Thank you for making this video. I have a job coming up next week where I need to use the lens support and your video helps me know how to use it properly.
Thanks Keith for providing this great video since Laowa doesn't providing a user manual soft or paper, unless I'm wrong. I found out that the black outer ring can be removed. By doing this, I can easy install the lens with the body already attached on the grey support , and then after, reattach with the black collar. I prefer this solution compared the removed the lens from the body. I'm surprised that it does not come with a pouch for travel, as well as then lens. Thanks again for this video very helpful!
Great video Thanks. Unfortunately, the V1 Loawa (smaller for trip) is not anymore available and we need to buy the V3 (15mm and 20mm). I'm all equiped with Sony Lens except for the 15mm. Also, with the V1, we don't need to separate the lens from the camera body, to install the lens in the Support.
Thank you for your video, it was helpful to see the frame in action. I just bought the Laowa 20mm and am big on panoramas so I will definitely be picking this up.
Thanks BTW- if you've not seen them, do check the main [written] reviews - they always have more info and better pics than any videos ;-) www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-20mm-shift-lens-f4/
@@KeithCooper Your book is awesome! Explains everything I would need to know about using tilt shift lenses in a very understandable way. Combined with your video's, my architectural photography will be taken to the next level!
Thanks - I don't know for sure. I believe it's similar but offers fewer position options. Did you see the actual [written] review as well (there are more detailed images - check the fittings) www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
Okay, I just purchased the support and just received it today. I am not sure if you take video requests, in case you do, I am going to request a video creating a multiple row panorama with the tilt shift using this support. I have never attempted and would love to try it. If you don't, if you have info elsewhere that shows how to do this, then I would appreciate it. I did buy your book, haven't read it yet. Thank you for your work!
Slight problem I'm afraid - the shift lens and support have gone back to Laowa. See the Laowa video links that are in another comment for some examples See also the main review. www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/ The actual process depends on your stitching software and whether you want to stitch images with a fixed lens (just moving the camera) or a pan combined with shift (a row shifted up and a row shifted down). This software limitation is one reason I don't go into great detail for this aspect
Another question: Do you manually adjust the focus before installation or it's still easy to adjust the focus when the lens is installed on the support? Thank!!
Focus adjustment is fine with the lens in the bracket. It is a little less convenient to access the full focus ring. See more details in the main [written] review www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
Great review, Keith! I have the Canon 17mm lens and the Rogeti frame, which has completely solved the parallax issues! But I must say, I used to have stitching issues whether there was foreground subject or not. For architectural work, even a distant subject would show stitching issues, and I had to get very inventive with photoshop to correct them! I only used LR and Photoshop for stitching, that might explain it. What stitching software would you recommend?
I tend to use PS for flat stitching - usually up/down, since it causes fewer potential issues. I've not used it beyond simple flat stitching. For multiple images I still use AutoPano Giga - unfortunately dgi bought the company and killed the product. The copy I'm using still works well on my Mac (10.15). No doubt I'll have to move on at some point, but not yet.
Great review. Thanks. One question…if you have to chose between Rogeti and Laowa collars which one you would go for? Are the laowa lenses sharper than the canon’s tse? One thing I miss having are longer lenses options with shift movements…a 28mm or 35mm would be amazing …but we can used them on crop sensors I guess. Thank you
The Rogeti collars don't fit the Laowa lenses and Laowa collars don't fit Canon TS-E I've not tried enough lens examples to know about relative sharpness in a meaningful way I would say that in general, image quality seemed broadly related to focal length, so my TS-E24 is 'best' I get ~34mm from a Canon 1.4x III TC with the 24mm - works really well Unless you want a narrow FOV, crop sensors lose out at wide angles I did test the TS-E17 on a 7D a while ago. Gives ~27mm equiv FOV, but with proportionally more shift (covered in an article and the book)
Hi Keith, it appears that someone at Laowa watched your review. I just took delivery of the rotating mount and it has hash marks every 15 degrees. No detents though, just hash marks on the outer ring. Criticisms: 1) the reference mark on the inner ring is red. This could make it hard to read in low light or for people with red/green colorblind mess. 2) I assume the grooves on the left side of the ARCA-Swiss base plate mark the positions for the nodal points for the 15 and 20mm lenses but are not labeled. Also they are just black notches on a black anodized plate, making them hard to see. Finally I wish they were on both the right and left sides of the plate.
@@ellisvener5337 Mine has the marks at 15°, too. Bought either late 2022 or early 2023, if I remember correctly. For stitching images, I find mounting the front of the lens (not the camera) on the tripod a big help, avoiding parallax problems.
Keith I realize this frame is not compatible with the Canon TSE lenses and the Rogetti version but I'm wondering how would you compare and contrast the two different solutions to this problem?
Very different since the TS-E lenses have the setting of shift axis and camera axis in the lens. Two different solutions to two different problems. The TSE frame has no moving parts, so is very solid.
Having seen examples of the MK1 I disagree. I have no issues with it's stability. I actually appreciate the engineering design that has gone into it ;-) The MK1 version seems to offer limited settings (the four 'slots' in the mount). Nope, if I was getting one, I'd get this version every time...
@@KeithCooper This is correct. I started with Mk I and then (with a fair bit of difficulty) managed to locate the ring only and so converted my Mk I into Mk 2. Obviously bigger, but much better.
Thank you for making this video. I have a job coming up next week where I need to use the lens support and your video helps me know how to use it properly.
Glad it was helpful! The key to devices like these is to be careful about moving/setting the camera, so as not to unduly stress the lens mechanisms
Thanks Keith for providing this great video since Laowa doesn't providing a user manual soft or paper, unless I'm wrong. I found out that the black outer ring can be removed. By doing this, I can easy install the lens with the body already attached on the grey support , and then after, reattach with the black collar. I prefer this solution compared the removed the lens from the body.
I'm surprised that it does not come with a pouch for travel, as well as then lens. Thanks again for this video very helpful!
Thanks - that's a good point to know
Great video Thanks. Unfortunately, the V1 Loawa (smaller for trip) is not anymore available and we need to buy the V3 (15mm and 20mm). I'm all equiped with Sony Lens except for the 15mm. Also, with the V1, we don't need to separate the lens from the camera body, to install the lens in the Support.
Ah - I did not know they had changed it - I'll have to look into it.
Thanks for mentioning this.
Thanks
Thank you!
Thank you,Keith, for granting my request. Think I'll buy one.
Thanks - glad it was of interest!
Got the lens . The lens support is back ordered. You explain the techniques very elegantly. Much appreciated. Subscribed.
Thanks - it's a very useful bit of kit.
Thanks Keith, this was a great overview. I have the lens support an found this to be very helpful to explain the practical usage.
Thanks - glad it was of use
Thank you nice set up. I can recommend the book
Glad you like it!
Thank you for your video, it was helpful to see the frame in action. I just bought the Laowa 20mm and am big on panoramas so I will definitely be picking this up.
Thanks
BTW- if you've not seen them, do check the main [written] reviews - they always have more info and better pics than any videos ;-)
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-20mm-shift-lens-f4/
Just ordered your book!
Thanks - hope you find it of use!
@@KeithCooper Your book is awesome! Explains everything I would need to know about using tilt shift lenses in a very understandable way. Combined with your video's, my architectural photography will be taken to the next level!
@@Alvin_Berg205 Thanks very much!
Very nice review as usal Kieth!
Been thinking of getting a TSE Frame, could be a nice addition.
Thanks - it's something I use much more in interior photography. The Rogeti stuff does have a nice solidity about it.
Great review! Question: Will the older 15mm support ($150) work with the new 20mm shift?
Thanks - I don't know for sure. I believe it's similar but offers fewer position options.
Did you see the actual [written] review as well (there are more detailed images - check the fittings)
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
Okay, I just purchased the support and just received it today. I am not sure if you take video requests, in case you do, I am going to request a video creating a multiple row panorama with the tilt shift using this support. I have never attempted and would love to try it. If you don't, if you have info elsewhere that shows how to do this, then I would appreciate it. I did buy your book, haven't read it yet. Thank you for your work!
Slight problem I'm afraid - the shift lens and support have gone back to Laowa.
See the Laowa video links that are in another comment for some examples
See also the main review.
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
The actual process depends on your stitching software and whether you want to stitch images with a fixed lens (just moving the camera) or a pan combined with shift (a row shifted up and a row shifted down). This software limitation is one reason I don't go into great detail for this aspect
Another question: Do you manually adjust the focus before installation or it's still easy to adjust the focus when the lens is installed on the support? Thank!!
Focus adjustment is fine with the lens in the bracket. It is a little less convenient to access the full focus ring. See more details in the main [written] review
www.northlight-images.co.uk/review-laowa-shift-lens-support/
Great review, Keith! I have the Canon 17mm lens and the Rogeti frame, which has completely solved the parallax issues! But I must say, I used to have stitching issues whether there was foreground subject or not. For architectural work, even a distant subject would show stitching issues, and I had to get very inventive with photoshop to correct them! I only used LR and Photoshop for stitching, that might explain it. What stitching software would you recommend?
I tend to use PS for flat stitching - usually up/down, since it causes fewer potential issues. I've not used it beyond simple flat stitching.
For multiple images I still use AutoPano Giga - unfortunately dgi bought the company and killed the product. The copy I'm using still works well on my Mac (10.15). No doubt I'll have to move on at some point, but not yet.
@@KeithCooper thanks for that!
I find Capture One has fewer issues than Photoshop stitching 4 images together
Great review. Thanks.
One question…if you have to chose between Rogeti and Laowa collars which one you would go for?
Are the laowa lenses sharper than the canon’s tse?
One thing I miss having are longer lenses options with shift movements…a 28mm or 35mm would be amazing …but we can used them on crop sensors I guess.
Thank you
The Rogeti collars don't fit the Laowa lenses and Laowa collars don't fit Canon TS-E
I've not tried enough lens examples to know about relative sharpness in a meaningful way
I would say that in general, image quality seemed broadly related to focal length, so my TS-E24 is 'best'
I get ~34mm from a Canon 1.4x III TC with the 24mm - works really well
Unless you want a narrow FOV, crop sensors lose out at wide angles
I did test the TS-E17 on a 7D a while ago. Gives ~27mm equiv FOV, but with proportionally more shift (covered in an article and the book)
I agree about wishing it had tick marks every 15-degrees.
Yes, it seems an obvious choice
Hi Keith, it appears that someone at Laowa watched your review. I just took delivery of the rotating mount and it has hash marks every 15 degrees. No detents though, just hash marks on the outer ring.
Criticisms:
1) the reference mark on the inner ring is red. This could make it hard to read in low light or for people with red/green colorblind mess.
2) I assume the grooves on the left side of the ARCA-Swiss base plate mark the positions for the nodal points for the 15 and 20mm lenses but are not labeled. Also they are just black notches on a black anodized plate, making them hard to see. Finally I wish they were on both the right and left sides of the plate.
@@ellisvener5337 Thanks - I'd suggest contacting Laowa with your observations - they are small enough to appreciate feedback
@@KeithCooper done.
@@ellisvener5337 Mine has the marks at 15°, too. Bought either late 2022 or early 2023, if I remember correctly.
For stitching images, I find mounting the front of the lens (not the camera) on the tripod a big help, avoiding parallax problems.
Keith I realize this frame is not compatible with the Canon TSE lenses and the Rogetti version but I'm wondering how would you compare and contrast the two different solutions to this problem?
Very different since the TS-E lenses have the setting of shift axis and camera axis in the lens.
Two different solutions to two different problems. The TSE frame has no moving parts, so is very solid.
Seems overthought and not too stable. It seems you have to attach the camera after the lens has been mounted. For that reason I went with the mk I.
Having seen examples of the MK1 I disagree. I have no issues with it's stability.
I actually appreciate the engineering design that has gone into it ;-)
The MK1 version seems to offer limited settings (the four 'slots' in the mount).
Nope, if I was getting one, I'd get this version every time...
@@KeithCooper This is correct. I started with Mk I and then (with a fair bit of difficulty) managed to locate the ring only and so converted my Mk I into Mk 2. Obviously bigger, but much better.