Thank you so much for your video. My chain was clicking for some reason and I didn't know why. Turned out it was Because, while cleaning it, I must have moved the limit screw. Your video and simple explaination saved my day. So thank you for that!
Thank you, this is very helpful. Brilliantly explained. I totally agree with other comments. Setting the limit screws before fitting the chain was new to me, and adjusting the jockey wheels height to the cassette. subscribed.
Another excellent video, thanks very much. Nice and clear, no messing around just straight to the point. Replaced my cables and got my rear derailleur running perfect thanks to this.
Thanks for your videos on the R8000 rear and front - I found them very helpful. I have had some trouble with a noisy rear mech which I am struggling to cure. I have the dealer manual and followed the set up front and rear step by step but the rear is still a bit noisy. Set up is 50/34 and 11/32 with medium cage and Shimano chain. New Giant TCR frame (I haven't checked the rear hanger yet). I bought the special rear outer and kept the original barrel adjuster which actually works fine with the housing and alloy ferrule. I avoid cross chaining but find the rear noisy running 50 to the 22t (20 is fine, 22 is noisy and I would normally avoid the 25,28,32 but they are also noisy). Also at the top end, 50 to 13t and 12t makes the chain "rumble" which i can feel through the cranks (bike on a stand). Its like the chain is resonating as it comes off the bottom jockey wheel. Shifting is good and the chain is not interfering with sprockets - just noisy running. Any ideas? I could probably take a link out of the chain - would this make a difference?
Hi. Did you find the reason of the noisy running? I'm facing the same problem with a complete r8000 groupset. I found in another video about r8050 that replacing the chain with a KMC one solved or, at least, reduced the noise. I'm about to try it, because a did everything, even changing the chain line.
Definitely get your hanger alignment checked. R8000 is sensitive to this. The upper wheel has deeper cogs now and it’s the guide/shift pulley, whereas before it wasn’t (remember how on the old 10s the upper wheel had all that side to side play?, now it doesn’t) Once I got my own alignment gauge and corrected everything, it was much easier to adjust and less noise. Previous to this the bike shop always said it was fine, and I lived with shifting trouble for years on my old 10 speed system. Don’t trust the bike shop, get your own alignment gauge and learn how to check it yourself.
You hands down have the best videos for installing components. I am just finishing up building a 1988 road bike frame with the Tiagra 4700 group set. Just wanted to let you know that your style and the way that you film installations are so easy to understand and you are by far the best. Thank you for making all the helpful videos!
Really great videos that you are making. I have learned a lot. Honestly I have no idea why people do thumbs down on this type of videos with clear guidance and informative content. Maybe some people do not understand your accent? Best regards, keep it up.
Really great and straightforward tutorial. Appreciate you putting this together. I had originally watched this when I changed my RD. Today, I changed out my RD cable and it works great now., and again referred to your video to remind me. There was one part that you jumped through when putting the cable back in the RD, but I was able to figure it out. (Should have paid better attention when I pulled it out). Also, the tip about pulling out some links was good. Crisper shifts. Just need to make sure I don’t go big big or I’ll screw my RD.
He’s incorrect on that tip. You don’t ‘pull some links out’ just because you change derailleurs. Chain length is set using a procedure based on your big ring and biggest cassette cog (park tool has a good video on it). It’s got nothing to do with long or short cage (as long as the cassette you’re using is within the approved list for that derailleur).
@@GNX157 yeah, you’re right. I did find that the RD will bind up on the 50 chainring 34 cog with the chain this length. But before I had it with the extra 2 and it would be extremely sloppy at the 34 ring 11 cog. (Yup I know cross chain is bad). The drivetrain feels a little better now overall, but I need to be mindful. I kind of wish it was like my bike with the DI2 in that I can program it to not let me go to that combo, so I just need to remember. I’ll take a look at the park tool vid as well.
@@CyclingDad It is a GS derailleur? Is that specced to handle a 34 cog? When you watch the park tool video keep special attention to how a half link situation is handled when using a master link. It will have you add a half link if two inner plates aren’t the end result. Also setting your B screw again after the new chain length is chosen and installed. The b screw will also cause chain length fluctuations depending on how far that upper wheel is from the cassette cogs.
@@GNX157 yup, it’s a GS. I swapped to it from my short 6800 when going up to the 34. I’ve adjusted the b screw but will double check. Also need to look at the half link you’re noting. Appreciate the insight!
@@CyclingDad yea the half thing is for when you do the measurement and add the two links, if you’re planning to use a master link and the measurement lands you on an inner and outer to be joined (using a pin), but you’re going to use a master, you add a half link more to measurement so you have two inner plates to join using the master. That park tool video will help it make sense when he reaches that clarification.
Seriously good, and very helpful, many thanks. You have a great way of explaining and showing everything in the detail that's needed for this kind of quality groupset, and adding in a lot of other essential information as well as you go. Nice one.
I find this derailleur a piece of crap and a step backwards from the previous model. The cable wants to get into the spokes unless trimmed super short. It's much less mechanic friendly in terms of access to the pinch bolt. Thanks for your great tutorials.
I was wondering how do I know the RD is fitted correctly? I know on Ultegra 6800 the b-screw needs to be on the top of the hanger notch. But I'm a bit confused with RD 8000 since the alignment to install the RD to the hanger doesn't use the b-screw instead it uses two tab.. Does the bottom tab needs to sit on the hanger notch or the hanger notch needs to sit between those two tabs?
9:55 Thx, was looking for an image how the derailleur should be aligned under cassette. My just set itself on a hanger, the way guide pulley ended up way too far forward, making entire system look stupid and don't work as expected.
Hi. Thumbs up! Thanks for this essential video! I did not understand the purpose of this little cable wrapped around the shifter cable sheath. Does it have anything to do with the derailleur? Thanks. Rudy
Is that 'b-link' supposed to be removed? your other derailleur didn't have one. I think on my bike I should of removed it as it does seem to stick out the back a bit
Hello sir! just wanted to know if ultegra 6800 sti will work with ultegra r8000 rd medium cage? i switched to a 105 r7000 cogs and chain and i think that's the reason why my 6800 rd (short cage is having an issue) thinking of changing it to a medium cage r8000 rd. thanks for your input and more power to your channel!
Looking at the 11:30 and 14:50 mark I don't get the shift all the way up to the lowest cog in back? Can any commenters here give me some tips? The low and high adjustment do sit even with the low and high cogs. I can press the derailleur all the way up but the shifter stops and the next to largest low cog.
Nice video. BTW I was refurbishing my R6800 mech and trying to get the jockey wheels back together. Do you know if the 10.5 pulley bolt goes at the top (guide) or bottom of the cage? There's a 10.5 and 12.5 but I don't know which is top and bottom. My shifting is not as it should be. Thanks
Great video. My new bike came with R8000 and it has never felt anything special. Ive just reset all components after this demonstration and i have slight improvements. Any idea why though on FD low / RD high and visa versa (not cross chaining) i still cant get a clean run without the chain hitting the FD 😢
Kevin you should be able to get a clean chain run with the FD on the inner ring and the rear on the largest sprocket, but when on the front outer chainring and the smallest rear sprocket you will find that the chain is very close if not touching the inner plastic wear plate on the FD cage.
Free To Cycle appreciate the response, i can almost get that from FD inner and rear outer. But seems near impossible to get clean run both .... so im happy with your advice 👍🏻
If everything else is working, check your derailleur hanger alignment and your high limit screw. If you end up re bending the hanger, you’ve got to start your set up from the beginning again (set high and low limit screws etc), don’t just re index.
They say the barrel adjuster barrel has to be pulled back before adjusting. Still mine does nothing. There is a plastic pin on the barrel but not sure what that even does. I'm going to put on an older design barrel adjuster so I can actually use it. How this current design made it on the 8000 derailleur makes me wonder what's going on at Shimano?
I found that you need decent light to see the inner barrel, to see whether it is rotating. Pull up on the outer, plastic adjuster and it should grab the splines of the inner barrel allowing the inner to turn when turning the outer.
When you're about to turn the barrel adjuster, push the derailleur inboard to take away the tension on the cable. Otherwise the tension on the cable is too much for the flimsy outer plastic casing to grip the inner adjuster. Just give your barrel a turn then leave go of the mech so it returns to its natural position then check to see if the adjustment has worked. Repeat and bob's your uncle.
I've never had a problem with the adjuster not working on any new series Shimano derailleur, if you do you could always fit an inline barrel adjuster near the handlebars.
Yeah, that adjuster is horrible, difficult to grip and really tight. I know the SIS adjustment procedure has changed slightly but it's really tough to get enough tension on the cable to get it up to the big cog. Bring back the more knurled version from the previous series. This certainly isn't going to be one you'll enjoy adjusting on a cold Tuesday night in Stoke.
Free To Cycle ive just installed a new r8000 groupset and i find the rear derailler shifting not smooth; ive check all routing and there was no tight corners; any advise?
Ive just got a new bike with 8000 Ultegra and had loads of set up problems. The rear derailier cable was touching the spokes on my first ride and both the RD AND FD were not set up correctly. Incorrect cable tension on the FD with no top end trim and indexing out on RD. Sorted all problems out but can't believe a bike shop who sell on themselves be of the 'high end' let a bike out the door like that. IMO the 6800 was so much better than the 8000. I've sworn by Ultegra in the past but the new Barrell Adjuster on the RD is terrible. Why on earth didn't they stick with the old type? The FD on 8000 is better and easier to set up but the Barrell Adjuster seems to be a cheap and downgraded option. I now have a huge blister on my finger from trying to adjust the Barrell Adjuster last night over a 2 hour period but it just spins with no adjustment possible.. And yes I realise it needs to be pulled up to engage prior to turning. In the end I had to opt to fine tune the indexing by manually tensioning the cable at the pinch bolt. Out of curiosity will a Barrell Adjuster from a 6800 fit the 8000?
triode2a3 I purchased the old style 6800 barrel adjuster off eBay for £7 and now adjusts easily and perfectly! Definitely the way to go god knows why they decided to fit that terrible barrel adjuster to their new groupset!
Notice the new 105 adjuster looks better than the ultegra. Currently it's working ok but may give your fix a go. Mixed reports out there, phoned a couple of service centres one guy immediately said he had a problem but others said no issues. I've asked them to raise it with Shimano. Thanks.
Yea that’s pretty common on newer shadow design systems. Part of what makes it work now is both jockey wheels are fixed in the cage. It used to be the lower wheel was fixed and did the actual shifting, and the upper was allowed to float side to side, but not any more. Now that upper wheel is much more in charge of moving the chain and keeping it precisely in position.
Also, if you’re upper wheel is far away (down) from the biggest cog when in that cog, it could be either your B screw is not adjusted and/or your chain is a link or two too long. Set the chain length per Shimano spec (park tool has a correct video), then adjust the B screw per specs. As an aside, I had a similar issue on a brand new bike. Jockey wheel was far away and also B screw was ran all the way in. The chain ended up being two links too long and they used the B screw to take up the slack. Once everything was corrected the upper wheel was close as called for and the b screw was about 5 turns out from all the way in.
I find that the barrel adjuster is pretty useless - it just spins and doesn't alter anything. I have to release the cable , turn the adjuster then reconnect the cable to get any adjustment. Poor design
Don't release the cable. When you're about to turn the barrel adjuster, push the derailleur inboard to take away the tension on the cable. Otherwise the tension on the cable is too much for the flimsy outer plastic casing to grip the inner adjuster. Just give your barrel a turn then leave go of the mech so it returns to its natural position then check to see if the adjustment has worked. Repeat and bob's your uncle.
It's supposed to be instructional, but the guy uses the word "OBVIOUSLY" a hundred times in reference to the very things he should be explaining. This is typical of videos made by mechanics, who can no longer remember what it is they even know, so accustomed are they to just "doing stuff" by memory.
The shadow style with the newer upper guide wheel is very sensitive. I’d suggest getting the derailleur hanger checked. Mine was giving me fits and after buying my own hanger alignment tool, I saw for myself how it was bent and in which direction (in at the front and in at the bottom. Once I got it corrected, the derailleur was much easier to set up and find the (sweet spot) correct setting.
5 years from this video and I'm just starting a new build. Your front and rear mech videos have been extremely useful. Well done and many thanks.
U are the best no nonsense instructor in the history of the world.
This guy is the best mechanic on TH-cam
you're a proper legend. Thanks for being here and so helpful!
Thank you so much for your video. My chain was clicking for some reason and I didn't know why. Turned out it was Because, while cleaning it, I must have moved the limit screw. Your video and simple explaination saved my day. So thank you for that!
Found the info useful. It was a surprise to find the chain slightly too long with this new derailleur.
The real win here is setting limit screws without the chain on it. Really simplifies the whole process. Good stuff. Thanks, mate!
Yeah, it's so much safer that way, no risk of chucking the chain into the spokes/dropout.
Thanks!
Yes, nice one for me. This is my next upgrade, just waiting on the parts now. thanks again.
Thank you, this is very helpful. Brilliantly explained. I totally agree with other comments. Setting the limit screws before fitting the chain was new to me, and adjusting the jockey wheels height to the cassette. subscribed.
Hi, thanks a lot for your tutorials on the R8000 components, my bike has been pimped and ready to ride! Gratitude from Belgium!
Brilliant! Easy to follow as was your tutorial for installing the FD8000. Thanks Mate!
Great man learn quite a lot from him with this new ultegra 8000
Another excellent video, thanks very much. Nice and clear, no messing around just straight to the point. Replaced my cables and got my rear derailleur running perfect thanks to this.
Very well explained! Not only did you teach how to adjust the derailleur but you explained how it works. Great video. Thanks for your help.
Great Video. Appreciate the detail you put in
Thanks for your videos on the R8000 rear and front - I found them very helpful. I have had some trouble with a noisy rear mech which I am struggling to cure. I have the dealer manual and followed the set up front and rear step by step but the rear is still a bit noisy. Set up is 50/34 and 11/32 with medium cage and Shimano chain. New Giant TCR frame (I haven't checked the rear hanger yet). I bought the special rear outer and kept the original barrel adjuster which actually works fine with the housing and alloy ferrule. I avoid cross chaining but find the rear noisy running 50 to the 22t (20 is fine, 22 is noisy and I would normally avoid the 25,28,32 but they are also noisy). Also at the top end, 50 to 13t and 12t makes the chain "rumble" which i can feel through the cranks (bike on a stand). Its like the chain is resonating as it comes off the bottom jockey wheel. Shifting is good and the chain is not interfering with sprockets - just noisy running. Any ideas? I could probably take a link out of the chain - would this make a difference?
Hi. Did you find the reason of the noisy running? I'm facing the same problem with a complete r8000 groupset. I found in another video about r8050 that replacing the chain with a KMC one solved or, at least, reduced the noise. I'm about to try it, because a did everything, even changing the chain line.
Definitely get your hanger alignment checked. R8000 is sensitive to this. The upper wheel has deeper cogs now and it’s the guide/shift pulley, whereas before it wasn’t (remember how on the old 10s the upper wheel had all that side to side play?, now it doesn’t) Once I got my own alignment gauge and corrected everything, it was much easier to adjust and less noise. Previous to this the bike shop always said it was fine, and I lived with shifting trouble for years on my old 10 speed system. Don’t trust the bike shop, get your own alignment gauge and learn how to check it yourself.
@@MarceloMoreiraXavier Having the same issues.
You hands down have the best videos for installing components. I am just finishing up building a 1988 road bike frame with the Tiagra 4700 group set. Just wanted to let you know that your style and the way that you film installations are so easy to understand and you are by far the best. Thank you for making all the helpful videos!
Love your videos, no 10-15min of bullshit and click this or that link before actually starting any instructions, like most other cycling channels
Really great videos that you are making. I have learned a lot. Honestly I have no idea why people do thumbs down on this type of videos with clear guidance and informative content. Maybe some people do not understand your accent?
Best regards, keep it up.
Excellent video, help me sort out my R8000 shifting problem! Keep up the good work. 👍
Your videos have saved me so many times! Thanks!
Really great and straightforward tutorial. Appreciate you putting this together. I had originally watched this when I changed my RD. Today, I changed out my RD cable and it works great now., and again referred to your video to remind me. There was one part that you jumped through when putting the cable back in the RD, but I was able to figure it out. (Should have paid better attention when I pulled it out). Also, the tip about pulling out some links was good. Crisper shifts. Just need to make sure I don’t go big big or I’ll screw my RD.
He’s incorrect on that tip. You don’t ‘pull some links out’ just because you change derailleurs. Chain length is set using a procedure based on your big ring and biggest cassette cog (park tool has a good video on it). It’s got nothing to do with long or short cage (as long as the cassette you’re using is within the approved list for that derailleur).
@@GNX157 yeah, you’re right. I did find that the RD will bind up on the 50 chainring 34 cog with the chain this length. But before I had it with the extra 2 and it would be extremely sloppy at the 34 ring 11 cog. (Yup I know cross chain is bad). The drivetrain feels a little better now overall, but I need to be mindful. I kind of wish it was like my bike with the DI2 in that I can program it to not let me go to that combo, so I just need to remember. I’ll take a look at the park tool vid as well.
@@CyclingDad It is a GS derailleur? Is that specced to handle a 34 cog? When you watch the park tool video keep special attention to how a half link situation is handled when using a master link. It will have you add a half link if two inner plates aren’t the end result. Also setting your B screw again after the new chain length is chosen and installed. The b screw will also cause chain length fluctuations depending on how far that upper wheel is from the cassette cogs.
@@GNX157 yup, it’s a GS. I swapped to it from my short 6800 when going up to the 34. I’ve adjusted the b screw but will double check. Also need to look at the half link you’re noting. Appreciate the insight!
@@CyclingDad yea the half thing is for when you do the measurement and add the two links, if you’re planning to use a master link and the measurement lands you on an inner and outer to be joined (using a pin), but you’re going to use a master, you add a half link more to measurement so you have two inner plates to join using the master. That park tool video will help it make sense when he reaches that clarification.
Excellent video with lots of patient explanations. Incredibly helpful for a novice like me.
Been shifting for ages like crap until i realised my chain was too long!!!! THANKS.
Excellent walkthrough! Thank you!
Excellent ... well done with very accurate instructions. THANKS.
Legend, Keep up good work & videos 👍
Thanks for this great video!
That was a very useful video. My ultegra 6800 needs a new rear derailleur. I didn't know about the shorter chain length ;)
Just wanted to say thanks for this very useful video and all the pragmatic advice! Cheers mate!
No worries! Glad you found it helpful👍
thanks so much mate, gem of a video these are. life saver
Seriously good, and very helpful, many thanks. You have a great way of explaining and showing everything in the detail that's needed for this kind of quality groupset, and adding in a lot of other essential information as well as you go. Nice one.
Great content, I was struggling before watching this and the front mech one, big thanks
Paul glad you found the videos helpful to your build.
Crazy helpful, thanks!
Great work
Canada chiming in here. This is how it's done
Subbed. Thanks alot mate - really helped me.
I find this derailleur a piece of crap and a step backwards from the previous model. The cable wants to get into the spokes unless trimmed super short. It's much less mechanic friendly in terms of access to the pinch bolt. Thanks for your great tutorials.
I was wondering how do I know the RD is fitted correctly? I know on Ultegra 6800 the b-screw needs to be on the top of the hanger notch. But I'm a bit confused with RD 8000 since the alignment to install the RD to the hanger doesn't use the b-screw instead it uses two tab.. Does the bottom tab needs to sit on the hanger notch or the hanger notch needs to sit between those two tabs?
The bottom tab touches the hanger.
This is exactly what I came here to find out. 👍
Exactly why i came here, but why are there 2 notches on the hanger if you just need to use the bottom to sit on the hanger?
Thank you sir
9:55 Thx, was looking for an image how the derailleur should be aligned under cassette. My just set itself on a hanger, the way guide pulley ended up way too far forward, making entire system look stupid and don't work as expected.
Your a legend. Thanks mate!
👍
your my main man.
Thank You for your video it was very helpful.
Found this really helpful
Thanks, helpful for my upgrade
Thanx! Still good after all these years...
Very helpful thanks Bud
Thank you lots for the tutorial!
Thanks,much appreciated
Thanks mate!
Thanks a lot - this saved me a trip down to the LBS
Hi. Thumbs up! Thanks for this essential video! I did not understand the purpose of this little cable wrapped around the shifter cable sheath. Does it have anything to do with the derailleur? Thanks. Rudy
Is that 'b-link' supposed to be removed? your other derailleur didn't have one. I think on my bike I should of removed it as it does seem to stick out the back a bit
Hello sir! just wanted to know if ultegra 6800 sti will work with ultegra r8000 rd medium cage? i switched to a 105 r7000 cogs and chain and i think that's the reason why my 6800 rd (short cage is having an issue) thinking of changing it to a medium cage r8000 rd. thanks for your input and more power to your channel!
Yes they are compatible!
Nice one dude!
Looking at the 11:30 and 14:50 mark I don't get the shift all the way up to the lowest cog in back? Can any commenters here give me some tips? The low and high adjustment do sit even with the low and high cogs. I can press the derailleur all the way up but the shifter stops and the next to largest low cog.
Where are you getting the new outer cable housing from if it doesn't come with the derailleur?
thanks buddy
👍
very helpful
Nice video. BTW I was refurbishing my R6800 mech and trying to get the jockey wheels back together. Do you know if the 10.5 pulley bolt goes at the top (guide) or bottom of the cage? There's a 10.5 and 12.5 but I don't know which is top and bottom. My shifting is not as it should be. Thanks
The 10.5 goes in the top jockey wheel.
@@FreeToCycle Awesome, thanks!
Great video. My new bike came with R8000 and it has never felt anything special. Ive just reset all components after this demonstration and i have slight improvements. Any idea why though on FD low / RD high and visa versa (not cross chaining) i still cant get a clean run without the chain hitting the FD 😢
Kevin you should be able to get a clean chain run with the FD on the inner ring and the rear on the largest sprocket, but when on the front outer chainring and the smallest rear sprocket you will find that the chain is very close if not touching the inner plastic wear plate on the FD cage.
Free To Cycle appreciate the response, i can almost get that from FD inner and rear outer. But seems near impossible to get clean run both .... so im happy with your advice 👍🏻
Im installing for the first time an 11-32 and can't get past to the last 3 sprockets what am I doing wrong?
I have the same issue?
Big cassettes only work with long-cage derailleurs. Your derailleur may be too short to fit the cassette
I’m having a little trouble getting enough tension into a new cable to pop it up into the biggest cog at the rear, anyone have any tips?
If everything else is working, check your derailleur hanger alignment and your high limit screw. If you end up re bending the hanger, you’ve got to start your set up from the beginning again (set high and low limit screws etc), don’t just re index.
@@GNX157 Thanks mate, I think I’ll try a new rear mech hanger as the old one seems a little bit “soft”.
Can anyone tell me why the rear derailleur hanger mount has two stops? If you use the higher stop it makes the derailleur too high. What's it for?
They say the barrel adjuster barrel has to be pulled back before adjusting. Still mine does nothing. There is a plastic pin on the barrel but not sure what that even does. I'm going to put on an older design barrel adjuster so I can actually use it. How this current design made it on the 8000 derailleur makes me wonder what's going on at Shimano?
Decent
I watched to see how he adjusted the barrel adjuster. Mine just spins, it doesn't "push out" more cable housing.
Larry Lem mine too. Have you managed a fix?
I found that you need decent light to see the inner barrel, to see whether it is rotating. Pull up on the outer, plastic adjuster and it should grab the splines of the inner barrel allowing the inner to turn when turning the outer.
When you're about to turn the barrel adjuster, push the derailleur inboard to take away the tension on the cable. Otherwise the tension on the cable is too much for the flimsy outer plastic casing to grip the inner adjuster. Just give your barrel a turn then leave go of the mech so it returns to its natural position then check to see if the adjustment has worked. Repeat and bob's your uncle.
Can you mix and match shimano 105 R7000 shifter leavers with ultegra R8000 rear derailleur 11sp?
Yes you can mix and match components without any issues.
Was it a small RD or Medium RD ?
It refers to the length of the derailleur cage!
Just got a new sub
Thanks👍
Medium cage derailleur?
Yes Medium cage GS.
Can 105 5800 use ultegra 8000 pulley ?
do you think 5800 shifters will work with r8000 rear derailleur?
The bike used in the video had 105 5800 shifters fitted.
Free To Cycle wow 😮 awesome bro!!! Thank you so much 😊 lol I should have watch your vid 30 more secs lol sorry it was late thank you for sharing
The biggest challenge for this series is indexing it with a total crap of a barrel adjuster. I wish you have shown it in the video how you did it.
I've never had a problem with the adjuster not working on any new series Shimano derailleur, if you do you could always fit an inline barrel adjuster near the handlebars.
Yeah, that adjuster is horrible, difficult to grip and really tight. I know the SIS adjustment procedure has changed slightly but it's really tough to get enough tension on the cable to get it up to the big cog. Bring back the more knurled version from the previous series. This certainly isn't going to be one you'll enjoy adjusting on a cold Tuesday night in Stoke.
Hi do you grease your cables?
No, never grease any inner cables.
Free To Cycle ive just installed a new r8000 groupset and i find the rear derailler shifting not smooth; ive check all routing and there was no tight corners; any advise?
nice component👍
Ive just got a new bike with 8000 Ultegra and had loads of set up problems. The rear derailier cable was touching the spokes on my first ride and both the RD AND FD were not set up correctly. Incorrect cable tension on the FD with no top end trim and indexing out on RD. Sorted all problems out but can't believe a bike shop who sell on themselves be of the 'high end' let a bike out the door like that. IMO the 6800 was so much better than the 8000. I've sworn by Ultegra in the past but the new Barrell Adjuster on the RD is terrible. Why on earth didn't they stick with the old type? The FD on 8000 is better and easier to set up but the Barrell Adjuster seems to be a cheap and downgraded option. I now have a huge blister on my finger from trying to adjust the Barrell Adjuster last night over a 2 hour period but it just spins with no adjustment possible.. And yes I realise it needs to be pulled up to engage prior to turning. In the end I had to opt to fine tune the indexing by manually tensioning the cable at the pinch bolt. Out of curiosity will a Barrell Adjuster from a 6800 fit the 8000?
Scuba Collie had same issues with barrel... Spinning plastic bit for a while before I realised I was doing nothing!
triode2a3 I purchased the old style 6800 barrel adjuster off eBay for £7 and now adjusts easily and perfectly! Definitely the way to go god knows why they decided to fit that terrible barrel adjuster to their new groupset!
Notice the new 105 adjuster looks better than the ultegra. Currently it's working ok but may give your fix a go. Mixed reports out there, phoned a couple of service centres one guy immediately said he had a problem but others said no issues. I've asked them to raise it with Shimano. Thanks.
My Ultegra barrel adjuster sucks compared to Dura ace and 105. Am I the only one to see this?
No they definitely suck!😆
the top jockey wheel is very far away from the cassette with this new design
Yea that’s pretty common on newer shadow design systems. Part of what makes it work now is both jockey wheels are fixed in the cage. It used to be the lower wheel was fixed and did the actual shifting, and the upper was allowed to float side to side, but not any more. Now that upper wheel is much more in charge of moving the chain and keeping it precisely in position.
Also, if you’re upper wheel is far away (down) from the biggest cog when in that cog, it could be either your B screw is not adjusted and/or your chain is a link or two too long. Set the chain length per Shimano spec (park tool has a correct video), then adjust the B screw per specs. As an aside, I had a similar issue on a brand new bike. Jockey wheel was far away and also B screw was ran all the way in. The chain ended up being two links too long and they used the B screw to take up the slack. Once everything was corrected the upper wheel was close as called for and the b screw was about 5 turns out from all the way in.
I find that the barrel adjuster is pretty useless - it just spins and doesn't alter anything. I have to release the cable , turn the adjuster then reconnect the cable to get any adjustment. Poor design
I've had same issue. Might have to put an in line adjuster to work round it.
Free To Cycle any tips on this? Just won't engage screw
Don't release the cable. When you're about to turn the barrel adjuster, push the derailleur inboard to take away the tension on the cable. Otherwise the tension on the cable is too much for the flimsy outer plastic casing to grip the inner adjuster. Just give your barrel a turn then leave go of the mech so it returns to its natural position then check to see if the adjustment has worked. Repeat and bob's your uncle.
Your correct just push derailleur inward to release tension. It really is a no brainer
I put a 6500 barrel adjuster on mine. I agree the 8000 adjuster is crap.
It's supposed to be instructional, but the guy uses the word "OBVIOUSLY" a hundred times in reference to the very things he should be explaining. This is typical of videos made by mechanics, who can no longer remember what it is they even know, so accustomed are they to just "doing stuff" by memory.
going back to Campagnolo. this RD is impossible to adjust properly. a load of SHITmano
The shadow style with the newer upper guide wheel is very sensitive. I’d suggest getting the derailleur hanger checked. Mine was giving me fits and after buying my own hanger alignment tool, I saw for myself how it was bent and in which direction (in at the front and in at the bottom. Once I got it corrected, the derailleur was much easier to set up and find the (sweet spot) correct setting.
Thank you for the video. I went from 6800 to this 8000 and also found the chain too long oo removed 2 links