Professional powder coater here. Not a bad idea, and probably will do, in a pinch! However, most powders are polyester based, this means the don't react well to grease (WD40) or any other kind of moisture for that matter, especially when heated. This is why you get all the little swirls and bumps in your finish, this won't last long, and those spots WILL be the first to ablate with not really that much usage and time. When no electrostatic gear is available, your best bet is to mediablast the part, if you have that option and degrease it, otherwise just clean and degrease the part as best you can, and then preheat it in your oven to 150-160°C (300°F-ish) for about 10 to 15 minutes , and then apply the powder evenly, WHILE THE PART IS STILL HOT. The high surface temperature of the part will make the poly in the powder melt and adhere better than any amount of grease or glue ever will. Cure for 10 to 15 minutes at 180-200°C (350-390°F -ish). For application i would suggest some sort of gravity fed spray gun, set for very low pressure. This won't be perfect, but it will help you avoid "patches" and globs of powder, and get a uniform finish. Try spraying from a distance because you will want to avoid sputters and lumps of powder. In short: MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY, HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND AND UNIFORM COATS ARE KEY! Also, times and temperatures may vary to greater or lesser extent depending on the size and mass of your part, size of your oven, type of powder you are using,and so on...Anyway, Hope this helps! Great video,i enjoyed it!
This is the kind of comment I'd love to see more of in the comments section. No snobbery or hating, just sharing knowledge and a positive take on what he's attempted to do here. I'm considering powder coating my own motorcycle components and your comment here was very helpful to me. Thanks!
Spot on Dizzy. I had a customer that did ceramic pots that I powder-coated and used the exact same setup that you described and it worked perfectly. Silicone of any type had to bake out of the substrate before coating. Whenever I did used engine parts they had to be baked or outgassed as I called it to make sure any oils or silicones were gone before coating..
I know...old theme, I am late... but! Thats THE MAN... if we all are like HE is (This gentleman) sharing his knowledge, without any profit, we could be all progressing worldwide... my respect Sir! Regards from Serbia! (I don't have even an interest in this subject, eventually arrived to me at some point at YT, but Your sharing of info and knowledge attracted my attention, without any obstacles, and income requests. I personally dot have much interest in the matter. You offered Your (probably hardly accumulated knowledge for free), that is hard today to find even at university professor's level. Such attitude (Professors, doing private stuff, parallel with university job, because they are trying to gain more money, and treat students as future competition, so they are hiding their knowledge (not all of them, I agree, because majority of them doesn't even have any practical one, they are repeating to the students same "old" books that they learned 30 or so yrs ago, and they didn't advanced any more ... my respect.
I have never heard of coating using this method, I use to powder coat professionally and the prep work is crucial for quality parts. I'm really surprised it did not come out with fish eyes, out gassing and porosity all over. I think for what it is it turned out darn good especially if you took a bit more care to coat it with the WD40. very cool video man! I enjoyed that.
I powder coat daily also , who the fuck would spray oil on something and powder coat it , I imagine the first shot out of the gun would crack that contaminated powder right off the metal .
@@g7mks383 Actually that is just the simpleton way to discredit some one with out using facts on the actual subject at hand to do it. Low intelligence? You offered nothing what so ever to the debate. Only a critique of his personality. You = epic fail
He has obviously done this before and knows the results. He said it is substantially more durable then just spray painting it. So an inteligent person would deduce that there is obviously a scientific reason for what is going on. Probably a chemical reaction and molecular change occurring in the heat that we're not aware of. Fisheyes are caused by a variety of contaminates. Oils being one of them. What we just saw defy a coating specialists logic. So instead of being ignorant, recognize when something new comes along and develop a desire to want to know HOW and WHY this is even remotely possible. It's called science. I own a 25 year old metal, wood, stone commercial, and residential refinishing company. I see this and immediately want to know the science behind it. That's the difference in a leader and followers who have to be taught, instead of teaching them selves.
Don't normally watch these kinds of videos. Short technical attention span. This was clear, informative, interesting and to the point. Thanks.(Good speaking voice too)
This might be the best video I have ever watched! The voice, the DIY aspect and the response (from the PC community) make this a must watch. The comments alone offer hours of "head scratching" entertainment. Thank you for sharing this with the world!!
Who woulda thunk? Learn something every day I guess. Thanks for the video, and special thanks for not ruining the video with obnoxious, distracting, and irritating background "music" that is all too prevalent here on TH-cam.
For what it's worth, I worked in a factory that did a lot of powder coating on steel and aluminum. The black, blue and red colors all did best. Any of the other colors were more finicky. Especially yellow. This is a very cool DIY method for such "components" I may try it out some time. Thanks!
That's strictly for ad revenue. He can say "AR-15 lower receiver" and it's ok on TH-cam, but his video will be demonetized because of advertiser flight whenever there's TH-cam controversy.
I like to use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy when I need a 'powder coated' finish. I spray it on, allow it to become touch dry, and then bake it in pretty much the same way you baked the powder coat. It is rock hard, very scratch resitant, and is also resistant to all of the usual solvents, and even some really harsh ones like acetone and MEK.
I used Rustoleum hammer coat oil based paint for a motorcycle spare gas tank... And after the first fill-up, I discovered that even after an extended cure time including heat, that particular paint of their's is NOT fuel tolerant... So, I ended up stripping it off and powder coating it white instead... :(
Amazing! Extremely useful, especially to powder coat metal tools where protection is more important than looks. Thank you for sharing! I just need a sacrificial toaster oven now.
2nd application possible. I play with a cheap powder gun and learned that if the 1st coat has thin or missed spots reheat the part (sub gloss temp) apply more powder to to bare area and return into the oven and cook until glossy. I do reconnect the electrostatic leads to help attract the powder to the bare area but the hot metal may allow sticking of the powder. Thank you for sharing your wd40 method.
Really enjoy your videos. I'm really curious about the durability using this method. I hope you'll do a second video about the durability of this method of powder coating.
I'm curious if any other penetrating oils have a lower viscosity out of the can, that and if the WD-40 just bakes off in the oven? Doesn't it affect the coat's adhesion to the metal? It also seems like using gloves during and after the washing to keep the part clean would help as well. I wonder if there are any two part products that use a liquid spreading part A, and then a powdered Part B.
I just happened to see this video,.and talk about timely,.... I have just such an item that can benefit from a bit of coating like this. I`m going to give this a try; I thank you sir, for this tutorial video. Thumbs up, I would say!
Has anyone else tried this? I'm restoring an old tool box with friction slides, and looking for coating/sealing options (the search brought me here) for the steel slides after I've removed all the rust down to bare metal. How durable would this coating be in a friction application? I'm thinking this might be my best bet, as the added thickness of the coating would also snug up the slop in the slide channels, and render a smooth(ish) surface to adhere anti-friction tape.
I had a job when I first graduated where we would use a lot of those components. People where I worked could be real hard cases about the importance of doing proper inventory, for whatever reason
@@MarcillaSmith I remember that... and the paperwork you had to fill out when you returned from the job site with a broken tool... guess we didn't use the tool as gently as intended.
You note that the powder coat is micro thin, but superior adhesion to a spray paint coating. Could the powder coated part be spray painted as a secondary coating to provide a thicker, more resilient coating?
Great info brother. I didn’t even know you could do power coating at home until you made this video. When you mentioned needing to “refit” a couple of pin holes, etc.. would that be removing the finish in the pin hole, or turning down the pins? Is it possible to do a second coat on the areas that didn’t get good coverage? You have opened my mind to many possibilities with this!
You could probably do the re-fitting either way; I did it by inserting a drill bit into the holes after finishing and turning the bit through a few revolutions just by hand. I'm not sure about adding a second coat of finish--I haven't tried that yet.
This Video was Just what I was looking for . I wonder how it will work with Harbor Freight Flat Black Powder. I've tried the H F Flat Black on cast bullets but it was too rough so I mixed it with H.F. Gloss White and got a better result but that's with bullets , not with my current project .
Very neat demonstration, i wouldnt have guessed it would have yielded so positive a result! I have never been happy with powder coating, it has never held up under use.
Thanks for posting this very interesting video. I had no idea that this method of powder coating was possible, and, as you mentioned in the video, while it might not yield perfect results, it´s a better option than a spray can, which would be the only viable alternative for me. I´d also like to mention how much I envy you the freedom to own the item of which this part is a component!
have you considered electro-plating your parts? I haven't seen a video of yours with an electrolysis machine, but they can be made easily from a computer power supply and have many practical applications, including plating, removing rust and even making pure silver from impure silver shot.
Have you ever tried making powder coated lead bullets instead of copper jacketing? I hear harbor freight red works well and I'd imagine that shake and bake method would be perfect for such an application.
VERY COOL! I also used to do Powder Coating professionally. I really like the ingenious approach for the job. I wonder, would the WD40 coating have been uniform if it was sprayed on from a distance of about 12 inches? I would also CLEAN the part with MEK instead of a soap based agent. ESPECIALLY on aluminum, soap is caustic and attacks aluminum which can cause outgassing - ALSO - pre-bake the the item to relieve trapped gasses. I would also HANG the part instead of laying it down. AND use a Temperature Probe to verify proper temperature. You do NOT want to get too hot especially with aluminum... It will lose it's temper. GOOD JOB !
Cool idea, would you mind doing a short clip on the "shake and bake method" and why that wouldn't have worked. I'm assuming it's just dropping the part into a bag of powder, do you coat part with any thing to get it to stick?
Curing powder coat paint requires 400° F. Don't know if Boiled Linseed oil would hold up to that heat without cooking badly. But heh, maybe worth a try.
Traffer wd40 is supposed to be fishoil. To use linseed oil as a metal coating you can either just let it dry or heat it until it cooks. I don’t know what temperature that is I have only ever used a torch to cook it.
@@anomamos9095 The coating that the Idahoan put on the receiver was Powder Coat. It is a polymer that has to "bake" on. It is baked in an oven at 400°F for 20 minutes. I don't know what the smoke point of WD 40 is but it must be well over 400° because it didn't smoke when he baked it. Linseed oil is one of the lowest smoke point oils on the market. It starts smoking at about 240°. That means that it would be a billowing mess if you tried to bake it. As far as WD40 being a "fish oil" that is a myth. There are no organic oils in it. purely petroleum based. There. Now you know.
@@HansFormerlyTraffer The WD40 boiled/evaporated off. Still, I have to wonder how well the polymer could have gotten into the pores of the metal while WD40 was gassing out. Bet $1 that finish flakes off too easily.
I work for a gym equipment factory you cleaned it oiled it to make it stick can you spray it on? maybe a small cheap air brush or even a squeeze bottle ? just a thought I see them stray the powder on all the time before the parts go in the oven. it's not my job I just see them doing it
Nice work! The spots that didn't get the pigment are still likely coated, they just didn't get the coloring to flow into those spots. Going to have to try this.
I don't know how much static charge is required to achieve the desired uniform coat, but I wonder if a static grass applicator (from the diorama/model railway etc world) might make a suitable replacement for the commercial do-dad?
Wait, is that thicker or thinner than regular powder coating? This would be great to do with some non critical parts to get used to it and then buy an applicator tool once you’re used to the powders and baking
Brilliant! Never knew it was possible; could 2coats be done? Could one lightly sand to get a more polished appearance? Is WD40 only substance one can use for this? Kindest Bob in England
This does make me wonder if your component, or a similar one, could be coated with something like Hi-Tek liquid coating, typically used for cast lead components. Certainly more expensive than this method, but it might yield more uniform results and be reasonably economical if you had a lot of components to treat.
WD40 can be bought in one gallon cans at the big box stores. I wonder if you dipped such a part entirely in the WD40 then powdered it, it might have turned out better?
Spectacular thank you for your knowledge and expertise question could you spray it down with WD40 and let it drip dry/ damp somewhat for an hour and then powder coated would that achieve better coating
Never seen this method before and I would certainly never do this myself as the result doesn't look great at all, .. But its interesting so thanks for sharing.
@@carmichaelmoritz8662 There are a number of comparisons of baked on paint vs normal cure vs powder coat... Generally, powder coat beats them all by a decent amount, but baked still is better than straight curing since the volatile chemicals are driven out quicker and so it hardens better. That said, there are also other options for coatings like anodizing, blueing etc which might be better suited to your applications too...
What if you cleaned thoroughly, masked the areas not required, sprayed generously and then dropped into a container full of powered? Similar to dredging a piece of chicken in flour? Think you’d get a better coverage
Could you spray the WD-40 on and wipe it with a wet patch and let it "flow" to even out? Still doesn't look too bad considering I never even thought of this as a possibility until now.
I'm not sure but I think that part was some component of a leftists butt plug applicator. The algorithm will never take down such videos that are so important to silicon valley.
Somehow it never occurred to me what powder coating means, I assumed it looks similar to spray painting rather than a salt shaker type of thing. Maybe putting the part in a box with sufficient powder and shaking the box violently for a few minutes would give a better coat?
Big soft fluffy make-up atrist brush would cause a near perfect mist of smaller particles, maybe by jently tapping it around the part would maybe achieve a more consistant thinner coating?😉👍
Peter August the guy who replied automotive springs, what he meant to say is the powdercoat is mostly for metal parts on cars that your trying to preserve, most people would think automotive when you mention powdercoat
@@peteraugust5295 OEM auto parts are almost always powder coated, Do you work in the automotive industry? Every tonka truck and race car has powdercoated something because the parts come in bare metal and they are custom fit, they dont just leave it bare metal you have to coat it. What do you possibly know about automotive powdercoat when its part of my job.
This is great, most of us don’t have or have access to professional equipment and is for our own use, if anyone complains about what I did to my metal, they can take it to a professional and pay for it for me.
Very interesting method. I’m curious if this would work for powder coating MDF. I’m thinking shellac, then WD40, then powder, then bake. Or is there already a way to powder coat MDF parts?
MDF really shouldn't be exposed to heat above about 85-90C (170-180F) which is still very (too) low for powder coating. You can however, use normal primer and spray paint and then get the temp up to near this range to get a slightly tougher finish. (Note: the cure temp of most powder coats is only a few 10s of degrees from the auto-ignition temperature, so it really isn't a good idea)
Just buy a powder coating gun. They’re $75 from Harbor Freight or Eastwood and both work great. The results will be light years beyond this. Seriously, all you need to powder coat professionally is a cheap gun ($75), and air compressor (you probably have one, a pancake will work), and an oven. Also, probably some high temp masking tape, and acetone. Seriously, that’s it. I used to do this at work with the Harbor Freight Gun. It yields pro results with good powders.
Thank You so much. I have wondered for years if Powder Coating could be done at home. Do you recommend a separate oven? And where do you get the powder coating powder?
I bought the powder from Eastwood, although there are several online suppliers. The powder coat gives off a distinctive odor when it is heated, so I do recommend using a separate oven so that your food doesn't end up smelling like hot plastic from that point forward.
*I know exactly what that is: it is a component of the turbo encabulator manifold, that using the threads, connects to a klein bottle tribolumeter, which measures the output velocity of the corundum lined harmonic power take off spindle. The square section is for a hydraulic linear sleeve bearing slide that mates to a hand scraped gear pump surface oil recirculating labyrinth seal. There are a few O-rings that go in there too.*
I think the results are decent considering the method. I am thinking of powder coating a few small items and did not want to invest the money for the gun. It seems a reasonable experiment to try. Thanks for sharing. If nothing else lets folks know there is a alternative to try on the cheap.
Some tips for your next at home DIY. - The powder was put on way too thick. That's why your finish is so bad. Get yourself a powder blower for a few bucks. Even a powder brush or hand squeeze for things like finger printing would work. You just need enough powder to cover it. - Might want to try and heat it up to 410 degrees and "hot shot" it. Hang it and cover it quickly then put it back in the oven. Though with your example here a stand it sits on with the plug would've worked. The powder starts to cook on contact and sticks. Shouldn't need to use wd40 even without grounding/positive charge. If kept at temp and not allowed to go down below about 330 you can pull it out and cover any spots you missed and put back in for a final cook. If you're careful there most likely won't be any orange peel. Try it first with a piece of scrap from the yard of the same-ish material. - At home anodize isn't difficult and most of the stuff can be reused. Alternate to powder coating for aluminum.
Ive got the same model ice cream dispencer as seen in vid. Mine is old enough to be C&R but the bottom isn't the original because they're so high and have that extra selection. The top (as you can imagine seeing service) is dinged up and scratched anything on filling before this step?
Great Video.... I never knew this method existed. But I have to admit, to a reloader, the bucket'o brass was, like having a pole dancer in the background. LOL
I'm having issues with the shake and bake method for some lead pills and was wondering if you think this will work effectively for smaller lead objects as well.
WD-40 dries pretty quick, do you have to do this while it's wet? And can you just flood the part with the lube then shake it off to be sure there are no "missed" spots?
Have you ever thought about making a gun barrel out of Tungsten alloy ? Since the melting point is so high and the material pretty hard, It would be the perfect material for a high velocity caliber.
Adragontattoo th-cam.com/video/n5kEj5ijChc/w-d-xo.html watch this Video, Its not brittle, they use an alloy with 90%W 10% Nickel Iron, and its possible to machine.
Frank Brockman It would be a little more than twice as heavy as a normal barrel, for a small caliber that wouldnt be much of a change, might actually reduce the recoil. The price Is higher than a normal gun barrel, 12 inch long tungsten rods cost 350$ so you would neet 2 of them, i think it would cost 700-800 bucks , but you would get that back because your barrel lives longer.
@@yaykruser that is only machinable with diamond tools (there are other types but they are just as expensive) and that is just a tungsten cube in the video (could be tungsten carbide), which is very brittle. And The only reason the cube didnt shatter was due to it being one solid mass, and not a more complet shape like a gun barrel. And while I dont fully know the properties of the alloy you mentioned im guessing that it will be similarly hard and brittle. Just because most tungsten alloys are.
@@yaykruser also while there are definite problems with making a tungsten barrel, it would be very interesting since you could technically use steel ammo in a tungsten barrel
1:11 Simple Green attacks aluminum. Maybe not a problem and etching may even be a benefit when powder coating. There is an aluminum safe version of Simple Green.
Professional powder coater here. Not a bad idea, and probably will do, in a pinch! However, most powders are polyester based, this means the don't react well to grease (WD40) or any other kind of moisture for that matter, especially when heated. This is why you get all the little swirls and bumps in your finish, this won't last long, and those spots WILL be the first to ablate with not really that much usage and time. When no electrostatic gear is available, your best bet is to mediablast the part, if you have that option and degrease it, otherwise just clean and degrease the part as best you can, and then preheat it in your oven to 150-160°C (300°F-ish) for about 10 to 15 minutes , and then apply the powder evenly, WHILE THE PART IS STILL HOT. The high surface temperature of the part will make the poly in the powder melt and adhere better than any amount of grease or glue ever will. Cure for 10 to 15 minutes at 180-200°C (350-390°F -ish). For application i would suggest some sort of gravity fed spray gun, set for very low pressure. This won't be perfect, but it will help you avoid "patches" and globs of powder, and get a uniform finish. Try spraying from a distance because you will want to avoid sputters and lumps of powder. In short: MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY, HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND AND UNIFORM COATS ARE KEY! Also, times and temperatures may vary to greater or lesser extent depending on the size and mass of your part, size of your oven, type of powder you are using,and so on...Anyway, Hope this helps! Great video,i enjoyed it!
This is the kind of comment I'd love to see more of in the comments section. No snobbery or hating, just sharing knowledge and a positive take on what he's attempted to do here. I'm considering powder coating my own motorcycle components and your comment here was very helpful to me. Thanks!
Spot on Dizzy. I had a customer that did ceramic pots that I powder-coated and used the exact same setup that you described and it worked perfectly. Silicone of any type had to bake out of the substrate before coating. Whenever I did used engine parts they had to be baked or outgassed as I called it to make sure any oils or silicones were gone before coating..
Thanks for the input.. you covered everything I wanted to know about powder coating without electrostatic
I know...old theme, I am late... but! Thats THE MAN... if we all are like HE is (This gentleman) sharing his knowledge, without any profit, we could be all progressing worldwide... my respect Sir! Regards from Serbia! (I don't have even an interest in this subject, eventually arrived to me at some point at YT, but Your sharing of info and knowledge attracted my attention, without any obstacles, and income requests. I personally dot have much interest in the matter. You offered Your (probably hardly accumulated knowledge for free), that is hard today to find even at university professor's level. Such attitude (Professors, doing private stuff, parallel with university job, because they are trying to gain more money, and treat students as future competition, so they are hiding their knowledge (not all of them, I agree, because majority of them doesn't even have any practical one, they are repeating to the students same "old" books that they learned 30 or so yrs ago, and they didn't advanced any more ... my respect.
I have never heard of coating using this method, I use to powder coat professionally and the prep work is crucial for quality parts. I'm really surprised it did not come out with fish eyes, out gassing and porosity all over. I think for what it is it turned out darn good especially if you took a bit more care to coat it with the WD40. very cool video man! I enjoyed that.
@Croxbone Also silicone will do this to powder coating, found out the hard way.
I powder coat daily also , who the fuck would spray oil on something and powder coat it , I imagine the first shot out of the gun would crack that contaminated powder right off the metal .
@@andrewspence7635 Low intelligence is indicated by the use of expletives, we have no need to use such language to describe what we want to say.
@@g7mks383 Actually that is just the simpleton way to discredit some one with out using facts on the actual subject at hand to do it. Low intelligence? You offered nothing what so ever to the debate. Only a critique of his personality.
You = epic fail
He has obviously done this before and knows the results. He said it is substantially more durable then just spray painting it. So an inteligent person would deduce that there is obviously a scientific reason for what is going on. Probably a chemical reaction and molecular change occurring in the heat that we're not aware of. Fisheyes are caused by a variety of contaminates. Oils being one of them. What we just saw defy a coating specialists logic. So instead of being ignorant, recognize when something new comes along and develop a desire to want to know HOW and WHY this is even remotely possible. It's called science.
I own a 25 year old metal, wood, stone commercial, and residential refinishing company. I see this and immediately want to know the science behind it. That's the difference in a leader and followers who have to be taught, instead of teaching them selves.
You have the perfect narration skills for military training films or the turbo encabulator parody.
Don't normally watch these kinds of videos. Short technical attention span. This was clear, informative, interesting and to the point. Thanks.(Good speaking voice too)
This might be the best video I have ever watched! The voice, the DIY aspect and the response (from the PC community) make this a must watch. The comments alone offer hours of "head scratching" entertainment. Thank you for sharing this with the world!!
Who woulda thunk? Learn something every day I guess. Thanks for the video, and special thanks for not ruining the video with obnoxious, distracting, and irritating background "music" that is all too prevalent here on TH-cam.
There will always be detractors for every thing! I think this is amazing and offers everyone the opportunity to powder coat. Thank you sir!
For what it's worth, I worked in a factory that did a lot of powder coating on steel and aluminum. The black, blue and red colors all did best. Any of the other colors were more finicky. Especially yellow. This is a very cool DIY method for such "components" I may try it out some time. Thanks!
That moment that you realize you live in a world where people feel like they can only refer to this as a "component" part.
That's strictly for ad revenue. He can say "AR-15 lower receiver" and it's ok on TH-cam, but his video will be demonetized because of advertiser flight whenever there's TH-cam controversy.
I like to use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy when I need a 'powder coated' finish. I spray it on, allow it to become touch dry, and then bake it in pretty much the same way you baked the powder coat. It is rock hard, very scratch resitant, and is also resistant to all of the usual solvents, and even some really harsh ones like acetone and MEK.
I used Rustoleum hammer coat oil based paint for a motorcycle spare gas tank... And after the first fill-up, I discovered that even after an extended cure time including heat, that particular paint of their's is NOT fuel tolerant... So, I ended up stripping it off and powder coating it white instead... :(
Amazing! Extremely useful, especially to powder coat metal tools where protection is more important than looks. Thank you for sharing! I just need a sacrificial toaster oven now.
2nd application possible. I play with a cheap powder gun and learned that if the 1st coat has thin or missed spots reheat the part (sub gloss temp) apply more powder to to bare area and return into the oven and cook until glossy. I do reconnect the electrostatic leads to help attract the powder to the bare area but the hot metal may allow sticking of the powder. Thank you for sharing your wd40 method.
Really enjoy your videos. I'm really curious about the durability using this method. I hope you'll do a second video about the durability of this method of powder coating.
I'm curious if any other penetrating oils have a lower viscosity out of the can, that and if the WD-40 just bakes off in the oven? Doesn't it affect the coat's adhesion to the metal?
It also seems like using gloves during and after the washing to keep the part clean would help as well.
I wonder if there are any two part products that use a liquid spreading part A, and then a powdered Part B.
15 years in powder coating and then this.... Awesome 👍
Thanks for the video, if you spayed the WD40 all over first would that give a more even coating rather than wiping on.
I just happened to see this video,.and talk about timely,.... I have just such an item that can benefit from a bit of coating like this.
I`m going to give this a try; I thank you sir, for this tutorial video.
Thumbs up, I would say!
I have always wondered how powder coating is done. Thank you so much.
Bot
You accidentally learned how to dry green wood in the process
Has anyone else tried this? I'm restoring an old tool box with friction slides, and looking for coating/sealing options (the search brought me here) for the steel slides after I've removed all the rust down to bare metal. How durable would this coating be in a friction application? I'm thinking this might be my best bet, as the added thickness of the coating would also snug up the slop in the slide channels, and render a smooth(ish) surface to adhere anti-friction tape.
A little rough looking but plenty good enough for that flux capacitor component. Hey, it's a tool, not a museum piece.
THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID! 😂
I had a job when I first graduated where we would use a lot of those components. People where I worked could be real hard cases about the importance of doing proper inventory, for whatever reason
@@MarcillaSmith I remember that... and the paperwork you had to fill out when you returned from the job site with a broken tool... guess we didn't use the tool as gently as intended.
With practice.id say you could get it perfect.maybe try some thing else other than WD-40.key the steel.etc..
You note that the powder coat is micro thin, but superior adhesion to a spray paint coating. Could the powder coated part be spray painted as a secondary coating to provide a thicker, more resilient coating?
Do you think a static grass applicator used in scale models might work. It uses a static charge to evenly stick powdered grass to a glue surface 💚🇮🇪
Great info brother. I didn’t even know you could do power coating at home until you made this video. When you mentioned needing to “refit” a couple of pin holes, etc.. would that be removing the finish in the pin hole, or turning down the pins? Is it possible to do a second coat on the areas that didn’t get good coverage? You have opened my mind to many possibilities with this!
You could probably do the re-fitting either way; I did it by inserting a drill bit into the holes after finishing and turning the bit through a few revolutions just by hand. I'm not sure about adding a second coat of finish--I haven't tried that yet.
This Video was Just what I was looking for . I wonder how it will work with Harbor Freight Flat Black Powder. I've tried the H F Flat Black on cast bullets but it was too rough so I mixed it with H.F. Gloss White and got a better result but that's with bullets , not with my current project .
Try spraying it with WD40 and then blowing off the excess WD40 with canned air.
Very neat demonstration, i wouldnt have guessed it would have yielded so positive a result!
I have never been happy with powder coating, it has never held up under use.
Always nice to learn new techniques to work with metal
Thanks for posting this very interesting video. I had no idea that this method of powder coating was possible, and, as you mentioned in the video, while it might not yield perfect results, it´s a better option than a spray can, which would be the only viable alternative for me.
I´d also like to mention how much I envy you the freedom to own the item of which this part is a component!
Why is the FCG pocket of the complex aluminum part not completely milled?
have you considered electro-plating your parts? I haven't seen a video of yours with an electrolysis machine, but they can be made easily from a computer power supply and have many practical applications, including plating, removing rust and even making pure silver from impure silver shot.
It's hard to protect the threads in an electroplating process.
Paint the threads with a thick layer of spray paint you blow into a cap, remove afterwards with acetone
Picked up a powder coater at Harbor Freight works very very well and pretty inexpensive but I'm not too big on Powder Coating in the end.
Have you ever tried making powder coated lead bullets instead of copper jacketing? I hear harbor freight red works well and I'd imagine that shake and bake method would be perfect for such an application.
Do you eat fucking crayons?
@@Jakrr1346 I was never in the Marines, no.
VERY COOL! I also used to do Powder Coating professionally. I really like the ingenious approach for the job. I wonder, would the WD40 coating have been uniform if it was sprayed on from a distance of about 12 inches? I would also CLEAN the part with MEK instead of a soap based agent. ESPECIALLY on aluminum, soap is caustic and attacks aluminum which can cause outgassing - ALSO - pre-bake the the item to relieve trapped gasses. I would also HANG the part instead of laying it down. AND use a Temperature Probe to verify proper temperature. You do NOT want to get too hot especially with aluminum... It will lose it's temper. GOOD JOB !
Cool idea, would you mind doing a short clip on the "shake and bake method" and why that wouldn't have worked. I'm assuming it's just dropping the part into a bag of powder, do you coat part with any thing to get it to stick?
interesting method... how does this compare to anodising?
How long was baking time ? Cool video thnx
Does all the WD40 burn off so that the powder properly adheres to the metal?
Boiled linseed oil is used as a steel coating, I wonder what results you’d get dunking the object into that instead of WD40?
Linseed oil is to ascetic but works really well with carbon steel especially when it is heated first and multiple coats.
Curing powder coat paint requires 400° F. Don't know if Boiled Linseed oil would hold up to that heat without cooking badly. But heh, maybe worth a try.
Traffer wd40 is supposed to be fishoil. To use linseed oil as a metal coating you can either just let it dry or heat it until it cooks. I don’t know what temperature that is I have only ever used a torch to cook it.
@@anomamos9095 The coating that the Idahoan put on the receiver was Powder Coat. It is a polymer that has to "bake" on. It is baked in an oven at 400°F for 20 minutes. I don't know what the smoke point of WD 40 is but it must be well over 400° because it didn't smoke when he baked it. Linseed oil is one of the lowest smoke point oils on the market. It starts smoking at about 240°. That means that it would be a billowing mess if you tried to bake it. As far as WD40 being a "fish oil" that is a myth. There are no organic oils in it. purely petroleum based. There. Now you know.
@@HansFormerlyTraffer The WD40 boiled/evaporated off. Still, I have to wonder how well the polymer could have gotten into the pores of the metal while WD40 was gassing out. Bet $1 that finish flakes off too easily.
For the parts that were not coated well... Now that it has been baked once... Can you now apply more wd40, and more powder and bake it again?
I work for a gym equipment factory you cleaned it oiled it to make it stick can you spray it on? maybe a small cheap air brush or even a squeeze bottle ? just a thought I see them stray the powder on all the time before the parts go in the oven. it's not my job I just see them doing it
Nice work! The spots that didn't get the pigment are still likely coated, they just didn't get the coloring to flow into those spots. Going to have to try this.
I don't know how much static charge is required to achieve the desired uniform coat, but I wonder if a static grass applicator (from the diorama/model railway etc world) might make a suitable replacement for the commercial do-dad?
I wonder if this method will work on an AR15 lower receiver and its intricate geometries?
Would it be an option to try a second coat specifically concentrating on the spots that were light or missed?
Wait, is that thicker or thinner than regular powder coating? This would be great to do with some non critical parts to get used to it and then buy an applicator tool once you’re used to the powders and baking
Interesting idea. Thanks for the video. Wonder if the $70 powder coat gun at harbor freight would do good.
Rust-oleum not good enough ?
Brilliant! Never knew it was possible; could 2coats be done? Could one lightly sand to get a more polished appearance? Is WD40 only substance one can use for this?
Kindest
Bob in England
This does make me wonder if your component, or a similar one, could be coated with something like Hi-Tek liquid coating, typically used for cast lead components. Certainly more expensive than this method, but it might yield more uniform results and be reasonably economical if you had a lot of components to treat.
WD40 can be bought in one gallon cans at the big box stores. I wonder if you dipped such a part entirely in the WD40 then powdered it, it might have turned out better?
Spectacular thank you for your knowledge and expertise question could you spray it down with WD40 and let it drip dry/ damp somewhat for an hour and then powder coated would that achieve better coating
Never seen this method before and I would certainly never do this myself as the result doesn't look great at all, .. But its interesting so thanks for sharing.
I've been planning to do the same thing using a vibratory Tumbler. Although I think I would jam some toothpicks into the holes where detents go.
This was great. Thank you for showing that it could be done.
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I had previously not heard of the WD 40 method. THANK YOU for sharing that! One question, did the WD 40 give off any smoke when you baked it?
I didn't notice any appreciable amount of smoke when it was baking, but my shop is fairly well-ventilated.
@@TheIdahoanShow will this method hold up better then baked on paint ?
@@carmichaelmoritz8662 There are a number of comparisons of baked on paint vs normal cure vs powder coat... Generally, powder coat beats them all by a decent amount, but baked still is better than straight curing since the volatile chemicals are driven out quicker and so it hardens better. That said, there are also other options for coatings like anodizing, blueing etc which might be better suited to your applications too...
What if you cleaned thoroughly, masked the areas not required, sprayed generously and then dropped into a container full of powered? Similar to dredging a piece of chicken in flour? Think you’d get a better coverage
I think I talked to you at a gunshow many years back... probably about 15 or more years ago. You are as interesting now as you were then.
Could you spray the WD-40 on and wipe it with a wet patch and let it "flow" to even out? Still doesn't look too bad considering I never even thought of this as a possibility until now.
Awesome video, I have a few car parts I'm going to try this on ! Thank You!!
Very Helpful, Very Entertaining, AND Very well done! Thank you Sir!
lol loved your description of the component good job in keeping it off the radar :)
I'm not sure but I think that part was some component of a leftists butt plug applicator. The algorithm will never take down such videos that are so important to silicon valley.
I use a similar method on ribs, but I use Zattaraine’s crab boil red oil & Rocket Fire rub.
Somehow it never occurred to me what powder coating means, I assumed it looks similar to spray painting rather than a salt shaker type of thing.
Maybe putting the part in a box with sufficient powder and shaking the box violently for a few minutes would give a better coat?
Big soft fluffy make-up atrist brush would cause a near perfect mist of smaller particles, maybe by jently tapping it around the part would maybe achieve a more consistant thinner coating?😉👍
If you want a KFC effect... 😁
Interesting. the Result looks terrible, but you never know when this might be the best option you got. Thanks for sharing!
Peter August automotive springs
@@aterack833 ?
Peter August the guy who replied automotive springs, what he meant to say is the powdercoat is mostly for metal parts on cars that your trying to preserve, most people would think automotive when you mention powdercoat
@@OrangeBananaMongoose But Powdercoat is not mostly for car parts. Actually hardly any car parts are powder coated.
@@peteraugust5295 OEM auto parts are almost always powder coated, Do you work in the automotive industry? Every tonka truck and race car has powdercoated something because the parts come in bare metal and they are custom fit, they dont just leave it bare metal you have to coat it. What do you possibly know about automotive powdercoat when its part of my job.
I've always wondered, the places you missed - can you go back over them and re-cook the part?
This is great, most of us don’t have or have access to professional equipment and is for our own use, if anyone complains about what I did to my metal, they can take it to a professional and pay for it for me.
Never considered this method. Maybe I need to give some of my 3M spray adhesive a try.
Wonder if this works well with the Harbor freight powder coat system? Maybe spray it down with wd 1st?
That part looks just like the main frame of a girl scout cookie dispenser. Correct?
freedom flavored cookie despenser*
Nah its a freedom button dispenser.
Plumbic seed planting device
I believe its a freedom seed dispenser.
I thought it was a dispenser for the new Magnum PEZ
I learned something today....thanks!
Very interesting method. I’m curious if this would work for powder coating MDF. I’m thinking shellac, then WD40, then powder, then bake. Or is there already a way to powder coat MDF parts?
MDF really shouldn't be exposed to heat above about 85-90C (170-180F) which is still very (too) low for powder coating. You can however, use normal primer and spray paint and then get the temp up to near this range to get a slightly tougher finish. (Note: the cure temp of most powder coats is only a few 10s of degrees from the auto-ignition temperature, so it really isn't a good idea)
My life has changed for the good since watching this video
Loved it! Nice surprise! I'll most definitely try it when the right time comes along, thank you for posting!
Just buy a powder coating gun. They’re $75 from Harbor Freight or Eastwood and both work great. The results will be light years beyond this. Seriously, all you need to powder coat professionally is a cheap gun ($75), and air compressor (you probably have one, a pancake will work), and an oven. Also, probably some high temp masking tape, and acetone. Seriously, that’s it. I used to do this at work with the Harbor Freight Gun. It yields pro results with good powders.
I toooooo have of this method, thought there was only one method. You mentioned another and I will look up that too. Thank you....WAY COOL
I'd suggest running dowels through the pin holes to avoid refitting.
Can you reapply the wd40 and another coat of plastic?
Thank You so much. I have wondered for years if Powder Coating could be done at home. Do you recommend a separate oven? And where do you get the powder coating powder?
I bought the powder from Eastwood, although there are several online suppliers. The powder coat gives off a distinctive odor when it is heated, so I do recommend using a separate oven so that your food doesn't end up smelling like hot plastic from that point forward.
Love your methods, Good Luck to you and yours.
*I know exactly what that is: it is a component of the turbo encabulator manifold, that using the threads, connects to a klein bottle tribolumeter, which measures the output velocity of the corundum lined harmonic power take off spindle. The square section is for a hydraulic linear sleeve bearing slide that mates to a hand scraped gear pump surface oil recirculating labyrinth seal. There are a few O-rings that go in there too.*
CORRECTION:::New model component
and the noobs in here accepted that description lock, stock and barrel, yes?
I think the results are decent considering the method.
I am thinking of powder coating a few small items and did not want to invest the money for the gun. It seems a reasonable experiment to try. Thanks for sharing. If nothing else lets folks know there is a alternative to try on the cheap.
Uh, doesn't simple green attack aluminum?
Some tips for your next at home DIY.
- The powder was put on way too thick. That's why your finish is so bad. Get yourself a powder blower for a few bucks. Even a powder brush or hand squeeze for things like finger printing would work. You just need enough powder to cover it.
- Might want to try and heat it up to 410 degrees and "hot shot" it. Hang it and cover it quickly then put it back in the oven. Though with your example here a stand it sits on with the plug would've worked. The powder starts to cook on contact and sticks. Shouldn't need to use wd40 even without grounding/positive charge. If kept at temp and not allowed to go down below about 330 you can pull it out and cover any spots you missed and put back in for a final cook. If you're careful there most likely won't be any orange peel. Try it first with a piece of scrap from the yard of the same-ish material.
- At home anodize isn't difficult and most of the stuff can be reused. Alternate to powder coating for aluminum.
@Timmy75 Who doesn't have access to a scrap yard?
I never seen this kind of powder coating before,it looks promising therefore I will try it.Thanks for the info.
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Ive got the same model ice cream dispencer as seen in vid. Mine is old enough to be C&R but the bottom isn't the original because they're so high and have that extra selection. The top (as you can imagine seeing service) is dinged up and scratched anything on filling before this step?
Great Video.... I never knew this method existed. But I have to admit, to a reloader, the bucket'o brass was, like having a pole dancer in the background. LOL
FYI Ceracote comes in spray cans; also Brownells offers several spray and bake coatings.
I'm having issues with the shake and bake method for some lead pills and was wondering if you think this will work effectively for smaller lead objects as well.
My AR lower, or was that a component?
WD-40 dries pretty quick, do you have to do this while it's wet? And can you just flood the part with the lube then shake it off to be sure there are no "missed" spots?
Have you ever thought about making a gun barrel out of Tungsten alloy ?
Since the melting point is so high and the material pretty hard, It would be the perfect material for a high velocity caliber.
Except that its brittle, and extremely difficult to machine to final dimensions.
Adragontattoo th-cam.com/video/n5kEj5ijChc/w-d-xo.html watch this Video, Its not brittle, they use an alloy with 90%W 10% Nickel Iron, and its possible to machine.
Frank Brockman It would be a little more than twice as heavy as a normal barrel, for a small caliber that wouldnt be much of a change, might actually reduce the recoil.
The price Is higher than a normal gun barrel, 12 inch long tungsten rods cost 350$ so you would neet 2 of them, i think it would cost 700-800 bucks , but you would get that back because your barrel lives longer.
@@yaykruser that is only machinable with diamond tools (there are other types but they are just as expensive) and that is just a tungsten cube in the video (could be tungsten carbide), which is very brittle. And The only reason the cube didnt shatter was due to it being one solid mass, and not a more complet shape like a gun barrel. And while I dont fully know the properties of the alloy you mentioned im guessing that it will be similarly hard and brittle. Just because most tungsten alloys are.
@@yaykruser also while there are definite problems with making a tungsten barrel, it would be very interesting since you could technically use steel ammo in a tungsten barrel
1:11 Simple Green attacks aluminum. Maybe not a problem and etching may even be a benefit when powder coating. There is an aluminum safe version of Simple Green.
this is really pretty cool and offers me some really nice options, thanks man for sharing, very much appreciated!!!!
does dip in a WD-40 and allow to dry a little would help the coating?
'The wooden plug turns my gun chamber into a model dachshund'.
Anodising might be another option?
That looks apsolutely great 👍, thank you for your efforts & fab video, its an excellent success.
What if you heated a clean part up and pulled it out of the oven and sprinkled the coating on while it was still hot? Then baked it on ?
That sounds similar to the "hot flocking" method, which I've seen other people do, but haven't tried myself yet.
A powder coating gun is like 40 bucks at harbor freight and it works great. I’ve done an entire Dirtbike with it and it’s still going strong
“For this part and all of the other parts that it interfaces with...” Gotta love an Engineer.
Dealing with u-toob algore rhythms.