Tip: 1. Loosen the flange / shaft nuts before you set about removing the subframe/axle. They are on at 200 to 240Nm. Purdy tight for a breaker bar job. I forgot to and its a child born outta wedlock to loosen them when the subframe's on the ground. 2. BEFORE you lower the trolley jack when you are dropping the rear axle: Put the tyre wheels back on with two wheel nuts. Not too tight, Just tight enough. This means if the scenario falls off balance or off the trolley jack, the tyres stop the damage to the brake dust shields. Plus you can then roll out the axle on real wheels, not trolley jack wheels. 3. For those of us without an impact ratchet gun: Loosen the shaft-differential bolts by keeping the tyre wheels on and chocking them. I chocked with a timber piece and loads of concrete blocks on top it for good measure. 4. The Germans think linear. This means anytime you are stuck, think; There is a logical easy way. (Handbrake cable example). E.g.: To get the handbrake cable of the linkage mid belly on a W124 underside; you need more cable. So you think... Hmmnnn. Maybe I will lever the damn thing just that extra half inch. This is not linear thinking you Irish fool. Answer: Go outside to the hub, open - actually Unfold (It is that german easy) the metal bit the handbrake cable plugs into outside the brake dust shield. Once this little bar thing is unfolded, pop the rivet easily out. Its not glued in or anything. Don't loose it. Then you can pull the brake cable backwards out to be free. Do this on BOTH sides. This allows you to go back mid belly under the W124 to the linkage bit and get the cable off the hook using only the fingers god / evolution gave you 5. The Exhaust Removing this is easier than you think. Always remove the hard to get to nut/bolt first. If you do the easy one first, more strain is put on the other nut/bolt and it makes it tighter to move. Re: W124 non-turbo exhaust on an E250D Two bolts hold the exhaust to the manifold exit; 13mm bolts (Accessible from under) and two 12mm nuts accessible a-top. Tip: The nut you cant see - not your ex girlfriend one; stick with the car: is easier than making tea and lamenting. Wrap the knuckle end of a wee 12mm spanner with something to stop it making scratches. I used duct-tape. Bear with me on this. Then: Put the ring end of the same wee 12mm spanner on the nut you cant see and leave it on. Should hold. If it doesn't, blue-tack it of use a friend. MasterCard wont work. Then go under the car (assuming it is safe to do so) and put your extension on your ratchet raising your 13mm socket to the respective bolt. Begin to undo and if/when turning the bolt turns the nut a-top, the wee spanner should jam against I don't know what and bobs your neighbor. This is a kind of a not rocket science tip, but its still better than putting an ache in your lower back. The mid-belly exhaust rubber support can be lowered by undoing the bolt of its mount. Rather than trying to lift the exhaust to try and get the rubber off the hook. 6. The ABS sensor is stuck in the differential like I'd like to be in my sister in law. Here's how to get the thing out and save it. On the W124 E250D the knuckle end of both a 17mm and a 19mm spanner fit snug enough around the ABS sensor housing to allow low-pressure levering to wiggle some movement. After you've removed the securing bolt obviously. This wiggling should get the sensor moving out some millimeters. Now think linear again: Do not pry with metal on metal. Choose what spanner will work and put a comfy rag over the knuckle end and offer the gap of the spanner up to the gap you want to persuade to widen. I then levered gently and gained more sensor out. This thing is longer than you think. (Stay on track funny guy) Now do something totally odd; Tap the sensor back in - after you wipe the shaft of it clean and then apply a few drops of differential oil. Not all the way back in. Just a bit. Then start with the wiggle again. Then the spanner/rag levering again. As the gap gets bigger with luck or repeating the Clean shaft/Drops of oil/tap in again (I'm not going there); think smart and hold two spanners together before draping the rag and offering it up to the bigger gap. Once I had nearly an inch out I was able and lucky enough I guess to finish the job using my hand only. I tried to think of some other way to say that but I'm too lazy and honestly what the hell its friday here anyways. I've fish to grill. 7. Money: I dont know if this link will stick on here but its handy to look up your VIN and then parts numbers anyways so I'll try. When I shop parts I just type in the OEM part number and get results on the usual places where people go searching . No names mentioned. The link is below this rant, Here's the prices I found last night for my E250D non-turbo stuff. The prices are Uk sterling and not a reference, Just an idea of what prices I found. I only jptted down Lemfordr or Febi prices and OEm where I came across them for the craic. Rear axle stuff: Make sure you get part numbers based on your VIN. These below are a reference guess based on my VIN and I was really tired and cant stand behind them being accurate. Camber strut: UK20 to 30 or UK67 OEM A210 350 3406 Torque strut UK 15 A210 350 3306 or 3406 I think. Tie rod UK24 or UK78 OEM A210 350 2153 Thrust arm UK22 or UK61 OEM A210 350 3806 Spring link (The arm the spring goes onto) UK130ish. The listing said 'MB' brand. No idea of the truth on that. Wheel carrier: Wait for it: UK619.00 OEM A202 350 9508 or 9408 Holy sh.... DO NOT damage one. Flange: UK150 A124 350 0846 Axle shaft (I think complete) : UK139 and I think thats a Lemfordr / OEM, dunno . 15-hole disc wheel OEM I think is B664 700 19 and they have NO 8-hole alloys left I think. Bummer. Front exhaust pipe (BOSAL brand) w/box UK190 A124 490 5220 or 5320 Centre exhaust (dunno brand) w/box I think Euro200 circa number. A 124 490 1535 Right - fish.
Click Ireland btw, do you know if the m104 axle shafts are available there? The 129 350 38 10 specifically. Regarding the wheels i have 16” 8 holes to refurb for red. Assuming i dont change my mind yet again. I keep seeing amg 17” monoblocks for sale every time i have no money and then they are sold when i do. It must be a sign i am not to have amg wheels.
@@MMWA-DAVE Ta. Your delightful videos started me on Bruno. Drove this E250D happily for three years and parked it up for the last three. Just dropped the rear axle yesterday and good christ in Ireland here we go. But the engine runs like the engineering masterpiece it is. Do keep the videos coming. They are extremely helpful and I'll add rants I think useful when appropriate and now I'm burning chips I gotta run. Cheers, Sean.
@@MMWA-DAVE Not one single bank loan manager owns a spanner. Ive New and Pre-owned news for you. A search using the 3810 part number frightened a lot of websites. Nought shows on a quick search for that part number. However; aftermarket NEW: A not so quick search on eHay UK produces axle shafts listed to fit a 300-24V 124.031 model sedan car (132KW power and 2960cc (without ASD). OEM ref: 124 350 29 10 Please don’t shoot me. I do know the 38 was the right number. I always think its funny they go on to say fitment is at the rear axle. Anyways, the above 29 10: This seller is NB Parts in Forchheim, Germany. Priced at UK119.27 (AUS 234) for a pair. Shipping isn’t on for Australia but it would be Free to my UK address. I live in Ireland but I have a delivery address in Northern Ireland because its usually free and it does get there swiftly. Postage to me in Ireland can take weeks. I have no idea. Plus where my friend lives in Northern Ireland is 30 minutes from my house. I get free tea too. Though I do have to mow her lawn in the Summer. She is an adorable lady who underpays me for the lawn but that’s life. Her daughters are goddesses and I keep hoping their respective husbands will fall in love with each other. You’ll have AMG wheels first I think. Parts: A happy English speaking German has a reconditioned 3810 shaft. Might have two. Certainly has W124 stuff. Go on eHay UK (You know the correct spelling) and put the part number in. Or ring him. He is 10 hours behind you I’d imagine. His mobile +49 172 890 8807 Landline +49 89 50 9732 Priced on ehay here at Euro 249 + 49 shipping to Australia. (That’s 423 AUS Dolls + 83.26) If you want to give me the relevant ‘Model’ and the .98 you want the shafts for I can do a better search on a few sellers’ sites here. I’m pretty familiar on them. mbspecialist.com/mercedes_webcatalog/item/1293503810B/ Above has one for Euro334 benzcat.com/part_number/A%20129%20350%2038%2010 Above shows the referenced models the 3810 fits. You probably know this but here’s it again. www.cvjreman.com/mercedes/ The above apparently (in a forum) know Mercedes axles well. They make new shafts to OEM spec. email might be better for this if you like. My user name (all one word) at ya hoo and ireland extension (dot ie). I’m eleven hours and several decades of sunshine behind you. Also, Ive 15” 8-hole to refurb for Bruno. Where you got the 16’s Ive no idea. AMG personally I think belong on an AMG. Just my thinking. By the way, this project all started with a spring that came loose from the emergency brake shoe. I could hear this noise so investigated. Bought the full shoe kits. Put em in. Put rear shocks on. Opened the delivery valve to replace o rings and three years of driving other cars later I’m now dropping the rear axle and I’ve cut the exhaust in half because I should have taken a tea break. I’ll be hung for a sheep.
Merry Christmas ta all of you) I live in Russia , so subframe bolts are nigntmare to take of, because of winters, salts etc. Thought it is much easier in warm countries , but that's not the case as we see)
Александр Лампович on my gray car i think it was over enthusiastic application of thread locker at the factory - as mentioned i felt like it was ripping the threads out with the bolts. There was no rust at all on those bolts. On this red car there was some rust on the unused parts of the bolt threads. Ill clean them up before re-use.
Tip:
1. Loosen the flange / shaft nuts before you set about removing the subframe/axle.
They are on at 200 to 240Nm. Purdy tight for a breaker bar job.
I forgot to and its a child born outta wedlock to loosen them when the subframe's on the ground.
2. BEFORE you lower the trolley jack when you are dropping the rear axle: Put the tyre wheels back on with two wheel nuts. Not too tight, Just tight enough.
This means if the scenario falls off balance or off the trolley jack, the tyres stop the damage to the brake dust shields.
Plus you can then roll out the axle on real wheels, not trolley jack wheels.
3. For those of us without an impact ratchet gun:
Loosen the shaft-differential bolts by keeping the tyre wheels on and chocking them.
I chocked with a timber piece and loads of concrete blocks on top it for good measure.
4. The Germans think linear.
This means anytime you are stuck, think; There is a logical easy way.
(Handbrake cable example).
E.g.: To get the handbrake cable of the linkage mid belly on a W124 underside; you need more cable.
So you think... Hmmnnn. Maybe I will lever the damn thing just that extra half inch.
This is not linear thinking you Irish fool.
Answer: Go outside to the hub, open - actually Unfold (It is that german easy) the metal bit the handbrake cable plugs into outside the brake dust shield.
Once this little bar thing is unfolded, pop the rivet easily out. Its not glued in or anything.
Don't loose it.
Then you can pull the brake cable backwards out to be free.
Do this on BOTH sides.
This allows you to go back mid belly under the W124 to the linkage bit and get the cable off the hook using only the fingers god / evolution gave you
5. The Exhaust
Removing this is easier than you think.
Always remove the hard to get to nut/bolt first.
If you do the easy one first, more strain is put on the other nut/bolt and it makes it tighter to move.
Re: W124 non-turbo exhaust on an E250D
Two bolts hold the exhaust to the manifold exit; 13mm bolts (Accessible from under)
and two 12mm nuts accessible a-top.
Tip: The nut you cant see - not your ex girlfriend one; stick with the car: is easier than making tea and lamenting.
Wrap the knuckle end of a wee 12mm spanner with something to stop it making scratches.
I used duct-tape. Bear with me on this.
Then: Put the ring end of the same wee 12mm spanner on the nut you cant see and leave it on. Should hold.
If it doesn't, blue-tack it of use a friend. MasterCard wont work.
Then go under the car (assuming it is safe to do so) and put your extension on your ratchet raising your 13mm socket to the respective bolt.
Begin to undo and if/when turning the bolt turns the nut a-top, the wee spanner should jam against I don't know what and bobs your neighbor.
This is a kind of a not rocket science tip, but its still better than putting an ache in your lower back.
The mid-belly exhaust rubber support can be lowered by undoing the bolt of its mount.
Rather than trying to lift the exhaust to try and get the rubber off the hook.
6. The ABS sensor is stuck in the differential like I'd like to be in my sister in law.
Here's how to get the thing out and save it.
On the W124 E250D the knuckle end of both a 17mm and a 19mm spanner fit snug enough around the ABS sensor housing to allow low-pressure levering to wiggle some movement.
After you've removed the securing bolt obviously.
This wiggling should get the sensor moving out some millimeters.
Now think linear again: Do not pry with metal on metal.
Choose what spanner will work and put a comfy rag over the knuckle end and offer the gap of the spanner up to the gap you want to persuade to widen.
I then levered gently and gained more sensor out.
This thing is longer than you think.
(Stay on track funny guy)
Now do something totally odd; Tap the sensor back in - after you wipe the shaft of it clean and then apply a few drops of differential oil.
Not all the way back in. Just a bit.
Then start with the wiggle again. Then the spanner/rag levering again.
As the gap gets bigger with luck or repeating the Clean shaft/Drops of oil/tap in again (I'm not going there);
think smart and hold two spanners together before draping the rag and offering it up to the bigger gap.
Once I had nearly an inch out I was able and lucky enough I guess to finish the job using my hand only.
I tried to think of some other way to say that but I'm too lazy and honestly what the hell its friday here anyways. I've fish to grill.
7. Money:
I dont know if this link will stick on here but its handy to look up your VIN and then parts numbers anyways so I'll try. When I shop parts I just type in the OEM part number and get results on the usual places where people go searching . No names mentioned.
The link is below this rant, Here's the prices I found last night for my E250D non-turbo stuff.
The prices are Uk sterling and not a reference, Just an idea of what prices I found. I only jptted down Lemfordr or Febi prices and OEm where I came across them for the craic.
Rear axle stuff: Make sure you get part numbers based on your VIN. These below are a reference guess based on my VIN and I was really tired and cant stand behind them being accurate.
Camber strut: UK20 to 30 or UK67 OEM A210 350 3406
Torque strut UK 15 A210 350 3306 or 3406 I think.
Tie rod UK24 or UK78 OEM A210 350 2153
Thrust arm UK22 or UK61 OEM A210 350 3806
Spring link (The arm the spring goes onto) UK130ish. The listing said 'MB' brand. No idea of the truth on that.
Wheel carrier: Wait for it: UK619.00 OEM A202 350 9508 or 9408
Holy sh....
DO NOT damage one.
Flange: UK150 A124 350 0846
Axle shaft (I think complete) : UK139 and I think thats a Lemfordr / OEM, dunno .
15-hole disc wheel OEM I think is B664 700 19 and they have NO 8-hole alloys left I think.
Bummer.
Front exhaust pipe (BOSAL brand) w/box UK190 A124 490 5220 or 5320
Centre exhaust (dunno brand) w/box I think Euro200 circa number. A 124 490 1535
Right - fish.
Click Ireland good write up. Glad to see an active community of diy’ers. We gotta keep these cars on the road and out of the recyclers.
Click Ireland btw, do you know if the m104 axle shafts are available there? The 129 350 38 10 specifically. Regarding the wheels i have 16” 8 holes to refurb for red. Assuming i dont change my mind yet again. I keep seeing amg 17” monoblocks for sale every time i have no money and then they are sold when i do. It must be a sign i am not to have amg wheels.
@@MMWA-DAVE Ta.
Your delightful videos started me on Bruno.
Drove this E250D happily for three years and parked it up for the last three. Just dropped the rear axle yesterday and good christ in Ireland here we go.
But the engine runs like the engineering masterpiece it is.
Do keep the videos coming. They are extremely helpful and I'll add rants I think useful when appropriate and now I'm burning chips I gotta run. Cheers, Sean.
@@MMWA-DAVE Not one single bank loan manager owns a spanner.
Ive New and Pre-owned news for you.
A search using the 3810 part number frightened a lot of websites.
Nought shows on a quick search for that part number.
However; aftermarket NEW:
A not so quick search on eHay UK produces axle shafts listed to fit a 300-24V 124.031 model sedan car (132KW power and 2960cc (without ASD). OEM ref: 124 350 29 10
Please don’t shoot me. I do know the 38 was the right number.
I always think its funny they go on to say fitment is at the rear axle.
Anyways, the above 29 10: This seller is NB Parts in Forchheim, Germany.
Priced at UK119.27 (AUS 234) for a pair.
Shipping isn’t on for Australia but it would be Free to my UK address.
I live in Ireland but I have a delivery address in Northern Ireland because its usually free and it does get there swiftly.
Postage to me in Ireland can take weeks. I have no idea.
Plus where my friend lives in Northern Ireland is 30 minutes from my house.
I get free tea too. Though I do have to mow her lawn in the Summer.
She is an adorable lady who underpays me for the lawn but that’s life.
Her daughters are goddesses and I keep hoping their respective husbands will fall in love with each other. You’ll have AMG wheels first I think.
Parts:
A happy English speaking German has a reconditioned 3810 shaft. Might have two.
Certainly has W124 stuff.
Go on eHay UK (You know the correct spelling) and put the part number in.
Or ring him. He is 10 hours behind you I’d imagine.
His mobile +49 172 890 8807
Landline +49 89 50 9732
Priced on ehay here at Euro 249 + 49 shipping to Australia.
(That’s 423 AUS Dolls + 83.26)
If you want to give me the relevant ‘Model’ and the .98 you want the shafts for I can do a better search on a few sellers’ sites here. I’m pretty familiar on them.
mbspecialist.com/mercedes_webcatalog/item/1293503810B/
Above has one for Euro334
benzcat.com/part_number/A%20129%20350%2038%2010
Above shows the referenced models the 3810 fits.
You probably know this but here’s it again.
www.cvjreman.com/mercedes/
The above apparently (in a forum) know Mercedes axles well.
They make new shafts to OEM spec.
email might be better for this if you like. My user name (all one word) at ya hoo and ireland extension (dot ie).
I’m eleven hours and several decades of sunshine behind you.
Also, Ive 15” 8-hole to refurb for Bruno. Where you got the 16’s Ive no idea.
AMG personally I think belong on an AMG. Just my thinking.
By the way, this project all started with a spring that came loose from the emergency brake shoe. I could hear this noise so investigated. Bought the full shoe kits. Put em in. Put rear shocks on. Opened the delivery valve to replace o rings and three years of driving other cars later I’m now dropping the rear axle and I’ve cut the exhaust in half because I should have taken a tea break.
I’ll be hung for a sheep.
@@MMWA-DAVE Ok: Just found this:
Euro 531.35
www.fixparts-online.com/en/mercedes-benz-axle-assembly-a1293503810.html
tel.: +44 14 184 61 184 or e-mail: sales@fixparts-online.com
Also: Euro 588.10
Bayerischer Taxi-Einkauf Schißlbauer GmbH, Schulstraße 5, D-92272 Freudenberg
Telephone: +49 (0) 9627 - 920220, Email: info@carparts-pros.com.
www.carparts-pros.com/page_1_3.php#oeformo
Merry Christmas ta all of you) I live in Russia , so subframe bolts are nigntmare to take of, because of winters, salts etc. Thought it is much easier in warm countries , but that's not the case as we see)
Александр Лампович on my gray car i think it was over enthusiastic application of thread locker at the factory - as mentioned i felt like it was ripping the threads out with the bolts. There was no rust at all on those bolts. On this red car there was some rust on the unused parts of the bolt threads. Ill clean them up before re-use.
Thanks for the video, ive seen some guides saying you do have to remove fuel lines? But that is not the case then?
the main fuel feed hose from the tank goes through the subframe. Unfortunately this is unavoidable.
saludos desde venezuela amigo feliz navidad
Merry Christmas
REDKILLER Same to you, I cant wait to get some serious work done on my w124 project
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