The most fun, and most useful, thing about 3D printing is if you learn how to design your own 3D items from scratch - that way you can create things that you want that just wouldn't be possible to buy or download. For example, I use my bike for commuting as well, and I have a rear carrier that I can attach that was once part of a child bike seat - I created and printed a part that allows me to mount my rear light one the back of that - there is no way I would ever have been able to buy something that was specifically designed for that situation. Of course, without a 3D printer I would have found some other way to do it, but it just makes it much better, neater, and more fun :)
For those just thinking of getting started: Would love to have you do a video evaluating low-cost printers and their features. Also more details on the different materials available to choose from. Thanks for considering!
Have done a chain guide. A case for my dcdc boost converter ebike charger. GoPro mount. And the best one ... my motorcycle choke lever broke and I needed one the next day. Started drawing up one then thought " I wonder if someone had done one?" ... sure enough they had. Only used PLA but the secret was to do then as 100% fill ... the choke lever has outlasted the original lol.
A rear mudguard for my trek fuel exe that looks like the ones that come on the new Slash and Rail it won’t have fixing points like they have but it would be cool to make one that fits as well as those do.
My favourite 3Dprint i am actually running on all my bikes is a nice and simple little bashguard. If printed in PLA it will take a good couple of hits until the layers start splitting and you need a new one. At a cost of maybe around 1€ each, this is still the cheapest and one of the lightest options 🤙
Carbon fiber as additive on 3d printing is most just for looks and make your layer adhesion weak compared to normal filament for most of times. Its chopped fibers so adds some rigidity but the Achilles's heel is always layer adhesion. It's useful when used on temperamental filaments like nylon that wraps and pop off the table so it make it more printable.
In Finland there are libraries that have 3D-printers and you can "loan" printing time. It's amazing...if you don't how to use the machine librarian can help you to get going.
FDM 3d printed parts are "legitimate" when you understand that the result its (with the actual technology) weaker than the normal process that is injection molded due to layer adhesion limitations so it the part needs to be designed to be thicker and stronger to make it functional.
Anyone else here use to put wooden dowels and an extra 3/4” bar piece on either side to make those 26” wide maximum bars closer to 28!? 😮 and now im a Watching computer printed crazy thingies.. interested in whas available in 25 years 🤔🤔🤔🤔. Ahahahahaa i rode mtb in america when everything was still measured in inches.. 2” superfly still smoother than any modern enduro fork. Jeff L gave me my first bar extenders for truvativ bars remember like it was yesterday… happy theres no more square taper 😊
I do 3d prints of (scaled down) architectural projects for work, but I've also prototyped some parts for various other things. Don't limit yourself to downloading other people's designs. Learn some basic 3d modelling autocad, solid works, fusion etc. It's not that hard and really worth it. Loads of free training resources on TH-cam
@TCK71 the good news is that the finish is really down to print settings... the guys likely just used 'draft' settings to be able to print things relatively quickly, but you can get a relatively good finish with finer layers, 'ironing', etc., which will just take more time to print...
Those 3d prints looks really-really bad. Current "cheap" 3D printers do much better job. Just search for Bambulab and Prusa printers, they do amazing jobs
This is maybe the greatest problem with 3d printing: it's a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist now. Only few designs are really worth it like prosthetics here, mostly it is some sort of adapter, gimbal or straight up gimmick. People bother with printer upfront investment and running maintenance costs only to pay a dollar in filament for a part that is 10 cents extrusion or injection molding but somehow end up for 10 dollars with 3 weeks lead time at the shop. We failed at global commerce so hard!
The most fun, and most useful, thing about 3D printing is if you learn how to design your own 3D items from scratch - that way you can create things that you want that just wouldn't be possible to buy or download. For example, I use my bike for commuting as well, and I have a rear carrier that I can attach that was once part of a child bike seat - I created and printed a part that allows me to mount my rear light one the back of that - there is no way I would ever have been able to buy something that was specifically designed for that situation. Of course, without a 3D printer I would have found some other way to do it, but it just makes it much better, neater, and more fun :)
i been 3d printing and cnc machining bike parts for a while. they work just fine if done correctly and with correct material.
For those just thinking of getting started: Would love to have you do a video evaluating low-cost printers and their features. Also more details on the different materials available to choose from. Thanks for considering!
That's what 3D printing channels are for.
I 3D printed a derailleur hanger alignment tool! Only metal part is a bolt for strength!
Have done a chain guide.
A case for my dcdc boost converter ebike charger.
GoPro mount.
And the best one ... my motorcycle choke lever broke and I needed one the next day. Started drawing up one then thought " I wonder if someone had done one?" ... sure enough they had.
Only used PLA but the secret was to do then as 100% fill ... the choke lever has outlasted the original lol.
2 of my inspirational riders.
looking thru some old videos, I found something that was super hi-tec, electrical taping your shoes to the pedals
amazing video, I wish you looked more into the arm. that is amazing
I am sure this guy has been featured on the channel before years ago, all about the arm. If not then I have def seen him somewhere else.
A rear mudguard for my trek fuel exe that looks like the ones that come on the new Slash and Rail it won’t have fixing points like they have but it would be cool to make one that fits as well as those do.
defo 3d print a bike and get Blake to ride it (not near a cliff though) ;)
Let’s see a 3D printed front brake rotor cover
My favourite 3Dprint i am actually running on all my bikes is a nice and simple little bashguard.
If printed in PLA it will take a good couple of hits until the layers start splitting and you need a new one. At a cost of maybe around 1€ each, this is still the cheapest and one of the lightest options 🤙
Carbon fiber as additive on 3d printing is most just for looks and make your layer adhesion weak compared to normal filament for most of times. Its chopped fibers so adds some rigidity but the Achilles's heel is always layer adhesion. It's useful when used on temperamental filaments like nylon that wraps and pop off the table so it make it more printable.
Lever blades... Or rear derailleur cages
if only i had a 3d printer
In Finland there are libraries that have 3D-printers and you can "loan" printing time. It's amazing...if you don't how to use the machine librarian can help you to get going.
You can also use services like pcbway or others
@@anttitapio4145 yes and there are also cnc machining services if you need something made from metal.
I print 3D objects, however im not a 3d printer 😜 that would be the machine.
Thanks for the links.
Chain stay protector
FDM 3d printed parts are "legitimate" when you understand that the result its (with the actual technology) weaker than the normal process that is injection molded due to layer adhesion limitations so it the part needs to be designed to be thicker and stronger to make it functional.
3D print GMBN logo
Anyone else here use to put wooden dowels and an extra 3/4” bar piece on either side to make those 26” wide maximum bars closer to 28!? 😮 and now im a Watching computer printed crazy thingies.. interested in whas available in 25 years 🤔🤔🤔🤔. Ahahahahaa i rode mtb in america when everything was still measured in inches.. 2” superfly still smoother than any modern enduro fork. Jeff L gave me my first bar extenders for truvativ bars remember like it was yesterday… happy theres no more square taper 😊
I do 3d prints of (scaled down) architectural projects for work, but I've also prototyped some parts for various other things. Don't limit yourself to downloading other people's designs. Learn some basic 3d modelling autocad, solid works, fusion etc. It's not that hard and really worth it. Loads of free training resources on TH-cam
meow
FIRST
nope
Or you could just buy the original stuff and it wouldn’t look so cheap and tatty?
@TCK71 the good news is that the finish is really down to print settings... the guys likely just used 'draft' settings to be able to print things relatively quickly, but you can get a relatively good finish with finer layers, 'ironing', etc., which will just take more time to print...
Those 3d prints looks really-really bad. Current "cheap" 3D printers do much better job. Just search for Bambulab and Prusa printers, they do amazing jobs
We know who is the "i buy all the expensive stuff because it must be better" guy in the comments
This is maybe the greatest problem with 3d printing: it's a solution to a problem that shouldn't exist now. Only few designs are really worth it like prosthetics here, mostly it is some sort of adapter, gimbal or straight up gimmick. People bother with printer upfront investment and running maintenance costs only to pay a dollar in filament for a part that is 10 cents extrusion or injection molding but somehow end up for 10 dollars with 3 weeks lead time at the shop.
We failed at global commerce so hard!