Some pumps you would want to use a packing puller and not take the top off. It's import that you are trained on the type of pump you are working on. Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
Keep up the great content. I am a pump tech for over 15 years and to clarify a few things. You should be putting the seams on the glands at either 3,6,9,12 oclock or the other alternative way is opposite ends. (6 & 12) I make up my mind when attending a site. If the pump is really old and leaking badly, I will do opposite ends as the water has to travel further so it naturally slows it down. You also want to cut the gland packing at 90° for applications that intend to leak. Things like OS&Y valves you would cut it at 45° so it over laps and never leaks. Lastly you shouldn’t need to bed the gland in as much as your referring to. If you having to tighten and loosen to get it right. You have done it wrong. Run the pump for 5 minutes with the glands loose and then tighten and it should be sweet. Yes there is a rule of thumb for gland packing regardless of their age. It’s 20 drops per minute per 1” of shaft diameter. Manufactures say this is not a critical number so anything under or over is fine but it’s a good starting point. Hope this helps, keep up the videos.
You can hit those glands with a wire wheel.Shine Em up make them look brand new or drop in the moretic acid shines them right up.Same thing with the bolts.We'll make them look brand new
I’ve got a question for ya. 5 year hydrostatic FDC test on a stand alone FDC out in the customers yard. Obviously I’d think whoever installed it put the check and ball drip underground before it tied into the underground pipe. How do you get it to hold pressure then lol
That is a problem. Technically it should be accessible through a manhole. If not, it would have to be dug up and corrected so it is in an accessible pit. NFPA13 explains how this should be done. It also states the ball drip and check valve shall be accessible for inspection. Have fun telling the customer that news. I have had freestanding FDCs where the check was inside but the underground piping wouldn't hold pressure. I had to dig until I found the problem. One was because they buried the ball drip underground and it was stuck open. It wasn't even needed out there because the water drained back to the check valve inside. So I installed a ball drip inside and plugged the one outside. Sometimes it's easier to reroute a new FDC and abandon the old. Obviously remove the old connection.
Good job guys, I guess you can't use teflon pipe dope on it, for whatever reason, I know they or I'm sure the manufacture has their reasons for everything not to do.
Some pumps you would want to use a packing puller and not take the top off. It's import that you are trained on the type of pump you are working on.
Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
Look like you know what you're doing.Keep up the good workman.I do about a point a day sometimes too
Keep up the great content.
I am a pump tech for over 15 years and to clarify a few things. You should be putting the seams on the glands at either 3,6,9,12 oclock or the other alternative way is opposite ends. (6 & 12) I make up my mind when attending a site. If the pump is really old and leaking badly, I will do opposite ends as the water has to travel further so it naturally slows it down.
You also want to cut the gland packing at 90° for applications that intend to leak. Things like OS&Y valves you would cut it at 45° so it over laps and never leaks.
Lastly you shouldn’t need to bed the gland in as much as your referring to. If you having to tighten and loosen to get it right. You have done it wrong. Run the pump for 5 minutes with the glands loose and then tighten and it should be sweet.
Yes there is a rule of thumb for gland packing regardless of their age. It’s 20 drops per minute per 1” of shaft diameter. Manufactures say this is not a critical number so anything under or over is fine but it’s a good starting point.
Hope this helps, keep up the videos.
You can hit those glands with a wire wheel.Shine Em up make them look brand new or drop in the moretic acid shines them right up.Same thing with the bolts.We'll make them look brand new
This guy is amazing and god sent. My idiol
I’ve got a question for ya. 5 year hydrostatic FDC test on a stand alone FDC out in the customers yard. Obviously I’d think whoever installed it put the check and ball drip underground before it tied into the underground pipe. How do you get it to hold pressure then lol
That is a problem. Technically it should be accessible through a manhole. If not, it would have to be dug up and corrected so it is in an accessible pit. NFPA13 explains how this should be done. It also states the ball drip and check valve shall be accessible for inspection.
Have fun telling the customer that news. I have had freestanding FDCs where the check was inside but the underground piping wouldn't hold pressure. I had to dig until I found the problem. One was because they buried the ball drip underground and it was stuck open. It wasn't even needed out there because the water drained back to the check valve inside. So I installed a ball drip inside and plugged the one outside. Sometimes it's easier to reroute a new FDC and abandon the old. Obviously remove the old connection.
Good job guys, I guess you can't use teflon pipe dope on it, for whatever reason, I know they or I'm sure the manufacture has their reasons for everything not to do.