Part 2 - th-cam.com/video/4leMhyQ2PRU/w-d-xo.html Note: Yes, I am aware these give super clear RGB if you get an RGB SCART cable! I always like to have Composite as an option. Composite Amp PCB that can be used with various systems:- oshpark.com/shared_projects/DOX9VkSV
Hah, I came down to the comments to ask why you didn't just use the RGB. My grey +2 looks amazing through my SCART cable. Composite for anything is just not acceptable for me any more!
@@tarstarkusz a container used for throwing large amounts of rubbish in, usually delivered somewhere on the back of a flatbed-type lorry with a hoist. The US equivalent would be a roll-off i think
Nicely repaired! Can I suggest washing the motherboard in warm soapy water, much less of a hassle than earbuds and alcohol, and will get more dirt out of the crevices (you can use an old toothbrush to gently scrub if necessary). Afterwards rinse and dry thoroughly.
It's really satisfying seeing a heap of junk being restored to full working order. I wish I had some of your skills, I could do this all day long. :) Looking forwards to part 2!
I think you should be knighted for this effort :) It's heart-warming to see it restored. Amstrad +2A might not possess the charm of the older "toast rack" model but looking back I'm glad that my parents got their hands on the +2A. It was able to withstand countless hours of use and sometimes even abuse :) I basically owe this machine my whole IT career and I keep it to this day for sentimental reasons.
Gadget, on those power dins,i inject hot glue after i solder all the wires and fill the cavity up,then quickly wrap a piece of black tape around the outside of the pins. makes a flexible strain relief and insulates it all,and the sleeve still slips right on. Makes it near impossible to rip the wires from the connector ever again. On Loose strain reliefs: the strain relief psu side, slip the wire thru the strain relief too far, put a small ring of superglue on the wire(inside part toward the transformer side) then pull the wire into the strain relief,instant super glue bond.
Christ almighty this one's been battered about. Broken posts galore. I think the melting trick is actually quite good. I don't know how many cotton buds you used to clean up the board but somebody in the cotton bud business is happy with your work Chris! I was surprised to see an Amstrad keyboard in a Spectrum machine, but I suppose that's standard. In the back of my mind I have a slumbering wish to own one of these machines. Just to make up for the grief of trying to make an external tape deck work on a ZX which is a nightmare. Well done Chris. I am surprised that the tape deck didn't require new belts or any gears replaced.
Thanks =D And yes lol - totally battered =/ It may need a new belt yet (I do have some spares). I will test the cassette deck in the next part! Amstrad manufactured these so I guess its not wonder they used an almost identical keyboard type and the cassette unit too.
You could use heated paperclip (or some other thin metal) and melt it into the plastic from the inside (perpendicular to the crack, just like you did here with a soldering iron), leaving the part of the metal in there as reinforcement, and then put a drop of superglue on it. I usually do that and it holds really really well.
excellent video gadget, i feel like cosmetics go a long way into the satisfaction of getting these things up and running again, so it's nice to see a lot of good advice on how to stop them looking so tired and beaten up :D
Great work, was so sad to see such a mistreated speccy +2 128k, but if anyone can bring it back from the dead, it's you! Absolutely brilliant job as always. I had one of these back in the day and loved it. Love to see more Yoshi though, he's awesome
Thanks, much appreciated =D They are lovely machines! I never had the black model before. Yoshi seems to be insisting to be on camera recently - he wouldnt level me alone today whilst filming a CDI repair lol.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods: Cats just love tech stuff it seems! My cat Shadow loves watching me play on my retro and modern gaming gear, and even tries to join in! Your restoration vids are fantastic, Great channel
When glueing these broken pillars, use a two part acrylic bonder. It’s like an epoxy, in so much as you mix the two parts before using, but it will stick any plastic permanently. It is VERY expensive however, but so, so worth it. One downside though..........it really stinks! It smells like fibreglass resin. Give it a try, you won’t be disappointed.
The mains cable entering the PSU always seemed to fray at the end like that. We used to have to push the PSU up against the wall to get ours to work. All it took was a few attempts! Happy days :')
for the plastic instead of trying to melt it with a soldering iron, if it's ABS use acitone and dab it on each broken piece and press them together. it will chemically weld it
This is great! Good work! My first computer was a TS1000 (ZX81). I know they had the TS2068, but I wish they had the Spectrum series here in the States (NTSC vs. PAL).
Those grommets frequently wear out on systems I have worked on, which is actually good, because it means they did their job. You can order them on eBay (or elsewhere) in a several sizes by searching for "strain relief".
I still have one. The cassette player wore out. I had it connected to an external tape deck eventually, but a few years after that the brick (power supply) finally gave up.
Recently I've been dealing with the same problem and found this: www.keelog.com/zx-spectrum-psu-modern-black-uk-replacement-zx-spectrum-power-supply-uk-plug/ Sinclair PSUs used to fail even when new and connecting an unserviced old one is a bit risky nowadays. The computer worked which was a pleasant surprise but it was clear that the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced at some point.
It's a shame that this speccy has taken so much abuse. Best thing is, it works ....looking forward to part two and to see the finished computer.. great vid as always Chris😁😁😁..Kim 😋
In retrospect I kind of wish all the systems had an RGB card edge output where you'd simply plug in a large external AV-Out module like the TG-16 and Jaguar had, a lot easier to later add Composite, S-video, Component, or SCART that way. Internally so many systems never seemed to plan ahead for increasing AV fidelity standards. A lot of work but a nice variety of repairs to watch heh. :)
I reckon it’s to be expected, winter is a bad time for that sort of thing. Even the American TH-camrs with their better weather and larger selection are still complaining there’s nothing out there right now.
fixing the plastic you could try model car cement not the glue but the liquid cement as it partially melts (chemically ) the plastic and forms a stronger bond . test the plastic with a small drop of cement wait a few seconds and try to lightly scratch if it smears the plastic then it will work to repair the broken parts although it takes longer to cure (harden) ,just a suggestion
Hi. You wouldn’t know if the fuse you replaced is fast or slow blow? I need to order some and no one seems to know what to order apart from 3.15 amp 250V
You have the patience of a saint I have to say, I'd have parted this one out I think (or at least found another broken one in better condition to cannibalise). Especially given the patient -- a fake Spectrum, and a +2A at that? Not worth the time to be honest, but great to see it up and running again.
I was a C64 guy but I did get a Spectrum+ later on and really didn't like it. It was the display - thrown on as an afterthought and avoiding using chips that used to be expensive.
hey nice video, any ideas on an issue I have with a speccy +2A/B it plays many games fine but some which are compatible with +2A like Magicland Dizzy do not play and just crash after starting the game. I suspect RAM may be an issue so Ive ordered some new RAM chips to try. Any ideas what it could be? thanks
Most probably RAM! Some older 48K games need to be loaded from 48K basic. You can get "test carts" for the Speccy that will test the RAM - check out places like Byte Delight. www.bytedelight.com/?product_cat=zxdiagcarts
Can you buy cable tension relief / grommets ? I have a joystick which needs a new cable. I was going to get a joystick extension cable as a replacement but I need the tension relief joystick side I thought at the start when you said you think the computer suffered some trauma you was gone to show us some little bit of plastic missing or a little crack, not a huge gaping hole. LOL I'll try make the Riot Retro thing. Where do I catch it?
Yes, you can get them from eBay (or CPC / Farnell / RS etc). LOL @ little crack =D Thanks =D This is the link the Riot Retro Gaming YT channel:- th-cam.com/users/oobumblebeeoo
Do you ever try acetone to weld plastic together? I've had great success with this (reconstituted a C64 monitor that was crushed in shipping). Plastic has to be ABS of course.
If its nail polish you mean, then check first as the modern stuff can be acetone free. I usually get a bottle of pure acetone from the pharmacy. When doing the weld, paint both surfaces and hold in place for a while until firmly bonded.
Great vid just subscribed. Does anyone one know where I can get a replacement datacoder plexi screen, mine seems to be missing, its quite thin clear plastic and difficult to fabricate.
Hi and happy year!, I recently had a spectrum + 2b which made the typical clicks of the plate's ground screws, tighten them and click them, the problem is now, I have two gray +2 spectrum and these play, ect do not make any noise, however the + 2b each time the cassette engine is clicked on the edge, is this so, is there any mod to eliminate it and not make noise like gray? say that I changed the electrolytic capacitors of both the plate and the cassette and reviewed the welds on the cassette plate as well
It seems the audio circuits on these aren't great. I find that I get noise on my +2 and +2B when they are near the floor (where I have mains cables underground nearby). I did find that the audio on my +2 was much much better and noise free after doing the stereo mod I covered in this series.
Yes, should be there! Might be an idea if we try to connect a bit earlier if you are able? Maybe 15 mins before - or earlier - I am home off work all day tomorrow! Just let me know =D
hi i watch a lot of your videos very informative and helpful .i would like to know if you could help me out . i have picked up a zx spectrum 128k +2 i have seen it working but i have to pick up my own power supply.which power supply would best. i do have a switchable power supply with switchable polarity and switchable voltage but dont know if that would work. thank you in advance STEVE.
I take it you have the grey model? That can be powered by 9V DC. The later (black) models have a different power connector (DIN). If you have the grey model you can use an adjustable PSU, set to 9V. You need to make 100% sure you get the polarity the right way around (centre pin negative, outer part positive). The PSU needs to provide at least 1 amp, but 2.1 amps is what Sinclair specified on the original one.
@@GadgetUK164 hi yes it is the grey one with the 9v. i do have a switchable psu which has switchable voltage and switchable polarity.also has written on psu 300mA 3.6VA MAX
300mA is not enough! At the very least I would think you would need 1A, but with the tape deck etc, 2.1A (as quoted on the original PSU) is probably what you need.
@@GadgetUK164 OK thank you for getting back to me so quick. i will have a look on ebay and see what new power supply i can pick up. i am not in a rush as i have my commdores to have some fun with until i pick a new psu up for the spectrum.i have watched a lot of your videos and have learnt alot .i do have a voltage saver on my commodores until i pick up a new psu for them too.
Nice job once again bud, that thing was an absolute mess! I'd definitely replace that tape drive belt though, that thing is looser than a prostitutes underpants!
You could maybe get a ZXMMC ( www.8bits4ever.net/product-page/ZXMMC ), burn some +3e ROMS ( www.worldofspectrum.org/zxplus3e ) and turn it into a +2e. You could utilize that hole in the case to mount the external SD slot. Maybe also rewire the joystick ports to Atari standard.
I have the same model of ZX Spectrum +2A as shown in the video -mine is almost in mint condition though-. The PCB is also "Z70833 Issue 2 1988": I've search it out and all the ZX Spectrum forums and sites say that this PCB corresponds to a +2B, but mine clearly shows +2A and it is made in Taiwan as the one in the video. I think it is a transition model between +2A and +2B... There must be not many of these..
Excellent video as always, the black +2A and plus 3's are my second favourite spectrum after the toast-rack. I have a couple of +2A's and both have similar bodges like the diodes my guess is its factory rework as they got fitted backwards on the assembly line. They where Amstrad after all so cost cutting to the max. it would be an excellent candidate for an internal ZXMMC board I have a video I did about fitting one to my plus3 hear th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=ZDQ3Ev5CGGc in fact I've just had 10 PCB's made to make some and most of the components have now arrived just waiting for the SD card slots to come from china. would you like one as a kit to assemble? it is all SMT tho. Jay
Thanks =D I did consider a DivMMC or DivIDE internal, but for the moment I've just opted for the stereo audio connections! Thanks for the offer on a PCB kit =D Look forward to your video!!!!
![กี่หมื่นฟ้า | Your Sky Series EP.1 [1/4]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vLGjxFL6U_I/mqdefault.jpg)
Part 2 - th-cam.com/video/4leMhyQ2PRU/w-d-xo.html
Note: Yes, I am aware these give super clear RGB if you get an RGB SCART cable! I always like to have Composite as an option.
Composite Amp PCB that can be used with various systems:- oshpark.com/shared_projects/DOX9VkSV
Hah, I came down to the comments to ask why you didn't just use the RGB. My grey +2 looks amazing through my SCART cable. Composite for anything is just not acceptable for me any more!
What's a skip?
@@tarstarkusz a container used for throwing large amounts of rubbish in, usually delivered somewhere on the back of a flatbed-type lorry with a hoist. The US equivalent would be a roll-off i think
Thanks Peter.
Great vid. I was wondering why you need an amp for composite vid when you don't need one for the 48k? Is the sound an issue?
Nicely repaired! Can I suggest washing the motherboard in warm soapy water, much less of a hassle than earbuds and alcohol, and will get more dirt out of the crevices (you can use an old toothbrush to gently scrub if necessary). Afterwards rinse and dry thoroughly.
It's really satisfying seeing a heap of junk being restored to full working order. I wish I had some of your skills, I could do this all day long. :)
Looking forwards to part 2!
Thanks! I wish I could do this stuff all day long too =/ This week I am on holiday from work, so far I've done nothing but repair things lol.
I think you should be knighted for this effort :) It's heart-warming to see it restored. Amstrad +2A might not possess the charm of the older "toast rack" model but looking back I'm glad that my parents got their hands on the +2A. It was able to withstand countless hours of use and sometimes even abuse :) I basically owe this machine my whole IT career and I keep it to this day for sentimental reasons.
Haha, thanks lol =D I too got into IT after having a Spectrum! It was using the BBC Model B at school that pushed me in the direction though!
Gadget, on those power dins,i inject hot glue after i solder all the wires and fill the cavity up,then quickly wrap a piece of black tape around the outside of the pins. makes a flexible strain relief and insulates it all,and the sleeve still slips right on. Makes it near impossible to rip the wires from the connector ever again. On Loose strain reliefs: the strain relief psu side, slip the wire thru the strain relief too far, put a small ring of superglue on the wire(inside part toward the transformer side) then pull the wire into the strain relief,instant super glue bond.
Nice tip thanks!! =D
Christ almighty this one's been battered about. Broken posts galore. I think the melting trick is actually quite good. I don't know how many cotton buds you used to clean up the board but somebody in the cotton bud business is happy with your work Chris!
I was surprised to see an Amstrad keyboard in a Spectrum machine, but I suppose that's standard.
In the back of my mind I have a slumbering wish to own one of these machines. Just to make up for the grief of trying to make an external tape deck work on a ZX which is a nightmare.
Well done Chris. I am surprised that the tape deck didn't require new belts or any gears replaced.
Thanks =D And yes lol - totally battered =/ It may need a new belt yet (I do have some spares). I will test the cassette deck in the next part! Amstrad manufactured these so I guess its not wonder they used an almost identical keyboard type and the cassette unit too.
You could use heated paperclip (or some other thin metal) and melt it into the plastic from the inside (perpendicular to the crack, just like you did here with a soldering iron), leaving the part of the metal in there as reinforcement, and then put a drop of superglue on it. I usually do that and it holds really really well.
Great idea =D
If anyone can bring a system back from the brink... Its GadgetUK :) The fact it makes a compelling and educating watch is a massive bonus!
Cheers mate =D It was great to see you on the live stream last night =D Sorry if I missed any questions - was hard following everything lol
Starting to look good! Great to see this literally saved from the trash heap.
=D
excellent video gadget, i feel like cosmetics go a long way into the satisfaction of getting these things up and running again, so it's nice to see a lot of good advice on how to stop them looking so tired and beaten up :D
Thanks, much appreciated =D It won't be perfect but it will be better!
Great work, was so sad to see such a mistreated speccy +2 128k, but if anyone can bring it back from the dead, it's you! Absolutely brilliant job as always. I had one of these back in the day and loved it. Love to see more Yoshi though, he's awesome
Thanks, much appreciated =D They are lovely machines! I never had the black model before. Yoshi seems to be insisting to be on camera recently - he wouldnt level me alone today whilst filming a CDI repair lol.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods: Cats just love tech stuff it seems! My cat Shadow loves watching me play on my retro and modern gaming gear, and even tries to join in! Your restoration vids are fantastic, Great channel
=D Cats are great lol
When glueing these broken pillars, use a two part acrylic bonder. It’s like an epoxy, in so much as you mix the two parts before using, but it will stick any plastic permanently. It is VERY expensive however, but so, so worth it. One downside though..........it really stinks! It smells like fibreglass resin. Give it a try, you won’t be disappointed.
Great tip!
The mains cable entering the PSU always seemed to fray at the end like that. We used to have to push the PSU up against the wall to get ours to work. All it took was a few attempts! Happy days :')
It's my favorite Spectrum, love the fact the tape deck is part of the machine.
Yeah, I like the fact you dont have to mess with volume levels lol.
for the plastic instead of trying to melt it with a soldering iron, if it's ABS use acitone and dab it on each broken piece and press them together. it will chemically weld it
Thanks! I keep forgetting to try acetone! Will nick my wifes acetone later and give it a go for part 2 =D
This is great! Good work! My first computer was a TS1000 (ZX81). I know they had the TS2068, but I wish they had the Spectrum series here in the States (NTSC vs. PAL).
Thanks =D My first computer was also a ZX81 =D
Those grommets frequently wear out on systems I have worked on, which is actually good, because it means they did their job. You can order them on eBay (or elsewhere) in a several sizes by searching for "strain relief".
I still have one. The cassette player wore out. I had it connected to an external tape deck eventually, but a few years after that the brick (power supply) finally gave up.
Recently I've been dealing with the same problem and found this: www.keelog.com/zx-spectrum-psu-modern-black-uk-replacement-zx-spectrum-power-supply-uk-plug/ Sinclair PSUs used to fail even when new and connecting an unserviced old one is a bit risky nowadays. The computer worked which was a pleasant surprise but it was clear that the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced at some point.
It's a shame that this speccy has taken so much abuse. Best thing is, it works ....looking forward to part two and to see the finished computer.. great vid as always Chris😁😁😁..Kim 😋
Thanks =D Yes, poor little thing was beaten lol
Such a great video! Really has helped me assess a recent pick up of two +2’s
Thanks =D Glad it was useful =D
In retrospect I kind of wish all the systems had an RGB card edge output where you'd simply plug in a large external AV-Out module like the TG-16 and Jaguar had, a lot easier to later add Composite, S-video, Component, or SCART that way. Internally so many systems never seemed to plan ahead for increasing AV fidelity standards.
A lot of work but a nice variety of repairs to watch heh. :)
Thanks =D
Surprisingly it never occured to people that we might still want to be playing these systems thirty, forty years down the line.
Gotta keep and eye out for one of these once car boot season starts up again.
Car boot sales seem to be drying up recently =/ My parents haven't seen anything on car boots for months either =/
I reckon it’s to be expected, winter is a bad time for that sort of thing. Even the American TH-camrs with their better weather and larger selection are still complaining there’s nothing out there right now.
Brilliant work! Can't wait for part 2.
Thanks
Great work Chris enjoyed that, looking forward to part 2
Cheers mate =D
fixing the plastic you could try model car cement not the glue but the liquid cement as it partially melts (chemically ) the plastic and forms a stronger bond .
test the plastic with a small drop of cement wait a few seconds and try to lightly scratch if it smears the plastic then it will work to repair the broken parts
although it takes longer to cure (harden) ,just a suggestion
Thanks, great suggestion =D
Really interesting,subbed.Amazing transformation.
Thanks =D
Fantastic piece of hardware and a neat fix.
Thanks =D It's looking a lot better in Part 2 =D
Man! This is genius!! Well done mate I really enjoyed this video. :)
Thanks again!!! =D
Hi. You wouldn’t know if the fuse you replaced is fast or slow blow? I need to order some and no one seems to know what to order apart from 3.15 amp 250V
Boils my piss when someone treats a retro computer like it's a piece of junk.
Another ace vid my man. Nice to see the Mrs toothbrush make another appearance. Looking forward to p2
Hehe, thanks =D
You have the patience of a saint I have to say, I'd have parted this one out I think (or at least found another broken one in better condition to cannibalise). Especially given the patient -- a fake Spectrum, and a +2A at that? Not worth the time to be honest, but great to see it up and running again.
Thanks lol
I was a C64 guy but I did get a Spectrum+ later on and really didn't like it. It was the display - thrown on as an afterthought and avoiding using chips that used to be expensive.
Hi, you mentioned that you would post a link to the composite amplifier PCB in the description - would you mind sharing it? Love the videos BTW!
I will stick it in the description now - but the link is oshpark.com/shared_projects/DOX9VkSV
hey nice video, any ideas on an issue I have with a speccy +2A/B it plays many games fine but some which are compatible with +2A like Magicland Dizzy do not play and just crash after starting the game. I suspect RAM may be an issue so Ive ordered some new RAM chips to try. Any ideas what it could be? thanks
Most probably RAM! Some older 48K games need to be loaded from 48K basic. You can get "test carts" for the Speccy that will test the RAM - check out places like Byte Delight. www.bytedelight.com/?product_cat=zxdiagcarts
19:48 Maybe a repair? Pretty sure some of the Amstrad Speccies RGB ports were mixed up from the factory.
Outstanding video!
Thanks =D Much appreciated!
Can you buy cable tension relief / grommets ?
I have a joystick which needs a new cable. I was going to get a joystick
extension cable as a replacement but I need the tension relief joystick side
I thought at the start when you said you think the computer suffered some trauma you was gone to show us some little bit of plastic missing or a little crack, not a huge gaping hole. LOL
I'll try make the Riot Retro thing. Where do I catch it?
Yes, you can get them from eBay (or CPC / Farnell / RS etc). LOL @ little crack =D Thanks =D This is the link the Riot Retro Gaming YT channel:- th-cam.com/users/oobumblebeeoo
Do you ever try acetone to weld plastic together? I've had great success with this (reconstituted a C64 monitor that was crushed in shipping). Plastic has to be ABS of course.
Not tried it yet - I might go steal my wifes acetone for part 2 =D
If its nail polish you mean, then check first as the modern stuff can be acetone free. I usually get a bottle of pure acetone from the pharmacy. When doing the weld, paint both surfaces and hold in place for a while until firmly bonded.
Awesome repair
Thanks as always =D
Great job, another one saved
Thanks =D
Great vid just subscribed. Does anyone one know where I can get a replacement datacoder plexi screen, mine seems to be missing, its quite thin clear plastic and difficult to fabricate.
Reminds me that I have 2 464s in my loft which require repair, think the ram went bad. Probably worth socketing them.
It's often the RAM or traces on CPCs =D I did fix a few RAM faults when I was in the trade.
Hi and happy year!, I recently had a spectrum + 2b which made the typical clicks of the plate's ground screws, tighten them and click them, the problem is now, I have two gray +2 spectrum and these play, ect do not make any noise, however the + 2b each time the cassette engine is clicked on the edge, is this so, is there any mod to eliminate it and not make noise like gray?
say that I changed the electrolytic capacitors of both the plate and the cassette and reviewed the welds on the cassette plate as well
It seems the audio circuits on these aren't great. I find that I get noise on my +2 and +2B when they are near the floor (where I have mains cables underground nearby). I did find that the audio on my +2 was much much better and noise free after doing the stereo mod I covered in this series.
Really enjoyable vids!
Thanks =D
Sweet. I'll watch this tonight.
Still on for tomorrow?
Yes, should be there! Might be an idea if we try to connect a bit earlier if you are able? Maybe 15 mins before - or earlier - I am home off work all day tomorrow! Just let me know =D
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods ok brill check.your email! 😉
Keyboards been punched,in my house you needed a punch proof pc when i was a kid.Looking at the impact damage that could have been my old speccy.
I've got bin liner full of these tapes 😂
hi i watch a lot of your videos very informative and helpful .i would like to know if you could help me out . i have picked up a zx spectrum 128k +2 i have seen it working but i have to pick up my own power supply.which power supply would best. i do have a switchable power supply with switchable polarity and switchable voltage but dont know if that would work. thank you in advance STEVE.
I take it you have the grey model? That can be powered by 9V DC. The later (black) models have a different power connector (DIN). If you have the grey model you can use an adjustable PSU, set to 9V. You need to make 100% sure you get the polarity the right way around (centre pin negative, outer part positive). The PSU needs to provide at least 1 amp, but 2.1 amps is what Sinclair specified on the original one.
@@GadgetUK164 hi yes it is the grey one with the 9v. i do have a switchable psu which has switchable voltage and switchable polarity.also has written on psu 300mA 3.6VA MAX
300mA is not enough! At the very least I would think you would need 1A, but with the tape deck etc, 2.1A (as quoted on the original PSU) is probably what you need.
@@GadgetUK164 OK thank you for getting back to me so quick. i will have a look on ebay and see what new power supply i can pick up. i am not in a rush as i have my commdores to have some fun with until i pick a new psu up for the spectrum.i have watched a lot of your videos and have learnt alot .i do have a voltage saver on my commodores until i pick up a new psu for them too.
And another one breathes and ticks again! :)
=D
HI WHEN TRYING TO REPAIR A PLASTIC A B S CASE TRY USING A 3D pen with abs plastic.
Nice, shame the case was in such a poor shape but i know you'll get it looking respectable in the end.
It is a shame about that giant hole. but it does look a lot better now I think (as you will see in part 2)!
'and then stick it in and out of the slot.. a good 10-20 times..'
:o)
What's the name of the game at the end please?
That was a Final Fight game (created in the last few years).
Nice job once again bud, that thing was an absolute mess! I'd definitely replace that tape drive belt though, that thing is looser than a prostitutes underpants!
Thanks, and hahaha =D
You could maybe get a ZXMMC ( www.8bits4ever.net/product-page/ZXMMC ), burn some +3e ROMS ( www.worldofspectrum.org/zxplus3e ) and turn it into a +2e. You could utilize that hole in the case to mount the external SD slot.
Maybe also rewire the joystick ports to Atari standard.
when you flipped it over i noticed it said made in taiwan, which means it is probably a +2a, +2b units tend to say made in china.
Thanks! That's useful information =D
Correct, +2A if made in Taiwan which includes all motherboard revisions except the issue 4 when the production was moved to China (+2B).
I have the same model of ZX Spectrum +2A as shown in the video -mine is almost in mint condition though-. The PCB is also "Z70833 Issue 2 1988": I've search it out and all the ZX Spectrum forums and sites say that this PCB corresponds to a +2B, but mine clearly shows +2A and it is made in Taiwan as the one in the video.
I think it is a transition model between +2A and +2B... There must be not many of these..
That poor speccy...
Yep - very unloved!
The poor speccy.
Excellent video as always, the black +2A and plus 3's are my second favourite spectrum after the toast-rack. I have a couple of +2A's and both have similar bodges like the diodes my guess is its factory rework as they got fitted backwards on the assembly line. They where Amstrad after all so cost cutting to the max. it would be an excellent candidate for an internal ZXMMC board I have a video I did about fitting one to my plus3 hear th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=ZDQ3Ev5CGGc in fact I've just had 10 PCB's made to make some and most of the components have now arrived just waiting for the SD card slots to come from china. would you like one as a kit to assemble? it is all SMT tho. Jay
Thanks =D I did consider a DivMMC or DivIDE internal, but for the moment I've just opted for the stereo audio connections! Thanks for the offer on a PCB kit =D Look forward to your video!!!!
I still can not buy one. Anyway, great work !
Thanks! The problem with the +2A / B and +3 is the cost of the PSU too.
Don't use WD40 on rubber to slide. Use something else. WD40 removes moisture. It isn't a lubricant.
It does contain a lubricant too! It's primarily a solvent but it does provide a lubricant too (although it doesn't last).