It's hard to find meaningful gifts for parents, and your Mom looked very pleased with the puzzle/photo of her grands. I did something similar with a couple of jigsaw puzzles, but just used kraft paper and white glue as the backing and had a professional framer glaze, matt and frame them. After ten years they are still hanging on my walls and giving enjoyment.
As someone who did custom framing for several years, you've done amazing work here (no surprises there, really). However, you really want to avoid having the artwork touching the glass, at least if your goal for framing it is conservation at all. Not a big deal, really, you just need to go get a mat cut for it. Probably 2 layers, since you'll be using the foamcore backing as the mounting surface, instead of the backside of the mat, which is the more "standard" way of doing it. The two layers will give you enough space so that the front of the topmost mat is what's touching the glass, while the puzzle will be able to sit just clear of the glass. Also, while brad nails are fine, you'll start to learn of one of their shortcomings after matting the puzzle, since those holes you so carefully drilled will no longer be in the right place! The brad nails may be bendable enough for this to be a non-issue, but we typically used a point driver with framing points, as they're much more flexible, don't work harden/fatigue for many bend cycles, and can be driven in to the wooden frames with relative ease. If you're gonna get into framing a lot of artwork, I would recommend getting yourself at least this tool. Mat cutting can be left to the pros at your local framing shop, as the tools and infrastructure required to maintain a pristine mat with those gorgeous openings in them is extensive, more than is likely worth investing in for a home-gamer, even one as advanced as yourself. If you're really looking to use this framing as a conservation method, let me know, I can point you in the right direction for other steps that can be taken to make sure that puzzle stays in its current state for years and years and years to come. If not, I'm certain what you've done here already will be fine, but do please consider re-mounting that with matting to get the artwork off of the glass. The number of times I've seen the artwork stick to the glass after just a few months... It's not pretty!
Great video. Love cmt. And taytools! Great job Frank. I never thought about using a flush trim bit. Much better than the way I do it with a saw and sand paper.
Little Trick for the finish nails (or any nail): If you don't have the right size Drill bit, chop the head of one nail, put it in a drill and use it as your drill bit. Makes a perfect size hole for the nails as a pilot hole.
Came out really nice Frank. A tip I've seen before for the picture frame sled, is to use an aluminum framing square. That way you don't have to worry about making it 90 degrees.
Typically the artwork should be spaced away from the glass, but as long as it's not in direct sunlight, it should be fine in my experience. I worked in a frame shop for a few years and had thousands of old frames come in, and I only remember maybe two or three pieces come in that were stuck to old glass, so it's a pretty rare occurrence.
The problem with putting the piece touching the glass is moisture tends to get between them and cause the printed part to stick to the glass and can damage the piece. You possibly could have created a spacer that would run along the sides of the inside of the glass to do a sort of a shadow box like gap between. This is a very pretty project! :D
Very nice, as usual. As far as the puzzle directly touching the glass, the ink may stick to the glass over time. That can be avoided by using mat board and creating a frame within a frame and creating a void between the glass and surface of the art.
Wait, did you cut down a tree so you could use it to break some glass? 😜😃 Ok, I know that's not quite how it happened but you seriously over thought the glass cutting part. After scoring it, you could just slide it over to the edge of your table and push down gently and it would've snapped right off. That's basically what the weight of the boards and clamps did. I love your projects and videos!
Hey! I'm from Johnson City, Tennessee. My Brother in law is opening a General Store very soon in Johnson City and may be interested in buying some of your rulers! I don't know if the plant is still open, but the new version doesn't say the name of the town. Anyways - Let me know if you are interested in selling some to him. That was cool to see our little town pop up on your video! Thanks for the great content!
They use to make a glue like stuff especially for puzzles, you can just brush it on the Front and the back because it dries clear. I don’t know if they still make it or not. Don’t know why they wouldn’t.
You don't have to be so precious when cutting glass. Once it's been scored, a little squeeze with breaker pliers or swift smack on the braced offcut is all you need.
For anyone hanging with wire. The stuff you want is called aircraft cable and as a bonus, there are cinching connectors which allow you some height adjustment so you too can easily get a frame to the correct height 😉
Was once helping a friend hang a big frame and went to tie a knot in the cable. "You don't tie knots in the cable" he told me. Not even 10 minutes later the frame had fallen off the wall XD
Because the air in Side the case will be slightly insulated from the out side and puzzle pieces are made from paper and it holds moisture from the air. With the pieces touching the glass there is a possibility of condensation buildup on the glass that could cause mould. So just check it out every 6months just in case
If the photo is stored in a conditioned space that doesn't have daily or seasonal temperature swings, it should be ok... I agree that a matte would be better though.
yea spray glue on only one side will work just fine, it just goes from "you aint getting this apart without destroying it" to "you can get it apart if your really careful and determined"
you should have your mom sign it somewhere around the perimeter! or have the grandchildren sign then back of the puzzle. or not. families should do whatever they want.
I apologize if my comment is a repeat, but you really should have your shaper set up with the fences as close as possible to the cutter. Essentially, what you should aim for is a fence as close as possible to zero clearance at the deepest cut. For safety!
I dont like using glass for the puzzles I use puzzle glue the front it gives a shiny look and doesnt have a glare like glass, its little hard to clean :)
As someone who has done professional framing: it's not okay to have the work against the glass. Add a spacer to stop it touching. For flat work (which I suppose this isn't exactly) you get moisture on the glass and work often sticks to it, or at least leaves marks. You always want an air gap between the work and the glazing.
The confusing part for me is that you 'un-did' it being a puzzle. Wouldn't it have been better to simply sandwich it between a stiff and a clear sheet? (Like a sheet of aluminum or 3mm ply and a sheet of polycarb or acrylic)
Great video! My only complain would be that you didn't wore gloves while cutting the glas and didn't show wet sanding the edges. That can be really dangerous!
Why can’t you just cut 45 degree cuts in your wood frame and make em fit right? I don’t get it. Can you give us a demonstration as to why this method doesn’t work right. Keep making the vids, I love em 😁😁👍👍
You can. But they've got to be a perfect 45°. If you're off by half a degree it compounds around the whole frame and you're left adjusting the mitres until they're perfect. With Frank's sled, it's ok if it's off a little. As long as the sled corner is perfectly 90° the frame will have perfectly matching mitred corners. Others i have seen making this sled will use an aluminium framing square and only cut the 45° corner when it's securely and permanently attached to the sled as this guarantees you a 90° corner.
Wow, I"m sorry you had to do that plug. it just...sounded so robotic, and soul sucking, like they weren't your words, but you just had to recite them from an index card." I don't blame you, I know you're an introvert like I am.
For those who saw this video earlier today, I had to re-upload it to make a correction. It's virtually the same video.
what was the problem?
what changed?
Haha I know the feeling, but your comment just intrigues everyone, what did you change.
I believe when I watched it earlier, the shot with the router bits was cut in at the wrong point in the video, but I might be misremembering.
You're a national treasure, Frank. Thanks for the videos.
Multi-colored splines... brilliant! What a cool touch. Thanks Frank.
17:52 That was the best part!! beautiful! thanks for sharing!
It's hard to find meaningful gifts for parents, and your Mom looked very pleased with the puzzle/photo of her grands.
I did something similar with a couple of jigsaw puzzles, but just used kraft paper and white glue as the backing and had a professional framer glaze, matt and frame them. After ten years they are still hanging on my walls and giving enjoyment.
As someone who did custom framing for several years, you've done amazing work here (no surprises there, really).
However, you really want to avoid having the artwork touching the glass, at least if your goal for framing it is conservation at all. Not a big deal, really, you just need to go get a mat cut for it. Probably 2 layers, since you'll be using the foamcore backing as the mounting surface, instead of the backside of the mat, which is the more "standard" way of doing it. The two layers will give you enough space so that the front of the topmost mat is what's touching the glass, while the puzzle will be able to sit just clear of the glass.
Also, while brad nails are fine, you'll start to learn of one of their shortcomings after matting the puzzle, since those holes you so carefully drilled will no longer be in the right place! The brad nails may be bendable enough for this to be a non-issue, but we typically used a point driver with framing points, as they're much more flexible, don't work harden/fatigue for many bend cycles, and can be driven in to the wooden frames with relative ease. If you're gonna get into framing a lot of artwork, I would recommend getting yourself at least this tool. Mat cutting can be left to the pros at your local framing shop, as the tools and infrastructure required to maintain a pristine mat with those gorgeous openings in them is extensive, more than is likely worth investing in for a home-gamer, even one as advanced as yourself.
If you're really looking to use this framing as a conservation method, let me know, I can point you in the right direction for other steps that can be taken to make sure that puzzle stays in its current state for years and years and years to come. If not, I'm certain what you've done here already will be fine, but do please consider re-mounting that with matting to get the artwork off of the glass. The number of times I've seen the artwork stick to the glass after just a few months... It's not pretty!
haha, love the foamcore from old architectural plan presentation boards
You're a good boy Frank - Gotta keep Momma happy! !! !!!
I agree...Mt St. Helens needs a frame. Enjoy your videos.
Good video for mothers day
"I walked away and the project finished itself." It never fails Frank, your shop is always full of wonder and magic :-)
The one time it wasn't a camera trick 😄
"and the project finished itself" I wish a few of my projects would do that. LOL.
Happy Mother's Day Frank's Mom!
What a great moms day project
Happy Mother's Day Mamma Howarth!
Happy Mother's Day !
Great Mom you have! (no surprise there :-) )
A quick tip if you cant find a small drill bit. Just cut off the head of the nail and use it to drill pilot holes for the rest. Works just fine.
Rulers from Johnson City, TN! Good to my town represented!
We use mod podge to glue puzzles. It takes abit longer than spray mount but it seals the cardboard on all sides keeping the pieces dry and rigid.
Thanks for the tip.
Комментарий в поддержку ролика и канала, а также труда мастера.
Great video. Love cmt. And taytools! Great job Frank.
I never thought about using a flush trim bit. Much better than the way I do it with a saw and sand paper.
Little Trick for the finish nails (or any nail):
If you don't have the right size Drill bit, chop the head of one nail, put it in a drill and use it as your drill bit. Makes a perfect size hole for the nails as a pilot hole.
Beautiful job - the purple splines are a wonderful stylistic touch! You did good for your Mom!👏🏻👏🏻
Great work and an excellent gift (second time through).
Bill
Came out really nice Frank. A tip I've seen before for the picture frame sled, is to use an aluminum framing square. That way you don't have to worry about making it 90 degrees.
I use a biscuit jointer to cut my spline slots. Works a treat.
HAHA using your old presentation boards, love it.
Whoa those hands at 9:40
Beautiful job!!
Typically the artwork should be spaced away from the glass, but as long as it's not in direct sunlight, it should be fine in my experience. I worked in a frame shop for a few years and had thousands of old frames come in, and I only remember maybe two or three pieces come in that were stuck to old glass, so it's a pretty rare occurrence.
The problem with putting the piece touching the glass is moisture tends to get between them and cause the printed part to stick to the glass and can damage the piece. You possibly could have created a spacer that would run along the sides of the inside of the glass to do a sort of a shadow box like gap between. This is a very pretty project! :D
Always great to hear and see you 👍
Nice job on the picture frame Frank! or should i say puzzle frame :) Thanks for sharing the video with us!👍💖😎JP
Very nice, as usual. As far as the puzzle directly touching the glass, the ink may stick to the glass over time. That can be avoided by using mat board and creating a frame within a frame and creating a void between the glass and surface of the art.
Thanks frank
I laughed way too hard at the breaking glass bit. Thank you Frank, keep 'm coming!
Very nice video and excellent build.
Always love a Frank video!
Wait, did you cut down a tree so you could use it to break some glass? 😜😃
Ok, I know that's not quite how it happened but you seriously over thought the glass cutting part. After scoring it, you could just slide it over to the edge of your table and push down gently and it would've snapped right off. That's basically what the weight of the boards and clamps did.
I love your projects and videos!
Hey! I'm from Johnson City, Tennessee. My Brother in law is opening a General Store very soon in Johnson City and may be interested in buying some of your rulers! I don't know if the plant is still open, but the new version doesn't say the name of the town. Anyways - Let me know if you are interested in selling some to him. That was cool to see our little town pop up on your video! Thanks for the great content!
amazing!
Only Frank Howarth could over complicate cutting a piece of glass. 😂 Turned out nice in the end. Beautiful picture.
They use to make a glue like stuff especially for puzzles, you can just brush it on the Front and the back because it dries clear. I don’t know if they still make it or not. Don’t know why they wouldn’t.
You don't have to be so precious when cutting glass. Once it's been scored, a little squeeze with breaker pliers or swift smack on the braced offcut is all you need.
Yup
For anyone hanging with wire. The stuff you want is called aircraft cable and as a bonus, there are cinching connectors which allow you some height adjustment so you too can easily get a frame to the correct height 😉
Was once helping a friend hang a big frame and went to tie a knot in the cable. "You don't tie knots in the cable" he told me. Not even 10 minutes later the frame had fallen off the wall XD
Because the air in Side the case will be slightly insulated from the out side and puzzle pieces are made from paper and it holds moisture from the air. With the pieces touching the glass there is a possibility of condensation buildup on the glass that could cause mould. So just check it out every 6months just in case
If the photo is stored in a conditioned space that doesn't have daily or seasonal temperature swings, it should be ok... I agree that a matte would be better though.
Hi
Ist echt toll geworden!!!!!
And the Easter egg, Homer is at 17:10..... thank you for keeping that going
I just use puzzle glue on the front and elmers on the back. 2 coats on the back and it's like 1 solid piece of cardboard.
Now I want to see the picture of the Spiders :)
Only Frank would make a work of art to hold a work of art.
Mom needs a custom jigsaw table.
yea spray glue on only one side will work just fine, it just goes from "you aint getting this apart without destroying it" to "you can get it apart if your really careful and determined"
A photo of spiders lol! I like that, pretty awesome. :)
I’d like to see the spider photo, sounds kind of cool.
We want to see the photos of the spiders! Also, how do you measure the size of the frame? That's what I always have troubles with.
you should have your mom sign it somewhere around the perimeter! or have the grandchildren sign then back of the puzzle. or not. families should do whatever they want.
A perfect Mother's Day project. But I'm trying to figure out why you cut 2 pieces of glass?
17:50 "It's better than the photo of spiders that was up there before" - what?
Your Mum is so youthful looking!!!
Another awesome video :)
that's the jig Make Something made!
i want to see the spider photo
Nice
Bed goes up!
I apologize if my comment is a repeat, but you really should have your shaper set up with the fences as close as possible to the cutter. Essentially, what you should aim for is a fence as close as possible to zero clearance at the deepest cut. For safety!
I dont like using glass for the puzzles I use puzzle glue the front it gives a shiny look and doesnt have a glare like glass, its little hard to clean :)
old glass gets brittle. get someone to cut it for you. it's dirt cheap.
Bed goes up, bed goes down
As someone who has done professional framing: it's not okay to have the work against the glass. Add a spacer to stop it touching. For flat work (which I suppose this isn't exactly) you get moisture on the glass and work often sticks to it, or at least leaves marks. You always want an air gap between the work and the glazing.
Well now I want to see the photo of the spiders...
you can never have enough ruler/straight edges or clamps.
Thats glass for you duse what it wants on its schedule not yours.... worked out realy nicly
Photo of the spiders!?
The confusing part for me is that you 'un-did' it being a puzzle.
Wouldn't it have been better to simply sandwich it between a stiff and a clear sheet?
(Like a sheet of aluminum or 3mm ply and a sheet of polycarb or acrylic)
Great video! My only complain would be that you didn't wore gloves while cutting the glas and didn't show wet sanding the edges.
That can be really dangerous!
Déjà vu
Excuse me, "photo of the spiders?"
Why can’t you just cut 45 degree cuts in your wood frame and make em fit right? I don’t get it. Can you give us a demonstration as to why this method doesn’t work right. Keep making the vids, I love em 😁😁👍👍
You can. But they've got to be a perfect 45°. If you're off by half a degree it compounds around the whole frame and you're left adjusting the mitres until they're perfect.
With Frank's sled, it's ok if it's off a little. As long as the sled corner is perfectly 90° the frame will have perfectly matching mitred corners.
Others i have seen making this sled will use an aluminium framing square and only cut the 45° corner when it's securely and permanently attached to the sled as this guarantees you a 90° corner.
:-)
Wow, I"m sorry you had to do that plug. it just...sounded so robotic, and soul sucking, like they weren't your words, but you just had to recite them from an index card." I don't blame you, I know you're an introvert like I am.
We saw this video this morning.