I have to say, there really are no weaknesses. I recently purchased one for a hell of a price and one call to team associated and they sent me a SERVICE PACK!!! New arms /buckles made from stronger plastics. Very easy. Serious BASHER! THIS THINGS A BEAST...👍 Great informative vid man. Keep up the great work.
Ok this new wave of people adding holes to the pistons is great. BUT a huge either forgotten or not known information is you shouldn’t just drill the holes and install. No matter what the viscosity of the fluid is it needs a smooth path way of resistance either on up compression or unloading. What I’ve done ever since racing is after you drill the holes is to put a chamfer on the holes. Both top and bottom. Now considering this is just a basher car as opposed to a race rig both will benefit from this. Remember to just put a small amount of chamfer I use my fingers to turn the bit. Remember the saying “slow is smooth , smooth is fast “. A liquid can not be compressed so the smooth transition through the waypoint allows the fluid to not block the way but allows for a smooth transition.
Hey man. Thanks for the tips. Did you replace all three sets of turnbuckles? I'm going to order them now, and I just want to make sure I have the right sizes. What size did you use for the steering links?
Thanks for the helpful tips. I can see this truck in my bash arsenal...those annoying axle caps are probably there as a feeble attempt to keep dirt out of axle. Should have just included a closed face design hex imo. I would just replace with a set of tekno or similar hex nuts and call it a day.
Nice tips , im with you on running thinner diff oils , guys are in wide open areas hitting ramps with no sharp turning .today we lucky to have any diff fluids lol 😆
Can you tell me the exact programmer you use on this video. I bought a hobby wing LED ver 2 and it looks almost identical to yours but does not work on my MT8. Thanks for the savage manual tip which also gives you instructions on how to programme with a sequence of button pressing 😂
Hey razor I just found something interesting and would like your input on it. I just uploaded a video about The body mounts. I noticed when I was doing your rear shock piston mod that when any one of the alarms are fully compressed up. The upper link is hitting the body post. And I’m thinking on some of the bad landings where you’re putting a lot of pressure from the top of the vehicle down(like an upside down landing) Could be part of the reason we are bending and snapping those upper links. Just let me know what you think. And thanks for the shout out bro.
Awesome video bro. I’m definitely gonna do the piston mod. I haven’t had any issues with them yet. But it’s bound to happen when you send it. I’ve seen the bounce your talking about lol. I had my radio and receiver go out though. I thought it was the steering servo. But I was going to change the radio anyway. Thanks for the info.
I saw your video of you bashing this thing hard in one of your videos. I got one of these and love the thing, got my used but it fairly decent condition, the only problem I have is I ended up breaking one of my rear shocks and for the life of me cannot find a replacement. I have a shock on that but it is not strong enough for the car so it safe bad any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
The answer is yes, two sets are needed to replace both front and rear turnbuckles, and a different size is needed to replace the front steering arm turnbuckles.
My Hobbywing programmer isn’t working. HobbyWing Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box model. Just stays on “connecting to ESC” it’s plugged into fan port. Wires are in proper orientation.
That's done dependent on the programmable transmitter (reference the manual). If you changed the servo, then power it up before connecting the horn/linkage for it to initialize.
I have to say, there really are no weaknesses. I recently purchased one for a hell of a price and one call to team associated and they sent me a SERVICE PACK!!! New arms /buckles made from stronger plastics. Very easy. Serious BASHER! THIS THINGS A BEAST...👍 Great informative vid man. Keep up the great work.
Ok this new wave of people adding holes to the pistons is great. BUT a huge either forgotten or not known information is you shouldn’t just drill the holes and install. No matter what the viscosity of the fluid is it needs a smooth path way of resistance either on up compression or unloading. What I’ve done ever since racing is after you drill the holes is to put a chamfer on the holes. Both top and bottom. Now considering this is just a basher car as opposed to a race rig both will benefit from this. Remember to just put a small amount of chamfer I use my fingers to turn the bit. Remember the saying “slow is smooth , smooth is fast “. A liquid can not be compressed so the smooth transition through the waypoint allows the fluid to not block the way but allows for a smooth transition.
Just got mine reassembled with a warranty replacement steering rack. Snapped in half. She’s back in action now. Such a fun truck.
Hey man. Thanks for the tips. Did you replace all three sets of turnbuckles? I'm going to order them now, and I just want to make sure I have the right sizes. What size did you use for the steering links?
It’s in the description 👍. What’s up dude ?
As a long time user/racer of Team Associated products, I appreciate your reviews and tips on their vehicles. Considering this one for my basher.
Out of all the new trucks out in the past year this one seems the best value even with these few problems. The price and performance is great.
Thanks for the helpful tips. I can see this truck in my bash arsenal...those annoying axle caps are probably there as a feeble attempt to keep dirt out of axle. Should have just included a closed face design hex imo. I would just replace with a set of tekno or similar hex nuts and call it a day.
Great tips and some good along with the kaiju as you mentioned. Nice job
Thanks for the programming, was trying to figure out each one. 👍
Nice tips , im with you on running thinner diff oils , guys are in wide open areas hitting ramps with no sharp turning .today we lucky to have any diff fluids lol 😆
Can you tell me the exact programmer you use on this video. I bought a hobby wing LED ver 2 and it looks almost identical to yours but does not work on my MT8. Thanks for the savage manual tip which also gives you instructions on how to programme with a sequence of button pressing 😂
Great tips. Looking forward to your full review and then the MT8 is ‘Razor-ed’.
Hey razor I just found something interesting and would like your input on it. I just uploaded a video about The body mounts. I noticed when I was doing your rear shock piston mod that when any one of the alarms are fully compressed up. The upper link is hitting the body post. And I’m thinking on some of the bad landings where you’re putting a lot of pressure from the top of the vehicle down(like an upside down landing)
Could be part of the reason we are bending and snapping those upper links. Just let me know what you think. And thanks for the shout out bro.
Awesome video bro. I’m definitely gonna do the piston mod. I haven’t had any issues with them yet. But it’s bound to happen when you send it. I’ve seen the bounce your talking about lol. I had my radio and receiver go out though. I thought it was the steering servo. But I was going to change the radio anyway. Thanks for the info.
Great video, hopefully Associated do some optional pistons and stronger turnbuckles.
I saw your video of you bashing this thing hard in one of your videos. I got one of these and love the thing, got my used but it fairly decent condition, the only problem I have is I ended up breaking one of my rear shocks and for the life of me cannot find a replacement. I have a shock on that but it is not strong enough for the car so it safe bad any help would be greatly appreciated thank you.
You are just the best 👍👍👍
can we change steering voltage with this esc?
Are two sets of those turnbuckles needed (front/rear) or are just the front problematic?
The answer is yes, two sets are needed to replace both front and rear turnbuckles, and a different size is needed to replace the front steering arm turnbuckles.
Great info! 💪
My Hobbywing programmer isn’t working. HobbyWing Multifunction LCD Professional Program Box model. Just stays on “connecting to ESC” it’s plugged into fan port. Wires are in proper orientation.
I bought the EZ Run Max (Blue) Program Card linked in the video description and it works fine when connected to the stock ESC fan port.
Would you agree adding the kaiju sway bars?
only if you have problems with it rolling over
can you show us how to set our EndPoints on this? Please and Thankyou
That's done dependent on the programmable transmitter (reference the manual). If you changed the servo, then power it up before connecting the horn/linkage for it to initialize.
Good tips
Thanks for the good video I’m thinking of getting one when thay back in stock a very helpful video thank u for sharing check out my channel to bud 👍👍
Tip # 6 Only buy it if you rather work on some thing, rather than running it. It's as bad as ZD Racing.
Kaiju better