you did in a previous video, why did you do that? Can you explain the reason for this?
I was wondering why those piece of pipe stub sticking after valve inlets in all your videos. I assume it is done for a reason. Perhaps to stop hammering sound when pipe heats up?
Didn't use it to pressurize the system. It's a cap (it's actually used for rough-in) to stop water from flowing. Then they turn the water back on and by having the shower head capped (and the faucet, if you have one), you've now pressurized the system to look for leaks.
so why are the hot and cold water lines extended so far past the brass faucet? i only really see this done with copper pipe and not with other materials like PEX.
Lead solder is called soft solder here and all plumbing joints use silver solder here now, maybe 15%. Your solder joint sure looked like soft (lead solder) If lead free what's in it?
Jeff, HELP! I've removed the screws from the face and unscrewed the trim covering the line into the wall, but the handles will NOT come off. What am I missing? I can't imagine they seized on that tight... Suggestions??
I get the idea of making it simple but isn't the green on the copper pipes an indication of water leakage? It seems like those joints should have been resoldered?
Great video ! But have few comments. 1st some of the copper pipes are type M which can't be use for hot and cold water. U have to use type L copper pipe. 2nd Our days we have to use lead free solder. When u try reusing old solder First u over heat the pipe. Second old lead solder is still there. So over all u saved about $40 on material but in my opinion didn't bring up to code. Good luck
I love the video but much like your other how to videos I find the music distracting. It's a really cool video and well produced but if you can scrap the music it would be easier to follow. Thanks for the video love your stuff!
Nice video! I'd probably replace the green sections, too. The last guy didn't wipe off the flux and it's a bit corroded there. I'd hate to have a pinhole leak years later because of that. Maybe I'm a bit anal about that stuff, though.
ScubaCat3 no your right why leave old piping in with potential leaks in future that’ll cause a new bathroom to be damaged in future for repairs. Every time I rough in I replace all existing piping behind walls just for this reason.
Home RenoVision DIY I was wondering if it would be faster to just fit new pipes because you can dry fit everything then solder all the parts instead of waiting for parts to cool down
I don’t normally comment but you did a horrible job you must be a handyman not a plumber for a handyman you did okay if you call yourself a plumber come on horrible
I wanted to take the time to say thank you for what you do.
The GC wanted $14k to remodel our upstairs small bathroom.
With just your videos and a little knowhow on my end, I will finish the project one week faster on my own compared to their quote and did I mention, $10,000 cheaper.
You really are a great teacher, and I should add, when you make a small error, you don't edit it out....you give us handy hubbies the helping hand we need.
(with exception to the TEF cover outside your farm house..... some of us could tell you broke the locking tabs and you held it in place for the video, LOL)
I may even make a custom Home RenoVision DIY plaque and mount it when my project is finished.
This is legit the best diy channel on TH-cam.
Jeff takes the fear out of plumbing. Loving it!
Old school, yes. It works - I learn I lot on this channel. Old news - you are still "the man."
LOL. thanks Brian. Cheers!
Sweet man. That was slick. Done in no time. Saves 50% of the work
Cheers!
Thanks, Jeff. I tore out my mold infested Sheetrock and the cheap shower stall and framed in for a bigger shower stall that will have granite wall, floor and ceiling, with a rain forest shower coming out of the ceiling. I bought a new valve and was going to replace the 3 pieces of copper pipe. Seeing this video, I’ll replace the hot and cold copper pipes but replace the water line going to the rain forest shower. I saw on another video a tile guy that does his own plumbing have no water coming out of the shower when everything was completed. It turned out that he soldered in the pipe just above the valve, some of the solder got inside and plugged the opening in the valve. I think that I’ll put that copper pipe in before attaching it in place. If it’s not too difficult, I’ll do a pressure check before enclosing with cement board.
Yeah I love your work and plus I love the way you do explain to the people how to do the bathroom showers everything have to paint how to remove all the kitchen and you're amazing guy really and you do take your time explain everything to the people how to do the right thing not to make a mistakes and and I wish you keep doing a good job and continue making a videos and I wish God always be with you 😀
After binge watching MOST of your plumbing videos, you might take pride in knowing you taught me how to sweat copper together =)
Now I know.....another one down.keep em going Reno Ninja
Thank you cudda brown, We appreciate the comment. Cheers!
Never knew you could heat the soldering back to make the pipe come out ! Very helpfull video as always :)
Thanks Kevin, great to hear from you again. Cheers!
It's called sweating it out
Really good work. Good ideas. Thank you.
I had to have a shower diverter valve replaced and they charged me $1300 dollars! It took 2 hours. I got ripped off by Clearwater Plumbing in Fort Worth,Tx!
Gracias por tu video amigo lo haces genial Dios te bendiga
Amazingly helpful. Thank you!
Question: Why are there a set of pipes going up and down ? Does the supply come from bottom and shared to shower adjacent ?? I sweat my valves as well, regardless of the threads on them. Kudos on setting the wallboard on the LIP of the tub & not the edge, many are not aware.
I have a sneaky feeling you already know the answer to that question. Cheers!
Those are water hammer arresters.
This was a big help. Thanks.
I like oldscool. What's working for 50 years can't be that bad.
Sometimes keeping it simple means going back to the old style. This saved a ton of time.!
Thanks so much for this video. You made my live a whole lot easier.
Looks great but can I get a valve replacement in a pre-existing shower stall with such limited space?
Exactly what I needed to see, thanks Jeff!
You make things look so simple....love your channel
Thanks, Cheers!
Thanks for making these videos! I've learned a ton and I'm sure many others have as well :) Congrats on the 100k subs!
Thanks Kat, we really love making them. Cheers!
now try that with all the tile in place. Move your stud over as tight as you possibly can to your old valve. Seems all new shower valves are threaded you have to put on a female adapter than a street 90 which makes it a lot wider ( 4.5" old female slip plumbed compared to 7.5 with a moen adapters and street 90's) then the old style and not a possibility with studs in the the wall tile on it.
Thanks your videos are great
👍 thumbs up as always. Cheers from Australia
Cheers to Australia, thanks for the comment!
Always scared to solder pipes, but, might give it a try. You make it look easy. Thanks.
You can always practice on a pipe that can screw to a garden hose and see how your technique is working out.
One tip you can use to help solder is bend the tip of your solder roll to the same size of the pipe your soldering that's all you will need
Thank you so much! You explain everything so perfect!
what a joke.
Quick and efficient!
I love you man!
Wow! So first let me say, thank you. Second, nothing is wrong with the music. It was actually Not distracting at all, but rather relaxing. I cannot believe the critics here! Just keep doing what you are doing man. I have to pick up on it tomorrow. I was able to remove to old shower / tub faucet following your direction but am having some trouble because my hot and cold lines are 1/4 inch to a 1/2 inch. The fitting adapter has a lip to it making it impossible to go into the 1/4 pipe. My plan is to try to sand the lip off. The only thing I would have appreciated was seeing the flux paste you used and to clarify if that is something I can use while the pipe is still hot after soldering?
Honestly, you'd have been much faster if you'd just cut that pipework out and do it all up again with new tee pieces and a couple of straight connectors. Heating fittings off and on is risky.
I would say though, if you're going to continue with this method, then before heating the fittings off, put a little bit of flux on first, it'll help the solder to run. Then once you've gotten the fitting off, with a little bit of steel wool, clean the pipe whilst it's still hot, you'll find that the replacement will go on easier for you. Also, you should also have a damp cloth to hand.
You can see he moved the shower head height from 13:24 to 16:56. He did NOT show this on video that he shortened the pipe. I like his videos , he does good work.
Great job
I learn alot here like the other program on your channel. thank you
Glad to help Mani. Cheers!
I've watched this video (unsweating and resweating the copper) and the one you did about three years back where you hooked up pex tubing to the existing copper pipes using the shark bite connections. Do you feel equally confident about both types of connection or do you believe one is superior to the other? This would be for a single project, so the cost of the shark bite connections would not be an issue. Just wondering what you would do in your own home?
thanks for your help.
Man, your content is awesome. Thanks for the all the help. Question: on the hot and cold supply lines, why is there an extra foot or so of copper above the brass valve housing that just gets capped off? does that help with flow or something? Why not just use an elbow joint there instead?
Love the soundtrack, makes it much more pleasant to play this in the background 🤣
soooooo fuccin helpful man.. thanks a whole lot
Love your videos they are well made and clearly explained.....thank you. I do have a possible dumb question here when running a pressure test after installing the new valve do I need to turn the valve on. I would think you would so as to check the soldering connections at the shower arm connector
Legal 👍 sou do Brasil 🇧🇷
Cheers!
good job
Thank you Joseff. Cheers!
Isn’t that bad to quench the joint like you did that could cause cracks
great video!
Thanks for the comment!
excellent videos Jeff! Replacing my old 1 piece fiberglass tub/shower, have a 28 yr old Moen valve, will new ones be same so I can re-use old copper?
Great video, but personally I would go with a pex replacement. Makes it foolproof.
That is also an option. We have a video showing that process coming up in a couple months.
Great content as always!
Thanks Patrick, great to hear from you again! Cheers!
If not using map gas, heating the brass during takes forever. It is doable though
nice work
Thank you, I hope this helps!
After removing the old valve, you could just wipe the old solder out on the old pipe. Then you can insert it into the new valve. Simple.
So typically the plaster guard will always come with the shower valve right. I'll see if Ferguson plumbing has it
yes. it is part of the rough in kit. Cheers!
Is the green color a concern? Does it indicate and issue? I had watched a different channel in where the guy always says wipe off the paste after yours done or it will eat thru the copper in time. True or no?
Do you have a video or any advice on how to separate ABS pipe from a fitting? Our vent stack needs to be rerouted and all the fittings are butted end to end so there is no bare pipe that I can cut and attach a new fitting to. If there was an oversized rubber coupler that could go over the collar of the fittings, that would be ideal, but I haven't seen anything like that.
Love the videos. You're my go to as I work through these renovations!
I don't yet , but it does exist on youtube. Cheers!
I woulda cut out all the old pipe with green corrosion since u have access to the open wall. Then install new Type L.
Type L isnt new, its the original type of copper pipe. Type M is the 'new' type - which is the thin wall box store $hit
what you really want to find is Type K if you want longevity, that was the old "thick wall" copper pipe that they use below ground for your line entrance. 0.046" wall thickness, Type L = 0.040" wall thickness.
If I want to just replace the trim kit and not have to change the valve since it’s already tiled, what do I need to look for?
I need to replace the shower valve in a shower tub combo that the showers are back to back. Is the only way to remove the shower?
I put all the pipe new especially inside a wall
Would it be better to put a bracing board on the back of the valve and the supply lines? Would that also eliminate the need for the water hammer piping?
the brace is necessary but the hammer arrestors are also when using copper.
What is it he is rubbing on it after soldering?
What brand is that new valve replacement
Can I use my oxy acetylene torch for plumbing?
Check out Gerberit Mepla or Mapress
Can you do a video of valve replacement with shower tub and walls in place? Thanks.
No. As a rule if the valve has run its course so has the shower. I never recommend doing that type of repair.
Thanks for reply. My bathroom valve is still working, but it is not pressure/temperature balanced. Want to replace it, but afraid that I will ruin the plastic wall and not sure how to do.
@@arjunbangalore6236
Are you saying it's not an anti-scald valve with separate hot and cold handles?
I've never been confident enough to solder so I just use the Sharkbite fittings and PEX.
It is not that hard. Definitely a skill worth having.
It's not very expensive to buy and practice:
- Torch
- Solder
- Flux
- Copper pipe
- 90 degree fitting
what is that blue thing called that you used to check for leaks?
Handy plug
The threaded part of the new valve is not a compression fitting.it's for a female adapter..if it was a straight pipe.than u can use a fitting
When you aligned the main valve 14-1/2” from the wall and not 13-1/2” like you did in a previous video, why did you do that? Can you explain the reason for this?
I was wondering why those piece of pipe stub sticking after valve inlets in all your videos. I assume it is done for a reason. Perhaps to stop hammering sound when pipe heats up?
You got it.!
Creates an air pocket.
What’s the “blue thing” you used to pressurize the shower tubing?
Didn't use it to pressurize the system. It's a cap (it's actually used for rough-in) to stop water from flowing. Then they turn the water back on and by having the shower head capped (and the faucet, if you have one), you've now pressurized the system to look for leaks.
would'nt adding flux to the copper tubes be a good idea or do you think the flux works its way in the joint?
I sand and flux the valve prior to pushing in the pipe.
so why are the hot and cold water lines extended so far past the brass faucet? i only really see this done with copper pipe and not with other materials like PEX.
This is designed to stop the water hammer effect! This is not a problem with pex just copper.
does it hurt to put some flux on the old soldered joint when reconnecting the pipes?
nope.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY
Would you agree it's best to wipe off any excess flux after you're done soldering?
With those pipe exposed do you insulated them ? And if yes with what...thanks
no need. insulating pipes helps when they are close together or travelling long distances or past cold spaces . not in an interior wall.
Home RenoVision DIY Thanks
Another great video!!! Do you have a video on how to install a P trap to a bath tub? Thanks for
sharing.
I don't think so Paul, but it is as easy as gluing the joint and measuring where the drain hole should be.
What is flex for? Do u have to use it?
I was wondering that as well
Can you still use soft solder inside wall in Canada?
we use lead free! Not sure what the reference to soft is?
Lead solder is called soft solder here and all plumbing joints use silver solder here now, maybe 15%. Your solder joint sure looked like soft (lead solder) If lead free what's in it?
we use silver as well. Lead has kind of been deadly for a while now.
Lead isn't really deadly it just lowers your mental capacity and has other negative health effects.
@@sydneyshinshi Sounds Deadly
Jeff, HELP! I've removed the screws from the face and unscrewed the trim covering the line into the wall, but the handles will NOT come off. What am I missing? I can't imagine they seized on that tight... Suggestions??
there should be a set screw on the handle underneath. It usually needs a small allan key to remove it.
Turns out it WAS seized on there! Old house renovations... Never know what you're gonna get! Thanks!!
I get the idea of making it simple but isn't the green on the copper pipes an indication of water leakage? It seems like those joints should have been resoldered?
green is oxidation, all copper goes green over time.
What's the reason that the cold and hot water pipes go so far past the valve and then are capped off?
That stops the hammer effect.
It creates an air pocket.
Great video ! But have few comments.
1st some of the copper pipes are type M which can't be use for hot and cold water. U have to use type L copper pipe.
2nd Our days we have to use lead free solder. When u try reusing old solder First u over heat the pipe. Second old lead solder is still there.
So over all u saved about $40 on material but in my opinion didn't bring up to code. Good luck
The valve was only 20 years old. There is no lead in that solder. But I appreciate the thought.
I love the video but much like your other how to videos I find the music distracting. It's a really cool video and well produced but if you can scrap the music it would be easier to follow. Thanks for the video love your stuff!
Thanks Chris, we have changed our production process to reduce the music while instruction is going on. We hope that helps. Cheers!
Nice video! I'd probably replace the green sections, too. The last guy didn't wipe off the flux and it's a bit corroded there. I'd hate to have a pinhole leak years later because of that. Maybe I'm a bit anal about that stuff, though.
ScubaCat3 no your right why leave old piping in with potential leaks in future that’ll cause a new bathroom to be damaged in future for repairs. Every time I rough in I replace all existing piping behind walls just for this reason.
Kind of surprised you didn't damage the T joint by knocking it with the tool
Good video however I would never, ever do that without eye protection. Kind of one of the very first lessons learned.
Seriously Pat, bowling is more dangerous than plumbing.
why not just cut the old pipes out and fit new ones in?
because I don't have to! the rest of the plumbing is the same age so there is no need.
Home RenoVision DIY I was wondering if it would be faster to just fit new pipes because you can dry fit everything then solder all the parts instead of waiting for parts to cool down
Thank you for the great video. You said 10 minutes in the title but you have a 18 minutes long video LOL.
In real time it only takes 5 Minutes but filming is always a little longer.
One more for the road..lol
Cheers my friend!
Map gas eh?
LOVE IT. everything heats up so much faster then the blue tanks.
احب هذاي القنات
Thank you. Cheers!
If only everyone had a shower with no walls already in it...
I don’t normally comment but you did a horrible job you must be a handyman not a plumber for a handyman you did okay if you call yourself a plumber come on horrible