Pro tip --->when you drill something with a fluted cutter(twist drill for example) on a drill press or this mag drill dont put oil on the peace you are drilling.Instead put it on the end of the flute near chuck.That way as drill spins oil goes down and lubricates the cutting lip.Way much better than squrting a puddle of oil that will never reach bottom of the hole due to burr that is created.
I worked at a Cat dealer and we got a 46 A in that worked in the Ocean. We broke 56 1 inch bolts off with a 21 foot 1 1/2 inch pipe that we couldn’t move with a one inch air gun. After that we drilled every one with a magnetic drill press,and then had the welder burn the rest out to the threads. Two day job.
These mag drills are a great addition to the shop. They are way more efficient at drilling large holes. And you can make a variety of different jigs, stands ect... things like drilling holes in a welding table for clamps. And the holes are excellent finish.
I think this could make a pretty decent drill press for a small shop, like you said in the video. Hard to beat $200. Hopefully mike will give some updates on how the Mag Drill is doing after some use.
At the office, we have an older Milwaukee mag drill from when they were a USA company with tools made in the USA. Milwaukee is now a Chinese company, but they continue to make quality professional tools that I would recommend. I’ve been after an inexpensive mag drill for home use for many years. They have been single speed with a fairly high RPM that I feel is less then ideal for larger holes. I’ve almost pulled the trigger on a brand name drill several times, to get one with slow speed, but just couldn’t justify the price for limited use. I finally purchased this exact model of Vevor drill off eBay when I saw the price and that it had variable speed. Out of the box, it appears to be a great value for the money. I’m happy.
A cheap way to get a very hard drill bit is to sharpen an drill bit for stonework. Sorry, I do not know the english word for it, in Germany we call it "Steinbohrer mit Widia Spitze". I think, Widia is the same or similar to carbide. To sharpen it you need a special stone for your grinder. Because of the angle on the tip it is not realy cutting, it is more a kind of scraping. But in some case it might work. I have drilled a hole in hardened steel with this method. My English may not be the best, but I think you are a clever man and understand it.
shop and math TH-cam channel has a video demonstration of doing just that, profiling a masonry bit and drilling through a craftsman wrench.😎 th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html
The tenon idea is pretty clever, so thanks for tossing that nugget into my mental toolbox. Makes me think that a bunch of scrap slugs from annular cutters could also be used to make rivets. Pretty sure that's not a new idea either though...
Thanks for the review John. I've been looking at the Vevor mag drills for several months and this video helped me decide to buy the model shown (the discount was an unexpected bonus!). I was going to buy the 11pcs set of annular cutters to go with the drill, but they're sold out. My first choice was the Hougen HMD900, but at a price difference of almost $650 just for the drill, I couldn't say no to the Vevor.
Nice tool……and wow I didn’t even know about those hollow drill bits, the stuff I learn from you John is awesome. Many thanks for the time you put into these videos of yours.
Thanks for the review, I'd like to get a mag drill for my shop eventually. I really like that it is a variable speed - so many drills aren't and they spin too fast and eat up the drill bits.
I’ve had the many cheap vs one good tool experience all my life. An observation. I’ve made the wrong choice almost every time. One cheap tool that broke was easy to initiate and make a return. As I dropped the box off to return it, this must be the no-brainer choice. But I then had to wait three weeks for a replacement, and learned.
I just bought one of these, but I bought the 1300w version, because it had the forward and reverse, AND because it had the adjustable bolt to double the height of the dovetail, which for some reason the 1550w version seems to be the only one that doesn't have this feature, unless it's hidden in another location. I would have rather had the 1550w power, but without those 2 extra features, it was a lot more limited in what you can do with it unfortunately. The 1400w version has all of the features of the 1300w, but it had the fancy ball holder quick set and release, which is really cool, but is also limiting the tool to not being able to use any other cutters etc... Also, the price of it shoots up almost another $200 CAD, so for the extra 1000w, and the limits it put on the drill for me, along with the huge price increase, I figured I would be best off just getting the 1300w with the forward and reverse, that comes with 2 annular cutters and the chuck, which should do damn near everything! Just my 2 cents...
Thanks for the gret review of the VEVOR MAG DRILL in today's video John. Looks like a great deal for the home owner's shop to keep expences down and get by . It can be a very useful addition to the shop. OLD DAWG DREAMING Fred.
I just bought one of their forges, I realized the one i made gets the job done but i needed something bigger, I feel i got a good deal, torch, with hose, and nozzles, forge, ceramic fiber blanket, thick leather gloves, tonges for $130 Canadian.
As much as I dislike cheap imports, the cost of a lot of tools that are produced here in the West are so astronomical that a small shop really doesn't have much of a choice. At $200, that Vevor looks like it's decent enough - even if only as a dedicated tenon-maker that you use only once or twice a year. I could certainly see me adding one to the operation here!
😮. John very interesting and very informational video today. Thanks so much for this information. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
You can get a center cutting carbide endmill to drill through the hardened anvil face then switch to a cobalt twist drill to finish the hole, assuming it isn't hardened all the way through. Might be cheaper than a carbide drill, depending on what size and length you need.
Use a masonry bit on harder material. You will need to sharpen it before use because it’s ground to cut masonry. Fairly cheap and readily available from most hardware stores.
shop and math TH-cam channel has a video demonstration of doing just that, profiling a masonry bit and drilling through a craftsman wrench.😎 th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html
Using the drill to make tenons isn't a new idea? It most certainly is for me. Brilliant! Thank you for that. It's an approach l can use for installing solid metal spindles in wood rails. Especially the hammered, random sized type. I suppose you could also install a steel plate in a wood bench as well if you need a drill press periodically. One question, does the magnet keep the drilling chips contained? I've used a welding magnet on my drill press for that purpose. Thank you! Cheers.
Funny. I did the same thing with a Vevor mag drill applied to my Acciaio anvil, except I had an expensive, sharp, solid carbide drill bit to get through the 1/4" hard layer. Most folks don't have a $50 drill bit just laying around. But if you do, having an actual pritchel hole in the Acciaio anvil solves that nagging problem with them. Don't know why they refuse to tweak their casting form, but whatever. I really like my Vevor mag drill too.
I bought the 1400w with the DeWalt style quick change collar. Setting up for my fourth hole the collar fell apart!! talking to Vevor now about warranty. there giving me the run around. I will post here in a day or so to let everyone here no if Vevor's warranty is any good !
Up date. So after three days of negotiation Vevor is sending me a replacement drill. They fist offered me $115.00 compensation I give $348.99 for it (joke) the offers came up with each email. But they did in the end replace the drill. It's unfortunate that it took them three days to come to a replacement. I've lost valuable time navigating there B.S. hope this helps anyone that is looking at Vevor.
Mag Drills / Annular Cutters are extremely useful tools, very underestimated in the USA. The quality ones are gear driven (more like a mill than a drill press) and the annular cutters save a lot of effort and leave very clean holes. I solved the bit length issue when drilling with a 2 in (50mm) small steel plate clamped to my bench. These tools are designed for through holes (it was weird to see that "tenon" application) but if you don't have a lathe I guess you can do that. And finally they are irreplaceable to do holes in a steel table, structural beams and any use you need the drill to go to the mountain, not the mountain go to the drill press.
I have to say, I have a “cheap” Craftsman 1/3 hp router mounted upside down in a router table. It’s been there likely 30+ years. Used for countless woodworking projects, and never taken out for cleaning. It still works perfectly and cost about 1/3 of a Porter-Cable router. I likewise restored an award-winning ‘65 Mustang using largely “cheap” tools purchased from Sears and Harbor Freight. I just don’t buy in to the notion extra money has to be spent on up-grade name brand tools…with rare exceptions.
The terrible runout is due to the bearings. I bought a Vevor mag drill in December, which I tore apart because it had TERRIBLE runout. Almost an 1/8 inch of runout! So I tore it apart, thinking the quill shaft had to be bent, and that I would straighten it. But once I got it apart, which was very difficult, I had to drill out a square key that had been peened in place, I found that the shaft was perfect. (.001 total runout) So I ordered new (NSK brand) bearings that the shaft rides in, a small upper and a larger lower. I received the bearings last week and installed them yesterday. It looks way better to the naked eye, put the indicator on it, and it now has .007 total runout. PLENTY good enough for an annular cutter. So FYI: it's the cheap Chinese bearings causing the horrible runout.
I have been trying to work out a better way to drill larger holes in metal. I bought a triple gear reduced 1/2' keyed chuck VSR drill. Torque and lower speed needed for bigger holes. This drill could break your wrists if you were positioned incorrectly and the bit grabbed. I restored an old tool stand for making a drill press using a drill. It fits my drill. This drill can also twist up the old tool stand rig. I bought a newer heavier/stronger tool stand. Also fits my die grinder. I am concerned that my high torque lower speed drill, could also catch and twist up this new tool stand; so I haven't pushed it as yet. I have a drill press, made for wood. Lowest speed is around 700 rpm. That's why I got the hand drill; highest speed is 600 rpm. I have a very old post drill, from a water turbine powered saw mill. There was no electricity there. It is a hand operated drill press, designed to drill good sized holes in steel. I have some of the original bits too; some sharpened down to stubs. I have some work to do to it to fit a Jacobs chuck, and fix a crack, but this drills slow and with pressure. Perhaps a bit too slow, and a bit tiring LOL I had been working out how to reduce the gearing of my wood work drill press, but this tool has limits to the size of thing that can be drilled with it. I have been thinking up ways to build a stronger tool stand of my own that will handle the torque needed for bigger holes. I don't know why I hadn't considered a mag drill, used as a drill press, as well as being portable by just taking along a piece of steel for a base. Like, shit man, that mag drill looks like it would work better than all what I had in mind.....however; electrical variable speed also means less torque with less rpm's. It would be nice if the drill had something like a continuously variable transmission, so that you had more torque at lower speeds. Gears, like in a common multi speed drill press(pulleys) do the same. Lower gear, more torque. I think another feature, that I would like, is a physical magnet, rather than the electro-magnet; however, I think you are correct, a mag drill may be the way to go to do the jobs I have in mind. What are the RPM's of mag drills? Do they come with gear reduction, rather than reducing electrical power to reduce speed(and torque)? Like to see down to 50 RPM. So now it isn't a $200 mag drill anymore, what? I may yet have to build my own ;-)
Is the anvil fully hardened or just surface hardened? If only surface hardened, you could have a go at using one of those die grinder stones in the chuck to get through the hardened layer, then drill once past that.
Don't you wish Fireball had come out with his vise that broke at 100000 thousand pressure and took over 400 plus face blows with a 90 lb mechanical hammer and never broke the swivel clamp completely? His price for his vise $1800. Outperformed the Wilton by a long way and costs less.
The rule of thumb I use is... Buy the cheapest viable tool you can, If you use it enough to kill it, only then replace it with a better built more reliable one. While learning, it doesn't hurt as much if you ruin the cheap and cheerful tool. You just have to accept the cheap tools often are not reliable in terms of accuracy or longevity :)
Hi there John great video as always. Just a thought.If you wanted to use the drill bit you say doesn't fit because its to long so you'll need to buy shorter drill bits. Why can't you just turn off the magnet ,rock the machine over ,fit the bit and then turn the thing back on?
I'd be really worried about using anything electrical from Vevor at the moment as it looks like none of their goods meet UK standards, I was trying to purchase a welder and sander and couldn't find any power tools for sale on their UK website or Amazon then I came across the trading standards website, there's currently 46 items on manufacturers recall due to not being UK compliant due to bad earthing, poor plugs and some items when checked had extra wire soldered to the outside of fuses, so bypassing the actual fuse cutoff, many are not rated for the higher 240v electric supply we have here in UK and certification was not to standard, there was also a further 60+ reports/items sold by them stopped by customs that were non compliant, obviously they may meet US electrical standards as you differ from the UK but something to ne aware of.
Gave up too easy on that perchill hole. Working with a young guy who was trying to drill through 3/8 stainless angle and he friction drilled 3, 3/8 holes with a Milwaukee hand drill
A very dangerous machine for left-handed smiths as you demonstrated with your hollow bit. All the critical controls a shuffled to the right side. A very good idea poorly executed!
Vevor is awful and I will never purchase any of their crap again. They send incomplete packages and then give their customers the run around asking for videos instead of working to make their defective products right. No one has time to wait for an item to be shipped and then deal with incomplete and defective products just to do a return later. When I purchased something, that means I need that item in my shop and messing with videos and returns makes a company not worth purchasing from. They are worse than harbor freight because at least I can see the product I am getting before I spend my hard earned money.
Hey There Mr. Switzer!! Neat post a little bit ago. If I read this correctly, you MIGHT give this Vevor Magnetic Drill to your friend named Mike!! Am I your NEWEST, BEST Friend named Mike?? he he he he We live 7 miles away from “The World’s Largest Anvil”!! Google it. It’s located in Martinsville ILLINOIS!! Enjoy the ride!! See ya!! I sure enjoy your channel!!
![🔴 ฟุตบอลแชมป์กีฬา 7HD แชมเปียน คัพ 2024 [รอบรองชนะเลิศ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zPm8ClLVhoE/mqdefault.jpg)
VEVOR Magnetic Drill: s.vevor.com/bfQmWy
Coupon code: VVPRO to save 5% off
Pro tip --->when you drill something with a fluted cutter(twist drill for example) on a drill press or this mag drill dont put oil on the peace you are drilling.Instead put it on the end of the flute near chuck.That way as drill spins oil goes down and lubricates the cutting lip.Way much better than squrting a puddle of oil that will never reach bottom of the hole due to burr that is created.
I worked at a Cat dealer and we got a 46 A in that worked in the Ocean. We broke 56 1 inch bolts off with a 21 foot 1 1/2 inch pipe that we couldn’t move with a one inch air gun. After that we drilled every one with a magnetic drill press,and then had the welder burn the rest out to the threads. Two day job.
As always John - I love your lateral thinking for making round from square. 👍👏
we used the mag drills on the railroad..alot !..i was a blacksmith/ fabricator for CSX, 36 yrs.. thanks for sharing..
....Black At Forge...
These mag drills are a great addition to the shop. They are way more efficient at drilling large holes. And you can make a variety of different jigs, stands ect... things like drilling holes in a welding table for clamps. And the holes are excellent finish.
I think this could make a pretty decent drill press for a small shop, like you said in the video. Hard to beat $200. Hopefully mike will give some updates on how the Mag Drill is doing after some use.
Thanks for trying to drill the anvil; was wondering about that!
At the office, we have an older Milwaukee mag drill from when they were a USA company with tools made in the USA. Milwaukee is now a Chinese company, but they continue to make quality professional tools that I would recommend. I’ve been after an inexpensive mag drill for home use for many years. They have been single speed with a fairly high RPM that I feel is less then ideal for larger holes. I’ve almost pulled the trigger on a brand name drill several times, to get one with slow speed, but just couldn’t justify the price for limited use. I finally purchased this exact model of Vevor drill off eBay when I saw the price and that it had variable speed. Out of the box, it appears to be a great value for the money. I’m happy.
I could see this as a great addition to a welders truck. looks great to me
Added bonus is it isn't as painful if it gets stolen or damaged bouncing around in your truck
A cheap way to get a very hard drill bit is to sharpen an drill bit for stonework. Sorry, I do not know the english word for it, in Germany we call it "Steinbohrer mit Widia Spitze". I think, Widia is the same or similar to carbide. To sharpen it you need a special stone for your grinder. Because of the angle on the tip it is not realy cutting, it is more a kind of scraping. But in some case it might work. I have drilled a hole in hardened steel with this method.
My English may not be the best, but I think you are a clever man and understand it.
shop and math TH-cam channel has a video demonstration of doing just that, profiling a masonry bit and drilling through a craftsman wrench.😎
th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your honest feedback.
The tenon idea is pretty clever, so thanks for tossing that nugget into my mental toolbox. Makes me think that a bunch of scrap slugs from annular cutters could also be used to make rivets. Pretty sure that's not a new idea either though...
Oh yes small axle stubs on square stock. Sold!
It does not feel like an advertisement the way you handles these videos. I think you are sharing good information.
Your channel is quickly becoming one of my favorite channels on TH-cam!
Wow, thanks!
@@BlackBearForge The pleasure is all mine, sir! I look forward to seeing your gate project to completion! Cheers!
Thanks for the review John. I've been looking at the Vevor mag drills for several months and this video helped me decide to buy the model shown (the discount was an unexpected bonus!). I was going to buy the 11pcs set of annular cutters to go with the drill, but they're sold out. My first choice was the Hougen HMD900, but at a price difference of almost $650 just for the drill, I couldn't say no to the Vevor.
I just bought one this week. I opted for the additional 12pc cutters. So far so good
I hope it serves you well.
Thanks for the info. Was just looking into one of these today.
nice work, might check this out
That annular cutter trick to make tenons is so clever! Thank you
Glad you like it!
Great review John!! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Nice tool……and wow I didn’t even know about those hollow drill bits, the stuff I learn from you John is awesome. Many thanks for the time you put into these videos of yours.
Vevor sells annular drill bits too.
Thanks for the review, I'd like to get a mag drill for my shop eventually. I really like that it is a variable speed - so many drills aren't and they spin too fast and eat up the drill bits.
I’ve had the many cheap vs one good tool experience all my life. An observation. I’ve made the wrong choice almost every time. One cheap tool that broke was easy to initiate and make a return. As I dropped the box off to return it, this must be the no-brainer choice. But I then had to wait three weeks for a replacement, and learned.
I just bought one of these, but I bought the 1300w version, because it had the forward and reverse, AND because it had the adjustable bolt to double the height of the dovetail, which for some reason the 1550w version seems to be the only one that doesn't have this feature, unless it's hidden in another location.
I would have rather had the 1550w power, but without those 2 extra features, it was a lot more limited in what you can do with it unfortunately.
The 1400w version has all of the features of the 1300w, but it had the fancy ball holder quick set and release, which is really cool, but is also limiting the tool to not being able to use any other cutters etc... Also, the price of it shoots up almost another $200 CAD, so for the extra 1000w, and the limits it put on the drill for me, along with the huge price increase, I figured I would be best off just getting the 1300w with the forward and reverse, that comes with 2 annular cutters and the chuck, which should do damn near everything!
Just my 2 cents...
Thanks for the gret review of the VEVOR MAG DRILL in today's video John. Looks like a great deal for the home owner's shop to keep expences down and get by . It can be a very useful addition to the shop. OLD DAWG DREAMING Fred.
I just bought one of their forges, I realized the one i made gets the job done but i needed something bigger, I feel i got a good deal, torch, with hose, and nozzles, forge, ceramic fiber blanket, thick leather gloves, tonges for $130 Canadian.
good tool review and I liked some of your ideas, thanks
'And today we're gonna look at... mag drill' montage got me really hard, and I had a good chuckle over that one 😂
As much as I dislike cheap imports, the cost of a lot of tools that are produced here in the West are so astronomical that a small shop really doesn't have much of a choice. At $200, that Vevor looks like it's decent enough - even if only as a dedicated tenon-maker that you use only once or twice a year. I could certainly see me adding one to the operation here!
dont forget pretty much all made in america is done with import components...
I just welded up around the pritchel hole on the existing anvil. It's great.
😮. John very interesting and very informational video today. Thanks so much for this information. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge On. Fab On. Weld On. Keep forge lit. Keep Making. God bless.
Yes , they're good , but take that thing apart and grease the bearings , they're programmed to fail with light grease on par with V-oline.
great ideal !
....Black Art Forge...
I rarely need a magnetic drill. But when I do, I REALLY NEED a magnetic drill. Can't beat that price point.❤
You can get a center cutting carbide endmill to drill through the hardened anvil face then switch to a cobalt twist drill to finish the hole, assuming it isn't hardened all the way through. Might be cheaper than a carbide drill, depending on what size and length you need.
Great tip
Use a masonry bit on harder material. You will need to sharpen it before use because it’s ground to cut masonry. Fairly cheap and readily available from most hardware stores.
shop and math TH-cam channel has a video demonstration of doing just that, profiling a masonry bit and drilling through a craftsman wrench.😎
th-cam.com/video/dWEN_MxhGqQ/w-d-xo.html
Using the drill to make tenons isn't a new idea? It most certainly is for me. Brilliant! Thank you for that. It's an approach l can use for installing solid metal spindles in wood rails. Especially the hammered, random sized type. I suppose you could also install a steel plate in a wood bench as well if you need a drill press periodically. One question, does the magnet keep the drilling chips contained? I've used a welding magnet on my drill press for that purpose. Thank you! Cheers.
Glad it was helpful! It doesn't seem to attract the chips
Funny. I did the same thing with a Vevor mag drill applied to my Acciaio anvil, except I had an expensive, sharp, solid carbide drill bit to get through the 1/4" hard layer. Most folks don't have a $50 drill bit just laying around. But if you do, having an actual pritchel hole in the Acciaio anvil solves that nagging problem with them. Don't know why they refuse to tweak their casting form, but whatever. I really like my Vevor mag drill too.
I bought the 1400w with the DeWalt style quick change collar. Setting up for my fourth hole the collar fell apart!! talking to Vevor now about warranty. there giving me the run around. I will post here in a day or so to let everyone here no if Vevor's warranty is any good !
Up date. So after three days of negotiation Vevor is sending me a replacement drill. They fist offered me $115.00 compensation I give $348.99 for it (joke) the offers came up with each email. But they did in the end replace the drill. It's unfortunate that it took them three days to come to a replacement. I've lost valuable time navigating there B.S. hope this helps anyone that is looking at Vevor.
Mag Drills / Annular Cutters are extremely useful tools, very underestimated in the USA. The quality ones are gear driven (more like a mill than a drill press) and the annular cutters save a lot of effort and leave very clean holes. I solved the bit length issue when drilling with a 2 in (50mm) small steel plate clamped to my bench. These tools are designed for through holes (it was weird to see that "tenon" application) but if you don't have a lathe I guess you can do that. And finally they are irreplaceable to do holes in a steel table, structural beams and any use you need the drill to go to the mountain, not the mountain go to the drill press.
Great tip
I have to say, I have a “cheap” Craftsman 1/3 hp router mounted upside down in a router table. It’s been there likely 30+ years. Used for countless woodworking projects, and never taken out for cleaning. It still works perfectly and cost about 1/3 of a Porter-Cable router. I likewise restored an award-winning ‘65 Mustang using largely “cheap” tools purchased from Sears and Harbor Freight. I just don’t buy in to the notion extra money has to be spent on up-grade name brand tools…with rare exceptions.
The terrible runout is due to the bearings. I bought a Vevor mag drill in December, which I tore apart because it had TERRIBLE runout. Almost an 1/8 inch of runout! So I tore it apart, thinking the quill shaft had to be bent, and that I would straighten it. But once I got it apart, which was very difficult, I had to drill out a square key that had been peened in place, I found that the shaft was perfect. (.001 total runout) So I ordered new (NSK brand) bearings that the shaft rides in, a small upper and a larger lower. I received the bearings last week and installed them yesterday. It looks way better to the naked eye, put the indicator on it, and it now has .007 total runout. PLENTY good enough for an annular cutter. So FYI: it's the cheap Chinese bearings causing the horrible runout.
Thanks👍👍
I have been trying to work out a better way to drill larger holes in metal. I bought a triple gear reduced 1/2' keyed chuck VSR drill. Torque and lower speed needed for bigger holes. This drill could break your wrists if you were positioned incorrectly and the bit grabbed.
I restored an old tool stand for making a drill press using a drill. It fits my drill. This drill can also twist up the old tool stand rig. I bought a newer heavier/stronger tool stand. Also fits my die grinder. I am concerned that my high torque lower speed drill, could also catch and twist up this new tool stand; so I haven't pushed it as yet.
I have a drill press, made for wood. Lowest speed is around 700 rpm. That's why I got the hand drill; highest speed is 600 rpm.
I have a very old post drill, from a water turbine powered saw mill. There was no electricity there. It is a hand operated drill press, designed to drill good sized holes in steel. I have some of the original bits too; some sharpened down to stubs. I have some work to do to it to fit a Jacobs chuck, and fix a crack, but this drills slow and with pressure. Perhaps a bit too slow, and a bit tiring LOL
I had been working out how to reduce the gearing of my wood work drill press, but this tool has limits to the size of thing that can be drilled with it. I have been thinking up ways to build a stronger tool stand of my own that will handle the torque needed for bigger holes.
I don't know why I hadn't considered a mag drill, used as a drill press, as well as being portable by just taking along a piece of steel for a base. Like, shit man, that mag drill looks like it would work better than all what I had in mind.....however; electrical variable speed also means less torque with less rpm's. It would be nice if the drill had something like a continuously variable transmission, so that you had more torque at lower speeds. Gears, like in a common multi speed drill press(pulleys) do the same. Lower gear, more torque.
I think another feature, that I would like, is a physical magnet, rather than the electro-magnet; however, I think you are correct, a mag drill may be the way to go to do the jobs I have in mind.
What are the RPM's of mag drills? Do they come with gear reduction, rather than reducing electrical power to reduce speed(and torque)? Like to see down to 50 RPM.
So now it isn't a $200 mag drill anymore, what? I may yet have to build my own ;-)
Is the anvil fully hardened or just surface hardened? If only surface hardened, you could have a go at using one of those die grinder stones in the chuck to get through the hardened layer, then drill once past that.
It's fully hardened
Lot of deflection when that bit started drilling.
I'd buy that if I had my fabrication shop still when I was starting
I have read that its weight is almost 20kgr. Is it really that heavy? Can you easily use it on heights or or drilling on the side?
Hey John we're you able to give us an update on all the hooks and other items you were going to sell?
About half of them have. Hopefully in the next month or so they will all be sold
Don't you wish Fireball had come out with his vise that broke at 100000 thousand pressure and took over 400 plus face blows with a 90 lb mechanical hammer and never broke the swivel clamp completely? His price for his vise $1800. Outperformed the Wilton by a long way and costs less.
That was a great video too! I was totally captivated. 😊
The rule of thumb I use is... Buy the cheapest viable tool you can, If you use it enough to kill it, only then replace it with a better built more reliable one.
While learning, it doesn't hurt as much if you ruin the cheap and cheerful tool. You just have to accept the cheap tools often are not reliable in terms of accuracy or longevity :)
Not a bad plan. I know I have bought tools that didn't get used as much as I thought they would.
Hi there John great video as always. Just a thought.If you wanted to use the drill bit you say doesn't fit because its to long so you'll need to buy shorter drill bits. Why can't you just turn off the magnet ,rock the machine over ,fit the bit and then turn the thing back on?
That helps up to a point but the 1/2" bit was too long even after it was in the chuck.
Put it on the anvil lined up with the hardie hole
I'd be really worried about using anything electrical from Vevor at the moment as it looks like none of their goods meet UK standards, I was trying to purchase a welder and sander and couldn't find any power tools for sale on their UK website or Amazon then I came across the trading standards website, there's currently 46 items on manufacturers recall due to not being UK compliant due to bad earthing, poor plugs and some items when checked had extra wire soldered to the outside of fuses, so bypassing the actual fuse cutoff, many are not rated for the higher 240v electric supply we have here in UK and certification was not to standard, there was also a further 60+ reports/items sold by them stopped by customs that were non compliant, obviously they may meet US electrical standards as you differ from the UK but something to ne aware of.
The "any Steele base" you refer to must be at least 15mm thick. This is clearly noted in the manual.
Gave up too easy on that perchill hole. Working with a young guy who was trying to drill through 3/8 stainless angle and he friction drilled 3, 3/8 holes with a Milwaukee hand drill
LMAO
😂. I will probably try it again with a solid carbide bit
My rule of thumb is for motorized tools, always buy the cheap one because they all break eventually. I’ll spend money on quality hand tools only
What! $200? If you want THE comparison, check out the BDS MAB 845 which costs a little more than $200.
Why not anneal the anvil face, drill the hole, and re-harden the face?🤔
You would need a much larger forge than i have to bring something that large up to heat and the odds of properly hardening it again would be slim.
@@BlackBearForge dirt box forge😝
Nice, but be careful never drill and hold the piece in your hand !
first 6 minutes got me sleepy ...
Well there, lol
A very dangerous machine for left-handed smiths as you demonstrated with your hollow bit. All the critical controls a shuffled to the right side. A very good idea poorly executed!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🍻🍻🍻🥃🥃🥃👍👍👍👀👀👀☕️☕️☕️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Vevor is awful and I will never purchase any of their crap again. They send incomplete packages and then give their customers the run around asking for videos instead of working to make their defective products right. No one has time to wait for an item to be shipped and then deal with incomplete and defective products just to do a return later. When I purchased something, that means I need that item in my shop and messing with videos and returns makes a company not worth purchasing from. They are worse than harbor freight because at least I can see the product I am getting before I spend my hard earned money.
I was not expecting a 2 minute hole that’s way better then I thought I was ready for 5 minutes though haft inch 😂😂might have to get it
Hey There Mr. Switzer!!
Neat post a little bit ago.
If I read this correctly, you MIGHT give this Vevor Magnetic Drill to your friend named Mike!! Am I your NEWEST, BEST Friend named Mike??
he he he he
We live 7 miles away from “The World’s Largest Anvil”!! Google it. It’s located in Martinsville ILLINOIS!! Enjoy the ride!!
See ya!! I sure enjoy your channel!!
Just try to buy American ,British, are European ,even if the cost is ,a lot greater please look after your own
Your asking from a $200 magdrill ehh !yup it chincky choose choo but ehh what else The fact the aftesale, is none existent is the deal brakes me lad