Your videos are really interesting, detailed and concise at the same time: I like your style! Personally I would like a video explaining the balance and trimming of the models. There is not a lot of information on the net and I think this topic could give your channel a higher gear! And it could, for beginners, dissolve the halo of magic that surrounds these indispensable operations. Thank you!
Would like to see more about how you cover top and bottom surfaces. Specifically, how you join the top and bottom cover at the leading/trailing edge and wing tips. How do you cover say a D shaped vertical stabilizer.
If its small enough you can shrink it by sticking it in the oven door with the oven on about 200' F ....dont put it in the oven just let it get hot then open the door and hold your covered surface in the heat...my gun broke halfway through and i was desperate lol...but it worked!
The correct sequence for covering is 1/Cover bottom surface of wing first and seal edges leave covering unshrunk 2/ Cover upper surface folding neatly around trailing and leading edge,next shrink covering equally top and bottom to avoid warping wing,you should never shrink up one surface only as this will induce warping. A cheaper alternative film and a replacement for Solarfilm which is no longer made is made by Easycoat sold by the Balsa cabin.
If you have a plane that can take a little more weight, like the sharkface, Oratex is the best option because it is easy to work with and feels more like fabric. It would be cool if you could stock oratex in the other colors or lozengtex is 1-2m rolls for the smaller planes that don't need 5m rolls for tge WWI german cammo schemes🙂
Of all the building videos, not one until now ever mentioned adhesive on the back side of the covering. I guess they assume youd know. Thanks for pointing that out.
Hello, I do ruber powered models Guillows style, I would like to know which heat shinking covering I should use on this small models, I have no experience with anything other than paper and dope which if fine exept here where I live it rains 300 days a year so my model has to stand wet grass... Any advice will be gratly appreciated. Cheers from Normandy.
What is with the edges, does the oracover overlap and gets folded under? what is with elevator and rudder pannels, especially the hinges? What is with the fuselage, or the nose of a plane, sor example a sailplane? That would be a video what deserves the title how to cover!
On every wing that I have covered I have used a single sheet wrapped around the leading edge and joining at the trailing edge. This is generally not recommended but I prefer to do it that way and have ever had any problems. Do you have any thoughts on this?
I prefer using MonoKote . I also dont stretch it . But I pull the wrinkles out as I tack the covering down . There are some hard places like the arounded corner at the leading edge and on compound curves . Those areas takes a lot of time and preplaining ahead of time to get it right . This guy leaves to many wrinkles for me .
2-part question: 1) do you iron the spurs as well and the middle of the wing or only iron the edges? 2) this is my first time with solarfilm and I have quite a few wrinkles. Is this okay or do I need to redo it to try to get it straight?
Wear a mask when sanding and ideally do it outside - because balsa dust is really nasty to inhale and can lead to lung infections and problems. I’ve now got a proper film iron and gun but when I started out on a budget I used an ordinary clothes iron and a hairdryer - bit bulky, not as convenient, but worked fine. All the models that I built in the 90s using SolarFilm were covered that way. Off course back then covering a model plane was as cheap as chips, these days you need to take out a second-mortgage to buy film - in fact the film (especially if using OraCover) could cost more than the proper film gun and iron. Not just the cost of film, but balsa is incredibly expensive these days. Building from kits used to be the cheaper option, building from plans was even cheaper. Now I shudder at the prices. It really is killing off traditionally build models and reinforcing the dominance of foam. Not sure whether this is urban myth, but I heard that one of the primary reasons that balsa prices have shot up is that balsa is used in the core of wind turbine blades and that is creating a huge demand for balsa which is driving up the price.
Don't use a hair dryer, your wife will kick your a**...Just kidding. It's not hot enough and your left with wrinkles, then you grab your heat gun anyway or you might not have a heat gun. Now your plane looks like your shirts if your single and don't know how to wash your clothes. And you have to buy or borrow one. Just buy a heat gun.
![[LIVE] BABYMONSTER(베이비몬스터) - DRIP | 두시탈출 컬투쇼](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UG05pxLGwzc/mqdefault.jpg)
Let us know what tutorial videos you would want watch next! ☺️ Thanks for watching our content.
What is the risk of distortion/twisting of the structure ?
Your videos are really interesting, detailed and concise at the same time: I like your style!
Personally I would like a video explaining the balance and trimming of the models. There is not a lot of information on the net and I think this topic could give your channel a higher gear! And it could, for beginners, dissolve the halo of magic that surrounds these indispensable operations. Thank you!
how to set the main wing and stab angles correctly
Would like to see more about how you cover top and bottom surfaces. Specifically, how you join the top and bottom cover at the leading/trailing edge and wing tips. How do you cover say a D shaped vertical stabilizer.
Love the presentation, the visuals, and the general tone of the video. Works perfectly, nice and short with nothing to waste time.
Been postponing my Balsa model because i've been unsure how to cover it.
Thanks for this!
I thought the voice and editing style seemed familiar! ProjectAir! Great content, keep it up.
If its small enough you can shrink it by sticking it in the oven door with the oven on about 200' F ....dont put it in the oven just let it get hot then open the door and hold your covered surface in the heat...my gun broke halfway through and i was desperate lol...but it worked!
Thank you for keeping this alive and that is one sweet cub!
Thank you! I've always been curious.
Do you recommend wrapping the whole wing in one go? Or doing it tin smaller sections?
Would have like to see you do the bottom too. Treatment and placement of the exposed covering edge specifically.
The correct sequence for covering is 1/Cover bottom surface of wing first and seal edges leave covering unshrunk 2/ Cover upper surface folding neatly around trailing and leading edge,next shrink covering equally top and bottom to avoid warping wing,you should never shrink up one surface only as this will induce warping.
A cheaper alternative film and a replacement for Solarfilm which is no longer made is made by Easycoat sold by the Balsa cabin.
The bottom is where he should have started.
If you have a plane that can take a little more weight, like the sharkface, Oratex is the best option because it is easy to work with and feels more like fabric. It would be cool if you could stock oratex in the other colors or lozengtex is 1-2m rolls for the smaller planes that don't need 5m rolls for tge WWI german cammo schemes🙂
That's cool been wondering about this
Straightforward simple,thanks
Of all the building videos, not one until now ever mentioned adhesive on the back side of the covering. I guess they assume youd know. Thanks for pointing that out.
BRavo...brawooo!!!
Aún recuerdo cuando se entelaba los aeromodelos con barniz tensor Novavia y papel de seda. Un saludo.
Hello, I do ruber powered models Guillows style, I would like to know which heat shinking covering I should use on this small models, I have no experience with anything other than paper and dope which if fine exept here where I live it rains 300 days a year so my model has to stand wet grass... Any advice will be gratly appreciated. Cheers from Normandy.
Nice Cub, do you have a model with flap STOL type?
thanks
Oracover is EXTREMELY expensive for certain countries with weak currencies. Could you recommend a replacement?
What is with the edges, does the oracover overlap and gets folded under? what is with elevator and rudder pannels, especially the hinges? What is with the fuselage, or the nose of a plane, sor example a sailplane? That would be a video what deserves the title how to cover!
Is that project air I hear?
On every wing that I have covered I have used a single sheet wrapped around the leading edge and joining at the trailing edge. This is generally not recommended but I prefer to do it that way and have ever had any problems. Do you have any thoughts on this?
I prefer using MonoKote . I also dont stretch it . But I pull the wrinkles out as I tack the covering down . There are some hard places like the arounded corner at the leading edge and on compound curves . Those areas takes a lot of time and preplaining ahead of time to get it right . This guy leaves to many wrinkles for me .
2-part question:
1) do you iron the spurs as well and the middle of the wing or only iron the edges?
2) this is my first time with solarfilm and I have quite a few wrinkles. Is this okay or do I need to redo it to try to get it straight?
Does anyone know if that stuff can be painted?
Does it works on plastic airfoil rib
From where to get that heat blow gun u used
show us how to do wing edges.
Thanks
What's the name of the airplane you're covering in this video? I'd be inerested in ordering it.
It's a Piper Cub.
Useful
Awesome, dude! Thanks! 😃
Bottom should be covered first, you should not start shrinking until all of wing is covered because you could warp the structure
Horrible video, did everything wrong
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What about the underside of the wing? How do you address the seam between the upper and lower covering sheets?
Your video is woefully incomplete.
Wear a mask when sanding and ideally do it outside - because balsa dust is really nasty to inhale and can lead to lung infections and problems.
I’ve now got a proper film iron and gun but when I started out on a budget I used an ordinary clothes iron and a hairdryer - bit bulky, not as convenient, but worked fine. All the models that I built in the 90s using SolarFilm were covered that way. Off course back then covering a model plane was as cheap as chips, these days you need to take out a second-mortgage to buy film - in fact the film (especially if using OraCover) could cost more than the proper film gun and iron.
Not just the cost of film, but balsa is incredibly expensive these days. Building from kits used to be the cheaper option, building from plans was even cheaper. Now I shudder at the prices. It really is killing off traditionally build models and reinforcing the dominance of foam.
Not sure whether this is urban myth, but I heard that one of the primary reasons that balsa prices have shot up is that balsa is used in the core of wind turbine blades and that is creating a huge demand for balsa which is driving up the price.
Yeah, obviously. Lol. Am wondering about trimming the extra and overlapping the other side? ...the only part you didn't explain. Lol
I've done this but mine are a bit messier than this.
Two thing's, 1 that cover job looks like a first time fourth graders attempt 2, a hair dryer will not work for covering it's not hot enough!
I spy ailerons!!!!
You do!
@@vintagemodelco7936 coming soon I hope?
you forgot to explain dealing with the extra hanging off the edge?
Cut it to the right size bro
You should stretch the material as you tack it. Makes for a better job.
Here's the expert technique : th-cam.com/video/XtMbYxEqgiw/w-d-xo.html
Don't use a hair dryer, your wife will kick your a**...Just kidding. It's not hot enough and your left with wrinkles, then you grab your heat gun anyway or you might not have a heat gun. Now your plane looks like your shirts if your single and don't know how to wash your clothes. And you have to buy or borrow one. Just buy a heat gun.
👎👎Barely touches the highlights of covering…sparse to the point of…well…pointless.