What if you chose some more reasonable background music, than this same bounce from start to finish. That's really annoying to listen to. Are you so lazy that you don't bother to choose suitable music? And with a little extra work, you could have used a knife or a dremel milling cutter to make a fair recess for the plus wire in that white washer, so it would be easy to attach the cell to the base without any bending.
if you're in the US, definitely look at the instructions on your epoxy resin. the epoxy i've used starts hardening up around 10 minutes, so it would never sit for that long for air bubbles to escape. depending on the project, if your surfaces are completely coated (meaning no paper on the sides) you can use a lighter or blow torch to remove the bubbles, just a quick wand over with heat. also, the CO2 from your breath will remove air bubbles.. not by blowing on it, but by letting out a "huhhhh" breath over it... but to make a ton of solar panels, you might pass out doing that! : )
Thank! There are various types of epoxy. I use the classic one which at room temperature hardens completely for 24 hours. Resins that are harder quickly are not suitable in this case. The best way to remove the bubbles is to place the resin in a vacuum chamber. But for a slow resin, this is not required, you can just wait 20-30 minutes.
For a more finish look, place tape around the plastic, then fill epoxy to the edge. Pull off the tape in a few hours and the edge will be straight and uniform. Faster to fill because you can mix a large batch and pour in the epoxy, especially if you do a large number of these.
You mention there are no bubbles when mixing but actually there are thousands of micro-bubbles. I've been working with Epoxy a bit, and a amazing but cheap solution is just using a little spray bottle that makes fine mist with rubbing alcohol. Spray it onto the epoxy and all the bubbles disappear, it's quite satisfying, and then the Isopropyl alcohol evaporates. Try this and best! Otherwise, great idea and video. Thanks.
That`s a good tip. I bought loads of small panels and never used them. I made some automatic blinds and want to get away from power cords. Need to make at least 7 volts to power the micro controller so about 5 then.
If you're going to make a few, you might wanna make a vacuum chamber. A bicycle tire pump with hose taken off and placed at the top via drill and tap. Then a thick piece of plastic ¼ x6x6 with a hole and an intertube inlet shoved in for the other end of the hose and a pyrex bowl with a rubber seal, thats it. Sucks those bubbs right out.
Liked and added to favorite. Maybe one day i will do it despite the fact that i never ordered from a foreign website especially from aliexpress. I suggest wearing cloth gloves and not touching the cover of the solar cells because you can leave imprints or dirt spots which can reduce the efficiency. What is more challenging is to see what kind of battery and electronic parts are needed to store the electricity, to use it later at the night for example on a veiose when you have, lets say , 50 sollar cells. Can you try such a project to store the obtained electricity for later use or to get a stable/constantly power.
For a small amount of energy at night (for example, night lights in the garden), supercapacitors may be suitable - aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=&SearchText=supercapacitors
@@grain-diose awesome, thank you very much. Edit : youtube suggested me how to build a big battery with Li-Ion cells which provides 300 Watts , this is awesome but still expensive and advanced project requiring some special tools and an inverter for 230 V~. th-cam.com/video/6Ai5IRQbLcc/w-d-xo.html . Well, this is a suggestion for how to build a smaller one and without inverter ,maybe a Li-ion battery from a drilling machine should be enough.
Bravo, magnificent, what a work of precision & patience ! ! ! You could add the resin manufacturer contact in non cyrilic alphabet for those, like me, that cannot read cyrilic. 😀 Thank you for your video.
This is a resin from a Russian manufacturer, the city of Dzerzhinsk. My friend from Moscow sent this to me in Moldova. Unfortunately it is not possible to order online. But this is the best resin I have known for about 40 years! raosteklotkan.ru/catalog/poliefirnye-sistemy/komplekty-smola-i-otverditel/edp-280-detail
This makes a perfect teaching material for kids and adults the like. Particularly, the video quality is quite impressive with emphasis on detail and without loud background music. The lack of narrative is a little bit frustrating, but I guess, it may helps us keep focused when the narrator has a heavy accent... like mine :-)
Совершенно верно, видео полезно в образовательных целях, но не как не в практических, что с таких элементов взять, разве что смартфон зарядить. It is absolutely true that the video is useful for educational purposes, but not for practical purposes, what to take from such elements, except to charge your smartphone.
A propane burning torch will get the bubbles out a LOT easier and faster. Just hold it several inches away from the project and watch the bubbles pop to the surface! Also a playing card or old credit card works great for spreading the epoxy, too. Be sure to do this outdoors or in a very well ventilated area with no fire hazards around! And kids need to ASK MOM AND DAD FIRST before trying anything like this!
You shouldn't be using braided wire to connect cells because the part that has to be sobered to the back side won't allow the cells to sit flat or will in fact cause the cells to break with any minimum pressure on them. . Trust me, you want your cells to sit flat/flush against their mounting surface. Order yourself some thin, flat solar tabbing "wire" on a spool from eBay. It's easier to solder onto the cells, less likely to break the cells because it's not rigid, and allows the cells to sit flatter against their mounting surface an that's a very good thing.. And don't forget the flux! Use it liberally. Hot water soap bath to clean the excess flux and solar residue off cells once each one has tabbing wires soldered to it. scrub gently with soft plastic bristle brush or you will break cells.
You mean sharpening a soldering iron? I previously worked for about 10 years on the installation of electronics. This form of sharpening the soldering iron tip is applied at the factory.
And unlike today's fashionable form in the form of an awl, my sharpening form allows you to hold the solder on the soldering iron tip and thanks to this my left hand is free. The one who works as a sting, his left hand holds the solder. And to be able to do something else, he needs to buy a device with the name "third hand". :)
As someone with OCD I would like the panels to be heat sinked to a matt black metal backing. Just the panels work better when cold. I`ve got some small panels kicking about. They are so delicate. My friend broke one just picking it up. I will try this. Thank you.
If you want these for permanent outside, you must coat both sides to avoid moisture rusting the cells. Also, use glass (the plastic will degrade). Good for robots to find sunshine in the house!
Watch the video carefully: the epoxy resin is on top and around the edges, and on the back side is plastic. Such cells can be immersed in water without consequences.
grain, plastic will allow water to pass through over tIme and seasons. Especially when it degrades in the sun, and with changing pressure of night/day and contracting/expansion with temperature changes. They sell a sheet material called EVA that is impervious to water over time. It doesn't yellow in the sun. You vacuum seal it to both sides of the cell, or use glass on the bottom side. I made a 60 watt panel with EVA that has been in full sun for about 6 years with no rust, or moisture penetration. Epoxy on both sides of the cell is an alternative. The plastic might last a year in the weather. It's good, just not for long term.
I forgot to talk about wires. The insulation on a wire will allow a channel of air to enter/escape on a nightly basis as the panel heats and cools. This breathing will transport water vapor and will rust the cells near the solder joints unless you are very careful to seal the part of the insulation near the cell. When using EVA, you don't use insulated wire. Instead, you seal the EVA to the bare strips which serves as insulation.
@@TheRainHarvester You repeat the mistake of many commentators under this video. Why did you decide that these panels are for the roof of the house? If I did this for the roof of the house, the dimensions of the panels would be a bit larger. :) Solar panels are used not only for the roof of the house and not always the whole day for many years under the snow and the sun. Watch the titles of other videos on my channel and your questions will disappear. Only one example for my panels - a panel of 10 cells will give you 5 volts 400 mA - this is a great alternative to charging the phone on the beach and in the meadow. Watch the end of the video with the dough - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.html
4:48 in my experience of soldering, the anode solder is easier to make on this kind of surface. I used to do micro soldering in iPhones to bypass or simulate faulty chips.
the current supplied by each cell is tiny, id use a single strand of the thinnest multistrand i could find, and with 50 cells ive set them all ona single baord either 5x10 or 7x7. Then you solder a single strand on the bottom, and then epoxy them in place , then solder the top connector to its neighbour, or run a strand of bare wire down between the rows if you are going to block parallel them, then the top coat of epoxy. Theres a dozen different ways to do it.
"Пары цианоакрилата, представляющие собой мономеры, могут раздражать слизистые оболочки глаз, носа и горла, но при достаточной концентрации они моментально полимеризуются под воздействием влаги и становятся инертными. Считается, что риск может быть незначительным, если работать в хорошо проветриваемом помещении. При регулярном взаимодействии с цианоакрилатом около 5 % людей испытывают симптомы, схожие с симптомами гриппа. Цианоакрилат также может раздражать кожный покров и вызывать аллергические кожные реакции. В редких случаях вдыхание паров может вызвать астму. Для разных цианоакрилатов токсичность может существенно отличаться." Transfer: "Cyanoacrylate vapors, which are monomers, can irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose and throat, but with sufficient concentration they instantly polymerize under the influence of moisture and become inert. It is believed that the risk may be insignificant if working in a well-ventilated area. With regular interactions with cyanoacrylate, about 5% of people experience symptoms similar to flu symptoms. Cyanoacrylate can also irritate the skin and cause allergic skin reactions. In rare cases, inhalation of vapors can cause asthma. For different cyanoacrylates, toxicity may vary significantly." "Октил-2-цианоакрилат - наименее ядовитый из цианоакрилатов - применяется в медицинских целях для склеивания ран и для остановки кровотечений." Transfer: "Octyl-2-cyanoacrylate - the least toxic of cyanoacrylates - is used for medicinal purposes to glue wounds and to stop bleeding." ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Цианоакрилат
Hi, I like the video, good instruction on how to make these cells into usable assemblies. Can I suggest you scribe or cut a line in the plastic under the cell where the anode wire goes, so the cell lays flat on the plastic square, this will take most of the stress off the cell structure.
Yes, this is great advice! I thought about it already when I made the video. This advice has already been given in the comments. I'm glad that my viewers are so smart. 👍
I was thinking of making a modular plastic frame for solar cells with contacts going down the plastic... Would make it a lot easier in my mind as you just place the cell carefully and coat it with a thin amount of epoxy. I also want to try putting epoxy resin in a vacuum with the solar cell, I just have the fear it might crack, but for 24 cents I can't complain.
Congratulations for your nice work!!! I liked it very much. Very, very well explained, indeed! It's 0.440 volts for each cell and about the ampers, how many miliamperes each one? Thank you for your answer.
Each cell provides 0.5 volts. The strength of the current depends on the brightness of the light, with these cells being more sensitive to infrared light. In the sun, the cells give 0.4 amps, that is, 0.2 watts each cell.
Resina y Endurecedor (generalmente se venden en las tiendas que se especializan en trabajos manuales de figuras de yeso, florería, marcos de madera para fotografías, copas de cristal y muchos otros utensilios más). El producto se vende a dos partes iguales de Endurecedor y Resina. Estos se unen en un recipiente de plástico, se agitan con una pequeña espátula de madera o plástico y al estarse mezclando ambas medidas están comienzan a hervir (exotermia) poco a poco debido a la reacción química de sus componentes, al llegar a ese "calentamiento" eso significa que la mezcla de los dos componentes está en "su punto exacto" para ya poder ser empleado en el recubrimiento de los objetos. El único defecto de este compuesto químico epoxi es que no puede ser sometido a ciclos constantes de fuerzas extremas de altas y bajas temperaturas ya que comienza a resquebrajarse o a ponerse opaco después de muchos ciclos de estarse enfrentando a la luz solar y luego a la oscuridad. El calor solar acelera su destrucción. Lo más viable para poder reemplazar a este producto es colocar dichas laminillas de cristal sólido debajo de otro vidrio más grueso. Este vidrio lo protege del calor y los abrasivos térmicos tanto del frío y el calor así como de la lluvia y la nieve e incluso el granizo. Saludos desde México. México a 08 junio de 2024.
Thank you, I clean with alcohol. Acetone fumes are harmful, I do not advise using it. For this reason, acetone is not sold in Molodva. Here I did not clean the rosin, because it does not affect the quality does not affect the appearance. :) Please note rosin is not visible after coating with epoxy resin.
Замечательный канал. Душа отдыхает после всяких Тирх.... однако ожидал большего по аннонсу. Было сказано "как я делаю солнечные панели" - это же скорее "как хоть как то защетить фотоэлемент от неосторожного воздействия"..... хотя с меня все равно лайк😊 ..... Так как насчет того, чтоб утереть нос всем, и в замкнутом контуре , где холодильник внизу, а нагреватель сверху добиться циркуляции теплоносителя без подключения к электросети или аккумулятору 😎
never saw this many bubbles in epoxy, and your quality too if you just tilt your mix you get better result. next problem is epoxy turn orange after long UV radiation.
Try stirring the epoxy for 30 minutes and you will see bubbles. In order for the resin to have no divorce after curing and to look beautiful, long stirring is required. As for UV radiation, you may be right, but my method is not intended for the roof of the house and providing it with energy, it is simply unprofitable and troublesome. I make such panels for my experiments. But you can use this method for example to make a panel of 10 cells and charge your phone during a picnic. This will give 5 Volts and 400 mA, see here - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.html
@@grain-diose not bad yeah 2W, i mix my epoxy about 2 min and it works too (iam very carefull while mixing, bubbles dont really disappear while let it sit). i like that you are not offended rather you give an solid answer. i would use polyurethane lacquer transparent for this panels
Actually, don't worry about vigorously mixing the epoxy at all, and some might recommend a heat gun or torch. Don't do either, mix well and just use a fine mist spray bottle with some 70% or higher Isopropyl alcohol.. spray it on and watch all the thousands of micro bubbles, even the ones you can't see just disappear.. it's very satisfying and a cheap but awesome solution. I wouldn't use a heat gun/torch, because introducing heat can make the epoxy set quicker, too much can actually warp the epoxy unevenly aka burning it, and again too much heat could damage the cell. Best!
Why poliester resin? and why not to spray it but apply it with toothpick? While you prepare the plastic support it is positive if you open canals for wires, that will help you stabilizing the wires easier.
Few remarks, if I may. Since most epoxy is not UV-proof, I think you need a kind that is and that is for sale. Otherwise it turns to a bit to yellow/brown, and not shining anymore, after a while. Or protect it with a UV-coating. Made a few myself, like you, about 20 years ago and they still work fine. And why not use a vacuum to get the air out, in the cup with the epoxy? A vacuum-cleaner will do the job. Spinning it while curing, could be an option, may be, Did not try that, may be for the next solar-cells. And later on also, to get a better connection and underlaying, while curing. Takes some more epoxy, ok, but also more durability, in wheather things, like hail. A form will spares a lot of time, I think and easier to combine more cells. And please take care for the epoxy-allergy, so use gloves and a mask etc. Epoxy ressin hardly shrinks and is very resistend, so good choice and thank you for this video.
Thanks for the tips! Yes, epoxy resin is also harmful, I forgot to write. About ultraviolet: the cells that I use give better current from heat rays - infrared radiation. I showed in some videos how well they work from the candle, from the match and from the incandescent lamp. And this video as my whole channel is not for serious home-made products for the home, it is entertainment products. However, from these solar cells, you can make a battery for travel. I connected 10 cells last summer and got a current of 0.4A on charging a smartphone - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.htmlm10s
@@legallyinsane7151 it may well be polyester resin or similar, but Epoxy is not only 50/50. Have literally bought and used several ton in stone industry , and that is used variably at less than5% to no more than 10%
You are absolutely right, but you can not break into identical pieces. It is easier to buy the same cells, but smaller. 52x19mm 100pcs US $10.00 - ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-52x19mm-Polycrystalline-Silicon-solar-cell-for-DIY-solar-panel-DIY-cells/32611773913.html
Friends, if you are interested in the development of my channel, you can support it here - buymeacoffee.com/graindiose
What if you chose some more reasonable background music, than this same bounce from start to finish. That's really annoying to listen to. Are you so lazy that you don't bother to choose suitable music? And with a little extra work, you could have used a knife or a dremel milling cutter to make a fair recess for the plus wire in that white washer, so it would be easy to attach the cell to the base without any bending.
No comments. Great wort thanks.
شما که زحمت ویدئو رو کشیدید چه قدر خوب بود مواد لازم را حداقل به فارسی ترجمه میکردی 🤗
Perfect video,greetings from Romania!!
Interesting, Russian friend. However, I don't know if these little panels would be available here in America, but it was a very god idea!
Aliexpress is not available in America? - aliexpress.com/item/32843077554.html
Great video .
Very helpful .
Sir ,thank you so much for shearing your knowledge .
I am from Sri Lanka .
excellent tutorial really professional and detailed but yet easy and concise.
Congratulation for your excellent video!. Very neat & perfect job!. You are a perfectionist!. Bravo & THANK you
去年學過有關太陽能光電架設，你的影片如老師告訴我太陽能板的製作方式
if you're in the US, definitely look at the instructions on your epoxy resin. the epoxy i've used starts hardening up around 10 minutes, so it would never sit for that long for air bubbles to escape. depending on the project, if your surfaces are completely coated (meaning no paper on the sides) you can use a lighter or blow torch to remove the bubbles, just a quick wand over with heat. also, the CO2 from your breath will remove air bubbles.. not by blowing on it, but by letting out a "huhhhh" breath over it... but to make a ton of solar panels, you might pass out doing that! : )
Thank! There are various types of epoxy. I use the classic one which at room temperature hardens completely for 24 hours. Resins that are harder quickly are not suitable in this case. The best way to remove the bubbles is to place the resin in a vacuum chamber. But for a slow resin, this is not required, you can just wait 20-30 minutes.
@@grain-diose I'm in india I'm a college student i need to make solar panel in my self . How to i buy the epoxy glue . Send me the buy link
Kripya galat na kyunki jab ham Bana de tab Nahin banta
nice trick to make cheap solar cell... thanks for your sharing bro ... well done
For a more finish look, place tape around the plastic, then fill epoxy to the edge. Pull off the tape in a few hours and the edge will be straight and uniform. Faster to fill because you can mix a large batch and pour in the epoxy, especially if you do a large number of these.
Traduzir para o português
Thanks
You mention there are no bubbles when mixing but actually there are thousands of micro-bubbles. I've been working with Epoxy a bit, and a amazing but cheap solution is just using a little spray bottle that makes fine mist with rubbing alcohol. Spray it onto the epoxy and all the bubbles disappear, it's quite satisfying, and then the Isopropyl alcohol evaporates. Try this and best! Otherwise, great idea and video. Thanks.
That`s a good tip. I bought loads of small panels and never used them. I made some automatic blinds and want to get away from power cords. Need to make at least 7 volts to power the micro controller so about 5 then.
If you're going to make a few, you might wanna make a vacuum chamber. A bicycle tire pump with hose taken off and placed at the top via drill and tap. Then a thick piece of plastic ¼ x6x6 with a hole and an intertube inlet shoved in for the other end of the hose and a pyrex bowl with a rubber seal, thats it. Sucks those bubbs right out.
Liked and added to favorite. Maybe one day i will do it despite the fact that i never ordered from a foreign website especially from aliexpress.
I suggest wearing cloth gloves and not touching the cover of the solar cells because you can leave imprints or dirt spots which can reduce the efficiency.
What is more challenging is to see what kind of battery and electronic parts are needed to store the electricity, to use it later at the night for example on a veiose when you have, lets say , 50 sollar cells. Can you try such a project to store the obtained electricity for later use or to get a stable/constantly power.
For a small amount of energy at night (for example, night lights in the garden), supercapacitors may be suitable - aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=&SearchText=supercapacitors
@@grain-diose awesome, thank you very much.
Edit : youtube suggested me how to build a big battery with Li-Ion cells which provides 300 Watts , this is awesome but still expensive and advanced project requiring some special tools and an inverter for 230 V~. th-cam.com/video/6Ai5IRQbLcc/w-d-xo.html . Well, this is a suggestion for how to build a smaller one and without inverter ,maybe a Li-ion battery from a drilling machine should be enough.
Bravo, magnificent, what a work of precision & patience ! ! !
You could add the resin manufacturer contact in non cyrilic alphabet for those, like me, that cannot read cyrilic.
😀
Thank you for your video.
This is a resin from a Russian manufacturer, the city of Dzerzhinsk. My friend from Moscow sent this to me in Moldova. Unfortunately it is not possible to order online. But this is the best resin I have known for about 40 years!
raosteklotkan.ru/catalog/poliefirnye-sistemy/komplekty-smola-i-otverditel/edp-280-detail
This makes a perfect teaching material for kids and adults the like. Particularly, the video quality is quite impressive with emphasis on detail and without loud background music. The lack of narrative is a little bit frustrating, but I guess, it may helps us keep focused when the narrator has a heavy accent... like mine :-)
l am a Waris Ali and what is these
Совершенно верно, видео полезно в образовательных целях, но не как не в практических, что с таких элементов взять, разве что смартфон зарядить.
It is absolutely true that the video is useful for educational purposes, but not for practical purposes, what to take from such elements, except to charge your smartphone.
Very inspiring👍thanks a lot for your good share✌️we ma make a solar panel too similar with this way (no need a glass, clear resin is enough). WATB.
A propane burning torch will get the bubbles out a LOT easier and faster. Just hold it several inches away from the project and watch the bubbles pop to the surface! Also a playing card or old credit card works great for spreading the epoxy, too. Be sure to do this outdoors or in a very well ventilated area with no fire hazards around! And kids need to ASK MOM AND DAD FIRST before trying anything like this!
Pls I like to learn more about it. Is soo lovely to watch it. Am chuka live in Italy. Thanks
You shouldn't be using braided wire to connect cells because the part that has to be sobered to the back side won't allow the cells to sit flat or will in fact cause the cells to break with any minimum pressure on them. . Trust me, you want your cells to sit flat/flush against their mounting surface. Order yourself some thin, flat solar tabbing "wire" on a spool from eBay. It's easier to solder onto the cells, less likely to break the cells because it's not rigid, and allows the cells to sit flatter against their mounting surface an that's a very good thing.. And don't forget the flux! Use it liberally. Hot water soap bath to clean the excess flux and solar residue off cells once each one has tabbing wires soldered to it. scrub gently with soft plastic bristle brush or you will break cells.
Love reading other comments, hilarious. You are an inspiration, please keep sharing you ideas.
Ideas help others create visions.
I'm from India🇮🇳. I like your work
good job
The tip of your soldering iron is so funky...hehe
You mean sharpening a soldering iron? I previously worked for about 10 years on the installation of electronics. This form of sharpening the soldering iron tip is applied at the factory.
And unlike today's fashionable form in the form of an awl, my sharpening form allows you to hold the solder on the soldering iron tip and thanks to this my left hand is free. The one who works as a sting, his left hand holds the solder. And to be able to do something else, he needs to buy a device with the name "third hand". :)
@phuck ewe Maybe. The flat part of the tip with solder looks down. But I promise to clean my tip next time. :)
As someone with OCD I would like the panels to be heat sinked to a matt black metal backing. Just the panels work better when cold. I`ve got some small panels kicking about. They are so delicate. My friend broke one just picking it up. I will try this. Thank you.
the finished epoxy looked amazing!
I would love to try your cost cutting idea
If you want these for permanent outside, you must coat both sides to avoid moisture rusting the cells. Also, use glass (the plastic will degrade). Good for robots to find sunshine in the house!
Watch the video carefully: the epoxy resin is on top and around the edges, and on the back side is plastic. Such cells can be immersed in water without consequences.
grain, plastic will allow water to pass through over tIme and seasons. Especially when it degrades in the sun, and with changing pressure of night/day and contracting/expansion with temperature changes.
They sell a sheet material called EVA that is impervious to water over time. It doesn't yellow in the sun. You vacuum seal it to both sides of the cell, or use glass on the bottom side. I made a 60 watt panel with EVA that has been in full sun for about 6 years with no rust, or moisture penetration.
Epoxy on both sides of the cell is an alternative.
The plastic might last a year in the weather. It's good, just not for long term.
I forgot to talk about wires. The insulation on a wire will allow a channel of air to enter/escape on a nightly basis as the panel heats and cools. This breathing will transport water vapor and will rust the cells near the solder joints unless you are very careful to seal the part of the insulation near the cell. When using EVA, you don't use insulated wire. Instead, you seal the EVA to the bare strips which serves as insulation.
@@TheRainHarvester You repeat the mistake of many commentators under this video. Why did you decide that these panels are for the roof of the house? If I did this for the roof of the house, the dimensions of the panels would be a bit larger. :) Solar panels are used not only for the roof of the house and not always the whole day for many years under the snow and the sun.
Watch the titles of other videos on my channel and your questions will disappear. Only one example for my panels - a panel of 10 cells will give you 5 volts 400 mA - this is a great alternative to charging the phone on the beach and in the meadow. Watch the end of the video with the dough - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.html
grain , I didn't say roof with multiple cells. Just outside. Peace! You made a good video!
What tension/current each cell provides?
0.5 Volt. The current in the sun is 0.4 Amperes.
@@grain-diose Nice, thank you very much for the video, going to be very useful for my projects
Actually making a solar panel would be interesting .. so many vids on how to glue pre made one's together
@@DebakinandanSarkar are doing copyng and pasting on other channels the same text ?
Yep poor grammar. All of them are confusing putting together with making.
4:48 in my experience of soldering, the anode solder is easier to make on this kind of surface. I used to do micro soldering in iPhones to bypass or simulate faulty chips.
Why would you want to bypass that
congratulations brow!!!! nice work...everyone says do it, d't do that.... but you make it man... show...
the current supplied by each cell is tiny, id use a single strand of the thinnest multistrand i could find, and with 50 cells ive set them all ona single baord either 5x10 or 7x7. Then you solder a single strand on the bottom, and then epoxy them in place , then solder the top connector to its neighbour, or run a strand of bare wire down between the rows if you are going to block parallel them, then the top coat of epoxy. Theres a dozen different ways to do it.
Mantab bos ... Matur nuwun 😍
Cyanoacrylate is not harmful. It even being used in medical procedure where it often used to seal wound that cannot be stitched.
"Пары цианоакрилата, представляющие собой мономеры, могут раздражать слизистые оболочки глаз, носа и горла, но при достаточной концентрации они моментально полимеризуются под воздействием влаги и становятся инертными. Считается, что риск может быть незначительным, если работать в хорошо проветриваемом помещении. При регулярном взаимодействии с цианоакрилатом около 5 % людей испытывают симптомы, схожие с симптомами гриппа. Цианоакрилат также может раздражать кожный покров и вызывать аллергические кожные реакции. В редких случаях вдыхание паров может вызвать астму. Для разных цианоакрилатов токсичность может существенно отличаться."
Transfer:
"Cyanoacrylate vapors, which are monomers, can irritate the mucous membranes of the eyes, nose and throat, but with sufficient concentration they instantly polymerize under the influence of moisture and become inert. It is believed that the risk may be insignificant if working in a well-ventilated area. With regular interactions with cyanoacrylate, about 5% of people experience symptoms similar to flu symptoms. Cyanoacrylate can also irritate the skin and cause allergic skin reactions. In rare cases, inhalation of vapors can cause asthma. For different cyanoacrylates, toxicity may vary significantly."
"Октил-2-цианоакрилат - наименее ядовитый из цианоакрилатов - применяется в медицинских целях для склеивания ран и для остановки кровотечений."
Transfer:
"Octyl-2-cyanoacrylate - the least toxic of cyanoacrylates - is used for medicinal purposes to glue wounds and to stop bleeding."
ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/Цианоакрилат
Thanks a lot of interactive video, it's truly inspired. WATB🙏
I'd cut a little groove in the support panel where the positive wire goes, so it would lay flatter.
Great advice, thanks! I thought that too, but already when I watched the finished video. :)
resin becomes more pliable if you apply a little heat also you can get rid of the bubbles with a little heat you can also get a bubble release spray
Hi, I like the video, good instruction on how to make these cells into usable assemblies.
Can I suggest you scribe or cut a line in the plastic under the cell where the anode wire goes, so the cell lays flat on the plastic square, this will take most of the stress off the cell structure.
Yes, this is great advice! I thought about it already when I made the video. This advice has already been given in the comments. I'm glad that my viewers are so smart. 👍
I was thinking of making a modular plastic frame for solar cells with contacts going down the plastic... Would make it a lot easier in my mind as you just place the cell carefully and coat it with a thin amount of epoxy. I also want to try putting epoxy resin in a vacuum with the solar cell, I just have the fear it might crack, but for 24 cents I can't complain.
I don't think the most integral part of the panel is the epoxy glue..."how to make solar panel with solar cells" would be a better title.
Congratulations for your nice work!!! I liked it very much. Very, very well explained, indeed! It's 0.440 volts for each cell and about the ampers, how many miliamperes each one? Thank you for your answer.
Each cell provides 0.5 volts. The strength of the current depends on the brightness of the light, with these cells being more sensitive to infrared light. In the sun, the cells give 0.4 amps, that is, 0.2 watts each cell.
@@grain-diose Thank you very much for your answer.
Resina y Endurecedor (generalmente se venden en las tiendas que se especializan en trabajos manuales de figuras de yeso, florería, marcos de madera para fotografías, copas de cristal y muchos otros utensilios más).
El producto se vende a dos partes iguales de Endurecedor y Resina. Estos se unen en un recipiente de plástico, se agitan con una pequeña espátula de madera o plástico y al estarse mezclando ambas medidas están comienzan a hervir (exotermia) poco a poco debido a la reacción química de sus componentes, al llegar a ese "calentamiento" eso significa que la mezcla de los dos componentes está en "su punto exacto" para ya poder ser empleado en el recubrimiento de los objetos. El único defecto de este compuesto químico epoxi es que no puede ser sometido a ciclos constantes de fuerzas extremas de altas y bajas temperaturas ya que comienza a resquebrajarse o a ponerse opaco después de muchos ciclos de estarse enfrentando a la luz solar y luego a la oscuridad. El calor solar acelera su destrucción. Lo más viable para poder reemplazar a este producto es colocar dichas laminillas de cristal sólido debajo de otro vidrio más grueso. Este vidrio lo protege del calor y los abrasivos térmicos tanto del frío y el calor así como de la lluvia y la nieve e incluso el granizo. Saludos desde México. México a 08 junio de 2024.
Very good video!. Thank you!.
Awesome video
Good job, top idea
Who else came to the comments section to see if it works?😂
Me
Wow so nice grain
Dobrá práce!
Thanks for sharing
good music, work and edit thank you man:)
Tahank you for inspiration Grain
Wonderful sir
Wow nice toys
If i could fill my whole house with solar pannels , whose knows how much free energy i will get😁😁
You could clean the rosin off with acetone. (Nail polish remover!)
Thank you, I clean with alcohol. Acetone fumes are harmful, I do not advise using it. For this reason, acetone is not sold in Molodva.
Here I did not clean the rosin, because it does not affect the quality does not affect the appearance. :) Please note rosin is not visible after coating with epoxy resin.
@@grain-diose Ok, Thank you for the reply! ☺
You could add this information in the video
thanks a lot ,,, very nice clean arranged educational lesson
Ur 3d music in earphones is AWESOME
SEI GRANDE OTTIMO LAVORO
Grazie!
useful video how to make solar
We'll done Respactabile Sir
Great video!
Good job good idea love you from PAKISTAN
I it is a great tutorial. This tutorial help us to make many things. Please make more awesome video like this. Thanks
tertarik ini rasanya untuk membuat pannel tenaga surya, sangat cocok utnuk daerah pegunungan
Замечательный канал. Душа отдыхает после всяких Тирх.... однако ожидал большего по аннонсу. Было сказано "как я делаю солнечные панели" - это же скорее "как хоть как то защетить фотоэлемент от неосторожного воздействия"..... хотя с меня все равно лайк😊 ..... Так как насчет того, чтоб утереть нос всем, и в замкнутом контуре , где холодильник внизу, а нагреватель сверху добиться циркуляции теплоносителя без подключения к электросети или аккумулятору 😎
А решение где-то рядом😁 в этом вашем видео между 1 и 2 минутой косвенное тому доказательство😊
Фотоэлемент это деталь, материал, а панель это готовое изделие, прибор. Также как лампочка и торшер.
@@grain-diose th-cam.com/video/fBGlfE20wN4/w-d-xo.html ох... ваше видео не прикрепилось
Very helpful...free energy
This is great if you have more time than money and if you already have these materials at hand. Otherwise the higher price may be just as good.
it's very nice
So HAPPY you are using Metric! Fantastic. Is so bloody annoying with US still using backward imperial
thanks for the tutorial.. 👍👍
never saw this many bubbles in epoxy, and your quality too if you just tilt your mix you get better result. next problem is epoxy turn orange after long UV radiation.
Try stirring the epoxy for 30 minutes and you will see bubbles. In order for the resin to have no divorce after curing and to look beautiful, long stirring is required. As for UV radiation, you may be right, but my method is not intended for the roof of the house and providing it with energy, it is simply unprofitable and troublesome. I make such panels for my experiments. But you can use this method for example to make a panel of 10 cells and charge your phone during a picnic. This will give 5 Volts and 400 mA, see here - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.html
@@grain-diose not bad yeah 2W, i mix my epoxy about 2 min and it works too (iam very carefull while mixing, bubbles dont really disappear while let it sit). i like that you are not offended rather you give an solid answer. i would use polyurethane lacquer transparent for this panels
Actually, don't worry about vigorously mixing the epoxy at all, and some might recommend a heat gun or torch. Don't do either, mix well and just use a fine mist spray bottle with some 70% or higher Isopropyl alcohol.. spray it on and watch all the thousands of micro bubbles, even the ones you can't see just disappear.. it's very satisfying and a cheap but awesome solution. I wouldn't use a heat gun/torch, because introducing heat can make the epoxy set quicker, too much can actually warp the epoxy unevenly aka burning it, and again too much heat could damage the cell. Best!
Thank you
Very easy work thank you
👌
A Non-Yellowing epoxy I also would recommend. Thanks for the video..
Smart ...
G ik
Great Video thanks , can I incorporate the same method to make big solar panels? Did you make any video for that?
Thanks
Very good
loved this
great n great dear
Ага, попался русский агент))
Хорошее видео, лайк! Пасибо за идею!
Why poliester resin? and why not to spray it but apply it with toothpick? While you prepare the plastic support it is positive if you open canals for wires, that will help you stabilizing the wires easier.
buen vídeo excelente trabajo esta muy interesante saludos y gracias
Thank you for this video! You helped me a lot:D
😂😂
O Bhai mujhe bhula doge
Bhai mujhe dila doge Munger ka
For cutting the long strips into shorter squares, a paper cutting board would help drastically. It comes already with a measuring scale on it.
These are details of the personal taste of each master. :)
This is true :)
good work
Few remarks, if I may. Since most epoxy is not UV-proof, I think you need a kind that is and that is for sale. Otherwise it turns to a bit to yellow/brown, and not shining anymore, after a while. Or protect it with a UV-coating.
Made a few myself, like you, about 20 years ago and they still work fine.
And why not use a vacuum to get the air out, in the cup with the epoxy?
A vacuum-cleaner will do the job. Spinning it while curing, could be an option, may be, Did not try that, may be for the next solar-cells.
And later on also, to get a better connection and underlaying, while curing. Takes some more epoxy, ok, but also more durability, in wheather things, like hail.
A form will spares a lot of time, I think and easier to combine more cells.
And please take care for the epoxy-allergy, so use gloves and a mask etc.
Epoxy ressin hardly shrinks and is very resistend, so good choice and thank you for this video.
Thanks for the tips! Yes, epoxy resin is also harmful, I forgot to write. About ultraviolet: the cells that I use give better current from heat rays - infrared radiation. I showed in some videos how well they work from the candle, from the match and from the incandescent lamp. And this video as my whole channel is not for serious home-made products for the home, it is entertainment products. However, from these solar cells, you can make a battery for travel. I connected 10 cells last summer and got a current of 0.4A on charging a smartphone - th-cam.com/video/WWKRbpPzECc/w-d-xo.htmlm10s
Frits, that wasn't epoxy resin, more likely polyester resin at 9 to 1 hardener. Epoxy is 50/50.
@@legallyinsane7151 it may well be polyester resin or similar, but
Epoxy is not only 50/50.
Have literally bought and used several ton in stone industry , and that is used variably at less than5% to no more than 10%
@@legallyinsane7151 also we use 3：1
Well done video ! Very helpful. Easy to follow. Thank you for doing this.for us.
I'm glad that someone needs it.
It is a great video.
Enjoyed and subscribed,
Greetings from Minnesota U.S.A. :D
Thank you! Greetings from Moldova!
THANK YOU VERY CREATIVE.
Nice and careful video. Very explanatory notes! Thnx!!
good luck in your innovative ideas
good work!
what is the anode and cathode material? what is the blue color, and how did apply it?
You can break cells into smaller pieces and solder them in series to increase voltage (but reduce current).
You are absolutely right, but you can not break into identical pieces. It is easier to buy the same cells, but smaller.
52x19mm 100pcs US $10.00 - ru.aliexpress.com/item/10pcs-52x19mm-Polycrystalline-Silicon-solar-cell-for-DIY-solar-panel-DIY-cells/32611773913.html
Good idea
Nice one
Good impressed
Thanks .for me es great .God bless you all,ever.
I like this!!