Thanks for your video sir, I have same problem with Port B has been connection break due to incorrect cable positif & negative while charger . Please advice sir, so i can do same like on your video here ?
In general i like your videos but if i'm not wrong this is 230V/115V PSU (you maybe shouldn't animate people to put their fingers on this, or at least put in a big blinky disclaimer) in it and you definitely loose the port protection. I would highly recommend to replace with (maybe slightly higher rated) fuses.
There's no danger of the high voltage side your not touching any of it just the low voltage side and many of the chargers out there have no fuse at all on the low voltage rails
@@WTFRCCars ~6:40 you had it in your fingers ;-) However, i would at least warn people to take care. The capacitor can be charged and that hurts when discharged on your fingers, believe me xD. Yeah, many don't have any fuses, but imho they should be there. But would be much nicer when they are changeable without opening the case. Whether it is a construction error or why it would result in the problem but would be interesting to explore. What did you say they are rated for?
@HW-Origin the ones fitted are 20amp ? Or marked as 20amp and I do tell people to watch the cap but these are drained down they have a resistor to drain them so little chance or a zap but still best keep ya fingers off them :)
The fuses are labeled as 20A on my two chargers. But the bigger problem is when you connect a battery to port A while it is in DC output mode, in case you forget to exit this mode. It will blow the FETs on this port. The bad thing is it will short the DC power input on the main board rendering the whole unit non-functional. It's a design flaw.
Yeh the only plus on these you can't leave it trying to charge as soon as you disconnect the battery charging stops and if you power it off it will never power on trying to charge but yeh not a great design on some of the chargers
@@WTFRCCars That's another flaw I haven't encountered. I replaced the main board on mine and you can get it for US$37 but the shipping for me was another $35 so that was about 1/2 the original cost. It happened 10 days into my owning it and Bangood wouldn't cover the cost. They said it was my fault. So be careful with Banggood and honoring warranty claims.
If you dead short it then the solder or trace will still blow i've tried it on a good few of them its just a poor choice of e fuse that they have gone with :)
I don't have this charger (although, I do have a could of their B6Neo chargers...I hope they aren't prone to this problem), nor do I currently have any plans to get one (my current 'primary' charger is a Junsi iCharger 406 Duo)...but, this reminds me of a problem I had several years ago with a Traxxas EZ-Peak Dual charger (I can't remember if it was the 'Live', or standard). The charger was barely 6 months old (literally, a week after the 6mo warranty expired). One day, I started charging two batteries, starting with the left side, followed a could minutes later with the right side. 1-2 minutes later, I heard a "pop", followed by smoke coming out the vents on the right side. 'Something' having to do with charging on the right side had blown. I don't know what, specifically, the cause was, but it seems it's possible that it was the internal fuse, exactly as your describing in this video. On the 'plus' side, I contacted Traxxas, and, even though, technically, the warranty was expired, they sent me a replacement, and instructed me to dispose of the "defective" unit. Of course, it was less than two months later that I bought my first 3rd-party charger (HiTec X2 AC Plus Black Edition), and started switch all batteries away from Traxxas. Since then, I haven't used (nor do I own) any Traxxas batteries, or Traxxas connectors.
Awesome instructions. Mine just blew 3 out of 4 ports just yesterday. Definitely if the last one also goes I will try this/similar fix.
It's an easy fix if you take your time :)
Thanks for your video sir,
I have same problem with Port B has been connection break due to incorrect cable positif & negative while charger .
Please advice sir, so i can do same like on your video here ?
Yes its very likely that the same fix will work
In general i like your videos but if i'm not wrong this is 230V/115V PSU (you maybe shouldn't animate people to put their fingers on this, or at least put in a big blinky disclaimer) in it and you definitely loose the port protection. I would highly recommend to replace with (maybe slightly higher rated) fuses.
There's no danger of the high voltage side your not touching any of it just the low voltage side and many of the chargers out there have no fuse at all on the low voltage rails
@@WTFRCCars ~6:40 you had it in your fingers ;-) However, i would at least warn people to take care. The capacitor can be charged and that hurts when discharged on your fingers, believe me xD. Yeah, many don't have any fuses, but imho they should be there. But would be much nicer when they are changeable without opening the case.
Whether it is a construction error or why it would result in the problem but would be interesting to explore. What did you say they are rated for?
@HW-Origin the ones fitted are 20amp ? Or marked as 20amp and I do tell people to watch the cap but these are drained down they have a resistor to drain them so little chance or a zap but still best keep ya fingers off them :)
The fuses are labeled as 20A on my two chargers. But the bigger problem is when you connect a battery to port A while it is in DC output mode, in case you forget to exit this mode. It will blow the FETs on this port. The bad thing is it will short the DC power input on the main board rendering the whole unit non-functional. It's a design flaw.
Yeh the only plus on these you can't leave it trying to charge as soon as you disconnect the battery charging stops and if you power it off it will never power on trying to charge but yeh not a great design on some of the chargers
@@WTFRCCars That's another flaw I haven't encountered. I replaced the main board on mine and you can get it for US$37 but the shipping for me was another $35 so that was about 1/2 the original cost. It happened 10 days into my owning it and Bangood wouldn't cover the cost. They said it was my fault. So be careful with Banggood and honoring warranty claims.
@klausmewes3622 yeh I've had good experience with AliExpress but not us d banggood much at all
That’s going to take away from some safety of using the charger.
If you dead short it then the solder or trace will still blow i've tried it on a good few of them its just a poor choice of e fuse that they have gone with :)
I don't have this charger (although, I do have a could of their B6Neo chargers...I hope they aren't prone to this problem), nor do I currently have any plans to get one (my current 'primary' charger is a Junsi iCharger 406 Duo)...but, this reminds me of a problem I had several years ago with a Traxxas EZ-Peak Dual charger (I can't remember if it was the 'Live', or standard).
The charger was barely 6 months old (literally, a week after the 6mo warranty expired). One day, I started charging two batteries, starting with the left side, followed a could minutes later with the right side. 1-2 minutes later, I heard a "pop", followed by smoke coming out the vents on the right side. 'Something' having to do with charging on the right side had blown. I don't know what, specifically, the cause was, but it seems it's possible that it was the internal fuse, exactly as your describing in this video.
On the 'plus' side, I contacted Traxxas, and, even though, technically, the warranty was expired, they sent me a replacement, and instructed me to dispose of the "defective" unit. Of course, it was less than two months later that I bought my first 3rd-party charger (HiTec X2 AC Plus Black Edition), and started switch all batteries away from Traxxas. Since then, I haven't used (nor do I own) any Traxxas batteries, or Traxxas connectors.
@ninthislandrc yeh there are a good number of chargers with the e fuse issue tbh