Ripper 37 Sawmill Blades Have Arrived! (First Blade Change in 5 Years!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Exciting times here at SWS as I open up a brand new box of Ripper 37 sawmill blades and compare them to my old Lenox sawmill blades that I've been using for years. I've heard the hype about the Ripper 37 sawmill blades and today I'm seeing what that hype is all about. I'll also be investigating what makes the Ripper 37 bandsaw mill blades different from other sawmill blades and why they claim their blades stay sharper for so much longer. Here we go!
Ripper 37's can be purchased from:
In the USA - Jerry’s Resharp Inc
bit.ly/3LX4TYl
In Canada - Honig Industrial Equipment
bit.ly/46qB36Z
In the UK - UK - Supersharp
bit.ly/3M2eaP9
@Dakinflathers
It’s just 5 am here in CA. Im up, took the dog potty and decided I can’t sleep so I’m gonna see what’s going on with the TH-cam.
To my surprise Sandy has a new vid uploaded! Here I am, a city boy, having never used a sawmill (but I want to) watching the difference in saw blades. Lovely. Spiked that 👍🏽
Glad to have ya along this morning. Just have to get the sludge heated up and you'll be good to go haha.
I was surprised when I went to the site and looked up my Sawmill, the Ripper 37 blades were cheaper than the Cook’s brand I used since getting the mill. Thanks for another great video
That's a bonus right there!
I’m glad you like the new blades . Happy sawing!
Thanks John. Going well so far
Now you need a good solution to keep those blades pitch free.
Loved the video, and your timing is impeccable. I've got a few blades left from my original purchase of the sawmill a year ago and have been researching. As usual, you were the go-to guy all along, and that's a "beautiful "thing. Keep on keeping on!!!
I appreciate you supporting me on the channel all the way along Tom!
Good morning, Sandy! My favorite Canadian youtuber... well my favorite youtuber period!
I appreciate that! Thank you for your support. Hope you're doing well here this morning
I have found it's always good to try new things. You never know what something will do until you try it out. Looks like these blades are a big winner. Great video Sandy.
For sure Jeff. I like to try things out whenever I can just to be sure I"m not missing out. Good to have you along for the video and as always I appreciate your support!
From the lips of "Sandy" came those haunting words..... "If I am making a mistake, please mention it"! Sandy, as a sawyer, your spot on with the trees you are working with. I am concerned with that trash pile that you said you were going to keep organized better. Its always a rough thing in the winter months so you might want to push it out of the way or what ever you have planned for it..... I hope you take this as just a helpful advisement as you work so very hard and try harder than a dang good many to do your level best. I do care about you Sandy.
Thanks Morgan
I have been using Ripper 37 blades for over 2 years with no complaints I saw everything from pine, redwood, and oak to hardwoods like elm and black locust. I also resharpen my blades and the Ripper 37 work just as good resharpened as they do when they are new
Great to hear that they do great with a variety of trees
Sandy, looks like u had made a good buy with the Ripper 37 Blades. stay warm..
Thanks Billy!
Nice report on something new to me Sandy. Thanks.
Thanks John!
Good morning, Sandy! As the late, great Canadian actor, Leslie Neilson, would say, "Let'er Rip"! 😂 Beautiful cut by that blade. It will be interesting to see how it does in harder wood, but by the looks of things, I don't think that there will be any issues. Greetings from Peterborough.
Let'er Rip!! Looking forward to some long-term testing of the blades. Hope you're enjoying a cooler bit of weather here for us Ken
I have been using Ripper blades since 2017 i just love working with them. You made a good choice Sandy.
Good Morning Sandy I will be contacting Jerry to get more info on blade for my Hudson mill, Paul Hawkins said he was using Cotton Spindle Oil which I looked up and found the Oil is water soluble just like I use on my metal cutting machines. Good to know someone else has used the same oil. Enjoyed the video today Cheers!
Thanks for that John. I'm going to have to see where I can get some of that oil. I like the sounds of how it works
Glad you finally decided to make a change and bring us along the journey. Looking forward to seeing how they last and how they sharpen up with your setup.
Thanks Earl. I’m looking forward to how they do over the long haul too
I switched to Ripper37 last year and I've been extremely happy. Great company to deal with as well. Great video.
I'm looking forward to putting some miles on these blades. So far so good!
thanks for the education. I never paid attention to the degrees because where I get my blades are from a local dealer who makes blades and they said they make and resharpen for alot of locals, so I just get what everyone else gets. They have a good price at 6.50 for sharpening and 13.50 new. I don't know if thats good or bad but it works for me. thanks again Sandy
Can't go wrong there Noel!
Sandy on my hm 126 i used the double hard woodmyser blade for about two years now and i love them In 2015 when i both my mill the spec with the tork wrench said 35 pound and I been using that from beginning , when i put a brand new blade the cut is very smooth no blade mark at all .
When you where showing the first part i did notice that your blade was jumpy even with the second one there a little bit but not much my mill is 8 year old and it is not jumping like that at all i will say double check all your setting and thighness on every thing but maybe it is because your mill is expandable in the wit that it does that but i would try a little more tork like 30 or 32 on your and see if it make a difference have a great day
Thank you for catching that! I'll be sure to check into it see what's going on. Hope you have a great Wednesday and thanks again for watching
I have been using Cotton Spindle Cleaner for pitch control for years.
1-2oz to 1 gallon of water. I have had very good results. I mostly cut Southern pine. I got from local tractor dealer but Amazon has it as well. Good luck.
Hi Paul I use the same thing (Water soluble oil) but a different brand same formula on my metal working machines and saws and will be running it on the sawmill next run of pine John Toccoa GA
I think it's time I check this out. Thanks again for that Paul!
Hi Sandy. Great video for saw blade comparison. Down time for saw blade cleaning and sharpening are the time bandits. Keep on sawing.
You're right about that Tom. Those time bandits sure add up after a while. I know I've got a stack of blades to sharpen from over the past few weeks/months to take care of
Thanks Sandy. Will have to give these blades a try. Lots of ironwood on my little plot, so any additional blade life is a bonus for sure.
Can imagine the ironwood sure is some hard stuff to cut through.
@@sawingwithsandy
Indeed it is. Just driving a nail through it can be a challenge. But it lasts for decades, so is great for outbuildings and shelters.
@@critical-thought I’ve used it for building bows. That’s about it.
@@johnsquires2209
Oh! I bet it works well for that!
Waiting to see the cutting of those white pine
Me too! I'm hoping they do as well as I hope
Good video buddy,God bless
Thank you. Hope you have a good day
Nice comparison Sandy. I’m still on the fence about getting a mill. Watching your videos is really making me want one. It was great to see you again at Paul Bunyan!
Hey there! Really great to talk again at the Paul Bunyan show. I"m already looking ahead at next year. Hope we get a chance to talk sawing and splitting again
Sandy, your new Blades seem to perform really well, great Video.
Thanks for that! Going well so far
Thanks Sandy, I have purchased 2 boxes of Lenox blades. Yes the offset tooth marks, first cut, on new blade not nice, speaks to quality. I can see a change. Guess I thought the mistakes were mine, what was I doing wrong. Thumbs up as always
Hi Sandy..I'm no logger expert, but by my eye test it appeared that the ripper cut cleaner...lol, it almost looked like it scared sawdust out of the wood before contact...best of luck with your new purchase.
I did find it left a nice finish on the lumber. I"m looking forward to a long-term test on these just to be sure I can get more cutting with less frequent blade changes/sharpenings
Howdy Sandy- I got the same blades not too long ago. I was really impressed with how the 7 degree cut in post oak but not really impressed with the 10 degree in southern yellow pine. After I sharpened the 10 degree they were like a totally different blade- lasted longer and cut really nice. The blades I got with the mill were sharper than the 37’s but they finally all broke. I think you will enjoy the Ripper blades. Thanks for doing the video of the comparison. Take care and God bless
Is that right eh. I'll have to get these back on the saw before long after a sharpening. That's a great surprise for ya I bet. After not cutting well I'd imagine I'd not be too happy with new blades but good to hear they are back to life for ya
It looks like it's about time to clean up the scrap pile. Only time will tell on how well the blades hold up,but the first cuts look perfect.
You're right about that one Wallace. I had a few ideas in mind for the scrap pile but haven't quite got the pieces put into place. Blades are doing great so far! Time will tell for sure
I have been using the ripper 37 blades since new on my on 130max. Went with the 1.5" .050 thick for extra wave control. Cutting mostly yellow pine and cherry. (Hot knife through butter).
I'm still on the 10 pack of el cheapos I ordered with the the HM130max. I'd like something with less kerf waste, but whatever, I'm almost done my project. I get about half dozen resharpens with a simple chainsaw sharpening stone in the dremel. Just a few quick light touches does the job, don't want to overheat the tooth, no setting kerf required. I'm milling doug, balsam, and grand firs. Cheers. PS... Find I can get the cheapos sharper than stock, they cut straight as an arrow. Make sure you adjust the blade guides for minimal clearance. Pressure wash the bark, or brush well to get dirt off. I use one blade for busting thru the bark, and a nice sharp one for the cants
I love my Ripper37s I have not had any issues yet and I cut mostly white oak.
Great to hear first-hand from someone like yourself who uses them Joel
the rippe 37 made a nice cut i picked up a couple of them from a dealer down this way can't wait to try them. i got them for $30 +tax. looks like a nice blade. take care
Sandy, will these sharpen on the Woodland sharpener?
Good to see good logs being sawn
Thanks Claus. I get the odd balsam fir from time to time which is nice sawing
I must be living in a cave. First I have ever heard of Ripper 37. I've been running Joe Maines' Turbo 7 degree for two years now. Super happy with them. I also switched from a 1 1/4" wide to a 1 1/2" wide blade. I have noticed a significantly flatter cut.
That's good to hear about that wider blades. I always wondered about that and considered trying that out at some point. Good to hear from you first-hand
@@sawingwithsandy If you try them...watch the thickness. If you go to a .050 thickness they won't work in our sharpeners. I go with the .045 and they work fine.
Excellent Video! I too have only used the Lenox Woodmaster blades and I only cut white pine (very plentiful on my property). I think I'll try the Ripper 37's. thanks for the info!
I'm really liking the longer blade life. Keeps me sawing longer
Makes a fast beautiful cut
I'm impressed so far Scott
You can find calculators online to determine the approximate tension in the blade tension bolt per torque applied. Once you know the tension in the bolt you divide that tension figure by the cross sectional area of the blade (remember it's twice the area of a single band because you have one band coming and another going and both share the bolt tension) to determine an approximate tensile load on the blade for a particular torque on the adjuster.
Since the teeth don't participate in blade tension, only measure from the bottom of the gullet to the back edge of the blade when calculating the cross sectional area.
That's great information. Thank you for passing that along for me
probably a smart change Sandy
For sure. Figure it was worth a try to see if the grass is greener
I like the ripper37 blades they work well and I sharpen mine right on the mill with an angle grinder
Looked like there were no cut lines or dipping with the new blade. Main thing is, if you're happy with them, then they are the right blades. Good vid. Thanks.
Cut really well I found. I"m looking forward to trying them on the big pitchy white pine logs I"ve got as well see how they do
I have been using ripper 37 for a few months now and so far I am very happy with them
Great to hear they are going good for you. I'm looking forward to trying them out on some pitchy white pine
@@sawingwithsandy I'm using mine on mostly tulip poplar and various oaks. In Tennessee where I'm at it's mostly hardwoods. I can say they definitely last longer than the Woodland Mills blades. Haven't had the opportunity to run resharpened ones yet. They are also much cheaper in price. WM are about $26 USD and Ripper 37 are about $18 USD. I'm running the HM122. Might be different for larger mills.
Very impressive results, Sandy! I will definitely give them a try.👍
So far so good. I'm looking forward to longer blade life fore sure
Received Ripper 37 yesterday. Tried them out today. They cut 30% more than Woodland Mills blades. Plus Woodland is $33 each including shipping. Ripper 37 are $22 each including shipping.
Enjoyed your video, Sandy. Appreciate your positive upbeat attitude reflected in your commentary. Also, like your sharing your thoughts and creative expertise which I think comes from your attention to details. Thanks again for sharing. Blessings to you and your family for health, strength, safety, wisdom, peace and success. Stay safe neighbor...☝️🙏🙌🇨🇦🇺🇸💪🤠👍
I appreciate the kind words and all your support!
Thx for sharing. Why do they call it a cant instead of a can?
Great timing Sandy, I'm down to my last 2 blades! Can you tell which one cuts through the logs stops the best? I find the Lennox xan only get about 1/4" in before the blade is dull....😯
Looks GOOD!
Thanks Joseph
SANDY, have you ever thought about using cooking oil as a lubricant for your blade? You can get lots of it at any restaurant if you ask. You might have to run it through a filter but it would be environmentally friendly.
Be safe
I did hear it get mentioned in my previous video but haven't got around to trying it. I think it would be a great option though. Price is right and not harmful to the environment
Sandy wood a mirror on the post help in seeing if your log is tight and square to the bunks on the mill instead of bending over to see the other side from john
What is the distance from the rail to the front post of the building? Trying to layout my sawmill shed.
Thanks for the product review. Just had a fella from Newfoundland here at work last night tell me all he uses on his HM122 and his LT75 Woodmizer is Ripper 37’s. Thanks Sandy and cheers!
Good to hear others have had great luck with these blades. I"m looking forward to seeing how they do long term and on different wood species
Go to place for all those saw millers. Trial and error and feed back from thousands of Milling watchers of the channel gets you a good consensus of what works and what does not. Nice video and really good for the saw milling industry.
I really appreciate that! Thank you for all your support over the years
great job on the videos!
ur reli cool bro i want a sawmill now - i have to keep buying PSE for projects for now untill i get the lands and get planting (31y/o)
Thanks for the info. I went to the link to buy in Canada but don't see our brand of sawmill listed. They are so expensive buying direct from TMG. Are you familiar with that make? Again, thanks Sandy!
Sandy, I would have sawn two sides with the old blade and two sides with the new blade on the same log to get a more equitable comparison. Let me disclaim one thing... I've never operated a saw mill so in that regard, I'm shooting from the hip. (I also taught 'aim-fire' during my rangemaster/firearms instructor days at the Sheriff's Office, so maybe I'm not so bad... shooting from the hip).... Something else I noticed, and maybe this isn't a factor, but the distance of the guide bar(?) from the log, looks like it's about a foot or so. If you moved it closer to the log, would that reduce the flutter and give the blade more support when it enters the log? All right, all that aside, you're doing what I would do. Even when I think I've got the perfect setup for... whatever, I'm not adverse to trying new techniques, products, methods, etc. If there's one thing I hate, it's the guy who says..., "Been doin' it this way for twenty years... ain't changing now!"
Hey there Carl! Good to hear from you. Hope all is well with you! Good question about the log supports. On my sawmill the log support is as far inwards as it would go which on smaller logs make it look like a big gap. Since the guide blocks don't actually contact the blade I'm guessing the little bit of flutter in the blade could've been because I had some pitch build up on my band wheel belts. I'm like you mentioned and always trying something new. I just wish my budget approved me trying some thing new like a excavator haha.
Looks like nice blades!
Thanks Killinger! Hope all is well with you
I like them, is there much of a price difference
Price is comparable
Hey Sandy, thanks for all your videos. I purchased a Woodland Mills HM 130 max because of you. I also got the powerhead attachment which is why I'm asking this question. Have you settled on a way to get accurate and repeatable cuts? With the detents on the manual handle, I could rely on each click traveling a 1/16". Count 16 clicks and I'm assured a 1" board. With the powerhead, not so much. Keep up your great vids. (BTW) I made sure to let Woodland Mills know I bought their mill because of your channel.
I really appreciate that Dennis! Great to hear you're gotten some good information from my videos .Happy to help fellow sawyers whenever I can.
A video on how to set up for repeatable cuts would be great. In talking with Woodland Mills they could only suggest I go to their FaceBook group and search there. Still haven't been successful. I'm sure I'm not the only person wondering this.@@sawingwithsandy
Hey, don’t forget to stack your scraps for easy removal. You told us to remind you. :)
The ole scrap pile grows like a weed . I need winter to cover it up haha
Good night my friend
Thanks for coming along for the video!
Where do you get your ripper blades from and how much are they?
Hi Sandy where did you get your new blades I live in Nova Scotia thanks
Link in description under video.
There is a lot of things that effect what blades work best starting with species of trees and and harvesting process such as how they get them out of woods
Age and size and if sawmill has a debarker to eliminate problem that hidden in bark
For sure. Lots of things to consider
Have you ever tried any 1 1/2 blades from the various manufacturers vs the standard 1 1/4?
Hi John, I have only tried the 1 1/4". I'd be interested to hear from others about the 1 1/2" on the Woodland Mills too
what size is that torque wrench that it fits to tension the blades?
Im using 25 ft lbs on my torque wrench
ADVICE PLEASE
I'm searching your videos on getting"chatter" when cutting lumber. I changed the blade because I was getting wavy cuts. base is level. ?? Tia.
Hi Kara. If I was getting blade chatter I"d change the blade as well and hope that helped solve the issue. If there is still chatter after a brand new blade I'd double check that my blade guide blocks were rubbing on the blade. If it still had chatter I'd try cutting on a different log just to be certain the chatter is the result of my sawmill and if it was still getting chatter I'd try a third new blade. If still there I"d replace the belts. hope that helps,
Never tried rippers , always heard good things . How well do you like the 1.5 blades vrs 1.25
Hi Thomas, in this case these rippers are still the 1.25"
You indent say who makes the new blades and where to get them and price
Listed in description under video.
Looks like its been 9 months since youve posted this video. Wondering what your thoughts are on the ripper 37's?
I"m still very happy with them. They hold their edge very well
To my untrained eye, the new blades appeared to be cutting faster as well as smoother. Did the feed rate change?
It did seem to cut easier which was nice for me
What is the laser you use?
Here’s some details on it from a recent video of mine
th-cam.com/video/C8O3iQw7Xik/w-d-xo.htmlsi=olCWXoO-ReYYALPh
Sandy don't try to set those ripper37 blades you will snap them they don't flex like the Lennox blades do imo
For these blades the tooth set has to be done further down from the tip of the tooth I understand since the tooth is hardened deeper than most
@@sawingwithsandy they definitely break off easy
Is that quiter than your original blade?
Have heard good about Ripper...
Think they are supposed to be some of the best. Looking forward to seeing how they work long term
If those ripper 37 teeth are hardened deeper, you may find sharpening them back to be more of a challenge. Time will tell.
I think the one thing to be mindful with these teeth when resharpening is to have the plunger on the tooth setter push on the tooth lower from the tip than other blades since they are hardened deeper
If you really want to see what a ripper37 can do get you a nice oak log
Soft wood
Sunday Sunday Sunday very sad you were the one who told everybody how you were going to keep your scrap pile and keep it clean and just have it in one way take a look at your scrap pile very very very sad. You are not doing what you said you were going to do. Very shameful I'm very disappointed in you
Yeah one of those things it seems. Had some other things come up that had to take priority
U should see the monsters I cut with my mill it gets ruff
Bet it makes some good lumber !