I'm actually really curious what he sees from a lubrication standpoint when he tears these engines down, if he can tell in higher horsepower engines if the oil is actually protecting everything or people need to run thicker oil. Is oil being overheated in spots, and if cores he has received had extended oil change intervals, etc.
I like your pods casts. Very informative! Been a mech for 45 years. Started getting paid as a knuckle buster at 15. Rebuilt my first ntc 350 at 16. Grew up in Forks wa. It was called the logging capital of the world. Saw a lit of engines and learned from some of the best. Cummins made a lot of money at there. The guys comment of how and why the piston has the failure at the pin is spot on! Saw guys pushing a small can 350 and 400 up towards the 600 hp. Running twin turbos. To be honest, they didn't last long with the heavy harks and hills. Get the timing off on igniting and there will be some serious piston damage
Really loved this episode! Those SoA pistons sound like an absolute treasure! I'm just hoping they'll one day be available for the 6.5L........ My wet dream would be an optimizer 6500 block with a forged crank and SoA pistons. And then I'd go and make that twin turbo for good measure! For longevity mostly. Power is always second to reliability!
I'm a diesel mechanic and I've built a lot of engines over my career the first time a customer comes in with any engine I tell them hey look these are the weak points if it's a stock LML and they don't plan to add power I tell them this is a big issue and just because you dont tune it doesnt mean you are immune to it so you might want to address it preemptively and just a crank bearings rings and honing the cylinders is good for a stock truck if they want to bump up the power i suggest hey look pistons a crank and head studs you really shoukd do this preemptively because as he said youve got about a 50/50 shot of the block being damaged and then the bill goes up substantially and some people recieve that well and others think im just trying to upsell them and more often its the performance guys are the customers who actually listen I genuinely mean to save people down the road and with an LML i always suggest a CP3 conversion wether its stock or tuned its so much cheaper to preemptively prevent having to buy a pump AND a disaster kit I play the long game and some people appreciate it some don't and I try to run off the people who arent willing to listen or think I'm just trying to milk them I just tell them the cold hard truth love me or hate me thats what you need to do to keep your truck reliable
Patrick here is a suggestion: there is virtually ZERO content out there that differentiates the Long Blocks between the LML and L5P Duramax. We all know about the air and fueling, but what are the differences between the bottom end improvements over the LML (mains, crank, rods, etc). Why does an L5P have the capability of hitting 1000hp since the LMLs tend to snap the crank. What are the common problems that engine builders see. So basically, a follow on with this podcast with one that is devoted to the LP5 Duramax similar to this one. Thanks!
In the uk you don't have trucks that tow more than 7800 LBS, The thought of owning a car or suv towing at max tow for 30k plus miles you know what the result will be.
I have a 1972 dodge W100. It is a heavy half ton.360 v8 with a 727 automatic trans. Was hauling fill Rock to my property on a 2 axle car trailer and the short bed pick up. I would use my hillbilly overloads, 4x4 blocks, bergen the rear axle and frame. Would load a 1 1/2 yards in the bed and 3 yards on the trailer. Over did it once and left the pit with 18,600 pounds. Had to lock it in 4x4 low to get going. Was about 13 miles.
Oh and LB7 head gasket jobs I will not install anything but fleece cup less heads the price difference is so miniscule you get a brand new head without the cups that's going to last you alot longer I run them on my personal LB7 with ARP studs and I'll die on that hill most of the LB7 core heads the cup bore where the tip goes through the head has been eroded away and you will chase never ending cup failures even with the kits that claim to hold the cups in place that's great but if the bore is eroded away combustion case just leaks around the tips of the cups and there's no permanent fix we are dealing with a 20+ year old aluminum heads theyre just worn out and in my area having the heads machined is about $985 each with new cups i can buy a set of fleece heads and sell them fir $1,200 each it's a no brainier $600 added to an already high bill for peace of mind is worth it
Love the LML content!
I'm actually really curious what he sees from a lubrication standpoint when he tears these engines down, if he can tell in higher horsepower engines if the oil is actually protecting everything or people need to run thicker oil. Is oil being overheated in spots, and if cores he has received had extended oil change intervals, etc.
I like your pods casts. Very informative!
Been a mech for 45 years. Started getting paid as a knuckle buster at 15. Rebuilt my first ntc 350 at 16.
Grew up in Forks wa. It was called the logging capital of the world.
Saw a lit of engines and learned from some of the best. Cummins made a lot of money at there.
The guys comment of how and why the piston has the failure at the pin is spot on! Saw guys pushing a small can 350 and 400 up towards the 600 hp. Running twin turbos. To be honest, they didn't last long with the heavy harks and hills.
Get the timing off on igniting and there will be some serious piston damage
Really loved this episode! Those SoA pistons sound like an absolute treasure!
I'm just hoping they'll one day be available for the 6.5L........
My wet dream would be an optimizer 6500 block with a forged crank and SoA pistons. And then I'd go and make that twin turbo for good measure!
For longevity mostly. Power is always second to reliability!
I'm a diesel mechanic and I've built a lot of engines over my career the first time a customer comes in with any engine I tell them hey look these are the weak points if it's a stock LML and they don't plan to add power I tell them this is a big issue and just because you dont tune it doesnt mean you are immune to it so you might want to address it preemptively and just a crank bearings rings and honing the cylinders is good for a stock truck if they want to bump up the power i suggest hey look pistons a crank and head studs you really shoukd do this preemptively because as he said youve got about a 50/50 shot of the block being damaged and then the bill goes up substantially and some people recieve that well and others think im just trying to upsell them and more often its the performance guys are the customers who actually listen I genuinely mean to save people down the road and with an LML i always suggest a CP3 conversion wether its stock or tuned its so much cheaper to preemptively prevent having to buy a pump AND a disaster kit I play the long game and some people appreciate it some don't and I try to run off the people who arent willing to listen or think I'm just trying to milk them I just tell them the cold hard truth love me or hate me thats what you need to do to keep your truck reliable
Patrick here is a suggestion: there is virtually ZERO content out there that differentiates the Long Blocks between the LML and L5P Duramax. We all know about the air and fueling, but what are the differences between the bottom end improvements over the LML (mains, crank, rods, etc). Why does an L5P have the capability of hitting 1000hp since the LMLs tend to snap the crank. What are the common problems that engine builders see.
So basically, a follow on with this podcast with one that is devoted to the LP5 Duramax similar to this one. Thanks!
Thank you for the suggestion!
Wouldn’t you be able to use a l5p long block
In the uk you don't have trucks that tow more than 7800 LBS, The thought of owning a car or suv towing at max tow for 30k plus miles you know what the result will be.
Has nothing to do with what he’s talking about. Be quiet. Plenty of North American trucks do that.
I have a 1972 dodge W100. It is a heavy half ton.360 v8 with a 727 automatic trans.
Was hauling fill Rock to my property on a 2 axle car trailer and the short bed pick up.
I would use my hillbilly overloads, 4x4 blocks, bergen the rear axle and frame. Would load a 1 1/2 yards in the bed and 3 yards on the trailer.
Over did it once and left the pit with 18,600 pounds. Had to lock it in 4x4 low to get going. Was about 13 miles.
Oh and LB7 head gasket jobs I will not install anything but fleece cup less heads the price difference is so miniscule you get a brand new head without the cups that's going to last you alot longer I run them on my personal LB7 with ARP studs and I'll die on that hill most of the LB7 core heads the cup bore where the tip goes through the head has been eroded away and you will chase never ending cup failures even with the kits that claim to hold the cups in place that's great but if the bore is eroded away combustion case just leaks around the tips of the cups and there's no permanent fix we are dealing with a 20+ year old aluminum heads theyre just worn out and in my area having the heads machined is about $985 each with new cups i can buy a set of fleece heads and sell them fir $1,200 each it's a no brainier $600 added to an already high bill for peace of mind is worth it
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