Building Evacuation Kit
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Official Urban Prepper video for Building Evacuation Kit
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Watch next, “Helmets & Hard Hats: Emergency Head Protection Prep”: goo.gl/MmX1X4
The items is this kit are specifically designed to assist in an evacuation of a high rise building from numerous emergency events such as fire, earthquake, acts of terrorism and more. It is intended to provide complementary redundancy to the items that are included in my Get Home Bag (GHB), which I also store under my desk at the office. Again, knowledge is the most important prep to have. However, having the right tool for the job, combined with that knowledge, is my preferred method of emergency preparedness.
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First time to comment on any videos. I've been involved in the fire service for many years, I've inspected and tested "high rise building" safety features and requirements. With that being said, I would recommend removing the door wedges. Door wedges being used on stairwell doors will defeat numerous safety functions of that stairwells. Starting with the fire rating. Emergency stairwells on the egress path will have a 2hour fire rating. Providing the doors closing properly. They are also area of refuge for handicapped persons unable to make it the the building exit. Upon a fire/smoke and pull station alarm. The building management system will start a set of ventilation fans to pressurize the stairwell with air. This in turns keeps the stairwell habitable for persons using the area as refuge, or egress. Please ditch the door wedges. And if your building does not have proper signage to escape routes talk with the building manage or your companies safety group. -Stu
I second this opinion. I designed commercial fire alarm systems for some time, and can confirm. In a fire, stairwells are designed to pressurize with fresh air to keep them free of smoke. In this kind of emergency, it's not good to wedge stairwell doors or the stairwells will lose pressure and let smoke in. Stairwell doors should not prevent entry into the stairwell in any case.
Bang on - this video lost any credibility when he started talking about wedging fire doors open. And in a building evacuation you're not going to have any time to start crayoning messages on the walls.
I was looking for this exact comment. Keep the fire doors closed at all times, it will slow down a building fire. Open the doors and the draft will feed that fire making it hotter.
I once heard a fire inspector say that he never slept any higher up than on the third floor of a hotel. Also, he would always demand a room facing the main street and never the back alley.
The reason was that the ladder of a fire truck typically can't go any higher up than the third floor. If you are stuck any higher up, no one can get to you. Also, a huge fire truck can't fit in a back alley. So even if you are not even too high up, there will be no ladder available anyways.
He also said that he always had a fire mask ready by the bed. Apparently most people die from smoke intoxication and sometimes you only have minutes from you hear the alarm until you pass out. You may get out of your room but you will probably die in the hallway.
So always ask for a room on the bottom floors, with windows facing the main street and bring a fire mask :-)
Cliff, this looks like a great start to an topic most people do not consider! Here are a few extra things you may want to consider:
#1. A flare is not a safe idea. You will create smoke (breathing hazard for yourself and others), might become a fire hazard (open flame), and could set off an explosion (in the event of a gas leak after earthquake). I would add an airhorn instead.
#2. With a window punch that small, you run the risk of cutting your forearms on plate glass should you try to use it. It will only be effective on interior windows and will not take take down laminated glass (exterior and "structural" windows). Because of this, I would remove it altogether and just use the crate hammer.
#3. Your seem to be basing the kit on medical comfort during a crisis instead of evacuating during a crisis. As a general rule of thumb, you need to press on through whatever issue you have except for massive bleeding (one which will result in you losing consciousness and eventual death) in a life-or-death scenario (e.g. fire alarm, terrorist attack). The AMK Trauma Pak and several of your other items are designed for boo-boos that will be treated by EMS when you get outside. If they don't immediately help you, that's great: you are not critical and can survive without bandaids and splints for a little while. I would drop most of your medical equipment and add a "no nonsense" medical kit. My preferred one is the H&H Pocket Law Enforcement Kit, and it is about the same size as the AMK Trauma Pak.
#4. You are focusing on using routine building features (stairs, fire exits, etc.). What would you do if you didn't have access to those? I would add some way to climb down. Below, I have included a small rudimentary climbing kit that you could use in an pinch. The lowest weight rating is the cord and that is at 13.7kN (3,100#). To accommodate this, I removed your FIREMASK as it (probably) will not work with the headlight/helmet/googles and is too redundant for it's bulkiness. I keep this same climbing kit in my car stuffed inside a regular size Maxpedition Versipack.
*_WHAT I WOULD ADD_*
Small Airhorn
Small medical kit (goo.gl/9UlGrF)
Small climbing harness (goo.gl/dCWyan)
Climbing-rated carbiners x 3 (goo.gl/332vXo)
Climbing-rated pulley x 3 (goo.gl/cwyJte)
Belay device (goo.gl/0FTyql)
Bluewater Titan Cord with Dyneema 5.5mmx50m (goo.gl/Ev9cwh)
*_WHAT I WOULD REMOVE_*
ACE Bandage
Adventure Medical Kits Professional Trauma Pak Kit with QuikClot
FIREMASK Emergency Escape Mask
Liomor Ankle Support Breathable
Neiko 02638A Automatic Center Hole Punch (5-Inch)
SAM Splint
Orion Red Handheld Marine Flare
Suggest that you change out your gloves for all leather gloves. Any synthetic materials will melt to your skin in high heat/fire. You should also carry a long term storage/survival water pouch in case you get caught in a building collapse. I caution you to not use the signaling flare. In a building fire, earthquake or collapse, you may have an undetected gas leak. The flare may cause a fire or explosion. Use your cyalume light stick with a length of 5-50 cord for a signal.
I second that vote for an all-leather or at least leather and cloth glove (NO plastic - plastic melts, melting plastic burns flesh). My favorites have always been Wells-Lamont. Very sturdy and long-wearing.
Great Kit!
As a volunteer firefighter, I would replace or add to your kit the gloves with leather or Nomex Gloves in case of fire szenario.
I appreciate that you did not just show yourself talking. You actually displayed the contents. Nice job.
Thanks for an interesting video on a topic that few people write about. I used to work on the 21st floor of a 30-storey office building, and although there were periodic fire drills, it was easy to see that things could easily get out of hand in a real emergency. People who at the bottom of the stairwell run a risk of being crushed if panic sets in and the people above them stampede. These days I'm a consultant who visits clients at their offices, and I worry about emergencies in a building that I'm not familiar with. I can only carry what fits in my pockets and briefcase, so am quite limited with respect to gear. However, I'm going to add an angle bracket plus whistle, chemstick, Gorilla tape (have these in my car kit), and yes, a lightweight plastic door stop -- can see lots of situations where that would be useful, and you don't have to leave it behind, you can remove it when you're through the door. I don't have room for a prybar but I do have a solid Bench paramedic knife that I hope would work for limited prying. Among other items, I also carry a surgical mask (folds flat) and a powerful rechargable flashlight that works as a powerbank to recharge your phone. Last point -- seems almost every blogger recommends a Maxpedition bag for their EDC or BOB. If there ever is an emergency, I'm keeping my eyes open for someone who has a Maxpedition bag, because I never see these bags otherwise!
Keep up the good work!
Chicago IL made all employees working downtown to have an evacuation backpack. they gave us the backpack with a few items and a list of everything we needed in the bag. That was in 2005 and I still use that bag, even though I am now retired.
I'd say emergency doors should not be stopped from closing, as their job is to stop fire from spreading into the staircase/evacuation routes.
Stairways are pressurized to keep smoke out of the stairway. Keeping any stairway door propped open will allow smoke to get in and put everyone in danger. Do not prop any stairway door open. Get rid of those door stops.
I like your style of bag review. Showing the stuff in the bag and then showing the items one by one. I also like that pry tool. You know if your worried about someone running down the stairs and getting injured then perhaps look into a rescue carry all. They make blankets and ones to keep the victim in a seated position. Very light, packable and durable. Allows you and and others to evacuate the injured quickly rather than rendering aid and assisting them down on their own locomotion
you should add a reflector vest for the worst case scenario where you get stuck under debris and for the fire department can see you easier
@Hasiger Hase You could make that argument about literally any item in any of these kits. Reflector vests are cheap and lightweight, so there's really no reason not to toss one in.
Great video. I have been a firefighter/disaster prep instructor for over 35 years and everyone should be this prepared. Its not a question of if but when a disaster strikes. For the dust mask, don't use the ones that have an exhalation valve. Things like covid could get in. The flare is too dangerous especially if there is a gas leak. Stick with the light sticks. Your ace bandage replaces the ankle splint and can be used with your sam splint. I didn't see a water bottle of some type. Good for drinking out of or flushing out the eyes.You don't need a special eye wash kit but up to you. Don't repel unless you are trained, have the right gear and have a good anchor point. Very dangerous. Add something to eat as you just never know when you might eat again. You probably won't need the weather radio. Just look up in the sky. I keep some zip ties and para-cord with me as they have multiple uses. Someone mentioned carrying small fire extinguisher. Don't bother. Buildings have those and if you could fit it in your bag, it would be too small to do any good. Finally, prepare and train for the worst and hope for the best. Remember to look up, down and all around. It may save your life.
As a firefighter/instructor, don't you think he should remove those door stops? Keeping fire doors open defeats the whole purpose of the fire escape stairwell.
Great tips. My first apartment was on the 36th floor.
There was a small fire and the elevator was quickly out of order due to Overloading. I was single but how would you deal with the screaming sheep.
While communicating with family? I remember it was deafening!
I also had to punch a panicky one that tried to pull off my basic filter mask .
Great kit there !
I like that mini weather radio !
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You my friend, represent the TRUE ESSENCE of prepping. Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff. Best part about this video is how it shows you are constantly assessing and planning for your environment and situation changes. $10,000 worth of guns at home won't help if you die from smoke inhalation at work or in the subway.
Some ideas I had after watching this:
A small amount of smoke will cause watering eyes and involuntary shutting that make people unable to see or navigate especially in an office building which is filled with plastics and other toxic fire-load. Since you will be the only one to see and breath you can guide them out by having them grab a length of 550 cord with you at the end holding a loop. This way they aren't grabbing on you and they can follow you out through smoke without becoming lost from disorientation. Just follow the tugging rope.
I couldn't tell by the video but do any of the stairway doors have locks on them or some other issue which may cause them to not open from inside the stairwell? I'm not sure how well a small tool will pry with modern construction, brick and steel if that is how your building is made. They sell wire tools which slide under doors to activate the panic bar from the other side. Not sure if this is a problem for your building though.
I might have missed it but do you have liquid for flushing out eyes or burn dressings? Most people will grab a door knob instead of feeling the door for heat before entering. A lot of synthetics and wicking clothing will cause more severe burns to a person when they melt then the fire itself. This is the place where cotton (or fire resistant) clothing has its place. A cheap set of military cotton mechanics coveralls stashed under your desk will allow you to go through more fire than if you are wearing a business suit or nylon jacket. It will also protect you better if you have to move across glass and other debris.
When I was a firefighter I carried a length of rappelling line in my right pocket for building escape. One end had a loop that your foot would go into or you could use a carabiner inside a figure 8 loop to attach to your belt, around your waist, etc. The running end would go around an object and then back onto itself. The friction of rope on rope was enough to allow you to slowly descend with a good bit of control. You definitely will need gloves for this.
Great video once again!
This is the best kit you've made and I've been watching you for years. Thank you so much!
Wow! Thank you so much. I really appreciate that.
For rappeling:
I have tested the Petzl evac system myself, and it works quite great!
What you can DIY is going for a petzl grigri (which is the braking device on the evac system), two climbing carabiners and your ropes, so you can clip the rope to a fixed structure and the grigri to your harness/riggers belt, and you‘re good to go.
For considering rope, rope and rope equipment takes up a lot of space and has weight to it. You need a suitable anchor place, and preferably multiple anchor points and also have to have somewhere to land when you run out of rope. Before buying anything, make sure you can ancor to. If you cannot ancor, no use in having rope. If you get a rope system, make sure all components are compatible with each other. Make sure the descent control device is made to handle the size rope you are using. I'd personally recommend 50' of 8mm rope and some 1" tubular webbing. for an escape system, I'd refer you to Dale Pekel again. He has a series of videos on FF escape system use. Only difference is that he uses his system in a residential setting.
another thing: you need an harness too. it's quiete heavy too. maybe a flag to warn firemen from a blocked room (waving from a window).
Amazing video as always. Thanks for sharing.
One item I might change/add. We recently had a fire door fail on us in a drill, so perhaps I would recomend a larger pry bar, its not something you are going to carry far, so a bigger slightly heavier one isnt that restrictive. but when you ahve a few hundred coworkers pushing down the stairs on a non opening door, you will wish for it.
Thanks again!
I have worked as Floor Emergency Warden & Chief Emergency Warden in large buildings. Things happen when you least expect it. I learnt to always carry what you need on your person - I carry the usual pens, keys, etc but I carry a AAA Penlight Torch that will assist in me getting to strategically placed gear on each floor. Gloves, Safety Vest, Hard Hat, 6 Volt Torch, Whistle & IFAK all ready to go when needed. I wear a suit so I carry what I need on my person so always have the small items with me.
The doors lock for a reason, and to use the door stops, will endanger everyone.
For instance, if there's a fire, and you don't know which floor, but say, your wife is on a lower floor, you as a human are inclined to look for her. If the fire is on her floor, you can't open the door, compromising the air of the other evacuees in the stairway.
Lose the door stops, so you're disinclined to use them. I know it sounds horrible, but tough.
Excellent point regarding smoke during a fire. What about during non-smoke related emergencies? For example, during an active shooter situation you may be able to lock yourself into a room and use the door stops to help block the interior opening door.
I base that on the lowest common denominator. The "random" shooter is an opportunist; which is to say, you can hide in a closet and be fine. First look at the doors you intend to stopper; is it solid enough to keep him from arbitrarily crashing through? No? Don't waste your time. Doors tend to open in the direction they lock, so if you're on the side it locks on, why stopper? Business have filing cabinets. in the end, the door stops are taking up space, and providing you with opportunity to fuck yourself and those around you.
I'm on the fence about the glass breaker. Fires do need air to grow, but so do you. Fires could explode in a sudden gust of air, which is detrimental to your health; but sometimes a broken glass is exactly what you need. Be sure to know when and where to use it.
correct about the fire. if you prop a door open you could fill a stair well with smoke making it impossible for others or you to excape. there are possibly HVAC settings that will defult in the stair wells that are triggered when the fire alarms are tripped propping fire doors open is not a good idea during a fire
Smoke in a fire scenario is a valid concern! Use what we in the the fire service use. Try stips of old rubber inner tubes with holes cut in them to go around the door knobs. (see attached article). It will allow the door to close but not lock behind you, and take up A LOT less space in your bag!
www.fireengineering.com/articles/2011/06/destefano-doors.html
You could instead keep some heavy s-hooks in your kit. They fit over or inside hinges to keep doors open or closed.
What do you think of adding earplugs to your kit ? Really small and seems valuable to me since you'll constantly get extremely loud noises that would increase the stress of the situation and basically would impair your hearing, temporarily (so it would be harder for you to communicate orally on a radio/phone or whatever eventually) and permanently
You should include a small fire extinguisher in your bag, you can get small ones that fits in your bag. This is a great idea! Great bag.
A Box of Salt or Baking soda would work if the fire is small the building he is in should have fire extinguishers on every floor and multiple locations.
Great video and kit as always. My one bit of advice would be to go with a different ankle brace or don't bother. The one you have is compact and "breathable" Suited best for an athlete who is mostly recovered from an injury and just wants a little something extra to wear in his athletic shoe . In an evacuation scenario you would have an acute injury that would need much more rigid support. You would want that joint as immobile as possible. I would look into something like an Aircast Ankle support.
Thx. Another great video. I just looked into fireproof blanket or barrier. Because it could also be used to protect area cooking while camping.
Great kit. And I'm not sure if someone else has touched on it, but since I am a firefighter I will just say, that blocking open those doors in the stairway might not be a good idea. They are there because if the fire can get into the stairway the stairway acts like a big chimney. Door wedges/stops are good to have for other reasons, but keep spread of fire in your mind when blocking doors open. But overall,you make great kits. I have your Urban Get Home list sitting next to me and I am working on making a shopping list to to make a new bag.
"I don't think he's got room for climbing rope in that bag" *pulls out fire mask* "yup, definitely no rope". So glad you are asking for repelling suggestions. For starters, go to a climbing gym with a friend and learn how to use a reppelling device like the Black Diamond ATC (several companies make similar products, make sure the one you get is sized for your rope. That rope looks small, so be sure to measure it). If you don't want to wear a riggers belt I would suggest getting a harness with buckles that you don't have to double back the straps like what rental places use. Not only will it be quicker to put on, but you won't have the possibility of forgetting to double the straps back when you're under stress. After you buy a harness and rappelling device, get a pair of twist lock caribiners and you have a much cheaper version of that fireman rig.
ear protection?
Thanks! I can't believe I forgot to include them in this kit.
My office had a fire drill, the worst part was walking past the alarms in the hallway. (The real worst part was that I carry earplugs and didn't think to use them.)
@Hasiger Hase Well, I would never stop in the flow of people, but if I took a moment to think I could have put them in before joining the flow. Same with anything in this kit, grab the bag, put on what you can before you start out, keep the rest for when/if you need it later.
Whatever rope repel system you decide to use, practice so it's natural. Perhaps some space blankets at the bottom of the kit for after. For people in shock etc. Excellent idea though and i look forward to a v2 as your thoughts on this evolve.
Definitely. I would like to do a dedicated video on whatever repel system I go with. It would be a lot of fun to film with the GoPro's. Good recommendation regarding the space blankets for people in shock.
For rappeling u need a static rope 9.5 or 10mm , 2 steel biners (1 for the end of the rope and 1 for the descender , 1 descender... grigri plus by petzl would be the best option, 1 harness or 1 sling loop to improvise the harness, 1 pair of leather gloves.
Thank you for all the videos and the informations that are u give and teach.
First and foremost, thank you for another interesting and thought provoking video.
I have to agree with the comment from below from Clint on the door stops. That being said you could always use your tape to cover the locking bolt with tape so others have access. That way the door can remain closed to contain fire or limit air flow to the fire.
I am some what surprised that you did not include a much more powerful flashlight in the bag. The headlamp is fine but in a super smokey situation I would want as many lumens as possible.
I would ditch the door stops for a bottle of water, its uses are many.
Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and commenting! I'm loving all of the recommendations in the comment section. It makes me want to get started on V2 immediately! Clint made an excellent point regarding the spread of smoke. I'm still trying to determine whether they should be completely omitted and just not used for fire related evacuation. Would they be beneficial in a non-fire related evacuation? Active shooter, to help block a door entry? I have a fairly powerful flashlight in my EDC bag. I'm really trying not to keep buying the same item for multiple kits. What flashlight do you think would be best served for this type of kit?
Seems fun. Like the idea of having a comprehensive set of personal protection equipment; the all round air mask is a particularly good idea.
For footwear, i'd recommend some safety dress shoes, with toecap and sole protection. Reason, in a confusing evacuation from an office environment, there are bound to be debris on the floor, plus the seldom mention hazard of ladies wearing stiletto heals. An accidental stab from those ladies' pointed-heals can be crippling. Hence toe and foot protection are advisable. And there are those safety shoes that look like regular dress shoes. So no issues about blending in.
I like the idea of door stops but those doors slam shut for a reason. they are fire doors. If there is a fire having a door stuck open is a terrible idea.
Idk whether someone already mentioned but the doorsteps are a nice feature but maybe the most dangerous one. You're right, the doors will lock and only be accesable from outside the emergency exit staircase. This is because you should go to a lower level in case of a fire or similar. Emergency staircases are built with some kind of air conditioning which will build a slight over pressure in case of emergencies so no smoke can get into the staircase. By holding a door open with the doorsteps you redirect the air, used for the over pressure, into the floors. This might help the fire to spread faster and maybe even kill you or make your situation much worse.
Nice kit. Suggestions: (1) Replace your medkit with a Bleeding Control Kit from Doom and Bloom, (2) Replace your NOAA radio with a handheld HAM radio with FM + NOAA reception, and (3) Get a VS-17 panel signal marker that you can hang out a window. Carry spare batteries for your light. Consider a CAT tourniquet instead of the SWAT.
Excellent tips, Scott! I'll look into all of the items. I went with the Midland just for simplicity of use and the price point, so others could replicate it. I carry a CAT in my EDC bag and sometimes on my person. Spare batteries are also in my EDC bag. I love, love, love the idea of the VS-17 panel. Just added one to my wish list.
great video as always, i would be concerned with using door stops as most doors in buildings are to be closed during a fire to stop the spread of fire, through feeding it with oxygen.
Very true. In V2 I will restate the purpose of this item. I was thinking they could also be used for non-fire emergencies. For example, during an active shooter situation if you needed to barricade yourself into a room you could use them to help block an interior opening door.
Great video. The "Wedge-It" is a nice sized multiple door application wedge. Also Kevlar or bankline is good to use to tie up the door mechanism.
I never would have thought of the door steps! Good societal thinking!
One of the things that I keep in my EDC bag is a few metal S hooks. You find them near the chain in a hardware store. All you do is hook them over the hinge and it keeps the door from closing all the way. I like them better than door stops because they take up less room and the are easier to take on and off the door.
Cliff, this looks like a great start to an topic most people do not consider! I think the answer to your climbing solution can be solved with a question: "how comfortable am I at technical rescue?" You could learn it, but you may not remember it during a crisis if it isn't something that you practice monthly. Here are two suggestions:
*_SOLUTION #1: Premade, cheaper than the ones you suggested_*
Black Diamond Couloir Climbing Harness
Petzl EXO EASHook (same concept, but cheaper)
*_SOLUTIONS #2: Self-made, cheap, very compact, not ideal but doable in an emergency_*
Black Diamond Couloir Climbing Harness
Black Diamond Positron Screwgate Locking Carabiner x 3
SMC CR Crevasse Rescue Pulley x 3
Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device
Bluewater Titan Cord with Dyneema 5.5mm x 50m
Each of those in Solution #2 are weight-rated. The Titan Cord has the lowest rating at 13.7kN (3,100#). While it is not meant to be the main rope that trad/rock climbers use because of the potential of falling, it is suitable for the purpose of rappelling which you would be doing in an emergency situation. I included it here because it is fairly compact and lightweight compared to traditional rope with a diameter greater than 9.0mm.
A nice addon for the back up sneakers or boots are lock laces.(Amazon $7) once they are on they fit snug and allow you swap alot quicker then tying. I currently use them on my Red Wing work boots and love them.
I used to wear a hardhat long ago and can state that a good suspension, properly adjusted, will keep the hat fairly secure. I could lean over with my head pointed down and my hh would not fall off even though it was one of the heavy plastic types (resistant to electrical current). The almost rimless types (they do have a brim) are less likely to be catapulted off your head by falling debris.
I'll need to ask some of the local construction workers on what model they would recommend. Mine doesn't stay on my head well enough.
I noticed the Cyalume lightstick in the video. I've thought for years that those were wonderful. Recently, I discovered that they come in Premium (normal brightness, 8-12 hours), Industrial (Ultra Bright for 6-8 hours) and Military (Ultra Bright for 30 minutes). These can all be found on Amazon.
Also, I noticed that you can get holders for them to focus the light outward so that you won't be blinded by the light facing you.
I always though it was pronounced Sy-a-loom.
The exo hook is awesome. I’ve been a firefighter for 2 years now. I can’t tell you the amount of security you have just know that if shit hits the fan I have a escape route no matter what floor I’m on. I’ve only had to use it once but idk if I would be here today if I didn’t have it
As a rescue worker and firefighter the petzl is such a small form factor and just a nice thing to have, that is if you're willing to dish out the cash.
Great ideas. The only thing I could think to add would be water to wet down a bandana and wrap your head or cover nose and mouth if you can't afford or don't own a fire mask. Thank you for the video. Glad I don't work or live in a high rise building!
Love some of these ideas. I recommend you study fire behavior. Fire behavior can tell you a lot about changing conditions and what to avoid. Knowing about fire behavior may help you evacuate. Also, you may not want to prevent doors from closing during a fire because more airflow = more oxygen for the fire. Great tool though, you wouldn’t want to be locked in a staircase during an active shooter scenario if the doors are going to lock behind you.
For the cost of the expensive rappelling rig, you can probably get two or three rappelling classes and the gear you need to accomplish your goal. Plus it's probably a lot of fun.
get a figure 8 descender instead of a auto breaking. Its cheaper but if you loose your grip your going for a ride. And for the Harness just get 20 feet of tubular webbing from a climbing company and learn to make a harness out of it. Works great and thats what I use in my fire dept.
Haven't read all the comments so if I repeat I'm sorry. Great kit man!! The only thing I didn't see was some ear plugs. I've been through and evacuation and the fire alarms were blaring. I keep a simple squeezable pair in my safety glasses case.
I use a Skedco Kosmo MOUT lifeline as my emergency rappelling kit, it has a 30ft rope with a screw-lock carabiner on one end, If you become trapped inside a building
up to 4 stories high, the Lifeline can be used to rappel out through the window. Because of the small diameter of the rope, you should not rappel on it unless there is no other way to escape. The break strength of the cord is 1,150 lb.
I would recommend having one of those lever-style keys for manually opening elevators from the outside just in case you need to free someone from the elevator before you escape.
I didn't read all the comments but would add a can of Sure Fire. You won't put out a large fire but may be able to suppress it enough to make your route passable. My thoughts on the repelling choices I think it will all depend on high you are. If your 200 feet up it may not be feasible to be caring that much rope. Overall excellent start and well thought out as usual.
Firstly, as always great video and great concept.
It would be quite easy to build a rope kit 'kit' with a Riggers Belt a figure 8 and some carabiners. Or even less if you learn emergency rappelling.
The two problems are, as someone else mentioned, suitable anchor point, probably by the time you've found one you'd probably have walked down the stairs.
The other is the rope, even with 8mm rope the amount needed to do 1 or 2 stories is going to take up a lot of bulk.
I also go with TheJimtanker, wedging fire doors might not be the best overall solution even if a good temporary one.
The other is the ankle support, the casualty are probably going to turn there ankle going down the stair well, that's probably going to be packed, are you going to stop and help that person blocking the stair well to put it on? Best work with other people and evacuate the casualty with some human crutches. However, well done for thinking of other people.
a good weather radio
I recommend is a Midland HH 54 public alert, all Hazzard radio.
it runs on 3 AA batteries and has a screen on it.
I love mine.
I love your videos. But I strongly disagree with using door stops. In nearly every case where an automatic door closer has been installed, it is there to protect people by keeping smoke and fire out of the staircase/path of egress. In many cases, it also helps to maintain proper air pressure in the staircase/path of egress. I’m an architect and I’ve spent a good deal of time designing such paths in coordination with HVAC engineers and code consultants. That said thank you for all the outstanding content.
Thanks for the support of my videos! Here's a clarification on the door stops: th-cam.com/video/EiBY92RlMs0/w-d-xo.html
Brilliant build. And the Versipack is a survival hall of fame pack.
Hey TheUrbanPrepper. I wanted to ask you a question. I don't know if this has already been answered. But why and how did you start prepping. Did you experience a natural disaster or were you involved in an urban crisis or something that sparked your prepping. Did you see an event happen on TV and when did your prepping start. Lastly what were the first items you purchased or what were your first kits that you made when you first started prepping. Thanks and love the videos. Just started watching again because I have recently started upping my prep level because of the riots and demonstrations.
I just have a garbage bag with spam, water, condoms, sardines, caffeine pills, bananas, and a gun.
Am I prepped?
I would have never thought of adding an ankle brace. Great idea!
Thanks! Yeah, I'm going to be including 1-2 in all of my kits moving forward.
+TheUrbanPrepper , you should (or something equivalent, maybe even sports knee braces), as these are the most valuable things you have when you try to get away from danger. And for some reason 'First Aid' kits don't include 'treatments' for these types of injuries, neither do trauma kits ... while they might well be the most common and most debilitating injuries you can sustain in an emergency situation (be it evacuation, get-home or bug-out). I added some ace-bandage to my kit after realizing this while commenting on a ReWildUni 'adventure kit' video ... sort of like a smack to the forehead moment for me personally :S
Since you work in a earthquake zone I would not count on stairwells as my only escape route. Stairwells are easily rendered useless by debris and mass casualties. They are a major choke point during a evacuation. I'd consider a simple repelling harness and rope system. Get some training if you need it and you may find you enjoy repelling (it's fun). Ditch the ankle wrap, you stopping in a stairwell to render first aide will block that escape route. Either carry that person or move on and report them to the first responders. Also never use door jams in a fire. Close all doors behind you if possible. This stops smoke from spreading and can reduce air flow to the fire, leave those decisions to the firefighters, they have the training.
as an old fire fighter i have used the petzel system and like it a lot. however 1 inch tubular webbing is much more useful and you can still do emergency repels with it. in my fire gear i care a 10 ft. loop and a 40 ft section.
oh and use regular all leather gloves, in my opinion.
I work construction and yes the hard hat protects better but they do not stay on as well. I would personally stay with the skate helmet it does have less protection from falling objects but you don't have to worry about it falling off
Shawn Warner That's good to know. I haven't found a chin strap that works for my construction hard hat. The skate helmet always stays on.
go with a rappelling harness, you can get one from Black Diamond at a reasonable price, use that with your rope and a few body weight carabiners
I was in the military and used a riggers belt and rope a handful of times. If you are trained it's a good option. the only downside to any of the things you mentioned and my option it's you can't save other people
You have a helmet but what about knee pads for descending? The knee is a particularly susceptible point of injury aside from the ankle. I don't think your last ditch rappelling is a good idea, the biggest weak point in that scenario is the user, stress of evacuating, something could be too easily overlooked and it could fail. As long as there's multiple exits in case one is blocked, the staff in the building are given lots of opportunity to practice in fire drills, the exits would be the best I think. That way all people in the building are going the same way you are, so if you are injured you will be found, either by people exiting or emergency crew entering. You don't want to be going off to some other part of a now empty building to attempt to setup something that most likely will fail. Obviously time is a factor too in such things but you don't want to rush so I think putting on your mask, helmet and knee pads would give you some time to focus on the objective of getting out safely. Personally I'd want to be the last one leaving in such a situation, I wouldn't want to be at the front or middle of an evacuation surrounded by panicked individuals.
Hi Prepper
As a certified Contruction site hight Rescuer i would NEVER!! recommend you to build your own DYI Hight rescue kit...
The reasons being 1. The prebuild one like the one from Petzl Witch is an awsome kit btw is certified and tested to hold even with Shock waves from you falling or jumping out the window and 2. the helmets you are throwing the brick on is only worth throwing out becouse the integrity of the helmets are compromised and you can not be sure it will last another hard hit, you can call it a one time use products...
Great video and keep em comming
all the best / Peter
The Items in the descent kit are all available in REI or any good climbing store. The only item probably not in a climbing store is the large hook on the end of the rope for attachment to the anchor point but a large carabiner could be used. Training with a mechanical descender is necessary and never ever forget to tie a large knot in the end of the rope to prevent fatally coming off the rope.
It is indeed interesting that there is no big hooks whatsoever in the climbing market, and definitely no grappling hooks that you see in movies. None, whatsoever. I'd think there's many reasons. First, it's really difficult to build a strong hook; hooks are an inherently weak shape. Second, a hook tends to dig into whatever it's hooked into and break it; small hooks like BD Talon/Cliffhanger/Grappling Hook are good in chipping stone ledges and are NOT for anchoring, only for technical leading. Third, they can slip off if you're not careful. Those reasons are probably why Petzl has required training for using their EXO AP hook kit. Even training with them is dangerous.
u should put in your leatherman raptor, as it has a glass punch and cord/belt cutter and medical shears, which is quite useful
Two big thing that come to mind for me.
One I think the fire mask should be one of the fastest and easiest thinking to get to due to smoke and how fast to would need to get out.
Two in an emergency I don't think you would have the time to provide aid during the evacuation and due to needing to leave quickly. But emergency aid that you can use right after getting out could be helpful.
ear plugs and a silver sharpie maybe ton contrast better if you have to write on a dark surface. i like the door stops idea, it can keep doors open as you mentioned or closed in case you needed to shelter in place due to work place violence or other scenarios
I've got a Petzl EXO and a CMC Flash Hook run via a Misty Mountain light weight harness. It's good for 4th floor egress with the included rope. If making your own kit, the rope will be the big expense. Ideally your rope should be a fire retardant static line. 7-7.5mm. You're not climbing, you're bailing out.
Cheaper version: rigger belt, (one that's rated for climbing - most are not) a carabiner to make a brake and some rope. Or, make a Swiss seat harness. A figure 8 or rescue 8 brake is maybe $50 but you have to keep a hand on the rope to arrest your fall and ideally run a prussi - in case you make a mistake and let go. PEtzl EXO is no brainer. Just tie off, make a hole and out you go. It has panic/over extend safety and if you let go, you stop. Good rope isn't cheap. EXO is expensive, but it's a nice kit.
Re your kit: looks solid enough. I like the relatively compact format. Only things i'd lose are the glass breaker and the crate hammer. Exchange for a bigger pry tool. Something you could also even use as a "tool in the wall" anchor point (and would also break glass all day long).
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the videos.
Depending on the floor, a flying squirrel suit may work better than repelling rope, but that's probably expensive too, lol, also probably need to pair it with a chute...
1. Unless you want to commit very seriously to continuous training and invest heavily in equipment, I would avoid going the escape system route if you are starting above the 8th floor. You have better chances to escape by using the evacuation stairs than attempting anything else.
2. Unfortunately, I did not found any small useful breaching tools so far. You really need leverage to get any metal frame and/or door open, especially under stress. Your kit should include a card hook to unlock most spring loaded, some shims for padlocks and a center punch to break glass and to unset pin hinges.
3. Let me know if you have any communication problems with Firemask. These folks are located close to me and we are sharing the same language.
Keep up your good work.
Good kit as far as rappelling, a good rock climbing harness and a belay device like petzel would be fine. REI has a grigri that looks to be what was shown. The only thing I would worry about is a good anchor.
Have you thought about having some 'S' hooks from the hardware store. The 'S' hooks are great for putting in the door jam over the inside of the hinge. You could lace them in your pocket for quick use.
Good idea! I'll look into it.
Regarding the doorstops, contrary to what people say it is important to have ways to secure a door. Door stops can hold doors open as well as keep them closed. While it is important to not jam fire doors open, not every door you will encounter will be a fire door. Your being able to prop a door open (or block it closed) may save yourself and others. Also, include earplugs. Alarms will likely be going off and it will be loud. Safety glasses would also be good to protect you from the dust (you had eye wash but no safety glasses). If you are going to use your prying tool for breaching, you better practice. Doors are much harder to force than you would think. How about including a sturdy pair of boots or shoes that you can put on if there is time? You will encounter a lot of debris.
Cliff another great video. Couple of points. Gloves, nylon gloves offer great protection from abrasion, but limited thermal protection i.e. fire. You don't want something that will melt at a low temperature. Pry bars my thoughts are longer is better.For your kit a good Estwing or Stanley bar From a home improvement store With a striking tool a 20 oz straight claw after a tune up with a grinder on the claw, to help in limited chopping while not being as" concerning" as a Hatchet like a Estwing campers axe ( preferred) will give you a very good small prying/ anchor kit. Watch a video on TH-cam for using the irons for fire fighting As for a bail out kit and for price I would look at A couple of locking carabineers and Mule tape which is used for pulling electrical wires it has a 1200 lbs rating. You can use it to make a Swiss seat, not the most comfortable but for one time use it get you by. With the home made system it will be more versatile then a engineered bailout system. You can use it for descent ascent and lateral movement. It can be used as a mechanical advantage system i.e rope and pulleys. A couple of 1 1/2" hardware rings can be used as anchor points using your tape the first tie off a ring then running your descent line through them you can tie off one end of the tape to your Swiss seat take the running end up through the ring back to you wrapped around a locking carabeneer to control your descent. You can leave the little piece of tape and ring for anchoring as sacrificial. Please practice first. If you want contact me through TH-cam.
One thing I would say is addie a second or third triangular bandage. I am currently an EMT and any injury where we need to use a triangular bandage we use multiple. One or two to support the injured limb one or two to secure the limb. Also a roll of coban.
Good idea. I buy them in bulk and probably should get in the habit of always included around 3 in each kit. I was trying to save on space with this kit, but I agree. It's a great item to have multiple of.
I was sort of expecting you to rappel down from the 36th floor... I routinely carry a "suicidal rappel kit" in my backpack. Suicidal means 15 meters of 6 mm accessory cord, which should be rather OK double-stranded, but could go single stranded if there's imperial guards running after you with blasters and the cord is your last hope. That thin cord basically explodes if it contacts anything non-dull under heavy load. For a non-suicidal kit, I'd recommend 8 mm static rope, but it's of course bigger and heavier. With regards to a rap device, figure-8 doesn't work for very thin rope. ATCs are really small and work better on 8 mm rope. You can go even simpler by using a Munter hitch on a carabiner and it works even with the 6 mm cord, but puts more stress on the rope. That's what I carry (rope + a biner), as the ATC doesn't really work with 6 mm cord. Then you'd need a harness. Alpine/wall harnesses are rather lightweight, but take some space and also time to put on. Probably the most lightweight and versatile is to use a webbing loop as a "swiss seat" or "diaper harness". I use normally a 5.11 "Trainer Belt" that has a strong steel buckle (not certified for climbing!), but rapping with just a belt and no leg loops is rather painful. The best solution would be to use something like Arcteryx Rigger's Harness that has a climbing-rated belt and separate leg loops that pack really small. It's also rather quick to use if you wear the belt as your daily belt. Additionally, I'd always recommend carrying a 1+ meter long 4 to 6 mm cord loop that you can use in many ways and purposes, especially as a prussik loop. If you rappel and get stuck, such as if your clothes or hair (outch!) gets into the device, you WILL BE STUCK UNTIL YOU PERISH IN GREAT AGONY without a prussik loop (I prefer the quicker Klemheist hitch to the traditional prussik). You can also use the loop as a backup/break device for rappelling, and it has really many uses, such as making a foot loop for climbing over a fence. I've used mine for carrying shopping bags or a map pocket, or attaching my camera. Also the 15 m rope has proved useful for many purposes, such as rescuing a drone from a tree. The Petzl escape system has a nice big hook that is really useful if there's no sturdy object to which tie your rope. For a rappel device, it has what appears to be a modified Grigri 2 (the regular one doesn't work with that thin rope and requires a break hand), which is probably great, as it has a break handle, so you can control your descent, but it's also a bit heavy. This is a big topic, but I hope this summary gives some points.
One thing.. Expecting to carry BOTH your Get Home Bag, and your Building Evacuation Kit, will put much more fatigue and weight on you. I'd advise you to find a way to stash the Get Home Bag somewhere at a lower point, such as in a vehicle, or ground floor locker if one is available within the area. You can get to it after you're safe downstairs. Don't carry gear you don't have to. That's a lot of stairs, and it'd be much more manageable without extra gear.
Enjoy your videos. Very informative. On a video you ruled out a lock pick set. I would recommend a tool called a shove knife. You could include it in you building escape kit to open locked doors. At least least most found in offices.
Thanks for the tip, Brian! I just ordered one based on your recommendation.
It is easy to use. Small and discreet and takes minimum training to use. It works on doors that swing in or out. It won't do any good if there is a deadbolt lock. In a building evac you may encounter a locked stairwell door. Should work to open these. Hope this helps.
The pry bar you want to use is only considered a concealed weapon if you are walking down the street with it, not if it is stored at you workplace. It is a tool being stored, just like scissors in your desk drawer.
Good point. My main concern was with colleague perception. So far they have no idea that I Prep. I'm trying to stay under the radar. The legal issue is always something I'm concerned about in the city when it comes to these type of tools.
Another great video. I was downtown on 1st in Seattle during the Nisqually quake as you probably remember in an older building that has been replace with the WAMU tower and was on the 4th floor. Then on 5th ave for the WTO riots and another time where VP Gore was coming and we had to establish escape for him if necessary. You hit on a lot of great items and things that I either had, or wish I had. Even the helmet and running shoes at the end was awesome you touched on those as well. After being in all of those situations and seeing how quickly things happened or what the buildings could take, I would say the descending line was something that I would have passed up due to the rapidness of the situations. I could see having the ability to descend a story or two at most in the stairwell, so maybe multiple lengths, 2 perhaps of strap or rope that would be tied off, utilized, then just left behind. So maybe 2 lengths of 15 feet of something. I did well obviously, but it was more how I reacted and since I did have the experience I have thought through what I would do if it happened again. The biggest takeaway was the shoes and the ability to move fast in both the earthquake and the riots. Next was not being surprised all the time with what may be coming next. In the earthquake, running out in the street was very dangerous as the windows in many buildings were coming down, even the Columbia tower, so awareness is big. Then, not knowing what may happen next I had to keep making decisions to escape. In the earthquake, just getting out of the building was pretty straight forward, but not knowing what was going to happen next took a lot more thought. The surrounding area was also old buildings and my direct route out was through more, and to the water is the viaduct. Then all transportation was shut down. Similar things happened daily during the riots as well, so I got pretty good at coming up with multiple escape maneuvers. Glad you did this video. Bruce
Thank you for taking the time to write out this comment, Bruce! So much great information is included. Yes, I remember all of those events well. I'm looking forward to refining this kit through ideas obtained in the comment section, such as yours. Hopefully it will help others with their own building evacuation planning.
I think the DIY option is the way to go. You can probably do something in the $200-300 price range.
since its a building evac bag I would recommend boots for footwear. doesn't have to be anything crazy, but I recommend combat boots. since you have so many stairs to go down in a speedy manner, boots would be great because it would reduce the chance of roling your ankle.
Seems like a solid system to me.
Thanks for the video
ok, so I can offer some advice ok on one of the gears your considering. A little about where my advice is coming from. For about 15yrs I've been serving in a tactical occupation, both Military & L.E, a lot of it has incorporated, rappelling, building climbing, rope rescue, and for fun some mountain climbing. By no means am I an expert, but I do have some experience. I have traveled around the country and been to different parts of the world mountaineer and climbing. So, with that said, I have no experience, or know anyone that has experience with the "SkySaver backpack system". I have no opinion on it. It looks cool and sounds great in theory, however there isn't enough real world data or experience with it, for me to trust it. Now the Petzl Exo system, I can personally make an opinion on. I have gone off roofs of multiple story buildings, rappel out of Windows, and climb with it. the rope is highly abrasion resistant, and high heat resistant (hince why fire fighters use it). I believe it was created by a fire fighter, because of a death of a fire fighter who couldn't do a hasty evacuation. it's very compact, easy to use, can be set up very quickly. And more than half the cost of the "SkySaver backpack system". It's exactly perfect for a hasty evacuation from being trapped on a floor from a fire. Just keep in mind, it's limited in length. Created specifically for fire fighters to escape multi floor fires, but the system has also been adopted by U.S military Spec Ops units & L.E tactical/SWAT units across the world. all though it's simple to use, I highly suggest seek some training on it before using it. As with everything else, keep safety at the for front of everything you do, or testing out an piece of equipment. So I hope this will help. And if you find out any more about that "SkySaver backpack system" I'd appreciate a your thoughts on it.
Refreshing to see something new not touched on by other preppers
You'll want to get rid of the flare. It is a breathing hazard in confined spaces (because of the smoke), fire hazard in a modern office (because of the open flame), and explosion hazard if there is a gas leak. I would add a small airhorn and a high quality flashlight with a bright strobe mode.
Do the John Mclean skyscraper rappel: A Fire hose.. Awesome video. Never seen one of those "crate" hammers. looks like a solution for many urban survival kits...maybe unwrap the glow sticks and attach some small magnets to quickly stick to metal doors or handrails.
A lamented excape routes. Nomex hood & gloves,safty vest, water & Gatorade to prevent leg cramps, you can't help everyone but you could drop chem lights with people who can't move helping responders find them. The med. kit should be for you. only. You cant help anyone if you are hurt and with with 29 floors under you you couldn't carry that much stuff. They make chin straps for hard hats.
Some general ideas, some seem covered in the comments already, but here's my take:
- Since this kit is specifically for fire, switch to leather work gloves; the rubberized coating will melt on the first hot doorhandle. (Maybe get welding gloves; I've used those for working with hot cast iron pots when camping.)
- I mentioned in a relevant comment thread already, but the doorstops are a bad idea in a fire (emergency doors close automatically for a reason, to prevent smoke from spreading), and while you mentioned they might be useful in an active shooter situation in that thread, those are so incredibly rare that there's not really much point in prepping for one. Maybe keep them if they'd be useful in an earthquake and those happen where you live (I don't know much about Washington or earthquakes, unfortunately), but otherwise I'd find a way to keep doors unlocked that doesn't keep them open.
- I'd keep some reflective tape in the kit. Don't lose the gaffer's tape, since that's more versatile, but reflective tape is great specifically for signalling in low-visibility situations. You can get some cheap at most auto-parts and sporting-goods shops.
- I _wouldn't_ keep the signal flare. If you're in a disaster of any kind indoors, it's useless at best, and a liability at worst. I'd probably move that to the in-car portion of your kit.
- For rappelling, the kit you _need_ isn't very significant: Good rope; good, _locking_ carabiner; good gloves (the heat-resistant gloves are probably fine). There's some other stuff you can add, like a harness and helmet (but you've got that anyway), but there's plenty of resources out there to learn to use the rope as a harness, etc. I'd watch some TH-cam videos to get ideas, but there's really no substitute for hands-on for that sort of thing, especially if just being that high in the first place makes you nervous. (I speak from experience when I say that the first step is definitely the hardest, and you'll need some practice to get through that.) Get some rock-climbing lessons and rappelling lessons, and talk to your teachers about prepping; if they're not the kind of people who automatically think you're crazy (those sorts unfortunately exist), you can talk about the best way to secure your rope in an emergency situation. There's not going to be a lot of good anchor points in an office building. They might even be able to recommend some emergency urban piton equivalents (I assume such a thing must exist) to anchor in the floor or something.
Excellent report, greetings from Chile.
Great info. I'm going to check your updated version.
I love your kit! But as far as rappelling goes, make sure that whatever rope you use is static and not dynamic, as dynamic rope stretches and is unsafe for rappel purposes, and make sure it can actually reach ground with plenty of slack after tying knots and what not. A good idea would be to have a good climbing screw-gate carabiner pre-attached through a strong eye knot which would allow you to either connect the biner to a rail or better yet wrap around back to the rope. Also, it would be a really good idea to tie a knot on the other end so you don't accidentally slip off the end if it doesn't reach for whatever reason, it happens and could cause very serious injuries. I personally use a figure 8 rappel device, but for that height I would use a petzl self braking descender. You would also have to have a climbing harness so if you are ok with having all that gear stowed there go for it. I recommend getting experience rappelling before relying on it to save your life. And as a note, the Hollywood, bounce descending isn't the correct technique, I have see too many people smash into the sides of cliffs trying it (not saying it can't be done, but it's not the safest way down)
I would add some athletic tape. In case of an ankle sprain (or knee, for that matter), leave the shoe on, wrap the ankle and shoe (like on a football game) and continue down the stairs. Maybe add a high-vis vest. Maybe add foam ear inserts. Fire alarms can be loud. Add a woman's hair tie. Put it around your wrist and clip your flashlight to it. During the pushing and shoving of the evac, if you loose the grip on your light, it will stay with you (like a lanyard).
Love your videos man but, here are a few suggestions. 1. Get rid of that cheap noaa radio. Drop that down on concrete and she's done get a baofeng uv 5r it it is going to have more reception and you can put disaster frequencies on it and noaa and of course ems and emergency frequencies 2. Where is a photo id? Information like your name, number and next of kin can be very helpfull
U want 2 use the 1 that is used by fire-fighters plus the flare u have in ur bag can be used 4 multiple purposes not just 4 signaling it also can be used as a weapon or a fire-starter as well for a very hot survival fire
As always Cliff, an awesome and very well thought out video! I'm not convinced about the rope, BUT if you do go with it, the simplest rappel set-up is a Petzl Gri-Gri. One tubular dyneema sling and a krab to create your anchor, plus one to attach the Gri-Gri. You'll need some sort of harness too, which is adding weight and bulk, but you could get a minimalist winter mountaineering harness which would do the job. Whole system less than a hundred bucks
Thanks Richard! I'm going to check out the Gri-Gri right now. I like that price point!
You're very welcome! Yeah, I like it too...! I've used them professionally for years and found them to be super reliable. Just check the thickness of your rope though, because it looked quite thin. I think you'll be OK though. If you need anything else, just give me a shout. Thanks again, and keep up the good work! :D