Great Job, I been modeling rocks for yrs with my train layout and use every mold you could find, now I use the foil, but I put it over a detailed real rock or boulder and then slowly lift it off and it comes out Incredible. These look Great. Nice Job !!!
hi Peter... great "how to" i'll be using your technique when i get to that stage on my layout... thanks for sharing & i'm looking forward to the next installment... vinny
It should work. But you will have to use Patching or post cement, and re enforce the aluminum foil molds in sand. The cement is a lot heavier then plaster. So what I mean by that is make a shallow wooded trey, fill it with sand and nestle the aluminum molds into the sand, so when you pore the cement it will not deform or flatten the molds as the sand is supporting them from underneath. Hope this helps.
Brilliant. Thank you. I just made a cement (quikrete) rock with 3 layers of foil. It turned out pretty good. Mimicking a flagstone....I work with clay sometimes too and sometimes I need to rest my piece in a bed of cornstarch to cushion it. So this makes perfect sense to me. I'll definitely try that for better results on the second one. =)
Peter, thanks for a great tutorial. I've been using this method for a while as well, and your video presented some additional good info. You might want to consider tinting the plaster with some gray or a shot of black (or really any earth tone that won't be white). That way, if the plaster cracks or chips, it will not be blindingly white. the plaster should still be porous enough to take on the washes (part 2?)
I use plaster of paris Paul it takes washes very well. Part 2 won't have washes yet. That will be a separate video. A few months from that part still don't know if I am going to use varying shades of grey or greys some ochers and yellows. I usually pre tint my plaster but since I haven't committed to a colour scheme I left it out this time. I am glad you found the video helpful. Part two will focus on carving and filling in gaps. Practically done just have to film final reveal a d closing comments. Should be up this weekend, latest early next week.
Great how to. I have seen aluminum for making rocks or rough terrain by leaving the aluminum foil on the layout. Then covering it with cloth or just plaster on it. Scott
dave allen Dave that was my dilemma, spent a shit load on rubber and latex molds from various manufactures to get a non repetitive rock face or come up with a close looking cheaper method. Loved how this turned on my layout. Will definitely use it on my future layouts as well.
Peter CPRail8748 I have a bag full of rubber rock molds I used dish soap on the mold brushed a this layer other wise the plaster would stick to the mold I made one rock and painted it . They have preformed rocks and strata already to add to your layour by Woodland scenic but I like your idea they are not as thick and while still moist adhere to the mountain . Take care Peter when I get the shell of my hill done will post it on YT !
Yes I do Deryk, it's easer to work with when it's fully set but still slightly damp as it's still brittle which makes it easier for chipping and chiseling. Part 2 will go to more in depth on this. I really only leave some carving when it's rock hard when I catch some unnatural spots. It still chips naturally like rock does but it's harder and more time consuming to do. So the key is to do a lot of the major work when plaster still slightly damp but hard enough to chip and fracture as supposed to feel like paddy or modeling clay. Glad you liked part 1, hopefully it will give you the confidence to try it on your new layout in certain spots. Thanks for commenting as always Deryk.
Great how to Peter! This was very helpful buddy. So how long to you let the rock set before placing it and then how long till you remove the foil? Can't wait for part 2.
John as long as you pick the mold up and the plaster dose not flow on you but is still very wet you can place it on your scenery. I usually wait 5 to 10 mins before pulling the foil off. If you wet the layout prior to placing the mold it creates a strong bond.
Great Job, I been modeling rocks for yrs with my train layout and use every mold you could find, now I use the foil, but I put it over a detailed real rock or boulder and then slowly lift it off and it comes out Incredible. These look Great. Nice Job !!!
hi Peter... great "how to" i'll be using your technique when i get to that stage on my layout... thanks for sharing & i'm looking forward to the next installment... vinny
I am glad it helped Vinny. Second part should up end of the week. Looking forward to seeing your rock work when you get to it.
Very nice how-to. Looking forward to part 2.
Ethan
Thanks, should be up by end of the weekend.
It should work. But you will have to use Patching or post cement, and re enforce the aluminum foil molds in sand. The cement is a lot heavier then plaster. So what I mean by that is make a shallow wooded trey, fill it with sand and nestle the aluminum molds into the sand, so when you pore the cement it will not deform or flatten the molds as the sand is supporting them from underneath.
Hope this helps.
Brilliant. Thank you. I just made a cement (quikrete) rock with 3 layers of foil. It turned out pretty good. Mimicking a flagstone....I work with clay sometimes too and sometimes I need to rest my piece in a bed of cornstarch to cushion it. So this makes perfect sense to me. I'll definitely try that for better results on the second one. =)
Peter, thanks for a great tutorial. I've been using this method for a while as well, and your video presented some additional good info. You might want to consider tinting the plaster with some gray or a shot of black (or really any earth tone that won't be white). That way, if the plaster cracks or chips, it will not be blindingly white. the plaster should still be porous enough to take on the washes (part 2?)
I use plaster of paris Paul it takes washes very well. Part 2 won't have washes yet. That will be a separate video. A few months from that part still don't know if I am going to use varying shades of grey or greys some ochers and yellows. I usually pre tint my plaster but since I haven't committed to a colour scheme I left it out this time. I am glad you found the video helpful.
Part two will focus on carving and filling in gaps. Practically done just have to film final reveal a d closing comments. Should be up this weekend, latest early next week.
Great how to. I have seen aluminum for making rocks or rough terrain by leaving the aluminum foil on the layout. Then covering it with cloth or just plaster on it.
Scott
What a great idea Peter and on a budget great looking rock strata thanks for the how to tips ! I'm in the begining stage of making a mountain .
dave allen Dave that was my dilemma, spent a shit load on rubber and latex molds from various manufactures to get a non repetitive rock face or come up with a close looking cheaper method. Loved how this turned on my layout. Will definitely use it on my future layouts as well.
Peter CPRail8748 I have a bag full of rubber rock molds I used dish soap on the mold brushed a this layer other wise the plaster would stick to the mold I made one rock and painted it . They have preformed rocks and strata already to add to your layour by Woodland scenic but I like your idea they are not as thick and while still moist adhere to the mountain . Take care Peter when I get the shell of my hill done will post it on YT !
Can this technique be used to make fake outdoor rocks for small landscaping features?
Very cool Peter! So you do all that before the plaster is fully hard? Thanks for the awesome 'HOW TO'
Yes I do Deryk, it's easer to work with when it's fully set but still slightly damp as it's still brittle which makes it easier for chipping and chiseling. Part 2 will go to more in depth on this. I really only leave some carving when it's rock hard when I catch some unnatural spots. It still chips naturally like rock does but it's harder and more time consuming to do. So the key is to do a lot of the major work when plaster still slightly damp but hard enough to chip and fracture as supposed to feel like paddy or modeling clay.
Glad you liked part 1, hopefully it will give you the confidence to try it on your new layout in certain spots. Thanks for commenting as always Deryk.
Great how to Peter! This was very helpful buddy. So how long to you let the rock set before placing it and then how long till you remove the foil? Can't wait for part 2.
John as long as you pick the mold up and the plaster dose not flow on you but is still very wet you can place it on your scenery. I usually wait 5 to 10 mins before pulling the foil off. If you wet the layout prior to placing the mold it creates a strong bond.
Peter CPRail8748 sweet man! Thanks for sharing this!
model railer glad you found it helpful, part two should be up some time this week. Have some little bits to finish before final reveal in second part.
Great how to man!
Glad you liked it, in part two we get into the fun stuff carving and details.
great can't wait!