Please point out lining up the grease access holes in bearings with zerk hole. Check alignment with small copper wire. Great video. Great series. Added 2/3/19...Thanks to Max who pointed out the real reason for the small hole is NOT needed to line up with zerk fitting per my suggested tip. Shows you how a rookie can make trouble for himself, but thanks to experts out there to point out my errors! I keep telling my wife I need to quit fooling with these machines, just pay someone to do the work, and allow me just to drive them. LOL . Lottery chance of that happening. Still GREAT series to learn from. JeePa
That's not how it works in this application ... the hole for the grease fitting lines up BETWEEN the two Needle bearings, (They are like 1/4" apart) the hole in the outer race of the bearings is no where near the grease fitting hole, and there is NO groove in the inner bell crank casting to access those holes in the bearing races. Vintage grease guns operate at well over 10,000 PSI of pressure and have NO problem getting grease everywhere it's needed.
Thank you for the video. My willys mb has a f/n/s wheel wobble most noticeable between 30-35mph. I’ve replaced the combat rim but it still wobbles. I’m now thinking could the cause be a worn bell crank or bearings?
My CJ is a 46 with the "top mount" bellcrank. I noticed after install, there is very slight movement of the large pin, from side to side. Normal? not much very slight.....
Not mentioned - How to remove the old Bell Crank Shaft. I had to drill out the pin and then it was impossible to remove the shaft. How important is it to replace the shaft ?
David Egerton the pin is tapered. I would be hard to drill as the dimensions differ from end to end. Heat from a torch and a penetrating catalyst are your best friends. There is an early vid on removing this assembly. The shaft is important to the whole assembly. Any scoring or pitting will cause problems.
As usual a neat very professional video! Thanks Scott !
A superb video ...A really straight explanation of what you were doing and superb clear camera work too . Thanks !
As always, Scott, an excellent video! Cheers from the Great White North!🥶🥶🤣👍
Nice work. Thanks for sharing.
Please point out lining up the grease access holes in bearings with zerk hole. Check alignment with small copper wire. Great video. Great series.
Added 2/3/19...Thanks to Max who pointed out the real reason for the small hole is NOT needed to line up with zerk fitting per my suggested tip. Shows you how a rookie can make trouble for himself, but thanks to experts out there to point out my errors! I keep telling my wife I need to quit fooling with these machines, just pay someone to do the work, and allow me just to drive them. LOL . Lottery chance of that happening. Still GREAT series to learn from. JeePa
That's not how it works in this application ... the hole for the grease fitting lines up BETWEEN the two Needle bearings, (They are like 1/4" apart) the hole in the outer race of the bearings is no where near the grease fitting hole, and there is NO groove in the inner bell crank casting to access those holes in the bearing races. Vintage grease guns operate at well over 10,000 PSI of pressure and have NO problem getting grease everywhere it's needed.
Thanks for the video!
Great, good job
bonjour avez vous vos vidéos en français elles sont supert merci
Thank you for the video. My willys mb has a f/n/s wheel wobble most noticeable between 30-35mph. I’ve replaced the combat rim but it still wobbles. I’m now thinking could the cause be a worn bell crank or bearings?
My CJ is a 46 with the "top mount" bellcrank. I noticed after install, there is very slight movement of the large pin, from side to side. Normal? not much very slight.....
Not mentioned - How to remove the old Bell Crank Shaft. I had to drill out the pin and then it was impossible to remove the shaft. How important is it to replace the shaft ?
David Egerton the pin is tapered. I would be hard to drill as the dimensions differ from end to end. Heat from a torch and a penetrating catalyst are your best friends. There is an early vid on removing this assembly. The shaft is important to the whole assembly. Any scoring or pitting will cause problems.
For those who have not seen this link may help remove the old bell crank:
jeepdraw.com/images/HOW-TO-R&R-Bell-Crank-1-APR-15.pdf
Love your Vids. I did buy the same kit you bought, Its nice to see how to replace it. Did you make a video on how to remove the old Shaft (A855)?
Found your removal video. I will use these videos to guide me. th-cam.com/video/cke6TgHM_3M/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. The removal is in an earlier vid in the series. Removing the steering components 👍