Just came by an RT3 in basement of old theater being demolished. Contractor was about to take it to the dump. Owner called me, took a look and had it hauled off to my house. Tech says about north if 10 grand to restore plus new Leslies. What the Hell, why not? Going to put it in the clubhouse of the golf club. They are already organizing a concert by guess who. Oh well, nice tax write off.
I know exactly what you mean about relays and bouncing. I do a lot of electronic control of props for Halloween and bounce is a killer. If you get a lot of relay chatter due to bounce you can get erratic behavior. The simplest way I'd handle to debounce the relays are with some capacitors to make them smooth out the switch closures from your toe studs switches to the relay coils... a cap that gives you a .250 ms or so delay between presses that way you don't get multiple clicks. Also I like the idea of having socketed relays, they have their pros and cons. Pros is that they're easy to swap out if they fail; Cons if they come loose in the sockets when transporting your rig. Some Relays have wire bails that hold the relay in the socket so it can't come loose... if you can get them that would be ideal. A soldered relay will be reliable connection-wise but not easy to swap out. If I knew the electronics in the Roland/BOSS operated it might be easier to wire a transistor to invert the signal so that you could get the functionality without relays. My guess is that the buttons on the Roland/BOSS connect to ground with a weak pullup resistor. I'd have a common ground in the circuit, a battery, a common switching transistor like 2N2222 or 2N3904, etc., and a couple of resistors and a cap. The transistor is wired Emitter to ground, and Collector tied to the input of the equipment. The Transistor's base biased on via a resistor so the current is passing through the transistor pulling the line low thus emulating a N.C. switch. When you press the toe stud it grounds the base of the transistor and it will open the circuit. Good luck with your rig, if you'd like to discuss further you can find my gmail email on my channel "about" and I'd be happy to correspond with you on brainstorming a solution.
@@TonyImperatrice You're welcome, I hoped I could help out a little. I know you didn't ask for any advice because you might get a lot of unworkable solutions, but I assure you, I've done this before and even used opto-isolators, yet another approach to making this work. Anyway, I know you can figure something out. Again I wish you the best, and congrats on getting the grant. That's wonderful.
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Just came by an RT3 in basement of old theater being demolished. Contractor was about to take it to the dump. Owner called me, took a look and had it hauled off to my house. Tech says about north if 10 grand to restore plus new Leslies. What the Hell, why not? Going to put it in the clubhouse of the golf club. They are already organizing a concert by guess who. Oh well, nice tax write off.
I know exactly what you mean about relays and bouncing. I do a lot of electronic control of props for Halloween and bounce is a killer. If you get a lot of relay chatter due to bounce you can get erratic behavior. The simplest way I'd handle to debounce the relays are with some capacitors to make them smooth out the switch closures from your toe studs switches to the relay coils... a cap that gives you a .250 ms or so delay between presses that way you don't get multiple clicks.
Also I like the idea of having socketed relays, they have their pros and cons. Pros is that they're easy to swap out if they fail; Cons if they come loose in the sockets when transporting your rig. Some Relays have wire bails that hold the relay in the socket so it can't come loose... if you can get them that would be ideal. A soldered relay will be reliable connection-wise but not easy to swap out.
If I knew the electronics in the Roland/BOSS operated it might be easier to wire a transistor to invert the signal so that you could get the functionality without relays. My guess is that the buttons on the Roland/BOSS connect to ground with a weak pullup resistor. I'd have a common ground in the circuit, a battery, a common switching transistor like 2N2222 or 2N3904, etc., and a couple of resistors and a cap. The transistor is wired Emitter to ground, and Collector tied to the input of the equipment. The Transistor's base biased on via a resistor so the current is passing through the transistor pulling the line low thus emulating a N.C. switch. When you press the toe stud it grounds the base of the transistor and it will open the circuit.
Good luck with your rig, if you'd like to discuss further you can find my gmail email on my channel "about" and I'd be happy to correspond with you on brainstorming a solution.
@@raymitchell9736 thanks for the tips.
@@TonyImperatrice You're welcome, I hoped I could help out a little. I know you didn't ask for any advice because you might get a lot of unworkable solutions, but I assure you, I've done this before and even used opto-isolators, yet another approach to making this work. Anyway, I know you can figure something out. Again I wish you the best, and congrats on getting the grant. That's wonderful.