CVT Fluid Change, Toyota Corolla , 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- Changing the CVT Transmission Fluid on a 2014 Toyota Corolla with a CVT K313 Transmission.
Make sure to use only genuine Toyota fluid, as indicated on the fill bolt.
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Only a partial amount of the fluid comes out, about 2 quarts. It's recommended to have 3 quarts of fluid just in case. Repeat the drain and fill 3 times to replace 58% of the fluid. The only way to replace 100% is by using a flush machine.
Transmission drain plug torque: 30 ft lbs
Fill plug torque: 36 ft lbs
Wheel lug nuts: 76 ft lbs
⚠️ DISCLAIMER:
Use of the information in this video is solely at your own risk. The creator of this video assumes no liability for any property damage, injury or expenses incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
The creator of this video makes no claims, promises or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness, or applicability of the procedures and instructions contained in this video.
Any injury, damage, or loss that might occur as a result of improper application, improper use of tools or equipment, or from the information contained in this video, is solely the responsibility of the user.
#toyotacorolla #toyota #transmission #oilchange - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Questions and comments are welcome below! If you think this fluid doesn't need to be changed see this video: th-cam.com/video/aBySZB11ls8/w-d-xo.html
do you think the temperature gun or infared gun is still a viable option vs jumping the connector ?
@@CleverFix good to know seems simple enough to just use a jumper. Will test it against my flir one infrared adapter on my phone for accuracy. Another question I had was how do you know if the car is level enough to perform the test correctly when lifting you car? Did you use some kind of level?
@@TrueMesa No I didn't use a level, I just eyed it.. A little off should be fine, if it looks good to the eye then I think it's close enough. If it's up on a driveway I just use a jack at the back to lift the back and make it equal to the front.. it's harder to put my hand in to tighten the bolt that way though, it makes the front go down.. if you can park inside a garage, and leave the car down with no jack at all, that's ideal..
@j c 1Qqa@@1
a lot of great oil co. make FE type CVT fluid for a lot less than the Toyota brand for a lot less money, However this is a great Video
Gracias por tu trabajo.
ALWAYS remove the fill bolt FIRST. Just in case of the event to where the bolt cannot be removed for some reason, you won't be left with a empty transmission. Great video!
Good tip bro ❤
CORRECT!!
On which side of the car is the fill bolt?
I am a Toyota technician. The level check is really only required if you are having transmission issues. If not, draining and re filling it with the EXACT same amount of fluid is sufficient. But you have to be precise. And always use the Toyota fluid
Good info, thanks Andrew! Definitely only OEM fluid for me. I did the check for peace of mind, to make sure it was filled properly from the factory.. and it was of course. By any chance would you be able to look up the torque for Part#: 90341-A0008, on the oil filter housing. www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-filter-housing-plug-90341a0008 I checked two manuals with no luck.. local dealer gave me a spec, but it seems low, and someone else is saying the dealer could not give them a spec. I'm not sure where else I can confirm it. Thanks!
When you said EXACT same amount of fluid, is it by weight or by volume? Volume is affected by the temperature.
@@chinlin4362 If you use volume, make sure both new and old fluid are same temperature when measuring and you'll be 100% certain.
@@CleverFixShould I make the new oil the same temperature as the old drained one when I re-fill it? If I use the simple drain and refill without that level checking?
Should I make the new oil the same temperature as the old drained one when I re-fill it? If I use the simple drain and refill without that level checking?
Thank you for the video. Just helped my neighbor do a drain and fill on his wife's 2014 corolla with a 122,000 miles. Got the FE fluid from the local Toyota dealership for $105 plus tax for a 4 liter can. Old fluid looked pretty good, until we saw the color of the new fluid which is a light red color. The car sat overnight before draining on a flat surface. We got out 89 ounces which is more than we anticipated. We just measured out the new fluid for the fill.
Nice, Yes I thought the fluid wasn't so bad as well at first, until I saw the new one. Always feels good to put fresh fluid in, especially with that many miles. 😀
I have a 2017 - I like the price you got for 4 liter can. My dealership wanted $107 per quart, I didn't do it but that was 2 years ago maybe the price came down 🤞
Hey just curious how that vehicle is doing 12 months later? Getting ready to drain and fill my 17 Corolla iM
I did it today on my 2016 Corolla. The clue is just to put in the same amount you took out. It was all right. Thanks for the video.
Nice work!
Assuming it had the correct amount inside before draining.
@@Lughnersonare you changing the trans fluid at 1,000 miles like you would for a new broken in engine? I don't think so, more like 50k miles at that point the transmission would be toast since when changing it out for the first time at any mileage and not getting the correct level according to everyone here would be catastrophic for the CVT, having it underfilled from factory and driving it 50k miles would certainly kill it.
Fantastic video . Concise and clearly laid out and presented .
Great video. Thorough and no annoying music
Thanks 👍
This was one of the better instruction videos I have seen in quite a while. Nice work.
Thanks
The plastic straw is actually the dip stick and what I learnt from the mechanic is that once you emptied the CVT oil from the transimssion, just screw back the dip stick and leave the drain bolt hole open.
With the oil pan right below the drain hole, just fill the CVT transmission oil until the excess flow out from the dip stick (and stop). Let the excess oil flow out till it stop then tighten the drain bolt (there you go, thats the right amount of oil needed). You really don't need to measure how much transmission oil when refilling.
Follow the PROPER procedure in the manual!! There is a guide here: www.toyotanation.com/attachments/2014-16-transmission-cvt-fluid-change-corolla-k313-pdf.217610/ It should not be done any other way.
Best video on how to do this DIy. I remember you had one previously and this is best one yet. Just had to make sure the vehicle is leveled accurately (using a leveler on door sill). Props
Its the transmission that has to be level not so much the car. P ut level on pan bolts and adjust level of car.
@@AS-tt8ui if the car is leveled, the pan is leveled. You can’t be serious about what you just said. The pans are leveled if the car is leveled...
Very useful video.Thank you sir
Really good vid thanks!
I got my answer in the last part of your video
Extremely helpful 🤩🤩. Thank you very much 👍👍
Glad it helped!
Nicely done ✅
Thanks buddy. A Lot of information.
You're welcome. 👍
Great information, very informative
I am suscribed now!!!!!!!
Side note. Always take the fill bolt off first. In the event you mess up your drain bolt.
Hi just want to thank you for your video. It was thorough, step-by-step, well explained really appreciate it!!
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful, thanks
You're welcome!
Right next to that fill plug 24 mm is the speed sensor, on the other side of the sensor there is another plug that holds the transmission wires coming from inside the tank. Next to that is a another plastic plug that you can use to refill as well. Just get plyers and wiggle it up and use a tube and you can refill the transmission. It's how I've been doing mine for years. It's easier in my opinion.
Good video. Subbed. Good straight to the point video and edited well and no music etc.
Thank you!
VERY GOOD VIDEO !!!!!! IT LOOKS VERY CLEAR AS ICE THANKS SO MUCH
Glad you liked it! Thanks
what model is the digital scale that was used in you video ? i will appreciate the info thank so much!!!i I subscribed !!!
@@jorgevasquez-lz4be Good question! Here's my amazon affiliate link to a better scale than that: amzn.to/2KkJc7S and if you want exactly the one I have, it's here: amzn.to/3qUemDF .
thank you so much!!!!!!!!!! no wonder you have such a good views!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good video, and thanks for sharing this... I subscribed!
Thanks!
@@CleverFix I have a 2012 Nissan Sentra it's at 80k miles never been changed do you think it would be safe to change it or its to late ?
@@M447DT Not too late at all. Is it driving ok? If it drives good, then it's fine, and changing the oil will just ensure that you won't have problems later on.
@@CleverFix it drives good no slipping or grinding yet. Thanks for your reply 👍
This is also applicable to the 20-22 Corolla L, LE & XLE as they have the same K313 transmission as the 14-19 Corolla. Also the engine is the same though it's the Valvematic version from 14-19 LE Eco. Thanks for the video.
Wt hell awesome 👍👍👍
Veery good video thank you
Thank you!
I spent a couple weeks collecting the tools I'd need to do a fluid drain and fill on my 2015 Corolla. My one bit of advice is to do it when the transmission is unquestionably cold. Get the car into a level spot and leave it there, then do the drain and fill in the morning. That will greatly reduce the chances of under filling the transmission.
I think you could just leave the drain bolt out after draining the old fluid and while adding the new fluid, you will be able to see when basically full. Then do the warmup procedure, since the fluid expands while warming, more will come out. Then you don't have to rush to try get the bolt out before it gets too hot.
I'm following the Toyota Service Manual in the steps I did. Keep in mind that when the car is started, after adding the fresh fluid, it is "sucked up" into the transmission and begins circulating. So if a lot of fresh fluid is added, and there's no drain bolt, it will go up past the straw, and come out.
Some people have reported that a lot more came out by leaving it draining overnight.
nyc vid. thanks
Thanks, Glad you liked it.
Thanks for your hard work documenting this.
My 2014 Corolla is about to turn 90,000km so treated it to a oil change.
Just did today and seemed pretty straight forward.
This is not an oil change , this is a transmission fluid change. He should be changing the filter too for a proper fluid change
@@ThatR3Dude It also depends on how many miles the engine has run; as he states in the video.
I did the same except fluid check. Just drained the cold fluid, measured, and then filled the new fluid with the same quantity. I did that on 60,000km and it is now almost 80,000km and working fine. Right after change and onwards, it felt much better (felt little slippery before change).
So you didn’t do the pin thingy in obd2 scanner area? Thinking about doing it cold as well and simply adding what I removed
@@ericozeta9997 That's alls you need to do.
How is you transmission working, I'm in the process of doing this but I'm debating on measuring the oil cold and do a level check or skipping the level process
That is what I going to do. Drain and Fill because I am not able to level my car and don't have those temperature check tools or software. Based on most internet information, it should only drain out about 2 quarts and I am going to measure and put back 2 quarts every 10,000 miles.
That assumes there was a correct amount of fluid inside the transmission before draining.
This video is fascinating.. thanks for making it!
Glad you liked it 👍👍
I have a 2014 corolla s CVT trans daily driven ... and at 78k miles my tranny magents where full of sludge.... and filter was pretty saturated with material.... this is for reference for anyone who wants to change the filter. I would recommend it.
Disculpe amigo yo tengo un toyota corola 2014 automático sera que le podría hechar aceite motul ATF?
Make sure you can break that fill bolt loose before doing this procedure!!!
Otherwise you’ll have to tow your car to a mechanic if you find out you can’t after draining the fluid...
This has been mentioned before, so apparently it happens quite a lot. I recommend in impact wrench if you're having trouble removing it, and of course make absolutely sure it's set to unscrew and not screw, it should take it out very easily.
Like remove the bolt completely and then start the drain?
Good looking out, glad I came here before starting
That fluid still looks good and pink
It wasn't too bad, but looks can be deceiving. I recently did 3 changes in a row for a total of about 6 quarts, since the car is now 10 years old. The difference is very noticeable, and the old fluid did not look terrible, it looked purple though. Not black yet, but not red also. It also did not have much smell to it. The new fluid smells a lot, the old one had hardly any smell. The engagement between the engine and wheels feels much better after the change, it felt like it was slipping more before, and the RPM would go up a bit higher on acceleration with the old fluid. It feels smoother as well overall, nearly same as new.
Before i drained my fluid, i made sure the fill hole bolt can be removed and can be put back in with no problems. As for the question, just put back what your car put out, but still do the fluid level check. Thats very important. Also repeat this in a couple of thousand miles or so about 3 times to get all the old fluid out.
Solid advice.
I just did my 2015 Corolla CVT. I removed the pan and put in a new filter(strainer). I got 5 quarts out(4.75 liters). I got that when removing the filter and also letting it drip for an hour. That means you need 6 quarts. You replace the 5 quarts and add half of the 6th quart then the draining of excess fluid using the fluid temperature controlled method. See other videos on here for that. Did this at 130K after just buying the car. No problems after days of driving. Manual states 7.9 quart tranny capacity so I replaced more than half.
So you took off the whole drain pan?
Impressive.
@@evan937 yes, but I won’t do that again. The strainer was clear.
Where did you get the gasket and filter? I have a 2015 also.
@@arnoldarnold1034 The dealer. I have a local dealer with reasonable prices if you order off their site then I pick it up in person. I think Beck Arnley was the only aftermarket company carrying the correct one.
Tip: remove the fill plug BEFORE you drain the transmission fluid. Nothing worse than not being able to open it up after draining everything out.
True, but if you have the right tools it should be fairly easy. Use a vacuum tube on top of a wrench or something like that to get leverage if you don't have an impact gun. Any longer wrench will work, but a short wrench will be very difficult as you mention.
The reason to remove the drain before the fill is because more oil will come out while it's on the ground, and to get to the fill bolt the car has to be raised.
But I do agree with, people should be prepared to have the right tools to remove the fill bolt because it can be difficult sometimes.
Great tip for best process to avoid costly mistake.
The fluid was clean.
Was it though
Looks like it had about 35-45% of life left.
Hell even if it was clean, it’s mainly an informational video so people know what to do when changing their cvt fluid
Always better to change it before it gets dirty. Dirty fluid = unhappy transmission
Alrighty. Letting a pro handle this one.
Yep lol getting this done at the dealership
I might do it at the dealership because i have no time. Only thing i dont like about the dealership is that they take too long. You can be there all day.
@@jaycris1980 yep also they charge big price and try to find problem Everywhere
@@sesebas127 i mean would you rather pay 500$ now or 2k$ later with the knowledge that your car is safe to drive
It’s as easy as an oil xhange
Great videos brother. Can you do a fuel filter change? Big fan!
Thanks. There's no fuel filter on this car. There's a sediment trap in the fuel tank for bigger sediment, but not recommended to replace.
I’ve read, and from experience, don’t use impact on wheel locks. Snaps locks
That's a good point. I'm just placing them on lightly, but I always torque with a torque wrench by hand at the end, to get even torque. Many mechanic shops don't do it, and the locks have survived, but it's always a good idea to do the final torque by hand with a torque wrench. Some shops have started doing that, like Costco.
This's a good video. It's good to fill and drain 25% of the total fluid. Can you tell me if I need to change my drain plug washer (gasket)?
It is recommended to change the drain plug washer in the manual yes..
This video is amazingly detailed. Thank you very much! I was wondering if you really have to remove the front wheel to get access to the fill plug? Can you you just turn the wheel fully to the left to open up the space and access it? Thanks again.
It's very difficult to remove the screws for the plastic cover with the wheel on. I'd rather remove the wheel than struggle around it, but it would surely have been nice we didn't have to take the wheel off.
@WhiteBlurr ST Repeat the procedure in the video 3 times. There's no other way unless you have special equipment. As much as I love Amsoil and Redline especially, I wouldn't use anything other than the Toyota fluid on this car.. not to say it won't work because I don't know for sure, but what I know for sure is that the Toyota fluid does work and people are going 200-300K Miles on it without a single change, so I wouldn't risk it. I've used Redline in the past and worked better than OEM,.. but still wouldn't try it. If you check the Redline site they also recommend Non-Slip CVT Redline fluid as being OK for the Corolla K313.. This fluid is very specific as far as I know, so a more generic fluid made for more transmission models will not be quite the same.
Some of the 'multi vehicle' CVT fluids state they meet both TC and FE specifications, which I can't see is possible.
This is a great tutorial. However, my one issue is that you didn't remove the fill plug before the drain plug. This may seem insignificant until you experience not being able to remove the fill plug.
I know it can be hard to remove, but there's always a way to remove it if you have the right tools.. I'll keep that in mind for other videos.
woah man how’d you get that gauge sweep? looks sick
thanks
\
I recently did this on my 2015 Yaris here in the UK, i did the same procedure,but saw these tips on another channel. On my Yaris,there was no need to remove the wheel,as there was enough room from inside the engine bay to remove the fill plug,which was 22mm. I got the genuine Toyota FE,which cost £42 for 5L, 2.2L came out & i used 2.3L to fill it,just a little came out,so i know it's spot on. I got 2.2L left & shall do another drain & fill in 2 years time.My drain straw was yellow in colour btw, seen other colours of course,they there other models from over the pond. Just some info for anyone out there,especially in Europe. Knowledge is useful,so do pass on. Thanks for sharing.
This is fantastic! Thank you so much for talking about each step in details. I want to double check with you a few things:
1. What is the purpose of shifting between D and N 3 times? Is it for entering the “temperature measurement mode” so that we can use if the D is solid to know if the temperature is correct?
2. Did you leave the shift in D when you go down the car to remove the drain? Can we shift it back to P to make the process safer?
3. When you say the temp is too high (ie the D is flashing) you mean it is too high to calibrate the fluid level. It wont cause damage to the transmission, right? I am a little afraid of making the temp too high and cause damage.
Thank you!
1) Yes it's to enter temperature measurement mode.
2) MUST Switch to P after the "mode" is entered, otherwise the car will move in D.
3) Yes too High to open the drain bolt. If the bolt is removed at that temperature, more fluid will come out than should be taken out.
There is one more step that should be done, although it probably makes little difference,.. After "temperature mode" is entered, the "jumper" on the OBD port should be removed. See the full procedure here, the whole video is based on this, hope this helps: www.toyotanation.com/attachments/2014-16-transmission-cvt-fluid-change-corolla-k313-pdf.217610/
Thank you for this video
My 2018 Corolla hit 31000 miles
When to change cvt oil ?
No one knows precisely, but a lot of people say 60k is adequate.
I going to be using a scan gauge to read the temperature of the transmission fluid. I going to diy on my 2015 corolla and this video helps a lot. I be changing out the filter. Do happen to know the torque for the bolts that are on the pan?
Yes it's 5.7ft lbs, 69 inch pounds. See: pasteboard.co/J2WLrTb.png Make sure to alternate between bolts, don't tighten all 16 of them in a circle, left/right/up/down.. The manual doesn't specify an order actually, but for other cars I've seen it specified when re-installing oil pans.
Hi! Very useful! Why didn't you replace the filter? How many kilometers does the filter change?
I'd change filter around 200K Miles. It's not specified anywhere when to change it, but generally this filter is quite coarse so it doesn't clog up, and the magnets hold the big particles.
Bummer on my kid's 2016 Corolla, I found out this evening from a receipt of my long time mechanic shop that they used a wrong type of fluid , WS type fluid 4 quart of it at $15 each so $60, instead of FE CVT, and ( also replaced with a new transmission filter).
I will call first thing in the morning, and hopefully, they will take care of it smoothly. It probably involve removing the new filter and refill with correct FE CVT type fluid. Base on what I know, WS fluid can ruin CVT transmission if one keep driving.
So folks please make sure to ask a lot of questions and don't assume of what they will do. Of course, this is an honest mistake or easy to make mistake since we have been doing business for years.
Wow, hope you got that figured out, it's not good to use the wrong fluid.
As you know that we cannot change all the available fluid, but we only change about a quarter of the quantity, and the question is how often should the gear oil be changed after the first time and what is the appropriate period between each change to ensure that we have changed all the oil?
One small detail: once the fluid temperature detection mode is activated you are supposed to disconnect terminals 4 and 13. This will activate engine idle speed control mode. Without it engine RPM fluctuations may skew fluid level adjustment. Otherwise, very good tutorial.
Interesting, thanks for mentioning that, yes the manual does say to remove the wire after entering the mode. However, I did specifically monitor the idle speed and it held very steady even with the wire in there. I tried one time without entering the mode at all, just by measuring the oil temperature with a IR Temp Gauge, and the RPM indeed was higher than it should be, it was around 900 because the car was still warming up. I think the proper fluid adjustment RPM should be what it idles around normally, which is 750-800.
@@CleverFix good comment about removing the wire or pin. The AT fluid check mode locks the vehicle RPM at 800. This will occur at 35C. This is to meet the length of the tube for calibration.
Gives consistent pump pressure.
One other tip. The cooling fan will come on at 40C on the corolla in AT fluid check mode.
This doesn't apply for all Toyota's
All this rambling I don't know how different the final ml amount would differ. 😁. Good job with your video.
@@davedave2109 I guess it all depends on the outside temperature.. How will the engine run at 800RPM if it's close to freezing is my question. or perhaps it will adjust to 800 once it warms up enough.. I'm not sure, but it seems this adjustment is best done when it's a good amount above freezing.
@@CleverFix the wires you put in the plug and the shifter sequence you went through puts the vehicle In to " AT fluid " mode. Part of this mode is setting the RPM to. Specific RPM 800 in the case of corolla.
The little tube inside for the drain is calibrated based on fluid temp. and RPM.
Of course if you are doing this outside it in colder weather this will take a long time.
There is a specific procedure for this in the service manual.👍
@@CleverFix I like your video. It's to the point and beautifully edited.
What manual your are talking about and where can I get it?
Thanks
That was probably the best CVT transmission fluid change I’ve ever seen and it was very thorough so kudos to you
I’ve had nothing but problems I tried to get my transmission fluid changed no one would even touch it I’m at 380,000 miles and my torque converter is failing it takes me a very long time to warm my car up but it is still moving. I took it to a transmission shop in a pull the plug the first one anyway not the straw and there were black chunks in it like sludge basically
So now I need to replace the transmission and I’ve been living in my car for six years I cannot tell you how many times I tried to service this transmission was lied to by the dealership and even transmission shops that said it’s not serviceable
For someone in my situation this is devastation because it could’ve been prevented. So a good friend of mine is actually put out a go fund me which isn’t getting any traction at all in order for me to be able to replace the transmission or I’m going to wither in this Walmart parking lot. Which I’ve already seen too much Of, six years is a long time
I rely on my car to take my showers at the truckstop go to the laundromat be able to feed myself and get my supplements to tend to my house because I do have two existing conditions so stress just exacerbates it. Hopefully you’ll be kind enough to allow me to post my go fund me here and possibly some of your viewers will find in their heart knowing to donate something small but maybe even re-post it
I still need to replace a motor mount my left axle oh my struts are shot
It just seems like it’s one thing after the other but I really believe in the kindness and compassion and humanity and I know it’s a struggle for people to stretch themselves but I do believe that can be done otherwise I’m going to be in huge trouble but yeah this was a fantastic video and I enjoy learning things so I appreciate it very much
gofund.me/807a1709
380,000miles is quite amazing, I guess you never changed the CVT fluid? You can usually find used transmissions for much less than normal at an auto wrecker, sometimes even $500, have you tried searching? There is a site www.car-part.com where you can find wreckers that have your part close by. I can try to help you locate one if you need help, I'd just need the city you're close to.
@@CleverFix Thank you I really appreciate you
I’m in Indian Trail North Carolina so I’m close to Monroe Matthews and further out from Charlotte the travel is am I gonna have a hard time having somebody put it in if I buy the transmission? I noticed mechanics are very funny about stuff like that because a lot of them make money off of selling you the parts and they get it for a discount so if you’re not willing to do that I can create an issue
I actually just fired my mechanic because he refused to return my calls he was angry with me I didn’t say anything he wanted to buy my axle and he wanted to overcharge me by about $30 grand scheme of thing that doesn’t seem like a lot of money but when you’re living in your car and you’re scraping bye you’re not trying to just hand money away or throw it out the window
He got an attitude and decided not to return any of my calls so I told him I wouldn’t be using him anymore and that was that
To answer your question I tried really really hard to have my oil changed no one and I swear nobody no matter how many people I talk to would even come near my car with a 10 foot pole and the only thing I could figure out was that this particular transmission requires you to buy the FE transmission fluid directly from Toyota it’s a closed system as you probably already know.
I don’t really think it would be smart to mess around and get some other type of oil that catches my feelin
I even scheduled my car for transmission service at the dealership and they consulted with me and said it wouldn’t be a wise decision because blah blah blah that really what they weren’t telling me was that I need almost 2 gallons because it’s almost 8 quarts at 7.9 quarts and they charge $300 per gallon claiming it comes directly from Japan therefore that was the real reason they couldn’t charge me $1000 to service my transmission or better because the other transmission services were only about $150 so they made up excuses and told me lies and that’s how we got to this position
And I didn’t just try one dealership locally I tried quite a few
Well if you think 380,000 miles is impressive I am currently at 391,247 miles
But I really want to say thank you for putting this video out because his gave me a little peace of mind knowing that my intuition was correct and that it can be done and possibly can help someone else in a similar position did the one I was in
@@elnosworld9893 That's really crazy.. you could try to complain to Toyota USA.. although I doubt they help much.. I have had issues here with outrageous prices and complained to Toyota Canada, only for them to tell me "sorry". I never made a video about it, but I was thinking to. They charge $550 for the splash guard under the gas tank, it's just a thin piece of metal, not stainless steel, so it rusted out fast.. But to say it's $300/gallon for that transmission fluid is completely absurd if that's what they're telling you, because It is NOT.. You can buy more than a gallon here www.ebay.ca/itm/183551298036?epid=662869311 for $100 . The dealers here in Canada used to sell it for even less than that, but I haven't checked recently.
The wrecker can likely find you a mechanic nearby. I'd talk to them first.
There is one for around $800 at Matlock and another for $400 at Kannapolis, but the $400 looks pretty bad to me, although if they're selling it, hopefully it works!
See the links for the donor cars:
imageappky.car-part.com/image?seller=1176&partsourceid=1004&partGUID=1004-oh40-342980&vehicleGUID=1004-oh40-V00005320&display=2014 Toyota Corolla Transmission Assembly-Stock%23 00005320
imageappky.car-part.com/image?seller=7812&partsourceid=7812&partGUID=D3204D46-22B7-40F1-A4E2-C84307958B5F&vehicleGUID=53125C16-3611-4AE4-A4DA-38830A8818B6&display=2014 Toyota Corolla Transmission Assembly-Stock%23 220135
First One is Matlock Used parts(704-278-2258 / 800-428-0335), and second one for $400 is Kannapolis Used parts (704-932-0425)
$400 would be great if that transmission is in usable condition. I'd assume putting it in would be quite a bit though, if you find a fair mechanic maybe they'd do it for $400? I'm sure not sure.. I would just do it myself, but I know it would take quite a few hours, it would probably take me 6 hours.. driveshafts have to come off and everything.
The transmission looked pretty clean and solid to me. Is it even recommended to change it? I'm at 65,000 miles. 2017 Toyota Corolla SE
2017 is still pretty young. There are no hard rules that say when to change it, and there is NO rule that says to never change it or that it's lifetime. It is not lifetime fluid. You could go another 35,000 miles or 3 years if it's not being driven hard, but you always have to take into account weather and hard driving. Extreme heat, cold, or driving as a taxi with frequent traffic will require more frequent service.
2014 Corolla thank you for the in-depth reply! I might change it by 100k. I live in Los Angeles County. Drive it slow due to it being a slow car lol. Appreciate the info!
@@bobespnza-la7030 Toyota told me it's recommended every 60k but generally most ppl wait until around 80k with no issues however going over 100k you could run into problems.
I"m going over 100k.
My rule is if there is an oil wether it's. Regular engine oil, transfer case, transmission, or a differential. They should be changed to maintain and keep it "healthy". I've heard never change them, to you should every 60k but Toyota transmissions are amazing you could wait if you wanted. I like to go off of what the book says about changing fluids. I changed my transmission fluid at 240k and my truck still drives nice. No slips or anything.
I have a 2017 Corolla SE, and I couldn't get the D shifter indicator to go away after following your instructions to get into the fluid check. My digital screen looks different then yours but I wouldn't think that would be a problem. I ended up just filling my trans until it started coming out of the drain bolt. Is there a difference from the older(2014) to newer models or is it user error?
How did you learn that connecting pin 4 and 13 gives you the indication as to the correct fluid temp? Could you not just drain and re-fill based on fluid quantity with both fluids cold?
I just followed the manual, this is the drain & refill procedure given from Toyota. Yes you can do it based on quantity if you're sure the transmission was already filled properly to begin with.
Hey man! Thanks for the vid. The only issue I had was I couldn't get my D indicator to dissappear. I followed it step by step but it wouldn't go away. I just let it warm up a bit then removed the fill plug. Do you think that's okay? I figure that's much better than not doing the level check at all. Let me know thanks!
Well, if the car is warmed up too much and the fill plug is removed, then too much oil will come out. Higher temperature makes the fluid expand. So it really depends how warm the fluid was. A Infrared temperature gauge can be pointed at the oil pan to get an idea of the fluid temperature but it won't be perfectly accurate because the pan is not same temperature as the oil. When switching from D to N it has to be switched quickly, if not quickly enough then it won't work.. not sure if that was the problem but I think that's typically it..
Only 1/4 of fluid is new so how often you have to change the fluid to keep the transmission in good shape
I would think Toyota has a specific amount of transmission fluid needed to fill it up rather then a weigh and guess method. But thank you for the tutorial, good information.
In the manual they just say to add 1.2L after draining it and then do the adjustment procedure, but I measured it just in case it's more.. the rest of the procedure is from the manual, I didn't make it up.
The plastic insert on the bottom of the pan is a dipstick. Measured at the correct temp, the dipstick will ensure there is adequate oil in the pan, and the excess will drain out.
Automatic transmission gearbox in Toyota Corolla 2011 model in total oil top up do you should liter,s oil please reply sir
Every when do you have to change the fluid
Sorry I couldn't reply to your earlier comment on your previous video. Yes it requires 6 mm LN key bit.
Yes I fixed it, thanks!
Since one drain and fill only flushes 1/4 of the fluid, is it recommended to repeat these steps any additional times after letting the transmission cool again? Or is only replacing 1/4 of the fluid considered valid maintenance?
Replacing 1/4 of the fluid improves the fluid's lubrication properties, and removes 1/4 of the contaminants floating in the fluid. That may not be enough if the fluid is in a really bad state, very old and high mileage. I am aiming for one change every 3 years myself, I think for my car that's enough, but Toyota doesn't recommend any interval, so everyone has to decide by themselves. An oil analysis can be done at a lab if you're really curious about the state of the fluid and whether it needs to be changed or not, but a little bit has to be drained out, and it costs quite a bit.
Can you put a link for the funnel and the hose
I added it in the video description.
Thanks for this video. My corolla transmission had some leak and now I am trying to inject some fluid inside transmission to compensate for the fluid leak. Any idea how should I measure how much fluid I need to add?
I'm guessing you fixed this by now.. I would just do the procedure in the video, including the drain part. That way you replace some fluid too. You can just top up but like you said, it will be hard to know how much to add, and you're missing out on the benefit of replacing some of the fluid.
@@CleverFix the video shows to remove specific volume (or weight) of transmission fluid HOWEVER if I don’t know how much fluid is leaked, can I add all the way to make the add fluid completely full of fluid?
Otherwise I don’t know how much extra fluid I need to add to make sure the car is going to function properly?
How often should this be done? How many miles?
Nice job, but how I flush the transmission for replace 100% of the fluid?
Ask the dealer, you need a machine for a flush, it's not practical to do that at home.
Did you consider the additional weight of fragments in the oil adding to the weight
Yes, it doesn't make any difference.
Hello, what a good video, would you be so kind as to help me :) ... I have a Toyota Auris 2015 1.6 with a CVT box. Is it advisable to change the transmission fluid anyway? I would greatly appreciate your response! :)
when you first drain what does temp have to be? When you jump wires and the D indacaterlight up does any fans kick on? if so would that be safer then jumping wires?
Drain and fill happens with the engine off, it doesn't matter what the temperature is. Once re-filled with the same amount that came out or a little more, the car is started and warmed up, then the drain bolt is removed at a certain temperature for a few seconds to drain out the excess if any.
Is the method same for Toyota Yaris using CVT FE Fluid?
When to change cvt fluid?
How many qts for a low mile used trans coming from Japan for 2016 Corolla S ?
Did you change the filter? If no after how many miles do you advise changing it. Since the manual owner doesn't specify.
Thank you.
No I didn't change it. The dealer said they have not done a single one, EVER! I wanted to buy the part, no stock. Maybe 100k-120k miles I'd do it. Nobody really knows the proper answer to this.. pick what you feel safe with.
@@CleverFix I"m looking at doing my 2015 corolla. I found the filter online for 40.28 at a dealership that will ship but you really have to get under the car, remove the pan and gasket and all that. If toyota hasn't replaced a transmission filter yet then I guess I will just replace the fluid like you demonstrated.
@@joshharper1906 Yeah basically the dealer said in these exact words "don't touch it" .. although I have done filters before and I never had a leak, those bolts easily strip, and improper cleaning of surfaces can cause a leak also. I used a click-type torque wrench and some got stripped one time.. Ended up using helicoils for fix the threads.. it was a pain. Sometimes hand tightening may be better unless you have a very accurate electronic torque wrench.. that's the only way I'd do it if I had to.
All the oil must be drained not half 2 magnets need to be cleaned and all the oil replaced not half take pan of and clean
With the pan gasket is leaking should be temperature check ( this car looks like it's leaking) ,,.my is fine i just put in the same take out no temperature check
If by "this car" you mean the car in the video, then that's rust proofing, I've never had a CVT Leak.
What is the procedure to measure the CVT transmission oil level?
Drain into a container,like a car oil 5L bottle you used when you done an engine oil change, or google your car.
Hi. You mentioned a write up from Toyota about this procedure? Did you get this from a service manual?
It's from the service manual and it's posted on this forum: www.toyotanation.com/threads/cvt-drain-fill-using-vacuum-pump.1626166/page-3#post-13809190
@@CleverFix Thanks. I knew I saw that somewhere. A couple more questions: 1) I was looking at those instructions and it says after D is displayed and car in P again, the jumper wire should be removed to avoid fluctuations in engine speed before proceeding to the fluid check. I didn't see that you did that in the video, but another video did. Can you clarify? 2) do you know if during the cycling between D and N in the diagnostics mode, that the transmission is active? In other words, to do this job, one would have to have the left front wheel removed and that side on a jack stand. If for some reason someone removed their foot from the brake during the cycling, would the front wheel actually rotate when cycled into D? 3) How does the volume drained compare to the entire volume in the system? In other words, once this drain and refill is done, that means perhaps half is changed out? Finally, I really appreciate the thorough, careful and detailed approach you took to this including actually weighing the amount that you drained and carefully replacing it with the same amount, plus a bit more, and then that excess actually drained out during the fluid check. And the bonus is unlike other youtube channels, you actually respond to questions! Are you a mechanic or just a skilled DIY'er? Well done.
@@mountainbiker4450 Yes the jumper should be removed as you mention, I missed this step but the RPM was still steady and everything was good, but I'm guessing if this is done when it's very cold out, the RPM may rev up a little too high.
Yes, the transmission works and is active just as it usually is when shifting to drive. I have the car fully on the ground when shifting, and I wouldn't shift to D with the car lifted. The car should be on a level surface for the "check level" procedure, so it doesn't make sense to have it lifted, and I could still reach the plug even with the car on the ground.
The drain & fill doesn't change even half, the total is 8 quarts, so replacing about 2 quarts is 25%. The old fluid dilutes the new, so it's impossible to get a 100% change even by changing it 4 times. I found one change is enough for me though. I do it every 2-3 years.. it refreshes the fluid, and the car shifts noticeably a little better. Also when the old fluid comes out it doesn't look very bad. Oil has antioxidants and additives in it, so even a small amount of fluid compared to the total helps to keep it protecting.
No I'm not a mechanic, I just had a lot of problems with my previous cars. One time I had to replace an engine, on an AWD car, That took about 12 hours. The Corolla is a great car for servicing.. great design, and as long as it's maintained properly, the parts are high quality and last a loooong time. I should've bought a Corolla from the start, but then I wouldn't have learned much 😄
CleverFix, where or how can I obtain a repair manual for my ‘21 Corolla LE? Thank you for the video!
There is probably only one place, techinfo.toyota.com . Places like AllDataDIY, and Hanes likely do not have much for such a new car, but you can ask them. Techinfo is very expensive. If you live in a big city, your library may have a digital subscription to auto repair manuals for free.
can u do a video for changing a fuel filter?
This car doesn't have a fuel filter.
Are you sure. There are a. Lot. Of. Videos that show the changing of the fuel. Filter underneath the rear seats.
Is it not necessary to reset the cvt using a scan tool afterwards ?
There's no 'reset' that I could find that can be done with any scan tools or any other way.. I've done this twice and the car is running great. It's the same amount of fluid, and the computer doesn't track when the fluid needs to be changed, so everything is pretty much same as before after it's done. Thanks for watching!
What happens if you only drain it once instead of 3 times as you suggested because that’s what I did on my 2016 Corolla. This was the first time draining it; the car has 81k miles on it. It only took 2 quarts. Can I wait (if yes, how long?) until I drain it again a couple more times? The reason I ask is because I have to take it back to someone I know with tools because I didn’t replace it myself. Thanks.
I only did it once myself, then a year later again.. I'd prefer every year or two than twice and then nothing for a long time.. but nothing will happen really, there are people that didn't do it for many thousands of miles, like 200K, that's what I've been told anyway, and their car is still working, although I don't recommend that.
Hello. I have a Toyota Auris 2014, I have a problem with the CVT gearbox. When the car is cold, I have no problem. After 15 minutes of walking, the car starts to falter and vibrate and has no power left, and when it cools down, everything is back to normal.
Do you have to do the part where you put the car in diagnostic mode or can you just drain and fill
The diagnostic mode is used to ascertain the temperature of the transmission fluid. If you're going to drain the excess fluid at the end and get the fluid at exactly the right level, the drain has to be done with the transmission at correct temp.
Should be in park gear after D light disappear and wait until the D appears
OP, can you look at the bottle of your CVt fluid and kindly see where the product made from.
Sorry I don't have it any more, check with the dealer.
I can't tell you who makes the Toyota fluid, but....The CVT transmission in the Corolla is manufactured by AISIN. AISIN type FE transmission fluid is available on Rock Auto for about $8 per quart. That's about 1/3 the price of the Toyota branded FE fluid.
2018 toyota corolla doesn't do what you said in video the D never goes out always stays on the temp was 109 with my meter it was hot out I waited over 7 minutes. This is FE Fluid so I did I temp check on pan. Please put in what to do on a 2018 level check?
Hi, I am planning to buy used 2019 model, XLI, 1.6 L , any issue with car ? Is the cvt reliable? I am worried please reply
What type of oil for the transmission
Can you use the FE fluid if car takes the TC fluid?
I wouldn't do it, the fluids are different. My filler plug is stamped FE, so I fill with FE only to make sure I'm using the proper fluid. If it's a K313 transmission, I would only use FE from the dealer.
Did you turn engine off when d went solid and then remove plug or was engine running when you drained the excess
The engine was running when D Went solid, and drain plug was removed to take the excess out. It may seem strange, but that's how it's designed.. that's why it eventually heats up too much and D starts flashing, because the engine runs and warms up the transmission.
@@CleverFix I'm thinking temp stay hot enough if engine were should off when went solid
@@kenhilson786The excess has to be drained with the engine running. The engine spins the transmission and retains the fluid. With the engine off, the fluid will not be retained, and too much will come out.
Transmission fluid gains weight with age, it is a bad idea to measure with grams rather than by volume considering the new fluid Will have a lesser weight despite having the same volume...
Most shavings and metal are trapped by the magnet and the filter. Anything left is microscopic. I've measured dirty oil out of my transmission, and fresh oil of the same volume, and didn't find any difference between the two.. it would be impossible to tell if the oil inside the bottle was dirty or new. You can definitely measure by volume though if you think that's better/easier since a scale is not even needed. I've had this same comment by probably 5 other people,.. Nobody has ever said they've found the old fluid was actually heavier once measured.
@@CleverFix I appreciate your response! I'll be less quick to assume such.
So basically if you over filled it on accident and did the temp check, the excess fluid should come out right? I just did a whole transmission fluid change along with the filter and I currently used up at least 6 liter of fluid. I did the temp check and nothing has dripped out of the drain plug. Guess I still need to put more fluid?
This is why I show how to measure what comes out.. just in case something like this happens.. You must be talking quarts? They're close to liters, but no way you can put in 6!! You sure it's a CVT 2014+ Corolla?? Did you measure what came out?
To answer your question yes, when you do the temp check it should drip out once the drain bolt is removed, and the car has to be Running while removing the bolt..
I was having problems with transmission when I got the car. I did the drain and put the same amount back in technique. The car had sat for about 2 hours before starting service. I drained 3 and a half quarts but I noticed everyone else drained only 2. The old fluid was not that dirty and had no metal or anything. I’m assuming it originally had too much fluid because I drained half a quart and it started giving less problems but it still jerks every now and then. My question is would it be a good idea to drain more or is the transmission on its way out?
Oil can only help so much. It's not advised to drain a random amount, the level procedure has to be done to ensure the proper level. It can be done with IR thermometer aimed at the pan, although not as accurate, to avoid the entire computer procedure. If the level is wrong, it can cause problems for sure, although it sounds like yours is on the way out already.
I can’t get the sequence to start I’m stuck at the flashing lights part