Great video. Just what I needed, mine will be here by Monday. It's nice to have the numbers on the batteries. I appreciate that. Thank you for your work getting this video out.
Great informational video. It helped me solve an issue I was having with the SOC intermittently resetting. I did not realize there was a SOC reset option in the settings. I found a loose connection at the shunt positive power connector. Thanks!!!
Excellent! My only nit is that you setup the "Discharge Floor" to 10%...which makes sense to me...but the Victron display (near the end of the video) shows it back up to 50%. We are putting one in next week and your video is a great help. Thanks again!
Brilliant! Thank you very much for sharing. Solved the problem I was having. I'd connected the negative pole of the charger directly to the battery instead of to the system negative, and thiswas mesing up the reading. Now it's working perfectly! Subscribed!
The principle is the same for one battery or multiple, nothing changes. If you are having SOC inconsistencies I would venture to guess that your battery bank wiring could use some optimization. Got any pictures of how they are wired? All parallel or series/parallel combo??
If you keep using comma instead of dots, your settings will be wrong. For example your peukert exponent was set to 1,05 instead of 1.05, which then set it to 1.50... pretty bad if you don't notice the mistake.
Nice video. I loves how you explain it in detail and show exactly how to set it up. I have 2 questions: 1 is , does this shunt that you are showing in the video, is the victron BMV-712 the same set up and programing? And the second question is: do you have a video explaining also in detail how to install and setup and programing the settings for the victron orion dc to dc isolated 12/12/30 ? Thanks.
Thank you. This helps so much. I just got a LiTime 230Ah battery. LiTime says that the bulk voltage as well as the absorption voltage is 14.4 +/- 0.2. What should I set the Victron SmartShunt charged voltage to 14.2, 14.1 or 14.0?
@jwalt313 I would set bulk at 14.4 and absorption at 13.6 on the charge controller and the "charged voltage" on the shunt set to 14.0 or 14.2. Anthony over 14 is going to mean the battery is fully charged.
I have a Victron 100/30 with two 100 ah lithium batteries will the Victron shunt 500 monitor the two batteries. Do I need to use the auxiliary side for second battery…thanks for your help
When you combine batteries in Series, the voltage doubles but the useable storage in AH stays the same. Adding in parallel increases your capacity in AH but the voltage remains the same. You should be set at 24V and 100AH.
At last! great video with proper explanations, many thanks. However I do have one question, the Tail current in the BMV-712 is expressed as a percentage (2%), but the Tail current in my Victron MMPT 75/15 regulator is expressed as an Amp setting (currently 2.0 amps. How do you calculate the setting for the MPPT regulator please? I would like to see the same sort of video on the Victron MPPT regulator including everything in the "Expert Mode" like Rebulk offset mode etc.
This is an excellent walkthrough for lithium. I have 2 Costco (Interstate) 6v golf cart batteries wired in series to make 12v. I have looked online for the program values you show but I haven’t been successful. Can you help me find that resource? Also, for the charge voltage, I will have 3 different options. Generator, shore power, and vehicle alternator. How do I know what charge voltage each one is putting out? How critical is the .2 below that rate? What main screen value is using that information? Thank you
@danielg.1707 The voltages will be different as this was made with a 12v battery bank in mind but you should be able to just multiply all voltages in this video by (4) and be very close to what you need!
@BeeBeorn That is true. The range issue for the smart shunt is primarily because the Bluetooth on the smart shunt is emitted from the shunt itself while the BMV-712 emits the Bluetooth signal from the screen.
Appreciate the advice, thanks so much. I’ve just installed the smart shunt. First step to switching to lithium. Some of us are still running 2 6v. Are the factory settings good for the 6v?
These voltages are described for Lithium batteries as most people use voltage numbers to estimate state of charge for lead batteries. A shunt is almost useless for lead acid batteries as their performance decays much faster than lithium and the state of charge will not be very accurate.
Good question! To the best of my knowledge, the updates are downloaded and held in the app while you have service on your device. After that, the update can be performed anytime from that device whether you currently have service or not. So as long as the device with the victron app installed gets service periodically you should be able to update the devices without having service at the time of the update.
I have 2x 100amp/hr Dragonfly Lithiums batteries wired in PARALLEL. Should the negative battery to battery jumper be moved to the “system minus” lug of the shunt or stay on the battery negative terminal, along with the wire from the “Battery minus” lug on the shunt? Thanks in advance!
@@kennedyhobson3384 battery terminal to battery terminal, then one supply wire from the negative to the battery side of the shunt. All negative lines now connect to the shunt on the system minus side.
I have no other negative connections. Nothing connected to the “system minus” except the “coach” negative lead. The battery negative post has both the jumper from the second battery and the shunt’s “battery minus” cable. This is how I installed, then wondered about it. Thanks for your very fast response! Much appreciated!
I'm confused, (not unusual). I just installed the IP 65 version in our RV. I currently have 2 LiTime 100 amp lithiums hooked in parallel. The negative cable from each battery, 2 total, are hooked to the Batt side of shunt, the load side has a single cable to a buss bar where all the rest of the coach grounds are hooked. All settings on the app are mirroring yours in the video except I have the amperage set to 200. Is this not a correct orientation?
@hansmarius21 you should always consult the manufacturer of your batteries for the most accurate solution but generally speaking, Series configuration puts you at 36v roughly so just multiple these settings by 3.
great info man! really good vid. QUESTION!! my victron 30/100 controller to 4 100ah batts in para. with 400watt array controller reads 14.41v and in float, smart shunt shows 13.32. what do you think is going on here? any help is welcomed. thanks again for vid.
Thanks for the feedback! The controller voltage will reflect what it being put out for charging voltage, not necessarily the voltage of the batteries themselves. Once the controller goes into float the voltages will be very similar.
@@rvsolarconcepts well im not getting same voltage even when array is not feeding power, thats why I was asking. any suggestions at what I should look at? thanks.
@@ricardocuevas2245 Then you are getting a voltage drop somewhere between the positive battery terminal and the charge controller positive battery terminal. This could be several things, I would personally advise you to check for inadequate wire size, wire landed to a bus bar that has a load on it causing the voltage to dip, length of wire between the battery and the controller, etc...
This might be a stupid question… Im using the victron smart shunt to power a trolling motor. It’s just connected to my li time 100 ah battery. Would the setting still all be the same?
Great video mate. I have one question. I’m installing one in a ford ranger tub. You say nothing else can go on the negative terminal other than the wire from shunt. So does that mean I even take the earth wire off of my battery? Therefore I should earth the shunt? Correct?
That is correct my friend! Move all grounds to the load side of the shunt otherwise power will be making it back to the battery without running through the shunt and therefore will not be calculated in the state of charge and will cause deviations and inaccuracies over time.
It’s all good. I’ve installed the shunt and it’s been running well for the past 2 months. The video did help cheers mate. Think 1 small issue I’m having is it’s saying my fridge is only using 0.12ah which might be correct since it is winter here. And I could be reading it when the compressor is off.
@user-dz4dh8vm7k ok cool. I don't know anything about your particular system or setup but if you have solar charging, make sure all of the amperage numbers you gather are at night or with the solar turned off otherwise the solar production may be making up some or all of the load so the amount actually coming from the battery through the shunt will indicate a number that wouldn't otherwise make any sense.
Quick question I just changed all of my setting that you have for a 12V LifePO4 100Ah battery. I just fully charged up my battery to 100% with the setting on CLEAR. Would it automatedly read 100% SOC? Or is there another step I need to do for a accurate reading of the SOC of my battery? Thanks!
Set the SOC calibration voltage to .2 LESS than the actual fully charged voltage so every time the shunt sees that voltage it automatically calibrates to 100%
The only thing we keep in mind when doing our installs is we do not put that red power wire on anything that could be shut off with a disconnect. You want the shunt to have constant power at all times so it doesn't lose its calibration.
always on the positive post ! you want to measure actual battery voltage not the dropped voltage over your wiring under load. because that throws off the measurement.
What victron shunt will work with a 560ah battery bank.( Lifepo4) Will the same one work if i double the battery bank? Not sure what I'm going with just yet. That's a 12v system.
Battery bank size doesn't affect which shunt you need to use. You need to know the amperage that you plan on running through the DC system. The one in the video is the most commonly used and it is rated at 500 amps.
@EdwinTorres-vb5nc depends on what your charging it with. Victron MPPTs default to an adaptive absorption which works well but when I program one of their inverters I set the absorption values to their minimum times. I have another video showing how to program an Victron inverter that covers that somewhat. General rule of thumb is 20 minutes per battery.
I am looking for a shunt to use to measure battery capacity… but I think this setup looses all the data once the battery discharges. I was hoping the aux battery input would keep it awake, but it doesn’t seem to. Issue is SmartShunt resets and looses connection when the battery voltage drops too low. This makes it useless for me. In my opinion the power for the shunt electronics should come from the auxiliary battery… that would be much better. This SmartShunt has no value to me without the ability to keep alive. What am I missing?
It definitely is not the tool to use if you are looking for long term tracking. We have been frustrated with the same problems that you are describing but I don't believe Victron has any intentions of revamping the shunt to store the data unfortunately...
Yea, you are probably right. With the low cost of microprocessors you would think a Wifi version could exist with a web browser interface and on board storage… hey Toshiba had WiFi access built into to an SD flash card and that was many years ago. I guess I expect too much. It also disconnects every time you switch to another app and has to reconnect when you bring it back to the foreground on IOS. Unless I’m missing something, it’s a toy. I’m sending it back.
@@rvsolarconcepts The airstream interstate 19 came with 2 100AH Battleborn Deep Cycle LiFEPO4 batteries wired in series (250 Watts Solar -- 150 watts goes to the house battery, and 100 watts goes to the chassis battery). I recently found out from online forums that owners are changing the wiring of these panels from "series" to "parallel'. What will the battery setting be for SERIES? and if ever I change to "PARALLEL', can you also let me know what the battery setting for that would be? Also, for the battery preset, do I choose "Gel Victron deep discharge (1)" , Gel Victron deep discharge (2), or something else? Thank you for the prompt response.
@MeljunGomezMSNP-C We don't entertain very many installations on Airstream models so i don't have have a ton of experience with that platform specifically, but that sounds strange for the RV market... If the batteries are in fact in series then your system is running on 24 volts not 12 and your settings would need to reflect that. If that is the case, you can't simply change the wiring to parallel otherwise you'll drop the overall voltage to 12 volts and then your 24v equipment won't operate. If it's actually a 12v system then use the settings as described, if it's a 24v system multiple the settings in the video by 2 and that should be acceptable as well assuming you have lithium batteries.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you. That answered my questions. I will do more research about possibly rewiring but will leave everything as it is for the meantime. Thank you again for this very detailed post of yours.
I will have two 300 ah Lipo4 batteries wired in parallel. They will have the positive and negative wires from my solar controller going to them to charge them. You said I cannot have any connections to my negative terminal. That said where and how would I run my cables from my solar controller to my batteries? I always run these connections directly to the positive and negative post of my batteries.
@holylick5522 is exactly correct. When you have multiple connections it is best to use buss bars for all of the connections and then have one main wire from the buss bar to the shunt load side.
Question, if i have a bank of 4 12v in series 100ah each, how do i put it in there. 48 volt 400 ah or still 12 v. Then connect the red to the positive where?
If they are all in series then you'll have 48v 100AH. That's what you'll input in the app as well. The positive wire to the shunt can be landed on the positive battery terminal or bus bar.
No matter how many batteries you have, there should still only be 1 positive terminal and 1 negative terminal being used for power transfer functions. The shunt just needs to reside between the loads and the negative battery terminal no matter how many batteries you have.
Hope you can help. I can find and connect but when I click on the shunt it connects but its just product info, pin code, name, firmware, bootloader... If i hit the back arrow goes back to Device list, but the smart shunt is gone... Help
Hello all, hopefully can get some help I'm slightly struggling. I have a DC House 51.2v battery which I have been using with a Victron MPPT 100/20 along with 2x 535w Panels. It works perfecty 0 issues for the last 2 weeks but I decided I wanted to view the % of my battery so I purchased a Victron too, just struggling to workout when my battery is truly fully charged? I set it to the LifePO4 setting inside of victron but as soon as it goes out of float the voltage drops to 53.3v everyday? Any help would be appriciated!
For a 48V nominal battery bank (56.8 full charge with lithium), all of your numbers will be 4X what is displayed in the video here. I would recommend following this video and setting it up in expert mode with your own voltages so you control all the aspects of its readings and don't leave any of it to generic settings from Victron. As for the voltage drop this sounds completely normal to me. Once lithium is placed under a load and comes off of its fully charged voltage (14.2 in the video example or in your case 56.8V) it will drop significant to its "resting" fully charged voltage of 13.3V for 12V systems or 53.2V for 48V battery banks. This is the normal reaction to lithium being placed under a load after fully charging and isn't affecting your actual state of charge it is just dropping down into its useable voltage range. Just make sure you have your "charged Voltage" setting set around 56.4 to 56.8 and you'll be about as reliable as you can get it.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you for the quick reply! I managed to set it up waited for the battery to stop charging then set it to 100%. I noticed that I had 0% battery when I used 47AH out of 50AH. Does this mean I completely screwed up the calibration? :(
@@rvsolarconcepts Damn! Quick reply again! So my battery is DC House 51.2v 50AH. Victron Absorption is set to 58.4v Float is set to 54v Shunt is set as per your video apart from charged voltage is 58.2v. Thanks,
@@rvsolarconcepts My Victron 150/35 says 900w is coming in but on the shunt, I don't see the battery going up it's like it doesn't register, I did exactly what you said didn't connect the pv to the battery I did it to a bar only thing I connected to the batter negative is the shunt and the shunt is connected to the bar for the Pv. the positive is connected to the battery it is not on a bar, direct connection.
Make sure you have the connections on the shunt in the correct orientation. The one going to your bus bar needs to be on the "system minus" side of the shunt and the one from your negative battery terminal needs to go on battery minus. Also make sure your batteries aren't fully charged already otherwise the solar power will be present but the batteries will have disconnected themselves from the charging circuit showing 0 amperage going in.
It doesn't need to be charged at initial install, but once you're up and running you will need to fully charge the battery in order for the shunt to calibrate.
What exactly are you wanting to see? The principal is the exact same, the only thing that changes is the voltage and amperage that you'll see going through it...
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Well done Justin. This would have to be the best explanation on lithium battery settings that I have viewed.
Thank you sir!
Absolutely! Especially the unique settings and what they mean!! Great job!
Good detailed explanation of settings (just got mine configured). Thank you for sharing...
My smart shunt will be delivered today. Im so glad l found this video!! Best one ive seen!!
@@joelynch1059 thank you!
Great video. Just what I needed, mine will be here by Monday.
It's nice to have the numbers on the batteries. I appreciate that. Thank you for your work getting this video out.
@donanything6816 You're welcome! Thanks for the support on the channel, glad it helped you out!
This is great. I’d love to see one on lead acid batteries
I appreciate this video, Heped me out tremendously. Good job explaining it in such simple terms.
@siriusmac Thank you, we appreciate your support and are happy you gained something from it!
Great informational video. It helped me solve an issue I was having with the SOC intermittently resetting. I did not realize there was a SOC reset option in the settings. I found a loose connection at the shunt positive power connector. Thanks!!!
@haroldanderson6021 Awesome glad it helped you out!! Thanks for the support!
Thank you very much for such an informative review of all the shunt setting options.Very appreciated.
Thank you this was the most comprehensive setup for this unit I ever saw on TH-cam.
@@minceym you're welcome!
Thank you for doing this. Very much appreciated!
@joshdees5659 you're welcome, thanks for the support on the channel!
I’m trying to learn all I can! Very helpful!
Great video since I switched from agm to lifepo4. This was very helpful with the settings
@richmarriott7468 Awesome, glad it helped ya!
Excellent! My only nit is that you setup the "Discharge Floor" to 10%...which makes sense to me...but the Victron display (near the end of the video) shows it back up to 50%. We are putting one in next week and your video is a great help. Thanks again!
Yeah that's just my begginer editing/video making skills showing 😆 glad it helped though!
Best Vid I've seen on the subject. Thank you!
@@anthonybiancone3780 thank you sir! We appreciate the support.
Brilliant! Thank you very much for sharing.
Solved the problem I was having. I'd connected the negative pole of the charger directly to the battery instead of to the system negative, and thiswas mesing up the reading.
Now it's working perfectly! Subscribed!
Glad you got it figured out! Thanks for your support!
Excellent explanation and instruction
Thanks buddy. Very useful - I'm off to my shed to reprogram my shunt!
Nice demo fro one battery... I have 8x48V LiFePo4 and the smart shunt SoC is always off by a mile or 2...
The principle is the same for one battery or multiple, nothing changes. If you are having SOC inconsistencies I would venture to guess that your battery bank wiring could use some optimization. Got any pictures of how they are wired? All parallel or series/parallel combo??
If you keep using comma instead of dots, your settings will be wrong. For example your peukert exponent was set to 1,05 instead of 1.05, which then set it to 1.50... pretty bad if you don't notice the mistake.
Good catch! Didn't realize during the filming that it reverted to 1.5, thanks!
Nicely done! Thank you!
Thanks bud straight to the point 👍
Fantastico, ottima spiegazione, grazie ancora delle informazioni-
Very nicely done. Ty
Nice video. I loves how you explain it in detail and show exactly how to set it up. I have 2 questions: 1 is , does this shunt that you are showing in the video, is the victron BMV-712 the same set up and programing? And the second question is: do you have a video explaining also in detail how to install and setup and programing the settings for the victron orion dc to dc isolated 12/12/30 ? Thanks.
Extremely good information!!! Thank you.
You're welcome!
Thank you. This helps so much. I just got a LiTime 230Ah battery. LiTime says that the bulk voltage as well as the absorption voltage is 14.4 +/- 0.2. What should I set the Victron SmartShunt charged voltage to 14.2, 14.1 or 14.0?
@jwalt313 I would set bulk at 14.4 and absorption at 13.6 on the charge controller and the "charged voltage" on the shunt set to 14.0 or 14.2. Anthony over 14 is going to mean the battery is fully charged.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you so much
Wow, great information! Would you please list the settings for us underlings (Lol) still using AGM?
@Ekanselter you will want to get those numbers from the manufacturer of your specific battery otherwise we may be giving you bad info.
Great info, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Good simple explanation. Thanks.
Thanks for the support!
Very helpful thanks mate! 🇦🇺
Excellent.😊
I have a Victron 100/30 with two 100 ah lithium batteries will the Victron shunt 500 monitor the two batteries. Do I need to use the auxiliary side for second battery…thanks for your help
Yes it will monitor the entire bank as long as you wire it correctly, as shown in the video! There is no need for the aux input.
Thank you
If I have two 100Ah batteries wired in series for 24 V. Would I set my victron smart shunt to 100ah or 200Ah. Thank you this was very helpful
When you combine batteries in Series, the voltage doubles but the useable storage in AH stays the same. Adding in parallel increases your capacity in AH but the voltage remains the same. You should be set at 24V and 100AH.
At last! great video with proper explanations, many thanks.
However I do have one question, the Tail current in the BMV-712 is expressed as a percentage (2%), but the Tail current in my Victron MMPT 75/15 regulator is expressed as an Amp setting (currently 2.0 amps. How do you calculate the setting for the MPPT regulator please?
I would like to see the same sort of video on the Victron MPPT regulator including everything in the "Expert Mode" like Rebulk offset mode etc.
Let us get something put together for ya!
This is an excellent walkthrough for lithium. I have 2 Costco (Interstate) 6v golf cart batteries wired in series to make 12v. I have looked online for the program values you show but I haven’t been successful. Can you help me find that resource? Also, for the charge voltage, I will have 3 different options. Generator, shore power, and vehicle alternator. How do I know what charge voltage each one is putting out? How critical is the .2 below that rate? What main screen value is using that information? Thank you
Great video partner, are these settings good for two 48 volt rack mount batteries? Thanks 👍
@danielg.1707 The voltages will be different as this was made with a 12v battery bank in mind but you should be able to just multiply all voltages in this video by (4) and be very close to what you need!
Bmv-712 , cost more, but awsome bluetooth range. Smartshunt is very short and gets easliy blocked.
@BeeBeorn That is true. The range issue for the smart shunt is primarily because the Bluetooth on the smart shunt is emitted from the shunt itself while the BMV-712 emits the Bluetooth signal from the screen.
Hi from the UK. Excellent explanation thank you. Just one thing, does the shunt get hot when in use?
@nickbengtsson6518 No it doesn't. It is made of a very thick conductor material that does not build heat. Thank you for the support!
Appreciate the advice, thanks so much. I’ve just installed the smart shunt. First step to switching to lithium. Some of us are still running 2 6v. Are the factory settings good for the 6v?
These voltages are described for Lithium batteries as most people use voltage numbers to estimate state of charge for lead batteries. A shunt is almost useless for lead acid batteries as their performance decays much faster than lithium and the state of charge will not be very accurate.
are you going to discuss whether you need internet connection for firmware update and what if you don't have internet connection at site.
Good question! To the best of my knowledge, the updates are downloaded and held in the app while you have service on your device. After that, the update can be performed anytime from that device whether you currently have service or not. So as long as the device with the victron app installed gets service periodically you should be able to update the devices without having service at the time of the update.
I have 2x 100amp/hr Dragonfly Lithiums batteries wired in PARALLEL. Should the negative battery to battery jumper be moved to the “system minus” lug of the shunt or stay on the battery negative terminal, along with the wire from the “Battery minus” lug on the shunt?
Thanks in advance!
@@kennedyhobson3384 battery terminal to battery terminal, then one supply wire from the negative to the battery side of the shunt. All negative lines now connect to the shunt on the system minus side.
I have no other negative connections. Nothing connected to the “system minus” except the “coach” negative lead. The battery negative post has both the jumper from the second battery and the shunt’s “battery minus” cable. This is how I installed, then wondered about it. Thanks for your very fast response! Much appreciated!
thanks
I'm confused, (not unusual). I just installed the IP 65 version in our RV.
I currently have 2 LiTime 100 amp lithiums hooked in parallel. The negative cable from each battery, 2 total, are hooked to the Batt side of shunt, the load side has a single cable to a buss bar where all the rest of the coach grounds are hooked. All settings on the app are mirroring yours in the video except I have the amperage set to 200.
Is this not a correct orientation?
Nice video!! If I have 3 12 volt batteries in series, what should charges voltage be then?
@hansmarius21 you should always consult the manufacturer of your batteries for the most accurate solution but generally speaking, Series configuration puts you at 36v roughly so just multiple these settings by 3.
So the chassis ground goes on the system minus side? Thank you for the video.
Correct, everything goes to the system minus side except the wire from the negative battery post.
Thanks again. I really appreciate the quick response.
You're welcome!
On your last screen shot for lithium you’ve left the discharge floor at 50% I’ve set mine to 10 %.
great info man! really good vid. QUESTION!! my victron 30/100 controller to 4 100ah batts in para. with 400watt array controller reads 14.41v and in float, smart shunt shows 13.32. what do you think is going on here? any help is welcomed. thanks again for vid.
Thanks for the feedback!
The controller voltage will reflect what it being put out for charging voltage, not necessarily the voltage of the batteries themselves. Once the controller goes into float the voltages will be very similar.
@@rvsolarconcepts well im not getting same voltage even when array is not feeding power, thats why I was asking. any suggestions at what I should look at? thanks.
@@ricardocuevas2245 Then you are getting a voltage drop somewhere between the positive battery terminal and the charge controller positive battery terminal. This could be several things, I would personally advise you to check for inadequate wire size, wire landed to a bus bar that has a load on it causing the voltage to dip, length of wire between the battery and the controller, etc...
This might be a stupid question… Im using the victron smart shunt to power a trolling motor. It’s just connected to my li time 100 ah battery. Would the setting still all be the same?
@@estevansanchez9639 yep, the principle is the same in both scenarios. 👍
Great video mate. I have one question. I’m installing one in a ford ranger tub. You say nothing else can go on the negative terminal other than the wire from shunt. So does that mean I even take the earth wire off of my battery? Therefore I should earth the shunt? Correct?
That is correct my friend! Move all grounds to the load side of the shunt otherwise power will be making it back to the battery without running through the shunt and therefore will not be calculated in the state of charge and will cause deviations and inaccuracies over time.
@@rvsolarconceptsthanks for the quick reply
@user-dz4dh8vm7k I wouldn't consider 2 months a quick reply hahaha. Must have missed the comment when it came across but hopefully it still helped ya.
It’s all good. I’ve installed the shunt and it’s been running well for the past 2 months. The video did help cheers mate. Think 1 small issue I’m having is it’s saying my fridge is only using 0.12ah which might be correct since it is winter here. And I could be reading it when the compressor is off.
@user-dz4dh8vm7k ok cool. I don't know anything about your particular system or setup but if you have solar charging, make sure all of the amperage numbers you gather are at night or with the solar turned off otherwise the solar production may be making up some or all of the load so the amount actually coming from the battery through the shunt will indicate a number that wouldn't otherwise make any sense.
Quick question I just changed all of my setting that you have for a 12V LifePO4 100Ah battery. I just fully charged up my battery to 100% with the setting on CLEAR. Would it automatedly read 100% SOC? Or is there another step I need to do for a accurate reading of the SOC of my battery?
Thanks!
Set the SOC calibration voltage to .2 LESS than the actual fully charged voltage so every time the shunt sees that voltage it automatically calibrates to 100%
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you, I'll give it a try!
Do you recommend putting the thin red wire on the positive battery post or the positive bus bar?
The only thing we keep in mind when doing our installs is we do not put that red power wire on anything that could be shut off with a disconnect. You want the shunt to have constant power at all times so it doesn't lose its calibration.
@@rvsolarconcepts thank you
Either spot will provide the range power so whatever is most convenient or looks best.
always on the positive post !
you want to measure actual battery voltage not the dropped voltage over your wiring under load. because that throws off the measurement.
I'm just thinking when I put my camper storage indoors for the winter
What victron shunt will work with a 560ah battery bank.( Lifepo4)
Will the same one work if i double the battery bank?
Not sure what I'm going with just yet.
That's a 12v system.
Battery bank size doesn't affect which shunt you need to use. You need to know the amperage that you plan on running through the DC system. The one in the video is the most commonly used and it is rated at 500 amps.
Justin which will be the right amount of time to leave the lithium battery in absorption time?
@EdwinTorres-vb5nc depends on what your charging it with. Victron MPPTs default to an adaptive absorption which works well but when I program one of their inverters I set the absorption values to their minimum times. I have another video showing how to program an Victron inverter that covers that somewhat. General rule of thumb is 20 minutes per battery.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thanks for your quick response very helpful and I’ve become a follower of your channel, keep it up.
I am looking for a shunt to use to measure battery capacity… but I think this setup looses all the data once the battery discharges. I was hoping the aux battery input would keep it awake, but it doesn’t seem to. Issue is SmartShunt resets and looses connection when the battery voltage drops too low. This makes it useless for me. In my opinion the power for the shunt electronics should come from the auxiliary battery… that would be much better.
This SmartShunt has no value to me without the ability to keep alive.
What am I missing?
It definitely is not the tool to use if you are looking for long term tracking. We have been frustrated with the same problems that you are describing but I don't believe Victron has any intentions of revamping the shunt to store the data unfortunately...
Yea, you are probably right. With the low cost of microprocessors you would think a Wifi version could exist with a web browser interface and on board storage… hey Toshiba had WiFi access built into to an SD flash card and that was many years ago. I guess I expect too much. It also disconnects every time you switch to another app and has to reconnect when you bring it back to the foreground on IOS. Unless I’m missing something, it’s a toy. I’m sending it back.
so my lifepo4 battery tail current in the manual says 4 amps - would i still use the 2% for tail current ?
for 2 100 AH battle born LiPO4 batteries, do I set the battery setting to 24 volts?
@@MeljunGomezMSNP-C Are the batteries in parallel or series?
@@rvsolarconcepts The airstream interstate 19 came with 2 100AH Battleborn Deep Cycle LiFEPO4 batteries wired in series (250 Watts Solar -- 150 watts goes to the house battery, and 100 watts goes to the chassis battery). I recently found out from online forums that owners are changing the wiring of these panels from "series" to "parallel'. What will the battery setting be for SERIES? and if ever I change to "PARALLEL', can you also let me know what the battery setting for that would be?
Also, for the battery preset, do I choose "Gel Victron deep discharge (1)" , Gel Victron deep discharge (2), or something else? Thank you for the prompt response.
@MeljunGomezMSNP-C We don't entertain very many installations on Airstream models so i don't have have a ton of experience with that platform specifically, but that sounds strange for the RV market...
If the batteries are in fact in series then your system is running on 24 volts not 12 and your settings would need to reflect that. If that is the case, you can't simply change the wiring to parallel otherwise you'll drop the overall voltage to 12 volts and then your 24v equipment won't operate.
If it's actually a 12v system then use the settings as described, if it's a 24v system multiple the settings in the video by 2 and that should be acceptable as well assuming you have lithium batteries.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you. That answered my questions. I will do more research about possibly rewiring but will leave everything as it is for the meantime. Thank you again for this very detailed post of yours.
@@MeljunGomezMSNP-C No problem at all! Thanks for your support!
I will have two 300 ah Lipo4 batteries wired in parallel. They will have the positive and negative wires from my solar controller going to them to charge them. You said I cannot have any connections to my negative terminal. That said where and how would I run my cables from my solar controller to my batteries? I always run these connections directly to the positive and negative post of my batteries.
Use a buss bar on the system minus side of the shunt?
Just treat the outgoing wire of the shunt cable just like a battery post.
@holylick5522 is exactly correct. When you have multiple connections it is best to use buss bars for all of the connections and then have one main wire from the buss bar to the shunt load side.
Question, if i have a bank of 4 12v in series 100ah each, how do i put it in there. 48 volt 400 ah or still 12 v. Then connect the red to the positive where?
If they are all in series then you'll have 48v 100AH. That's what you'll input in the app as well. The positive wire to the shunt can be landed on the positive battery terminal or bus bar.
Could you suggest settings for agm battery
You'll want to check with the manufacturer to get an answer on what voltages are necessary for the different stages of charging.
I have two Lipo batteries in the back of my van wired together, how do you install when there are two batteries?
No matter how many batteries you have, there should still only be 1 positive terminal and 1 negative terminal being used for power transfer functions. The shunt just needs to reside between the loads and the negative battery terminal no matter how many batteries you have.
Hope you can help. I can find and connect but when I click on the shunt it connects but its just product info, pin code, name, firmware, bootloader... If i hit the back arrow goes back to Device list, but the smart shunt is gone... Help
@@123mjolie were you able to get the shunt to show back up on the device list?
Hello all, hopefully can get some help I'm slightly struggling.
I have a DC House 51.2v battery which I have been using with a Victron MPPT 100/20 along with 2x 535w Panels.
It works perfecty 0 issues for the last 2 weeks but I decided I wanted to view the % of my battery so I purchased a Victron too, just struggling to workout when my battery is truly fully charged? I set it to the LifePO4 setting inside of victron but as soon as it goes out of float the voltage drops to 53.3v everyday?
Any help would be appriciated!
For a 48V nominal battery bank (56.8 full charge with lithium), all of your numbers will be 4X what is displayed in the video here. I would recommend following this video and setting it up in expert mode with your own voltages so you control all the aspects of its readings and don't leave any of it to generic settings from Victron.
As for the voltage drop this sounds completely normal to me. Once lithium is placed under a load and comes off of its fully charged voltage (14.2 in the video example or in your case 56.8V) it will drop significant to its "resting" fully charged voltage of 13.3V for 12V systems or 53.2V for 48V battery banks. This is the normal reaction to lithium being placed under a load after fully charging and isn't affecting your actual state of charge it is just dropping down into its useable voltage range. Just make sure you have your "charged Voltage" setting set around 56.4 to 56.8 and you'll be about as reliable as you can get it.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you for the quick reply! I managed to set it up waited for the battery to stop charging then set it to 100%. I noticed that I had 0% battery when I used 47AH out of 50AH. Does this mean I completely screwed up the calibration? :(
@@zGratchGaming How many amp hours is your battery?
@@rvsolarconcepts Damn! Quick reply again!
So my battery is DC House 51.2v 50AH.
Victron Absorption is set to 58.4v
Float is set to 54v
Shunt is set as per your video apart from charged voltage is 58.2v.
Thanks,
What about 24v?
Only differences with a 24v system will be the charging voltages which should be recommended by the battery manufacturer.
Why dont I see my charge energy I have 900W coming in but the shunts shows 0 percent no charge
I don't see power coming into the Shunt I am getting a PV reading of 26.5 so my batteries are charging but the shunt doesn't show anything no charge.
What device is showing you 900 watts coming in?
@@rvsolarconcepts My Victron 150/35 says 900w is coming in but on the shunt, I don't see the battery going up it's like it doesn't register, I did exactly what you said didn't connect the pv to the battery I did it to a bar only thing I connected to the batter negative is the shunt and the shunt is connected to the bar for the Pv. the positive is connected to the battery it is not on a bar, direct connection.
@@rvsolarconcepts I do see the dischared energy just not the charged energy. but I never synchronized it. the end part of the video.
Make sure you have the connections on the shunt in the correct orientation. The one going to your bus bar needs to be on the "system minus" side of the shunt and the one from your negative battery terminal needs to go on battery minus. Also make sure your batteries aren't fully charged already otherwise the solar power will be present but the batteries will have disconnected themselves from the charging circuit showing 0 amperage going in.
You need a light bulb good buddy.
@danielg.1707 We plan to remake this video now that we've made a space for filming hahaha. The rudimentary start...
Installing a smart shunt do need to have your battery at full charge
It doesn't need to be charged at initial install, but once you're up and running you will need to fully charge the battery in order for the shunt to calibrate.
Still waiting for someone to do this with 3 12v batteries to make 36v see how it works
What exactly are you wanting to see? The principal is the exact same, the only thing that changes is the voltage and amperage that you'll see going through it...
@@rvsolarconcepts just never seen anyone show what the settings would be in the app for anything other then 12v
@@stevenchase2066 Gotcha! Maybe we will revise the video and splice in settings for 24, 36, and 48. Thanks for the suggestion!