I applaud your efforts to educate viewers on the pros and cons of different methods. My husband is an independent consultant (sells no products) who has worked (for over 44 years) with farmers who grow certified organic crops as well as farmers who use nonorganic methods when they work better. He has shown me evidence of organic products and methods that are more toxic to people than some of the inorganic alternatives. I know not everyone has 24/7 access to a consultant, but watching your videos is a great way to seek unbiased facts.
My plants were damaged by the soap too. Gardening is full of folklore and hearsay, so I appreciate when anyone tries to clean up the information that's out there.
I had an aphid infestation on my pepper seedlings inside this year. The type of aphid I had seemed to be concentrating on eating the new growth (most tender). I started by holding the seedlings upside down under running water in the kitchen sink to knock off as many aphids as possible. Then I would spray a tiny amount of neem oil (properly diluted) just in the center of the plant on that new growth. The neem coated the new baby leaves that were being eaten by the aphids. It took about 3-4 applications of neem over the course of a couple weeks, but all the aphids are gone.
As a graduated phytopathologist and professional gardener I remind that 99% of all 'pestizides' are synthesised by plants themselves. Personally I use industrial pesticides if necessary but it is rarely needed. Hi from Germany and have a great New Year!
Many thanks for sharing this info! I have been losing my battle with white flies and thought that I was the only one who had disappointing results with both soap and neem.
Yoooo Thank You Sir!! I have been fighting a nasty infestation of root aphid. I brought home the mothership from a local nursery. I have been fighting them relentlessly for 6 months. I have lost many of my prized cacti and tropicals. My main fear has been in regards to my rabbit. He is my world, and feared using a real pesticide, a systematic pesticide. This was the proper education i was desperately seeking!! Thank You!! Subscribed!! Iowa PS: Those fun facts about caffeine, etc blew me out of my chair! lol
Preparations of imidicloprid (Lesco Bandit, Control Solutions Dominion) in concentrate for dilution applications contain supporting chemicals to improve function, mobility, application and stability and operate much longer if kept slightly moist. The concentrations are 21.5% and the smaller volumes are fairly cheap. Of the two I always preferred Dominion for its shelf-stability after opening but the at-opening potency is the same from both. The advantage to using these preparation concentrates is you can also use them on the sides of raised beds, in walk ways, in the home and on animal bedding as well as tree bark and most other applications. They can be applied to plants with small sponge or regular paint brushes (sponge easier to clean and re-use). They can be applied to _banding_ wrapped around or placed through the plant and have a mild vapor effect. The current Bayer series of flea collars are almost entirely Imidacloprid in chemical activity and it makes up more than 60% of the collars by mass. As long as you avoid poisoning pollenators with the material it has zero long term impact on the environment when applied at the correct rates. I have had crawlspace/perimeter application rate mixture (4x stronger than lawn rate) blown from a broken lower seal on a backpack and been in more danger from suppressed panic than from the chemical mixture itself. (and had to drive home in rinsed underwear with my pants in a bucket) As minimum health affecting toxicity goes the Imidacloprid is safer than the cold pressed neem oil. Remember to store in a safe location well sealed, bagged for leaks and use gloves - the emulsifiers and adjunct ingredients when dried or crusty are actually more hazardous than the pesticide itself. Since 27oz of Dominion runs about $50 and will produce more than 500oz of 1% solution (absurdly strong and well above label) I would avoid RTU mixtures at any price point. Actual application rates are more like 0.72oz per 5 gallons and lower. Remember: Label is Law, obey it. FL JF209312
Thank you for bringing some common sense and thoughful discussion to the use of these chemicals. Even I find myself - almost - looking to spray whenever I see anything other than picture-perfect plants. Neem is about as aggressive as I'll get on a very limited application. Your comment about needing pests to attract beneficial predators really resonated for me - I never thought about it that way.
I worked in specialty horticulture for a decade. I was adamantly against “conventional” pesticides, but then I got a degree in biochemistry and now I understand the reality. Organic pesticides are almost useless against modern populations of aphids and mites. Not only do they fail to eliminate the pests, the large volume and repeated applications necessary to even make a dent in any populations also seriously damage plants and load consumables with high levels of the toxic aspects of the pesticides. It’s far more effective and logical to use tiny, fractional amounts of “real” chemicals that actually work and do less damage to a human body than breathing the air in a small city.
Thanks for the video. I have a beautiful, gorgeous perennial that was being devoured by spider mites. You could tell they were suffocating the plant. I sprayed some good Neem oil. It did nothing. I then, went ahead and sprayed some Talstar on them. Poof. Gone. All dead within minutes. Plant is thriving again and blooming. Normally, I would not spray that in the garden. But I wanted to save the plant ASAP. I didn’t have time to muck around. Besides, it’s not an edible plant. Problem solved.
Great video & advice. I wish more people would take the time to learn about some of the synthetic pesticides (& herbicides for that matter) like imidacloprid that could be of great benefit to their garden & landscape. I also understand it may not be realistic to ask most gardeners to research imidazolidines & monochloropyridine & look at the stoichiometry & koc/kd ration. All the chemistry & science is on the issue is sound & it is easy for one to use such products especially if using A premixed formula. In fairness, imidacloprid has been misused in agriculture in prior decades & has caused serious, long-term damage to waterways & ecosystems. One may think of aquatic life suffering due to contamination but so do birds & other animals dependent on said water. There are lots of organic products that can cause such or greater damage if misused on a massive scale also. I believe educating yourself on such a topic, its history, current & proper usage is best when & if possible. In this case there is so much misinformation, outliers, & unlikelihood's being highlighted by seemingly the loudest &/or most popular voices, often with agendas, it can be tough get through to people or convince otherwise. I believe it was Mark Twain who said, "It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they've been fooled". I'm glad you are no longer deterred from using this products & the results speak for themselves don't they!
Pyrethrins work well against aphids and a wide range of insects and is considered an organic pesticide. Though I rarely bother treating aphids outside and haven't ever had them inside. Neem or insecticidal soaps are not even available in my country. Suffocating insects with a fatless milk or
I was so excited to hear about this as I've been battling aphids and something that cuts my leaves in half for a couple months... I was very disappointed when reading about this product and found out you cannot use this product on plants that produce food, ie my room full if hot pepper plants... Back to the drawing board...
Bayer Bioadvanced Fruit, Citrus, & Vegetable insect control. The only downside to systemic pesticide like these is they usually have a pretty long "preharvest interval" or how long you have to wait to harvest after applying.
That is no longer true: "A new product called Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control is now available for the general public. It contains 0.235% imidacloprid. This product can only be applied to the soil." hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2012/3-21/imidacloprid.html
Thank you for this great information. I would like to use organic measures and have tried using soaps as well. Ladybugs and other natural predators are far and few in between here in Canada during Spring, while aphids are here by the millions. I grow a lot of petunias and calibrachoas and aphids seem to have a magnet for these, utterly destroying these plants, attacking especially the flowers and spreading like fire. It's impossible to kill them non-systemically even outdoors. What I've tried generally ruins the plant before it kills all the damn aphids. I've imidacloprid on the way, granular 1%. This year I'm not letting all my efforts go to waste growing these indoors since Winter only to have them destroyed by those parasites outside in the Spring.
Regarding toxicity I noticed the other day that Imidacloprid is an ingredient in the worm medicine the vet prescribes for my cat. Outdoors it saved most of my beautiful ash trees from the Emerald Ash Borer and there is recent science saying it doesn’t show up in Ash tree pollen which was of primary concern because ash pollen is important early food source for bees. For houseplants my grandmother after her bath would add a cap of malathion to the bath water and dunk the problematic plants in the water usually to 100% success.
Azadirachtin may have worked better as a soil drench. Although, I don't know about Canada but Azadirachtin is a restricted use pesticide so not available to home gardeners. It's been a while since I read about Azadirachtin but I thought it had a pretty good translaminar movement. Maybe leaf spraying would have worked better in this instance with the neem oil versus oily soil drench in potting media. Granted it may have finished killing off the stressed leaves lol. Neem MAX has been the only cold pressed neem oil I could find here. I contacted Bonide to ask if it actually contains azadirachtin and how much. According to them it does but it's just whatever's in it when it's processed. Imidacloprid kills fungus gnat larvae so there's a side bonus.
Is this soil drench neem ingredient safe for vegetable, human consumption? BTW, there is neem cake a byproduct of cold press neem oil. Maybe this product better than neem oil for soil drench.
I am learning so much from your informative videos THANK YOU. Im having a terrible time with spider mites, outdoors. I would really like to get them under control. They are sucking the life out of my outdoor plants & i fear i will bring them into my indoor plants. What would YOU suggest? Should i just leave them?
Imidacloprid is a neonicotinoid. It's not that toxic to mammals, but it'll harm bees. And since it's systemic, you can't spare the bees by spraying after sunset. I suppose you could use it on non-flowering plants.
Can't find your mealy bug video, I do interior plant maintenance and succulent and Cactus bonsai, struggle with mealy bugs and have tried all the common techniques and haven't found a resounding yes yet, tried a matter of in a powder form and I'm not sure how it's upten by the plant if the roots are not present next to where the amount of cooperative is applied nor if it liquefies from its granular form. I was persuaded to try Safari brand systemic pesticide a few years back on recommendations from the director of the University of Minnesota teaching greenhouses and found no effectiveness from that either, mainly for Millie bug and scale, had heard years ago that the Hawaiian USDA did a 120° water submersion technique for all vegetation/plants/ imports into the islands and called them years ago to confirm and they didn't know what I was talking about but it sounded promising, I've babbled a bit and hope you can link me to your mealybug video, appreciated and subscribed
This is the video I've been searching for. I've had a severe aphid problem on pepper plants since last fall when I tried to over winter them. I ended up putting them all outside to die. I've been searching on youtube and Google off and on all winter for information and not once has this video been suggested until today when I wasn't even actively looking for aphid control videos. I am even subscribed all and certainly don't remember this video being suggested 2 months ago. I have aphids again on my pepper seedlings and bought Monterey Drench but have been unsure how and why to use it. I just decided to use it 2 weeks ago. It does seem to work but I have to wonder how long the plants will have it in the system once they start growing. My aphids are only on the peppers. They leave the tomatoes and other plants alone. I think it may be too much nitrogen that is making the peppers unhappy or perhaps this particular aphid is one that only eats peppers? Thank you so much for this video.
Thank you for sharing - that's precious information! Could you please share as well the name/brand of the synthetic product you used (of course if it's not against any rule...) Joao (Lisbon)
Bonide, Monterey, Compare-N-Save, Bayer all make some. It's often labeled as a "tree and shrub". It'll depend on your country. Just search for imidacloprid. Edit: Bonide specifically has one labeled for houseplants called "Systemic Houseplant".
Imidacloprid and other nicotinoids are harmful to a lot of different insects and stay in the soil for longer periodes, so that's reason enough for me not to use it - especially when we have an insect/biodiversity collaps going on in the world. But thank you for the video!
I wonder if Merit 2F from Beyer would work. It looks to have high concentrate of Imidacloprid. It's a bit pricy but what's not these days. Also Generic Dominion 2L, Merit, Premise Max- Select 2F T/I seem to have high level of Imidacloprid. I really need to kill the aphids in my greenhouse.
Do you have a guide to diluting imidacloprid using off the shelf imidacloprid brands, and the concentrations to use for edible plants vs. non-edible ornamentals? Are there going to be issues with bees?
"A new product called Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control is now available for the general public. It contains 0.235% imidacloprid. This product can only be applied to the soil." - the product is now being used on food plants provided that the labeling allows it to be used this way. With cannabis there is an added question that needs to be answered. What happens when Imidacloprid is burned? The byproducts may not be safe. I don't know?
I know this video is specific to indoor use and I agree there’s not much of an argument to “organic” pesticides inside but to clarify for newer outdoor gardeners - generally people are concerned with toxicity as it relates to beneficial insects, not humans, outside. A low toxicity to people doesn’t mean it’s not harmful for an insect who’s weight barely registers on a scale. Neem and other “organic” sprays outside aren’t much safer or more effective either and if you can avoid spraying anything for a couple seasons, nature generally keeps a healthy balance. If you can tolerate a tiny bit of loss in the garden, the benefits are worth it in the long run. I’m not 💯 anti synthetics - some days I use a very targeted stream setting on a spray bottle and pick off grasshoppers and Japanese beetles when I can’t take em any longer 😅 there’s no great way to control either anyway so it’s mostly just venting frustration to make myself feel better. And makes me feel like I’m playing that water gun-horse racing carnival game. With a side of guilt, in the end.
I generally agree with you but there are times where the environment favors the pest and biological control just isn't going to keep up. There's also the issue of pests that are disease spreading. You don't want your garden to turn into the local mosaic virus distribution center for your neighborhood.
The statement "concerned with toxicity as it relates to beneficial insects, not humans, outside" is not correct. human toxicity is always a higher concern. Toxicity has nothing to do with the weight of the insect since the LD50 values are corrected for weight. Bees do seem to be more affected because of their internal biology - not their size.
I'm a bit confused. Are these treatments only for indoor plants or in greenhouses? I had a huge infestation of aphids last spring and summer on my property and on a "wild" bushy area behind my property along a bike bath. My issue with aphids was on young ornamentals like crabapple and cherry and on three grafted apple trees that were planted the year before. I was able to reach all the trees with heavy sprays of water except the cherry, which is about 10 feet tall now. Could not get the top. It was a constant battle and I am concerned about what will happen next year if I don't stay on top of it.
Horticultural oil (including neem), insecticidal soap, and imidacloprid isn't limited to greenhouses or houseplants. For the most part, you shouldn't need to deal with aphids on your outdoor ornamentals. If you can wait them out, maybe hose them off like you did, and let the natural predator population build up. You can also plant some flowers to encourage them to show up and stay because most also need nectar and pollen. Small flowers like again alyssum are good. That said, you can buy imidacloprid in the US. At the big box stores Bayer has one it's usually labeled as a tree and shrub soil drench. I think Bonide and maybe Fertilome have one as well. It might be worth reaching out to your extension agent if you are in the US and get their recommendation.
All three can be used outdoors as well, however, Azadirachtin is more toxic to pollinators outside. This problem is mostly eliminated by using soil drenches. Once in side a plant, anything that eats the plant will be affected.
We cant use it in the UK "While the European Union has banned the use of imidacloprid due to its acute toxicity to bees, it is still sold in the United States and is widely used in more than 100 other countries around the world."
Can Imidacloprid be used on an Asian pear tree? I've been battling aphids on this poor tree for two years and may actually have to replace it in the spring. I was using Neem Oil and a sticky barrier, both without much success.
Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Systemic Insect Drench Quart is labeled for fruit trees but you can only use it after petal fall or it will kill the bees. It is a once a year treatment.
You don't use the neem oil for soil drench, what you could have done is to take a tbsp of neem cake and leave it in a litre of water to be dissolved slowly in a day while shaking the bottle every few times. then dissolve this in another litre and drench the soil in two feedings or just till in a handful of the neem cake in the topsoil. Neem Oil should be used very cautiously as if you start applying it for foliar application very liberally then it will clearly burn the whole plant off. Indians been using Neem Twigs to brush their teeth and clean the GI tract. but we do it very cautiously like 2 or 3 times a week only or it will kill off all the good bacteria too. India resisted a vested US attempt to patent Neem and Turmeric and won. Ancient Indians never found the need to patent things in a ridiculous manner like unscrupulous Edison . Neem is ANTI - Bacterial Fungal Viral Parasitic Inflammatory Pyretic Need I say more? Let me expound- It combats acne, rash allergy, ringworms, lice, dandruff, hairfall, rheumatoid arthritis, gout, constipation, worms , malaria, sinus, cough, STD, ulcers, pox scarring, foot fungi, It drives away insects, mosquitoes and snakes. It does NOT harm birds. All Vedic sages brushed their teeth with neem twig. Its bitter taste formats the taste of the tongue. Like in perfume shops you must format your olfactory senses with coffee bean smell, before you smell another perfume. It is used in food godowns in India as it drives away unwanted pests and termites. Powdered bark and root is applied on pets to drive away fleas. In my lawn I use neem seed cakes to lower Nitrogen losses, and also to prevent fungus. In Puri temples dieties are carved out of aged neem wood.. When I sit on my lawn in the evenings , I get rid of mosquitoes by sprinkling neem water-fooling the smell senses of the mosquitoes.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 it may be a common practice among the western folks but here in India we know that the cake is very much more effective than oil take it from us, your soil will be euphoric.
Hit the gear ⚙️ in the upper right corner and switch the playback speed to 1.25x. It makes him sound like a regular person instead of his usual slow-as-mollasses speaking cadence.
you dont need to use any pesticides at all to garden; make use of natural predators and take care of the soil; wasting time and resources fighting pests means you spend more then you earn in the end
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I applaud your efforts to educate viewers on the pros and cons of different methods. My husband is an independent consultant (sells no products) who has worked (for over 44 years) with farmers who grow certified organic crops as well as farmers who use nonorganic methods when they work better. He has shown me evidence of organic products and methods that are more toxic to people than some of the inorganic alternatives. I know not everyone has 24/7 access to a consultant, but watching your videos is a great way to seek unbiased facts.
Thank you.
Thanks for sharing im seeking a long time for kind of topic...watching from philippines.
My plants were damaged by the soap too. Gardening is full of folklore and hearsay, so I appreciate when anyone tries to clean up the information that's out there.
I had an aphid infestation on my pepper seedlings inside this year. The type of aphid I had seemed to be concentrating on eating the new growth (most tender). I started by holding the seedlings upside down under running water in the kitchen sink to knock off as many aphids as possible. Then I would spray a tiny amount of neem oil (properly diluted) just in the center of the plant on that new growth. The neem coated the new baby leaves that were being eaten by the aphids. It took about 3-4 applications of neem over the course of a couple weeks, but all the aphids are gone.
Once again, great video. I love these deep dives; you don't learn this stuff on the other gardening channels. Thanks!
As a graduated phytopathologist and professional gardener I remind that 99% of all 'pestizides' are synthesised by plants themselves. Personally I use industrial pesticides if necessary but it is rarely needed. Hi from Germany and have a great New Year!
sure, give me a link where I can buy them.
Many thanks for sharing this info! I have been losing my battle with white flies and thought that I was the only one who had disappointing results with both soap and neem.
Yoooo Thank You Sir!!
I have been fighting a nasty infestation of root aphid. I brought home the mothership from a local nursery.
I have been fighting them relentlessly for 6 months. I have lost many of my prized cacti and tropicals.
My main fear has been in regards to my rabbit. He is my world, and feared using a real pesticide, a systematic pesticide.
This was the proper education i was desperately seeking!!
Thank You!!
Subscribed!!
Iowa
PS:
Those fun facts about caffeine, etc blew me out of my chair! lol
Preparations of imidicloprid (Lesco Bandit, Control Solutions Dominion) in concentrate for dilution applications contain supporting chemicals to improve function, mobility, application and stability and operate much longer if kept slightly moist. The concentrations are 21.5% and the smaller volumes are fairly cheap. Of the two I always preferred Dominion for its shelf-stability after opening but the at-opening potency is the same from both. The advantage to using these preparation concentrates is you can also use them on the sides of raised beds, in walk ways, in the home and on animal bedding as well as tree bark and most other applications. They can be applied to plants with small sponge or regular paint brushes (sponge easier to clean and re-use). They can be applied to _banding_ wrapped around or placed through the plant and have a mild vapor effect. The current Bayer series of flea collars are almost entirely Imidacloprid in chemical activity and it makes up more than 60% of the collars by mass. As long as you avoid poisoning pollenators with the material it has zero long term impact on the environment when applied at the correct rates. I have had crawlspace/perimeter application rate mixture (4x stronger than lawn rate) blown from a broken lower seal on a backpack and been in more danger from suppressed panic than from the chemical mixture itself. (and had to drive home in rinsed underwear with my pants in a bucket)
As minimum health affecting toxicity goes the Imidacloprid is safer than the cold pressed neem oil. Remember to store in a safe location well sealed, bagged for leaks and use gloves - the emulsifiers and adjunct ingredients when dried or crusty are actually more hazardous than the pesticide itself.
Since 27oz of Dominion runs about $50 and will produce more than 500oz of 1% solution (absurdly strong and well above label) I would avoid RTU mixtures at any price point. Actual application rates are more like 0.72oz per 5 gallons and lower. Remember: Label is Law, obey it. FL JF209312
Thank you for bringing some common sense and thoughful discussion to the use of these chemicals. Even I find myself - almost - looking to spray whenever I see anything other than picture-perfect plants. Neem is about as aggressive as I'll get on a very limited application. Your comment about needing pests to attract beneficial predators really resonated for me - I never thought about it that way.
I worked in specialty horticulture for a decade. I was adamantly against “conventional” pesticides, but then I got a degree in biochemistry and now I understand the reality. Organic pesticides are almost useless against modern populations of aphids and mites. Not only do they fail to eliminate the pests, the large volume and repeated applications necessary to even make a dent in any populations also seriously damage plants and load consumables with high levels of the toxic aspects of the pesticides. It’s far more effective and logical to use tiny, fractional amounts of “real” chemicals that actually work and do less damage to a human body than breathing the air in a small city.
'organic' pesticides are on the same level as 'healing crystals'.
Thanks for the video.
I have a beautiful, gorgeous perennial that was being devoured by spider mites. You could tell they were suffocating the plant. I sprayed some good Neem oil. It did nothing. I then, went ahead and sprayed some Talstar on them. Poof. Gone. All dead within minutes. Plant is thriving again and blooming. Normally, I would not spray that in the garden. But I wanted to save the plant ASAP. I didn’t have time to muck around. Besides, it’s not an edible plant. Problem solved.
Great video & advice. I wish more people would take the time to learn about some of the synthetic pesticides (& herbicides for that matter) like imidacloprid that could be of great benefit to their garden & landscape. I also understand it may not be realistic to ask most gardeners to research imidazolidines & monochloropyridine & look at the stoichiometry & koc/kd ration. All the chemistry & science is on the issue is sound & it is easy for one to use such products especially if using A premixed formula. In fairness, imidacloprid has been misused in agriculture in prior decades & has caused serious, long-term damage to waterways & ecosystems. One may think of aquatic life suffering due to contamination but so do birds & other animals dependent on said water. There are lots of organic products that can cause such or greater damage if misused on a massive scale also. I believe educating yourself on such a topic, its history, current & proper usage is best when & if possible. In this case there is so much misinformation, outliers, & unlikelihood's being highlighted by seemingly the loudest &/or most popular voices, often with agendas, it can be tough get through to people or convince otherwise. I believe it was Mark Twain who said, "It's easier to fool people than it is to convince them they've been fooled". I'm glad you are no longer deterred from using this products & the results speak for themselves don't they!
Pyrethrins work well against aphids and a wide range of insects and is considered an organic pesticide. Though I rarely bother treating aphids outside and haven't ever had them inside. Neem or insecticidal soaps are not even available in my country. Suffocating insects with a fatless milk or
I was so excited to hear about this as I've been battling aphids and something that cuts my leaves in half for a couple months... I was very disappointed when reading about this product and found out you cannot use this product on plants that produce food, ie my room full if hot pepper plants... Back to the drawing board...
Bayer Bioadvanced Fruit, Citrus, & Vegetable insect control. The only downside to systemic pesticide like these is they usually have a pretty long "preharvest interval" or how long you have to wait to harvest after applying.
That is no longer true:
"A new product called Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control is now available for the general public. It contains 0.235% imidacloprid. This product can only be applied to the soil."
hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2012/3-21/imidacloprid.html
Thank you for this great information. I would like to use organic measures and have tried using soaps as well. Ladybugs and other natural predators are far and few in between here in Canada during Spring, while aphids are here by the millions. I grow a lot of petunias and calibrachoas and aphids seem to have a magnet for these, utterly destroying these plants, attacking especially the flowers and spreading like fire. It's impossible to kill them non-systemically even outdoors. What I've tried generally ruins the plant before it kills all the damn aphids. I've imidacloprid on the way, granular 1%. This year I'm not letting all my efforts go to waste growing these indoors since Winter only to have them destroyed by those parasites outside in the Spring.
Regarding toxicity I noticed the other day that Imidacloprid is an ingredient in the worm medicine the vet prescribes for my cat. Outdoors it saved most of my beautiful ash trees from the Emerald Ash Borer and there is recent science saying it doesn’t show up in Ash tree pollen which was of primary concern because ash pollen is important early food source for bees.
For houseplants my grandmother after her bath would add a cap of malathion to the bath water and dunk the problematic plants in the water usually to 100% success.
You are my number one gardening mentor I love your video's
and i was wondering where can we get the chemical in Canada
you can't get systemics in Canada.
Azadirachtin may have worked better as a soil drench. Although, I don't know about Canada but Azadirachtin is a restricted use pesticide so not available to home gardeners.
It's been a while since I read about Azadirachtin but I thought it had a pretty good translaminar movement. Maybe leaf spraying would have worked better in this instance with the neem oil versus oily soil drench in potting media. Granted it may have finished killing off the stressed leaves lol.
Neem MAX has been the only cold pressed neem oil I could find here. I contacted Bonide to ask if it actually contains azadirachtin and how much. According to them it does but it's just whatever's in it when it's processed.
Imidacloprid kills fungus gnat larvae so there's a side bonus.
numerous refers say that absorption through leaves is poor. Neem with high Azadirachtin level is available in Canada through Amazon.
Is this soil drench neem ingredient safe for vegetable, human consumption? BTW, there is neem cake a byproduct of cold press neem oil. Maybe this product better than neem oil for soil drench.
I am learning so much from your informative videos THANK YOU. Im having a terrible time with spider mites, outdoors. I would really like to get them under control. They are sucking the life out of my outdoor plants & i fear i will bring them into my indoor plants. What would YOU suggest? Should i just leave them?
what %imidacloprid is right for house (balcony) pot gardening. Thank you for your most valuable videos.
👍👍👍 Wishing you a happy healthy and prosperous New Year to you and your family.
Id love to hear your opinion on beauveria bassiana and metarhizium anisopliae uses or correct uses.
Thank you.
Imidacloprid is a neonicotinoid. It's not that toxic to mammals, but it'll harm bees. And since it's systemic, you can't spare the bees by spraying after sunset.
I suppose you could use it on non-flowering plants.
Can I made Bakain Leaf (melia Azadirach)
China berry leaves boiling or crushed them and mix water for spray
Can't find your mealy bug video, I do interior plant maintenance and succulent and Cactus bonsai, struggle with mealy bugs and have tried all the common techniques and haven't found a resounding yes yet, tried a matter of in a powder form and I'm not sure how it's upten by the plant if the roots are not present next to where the amount of cooperative is applied nor if it liquefies from its granular form. I was persuaded to try Safari brand systemic pesticide a few years back on recommendations from the director of the University of Minnesota teaching greenhouses and found no effectiveness from that either, mainly for Millie bug and scale, had heard years ago that the Hawaiian USDA did a 120° water submersion technique for all vegetation/plants/ imports into the islands and called them years ago to confirm and they didn't know what I was talking about but it sounded promising, I've babbled a bit and hope you can link me to your mealybug video, appreciated and subscribed
Cut worm,Army worms,Australian flat worm,what soil drench would you recommend.Thank you
This is the video I've been searching for. I've had a severe aphid problem on pepper plants since last fall when I tried to over winter them. I ended up putting them all outside to die. I've been searching on youtube and Google off and on all winter for information and not once has this video been suggested until today when I wasn't even actively looking for aphid control videos. I am even subscribed all and certainly don't remember this video being suggested 2 months ago.
I have aphids again on my pepper seedlings and bought Monterey Drench but have been unsure how and why to use it. I just decided to use it 2 weeks ago. It does seem to work but I have to wonder how long the plants will have it in the system once they start growing. My aphids are only on the peppers. They leave the tomatoes and other plants alone. I think it may be too much nitrogen that is making the peppers unhappy or perhaps this particular aphid is one that only eats peppers? Thank you so much for this video.
What was the insecticide you used that worked? Will the insecticide be in the pollen and eventually hurt the bees?
What about using beneficial bugs like lacewings and lady bugs?
5:28 onwards....so so true. i hv experienced it too
Can you provide some brands that make Imidaclopride? Can I also find them at my local.home depot, Menards, Homedepot , Amazone etc???? Thank you
Thank you for sharing - that's precious information! Could you please share as well the name/brand of the synthetic product you used (of course if it's not against any rule...)
Joao (Lisbon)
Bonide, Monterey, Compare-N-Save, Bayer all make some. It's often labeled as a "tree and shrub". It'll depend on your country. Just search for imidacloprid.
Edit: Bonide specifically has one labeled for houseplants called "Systemic Houseplant".
@@shawnsg Neonicotinoids have been severely restricted in pesticides in the EU since 2013, you won't find them in products sold to ordinary consumers.
@@juusoblomqvist363 I thought maybe they had but didn't know for sure.
@@shawnsgIn 2018 also a ban for outside use of imidacloprid, which France has tried to circumvent for certain restrictive use.
I used BioAdvanced tree and shrub, but the brand should not matter.
Imidacloprid and other nicotinoids are harmful to a lot of different insects and stay in the soil for longer periodes, so that's reason enough for me not to use it - especially when we have an insect/biodiversity collaps going on in the world. But thank you for the video!
I wonder if Merit 2F from Beyer would work. It looks to have high concentrate of Imidacloprid. It's a bit pricy but what's not these days.
Also Generic Dominion 2L, Merit, Premise Max- Select 2F T/I seem to have high level of Imidacloprid.
I really need to kill the aphids in my greenhouse.
We need people to talk about why the plant has aphids. Usually because of 😩 stress.
Does imidacloprid kill spider mites?
What is the name of the insecticide you used?
When you were talking about LD5) values, you didnt add context, as LD50 of 200 what? Milligrams, grams?
It's usually milligrams per kilogram of weight.
Interesting video as always. Where can one buy imidacloprid in Canada, in sizes less than one gallon?
I don't think you can.
Do you have a guide to diluting imidacloprid using off the shelf imidacloprid brands, and the concentrations to use for edible plants vs. non-edible ornamentals? Are there going to be issues with bees?
Would you recommend using Imidacloprid on cannabis for bhang aphids during the cannabis flowering stage when the flowers will eventually be consumed?
"A new product called Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control is now available for the general public. It contains 0.235% imidacloprid. This product can only be applied to the soil." - the product is now being used on food plants provided that the labeling allows it to be used this way.
With cannabis there is an added question that needs to be answered. What happens when Imidacloprid is burned? The byproducts may not be safe. I don't know?
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Thank you. I do see a recall in California due to imidacloprid being detected.
I know this video is specific to indoor use and I agree there’s not much of an argument to “organic” pesticides inside but to clarify for newer outdoor gardeners - generally people are concerned with toxicity as it relates to beneficial insects, not humans, outside. A low toxicity to people doesn’t mean it’s not harmful for an insect who’s weight barely registers on a scale. Neem and other “organic” sprays outside aren’t much safer or more effective either and if you can avoid spraying anything for a couple seasons, nature generally keeps a healthy balance. If you can tolerate a tiny bit of loss in the garden, the benefits are worth it in the long run. I’m not 💯 anti synthetics - some days I use a very targeted stream setting on a spray bottle and pick off grasshoppers and Japanese beetles when I can’t take em any longer 😅 there’s no great way to control either anyway so it’s mostly just venting frustration to make myself feel better. And makes me feel like I’m playing that water gun-horse racing carnival game. With a side of guilt, in the end.
I generally agree with you but there are times where the environment favors the pest and biological control just isn't going to keep up. There's also the issue of pests that are disease spreading. You don't want your garden to turn into the local mosaic virus distribution center for your neighborhood.
The statement "concerned with toxicity as it relates to beneficial insects, not humans, outside" is not correct. human toxicity is always a higher concern.
Toxicity has nothing to do with the weight of the insect since the LD50 values are corrected for weight. Bees do seem to be more affected because of their internal biology - not their size.
I'm a bit confused. Are these treatments only for indoor plants or in greenhouses? I had a huge infestation of aphids last spring and summer on my property and on a "wild" bushy area behind my property along a bike bath. My issue with aphids was on young ornamentals like crabapple and cherry and on three grafted apple trees that were planted the year before. I was able to reach all the trees with heavy sprays of water except the cherry, which is about 10 feet tall now. Could not get the top. It was a constant battle and I am concerned about what will happen next year if I don't stay on top of it.
Horticultural oil (including neem), insecticidal soap, and imidacloprid isn't limited to greenhouses or houseplants.
For the most part, you shouldn't need to deal with aphids on your outdoor ornamentals. If you can wait them out, maybe hose them off like you did, and let the natural predator population build up. You can also plant some flowers to encourage them to show up and stay because most also need nectar and pollen. Small flowers like again alyssum are good.
That said, you can buy imidacloprid in the US. At the big box stores Bayer has one it's usually labeled as a tree and shrub soil drench. I think Bonide and maybe Fertilome have one as well.
It might be worth reaching out to your extension agent if you are in the US and get their recommendation.
All three can be used outdoors as well, however, Azadirachtin is more toxic to pollinators outside. This problem is mostly eliminated by using soil drenches. Once in side a plant, anything that eats the plant will be affected.
Funnily enough, the only insect population in out house are lady bugs. Every spring there are a hundred of them inside 😂
Most people have Aphid problems because they are over fertilizing...Use a low nitrogen organic fert and your Aphid problem will greatly reduce...
Where do you get that aphid pestiside?
In the US - just about anywhere - Home Depot Amazon.
amzn.to/3VUOHce
@@Gardenfundamentals1 does this product hurt the beneficial insects?
@@Gardenfundamentals1 and are vegetables ok to eat afterward?
We cant use it in the UK "While the European Union has banned the use of imidacloprid due to its acute toxicity to bees, it is still sold in the United States and is widely used in more than 100 other countries around the world."
Can Imidacloprid be used on an Asian pear tree? I've been battling aphids on this poor tree for two years and may actually have to replace it in the spring. I was using Neem Oil and a sticky barrier, both without much success.
Probably, but you should always follow label instructions for any plant.
Ferti-lome Tree and Shrub Systemic Insect Drench Quart is labeled for fruit trees but you can only use it after petal fall or it will kill the bees. It is a once a year treatment.
You don't use the neem oil for soil drench, what you could have done is to take a tbsp of neem cake and leave it in a litre of water to be dissolved slowly in a day while shaking the bottle every few times. then dissolve this in another litre and drench the soil in two feedings or just till in a handful of the neem cake in the topsoil. Neem Oil should be used very cautiously as if you start applying it for foliar application very liberally then it will clearly burn the whole plant off. Indians been using Neem Twigs to brush their teeth and clean the GI tract. but we do it very cautiously like 2 or 3 times a week only or it will kill off all the good bacteria too.
India resisted a vested US attempt to patent Neem and Turmeric and won. Ancient Indians never found the need to patent things in a ridiculous manner like unscrupulous Edison .
Neem is ANTI -
Bacterial
Fungal
Viral
Parasitic
Inflammatory
Pyretic
Need I say more?
Let me expound-
It combats acne, rash allergy, ringworms, lice, dandruff, hairfall, rheumatoid arthritis, gout, constipation, worms , malaria, sinus, cough, STD, ulcers, pox scarring, foot fungi,
It drives away insects, mosquitoes and snakes. It does NOT harm birds.
All Vedic sages brushed their teeth with neem twig. Its bitter taste formats the taste of the tongue. Like in perfume shops you must format your olfactory senses with coffee bean smell, before you smell another perfume.
It is used in food godowns in India as it drives away unwanted pests and termites. Powdered bark and root is applied on pets to drive away fleas.
In my lawn I use neem seed cakes to lower Nitrogen losses, and also to prevent fungus.
In Puri temples dieties are carved out of aged neem wood..
When I sit on my lawn in the evenings , I get rid of mosquitoes by sprinkling neem water-fooling the smell senses of the mosquitoes.
neem oil as a soil drench is a common practice and the only way you really get it systemic.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 it may be a common practice among the western folks but here in India we know that the cake is very much more effective than oil take it from us, your soil will be euphoric.
@@Gardenfundamentals1 Such a know-it-all response.
Aphids are born pregnant?!!
Hit the gear ⚙️ in the upper right corner and switch the playback speed to 1.25x. It makes him sound like a regular person instead of his usual slow-as-mollasses speaking cadence.
you dont need to use any pesticides at all to garden; make use of natural predators and take care of the soil; wasting time and resources fighting pests means you spend more then you earn in the end
Natural predators don't work too well in the house!