Large Format Film Photography - 4x5 Film Developing/Processing Methods
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- I show various methods I use to develop/process 4x5 B&W film.
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dishes in the dark.
We used to practice with ortho film and a red safelight. 1953.
Grandad and me. I was 8.
Most helpful, Thank you, Craig.
30 mins well spent watching your video! Thanks for spending the time to put it together. It was really useful! Thanks!
Many thanks for a superb video!!
Very informative. Thank you!
Craig: thanks a lot. Very informative.
A little late to the party, but I used to do 4x5 (and 2 1/4 x 3 1/4) sheet processing using the old stainless steel single sheet film racks. I had an old auto battery that I delidded, removed all the plates, and soaked with baking soda solution for a few days to remove acid and let dry. Each cell took about 800 ml of solution. I used the first 3 cells for B&W, or all 6 for Ektachrome. When I processed color I'd put the whole apparatus in a water bath of the correct temperature. Development was done in the dark (I actually had the panchromatic safelight, though it took at least an hour to be able to see anything with it). Agitation was pull out, rotate right, return, pull out, rotate left, put in, 2 to 3 taps letting the rack top drop on the top of the battery. Did this every 30 seconds. Kept another tank in the sink with running water for final wash. I'd process up to three films at a time, which was OK since I generally had two to three pictures to do at a time on large format.
I am getting into a large format world now. This is very comprehensive and instructional to get an idea what developing way I should take. Thank you.
Tray development, one at a time only!
Jobo 3010 tank is the most convenient although it is the most expensive one. If you do 8x10, get Jobo 3005 tank. You will save your time a lot. In any case, you will save the amount of chemicals required.
Thanks for the helpful video! I've been using the MOD54 holder you mention, and I agree with you on both points - hard to load but nice, even development. I've found it is easier to check if the film is correctly loaded by having a long fingernail - you can feel every little slot on the holder and check if the film is in its own slot pretty easily. It still takes some extra time and it's extra finicky in a changing bag, but I've never made a mistake in loading or had a sheet pop out during processing (yet). I also really like the Patterson tank because I can just put it under the sink and run water into it for the wash at the end - the water flows down the funnel, to the bottom of the tank, and then up across the film before it flows out. The MOD54 also takes a lot of chemistry - a liter of each solution just to develop 6 sheets.
Also, the chemist in me is nervous about putting film chemistry in contact with your mouth - no telling what fixer does to your body, or what a drop of saliva will do to the development.
Thank you , very informative video
Wow. Amazing
very very nice comparison!
For the Mod45 tank, my trick is to load 3 sheets into the inner most slot together then pop 2 sheets out to the 2nd slot, then pop the last sheet to the outer most slot. Do it once side at a time. If you apply pressure from the side, the pop out quite easily Takes about a minute much faster than loading roll film onto a pool
Thank you. Will recommend this to my students tomorrow. Appreciate. Worth a try.
Thank you very much for this comprehensive explanation of large format film developing options. I'm currently waiting on 20th Century Camera's 6 sheet 4x5 film reel and their 4 sheet 5x7 reel, both used with a Patterson 116 3 roll tank, currently subject to the Post Office's tender mercies. While I wait I thought I'd go over, once again, all of the alternatives (you know, just in case I see something that makes me slap my hand to my forehead and cry in despair, "What have I done!)
Nope. I looked at all of these before I bought 20th Century Camera's stuff and I got it right! Well, there's a first time for everything... ;)
One thing I thought of during your presentation. I've developed sheet film (4x5, 5x7 and 8x10) in trays for 25 or so years and one tremendous advantage of trays is that you can process as many or as few sheets of film as you have. With many of these other methods I imagine that one might be tempted to "save" exposed film until you have enough for a full tank or drum. And if you have more film than you can fit into the tank or the drum you have to carefully dry everything off before loading new film to process, because wet film sticks to everything, especially other sheets of film. With trays I can process from one to as many sheets as I think I can handle (my personal maximum is 12 sheets of 4x5, 8 of 5x7 or 4 of 8x10, before I run a risk of scratching film .) And if I have more than that I can replenish the chemistry (if needed,) put in more film and go. And, as for the dreaded fear of scratches there are two means of greatly reducing the chances. 1. Film face down. And more importantly, plenty of chemistry. 16 US ounces in an 8x10 tray for 4x5 or 5x7, in an 11x14 tray for 8x10. It is extremely rare for me to scratch film, although after 25 years I've had plenty of practice!
Anyway, thanks for the video: it was both interesting and informative. Now I'm off to process my six sheets of exposed 4x5, two sheets of 5x7, three rolls of 35mm and the one lonely roll of 120 that I found hiding behind my chemical scale on top of the UV light box. Happy New Year!
Great thanks!
To avoid scratches, develop the film emulsion side down, and orient the stack so they are all aligned, not cris-crossed. Don't tip the tray to agitate - that is where the jostling scratches the film. Instead, continuously cycle through the sheets: slide out the bottom sheet, and drop it on the top of the stack, draw out the next one, and drop it, etc. To prevent uneven development, I switch the side from which I'm pulling the sheets during processing.
It’s cool ! Merci
Thanks for the tip about the castors, I have this tank but it will not fit on the Jobo processor with the guide rollers.
I was just given the Combi tank and used it already . It really takes a long time to fill but my film came out perfect and it was easy to load in my changing bag. Unfortunately i don't have that little funnel.
Extremely helpful!!! Thanks a lot!!!
Craig, thank you very much for taking the time to put this video together, (And, all of your other videos too!). I am surprised that you don't cover the "taco method" of developing 4 x 5 film negatives.
I am going to make a guess that, most 4 x 5 photographers didn't start with large format. They most likely started their journey with 35mm or medium format. If so, one of the most ubiquitous developing tanks for 35mm and 120 roll film is the, Paterson Universal tank. With this tank, you can develop two rolls of 35mm film, or one roll of 120 film, (Using the included "spools" to load your film on to.). So, most of us "film shooters" most likely already own a developing tank, prior to becoming a "4 x 5 shooter". And, most likely the tank is something like the Paterson Universal tank.
When I started shooting 4 x 5 film, I wanted to develop the sheets with what I already had on hand; not spending any more money then I had to. I place the Paterson tank, funnel, and "light tube" inside of a "dark bag". I also include two film cassettes as well. With the dark bag sealed up, I remove one sheet of film from a cassette, curl it so that the emulsion side is facing "inward", and I place a "hair scrunchy" around it so that the sheet of film retains its curled, "taco" shape. I do this two other sheets, then I insert the light tube and lock the funnel in place. From there I am good to do with my developing process.
Some people can seem to fit 4 sheets inside this tank. I suppose if I curled mine tighter I might be able to do this too. But, it just doesn't "feel" right to me. Three sheets seems to work fine for me with no issues. That said, when I shoot my Calumet 4 x 5 camera, I am always thing in terms of "three exposures". That's because I develop sheets in groups of "three at a time". So, if I am shooting Ilford Delta 100 film, I might shoot three exposures at an Exposure Index of 100. Then, I might shoot three more exposures at an EI of 200, and three more at an EI of 50. Follow me?
I have found that, 800ml of developer is plenty to cover the sheets of film. And, although Ilford says that Ilfosol 3 is a "one shot" developer, I do not toss it out after developing three sheets of film! I will reuse it for the next batch of "three" I am developing and I extend those sheet's developing time about 10%, ( I will vary that percentage depending upon temperature.).
I am just trying to offer yet another way of "getting there", and thank you very, very much for all that you have been sharing of your experience and wisdom. Your contributions have helped me a great deal!
B.
Barry Buchanan 👍
I have two reel tank I use rubber band to taco 🌮 my 4x5 I even have to taco it horizontally to fit 2reel tank
Such a simple idea, it would be easy to overlook this creative way to use the equipment you have on hand for developing sheet film, particularly if you are just starting out taking pictures with 4" x 5" film. For those looking for good, used equipment, check with the photography departments of local universities and technical schools. Many film photographers donated their large format film equipment to such schools when they switched to digital, and this equipment takes up a lot of storage space, if no one is using it. They can become desperate trying to figure out how to put this equipment back in service, without upsetting the donors, while getting back valuable storage space at their school. Start by offering to lease what you need for $1 per month, or offer to sign up for a photography course if they will allow free use of the equipment.
I don't even shoot large format, but man, this was an incredibly informative video. Great work.
+Ben Thanks! The large format community is growing daily and there is always room for another (hint, hint).
I agree. Paterson tank is a giant pain to load. I always have problems. Particularly in a bag. The Combi Plan looks interesting. I'm using a Yankee 12 sheet tank and have some problems with uneven development around the edges
+Tim Lowe The Yankee tanks are terrible. They only work well for stand development in Rodinal. I recommend the Combi Plan, though you can only find them second hand now.
Bedsore use to make a rotator, also harbor freight has one for polishing stones as well
I use the Combiplan tank also, and it can lead to uneven developement, but only if you use short deverlopement times. I use mostly Ilfort FP4+ and Fomapan 100 and develope with ID-11 in the dillution 1+3. FP4+ (and also Delta 100 and HP5+) takes then 20 minutes and the Fomapan 100 takes 17 minutes. With these times you'll never get uneven developement.
An other point I like about the Combiplan is that you can adjust the filmholder for different sizes of sheet film. You can adjust it to accept 4"x5", 9x12 cm and 6,5x9 cm sheetfilm.
And if you turn the sides of the filmholder around, it wil even accept glass plates of those sizes. So, it's a very versatile developement tank.
The Combi-plan has always worked well for me. I know people either love it or hate it. It is a versatile system!
Paterson tank + MOD54 is actually very easy to understand and loading quickly becomes a habit. I did experience some mistakes during my first few loads, but even then it had no effect to development. But this tank take a too much of developer per one sheet, which is not a big problem if you reuse your developer. I always use central spinner for agitating. My next method is going to be SP455 - I want to use less developer.
Hi ,Craig you could have just put jobo 251 & 3010 casters on the same board,saving space just by adding an extra pair of casters to your 3010 ie total 3 pairs of casters. Saves space so you can buy something else for the camera.
+Darling , that's an excellent idea!
Have you experienced any uneven development on the edges from the Jobo reels? Also, there are plastic pieces that touch the negative along the edges to keep them centered in the between the guides. The developer cannot get under those bumpers and actually causes increased development as the chemical flows around them. It is on the edges but can affect up to 1/8 inch of the film. I also load my film with the emulsion downward. You said the wings prevent that uneven development, they do not on mine, so I am going to start putting emulsion side up again.
excellent video. I have the Jobo 2520 tank and reel, and I find putting the wings on the most difficult part and I don't use the film guide. I am using the Jobo 2520 now with a unicolor motor base and a homemade device made from stove pipe that I put the tank into and then onto the motor base. I have 2 combi plan units, they are the easiest method I have found, but they take a lot of chemicals. And the worst, most annoying part is that they leak at the bottom cap. I quit using them because of that. Does your combi plan tanks leak at the bottom cap, and if not did you do something to prevent it? I am about to receive a Kickstarter development tank that holds 4 sheets and takes less chemicals than the Combi. Again, very good video.
the guide rail on the combi plan doesnt lock in place
Has anyone tried the Yankee CF-45 version of the Combi Plan HP since the Combi has been discontinued?
Is there any reason that I couldn't use either the JOBO 2520 or the SP-445 for developing color film? There seem to be a few videos providing instructions on developing 35mm color negatives, and all claim it's easy. Some even say it's easier than B&W and that, if you're learning, to start on color film. However I can't find one video or blog post describing developing large format color film. What am I missing here?
I use the CombiPlan tank. I put it on the side and fill it through the outlet to speed the filling process up. Then the air can escape from the inlet "tap". Then I plug both taps and start the agitation as normal. The CombiPlan has many parts and can be a little leaky, but it takes the 6,5x9 and 9x12 sizes that I use.
Thanks for the video Craig. Do you have the same problems with scratches on the Jobo expert drum for 4x5 as you mentioned you do get from the 8x10 drum.
+Michael Olivares I do not have the micro scratching issue with the 4x5 drum. The 4x5 drum does not require that the negative be curled as much as with the 8x10 to place the sheet in an individual film chamber.
What is wrong with the traditional tray?
Hi Craig, the device for charging JOBO drum 2820 is it suitable also for charging 9X12 cm.? (9X12 cm. is an ancient european format). Thanks for answer.
Hi Craig! Just curious I have a steel developer canister I got with a bunch of darkroom stuff. It is very similar to the JoBO one you mentioned however, this one you simply open it up, pull out the metal cylinder and insert the sheet negatives, it holds a total of 12 sheets. What would be the ratio and total ml for such a developing canister?
hey there, thanks for the informative video. the Cambi Plan is discontinued do you recommend any other of this style that works well?
never mind ... just saw your other video on the SP 445. thanks for that
I would like to hear your ideas about the newer sp 445 tank. I have tried and like it. It is the output of a kickstarter project.
+Barry McMickle I have one and have used it several times. I think it works well. There are a few issues I have with it, but overall I am a fan. I actually planned on doing a review video on it soon.
Great - look forward to seeing your video - Thanks
What is the cost comparison between doing it yourself or sending it in to be developed?
The MOD54 uses a 4-reel tank? Or 3? I hear 4, wanna make sure.
Sadly I have cracked one of the chambers on my Expert drum. Can you recommend a suitable waterproof adhesive to repair it?
Sorry to hear that. Perhaps flex seal product might work. www.flexsealproducts.com
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply. I will give them a look
I need some help please. I bought a jobo multitank 2 and I can't understand how much chemistry I need to use. The information on the drum is confusing. Can I get away with 500ml for 6 sheets of 4x5 and rotate the drum on the horizontal axis or do I need to pour 1500ml of chemicals and fill it to the brim?
Use 560ml for 6 sheets and rotate it horizontally.
Thanks
Pre washing a film before developing it .....What is the use of it ?
Good info. Have you tried the BTZS tubes? I got them from viewcamerastore.com - 6 small tubes and a water bath that the tubes float in for agitation. Each 4x5 film goes into it's own tube. Each one uses 2oz of developer. If you need to develop a batch of film for different times, it's the way to go. I've found it to be the best method and I've tried most of the methods in your video.
Does this curl the film and now its not straight
Mod 54, mod 54, where are you?
Tray processing is not done.
Criss-cross??? What? Ok stop it doesn't need to be crisscrossed. I've developed hundreds on 3 trays in the tiny apartment bathroom.
I used to process my own film back in the 1960s and 1970s, but I never heard of a pre-wash. But now every YT video on film processing mentions the pre-wash, but none of them explains what it is, what it does, what chemical it uses, or how long it has to be done and at what temperature.
Even you describe this video as film developing/processing methods, but all you say is how to load the film and how to unload it. Not how to process/develop it. Very frustrating even to me who used to do it decades ago. And I can only imagine how frustrating all these videos must be to anyone who has never developed film, when all any of them talk about is the containers to use and how to pour the chemicals in and out, but no one ever mentions what those chemicals are, in what order they are used, for how long, let alone the all important temperature (yes, back in my youth I ruined many rolls of film because I had no idea the chemical had to be at a very specific temperature, luckily there was no TH-cam so I had to read books and those did explain it because no publisher would have printed a book that does not explain it all).
So anyway, what is a pre-wash, and what chemical does it use, for how long and at what temperature?
Pre-wash is simply treating the film in water prior to developing it to swell the gelatin emulsion and get rid of the anti-halation layer. The film is like a sponge and if you don’t do a pre-wash the developer can absorb into the emulsion at slightly different rates i the beginning or development. This can lead to uneven spots. The pre-wash is especially critical with older film in which the emulsion may be more dried out. But in my opinion it is equally important with fresh film too.
@@CraigSheaks Thanks for the detailed explanation.
To help ensure even development (wetting the emulsion evenly prior to introduction of developer)
Craig, great summary but you missed one: th-cam.com/video/QpWt88sju7M/w-d-xo.html
(It's only been out for a few weeks.)
Pre wash of the sheet film has never been advised to do by any film brand or photo chemical brand.
The 1947 american book on the Speed Graphic camera did not mention the pre washing of 4 x 5 sheet films.
The pre wash of the negative glass plates, sheet films, roll films, 35 mm, 16 mm and miniature films, made by Agfa, Ansco, Adox, Orwo, Gevaert, Forte, Ferrania, Foma, Tura, Sakura, Konica, Fuji, Kodak or Ilford had never been advised by the film brands, the phot labs, the photographers and the photo amateurs.
There is no need of running water in the negatve and positive darkrooms.
Beware of any power shut down; the elctric film developing tank will stop rotating and the process can not proceed.
Be smart, do not prepare in the kitchen your own photochemical liquids by dissolving the powders of the developer, stopbath and fixer.
Buyinguy the concentrate liquids to be dilluted by plain water is much easier to do.
World's best film developer is Agfa Rodinal / Adox Adonal. Rodinal is a one shot developer to be dilluted 1: 25 and 1 : 50.
For special purposes mix Rodinal / Adonal to 1 : 10 or 1 : 100 and 1 : 200.
Rodinal works well for all brands of 35 mm film, roll film and sheet film; it is the soup for all seasons.
Be prepared of water shortage; have a jerrycan filled with 5000 cc water. Finding the correct temperature by running hot water from the heater is not wise. Just mix some hot water to the cold water.
Tray developing can cause a lot of damage to the sheet film:
1.Spots of fog will occure by the fingers because of pressyng down the sheet film.
2. The heat of the fingers will rise the temperature of the developer.
3. Over developing of the film will happen, where the film is touched by the heat of the fingertips.
4. Moving the films to the next tray will spoil the previous liquid.
Tray developng of sheet film will need six trays: pre wash, developer, stopbath, fixer, washer, wetting agent rinsing.
Our family is in photography for more than a century and is knows Agfa Rdinal for ages.
Never put the bottles with the photo chemicals on a shelf; just put them in a plastric container on the floor.
Greetings, Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam - The Netherlands
K
It’s fucking insane these cumbersome processes are endorsed and used in 2021. most of this gear could be DIY for a few dollars.
Tray developing, why? you showed all the faults so it really doesn't work, either tank or use racks to develop large format
People might have the trays already if they're wet printing their stuff (me) and not want to buy another developing tank
Why? Because it works and requires minimal equipment. Ansel Adams used this method, and I doubt he would have if it didn’t work.
Tis is what's wrong with photography: it is ladened by devices. There is no way this actually makes developing better.