Just the video I needed! I tried using expansion bolts to fit a bracket to my brick wall, but it started to crack my pointing! As the holes were slightly out of alignment with the holes in the brackets, as I tightened the bolts, there was no give and the pointing cracked. Hopefully, with thinner bolts and resin, I should be ok!
+Curiosity The curing time depends on the brand of resin that you are using and the ambient temperature. We often use these on site, you can often insert them into the concrete, go back half an hour later and then tighten the nut down. Thanks for the comment
I`ve never used that type of resin before but have used the type in a glass tube which you place in the hole and break with the stud. Used to cut the stud at an angle of 45 deg and screw it in using a battery drill. All of these chemical anchors are solid with no stress on the surrounding material. Great vids fella.
Thanks for this. Just about to install a chin up bar. Tried wall fixings but they don't take to my interior walls. Someone suggested resin bolt kits which will do the job hopefully!
On a standard right hand thread you should twist the stud in anti clockwise as this pulls the resin downward into the hole. Twisting clockwise will screw the resin out of the hole.
Some masonry is too soft for expansion bolts, and they crack the masonry. Old Sandstone for example will just crumble. So the expansion bolts will never get a fix.
What I don't understand is how you ensure the stud ends up in the centre of the hole if you're drilling the hole ~2mm larger than the stud itself (to allow for the resin). I want to use this technique to mount brackets for a desk so it's vital that the studs are right in the centre of their holes otherwise the brackets won't fit onto them, and/or the tops of the brackets won't be level.
You might be able to get some sleeves made, to centre the studs perfectly. For example of you are using a M12 stud, you could get a sleeve that is M14 OD and M12 ID and slide that down the stud after injecting the resin and inserting the stud. It would only need to be 10mm or so deep, or perhaps use two per stud- one at the very end and one where the stud exits the brick.
When you say "straight through the brick work"... are you going right through into the cavity or do you stop about 10mm so shy so the resin can't pour through?
Would this hold alot of weight? I need to build a pergola on my terrace. I want to screw the studs onto the walls which are made from concrete blocks, these studs will basically hold the whole pergola together. Would it hold the weight? Thanks alot mate.
Hi, I'm wondering about fixing a metal balcony using these. Should I use a rubber gasket behind my washer to take up some expansion - black metal balcony on sunny south facing wall? Thanks mate, I enjoy your videos!
I'm not sure about that one, I'd ask a structural engineer to be on the safe side. The last thing you want is someone falling to their death 😱 Thanks for the comment 👍
Can you use screws in resin. I'm trying to fit a countertop shelf for the basin in the bathroom and the last screw just keeps spinning. Space is tight and the only thing I can think of is a chemical fixing? Thanks
+Rashid Hussain No, I don't think screws will work in resin. You could inject resin and then use a stud of the correct diameter, then tighten a nut and washer onto that once the resin has cured.
Hi want to put a punchbag bracket on the same sort of house bricks outside . Should I have use same procedures ? Please advice Thank you in advance : )
+Joynal Motin Yes, but I'd ensure that any studs that you use are rust-proof. It's also best if you can get several studs into several different bricks to distribute the load, but obviously this depends on the bracket.
Good video, I'm rather surprised that you didn't put your timber onto the protruding studs before the resin dried, that way you would be sure to have perfect alignment when it was dry.
When using resin fixings, you’ll probably get the strongest fixing in the centre of the brick, but it depends on the brick, as some are hollow- so you might end up using a lot of resin 👍
I'd probably put two every 600mm or so. It's a few years since I last installed one- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/decking/fixing-a-ledger Thanks for the comment 👍
what do you suggest to mount a 64lb cabinet to a cinderblock wall? I plan to add about 45lbs of items inside the cabinet. I've been going crazy tying to figure out the best way to do it. Thanks for any help you can add.
I'm not familiar with cinder blocks I am afraid, but after doing a google search they appear to be concrete blocks. Four resin fixings and M12 (1/2 inch) studs should do the trick, providing the blocks are solid. If the blocks are hollow you could use 4 snap toggles- th-cam.com/video/tAIUublenMw/w-d-xo.html I hope this helps ;-)
I'm in the States and totally confused. You suggested using a 110V drill (or RDC) when working outside. Seeing as how the U.K. is 240V, where would you find a 110V outlet?
As Gee Whiz RS has pointed out, in the UK it is common to use a transformer to go from standard 230V to 110V You will often see these transformers on most construction sites (which is why cordless tools are a much better option) Thanks for the comment
Is the resin really that strong that it can stop the studding from turning once you start to tighten the nut? Any idea how much torque can be applied? Could the stud ever turn if enough torque was applied?
Yes, once the resin has cured it holds it really well. I'm not sure how much torque could be applied without breaking the bond though. Thanks for the comment
IV used a 600+nm nut gun on them and they've not moved, resin fixings are used to hold up very heavy channels etc for balcony's and other steel work so they can take plenty of load too
What do you suggest for fixing into block work, it's a supporting wall but think it is the thermalight block. Iv got masonary bolts ut not sure which hold the best
I have very soft internal walls and any convential fixings just pull out, since it's impossible to keep the hole to size. I have been using resin for years Thanks for the video but I was a little concerned how close to the mortar joint the holes were.
have you had any issues using resins on soft walls? Been looking for a solution to hang a radiator.. all the wall fixings just pull out been really frustrating.
I'm looking to put a 500mm threaded bar into resined hole. Will the standard resin nozzle/silicone gun push the resin all the way back to the 500mm cavity? Or do I need to get a special extended nozzle? Thanks!
Hello and thanks for sharing. One question: what if the studs need to be removed for any reason? Is it possible to "unscrew" them using a particular procedure or the only way is to cut the protruding part and leave the remaining part inside the wall? Thanks!
I've never tried removing them, but would imagine the only way to remove them would be to cut them flush to the surface using an angle grinder etc. Thanks for the comment
How do you clear the nozzle tube after you used it? Ive just used a small amount of it,and now the nozzles gone solid,rendering it unusable again. I see you can buy spare nozzles though.
animal79thecat You are welcome ;-) I'm great thanks, but busy subcontracting on site for the next few weeks. After that I should get some more videos made. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great idea - horribly expensive way compared to conventional fixings, and you can't store the resin for long periods, which has always put me off. That stuffs about £20 worth on the consumer market isn't it?
Just the video I needed! I tried using expansion bolts to fit a bracket to my brick wall, but it started to crack my pointing! As the holes were slightly out of alignment with the holes in the brackets, as I tightened the bolts, there was no give and the pointing cracked. Hopefully, with thinner bolts and resin, I should be ok!
The resin is amazing stuff. A few years later I went to remove the studs in this video, they were absolutely solid 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks fella for the video, another technique I have never used or seen being done.
Thanks for sharing this.
Neil.
Looks really good, it really sets up that quickly... It must as you have promoted it. I will see if I can find it here... Thank You...
+Curiosity
The curing time depends on the brand of resin that you are using and the ambient temperature. We often use these on site, you can often insert them into the concrete, go back half an hour later and then tighten the nut down.
Thanks for the comment
many thanks for this it saves me a fortune and time using this method
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I`ve never used that type of resin before but have used the type in a glass tube which you place in the hole and break with the stud. Used to cut the stud at an angle of 45 deg and screw it in using a battery drill. All of these chemical anchors are solid with no stress on the surrounding material. Great vids fella.
Thanks for this. Just about to install a chin up bar. Tried wall fixings but they don't take to my interior walls. Someone suggested resin bolt kits which will do the job hopefully!
Resin fixings should do the trick 👍
Wonderful workmanship; delightful to watch!
On a standard right hand thread you should twist the stud in anti clockwise as this pulls the resin downward into the hole. Twisting clockwise will screw the resin out of the hole.
Ued this technique today..first time user. It did pull it in..
Thanks ,informative and straightforward without any fuss 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
ABSOLUTE GENT, THANKS FOR GETTING BACK TO ME , YOUR AN ASSET :)
Nice to see the vids coming thick and fast.
Could you have also used expansion bolts in this application?
Some masonry is too soft for expansion bolts, and they crack the masonry. Old Sandstone for example will just crumble. So the expansion bolts will never get a fix.
What I don't understand is how you ensure the stud ends up in the centre of the hole if you're drilling the hole ~2mm larger than the stud itself (to allow for the resin). I want to use this technique to mount brackets for a desk so it's vital that the studs are right in the centre of their holes otherwise the brackets won't fit onto them, and/or the tops of the brackets won't be level.
You might be able to get some sleeves made, to centre the studs perfectly. For example of you are using a M12 stud, you could get a sleeve that is M14 OD and M12 ID and slide that down the stud after injecting the resin and inserting the stud. It would only need to be 10mm or so deep, or perhaps use two per stud- one at the very end and one where the stud exits the brick.
Just slap a Washer ,then nut and tighten then enjoy your life
Great video. Will use the same technique for mounting a ledger board.
Best of luck with it 👍
When you say "straight through the brick work"... are you going right through into the cavity or do you stop about 10mm so shy so the resin can't pour through?
Yeah if it's a cavity wall, it's best to not go all the way through the first course of bricks 👍
This was a single skin brick wall.
👍
@@ultimatehandyman thank you very much.
Would this hold alot of weight? I need to build a pergola on my terrace. I want to screw the studs onto the walls which are made from concrete blocks, these studs will basically hold the whole pergola together. Would it hold the weight? Thanks alot mate.
I'm afraid I don't know the answer, you would have to ask the manufacturers or a structural engineer.
Thanks for the comment
For a super tight fit that will sustain weight use sleeve anchors of the right length into properly drilled holes as an alternative.
Hi, I'm wondering about fixing a metal balcony using these. Should I use a rubber gasket behind my washer to take up some expansion - black metal balcony on sunny south facing wall? Thanks mate, I enjoy your videos!
I'm not sure about that one, I'd ask a structural engineer to be on the safe side. The last thing you want is someone falling to their death 😱
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can you use screws in resin. I'm trying to fit a countertop shelf for the basin in the bathroom and the last screw just keeps spinning. Space is tight and the only thing I can think of is a chemical fixing? Thanks
+Rashid Hussain
No, I don't think screws will work in resin.
You could inject resin and then use a stud of the correct diameter, then tighten a nut and washer onto that once the resin has cured.
Could you use this technique to put up a punchbag bracket? Informative video
Hi want to put a punchbag bracket on the same sort of house bricks outside . Should I have use same procedures ? Please advice
Thank you in advance : )
+Joynal Motin Yes, but I'd ensure that any studs that you use are rust-proof. It's also best if you can get several studs into several different bricks to distribute the load, but obviously this depends on the bracket.
Very nice! You make it look so easy!
could you tell me what type of resin you use for the brick?
Good video, I'm rather surprised that you didn't put your timber onto the protruding studs before the resin dried, that way you would be sure to have perfect alignment when it was dry.
Thanks, I did not want the weight of the post pulling the studs downwards, or out!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Good Job!
Which is the best place to drill in a brick wall for fixings. Is it right in the middle of the brick or in the pointed area(cement)
When using resin fixings, you’ll probably get the strongest fixing in the centre of the brick, but it depends on the brick, as some are hollow- so you might end up using a lot of resin 👍
Once again awesome. Learning all the time :)
great video...planning to use this.method to fit 20ft ledger board on my house for a deck...what distance do you suggest I leave between fixings?
I'd probably put two every 600mm or so.
It's a few years since I last installed one- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/decking/fixing-a-ledger
Thanks for the comment 👍
what do you suggest to mount a 64lb cabinet to a cinderblock wall? I plan to add about 45lbs of items inside the cabinet.
I've been going crazy tying to figure out the best way to do it.
Thanks for any help you can add.
I'm not familiar with cinder blocks I am afraid, but after doing a google search they appear to be concrete blocks.
Four resin fixings and M12 (1/2 inch) studs should do the trick, providing the blocks are solid.
If the blocks are hollow you could use 4 snap toggles- th-cam.com/video/tAIUublenMw/w-d-xo.html
I hope this helps ;-)
Thank you for the information and video on the snap toggles.
Your videos are great!
Jim M
You are welcome Jim, Thanks for the comments ;-)
Good video. Very informational too.
Thanks for posting the video. It was really useful!
Andy
You are welcome Andy
Thanks for the comment
Can there be used to go into plasterboard and then into brick to hold a TV on the wall?
Yes, or you could use Rigifix or Corefix-
Rigifix- th-cam.com/video/xaYfs3lr1jI/w-d-xo.html&t
Corefix- th-cam.com/video/7xLhIPoO5gQ/w-d-xo.html&t
Great video. Thanks for info.
Glad it was helpful!
I'm in the States and totally confused. You suggested using a 110V drill (or RDC) when working outside. Seeing as how the U.K. is 240V, where would you find a 110V outlet?
We use a transformer to step down to 110v for site work.
As Gee Whiz RS has pointed out, in the UK it is common to use a transformer to go from standard 230V to 110V
You will often see these transformers on most construction sites (which is why cordless tools are a much better option)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you for the replies. I never knew about using 120V on construction sites.
HandyMan! Can you do a video (when you can) on how to prepare a wall for wallpapering and how to wallpaper tips and tricks plz. Cheers
Is the resin really that strong that it can stop the studding from turning once you start to tighten the nut? Any idea how much torque can be applied? Could the stud ever turn if enough torque was applied?
Yes, once the resin has cured it holds it really well. I'm not sure how much torque could be applied without breaking the bond though.
Thanks for the comment
IV used a 600+nm nut gun on them and they've not moved, resin fixings are used to hold up very heavy channels etc for balcony's and other steel work so they can take plenty of load too
What do you suggest for fixing into block work, it's a supporting wall but think it is the thermalight block. Iv got masonary bolts ut not sure which hold the best
I normally use Dewalt Gasbeton on aerated concrete - th-cam.com/video/YwAMQcbJS0U/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the comment
Great stuff mate, thank you👍👍👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
nice one as always uth, can i ask where do u buy your fixings from, im finding the local providers quite expensive.
I have very soft internal walls and any convential fixings just pull out, since it's impossible to keep the hole to size. I have been using resin for years
Thanks for the video but I was a little concerned how close to the mortar joint the holes were.
Thanks, the resin should still fix to the mortar as well as the brick itself.
Thanks for the comment
have you had any issues using resins on soft walls? Been looking for a solution to hang a radiator.. all the wall fixings just pull out been really frustrating.
Best to avoid drilling a hole in the mortar between bricks - makes it much weaker if you don't.
Nah, he meant don't. If you don't avoid drilling the mortar, it'll be much weaker.
Do? Don't? Don't avoid? Lol
Great video
Thanks for the visit
How deep was your cavity that tube didn't look long enough I would have pushed a rod in first to measure depth I think
It was deep enough to accept the stud ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm looking to put a 500mm threaded bar into resined hole. Will the standard resin nozzle/silicone gun push the resin all the way back to the 500mm cavity? Or do I need to get a special extended nozzle? Thanks!
@@colmflaherty8087 I think you will have to extend the nozzle for that depth, perhaps using a piece of plastic pipe etc.
Thanks. Makes sense.
Maybe a silly question but has anyone ever used anchor resin as a grab adhesive. Would it work ?
I've not tried it, not sure how good the grab will be- but once it hardens you will get a solid bond for certain
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hello and thanks for sharing. One question: what if the studs need to be removed for any reason? Is it possible to "unscrew" them using a particular procedure or the only way is to cut the protruding part and leave the remaining part inside the wall? Thanks!
I've never tried removing them, but would imagine the only way to remove them would be to cut them flush to the surface using an angle grinder etc.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for your reply! ;-)
You can tighten 2 nuts onto the stud then apply turning force to break the bond, can also modify a small scissor jack to help after doing this.
It mixes perfect from the get go - it’s designed to
what make is your sds drill? cheers
How many holes did the tube do mate?
You are brilliant-
Hardly, I'm just a guy that does a lot of D.I.Y 😉
Thanks for the comment 👍
Screwfix has different types of easyfix resins; polyester, styrene-free, & vinylester. Any idea how they differ & perform?
Sorry, I don't know the difference between the different types of resin but it should say on their site?
Handy tips.
👍
where do you get mason mate from
I think I bought it from James Gibsons ironmongers in town, but you should be able to get it online
Thanks for the comment 👍
looking at the brick pattern you would think thats a cavity wall, wouldnt you?
I'm not an expert on brick patterns, but this is a single skin brick wall- with a couple of pillars along the long walls 👍
@@ultimatehandyman ah ok I was wondering why the drill bit went so far in and didnt find the cavity
Someone’s got a load of resin on there garage floor and 3 studs sticking out lol
LOL
Bolton or Darwen????
+negara54
Darwen ;-)
great vid.
How do you clear the nozzle tube after you used it?
Ive just used a small amount of it,and now the nozzles gone solid,rendering it unusable again.
I see you can buy spare nozzles though.
Unfortunately the nozzles can only be used once as the resin mixes in the nozzle, which means you have to buy some spare nozzles.
Thankyou for taking the time to reply.
I thought so...better get some spares in.
Enjoying the new videos,
Hope you are well.
animal79thecat
You are welcome ;-)
I'm great thanks, but busy subcontracting on site for the next few weeks. After that I should get some more videos made.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
You are welcome also..you are definetely one of lifes "Good guys!"
animal79thecat true true. always helpful.
good as always :)
VERY USEFUL
nice video :)
The yandles, and into de yole hilarious sorry mate...
😂
Great idea - horribly expensive way compared to conventional fixings, and you can't store the resin for long periods, which has always put me off.
That stuffs about £20 worth on the consumer market isn't it?
Mavie aufgepasst kaufen siegen unterdachung
Cool :P
1 - No home DIY has 100v equipment.
an RCD would suffice
2 - you didn't hold the drill straight, ie its drilling downwards!
Good luck with alignment!
Than
Into de yole ha ha...
😂
All wrong here :)
🤔