IA very nice presentation! Been doing this for 40+ years and still enjoy getting new tips! Always grateful that you usually have the parts I need! Thanks for this video!
It's very important to remember that tightening the nut on the end of the shaft (which has to be very tight -(120 ft-lbs) ,will certainly squash the spacers and oil slinger thinner than they were when you checked the end play. They will reduce in thickness at least .005". Check the end play then. You'll then have to take off the nut, remove the gear, and separate the two cases to add another shim. I've often had to do this step several times to get the end play down. It's worth the effort. So on the first joining of the cases, don't use gasket cement on the joint, or you'll have a mess when you try to undo the cases. A 'dummy' gasket can be used, too, so you don't risk ripping the fial one.
Thanks for posting this it’s very helpful. I would suggest 2 related videos. One showing how to evaluate the case for excessive wear, and another showing the rest of the rebuild placing the shifting forks, and the locking plate between the cluster gear shaft and reverse idler shaft, and front main shaft bearing.
So what can you do if you dont have a "dummy" bearing and that plate steel "tool" to hold the bearing in to check the end play? And what's the part about tightening a nut? Also...when you placed the gear/shaft assembly in the top it looked like there was an oil slinger washer and a C clip already in place. Its great to have a "tips" video but itd be better to have an instructional video so an absolute novice....like my kids, can follow step by step and assemble the whole shebang themselves instead of having to troll through various videos online and reading books we don't necessarily understand trying to figure it all out ourselves.
IA very nice presentation! Been doing this for 40+ years and still enjoy getting new tips! Always grateful
that you usually have the parts I need! Thanks for this video!
It's very important to remember that tightening the nut on the end of the shaft (which has to be very tight -(120 ft-lbs) ,will certainly squash the spacers and oil slinger thinner than they were when you checked the end play. They will reduce in thickness at least .005". Check the end play then. You'll then have to take off the nut, remove the gear, and separate the two cases to add another shim. I've often had to do this step several times to get the end play down. It's worth the effort. So on the first joining of the cases, don't use gasket cement on the joint, or you'll have a mess when you try to undo the cases. A 'dummy' gasket can be used, too, so you don't risk ripping the fial one.
Really nice! Great having these videos that are to the point! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Glad you like them!
Thanks for posting this it’s very helpful. I would suggest 2 related videos. One showing how to evaluate the case for excessive wear, and another showing the rest of the rebuild placing the shifting forks, and the locking plate between the cluster gear shaft and reverse idler shaft, and front main shaft bearing.
Stay tuned😊
Спасибо очень подробная сборка Т84
Excellent !! TY
You are welcome!
I forgot I was present during filming this 🤣
👍👍👍!
So if the main shaft does pull back when you tighten the nut, what afe you supposed to do then?
So what can you do if you dont have a "dummy" bearing and that plate steel "tool" to hold the bearing in to check the end play?
And what's the part about tightening a nut? Also...when you placed the gear/shaft assembly in the top it looked like there was an oil slinger washer and a C clip already in place.
Its great to have a "tips" video but itd be better to have an instructional video so an absolute novice....like my kids, can follow step by step and assemble the whole shebang themselves instead of having to troll through various videos online and reading books we don't necessarily understand trying to figure it all out ourselves.