i would advice to change the friction plates anyway. The plates don't cost much, and while you have the clutch apart just put new ones in. You will feel the difference. Very good video👍
Thank you Brian, did this job the other day, but I just air gunned that sucker for like 5 seconds and Bob's your uncle, it's working well, hopefully it's gonna continue to be that way :D
Thanks, my issue is this. My tensioner broke and tore a couple of the nuts off the plate. Bought the parts dropped the sump found the broken bits. The bolts actually broke some of the threaded leaves off of the hub so new hub as well. The actual basket has slight play, only slight, do you know if this is normal or should I be going deeper and replacing the needle bearing and such? Or does it just feel that way because I have all the plates and preasure plate off? The hub still in at this point as I didn't know about the tool to take the big nut off.
Check out another of my videos covering this and you will see Zero movement in the clutch basket when the ring gear is engaged with the crank gear..(and in the video I tried Both ZZR 1200 and ZRX 1200 clutch baskets in the engine during the build...) th-cam.com/video/j3v5t0Uw0uk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z0pNZ22aYVpPNVsQ Hope this helps.. BG
So I'm turning my engine over with socket, have my valve cover of don't see any fragments on top, but as I turn engine with wrench it's not a smooth 360, it feels hesitant at times. What's your suggestion next.? Makes a noise in front engine and clutch area when started..
the hesitant you feel will be a piston at its compression point. The noise will be the chain and tension-er from the crankshaft to the alternator/ starter motor. These chains need to be replaced every so often, see your manual.
Just put a new basket in ..ty. the thrust pusher will not go in all the way .."19:30 on your video". How do i get it to set flush againt clutch basket nut...?
Hi.,thanks for your question.. Is your "push rod" and your slave cylinder still in place? The clutch pusher will not fully seat if the push rod and slave cylinder have not been removed first during this process on account of the hydraulics in the system.. .....fit them last as indicated at the end of the video 👍 Hope this helps God bless BG.
Ok ty sir...so do I need to disassemble the clutch basket and then remove slave cylinder, or can I just remove slave cylinder (without redissasemble of clutch basket) ,then push clutch pusher in then replace slave cylinder again? Hope I'm making sense .ty for your knowledge!!
Just remove your clutch slave cylinder (be careful the piston does not want to push right out of it...,I restrain it with a zip tie until ready to fit again..) The long clutch push rod will be right behind that...(you can pull it out a little bit.,no need to pull it right out..) Your clutch pusher will then be able to fully seat (don't forget the Thrust bearing and spacers etc in their correct sequence..) 👍 After that its just plates..,pressure plate..,springs etc. Lastly push your clutch push rod fully home and refit the clutch slave cylinder..,cover etc.. Just follow the clutch assembly sequence on the video and you should be good to go.. Wishing you every success.. God bless BG
I put everything back together. Everything went in flawlessly...ty.... I had to replace the whole clutch basket because of the tensioner fail. Started the bike up today. Chatter clunky noise in the front area of the engine. What can this be in your opinion?
Could be innumerable reasons for that.. So seeing as you said your tensioner failed and broke your clutch basket since you needed to replace it, I would be guessing this is the source of this noise that was not there before I am assuming..?? It's quite common when a failure like that occurs some of the broken bits get sucked unto the rest of the engine...,around the crank gearing, etc.. Did you drain the oil and see any metal within it..?? Did you drop the oil pan and see any broken clutch/tensioner "bits" in there. Did you examine the crank gearing to see if any of the teeth have got chewed up.,distorted or damaged..? When a clutch/tensioner failure occurs, it is not sufficient to just retrieve some broken parts from within the immediate area (the clutch housing)....,many other small parts will be throughout the engine...,which is why it is imperative to inspect all those areas mentioned... Drain the oil once more.....,Remove the oil pan...(you will see some of my videos regarding that) I wish you well.. BG.
It's a TAG-Z motorcycle engine stand that I have modified by fitting lockable casters too.. Also changed out some of the bolts on the rotation device etc and added my own adapter rods and spacers to fit the ZRX/ZZR/GPZ engine series.. www.oro2u.com/engine-holder-atv-road-rebuilder-for-2-4-cylinder-9-4-kg-engine-stand God bless BG.
@@brianwells5258 Thanks Brian, I’ll look into that, as I needs to get myself sorted with a similar setup (I don’t fancy trying to do engine work on the garage floor, or even a bench. The ability to have clearance and stable work, looks like a real bonus. Another question, from your experience, is the standard ZRX clutch up for mild tuning (you mention ZZR bottom end?)? I’m worried that, coming from a smaller ‘sports’ bike, I might miss the slipper clutch (until I learn to relax into a different style of riding / bike) 🤔
@Gobert23 lots of videos on my channel regarding engine upgrades for the ZRX 1200.. I did mention the ZZR 1200 bottom end ...,and you could use that for an upgrade..,however you'd need to swap over the ZRX head onto it ....and also some work involved regarding the oil pan and oil pump etc.. You'd also have to switch out the ZZR rotor plate etc..etc. If you look through my videos here I opened my ZRX 1200 engine and fitted a ZZR 1100D six speed transmission (stock ZRX one is 5 speed) You also must switch over the output shaft spacer to get correct chain alignment for the ZRX... I also fitted ZZR 1200 pistons and rings since they are slightly higher compression.....,in addition I fitted ZZR 1200 cams into my ZRX 1200 head etc. (Have a look through my videos here on this channel for further details... Regarding clutch's for the ZRX 1200....,,here is another of my videos also covering a slipper clutch upgrade mod should you wish to go this route... th-cam.com/video/pHzVo1wfw6g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tzTrg1YaAbbolZU2 God bless BG.
@@brianwells5258 Hi Brian, I’ve been working my way through your videos, and finding them a great resource (nicely paced and good explanations. Do you think a hybrid ZZR and ZRX engine build is possible for a novice (like me)? I’ve a donor ZZR engine arriving soon (hopefully), and don’t want to make expensive mistakes over the winter (planned winter project), as my next step will be to plan for gaskets, seals and bearings, while I work out what bits will need to go where (immediate priority will be for ZZR gearbox, pistons and cams) Greg
Very much enjoyed this video, Brian. I've learned a lot, thank you 😊👍🏴.
Glad you enjoyed it.....,tried to make it all flow and be as clear and concise as possible..
BG.
i would advice to change the friction plates anyway. The plates don't cost much, and while you have the clutch apart just put new ones in.
You will feel the difference.
Very good video👍
Thanks...,glad you enjoyed it...
BG.
Thank you Brian, did this job the other day, but I just air gunned that sucker for like 5 seconds and Bob's your uncle, it's working well, hopefully it's gonna continue to be that way :D
Do you know the needle bearing dimensions, i plan to revise my clutch.
What size socket do I need for the clutch basket bolt? Ty
30mm (go for a 6 side socket if possible)
Thanks, my issue is this. My tensioner broke and tore a couple of the nuts off the plate. Bought the parts dropped the sump found the broken bits. The bolts actually broke some of the threaded leaves off of the hub so new hub as well. The actual basket has slight play, only slight, do you know if this is normal or should I be going deeper and replacing the needle bearing and such? Or does it just feel that way because I have all the plates and preasure plate off? The hub still in at this point as I didn't know about the tool to take the big nut off.
Check out another of my videos covering this and you will see Zero movement in the clutch basket when the ring gear is engaged with the crank gear..(and in the video I tried Both ZZR 1200 and ZRX 1200 clutch baskets in the engine during the build...)
th-cam.com/video/j3v5t0Uw0uk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z0pNZ22aYVpPNVsQ
Hope this helps..
BG
So I'm turning my engine over with socket, have my valve cover of don't see any fragments on top, but as I turn engine with wrench it's not a smooth 360, it feels hesitant at times. What's your suggestion next.? Makes a noise in front engine and clutch area when started..
the hesitant you feel will be a piston at its compression point.
The noise will be the chain and tension-er from the crankshaft to the alternator/ starter motor. These chains need to be replaced every so often, see your manual.
Just put a new basket in ..ty. the thrust pusher will not go in all the way .."19:30 on your video". How do i get it to set flush againt clutch basket nut...?
Hi.,thanks for your question..
Is your "push rod" and your slave cylinder still in place?
The clutch pusher will not fully seat if the push rod and slave cylinder have not been removed first during this process on account of the hydraulics in the system..
.....fit them last as indicated at the end of the video 👍
Hope this helps
God bless
BG.
Ok ty sir...so do I need to disassemble the clutch basket and then remove slave cylinder, or can I just remove slave cylinder (without redissasemble of clutch basket) ,then push clutch pusher in then replace slave cylinder again? Hope I'm making sense .ty for your knowledge!!
Just remove your clutch slave cylinder (be careful the piston does not want to push right out of it...,I restrain it with a zip tie until ready to fit again..)
The long clutch push rod will be right behind that...(you can pull it out a little bit.,no need to pull it right out..)
Your clutch pusher will then be able to fully seat (don't forget the Thrust bearing and spacers etc in their correct sequence..) 👍
After that its just plates..,pressure plate..,springs etc.
Lastly push your clutch push rod fully home and refit the clutch slave cylinder..,cover etc..
Just follow the clutch assembly sequence on the video and you should be good to go..
Wishing you every success..
God bless
BG
I put everything back together. Everything went in flawlessly...ty.... I had to replace the whole clutch basket because of the tensioner fail. Started the bike up today. Chatter clunky noise in the front area of the engine. What can this be in your opinion?
Could be innumerable reasons for that..
So seeing as you said your tensioner failed and broke your clutch basket since you needed to replace it, I would be guessing this is the source of this noise that was not there before I am assuming..??
It's quite common when a failure like that occurs some of the broken bits get sucked unto the rest of the engine...,around the crank gearing, etc..
Did you drain the oil and see any metal within it..??
Did you drop the oil pan and see any broken clutch/tensioner "bits" in there.
Did you examine the crank gearing to see if any of the teeth have got chewed up.,distorted or damaged..?
When a clutch/tensioner failure occurs, it is not sufficient to just retrieve some broken parts from within the immediate area (the clutch housing)....,many other small parts will be throughout the engine...,which is why it is imperative to inspect all those areas mentioned...
Drain the oil once more.....,Remove the oil pan...(you will see some of my videos regarding that)
I wish you well..
BG.
Could I ask what engine stand you’re using please?
It's a TAG-Z motorcycle engine stand that I have modified by fitting lockable casters too..
Also changed out some of the bolts on the rotation device etc and added my own adapter rods and spacers to fit the ZRX/ZZR/GPZ engine series..
www.oro2u.com/engine-holder-atv-road-rebuilder-for-2-4-cylinder-9-4-kg-engine-stand
God bless
BG.
@@brianwells5258 Thanks Brian, I’ll look into that, as I needs to get myself sorted with a similar setup (I don’t fancy trying to do engine work on the garage floor, or even a bench. The ability to have clearance and stable work, looks like a real bonus.
Another question, from your experience, is the standard ZRX clutch up for mild tuning (you mention ZZR bottom end?)? I’m worried that, coming from a smaller ‘sports’ bike, I might miss the slipper clutch (until I learn to relax into a different style of riding / bike) 🤔
@Gobert23 lots of videos on my channel regarding engine upgrades for the ZRX 1200..
I did mention the ZZR 1200 bottom end ...,and you could use that for an upgrade..,however you'd need to swap over the ZRX head onto it ....and also some work involved regarding the oil pan and oil pump etc..
You'd also have to switch out the ZZR rotor plate etc..etc.
If you look through my videos here I opened my ZRX 1200 engine and fitted a ZZR 1100D six speed transmission (stock ZRX one is 5 speed)
You also must switch over the output shaft spacer to get correct chain alignment for the ZRX...
I also fitted ZZR 1200 pistons and rings since they are slightly higher compression.....,in addition I fitted ZZR 1200 cams into my ZRX 1200 head etc.
(Have a look through my videos here on this channel for further details...
Regarding clutch's for the ZRX 1200....,,here is another of my videos also covering a slipper clutch upgrade mod should you wish to go this route...
th-cam.com/video/pHzVo1wfw6g/w-d-xo.htmlsi=tzTrg1YaAbbolZU2
God bless
BG.
@@brianwells5258 Hi Brian, I’ve been working my way through your videos, and finding them a great resource (nicely paced and good explanations. Do you think a hybrid ZZR and ZRX engine build is possible for a novice (like me)? I’ve a donor ZZR engine arriving soon (hopefully), and don’t want to make expensive mistakes over the winter (planned winter project), as my next step will be to plan for gaskets, seals and bearings, while I work out what bits will need to go where (immediate priority will be for ZZR gearbox, pistons and cams) Greg