Wow, that was incredible!! Thank you so much for posting this tutorial-I learned so much as a newbie. Your work is fantastic and I hope you will post more videos. Truly inspiring for us rookies..Amazing!!!
it isn't clay, it's play-doh like material called Plasticine; Plasticine comes in a variety of colors, just like play-doh does, and I've mixed differently colored Plasticine, ending up with this greyish material looking so similar to clay.
Hi, may i ask what is the purpose of the temporary ball and 'chin' attached to the beak at 3:58? Is it to maintain the shape of the beak? I'm looking for tips!
These two additional temporary items serve the following purposes: 1)Thanks to the "chin" it's easier to pull the complete cast out of the silicone mold, you're less likely to tear the silicone layer and hence the mold won't get worn out too soon, especially if you want to use it to make a number of casts. You need to predict which part(s) of your complete cast may rip or tear the mold during the process of taking it out. 2) As for the "ball", you need to bear in mind that I cast my items with a mixture of resin and talc without using a vacuum pump, so there's always some air caught up in the resin and with air bubbles invariably moving upwards in the case of this particular cast the air bubbles mass in the "ball", which I will later simply cut off without leaving a trace on the beak. I hope that you'll find my answer helpful.
Thank you for replying. Do you mean after sculpting one model, you can make replica with silicone? Is that what you're doing at the last part of the video? WOW!
Blowups are caused by trapped air expanding within the sculpture, or expanding steam from trapped moisture deep within the sculpt. To prevent this, you must hollow the sculpt and allow it to completely dry as follows. After you are done with the general shaping/blocking out, and while the sculpture is still fairly moist, carefully cut the sculpture in half using a wire tool. Then, using loop tools, carefully hollow the two halves until the walls are about 1/4” thick. Score the edges of each side, paint the edges with clay slip (clay mixed with water to the consistency of heavy cream), then press the halves back together, smoothing the joint, blending away the seam, and compressing firmly. Finish final details and surface texture. Use a needle tool or toothpick to create a hole through the wall into the interior hollow area in an inconspicuous place. This allows expanding air to escape from the hollow interior during firing in the kiln. Wrap the finished sculpture loosely with a dry cleaners plastic bag, and allow it to slowly dry for a week or so. Fast or uneven drying can cause the sculpt to crack. When it is completely bone dry and no longer feels cool to the touch, it can be fired without blowing up.
Gorgeous work! Thank you for not putting on awful music the whole time. I can’t stand those vids. ;)
Wow, that was incredible!! Thank you so much for posting this tutorial-I learned so much as a newbie. Your work is fantastic and I hope you will post more videos. Truly inspiring for us rookies..Amazing!!!
Thanks for such kind words! I'm really glad you've found this video inspiring. Cheers!
Very good
i like it , do you sell your sculptures?
i like that, very interesting... do you sell them?
Which kind of clay you have use????
it isn't clay, it's play-doh like material called Plasticine; Plasticine comes in a variety of colors, just like play-doh does, and I've mixed differently colored Plasticine, ending up with this greyish material looking so similar to clay.
beautiful
Hello! your sculpture is beautiful ... I challenge you to do a burrowing owl
Thank you Esteban. I will keep that in mind.
i like it, do you sell your sculptures?
+paul hoye
I'm glad you like it. Yes, you can buy them - if you're interested, please contact me at my email address modelbirdmaker@gmail.com
Finally a tutorial of how to make a really good bird out of clay! Very rare find. And that is an amazing bird you sculpted, very talented! 😁
Thank you ☺
Hi, may i ask what is the purpose of the temporary ball and 'chin' attached to the beak at 3:58? Is it to maintain the shape of the beak? I'm looking for tips!
These two additional temporary items serve the following purposes:
1)Thanks to the "chin" it's easier to pull the complete cast out of the silicone mold, you're less likely to tear the silicone layer and hence the mold won't get worn out too soon, especially if you want to use it to make a number of casts. You need to predict which part(s) of your complete cast may rip or tear the mold during the process of taking it out.
2) As for the "ball", you need to bear in mind that I cast my items with a mixture of resin and talc without using a vacuum pump, so there's always some air caught up in the resin and with air bubbles invariably moving upwards in the case of this particular cast the air bubbles mass in the "ball", which I will later simply cut off without leaving a trace on the beak.
I hope that you'll find my answer helpful.
Thank you for replying. Do you mean after sculpting one model, you can make replica with silicone?
Is that what you're doing at the last part of the video? WOW!
That's right, it's not only about sculpting a bird but also about making a silicone mold and then casting figurines i.e. replicas.
Melvy
Please make a green parrot
たぬきを作ってほしいです
Good
Gran trabajo ! Saludos desde perú
I’m trying to make one but I fear it will blowup in the kiln any tips to prevent that?
Jose, I'm not an expert in ceramics, I design and hand cast using resin, so though I wish I could offer you some advice, unfortunately I can't.
Blowups are caused by trapped air expanding within the sculpture, or expanding steam from trapped moisture deep within the sculpt. To prevent this, you must hollow the sculpt and allow it to completely dry as follows. After you are done with the general shaping/blocking out, and while the sculpture is still fairly moist, carefully cut the sculpture in half using a wire tool. Then, using loop tools, carefully hollow the two halves until the walls are about 1/4” thick. Score the edges of each side, paint the edges with clay slip (clay mixed with water to the consistency of heavy cream), then press the halves back together, smoothing the joint, blending away the seam, and compressing firmly. Finish final details and surface texture. Use a needle tool or toothpick to create a hole through the wall into the interior hollow area in an inconspicuous place. This allows expanding air to escape from the hollow interior during firing in the kiln. Wrap the finished sculpture loosely with a dry cleaners plastic bag, and allow it to slowly dry for a week or so. Fast or uneven drying can cause the sculpt to crack. When it is completely bone dry and no longer feels cool to the touch, it can be fired without blowing up.
super, so echt
Besten Dank