For those who want to leave negative remarks. Here’s a few things to consider first. 1. Yes, it says do not shake. But the air bubbles will settle right out. It’ll be fine. 2. This is a very beginner tutorial. If I wanted to make a video where we cut shellac 50/50 with mineral spirits, spray two coats, sand in between with 220 before tack clothing the piece and applying stain with stain cloths and allowing it to air dry in a sealed room....I couldn’t hardly call that “for beginners”. 3. I’ve stained multiple pieces this way. It works amazingly for pine and construction lumber to avoid blotching. Yes, that can be done by sealing it with the above mentioned method or with a sanding sealer or pre stain finish. But once again, this is aimed at the DIY’er who has limited experience and budget. 4. If you can’t be helpful, just move on. Your negativity is not needed nor welcomed. Thanks for your time.
Just started watching this because it came up on my search. Never heard of you but you gained a fan when you addressed all the smart asses that had to put in their two cents. I’ll subscribe now🤷♀️😁
I appreciate this video. I have a bow riser I want to stain and have never stained wood before. So this video gave me some insight to help me proceed. thanks!
That looks great. Staining is my biggest downfall, by the time I finish a project I'm so tired of it and rush through the staining and ruined many builds
Hi, am getting red cedar wood fence panels in my back yard, do you think it needs to be sanded, before I apply the oil. I mean it is required for brand new installation as there is no wear or outdoor exposure yet. Any advice appreciated.
@@keycitywoodworks yes I did I wanted to actually go with the lowest which I thought would be 220 but then when I felt the wood it hadn’t done what I needed to do... I did end up going back in with 100 grit then 150 and started the job it’s looking pretty good!
@@diybuildandlife207 If plywood is part of the component, I sand it with the same grit as I'm using for the rest of wood. And it depends on the finish. If I'm using stain and then a film sealer, grit doesn't matter too much because the sealer will be what you feel. If the wood is staying close to raw (oils, waxes etc.), I try and always go to at least 220.
@@keycitywoodworks I am building a shelf using maple plywood and gel stain. I am being told to sand using 220 grit as there is risk of peeling away the layer. So should I do the lower grits or go straight to 240?
I have questions! Do the same general rules apply for clear coating? Also, you used a smaller brush for that door. Is there a reason you don’t use a bigger brush like a 4”? And you use the stain straight from the original container? Wouldn’t you want to pour into a different container for the stain that you would use for that project? I’m getting into the shou sugi ban burning technique and clear coating has been my biggest problem by far!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Okay to begin with container is not anything but preference. Just never set the can or your tray of stain on what you're staining because you will see it like you see it in his where he set the can down in the very beginning Now your question is clear coating the same as doing stain in the reference applying yes and no you do not wipe the clear coat off you do apply with either a sprayer or a brush but you do not wipe off like you wipe the stain off once it has dried good 4 to 6 hours is a good window you want to take some 240 grit and sand your whole entire piece down I know this might sound a little weird but this is going to make your finishing 100% better than what you been doing and note when applying any type of finish whether it's in a gloss semi gloss or satin you want to apply these coats as lite an even as possible a lite even coat but do not allow it to puddle or even get heavy because it is going to want to run this is why you want to apply several of them and each time you have to let it dry and sand an wipe down before you apply the next coat this is not sanding it all the way off this is just pretty much leveling your last coat1 2 3 an that is more than enough for the next coat a good rule of thumb is if you do these coats right you get her done in three if you're really good you could do it in 2 just depends on your preference
Just curious, I made a coffee table, and in the spaces between the pieces of the wood it’s really hard to get to, what would be a good technique for that and also preventing it from dripping through?
Sorry for the late reply. I try and pre finish those areas, but an acid brush is cheap and disposable and does a good job of fitting into tight crevices
I have some leftover stain with a little linseed oil mixed into it. For the moment, I just kept the leftover in a plastic container with a lid on top (the contain I used to mix and apply with). Is this ok? Not sure what other container to keep this leftover in, as I don't want to pour it back into my original stain can without contaminating it. And I don't have any extra tin can to use.
Ok this is very important to me so I need a correct answer. I've stripped my old wood desk of the black paint on top of the dark wood stain, it was stained & sum jerk painted it black. I live in a 1 bedroom apartment & I'm disabled so I can't move the desk, it's 4' long 2'wide. I need to know at any time do I need to do any sanding ?? that's gonna be the issue. The wood is super smooth so I figured NO. I'm gonna stain it YES & I plan to clear coat.
The key with applying stain is making sure that the pours of the wood are open and ready to accept the stain. So that means all the sealer (polyurethane, shellac etc) is removed and any paint that might close off the pours.
@@keycitywoodworks The wood is a bare as a baby butt lol. What I need to know is do i need to sand before staining? or before the sealer? I'm trying not to have to sand if @ all possible.
@@jckdnielz6851 You still may have to. When it comes to staining, super smooth isn’t necessarily best. That can mean the wood fibers are all pushed down and won’t allow the stain to seep in properly. If it were me, I would sand it with 150-180 grit first
@@keycitywoodworks Ok so 1 sanding of about 180 grit should do it? Sorry for all the questions I just want it to be done right & I'm a beginner & never done this b4. And thank u for answering my questions.
I'll be honest this conflicts with basically all the advice I've seen while trying to learn how to do this. But, the proof is in the pudding and at least from this angle it looks good to me 🤷
As I’ve stated before, this is not an all inclusive, in depth tutorial. There are other and better ways that require more tools, more products and more application techniques. But this is something geared towards a beginner with a can of stain and some towels. Thanks for watching.
Not a great video. Stain should not be shaken, it just adds bubbles. Stir it. The stain should also not be rubbed in after you wipe off the excess.. it should be wiped off in the direction of the grain, in the video he shows wiping it both directions.. and then rubbing it? Will just ruin your beautiful grain. Wipe off all the excess in the direction of the grain, and then let it dry.
Damn you I know it said something about beginners I didn't realize it was a beginner doing it does anybody see where you set that can down in the very beginning never said you're staying can on your product you're stating ever
I would reply to this. But I still can’t figure out what you’re actually saying. Between the spelling, grammar and over all sentence construct mistakes mixed with it being the longest run on sentience in history, I can’t decipher the code.
For those who want to leave negative remarks. Here’s a few things to consider first.
1. Yes, it says do not shake. But the air bubbles will settle right out. It’ll be fine.
2. This is a very beginner tutorial. If I wanted to make a video where we cut shellac 50/50 with mineral spirits, spray two coats, sand in between with 220 before tack clothing the piece and applying stain with stain cloths and allowing it to air dry in a sealed room....I couldn’t hardly call that “for beginners”.
3. I’ve stained multiple pieces this way. It works amazingly for pine and construction lumber to avoid blotching. Yes, that can be done by sealing it with the above mentioned method or with a sanding sealer or pre stain finish. But once again, this is aimed at the DIY’er who has limited experience and budget.
4. If you can’t be helpful, just move on. Your negativity is not needed nor welcomed.
Thanks for your time.
Just started watching this because it came up on my search. Never heard of you but you gained a fan when you addressed all the smart asses that had to put in their two cents. I’ll subscribe now🤷♀️😁
Hahaha. Thank you.
Hey man, your video is great and helped me out a lot!! Thanks so much!!!
I appreciate this video. I have a bow riser I want to stain and have never stained wood before. So this video gave me some insight to help me proceed. thanks!
new friend here, cool staining job, thanks for sharing I've learn something🙏 its really turn out good
good video -- my concern w/staining was blanket ladders a nd drips running down 2 x 4's sides
I believe it says "do not shake" in the instruction.
That looks great. Staining is my biggest downfall, by the time I finish a project I'm so tired of it and rush through the staining and ruined many builds
I hear ya. Its definitely tedious at times, but just gotta keep the bigger picture in mind
Hi, am getting red cedar wood fence panels in my back yard, do you think it needs to be sanded, before I apply the oil. I mean it is required for brand new installation as there is no wear or outdoor exposure yet. Any advice appreciated.
May i know what color of stain you use? It’s beautiful.
This I believe was English Chestnut
@@keycitywoodworks thanks
Thank you ur video was well detailed
This is beautiful! Thank you for the tips! Question I just sanded 220 to then begin staining should I go to 150 instead then 220 grit?
Are you saying you start with 220 grit? Because if that’s the case, you should always start with a lower grit and progress up.
@@keycitywoodworks yes I did I wanted to actually go with the lowest which I thought would be 220 but then when I felt the wood it hadn’t done what I needed to do... I did end up going back in with 100 grit then 150 and started the job it’s looking pretty good!
@@keycitywoodworks what grit do you need to sand plywood with?
@@diybuildandlife207 If plywood is part of the component, I sand it with the same grit as I'm using for the rest of wood. And it depends on the finish. If I'm using stain and then a film sealer, grit doesn't matter too much because the sealer will be what you feel. If the wood is staying close to raw (oils, waxes etc.), I try and always go to at least 220.
@@keycitywoodworks I am building a shelf using maple plywood and gel stain. I am being told to sand using 220 grit as there is risk of peeling away the layer. So should I do the lower grits or go straight to 240?
Awesome. Just what i needed. Thanks
Glad it helped!
I have questions! Do the same general rules apply for clear coating? Also, you used a smaller brush for that door. Is there a reason you don’t use a bigger brush like a 4”? And you use the stain straight from the original container? Wouldn’t you want to pour into a different container for the stain that you would use for that project? I’m getting into the shou sugi ban burning technique and clear coating has been my biggest problem by far!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Okay to begin with container is not anything but preference. Just never set the can or your tray of stain on what you're staining because you will see it like you see it in his where he set the can down in the very beginning Now your question is clear coating the same as doing stain in the reference applying yes and no you do not wipe the clear coat off you do apply with either a sprayer or a brush but you do not wipe off like you wipe the stain off once it has dried good 4 to 6 hours is a good window you want to take some 240 grit and sand your whole entire piece down I know this might sound a little weird but this is going to make your finishing 100% better than what you been doing and note when applying any type of finish whether it's in a gloss semi gloss or satin you want to apply these coats as lite an even as possible a lite even coat but do not allow it to puddle or even get heavy because it is going to want to run this is why you want to apply several of them and each time you have to let it dry and sand an wipe down before you apply the next coat this is not sanding it all the way off this is just pretty much leveling your last coat1 2 3 an that is more than enough
for the next coat a good rule of thumb is if you do these coats right you get her done in three if you're really good you could do it in 2 just depends on your preference
Just curious, I made a coffee table, and in the spaces between the pieces of the wood it’s really hard to get to, what would be a good technique for that and also preventing it from dripping through?
Sorry for the late reply. I try and pre finish those areas, but an acid brush is cheap and disposable and does a good job of fitting into tight crevices
Thank you!
Rorschach Woodstain Art.
I have some leftover stain with a little linseed oil mixed into it. For the moment, I just kept the leftover in a plastic container with a lid on top (the contain I used to mix and apply with). Is this ok? Not sure what other container to keep this leftover in, as I don't want to pour it back into my original stain can without contaminating it. And I don't have any extra tin can to use.
You should be fine. Neither of these are a hydrocarbon, so you shouldn’t be concerned.
Did you use oil based or water based stain
This is oil based, but everything applies the same to water based.
Ok this is very important to me so I need a correct answer. I've stripped my old wood desk of the black paint on top of the dark wood stain, it was stained & sum jerk painted it black. I live in a 1 bedroom apartment & I'm disabled so I can't move the desk, it's 4' long 2'wide. I need to know at any time do I need to do any sanding ?? that's gonna be the issue. The wood is super smooth so I figured NO. I'm gonna stain it YES & I plan to clear coat.
The key with applying stain is making sure that the pours of the wood are open and ready to accept the stain. So that means all the sealer (polyurethane, shellac etc) is removed and any paint that might close off the pours.
@@keycitywoodworks The wood is a bare as a baby butt lol. What I need to know is do i need to sand before staining? or before the sealer? I'm trying not to have to sand if @ all possible.
@@jckdnielz6851 You still may have to. When it comes to staining, super smooth isn’t necessarily best. That can mean the wood fibers are all pushed down and won’t allow the stain to seep in properly. If it were me, I would sand it with 150-180 grit first
@@keycitywoodworks Ok so 1 sanding of about 180 grit should do it? Sorry for all the questions I just want it to be done right & I'm a beginner & never done this b4. And thank u for answering my questions.
Thanks! Really helpful!!
Hilda Aveja glad it helped out!
So you did not use wood conditioner prior to stain?
Not for this project. It called for a worn and rustic look which the blotching helps achieve.
says to stir and not shake the can. Says on the can, forms bubbles
I'll be honest this conflicts with basically all the advice I've seen while trying to learn how to do this. But, the proof is in the pudding and at least from this angle it looks good to me 🤷
As I’ve stated before, this is not an all inclusive, in depth tutorial. There are other and better ways that require more tools, more products and more application techniques. But this is something geared towards a beginner with a can of stain and some towels. Thanks for watching.
You have 500 openers and can't find one. interesting.
Mr. Pooscratch
Not a great video. Stain should not be shaken, it just adds bubbles. Stir it. The stain should also not be rubbed in after you wipe off the excess.. it should be wiped off in the direction of the grain, in the video he shows wiping it both directions.. and then rubbing it? Will just ruin your beautiful grain. Wipe off all the excess in the direction of the grain, and then let it dry.
Damn you I know it said something about beginners I didn't realize it was a beginner doing it does anybody see where you set that can down in the very beginning never said you're staying can on your product you're stating ever
You sound like you are a beginner with the English language.
I would reply to this. But I still can’t figure out what you’re actually saying. Between the spelling, grammar and over all sentence construct mistakes mixed with it being the longest run on sentience in history, I can’t decipher the code.