Thank goodness for me I've only ever watched YOU and your channel regarding this topic! No log home shows nothing like that lol I actually had to look one up on Google to see what you were referring to and all I can say is it looks unattractive and weird to me personally without the spacing ! I'm.only 28 so I don't know a ton about it but I really appreciate the older ways of workmanship
Thanks for the kind works Yousef. It sounds like you are well on your way into the craftsmanship journey, or certainly the appreciation of it! Thank you for following along!
Im,still in the process of my chinking ,,,,,wire mesh n motar cement ,,,,colored for attraction ,,,,I have figured out that reguardless of the log cabin build ,,the chinking is by far the most important process of the build due to weather proffing,...i follow along with your videos and save them for future uses ,,,,,so when I get finished with my timber fram log cabin I'll send pics of my,process that I got from you ,,,,,,thanks for,the info Mr bradley ,,,
Thank you so much for ya video's So much great information,chinking gap's are very important as you say I also love big chinking gap's for the way it makes the cabin look again thanks for all these video's.
My thoughts on the larger gaps is fewer logs required. Hewing logs was very time consuming and labor intensive, so the fewer the quicker it would be up is my personal thought.
Thank you Kenn. The rounded saddle notch is a traditional notch that came over from Europe, often attributed to Scandinavia. Here in the mid-Atlantic it was used by pioneers for quick-shelter cabins that featured rounded logs on the frontier. These would last maybe 10-15 years before decaying into oblivion. Hopefully that would be enough time for a frontiersman to hew and erect a finer cabin in between all of the other chores that would occupy his time.
Hi Noah! Quick question, if you have time: I’m building my log cabin in northwestern Montana. I’m curious as to the insulation aspect of my cabin. It gets mighty cold here. Do I try to cut the logs thicker? Or add insulation another way? It will impact how I design the cabin, I believe. This will be my full time home, and I want to get it right the first time. I appreciate your videos, and you’ve got me hooked in. I’ll be purchasing your academy package, and I’m excited to dive into this Winter as I’m snowed in here in Montana, planning my log cabin build for the Spring. You’ve swayed me from the “stacked” style to the “chinked” style. You’ve really opened my eyes, thank you!
I thought I had replied to this comment, so sorry for the late reply. Thermal mass will govern the insulation value of the logs. I advocate the use of spray foam insulation (in between the chinking on each side) to make the cabin air tight. Going this route will give you the best insulation value in a traditional style log cabin where there is chinking between the logs. As for the logs, their insulation value is generally considered to be about 1-R value per inch. That is not much, so you shooting for a 6 inch log and for the cabin to be as air-tight is possible is typically what I recommend. Finally, siting your home on in a location where it will receive ample sun but not be blasted by prevailing winds unimpeded will help too. That and perhaps mitigating some of the opportunities for draft with a stick frame or timberframed addition will still give you the cabin you are looking for with less direct exposure to artic winds by having further opportunities for insulation. All the best with your project! --Noah
Off topic but... Would you use wood decking for sheathing on the outside of stick framed walls? Similar thinking to the rough sawn poplar on your log shed roof.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley I have been watching your vids all day. Verry inspiring. I am know looking for salvage logs here in MN. There is a salvage place just down the road from me, but he is hard to work with and is very expensive. I will keep looking.😀
Yes. It was (and now continues to be used) in historic restoration on half-timbered framed homes in England and I imagine elsewhere. It is the traditional recipe for application between timbers on the wood lath woven between them. It is not what I recommend for cabins, but I have no issues, none whatsoever, with those who chose lime for their mixture.
Thanks for that chinking hands on at the very end Noah! Not sure why but I got a tad teary eyed , it's my soul telling me yes this is exactly the info I need to be receiving at this moment. As I stated before my wife and I saving alot to make this dream happen even with two toddlers running around our rented property :) Beautiful home.in nature is so the way to go . Can you even imagine if everyone ditched the cookie cutter lifestyle and adapted to this style ? What a wonderfully attractive world it would be
Hey Noah, good to see another video from you. Yeah, personally I've always liked the looks of a chinked cabin more than what looks like a dry stacked cabin anyway. Whether the interior and exterior are hewn flat or not, there needs to be that chinking gap to, as you said, reflect more light in the interior. Plus, the gaps, in the interior, are a great place to set floor joists and shelf/cabinet supports, in addition to the modern electrical and plumbing runs we humans have become dependent on. Of course the "cement" of old has been replaced with more modern versions, and the mosses and animal hair they would have used as a binder and insulation have been replaced, but what would they have used as a backer like the expanded metal mesh that you put behind the chinking "cement" in your video?
Thanks for the comment and kind words Thomas. The "backer" was typically small wood pieces, such as cut offs from lumber (called "chinks"), shoved in on an angle between the logs and then plastered over.
Thank you Noah, for continuing to share from your wealth of knowledge. You are an inspiration. 👍🙂
I appreciate that! Thank you Outsider!
Thank you for sharing this knowledge and keeping up the traditions of the log cabin building!👍
Love your channel. Bought an older log home, I'm learning as much as I can before making the repairs it needs. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thank goodness for me I've only ever watched YOU and your channel regarding this topic! No log home shows nothing like that lol I actually had to look one up on Google to see what you were referring to and all I can say is it looks unattractive and weird to me personally without the spacing ! I'm.only 28 so I don't know a ton about it but I really appreciate the older ways of workmanship
Thanks for the kind works Yousef. It sounds like you are well on your way into the craftsmanship journey, or certainly the appreciation of it! Thank you for following along!
Sister's place has Swiss splines.... I didn't know the reason behind sealing/water-proofing the logs until now!
Thank you for your detailed discussion of this topic! Super helpful!
You bet! My pleasure!
Im,still in the process of my chinking ,,,,,wire mesh n motar cement ,,,,colored for attraction ,,,,I have figured out that reguardless of the log cabin build ,,the chinking is by far the most important process of the build due to weather proffing,...i follow along with your videos and save them for future uses ,,,,,so when I get finished with my timber fram log cabin I'll send pics of my,process that I got from you ,,,,,,thanks for,the info Mr bradley ,,,
I think the chinked log cabins look much classier. A lot of old homes and cabins are built like this in Eastern Ontario
Good to know! Thank you Cenari for following along!
Thank you Noah for the helpful and detailed information🌞
You are welcome GG! Thanks for following along!
Thank you so much for ya video's
So much great information,chinking gap's are very important as you say I also love big chinking gap's for the way it makes the cabin look again thanks for all these video's.
Awesome information.. I've been a builder since I was a teenager. It's hard not to believe the original builders, went through the same mistakes?
Thank you! Well said!
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley His story repeating... 👍😇😉 And thank you kind sir.
Extremely helpful. Thank you so much Noah!
Glad it was helpful! My pleasure!
At that moment when i purchase some logs im building a log cabin
Great video. Thanks again, Noah!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you!
My thoughts on the larger gaps is fewer logs required. Hewing logs was very time consuming and labor intensive, so the fewer the quicker it would be up is my personal thought.
And thank you for sharing your knowledge!
God I love this channel. Wish Noah was my neighbor
Thanks Shane K! I appreciate that!
Watching your series, we are going with dyed chinking. On the Flamingo, do you use their pre- mixed mortar? Or just dyed cement?
All you'll need to know is in the chinking academy!
Good video, Noah. I was wondering, when and why did the saddle joint become popular and begin to supplant the time tested method?
Thank you Kenn. The rounded saddle notch is a traditional notch that came over from Europe, often attributed to Scandinavia. Here in the mid-Atlantic it was used by pioneers for quick-shelter cabins that featured rounded logs on the frontier. These would last maybe 10-15 years before decaying into oblivion. Hopefully that would be enough time for a frontiersman to hew and erect a finer cabin in between all of the other chores that would occupy his time.
Hi Noah! Quick question, if you have time: I’m building my log cabin in northwestern Montana. I’m curious as to the insulation aspect of my cabin. It gets mighty cold here. Do I try to cut the logs thicker? Or add insulation another way? It will impact how I design the cabin, I believe. This will be my full time home, and I want to get it right the first time.
I appreciate your videos, and you’ve got me hooked in. I’ll be purchasing your academy package, and I’m excited to dive into this Winter as I’m snowed in here in Montana, planning my log cabin build for the Spring. You’ve swayed me from the “stacked” style to the “chinked” style. You’ve really opened my eyes, thank you!
I thought I had replied to this comment, so sorry for the late reply.
Thermal mass will govern the insulation value of the logs. I advocate the use of spray foam insulation (in between the chinking on each side) to make the cabin air tight. Going this route will give you the best insulation value in a traditional style log cabin where there is chinking between the logs. As for the logs, their insulation value is generally considered to be about 1-R value per inch. That is not much, so you shooting for a 6 inch log and for the cabin to be as air-tight is possible is typically what I recommend.
Finally, siting your home on in a location where it will receive ample sun but not be blasted by prevailing winds unimpeded will help too. That and perhaps mitigating some of the opportunities for draft with a stick frame or timberframed addition will still give you the cabin you are looking for with less direct exposure to artic winds by having further opportunities for insulation.
All the best with your project! --Noah
Off topic but... Would you use wood decking for sheathing on the outside of stick framed walls? Similar thinking to the rough sawn poplar on your log shed roof.
Your doing a wonderful job, Sir. Don’t worry bout the naysayers.
Thanks ABC! I appreciate the support!
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley anytime.
One thing that I don't understand is when you chunk with a ridged material" cement" and then your logs shrink, how doesn't that smash the chinking?
In working with reclaimed logs, the wood has already seasoned so that is not an issue. With newly sawn logs, they need to dry out before chinking.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley I have been watching your vids all day. Verry inspiring. I am know looking for salvage logs here in MN. There is a salvage place just down the road from me, but he is hard to work with and is very expensive. I will keep looking.😀
what was the color again you use?
We are breaking the comditioning
Are you familiar with hairy lime plaster?
Yes. It was (and now continues to be used) in historic restoration on half-timbered framed homes in England and I imagine elsewhere. It is the traditional recipe for application between timbers on the wood lath woven between them. It is not what I recommend for cabins, but I have no issues, none whatsoever, with those who chose lime for their mixture.
Thanks for that chinking hands on at the very end Noah! Not sure why but I got a tad teary eyed , it's my soul telling me yes this is exactly the info I need to be receiving at this moment. As I stated before my wife and I saving alot to make this dream happen even with two toddlers running around our rented property :) Beautiful home.in nature is so the way to go . Can you even imagine if everyone ditched the cookie cutter lifestyle and adapted to this style ? What a wonderfully attractive world it would be
Hey Noah, good to see another video from you. Yeah, personally I've always liked the looks of a chinked cabin more than what looks like a dry stacked cabin anyway. Whether the interior and exterior are hewn flat or not, there needs to be that chinking gap to, as you said, reflect more light in the interior. Plus, the gaps, in the interior, are a great place to set floor joists and shelf/cabinet supports, in addition to the modern electrical and plumbing runs we humans have become dependent on.
Of course the "cement" of old has been replaced with more modern versions, and the mosses and animal hair they would have used as a binder and insulation have been replaced, but what would they have used as a backer like the expanded metal mesh that you put behind the chinking "cement" in your video?
Thanks for the comment and kind words Thomas. The "backer" was typically small wood pieces, such as cut offs from lumber (called "chinks"), shoved in on an angle between the logs and then plastered over.
@@HandmadeHouseswithNoahBradley cool, thanks.