Pro Tips: How to Make a Thin Concrete Repair | Concrete Repair | DIY Project Guide
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ค. 2024
- Chips happen. So does spalling, pitting, pop-outs and all sorts of other minor concrete damage. The good news: they're all easy fixes with the right tools and know how. Concrete Expert Dirk Tharpe shows you how.
Get more Pro Tips on this project at sakrete.com/project-guide/repairing-thin-concrete-damage.
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0:00 - Welcome to Sakrete Pro Tips
0:21 - Know Your Mix
0:42 - Surface Prep
0:58 - Mix and Place
1:22 - Trowel
1:44 - Checking for Delamination
2:10 - Applying a Skim Coat
2:20 - Broom Finish
Wow. Thank you. Exactly what I needed to know
Right on - glad we could help!
Great video. Ordered some at the conclusion of your demonstration.
Right on! No better endorsement than that.
Let us know if we can do anything else to help your job go smoothly.
Thanks for the info. Defintely I will go with Top n Bond
Any time!
I used a sponge to finish it on a concrete wall. Looks like it was parged like a professional
Love the sponge - killer technique!
I am planning to use this to resurface my badly damaged stairs. Will it be ok to use on vertical step risers also ? Is Top n bond mainly for horizontal surfaces ? Thanks
Top 'N Bond can definitely handle vertical surfaces - perfect application for that mix!
I did repair a spalling patch , but the surface developed some fine spider webbing on a part of the surface
Sounds like a bit of improper curing is to blame. Though that web cracking is probably just aesthetic, you could certainly give it another coat to make things look clean. Remember to keep the patch moist for about 24 hours next time!
Great video! Does it dry pretty light or dark? Any videos with finished look?
Slightly darker than the concrete you're repairing, in general...but definitely a nice, natural concrete gray.
Good suggestion - we'll look at updating the video with a fully-cured finished product.
For Top and Bond they say if the fill depth is greater than 1/2 inch, you can fill in layers but you have have to wait for each layer to dry. But how long or how dry should it be before adding another layer ? And how thick can you build it up ?
Good question!
Safest bet is to wait the full 24 hours before adding additional layers - but there's no real limit to how high you can go.
That said, if you've got a deep repair that you need to tackle, you might consider using a different material (eg. Fast Setting Cement Patcher) and then coming back and using Top 'N Bond for the finishing feather edge - could be faster than building up layers of Top 'N Bond.
thanks for the advice@@SakreteOfficial
That's what we're here for!
What is the best mix(s) to use as a primer coat to save money by using a two step mix overall feather to 1" repairs on top for larger overall projects? I have about 30 ft of driveway curb that has a rough chiseled 6" x1" deep edge that i want to bring back up to the level of the rest of the driveway surface and restore the tooled edge. This material seems like it would be costly for that many cubic inches of material.
Shouldn't you have wet the surface thoroughly (but not wet) prior to the application? I see the spray bottle ready to go.
Correct that you could do Top 'N Bond in two lifts, but the ideal mix would be our Pro-Mix All-Purpose Cement Mix - you can go 0" - 4" in a single lift with that mix. Super fast-setting and high-strength - it's a better version of CTS Rapid Set (not to name names)...
Sounds like this repair is about 1.3 cubic feet of material, so you're looking at about 4x 50# bags of material. Under $100, and a heck of a lot easier than demolishing and re-pouring...though that's certainly an option too.
Is it sandable, as used to repair the top of a concrete counter top?
Yep, it'd work well for that! It's a high PSI mix. Just make sure you're applying it thick enough to stand up to grinding!
Will this work on a garage floor that have pitted and scaled in multiple areas?
Absolutely. The only watch-out with garage floors is making sure you clean them like crazy before applying a cementitous patching product.
We've got another great video on surface prep that you should check out before getting started: The Three C's of Surface Prep: th-cam.com/video/5NJQEpTHk-Q/w-d-xo.html
How long before you can walk on it ?
ok i see where you said 24 hours
The instructions say no need to wet during curing/setting. Is that strictly true ? What if there is a lot of sun shining on the repair ?
You're 100% correct that you should keep a Top 'N Bond patch damp during the curing process - always a best practice!
Can you let us know where you saw the "no need to wet during curing / setting" language? Sounds like there might be a typo out there that needs correcting.
@@SakreteOfficial in the Sakrete Top n bond CURING section published by Sakrete Canada :.."Do not wet the surface
with water after troweling operation has been completed."". However, it seems correct on Top n Bond concrete patcher doc ( mar 2016 ver 1.1) "" Keep the surface damp, using a sprinkler, wet burlap, or cover with plastic for several days as needed..""
@@SakreteOfficial www.sakretecanada.com/dam/dms/ca01/8/Sakrete%20top_n%20bond_pds-en.pdf
Thanks! We'll talk to our Canadian brethren about making that adjustment. Greatly appreciate the catch!
Shoot us an email at info@sakrete.com - would love to get you some Sakrete gear as a thank you.
@@SakreteOfficial email address does not work
Will this work on vertical surfaces to repair hairline cracks in parging? Thanks
As long as it's applied thin enough, absolutely.
Can you apply over cracks repaired by 2 part epoxy ?
With proper surface prep, that should be feasible. Main concern would be bonding to the slick surface of an epoxy, so it'd be best to try and remove as much of that old material as possible first.
@@SakreteOfficial the epoxy is a crack repair. If I cannot cover it ,I was hoping to be able to feather in concrete resurfacer close to the epoxy. The line where they meet is then an issue
We'd be concerned about the adhesion, even over a thin repair like that...though it might be worth a test.
The best bet would be to treat the repaired crack like an expansion joint and just fill that area with a flexible sealant, but obviously this isn't the most aesthetic solution.
Give the Tech Team a call to discuss in more detail! 866-SAKRETE or via Live Chat at Sakrete.com.
It is a bit complicated. I wonder what people do when there are cracks inside a large spall area. Covering the entire spall with epoxy means a lot more expense@@SakreteOfficial
Very true. Honestly, we'd suggest just using a cementitious repair all the way down - minimizes bonding issues and will likely be MORE than strong enough for whatever applications a normal floor sees.
Yeah but what's it look like dry sakrete videos never show that.
Looks like concrete, baby!
Seriously though, patches are generally slightly darker than existing concrete, but will lighten as they age. Also a good point - we'll make a note to show the final cured product in the future!
WOW that patch looked like crap . Maybe that stuff works but he's not the guy to do the work . big edge sticking up . I mean really dude and you posted that haha
maybe too wet ?
Possibly, but spider cracking typically points to drying happening too rapidly. Keeping the patch moist while it's curing is critical - sounds like it might've just gotten a bit dry prematurely!
@@SakreteOfficial thanks