Hello Lucas..from centerville...I enjoyed the video..but I am still sat up like when I resigned my commission from Dam Neck.. I am still running Emerson fast maritime I still have the IR strobe on to the back so when we have a chopper up with flair he can track US I'm still running the same system which is the Insight Technology L3 Warrior system to ground panoramic night vision thank you I do enjoy the videos
“You’ve got 9 different guns, which are more or less crap, sell half of them and get some capabilities you wouldn’t normally have” Truer words haven’t been spoken, but geshhh that’s a hard message to pass on to family friends without coming off as arrogant or stuck up lol. I agree 100%.
@@TheInfantry98 IMO, everyone should have a .22lr pistol and rifle for cheap practice and training beginners. Then you should have a home defense weapon - either a shotgun or a assault rifle - and a pistol for concealed carry. That's the minimum and that is 4 firearms.
Ambient light awareness is big. When both eyes are adjusted to binos you can perceive it to be allot darker outside than it is and present a target. Can see them does not mean they can’t see you.
Night vision is probably "too expensive" to many people that can afford a lot of different kind of things because its like one thing, one single small unit that cost like a hell of a lot. That's why I feel like I never have money to get anything, but when I pay something on credit and pay it back in small amounts then I can magically afford it.
but you pay interest which means it cost you alot more. Im the type of person to look at total cost not momentary cost. rather be broke for a bit then be robbed in the long term
You shouldn't buy something like night vision with credit. Pay cash even if it takes longer. I feel you, it seems like a really really important item to have, but at the end of the day most of the time it'll be a cool toy in a way.
I don’t know anyone that actually has night vision and I know a lot of gun people. I wish there was a place you could go to look at some of this stuff and at least look through some. It’s a hard thing to spend so much money on when you’ve never even seen night vision in person. I can shoot machine guns anytime I want but don’t know anywhere I can try out some nvg’s.
@@jpk9171jpk Theres a place in Allentown that makes NVD. Might be able to do some detective work to see if they do demos. Or, if you play airsoft, big milsims that do night shenanigans rent NV. SO you dont have to buy your own. Its a good way to get some kind of experience.
Lucas botkins was never law enforcement or military yet he absolutely destroys almost everyone with knowledge and skill. The reality is he proves it doesn't matter. His character trumps every factor.
Solid advice, I've got a cheaper PVS-14 with a lower tier Gen 3 tube. I'll eventually get an upgrade but just having that alone is a game changer. I highly recommend if you can afford it get even a lower tier gen 3 unit from a reputable company like TNVC.
@@n0xxm3rcyxx heres the thing, when I upgrade I can keep my pvs14. It still has plenty of uses, it's small and handy to just throw in a pocket so it'll still probably be my go to for bringing along for outdoor activities where using night vision isn't the plan but might be fun or useful. It never hurts to cary a super power in your pocket.
if you are using this gear for the scenario that the 2A was established for using the IR lights and lasers will only give you away, remember who your proposed opponent is and what their gear is.
Lucas I love what you’re doing and I’ve been listening to y’all for years. I train hard and I own night vision. However, I feel like you’re missing the mark by telling people not to complain about the cost of night vision. Consumers will always complain about the high cost of products, especially products that everyone should have access to, and it is 100% within everyone’s right to do so. I have heard you yourself complain about the exorbitant costs of machine guns and the like that should be accessible to everyone. Then you tell people to just accept the high cost of nvgs. I absolutely get your argument and while I do like that you’re trying to teach people about budgeting, which is a must have skill (yes budgeting is a skill) for all of us who are into this stuff, people are totally within their rights to complain about the frankly ridiculous cost of night vision. Again, I’m not hating and I own 2 nvg setups, but you need to understand where people are coming from when they’re expressing their distaste about the cost of this stuff.
His complaint about machine guns is that the price is artificially increased because of the strict restrictions imposed by the government. A pre 86 transferable m16 lower is worth $15,000 in a private sale even though a physically identical ar15 lower without a 3rd hole drilled only costs about $60 because it’s not legal for more of full auto lowers to be manufactured and sold in the civilian market. The only difference is that one of them was manufactured before 1986 and has all the legally required permission slips from Uncle Sam to be sold as a machine gun. Without those laws, a full auto lower would only be worth $60. I’m sure something like a m249 saw would still cost a few thousand dollars as that is how much the semi auto versions cost anyways.
Being a US citizen and being able to buy the latest a greatest night vision because of it, is like being able to ring up Lockheed Martin and ordering the not-for-export F22 raptor and them actually delivering it to your house. It’s one of the last untouched rights we have, and if you can afford a few guns, you can afford it too. Which is pretty fuckin cool of a deal if you ask me. Even if it’s fairly expensive. But really it’s not for what it is, and there’s multiple price points for multiple budgets.
Gen 3 pvs 14s start at $2k and go to $5k. What’s a must have and what is nice to have but not needed? From what I can tell there are 4 major differences green vs white , autogated vs non , filmed vs filmless and the quality of the tubes. And whats better a $3500 pvs-14 white p, autogated, quality tube or $5000 green ,non autogated, low quality dual tubes?
Depends autogating is a really nice feature. White or green is a preference, I prefer white. Duals over one pvs-14 is always optimal but I think the best way to jump in if money is tighter is get in with pvs-14. NV holds its value really well.
Thin filmed auto gated (OMNI VIII to OMNI VIII specs, OMNI VII being better) is a must in green phosphor is about the bottom tiered of high quality Gen III tubes. These are typically the "starter" Gen III units. The absolute best tiered tube that you can get is a L3 filmess min FOM 2376 (with the FOM being 2800+ if you know people). FOM is a measurement of SNR (signal-to-noise ratio, the higher the better) times the resolution (higher is 72 and above, but you also need good EBI and Halo), and color pallet being white phosphor (gives better background contrast and slightly better performance in low to no light ambient conditions).
Also, no blems (dark, oblong deformations in the tube) in zone 1 or 2 is the best. You can have blems in your tube, but if you can, pick a tube that is either lacking in them or in zone 3 (the outer edge of your view). Blems don't degrade the tubes performance, but they are quite an eye sore if they are directly in your line of view.
@@braxtonnelson7976 that’s the conclusion I’ve came to is gen 3 wp autogated pvs-14 is basically the minimum. Just a lot of money to spend on something ive never seen in person let alone got to try out. There isn’t a place I know of to check any of this stuff out.
Can someone explain why the mounts are so expensive? Materials? Tooling? Labor? Financial need? Can anyone in the industry explain? For how small the mounts are and for how relatively simple the parts are, I can't imagine that high of a price being the result of cost of production.
Pretty much all of that! They’re made by Americans, by hand, with expensive tooling, expensive labor/quality control, and expensive materials (most night vision mounts are titanium)
@@nickjohnson8780 definitely don't get to hyped up on the ATN ps31.. save for PVS31s if you want those.. if you don't wanna pay 13k then get a good set of DTNVS .. ATN is a no go 🙅♂️🙅♂️
look into the DTAMS Act in Black is dropping or Mod3's over bridge PVS-14 setups. Start with a single tube for those who can't afford the bino jump and have a clear upgrade path. Only real hurdle is making sure the second tube you purchase plays well with the first tube.
I completely agree on selling guns you have to get into night vision. But unfortunately the guns you just mentioned you won’t be able to get anything for. Also people need to get over getting into a dual set over a 14. A 14 is plenty for 99 percent of folks out here
Yeah you really aren’t more constrained by a 14 than bino’s. They both have the same field of view, and you can still see fairly well in the dark with your unaided eye. I was really surprised at how good my natural night vision was the first time I took my 14 out. Most people don’t venture into the dark without a flashlight, but with a 14 you do, and the unaided eye really adjust substantially if you actually allow it.
@@revvyishonisd5027yup I did range 410a in 29 palms with one of my 31’s pushed up, I pushed it up so I could focus around me, and I forgot to lower it back down cause I wasn’t hindered at all with one eye
Everyone complaining about the cost of kit need to read or watch Dave Ramsey - especially his envelope system. Carry cash and use it for everything you can, pay down ALL your debt, and avoid buying anything that isn't absolutely necessary (while constantly questioning what "necessary" means). Saving money, and investing in things like kit, land, and gold is the way out for Western Man. Plus, using cash and buying gold/silver/lead puts the squeeze on the Banks, Feds, and Globalists. My goal for 2021 was making myself completely debt free and getting married - that's done. My goals for next year are 1. Buying 30+ acres out in the sticks, 2. Upgrading my kit to include NV and a suppressor, and 3. investing in the people around me and building a community of assets instead of liabilities. Sorry for the rant, but if youre subbed to this channel and youve read this far you probably agree.
It seems like the impression made was that NV has auto gating and that be carful, but it’s durable.. I have a top tier L3 tube. Any light for less than a second would cause blemishes. They would go away, but after black boxing for days, a blemish wouldn’t go away in zone one. Only have had it for a couple weeks.
Imo get a pvs14 first and then upgrade from there. I picked up a helmet from hard headed veterans and find it to be a high value ballistic helmet without the extreme high dollar cost.
Just got me a HHV bump yesterday.. Once I start working again, straight to a Wendy ballistic. Edit, After some time using it, I put arc rails and an opscore type harness on it from ballistic armor co, fits MUCH better after adding them, With a Microbat counterweight. Ordered the AXL/Opscore mount for some howard leights. I think the longest Ive worn it has been 3-4 hours, driving. 2-3 hours hiking. Im getting hotspots, but I think its just cause I gotta break the pads in still. BUT, so far its actually been pretty decent.
They're stupid heavy compared to other ballistic helmets on the market. For me that's an important reason to avoid them. If you can't afford a light ballistic helmet, get a bump until you can.
I own both a bump helmet (Protec alpha bravo) and a ballistic helmet (ACH/ECH helmet, old school but affordable. I got mine from Fort Bragg Surplus). I would wear a bump helmet in training or in situations where ballistic protection is not needed. Either way, whether if you have a ballistic or bump helmet, keep your helmet as slick and as light as possible otherwise you’ll experience neck/head pain. Most ballistic helmets are meant to stop pistol rounds but they can also stop rifle rounds. In the end, it’s better to have some protection than no protection.
I wish I had of known about weights when I was in the army and running NVG's! Numerous head and jaw pains from synching down my chin strap to hold em in place! LMAO
Hey, is that a wedding ring? Never knew you had a personal life outside of Trex arms 🤷♂️ lol Best wishes 🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸 Also dude, the math is “multiplication” and you multiply two times two is “multiplication”
Instead of selling a bunch of crap and buying night vision.... work a lot, save money. Buy night vision. Don't make enough money? Work more, work harder.
If I had the coin.....night vision is good to go. Most of us cant afford it because it is too expensive and most of us have other priorities. I used NV when I was in the .mil and I'm blown away by how advanced it has become from when I was in to now. Excellent video brother.
Look for Canis Latrans PVS14 clone. They're IR cut digital sensor, digital eyescreen, costs about $145.00 They're waterproof to x meters,, use almost all pvs14 accessories, and nearly identical sized front mounting ring.
The reason why I run a monocular is because I run it bridged with a Nox 18. With the bridged mount, it allows for the display of the thermal to be centered in the 40⁰ FOV of the PVS, and gives you a pseudo "fused" image.
isn't the NOX 18 designed to be mounted on a long gun? Dude , your neck muscles must be massive?! Have wondered real use battery life is on that? & how is the "horizon splash" ? I ask b/c doing similar w/ FLIR Breach ...
@@bargainhunter4033 the Nox is primarily a heat mounted/handheld spotter that can weapons moutned and the Nox 35 is primarily a weapon mounted unit that *can* be helmet mounted if you're a Chad.
Now you can bridge pvs14 and change FOV by canting them out. Can't do that with binos ... but if I'm buying TWO pvs14, I'm gonna just get a dedicated bino. I'm happy with my pvs14 for now tho
although not 97° like 4 tubes , the NoiseFighters "Pano-Bridge" provides 75° FOV for considerably less & provides more versatility , Ex. mounting a Thermal Monocular in conjunction , among other things ... @NightWalkers has very informative videos / vlogs on multiple platforms & Night Vision is literally his job.
I remember when I served for a few years as a reservist we got to use and practice with nvg's There was a few times when the moon was covered by clouds and trees... you couldn't see your hand in front of you with the naked eye AND when you had the nvg's on, it was just a really dark green hue. Couldn't see SHIT! Lmfao we held the tac vest of the guy in front so we wouldn't lose each other. We still manage to lose a guy and one of our nco's went looking for him LMAO
Seriously you can get into night vision for pretty cheap. Let me know if you have questions, but I’ll tell you about my experience below. I started with dual tube green Gen 3 RNVGs that I got for cheap ($4500) (but you could get similarly spec’d pvs14’s used for like $1500 if you shop around, ask me where) and then get a rhino mount $60 for a pvs14, or a rhino2 and a dovetail adapter (150-200$) or maybe something else if you find a good deal, and then think about helmets. The first helmet I bought to support night vision was an LWH (they were kinda cheap then) for $150 with the shroud attached. You could buy an ACH for less. They range all over the place, but I have bought them for as low as $60. Average is probably around $300 My second helmet was the alternative to a high cut helmet on the cheap. I bought a DH132B vehicle crewman helmet (same ballistic rating as an ACH or almost any other modern Helmet) for about $200, and then spent more money buying a retention system for it, and pads, and you CAN buy rails to mount to it too, (for the cool guy look) but I didn’t. That’s a cheap way to get a “high cut” helmet though. My favorite helmet that I own though, is an ECH that I bought near camp Lejeune for $250… (that’s a freakin steal, but you can still get them for like 4-600$) and what’s so great about the ECH, is that is a rifle rated helmet, that isn’t ridiculously heavy, or anything like that. It’s basically an ACH, but thicker, at the same weight, because it uses UHMWP, instead of Kevlar. If you don’t need a high cut (you probably don’t, you can still wear electronic ear pro UNDER a regular helmet) then this is the best one you can buy in my opinion. I have been issued a high cut ECH, and it’s amazing though. It’s super light, rifle rated, and it is nice to just be able to flip the peltors up and out of the way from time to time, but if you’re concerned about budget, you probably don’t need to get a high cut, and you can still get an American made ballistic helmet for less than an opscore/teamwendy bump helmet… I’ll always preach this on these videos, because Lucas is starting to explore budget options a little more, but honestly, you can get into night vision for WAY cheaper.
What’s your experience been with RNVG for tactical use? I want the option to be able to run a single tube for some purposes but it’s hard to spend the money on articulating RNVG and the added complexity
Gen2 vs Gen3 NV visually is only about 15 percent more sharpness. If you need NV and don't have a down payment on a new car to throw at NVG's, then go with Gen2. Be advised they might not have safeties for bright light damage.
@@davidsirmons Gen 2's also burn out faster (2000 hours compared to 10,000 hours in a Gen III), are not autogated (protects the tube from light exposure), and when they start to run out the image degrades (unlike Gen III). Gen 2 is better than nothing, but for about 1k more if you look around, it's worth the upgrade from Gen 2 to Gen III.
I bought an HHV bump helmet as my 1st one it has 3 cracks 2 around the shroud and the rivets and 1 up the back. 100% do not recommend when you can spend 20 more dollars and get an op's core or Wendy
Question for anyone with experience: With your NOD experience, assuming roughly the same budget range, would you recommend a high quality single tube (i.e. L3 unfilmed white w/ higher specs) or duals with lower end tubes (i.e. RNVG w/ photis green basic tubes). It seems you can get into both systems for roughly the 5k range but Im not sure which is more of a priority quantity vs quality in this type of instance. I live in and am LEO in urban/suburban south florida so that would be my main usage environment
I would say in an urban situation (likely to be closer quarters work, and also decent ambient light, from streetlights, or even home lighting and whatnot) you should go for the dual tubes. I’ve always been issued a pvs14, and like Lucas said, there’s a lot I’ve valuable training that comes from being proficient with a single tube system, but duals just allow you to focus brain power elsewhere, instead of always trying to compute/combine your eyes’ two different images. My unit is starting to get PVS31s, and they’re white phos, and it is amazing, and there IS a good difference in the amount of light they pick up, and perceived clarity of the image in low light, but like I said, in most situations that I imagine you’d encounter, green phos would suit you just fine. I have a personal set of RNVGs that are green phos, and they perform super well with nothing but the light from a smoke detector in an otherwise pitch black room. It doesn’t take much, and like I said, they just allow me to not have to think about using the night vision, they’re just like putting on a pair of green glasses, and going to work. Just my two cents, hope it helps. Edit : Another thing to consider though, is having an eye that is already adjusted to low-light. With a single tube, you will always have an eye that’s ready to see in the dark for situations where your nods aren’t convenient (you’d probably have your nods focused out to infinite distance, so close-in work can be tricky unless you re-focus them, which is why it’s nice to have a focused naked eye sometimes) I keep my duals focused out infinitely of course, but the remedy for this is to just get some scope caps, (butler creek makes the best ones) and drill small holes in the center of each. I keep them closed all the time, and they stay infinitely focused, but are also great at close-in work! If I need more light in the tubes, I can open and close the caps at will, without having to re-focus the objective lenses. Just another thing to think about
totally depends on your intent of use. If you you will be using mostly in lower light situations I would go with best specs I could find in a single. If you have lots of ambient light etc, like the previous guys said, go with the lower spec duals. You still have the same field of view with both, but your brain just works a lot less with the duals. I train a lot with my single PVS14 just for that reason.
Just got my l3 filmless from custom NV last night. Holy crap! I can see in the dark! It's so awesome! I drove around the farm tonight just fooling around it's a lot easier than I expected.
Hey Lucas, next time the audio cuts out you should take the opportunity to get product leaks out of your system 🤣😆 Congrats btw, may Yah bless your household
Hearing that MTEK has distribution issues I'm glad I knew a guy that got me a brand new Flux ballistic for $400.. only downside is they don't have a suspension system from the factory
Gen 2 vs Gen 3 is not a meaningful discussion. Let’s talk about specs for particular tubes. Getting a 30+ SNR and 68lp/mm is entirely feasible on “Gen 2” tubes. This is a GREAT tube. Very usable. My Photonis barely delivers less than my Elbit tube, which is slightly higher specced. For anyone buying, call your vendor, ask for specs if possible. Also, filmless might be slightly more bright, but the film refers to very thin ion barrier on the photocathode in the tube, which prevents chemical (and structural) degradation of the photocathode.
I know just enough to know SNR is sound:noise ratio, and lines per millimeter. I understand that. Are there any other numbers or grades on a spec sheet I should know about?
@@geebeaux EBI (background brightness), Halo (how much "halo" shows up around either IR light or visible light, the less the better), and blems (zone 3 being the best, zone 1 the worst)
Filmless still has a thin film... lol it’s just thinner than thin filmed. No gen 2 doesn’t perform even close to the same in low light or no moon even. That ion bond screen does more than just protect the tube it.
@@geebeaux Yes, but I'd consider them secondary. Halo and EBI are the next things to really consider, which affect how various artifacts appear, such as bright point lights and others. Lower is better, in general.
@@geebeaux Also blemishes in the phosphor coating, as ThermalToyzNGear mentions. Zone 1 blems are really annoying. Look for 0 or MAAYBE 1 very minor dust spec blem there. Zones 2 and 3, I leave to preference, but blems bother ME in general. All my tubes have blems on the other hand, and they aren't debilitating. Just annoying when you start paying attention to them, which is hard when you have a non-flat background to be honest.
In regards to defeating rifle rounds to the head, I believe the risk of secondary injury is very high. For instance, your helmet can defend against 7.62x39 within 150 meters. How likely are you to suffer a debilitating or fatal neck injury? I have never seen any research on that possibility. Understand that it's a relative question. Would you rather die from a hole in the head, or die from a sealed decapitation, or live with c6 or above paralysis?
Team Wendy LTP, Comtac 3’s w/unity marks, Wilcox g24, pvs14 Photonis wp “echo spec” tubes. Great setup for my first. No complaints. Do your research. Everyone is different.
Would a wraith 4k helmet mountable night vision be better than pvs7? I’m not gonna have the money for the pvs14. I have tried the nvg10 and they’re pretty good. But I’m looking for something a bit better. Any thoughts??
Pretty much shooter’s preference. You’ll probably be more comfortable using your dominant eye, but if you plan on passive shooting through an optic, then the choice is obvious :)
Would a PVS14 be better than duals if the 14 has good white phosphorus tunes versus duals with low quality white or green? Thinking of building a 14 and then pano bridge or flir breach
Copy/pasting from another comment, hopefully it helps :) I would say in an urban situation (likely to be closer quarters work, and also decent ambient light, from streetlights, or even home lighting and whatnot) you should go for the dual tubes. I’ve always been issued a pvs14, and like Lucas said, there’s a lot I’ve valuable training that comes from being proficient with a single tube system, but duals just allow you to focus brain power elsewhere, instead of always trying to compute/combine your eyes’ two different images. My unit is starting to get PVS31s, and they’re white phos, and it is amazing, and there IS a good difference in the amount of light they pick up, and perceived clarity of the image in low light, but like I said, in most situations that I imagine you’d encounter, green phos would suit you just fine. I have a personal set of RNVGs that are green phos, and they perform super well with nothing but the light from a smoke detector in an otherwise pitch black room. It doesn’t take much, and like I said, they just allow me to not have to think about using the night vision, they’re just like putting on a pair of green glasses, and going to work. Just my two cents, hope it helps. Edit : Another thing to consider though, is having an eye that is already adjusted to low-light. With a single tube, you will always have an eye that’s ready to see in the dark for situations where your nods aren’t convenient (you’d probably have your nods focused out to infinite distance, so close-in work can be tricky unless you re-focus them, which is why it’s nice to have a focused naked eye sometimes) I keep my duals focused out infinitely of course, but the remedy for this is to just get some scope caps, (butler creek makes the best ones) and drill small holes in the center of each. I keep them closed all the time, and they stay infinitely focused, but are also great at close-in work! If I need more light in the tubes, I can open and close the caps at will, without having to re-focus the objective lenses. Just another thing to think about
I didn’t think I could like your videos more, but your comments/ rant on hhv and American manufacturers has!! We in the 2a community need to push to buy more American made. Or at the very least anywhere but China!!! Awesome video btw!
Ops Core is the best helmet. I choose to stay away from Hard Headed Veterans, their helmets are from china. They are working on an American made helmet though, so that opinion could change.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Congrats on getting married Lucas!
Might explain the black eye last month😂
@@scottbonnell23 Well I guess I should change the comment to "Welcome to married life Lucas" XD
Hello Lucas..from centerville...I enjoyed the video..but I am still sat up like when I resigned my commission from Dam Neck.. I am still running Emerson fast maritime I still have the IR strobe on to the back so when we have a chopper up with flair he can track US I'm still running the same system which is the Insight Technology L3 Warrior system to ground panoramic night vision thank you I do enjoy the videos
Yes, congrats! I met Lucas’ husband the other day at Starbucks - he was super sweet! So happy for the new couple. What nice guys.
@@caesarleon1 why were u at Starbucks in the first place 🤨
15:03
"The bee's knees, the cat's pajamas, AND the cat's knees all in one"
Must have taken note from the last stream...
Practicing his dad jokes.
“You’ve got 9 different guns, which are more or less crap, sell half of them and get some capabilities you wouldn’t normally have”
Truer words haven’t been spoken, but geshhh that’s a hard message to pass on to family friends without coming off as arrogant or stuck up lol. I agree 100%.
Anybody who owns more than 2 firearms is one serious weirdo
@@TheInfantry98 2 is 1, 1 is None, therefore 4 or more
@@TheInfantry98 IMO, everyone should have a .22lr pistol and rifle for cheap practice and training beginners. Then you should have a home defense weapon - either a shotgun or a assault rifle - and a pistol for concealed carry.
That's the minimum and that is 4 firearms.
@@TheInfantry98 owning many firearms is fine as long as all of the have real and significant uses
This video inspired me to buy and train on a pvs14 and now that today I've just bought a DTNVS it gets recommended to me... really brings me back
Suddenly peering over at my gun cabinet with all my hunting rifles I never use.
Ambient light awareness is big. When both eyes are adjusted to binos you can perceive it to be allot darker outside than it is and present a target. Can see them does not mean they can’t see you.
Me who drinks beer a lot AND has night vision 👀
That is a flex.
So your an alcoholic and unhealthy ?
@@TREXARMS Are the sets of NVGs T Rex Arms gets from Nocturnality 100% properly collumated?
Night vision is probably "too expensive" to many people that can afford a lot of different kind of things because its like one thing, one single small unit that cost like a hell of a lot. That's why I feel like I never have money to get anything, but when I pay something on credit and pay it back in small amounts then I can magically afford it.
Ty for the info
but you pay interest which means it cost you alot more. Im the type of person to look at total cost not momentary cost. rather be broke for a bit then be robbed in the long term
Are you talking about male prostitutes again?
Thats not smart at all man. Its far wiser to pay your credit card off in full immediately so you don't fuck up your credit score
You shouldn't buy something like night vision with credit. Pay cash even if it takes longer. I feel you, it seems like a really really important item to have, but at the end of the day most of the time it'll be a cool toy in a way.
I don’t know anyone that actually has night vision and I know a lot of gun people. I wish there was a place you could go to look at some of this stuff and at least look through some. It’s a hard thing to spend so much money on when you’ve never even seen night vision in person. I can shoot machine guns anytime I want but don’t know anywhere I can try out some nvg’s.
What state you live in man? Me and 3 buddies in my group got WP PVS14s.
Any US producer has dealers and affiliates listed on their webpage. Depending upon state, that could be a drive.
There’s a gun store local to us that hosts a NVG dealer monthly and they give demos. I’m in Oklahoma.
@@alexanderschooler579 I wish there was a place like that near me. I live in Pennsylvania
@@jpk9171jpk Theres a place in Allentown that makes NVD. Might be able to do some detective work to see if they do demos.
Or, if you play airsoft, big milsims that do night shenanigans rent NV. SO you dont have to buy your own. Its a good way to get some kind of experience.
Lucas botkins was never law enforcement or military yet he absolutely destroys almost everyone with knowledge and skill. The reality is he proves it doesn't matter. His character trumps every factor.
Leo and mil are literally the stupidest people on earth.
@@ghostlight69420 You literally made a generalization that is stupid.
@@ghostlight69420 hard push to be the keyboard warrior of the year. Solid start.
@@johnemmert9012 "literally"
Closeted valley girl.
Every idea that will fit inside your puny brain is a generalization. Deal with it.
@@brianwheeler4687 Refute my claims.
Damn, no notification for the live
I got a gen 3 pvs-14 for 900 from a buddy. I would have never been able to get into night vision otherwise cause of the price
you should consider adding timestamps to these livestreams if thats possible
Solid advice, I've got a cheaper PVS-14 with a lower tier Gen 3 tube. I'll eventually get an upgrade but just having that alone is a game changer. I highly recommend if you can afford it get even a lower tier gen 3 unit from a reputable company like TNVC.
but buy once cry once?
@@n0xxm3rcyxx heres the thing, when I upgrade I can keep my pvs14. It still has plenty of uses, it's small and handy to just throw in a pocket so it'll still probably be my go to for bringing along for outdoor activities where using night vision isn't the plan but might be fun or useful. It never hurts to cary a super power in your pocket.
@@death31313 got me thinking... if u upgrade you can give a superpower to a buddy (or borrow.) And then you both have one.
The way he said "drinking beer every night" lol such a sweet kid.
The new G24 mounts are extended just like the G22Es. Definitely get the new ones. If you have RNVGs you also get a dovetail extender as well
Damn, only if this video was made now, all the options for 3d printed housings and digital printed NVGs are really stepping up in the past 10 months.
We ran pvs14 in the Marines with M16A4 and acog…needless to say I just used the peq to aim
Back then you were more freely able to do that, not so much these days anymore.
What about a pvs 14 with and eotech? Or should I just nut up and get an ir laser?
@@michaelparks7563 you should use a red dot of some kind and passive aim. Lasers, both visible and IR will give away your position.
@@doom-gloom Thank you for answering appreciate it I'm safe I'm saving up now for the 14. I want to try it out with a T2 and an Eotech.
@@michaelparks7563 it will work with either of those optics though I recommend the T2 as it is far more reliable and durable than the Eotech
if you are using this gear for the scenario that the 2A was established for using the IR lights and lasers will only give you away, remember who your proposed opponent is and what their gear is.
Lucas I love what you’re doing and I’ve been listening to y’all for years. I train hard and I own night vision. However, I feel like you’re missing the mark by telling people not to complain about the cost of night vision. Consumers will always complain about the high cost of products, especially products that everyone should have access to, and it is 100% within everyone’s right to do so. I have heard you yourself complain about the exorbitant costs of machine guns and the like that should be accessible to everyone. Then you tell people to just accept the high cost of nvgs. I absolutely get your argument and while I do like that you’re trying to teach people about budgeting, which is a must have skill (yes budgeting is a skill) for all of us who are into this stuff, people are totally within their rights to complain about the frankly ridiculous cost of night vision. Again, I’m not hating and I own 2 nvg setups, but you need to understand where people are coming from when they’re expressing their distaste about the cost of this stuff.
His complaint about machine guns is that the price is artificially increased because of the strict restrictions imposed by the government. A pre 86 transferable m16 lower is worth $15,000 in a private sale even though a physically identical ar15 lower without a 3rd hole drilled only costs about $60 because it’s not legal for more of full auto lowers to be manufactured and sold in the civilian market. The only difference is that one of them was manufactured before 1986 and has all the legally required permission slips from Uncle Sam to be sold as a machine gun. Without those laws, a full auto lower would only be worth $60. I’m sure something like a m249 saw would still cost a few thousand dollars as that is how much the semi auto versions cost anyways.
Being a US citizen and being able to buy the latest a greatest night vision because of it, is like being able to ring up Lockheed Martin and ordering the not-for-export F22 raptor and them actually delivering it to your house. It’s one of the last untouched rights we have, and if you can afford a few guns, you can afford it too. Which is pretty fuckin cool of a deal if you ask me. Even if it’s fairly expensive. But really it’s not for what it is, and there’s multiple price points for multiple budgets.
@@wc570 This
@@wc570 Meanwhile he admitted the cost of NVGs are 4x inflated from what they should be in this very video. It is also artificially increased.
@@jackshyt4 because of gov contracts, not because of artificial scarcity imposed by law
Gen 3 pvs 14s start at $2k and go to $5k. What’s a must have and what is nice to have but not needed? From what I can tell there are 4 major differences green vs white , autogated vs non , filmed vs filmless and the quality of the tubes. And whats better a $3500 pvs-14 white p, autogated, quality tube or $5000 green ,non autogated, low quality dual tubes?
Depends autogating is a really nice feature. White or green is a preference, I prefer white. Duals over one pvs-14 is always optimal but I think the best way to jump in if money is tighter is get in with pvs-14. NV holds its value really well.
Thin filmed auto gated (OMNI VIII to OMNI VIII specs, OMNI VII being better) is a must in green phosphor is about the bottom tiered of high quality Gen III tubes. These are typically the "starter" Gen III units.
The absolute best tiered tube that you can get is a L3 filmess min FOM 2376 (with the FOM being 2800+ if you know people). FOM is a measurement of SNR (signal-to-noise ratio, the higher the better) times the resolution (higher is 72 and above, but you also need good EBI and Halo), and color pallet being white phosphor (gives better background contrast and slightly better performance in low to no light ambient conditions).
Also, no blems (dark, oblong deformations in the tube) in zone 1 or 2 is the best. You can have blems in your tube, but if you can, pick a tube that is either lacking in them or in zone 3 (the outer edge of your view).
Blems don't degrade the tubes performance, but they are quite an eye sore if they are directly in your line of view.
I'd look for an MX11769 tube for a good thin filmed autogated Gen III unit (Elbit OMNI VII).
@@braxtonnelson7976 that’s the conclusion I’ve came to is gen 3 wp autogated pvs-14 is basically the minimum. Just a lot of money to spend on something ive never seen in person let alone got to try out. There isn’t a place I know of to check any of this stuff out.
Can someone explain why the mounts are so expensive? Materials? Tooling? Labor? Financial need? Can anyone in the industry explain? For how small the mounts are and for how relatively simple the parts are, I can't imagine that high of a price being the result of cost of production.
Pretty much all of that! They’re made by Americans, by hand, with expensive tooling, expensive labor/quality control, and expensive materials (most night vision mounts are titanium)
Was excited to watch the livestream, but then ended up with overtime and missed it :(
Excellent, more money towards night vision
so true, looking at atn's ps31 in 3rd gen white phosphor. $7000 more to go :D
@@nickjohnson8780 definitely don't get to hyped up on the ATN ps31.. save for PVS31s if you want those.. if you don't wanna pay 13k then get a good set of DTNVS .. ATN is a no go 🙅♂️🙅♂️
Wow Lucas is married didn’t see that one coming 😂 but love brother ❤❤❤
look into the DTAMS Act in Black is dropping or Mod3's over bridge PVS-14 setups. Start with a single tube for those who can't afford the bino jump and have a clear upgrade path. Only real hurdle is making sure the second tube you purchase plays well with the first tube.
I completely agree on selling guns you have to get into night vision. But unfortunately the guns you just mentioned you won’t be able to get anything for.
Also people need to get over getting into a dual set over a 14. A 14 is plenty for 99 percent of folks out here
Yeah you really aren’t more constrained by a 14 than bino’s. They both have the same field of view, and you can still see fairly well in the dark with your unaided eye. I was really surprised at how good my natural night vision was the first time I took my 14 out. Most people don’t venture into the dark without a flashlight, but with a 14 you do, and the unaided eye really adjust substantially if you actually allow it.
@@revvyishonisd5027yup I did range 410a in 29 palms with one of my 31’s pushed up, I pushed it up so I could focus around me, and I forgot to lower it back down cause I wasn’t hindered at all with one eye
heads up, the fake ebay G24 mounts work just as good as anything. using it for dual mount breach and pvs, no issues.
@greywhite Would you mind sharing the link to the one you have?
Everyone complaining about the cost of kit need to read or watch Dave Ramsey - especially his envelope system. Carry cash and use it for everything you can, pay down ALL your debt, and avoid buying anything that isn't absolutely necessary (while constantly questioning what "necessary" means). Saving money, and investing in things like kit, land, and gold is the way out for Western Man. Plus, using cash and buying gold/silver/lead puts the squeeze on the Banks, Feds, and Globalists. My goal for 2021 was making myself completely debt free and getting married - that's done. My goals for next year are 1. Buying 30+ acres out in the sticks, 2. Upgrading my kit to include NV and a suppressor, and 3. investing in the people around me and building a community of assets instead of liabilities. Sorry for the rant, but if youre subbed to this channel and youve read this far you probably agree.
It seems like the impression made was that NV has auto gating and that be carful, but it’s durable.. I have a top tier L3 tube. Any light for less than a second would cause blemishes. They would go away, but after black boxing for days, a blemish wouldn’t go away in zone one. Only have had it for a couple weeks.
Imo get a pvs14 first and then upgrade from there. I picked up a helmet from hard headed veterans and find it to be a high value ballistic helmet without the extreme high dollar cost.
Just got me a HHV bump yesterday.. Once I start working again, straight to a Wendy ballistic.
Edit, After some time using it, I put arc rails and an opscore type harness on it from ballistic armor co, fits MUCH better after adding them, With a Microbat counterweight. Ordered the AXL/Opscore mount for some howard leights. I think the longest Ive worn it has been 3-4 hours, driving. 2-3 hours hiking. Im getting hotspots, but I think its just cause I gotta break the pads in still. BUT, so far its actually been pretty decent.
They're stupid heavy compared to other ballistic helmets on the market. For me that's an important reason to avoid them. If you can't afford a light ballistic helmet, get a bump until you can.
Do you find those helmets solid ? I am seriously looking at picking one up.
I own both a bump helmet (Protec alpha bravo) and a ballistic helmet (ACH/ECH helmet, old school but affordable. I got mine from Fort Bragg Surplus). I would wear a bump helmet in training or in situations where ballistic protection is not needed. Either way, whether if you have a ballistic or bump helmet, keep your helmet as slick and as light as possible otherwise you’ll experience neck/head pain. Most ballistic helmets are meant to stop pistol rounds but they can also stop rifle rounds. In the end, it’s better to have some protection than no protection.
@@TheInfantry98 Just get a Shellback Tactical ballistic. Made in the US and comparable price to the HHV.
I wish I had of known about weights when I was in the army and running NVG's! Numerous head and jaw pains from synching down my chin strap to hold em in place! LMAO
Lucas: dont say congrats.
me and the bois: figuring out how say congrats in every possible way
You need to do some stuf thermal. If you don't have thermal you are likely to lose the fight.
I'm so glad you talked about how people cry about not affording things but yet spend money on all kinds of crap they dont really need ...
Hey, is that a wedding ring? Never knew you had a personal life outside of Trex arms 🤷♂️ lol
Best wishes 🇺🇸❤️🇺🇸
Also dude, the math is “multiplication” and you multiply two times two is “multiplication”
Accidental strobe flash at 54:54 Lucas? upper left corner of your armory? LMAO
Instead of selling a bunch of crap and buying night vision.... work a lot, save money. Buy night vision. Don't make enough money? Work more, work harder.
That’s the good ol’ American way!
I like Team Wendy bump, Wilcox Mount, and I sold my single TNVC PVS14 after getting duals from TNVC. ONCE YOU DUAL, THERE IS NO GOING BACK!!!
If I had the coin.....night vision is good to go. Most of us cant afford it because it is too expensive and most of us have other priorities. I used NV when I was in the .mil and I'm blown away by how advanced it has become from when I was in to now. Excellent video brother.
Look for Canis Latrans PVS14 clone. They're IR cut digital sensor, digital eyescreen, costs about $145.00
They're waterproof to x meters,, use almost all pvs14 accessories, and nearly identical sized front mounting ring.
@@davidsirmons good way to burn $145. Digital isn't viable for moving and shooting.
The reason why I run a monocular is because I run it bridged with a Nox 18. With the bridged mount, it allows for the display of the thermal to be centered in the 40⁰ FOV of the PVS, and gives you a pseudo "fused" image.
isn't the NOX 18 designed to be mounted on a long gun? Dude , your neck muscles must be massive?! Have wondered real use battery life is on that? & how is the "horizon splash" ? I ask b/c doing similar w/ FLIR Breach ...
@@bargainhunter4033 the nox 18 is versatile... both helmet and rifle mounted ... the nox 35 is what your probably talking about
@@bargainhunter4033 the Nox is primarily a heat mounted/handheld spotter that can weapons moutned and the Nox 35 is primarily a weapon mounted unit that *can* be helmet mounted if you're a Chad.
@@bargainhunter4033 the Nox takes 18650 batteries, and they typically last around 6 hours of constant use.... much better than burning through CR123s
I can't even imagine what that would look like in my eye, nods with thermal, crazy!
Now you can bridge pvs14 and change FOV by canting them out. Can't do that with binos ... but if I'm buying TWO pvs14, I'm gonna just get a dedicated bino. I'm happy with my pvs14 for now tho
although not 97° like 4 tubes , the NoiseFighters "Pano-Bridge" provides 75° FOV for considerably less & provides more versatility , Ex. mounting a Thermal Monocular in conjunction , among other things ... @NightWalkers has very informative videos / vlogs on multiple platforms & Night Vision is literally his job.
Will be great once they have a dedicated housing.
bought a set of TNV DTNVS Un-filmed WP. So GOOD!!!
I remember when I served for a few years as a reservist we got to use and practice with nvg's There was a few times when the moon was covered by clouds and trees... you couldn't see your hand in front of you with the naked eye AND when you had the nvg's on, it was just a really dark green hue. Couldn't see SHIT! Lmfao we held the tac vest of the guy in front so we wouldn't lose each other. We still manage to lose a guy and one of our nco's went looking for him LMAO
Surplus ECH helmets stop rifle rounds
So glad someone finally said this.
great stuff guys love your work
If a bino fails you're done, if a bridged pair fails you're using one eye and still in the fight.
I'm blind in one eye so I'm gonna save some money and get the single. 😆
um...lucky you?? I guess...? lol
Best pvs-14 white phosphorus new Under 3000? Link
“People don’t want to spend $0.18 a round so instead they want to buy [$10k] night vision.” Doesn’t make sense bro.
Also would love to know how he got a set of panos for no where near 40k, which is insane anyway.
27:16 "White is the way if you can afford it"
Clips with no context. Lololol
Seriously you can get into night vision for pretty cheap. Let me know if you have questions, but I’ll tell you about my experience below.
I started with dual tube green Gen 3 RNVGs that I got for cheap ($4500) (but you could get similarly spec’d pvs14’s used for like $1500 if you shop around, ask me where) and then get a rhino mount $60 for a pvs14, or a rhino2 and a dovetail adapter (150-200$) or maybe something else if you find a good deal, and then think about helmets.
The first helmet I bought to support night vision was an LWH (they were kinda cheap then) for $150 with the shroud attached.
You could buy an ACH for less. They range all over the place, but I have bought them for as low as $60. Average is probably around $300
My second helmet was the alternative to a high cut helmet on the cheap. I bought a DH132B vehicle crewman helmet (same ballistic rating as an ACH or almost any other modern Helmet) for about $200, and then spent more money buying a retention system for it, and pads, and you CAN buy rails to mount to it too, (for the cool guy look) but I didn’t. That’s a cheap way to get a “high cut” helmet though.
My favorite helmet that I own though, is an ECH that I bought near camp Lejeune for $250… (that’s a freakin steal, but you can still get them for like 4-600$) and what’s so great about the ECH, is that is a rifle rated helmet, that isn’t ridiculously heavy, or anything like that. It’s basically an ACH, but thicker, at the same weight, because it uses UHMWP, instead of Kevlar. If you don’t need a high cut (you probably don’t, you can still wear electronic ear pro UNDER a regular helmet) then this is the best one you can buy in my opinion.
I have been issued a high cut ECH, and it’s amazing though. It’s super light, rifle rated, and it is nice to just be able to flip the peltors up and out of the way from time to time, but if you’re concerned about budget, you probably don’t need to get a high cut, and you can still get an American made ballistic helmet for less than an opscore/teamwendy bump helmet…
I’ll always preach this on these videos, because Lucas is starting to explore budget options a little more, but honestly, you can get into night vision for WAY cheaper.
Ok I'm asking. Where?
@@Lawofkings nowhere, he's full of shit
What’s your experience been with RNVG for tactical use? I want the option to be able to run a single tube for some purposes but it’s hard to spend the money on articulating RNVG and the added complexity
Started with Sents, moved to bnvd sg, and dtnvs.
Hi thank you for helping me choose
Opinion or comparison with l3 filmless, photonis 4g and photonis echo tubes?
Gen2 vs Gen3 NV visually is only about 15 percent more sharpness. If you need NV and don't have a down payment on a new car to throw at NVG's, then go with Gen2. Be advised they might not have safeties for bright light damage.
"only 15 percent" that is a mad clarity change
@@verysmallcats1374 it's insufficient reason to pay 2x as much for G2.
@@davidsirmons Gen 2's also burn out faster (2000 hours compared to 10,000 hours in a Gen III), are not autogated (protects the tube from light exposure), and when they start to run out the image degrades (unlike Gen III). Gen 2 is better than nothing, but for about 1k more if you look around, it's worth the upgrade from Gen 2 to Gen III.
I bought an HHV bump helmet as my 1st one it has 3 cracks 2 around the shroud and the rivets and 1 up the back. 100% do not recommend when you can spend 20 more dollars and get an op's core or Wendy
no warranty? I just got a HHV bump and I havent seen any problems with it. Put some arc rails and a opscore harness on it and its been pretty legit.
Question for anyone with experience: With your NOD experience, assuming roughly the same budget range, would you recommend a high quality single tube (i.e. L3 unfilmed white w/ higher specs) or duals with lower end tubes (i.e. RNVG w/ photis green basic tubes). It seems you can get into both systems for roughly the 5k range but Im not sure which is more of a priority quantity vs quality in this type of instance. I live in and am LEO in urban/suburban south florida so that would be my main usage environment
I would say in an urban situation (likely to be closer quarters work, and also decent ambient light, from streetlights, or even home lighting and whatnot) you should go for the dual tubes. I’ve always been issued a pvs14, and like Lucas said, there’s a lot I’ve valuable training that comes from being proficient with a single tube system, but duals just allow you to focus brain power elsewhere, instead of always trying to compute/combine your eyes’ two different images.
My unit is starting to get PVS31s, and they’re white phos, and it is amazing, and there IS a good difference in the amount of light they pick up, and perceived clarity of the image in low light, but like I said, in most situations that I imagine you’d encounter, green phos would suit you just fine.
I have a personal set of RNVGs that are green phos, and they perform super well with nothing but the light from a smoke detector in an otherwise pitch black room. It doesn’t take much, and like I said, they just allow me to not have to think about using the night vision, they’re just like putting on a pair of green glasses, and going to work.
Just my two cents, hope it helps.
Edit : Another thing to consider though, is having an eye that is already adjusted to low-light. With a single tube, you will always have an eye that’s ready to see in the dark for situations where your nods aren’t convenient (you’d probably have your nods focused out to infinite distance, so close-in work can be tricky unless you re-focus them, which is why it’s nice to have a focused naked eye sometimes)
I keep my duals focused out infinitely of course, but the remedy for this is to just get some scope caps, (butler creek makes the best ones) and drill small holes in the center of each. I keep them closed all the time, and they stay infinitely focused, but are also great at close-in work! If I need more light in the tubes, I can open and close the caps at will, without having to re-focus the objective lenses.
Just another thing to think about
totally depends on your intent of use. If you you will be using mostly in lower light situations I would go with best specs I could find in a single. If you have lots of ambient light etc, like the previous guys said, go with the lower spec duals. You still have the same field of view with both, but your brain just works a lot less with the duals. I train a lot with my single PVS14 just for that reason.
Just got my l3 filmless from custom NV last night. Holy crap! I can see in the dark! It's so awesome! I drove around the farm tonight just fooling around it's a lot easier than I expected.
That’s so true. People complain poverty and yet the lines are always long at Starbucks. Hit em with knowledge brotha!
lol the rhino 2 is so much most stable than the over priced wobbly wilcox G24 mounts.
Thanks Lucas
Bridged 14s are probably heavy for you bc you put a million things on your helmet
The "BIG RED BUTTON" is called an EMP device. Get a Micro Prism 1X from PA. You will thank me later.
Hey Lucas, next time the audio cuts out you should take the opportunity to get product leaks out of your system 🤣😆 Congrats btw, may Yah bless your household
Hey Lucas how many licks does it take to get to the center of a tootsie pop?
Puerto Rico is part of the US
We use ir strobes in our coyote hunt groups. It's nice knowing where people's are at night.
Hearing that MTEK has distribution issues I'm glad I knew a guy that got me a brand new Flux ballistic for $400.. only downside is they don't have a suspension system from the factory
Gen 2 vs Gen 3 is not a meaningful discussion. Let’s talk about specs for particular tubes. Getting a 30+ SNR and 68lp/mm is entirely feasible on “Gen 2” tubes. This is a GREAT tube. Very usable. My Photonis barely delivers less than my Elbit tube, which is slightly higher specced. For anyone buying, call your vendor, ask for specs if possible.
Also, filmless might be slightly more bright, but the film refers to very thin ion barrier on the photocathode in the tube, which prevents chemical (and structural) degradation of the photocathode.
I know just enough to know SNR is sound:noise ratio, and lines per millimeter. I understand that. Are there any other numbers or grades on a spec sheet I should know about?
@@geebeaux EBI (background brightness), Halo (how much "halo" shows up around either IR light or visible light, the less the better), and blems (zone 3 being the best, zone 1 the worst)
Filmless still has a thin film... lol it’s just thinner than thin filmed. No gen 2 doesn’t perform even close to the same in low light or no moon even. That ion bond screen does more than just protect the tube it.
@@geebeaux Yes, but I'd consider them secondary. Halo and EBI are the next things to really consider, which affect how various artifacts appear, such as bright point lights and others. Lower is better, in general.
@@geebeaux Also blemishes in the phosphor coating, as ThermalToyzNGear mentions. Zone 1 blems are really annoying. Look for 0 or MAAYBE 1 very minor dust spec blem there. Zones 2 and 3, I leave to preference, but blems bother ME in general. All my tubes have blems on the other hand, and they aren't debilitating. Just annoying when you start paying attention to them, which is hard when you have a non-flat background to be honest.
For those of us outside of North America, where only up to Gen 2+ is legally available, is it worth it?
Better than nothing
In regards to defeating rifle rounds to the head, I believe the risk of secondary injury is very high. For instance, your helmet can defend against 7.62x39 within 150 meters. How likely are you to suffer a debilitating or fatal neck injury? I have never seen any research on that possibility. Understand that it's a relative question. Would you rather die from a hole in the head, or die from a sealed decapitation, or live with c6 or above paralysis?
I will never let go of my Marlin 1894 or mil surp bolt guns they are so fun to shoot
Team Wendy LTP, Comtac 3’s w/unity marks, Wilcox g24, pvs14 Photonis wp “echo spec” tubes. Great setup for my first. No complaints. Do your research. Everyone is different.
join the military then get it all for free
@@TheInfantry98 have to give it back lol
So, when is the baby due...?... lol
46:16 Lucas, can you do an article/video about the blackout switch on your 4Runner? I’ve been thinking about doing it for awhile on my Tacoma.
Would a wraith 4k helmet mountable night vision be better than pvs7? I’m not gonna have the money for the pvs14. I have tried the nvg10 and they’re pretty good. But I’m looking for something a bit better. Any thoughts??
if i had to get a pvs 14 should it be mounted over my dominant eye or non dominant? what are the pros and cons for both?
Pretty much shooter’s preference. You’ll probably be more comfortable using your dominant eye, but if you plan on passive shooting through an optic, then the choice is obvious :)
Yeah but man it's like 10000 bucks in Switzerland to get good binos, so just enjoy buying this 300 bucks shitty chinese ak 🤣
I use a GEN2+ WPT and NO COMPLAINTS! Works perfectly fine for CQCB and Range Distances.
FLIR Night vision combo thoughts?
Gen 3s are rated for over 10k hours. To put this in perspectiv, that is:
24h every day for 416 days
I hear ppl talk about their second rifle and third backup rifle and here I am struggling with just one rifle to get plates and nvgs
You mean't to say"Sheep skinning wolves and stealing there eyes" (NODS)😆
11:07 Like how everytime we buy secondary market Supdef? Like that you mean? 😆
Is there a risk for nvg when powered by surefire rechargeable batteries ?
👍
This dude just called pvs 7's weird? Bro were you even in the military? oh....
What vehicle IR lights are good for nightvision driving?
Night vision is great but having a thermal imager makes Night visions usfullness even better😊
Would a PVS14 be better than duals if the 14 has good white phosphorus tunes versus duals with low quality white or green? Thinking of building a 14 and then pano bridge or flir breach
The issue with the pano bridge is the inability to collimate both of the tubes.
Copy/pasting from another comment, hopefully it helps :)
I would say in an urban situation (likely to be closer quarters work, and also decent ambient light, from streetlights, or even home lighting and whatnot) you should go for the dual tubes. I’ve always been issued a pvs14, and like Lucas said, there’s a lot I’ve valuable training that comes from being proficient with a single tube system, but duals just allow you to focus brain power elsewhere, instead of always trying to compute/combine your eyes’ two different images.
My unit is starting to get PVS31s, and they’re white phos, and it is amazing, and there IS a good difference in the amount of light they pick up, and perceived clarity of the image in low light, but like I said, in most situations that I imagine you’d encounter, green phos would suit you just fine.
I have a personal set of RNVGs that are green phos, and they perform super well with nothing but the light from a smoke detector in an otherwise pitch black room. It doesn’t take much, and like I said, they just allow me to not have to think about using the night vision, they’re just like putting on a pair of green glasses, and going to work.
Just my two cents, hope it helps.
Edit : Another thing to consider though, is having an eye that is already adjusted to low-light. With a single tube, you will always have an eye that’s ready to see in the dark for situations where your nods aren’t convenient (you’d probably have your nods focused out to infinite distance, so close-in work can be tricky unless you re-focus them, which is why it’s nice to have a focused naked eye sometimes)
I keep my duals focused out infinitely of course, but the remedy for this is to just get some scope caps, (butler creek makes the best ones) and drill small holes in the center of each. I keep them closed all the time, and they stay infinitely focused, but are also great at close-in work! If I need more light in the tubes, I can open and close the caps at will, without having to re-focus the objective lenses.
Just another thing to think about
Get some.
What are the best nightvision goggles to get and how to installed it?Quincy yee
What night-vision for when the doom music kicks in?
I didn’t think I could like your videos more, but your comments/ rant on hhv and American manufacturers has!! We in the 2a community need to push to buy more American made. Or at the very least anywhere but China!!! Awesome video btw!
I like to drink beer every night while looking at the stars with my NV haha
I fell in a damn hole in 05 carrying a M249 shorty wearing 7’s. Depth perception is horrible.
Get a 14 monocular.
Bro, once I get NV I’m going to be using them at least once a week.
Ops Core is the best helmet. I choose to stay away from Hard Headed Veterans, their helmets are from china. They are working on an American made helmet though, so that opinion could change.
Any recommendation on websites stores to get night vision? Thanks