Use red loctite on the decompression arm bolt. I got away with blue for a while but the last install it backed out th-cam.com/video/pw0-05SwxHU/w-d-xo.html
This was awesome to watch, but seems intimidating. Excellent job showing what you did. I’ll use this trying to make my first attempt doing this to my sons 150R.
@@pondhopproductions8800 I did them with success first ones I’ve ever done took me 3 attempts to get the correct clearance but vastly improved the bike and starting overall, we had other carb issues going on that was being masked by the out of spec shims hot rods shims are the way to go, get a decent feeler gauge there’s a website to calculate the shims for you and it was pretty good only had to adjust 1 either way on 2 shims for it to be perfect our bike also had a issue with the earth wire too lol loads of pervious bodges really but once she was sorted out it was a cracking bike vids on my Chanel sadly never took any vids after the carb was changed the fuel screw was stripped right out and was backing out after a short time of running I know the 2012+ bikes are updated I did a 07 the cam shaft sprocket can spin on the shaft and this can throw the timing out always double triple check the timing ours came in 3 teeth out these have marks both sides of the crank cases so it isn’t too hard the engine has to be on the compression stroke, ps the decompression valve setup is weird but don’t over tighten the spring 2 /3 turns is enough it doesn’t need to be under lots of tension just needs to bounce back
@@Tizzy_p awesome thank you so much for the tips will definitely be using this video and some of yall suggestions. Quick question my 14 crf150r is leaking engine oil out of the air filter would improper valve clearance be a is sure or is it piston rings and top end?
Awesome video man, I should've done mine with the engine out, but I'd already spent everyday for a month rebuilding everything. Not too much harder to do in bike but still. As a recommendation for preventing stuff dropping, I used a rag to cover the chain cavity.
Thanks! I know the feeling of wanting to get it running and riding haha. Whenever the camera is off I tend to cover everything meticulously and yet when the camera is on shims, circlips, you name it just find their way into any crack and crevice lol
Put the long side of the spring against the cam and the short side hooked to the lever. Give it a wind once or twice before pushing the lever completely in.
when i wind the spring back on the cam and insert it. it snaps back which is great. but when i go to install the 8mm bolt with the arrow arm looking thing i tighten it to a point where it will still free the decompression weight to snap back. but when i start the bike it comes loose and rattles after 30seconds. but i don’t want to tighten it more because the lever won’t snap back. please help
Get the pointed end of the retainer lined up right in the center of the arm and use a good couple drops of locktite. I tightened it just to the point of it not returning and backed it off the slightest bit for it to return freely.
Use red loctite on the decompression arm bolt. I got away with blue for a while but the last install it backed out th-cam.com/video/pw0-05SwxHU/w-d-xo.html
That really sucks that happened
This was awesome to watch, but seems intimidating. Excellent job showing what you did. I’ll use this trying to make my first attempt doing this to my sons 150R.
Did you do them bro I gotta do my boys
I have to do the same thing to my 2014 crf150r how did it go if you did it any tips and tricks?
@@pondhopproductions8800 I did them with success first ones I’ve ever done took me 3 attempts to get the correct clearance but vastly improved the bike and starting overall, we had other carb issues going on that was being masked by the out of spec shims hot rods shims are the way to go, get a decent feeler gauge there’s a website to calculate the shims for you and it was pretty good only had to adjust 1 either way on 2 shims for it to be perfect our bike also had a issue with the earth wire too lol loads of pervious bodges really but once she was sorted out it was a cracking bike vids on my Chanel sadly never took any vids after the carb was changed the fuel screw was stripped right out and was backing out after a short time of running I know the 2012+ bikes are updated I did a 07 the cam shaft sprocket can spin on the shaft and this can throw the timing out always double triple check the timing ours came in 3 teeth out these have marks both sides of the crank cases so it isn’t too hard the engine has to be on the compression stroke, ps the decompression valve setup is weird but don’t over tighten the spring 2 /3 turns is enough it doesn’t need to be under lots of tension just needs to bounce back
@@Tizzy_p awesome thank you so much for the tips will definitely be using this video and some of yall suggestions. Quick question my 14 crf150r is leaking engine oil out of the air filter would improper valve clearance be a is sure or is it piston rings and top end?
Love the detailed video. Thanks for the effort in putting this together!
Hope it's useful! I kind of regret filming all the 150r videos at the same time. I feel like I get lost on more tangents haha.
You can use a piece of vacuum line that will fit snugly over the end of the sparkplug to screw it in to the hole.
Awesome video man, I should've done mine with the engine out, but I'd already spent everyday for a month rebuilding everything. Not too much harder to do in bike but still. As a recommendation for preventing stuff dropping, I used a rag to cover the chain cavity.
Thanks! I know the feeling of wanting to get it running and riding haha. Whenever the camera is off I tend to cover everything meticulously and yet when the camera is on shims, circlips, you name it just find their way into any crack and crevice lol
Cleanest 150r motor out there lol
How does the shim math work lol it’s kinda tricky
Can you tell me how exactly many times you spined the decommeser spring?
Where you get the engine mount from?
amzn.to/41RrLxH
how do you put on the spring and decompression lever. i want to know how to put it in and make the lever snap back. i can’t figure it out
16:20
Put the long side of the spring against the cam and the short side hooked to the lever. Give it a wind once or twice before pushing the lever completely in.
If u can tell me what size shim goes in the intake it’s 2.05 for exhaust but I ain’t to sure what’s the intake
The shim size is based on the clearance measurement. Too tight and you need a thinner shim, too loose and you need a thicker one.
when i wind the spring back on the cam and insert it. it snaps back which is great. but when i go to install the 8mm bolt with the arrow arm looking thing i tighten it to a point where it will still free the decompression weight to snap back. but when i start the bike it comes loose and rattles after 30seconds. but i don’t want to tighten it more because the lever won’t snap back. please help
Get the pointed end of the retainer lined up right in the center of the arm and use a good couple drops of locktite. I tightened it just to the point of it not returning and backed it off the slightest bit for it to return freely.
@@GarageAddictionThank you for this! How do you know if you want one or two turns and what difference does it make for the bike?
@@GarageAddiction will it back out with blue loctite If you just barley tighten it? It won’t spring back when you tighten the bolt
@@dominator2354Use red loctite, mine backed out and ate my valve cover. I actually just removed my arm entirely. Little harder to start.
@@GarageAddiction do you have to give it throttle to start it if you remove the arm ?
What kind of spark plug? Like model number
CR8EH-9 Sparkplug - amzn.to/3p0Ry94
What are the valve clearances in mm ?
.006 .010
and people wonder why no one wants to work on 150Rs
They're not thaaaaaat bad. Not quite as easy as a nice 2-stroke though :)
WHAT IS THIS? WHAT ARE YOU DOING?
Building bikes bro :)