the deformation of the parent metal will show up when welding. now, if you did find a sheet and cut out a circle, you would be able to stitch-weld around, switching from one of 4 welding areas to work on to reduce the deflection/deformation due to heat. i would also run that using TIG welding method to reduce the heat input as much as you can.
From the AMI website: monel is NOT to be used as cladding over steel while in contact with seawater. You have not identified the material of the ring that you show in this video. Hobart website discusses using a 312 SS for first pass with a 309L SS for second pass. This method takes somewhat into account for the admixture dilution with the base steel which, of course, results in higher C in the SS cladding. 304 SS corrosion resistance is prefered for fasteners, fittings, and hatch and port landings while in contact with seawater and carbon steel. Usually 304 SS is the material for the ring which is welded directly to the trunk/hull. By the way, a fly cut O ring groove in the hatch facing surface would work very well to seal and retain the ring. A global or precision orbital wire feed would make the work much easier, as well. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the info, the ring is 516-70 and I was planning SS overlay. I had a sub with Monel and is actually common on older subs including Perry subs. The hatch has an o-ring that seals to the land ring. I think with the risk of warpage, I will electro plate the ring.
You cannot weld dissimilar metals. ie mild steel and stainless steel. What you can do is strip the paint and have the part plated. Possibly with nickel, chrome, zinc, etc. Or hot dip galvanized. A 2 part epoxy coating would be the most diy friendly.
Hi Hank. I personally wouldnt do this. Not saying I'm right but I think it would almost certainly distort the machined shape on the other side. I'd just repaint it. Keep it simple.
Aside from the difficulty of the weld as others have mentioned, a stainless weld wouldn't nessicarily be that corrosion resistant thanks to potential for galvanic corrosion, at least not enough for a marine application. Acid passivation could help, but unfortunately, I don't know enough to recommend anything specific. I second the electroplating recommendations people have made. Chromium or nickel would be ideal for that route. I know people use zinc for marine applications but that's primarily as a sacrificial anode. Otherwise, I would seek out a newer marine epoxy coating, ideally an antimicrobial one. I think there's ones specifically made for submarines, but I don't know if that's something that is sold to those outside of the millitary.
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
the deformation of the parent metal will show up when welding. now, if you did find a sheet and cut out a circle, you would be able to stitch-weld around, switching from one of 4 welding areas to work on to reduce the deflection/deformation due to heat. i would also run that using TIG welding method to reduce the heat input as much as you can.
Thank you, I think with the risks involved, I will electro plate with Nickel.
From the AMI website: monel is NOT to be used as cladding over steel while in contact with seawater. You have not identified the material of the ring that you show in this video. Hobart website discusses using a 312 SS for first pass with a 309L SS for second pass. This method takes somewhat into account for the admixture dilution with the base steel which, of course, results in higher C in the SS cladding. 304 SS corrosion resistance is prefered for fasteners, fittings, and hatch and port landings while in contact with seawater and carbon steel. Usually 304 SS is the material for the ring which is welded directly to the trunk/hull. By the way, a fly cut O ring groove in the hatch facing surface would work very well to seal and retain the ring. A global or precision orbital wire feed would make the work much easier, as well. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the info, the ring is 516-70 and I was planning SS overlay. I had a sub with Monel and is actually common on older subs including Perry subs. The hatch has an o-ring that seals to the land ring. I think with the risk of warpage, I will electro plate the ring.
This guys info is spot on. @@HankPronk
What about High velocity thermal sprayed stainless steel coating?
You cannot weld dissimilar metals. ie mild steel and stainless steel. What you can do is strip the paint and have the part plated. Possibly with nickel, chrome, zinc, etc. Or hot dip galvanized. A 2 part epoxy coating would be the most diy friendly.
I have decided to electroplate the part given the risk of ruining the part.
Hi Hank. I personally wouldnt do this. Not saying I'm right but I think it would almost certainly distort the machined shape on the other side. I'd just repaint it. Keep it simple.
Gonna try electro plating, even just for fun. I was expecting it to warp and re-machine, but the risk is too high I could ruin the part.
It will never stay round. I would not attempt it myself..
I am starting to think this is a bad idea. Maybe electroplating is the way to go.
Aside from the difficulty of the weld as others have mentioned, a stainless weld wouldn't nessicarily be that corrosion resistant thanks to potential for galvanic corrosion, at least not enough for a marine application. Acid passivation could help, but unfortunately, I don't know enough to recommend anything specific.
I second the electroplating recommendations people have made. Chromium or nickel would be ideal for that route. I know people use zinc for marine applications but that's primarily as a sacrificial anode.
Otherwise, I would seek out a newer marine epoxy coating, ideally an antimicrobial one. I think there's ones specifically made for submarines, but I don't know if that's something that is sold to those outside of the millitary.
I agree, electroplating sounds like the safe bet.
Strip it, powder coat it.
That's an idea
Have you considered electroplating?
@@MedicDillahunty funny you mention that. I am researching it now and it looks like a nice safe solution