6:05 that brown thing is Eolys/infineum which is used in psa diesels for dpf regeneration. That thing stucks in those tubes and blocks the exhaust gas. We are use using chemicals before washing them with high pressure car wash. During the washing the stucked eolys comes out of the filter like little pellets. This is a 1.6 hdi dpf. Which is easy to disassemble from the car. The chemicals we use are autochem 032 dpf direct cleaner liquid or ammonia solution. Ammonia solution is also used for egr valve and other carbon deposit cleaning.
Years ago with two stroke bike exhausts we used to leave for good long soak in paraffin, then set alight. Once the paraffin had burned out and allowed to cool gentle tapping made all the ash build up simply fall away.
Great experimental setup, just a shame for the carport roof. Normally you would have to simulate the heat during regeneration quite accurately in order to convert the soot into ash. This seems to have been successful in the experiment. Only brown ash was visible in the pot. What destroyed the ceramic was probably too high a temperature (far more than during regeneration) and too different temperatures inside. The diesel particulate filter is designed for much higher temperatures than the "normal" exhaust gas would produce.
Hi Steve Great video. Have you seen the video of how Renault truck DPFs are regenerated? They use an oven at 600°C to free up the soot and ash. First blow with air then cook the blow again.
Hi, overnight in an industrial oven is the standard way way for truck and bus DPFs to be cleaned, so this video was to show that not everything is DIY compatible. If you were wanting to do a home DPF clean, then my other video is still my favorite method: th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
Hmmm.. you are misunderstanding this concept, "burn". The "burn" inside the filter will need oxygen. If you don't put oxygen inside, the sood can't burn or what so ever..
I like and follow your work on this subject I wish you success. So is there a way to clean it without disassembling it on the vehicle? like pouring in through the sensor, injecting vs.
Hi, even with full removal and chemical cleaning, there is still a bunch of inert glassy products that come out at the end of the process with a water back-flush. It is for that reason that I believe an in-place ash clean can never get everything 100% clean. The in-place cleans are a good 'maintenance clean', and will probably extend the life of the filter by at least 2x if they are done every 2 years. I haven't really gone down that path because there is usually some other issue that needs addressing that requires the DPF to be removed (like a turbo issue), so the removal part is already done. I haven't dismissed the idea, and I might do it to a friends car at some stage ;-)
Thanks for showing us your experiment.. Question tho you had no pressure in order for the ash or soot to be forced out . Would I be wrong in saying that ??
Hi, I believe it to be around 800 degrees Celcius / 1500 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 to 8 hours - but I'm sure that there is a lot of variance out there. The main thing with using an industrial oven to remove the soot from a soot blocked DPF is that it has to get over 600 degrees Celcius / 1112 degrees Fahrenheit in order for the carbon to combine with oxygen to form carbon dioxide. After the DPF has cooled down it is usually given a blast with compressed air to blow out any remaining residue.
Hello Steven, I have been watching you DIY videos regarding the DPF filter and they are very informative. On my car the DPF and the Catalytic converter are in the same housing and on one of my friends cars the DPF has a DOC. After some research I found out that the only available chemicals (seemingly fit for the job) in my country are: Pool Ph reducer containing 39-51% citric acid and a phosphoric acid (used in fertilizer industry) containing 81-85% Phosphoric acid and 61% Phosphorus pentoxide. I am not a chemist myself and I do not understand how the ingredients could exceed 100%? Furthermore, do you think that any of the above mentioned chemicals can safely clean the two DPF's?
Hi, thanks for watching my vids! it is a super tricky balance when it comes to cleaning methods that are safe to use on DPFs that have an integrated catalyst/DOC. High pressure water blasting could be done really carefully to not damage the ceramic binder material, but it will definitely blast the platinum right off the Diesel Oxidation Catalyst, so you could only do it where you had good access to the exhaust end of the filter, and only applied the high pressure to that end. Ultrasonic cleaning might be a good option if you get a large enough machine - and I'll be doing some testing on that very soon (I know that some specialist companies already use ultrasonic cleaning on DPFs). Acids are the perfect thing to react and break down ash deposits, but if they are in strong concentrations then they will also (depending on the acid) attack the steel or stainless steel case or attack the materials that make up the catalyst. I go for a 5-7% strength HCl and a 30 minute time limit so any attacks on metals are minimal, but that the ash is still broken down, and I figured that HCl was available in almost all countries as it is commonly used for cleaning brickwork and masonry. Strong acids like you have mentioned are best kept away from the catalyst, and I know from testing that if you dilute phosphoric acid down to 5% then it doesn't dissolve the ash deposits at all - so you can see what I mean about it being a bit tricky... I have received suggestions that diluted nitric or sulfuric acids will work well - but I suspect that they are both impossible to buy in most countries, and so I haven't done any testing on them.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you for the reply. I might be able to get my hands on 13% HCI. I am planning on diluting it 1:1 and repeating the process from one of your videos. BTW this ultrasonic cleaning sounds interesting so I am looking forward to see the results.
I plan to clean the dpf filter by and take another car in tow so that the engine has maximum load and maximum exhaust temperature to blow out all unburned particles.
@@StevenBTuner haha. Ya. Assuming the manifold is not plastic. Idk actually what or how my 08 3.0L grand cherokee diesel manifold looking like. But per some videos I saw I think its cast iron / steel
@@nometalgearr I don't think you understand just how much energy it takes to cook carbon off. Your intake is going to be hydrocarbons (oil) and carbon. In addition it is more than just temperature. Oxygen must be present or nothing will be oxidized.
the only thing i didnt like about this video is the fact that you got the dpf to hot with the torch on the end which could have caused the cracking of the internal ceramic
Hi steve, I've bought a car with a sheered turbo shaft, the shaft inc fan went into dpf and has filled dpf with engine oil what would be my best product to break down the engine oil in dpf filler please.
Hi, you will need to take the DPF off the car. Get some sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) and mix 200 grams in a liter of warm water and then add 50 grams of dishwashing liquid. Give it a good shake. You might need to repeat it a bunch of times before it is fully cleaned, so maybe buy 2 Kgs along with a couple of bottles of dishwashing liquid. Wear gloves and protective glasses as you don't any of that stuff on you!
@@StevenBTunerHi Steven, On your 9 chemicals to clean your DPF video I think you mentioned that you would use dishwasher tablets instead of drain cleaner after you had seen the results. I wonder why you haven’t used the dishwasher product. Have you perhaps discovered a disadvantage? Thanks for making these videos!
Hi, thanks for watching! The channels in the ceramic material are blocked at opposite ends in order to force the exhaust gases through the walls of the filter (DPFs are also called wall-flow filters), which means that you can't push anything all the way through to clear out the soot or ash. Also the fine matrix that catches the soot is microscopic, so can't really be cleaned my any mechanical method unfortunately.
@@StevenBTuner I've been watching your channel since the first video, you are doing a great job. I will definetly try the chemical method when will be the case.
@@joken8901 I think it would have worked a lot better if there was good access to both ends of the ceramic, but most cars have the DPF enclosed with only a pipe going in and out which makes it very difficult to evenly heat it with the gas torch. For the moment I'll be sticking with my 2 stage chemical cleaning method: th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
@@StevenBTuner yes ive watched your chemical cleaning vids they are very well done you are a caring and patient man and dedicate your time and money to show others the best and worst methods to use so the dont get ripped off by the main dealers who are not real mechanics like your self but are fitters 1 off 1 on but dont know how they really work, keep up the fantastic work
The experience in the film is completely pointless. First, burning with a torch is not to get rid of the ash, but just to turn the soot into ash. Secondly, the cracks (if they were not there before), which we do not know, were probably caused by too rapid heating or too rapid cooling. The filter heats up gradually - you have to do everything while thinking about what you are doing, not the madman. It also cools down gradually by reducing the temperature for a long time, and we do not heat up to 900 degrees and we extinguish everything :-) what you expected from it, if not cracks :-) And the ash is actually blown out with compressed air but not such a pistol. Poor test, unreliable, lying and untrue because it was made completely thoughtlessly, hence the effects as in the movie. Remember, thinking has a future, not just stupid testing of something you don't know how to do properly.
Hi, thanks for watching! I take a lot of viewer suggestions on board - some of them are awesome, and some not-so-awesome... If this video stops one other person from ruining their DPF due to heat stress induced cracking then I consider it to be a success, don't you? Not many folk have an industrial oven tucked away in their workshop, so they may be tempted to do something like this. Just a quick correction: soot doesn't turn into ash - soot is pure elemental carbon, and combines with oxygen at 600 degrees celcius to form CO2 gas (carbon dioxide). So let me get this straight...you are saying this is a stupid idea, and I am saying this is a stupid idea - so what is your argument?
@@StevenBTuner i was thinking of doing it till I saw the video, I would buy a new one but apparently its discontinued on my grand Cherokee so trying to think of ways to clean it and save it. Tuning is also not an option Noone tunes the Cherokee I have anymore. Thanks for the video saved my from destroying my vehicle.
6:05 that brown thing is Eolys/infineum which is used in psa diesels for dpf regeneration. That thing stucks in those tubes and blocks the exhaust gas. We are use using chemicals before washing them with high pressure car wash. During the washing the stucked eolys comes out of the filter like little pellets. This is a 1.6 hdi dpf. Which is easy to disassemble from the car. The chemicals we use are autochem 032 dpf direct cleaner liquid or ammonia solution. Ammonia solution is also used for egr valve and other carbon deposit cleaning.
Years ago with two stroke bike exhausts we used to leave for good long soak in paraffin, then set alight.
Once the paraffin had burned out and allowed to cool gentle tapping made all the ash build up simply fall away.
That's a lot like the scheduled regeneration that your car does to burn off the soot deposits.
Good on you for posting this
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice video, thanks.
I hope it helps you out!
Great experimental setup, just a shame for the carport roof. Normally you would have to simulate the heat during regeneration quite accurately in order to convert the soot into ash. This seems to have been successful in the experiment. Only brown ash was visible in the pot. What destroyed the ceramic was probably too high a temperature (far more than during regeneration) and too different temperatures inside. The diesel particulate filter is designed for much higher temperatures than the "normal" exhaust gas would produce.
Hi, too much heat will also melt the glass fiber insulation, so chemical and ultrasonic cleaning methods are a much better idea!
Just use a hammer and chisel and never have a problem with the dpf ever again
Hi Steve
Great video. Have you seen the video of how Renault truck DPFs are regenerated? They use an oven at 600°C to free up the soot and ash.
First blow with air then cook the blow again.
Hi, overnight in an industrial oven is the standard way way for truck and bus DPFs to be cleaned, so this video was to show that not everything is DIY compatible. If you were wanting to do a home DPF clean, then my other video is still my favorite method: th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
Très très bon 👍
:-)
Would have liked to see u put the torch in the outher end and use a compresser
Hi, I think that thermal expansion is going to be a huge risk regardless of which end you work on the most.
Hmmm.. you are misunderstanding this concept, "burn". The "burn" inside the filter will need oxygen. If you don't put oxygen inside, the sood can't burn or what so ever..
Everything about this technique is flawed and not recommended. Chemical and ultrasonic are much better ways to go about the ash removal process.
I like and follow your work on this subject I wish you success. So is there a way to clean it without disassembling it on the vehicle? like pouring in through the sensor, injecting vs.
Hi, even with full removal and chemical cleaning, there is still a bunch of inert glassy products that come out at the end of the process with a water back-flush. It is for that reason that I believe an in-place ash clean can never get everything 100% clean. The in-place cleans are a good 'maintenance clean', and will probably extend the life of the filter by at least 2x if they are done every 2 years. I haven't really gone down that path because there is usually some other issue that needs addressing that requires the DPF to be removed (like a turbo issue), so the removal part is already done. I haven't dismissed the idea, and I might do it to a friends car at some stage ;-)
Thanks for showing us your experiment..
Question tho you had no pressure in order for the ash or soot to be forced out . Would I be wrong in saying that ??
Hi, nothing much can help this method as it is no substitute for an industrial oven.
4:52 Inhaling this dust is extremely dangerous and irresponsible for the environment. Crazy job !
Nasty indeed - much better to chemical clean a DPF.
Heatgun works for off car regen of a dpf.
Ash doesn't burn . Need to fluhlah it out
Very true!
you are a clever man so you are forgiven for forgetting that heat rises .....i hope the wife forgives you mabe flowers will do the trick
Haha, nothing that can't be fixed...
If heat was all that was needed to remove ash, the regen cycle would have done that already. No, metal ash needs to be dissolved with acids.
Hi, that is not obvious to a lot of folk...
You need to apply the flame through the hose, not the open end.
I don't think that there is a safe way to do this job.
I see that professional use a Kilm, Does anyone know at what temperature and for how long the bake these?
Hi, I believe it to be around 800 degrees Celcius / 1500 degrees Fahrenheit for 6 to 8 hours - but I'm sure that there is a lot of variance out there. The main thing with using an industrial oven to remove the soot from a soot blocked DPF is that it has to get over 600 degrees Celcius / 1112 degrees Fahrenheit in order for the carbon to combine with oxygen to form carbon dioxide. After the DPF has cooled down it is usually given a blast with compressed air to blow out any remaining residue.
Hello Steven,
I have been watching you DIY videos regarding the DPF filter and they are very informative. On my car the DPF and the Catalytic converter are in the same housing and on one of my friends cars the DPF has a DOC. After some research I found out that the only available chemicals (seemingly fit for the job) in my country are: Pool Ph reducer containing 39-51% citric acid and a phosphoric acid (used in fertilizer industry) containing 81-85% Phosphoric acid and 61% Phosphorus pentoxide. I am not a chemist myself and I do not understand how the ingredients could exceed 100%? Furthermore, do you think that any of the above mentioned chemicals can safely clean the two DPF's?
Hi, thanks for watching my vids! it is a super tricky balance when it comes to cleaning methods that are safe to use on DPFs that have an integrated catalyst/DOC. High pressure water blasting could be done really carefully to not damage the ceramic binder material, but it will definitely blast the platinum right off the Diesel Oxidation Catalyst, so you could only do it where you had good access to the exhaust end of the filter, and only applied the high pressure to that end. Ultrasonic cleaning might be a good option if you get a large enough machine - and I'll be doing some testing on that very soon (I know that some specialist companies already use ultrasonic cleaning on DPFs). Acids are the perfect thing to react and break down ash deposits, but if they are in strong concentrations then they will also (depending on the acid) attack the steel or stainless steel case or attack the materials that make up the catalyst. I go for a 5-7% strength HCl and a 30 minute time limit so any attacks on metals are minimal, but that the ash is still broken down, and I figured that HCl was available in almost all countries as it is commonly used for cleaning brickwork and masonry. Strong acids like you have mentioned are best kept away from the catalyst, and I know from testing that if you dilute phosphoric acid down to 5% then it doesn't dissolve the ash deposits at all - so you can see what I mean about it being a bit tricky... I have received suggestions that diluted nitric or sulfuric acids will work well - but I suspect that they are both impossible to buy in most countries, and so I haven't done any testing on them.
@@StevenBTuner Thank you for the reply. I might be able to get my hands on 13% HCI. I am planning on diluting it 1:1 and repeating the process from one of your videos. BTW this ultrasonic cleaning sounds interesting so I am looking forward to see the results.
@@atti0808 That would be perfect - I'd love to hear how it goes!
When I used these torches to do thermoplastic My shoes were burnt and melted
They pack a punch for sure!
😂 that's hilarious lol
so, i also tryed that before, and its absolutely not working in my case
I'm glad I'm not the only one! :-)
I plan to clean the dpf filter by and take another car in tow so that the engine has maximum load and maximum exhaust temperature to blow out all unburned particles.
Hi, if it is long term ash deposits that you are trying to get rid of, then high exhaust temperatures aren't going to make any difference.
This is good to burn the soot at the manifold intake maybe?
Hi, super high temperatures and plastic are never going to be a good combination!
@@StevenBTuner haha. Ya. Assuming the manifold is not plastic. Idk actually what or how my 08 3.0L grand cherokee diesel manifold looking like. But per some videos I saw I think its cast iron / steel
@@nometalgearr I don't think you understand just how much energy it takes to cook carbon off. Your intake is going to be hydrocarbons (oil) and carbon. In addition it is more than just temperature. Oxygen must be present or nothing will be oxidized.
is that DPF from Peugeot Citroens?
Certainly is.
the only thing i didnt like about this video is the fact that you got the dpf to hot with the torch on the end which could have caused the cracking of the internal ceramic
Hi, the uneven heating did cause the cracking - but it still didn't get rid of the ash... Other cleaning methods are a lot safer and more effective.
Hi steve, I've bought a car with a sheered turbo shaft, the shaft inc fan went into dpf and has filled dpf with engine oil what would be my best product to break down the engine oil in dpf filler please.
Hi, you will need to take the DPF off the car. Get some sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner) and mix 200 grams in a liter of warm water and then add 50 grams of dishwashing liquid. Give it a good shake. You might need to repeat it a bunch of times before it is fully cleaned, so maybe buy 2 Kgs along with a couple of bottles of dishwashing liquid. Wear gloves and protective glasses as you don't any of that stuff on you!
@StevenBTuner thank you so much I will give it a go 👌
@@StevenBTunerHi Steven,
On your 9 chemicals to clean your DPF video I think you mentioned that you would use dishwasher tablets instead of drain cleaner after you had seen the results.
I wonder why you haven’t used the dishwasher product. Have you perhaps discovered a disadvantage?
Thanks for making these videos!
What about any scraping method like a plastic stick or something, would it have any effect? Or just damage the filter?
Hi, thanks for watching! The channels in the ceramic material are blocked at opposite ends in order to force the exhaust gases through the walls of the filter (DPFs are also called wall-flow filters), which means that you can't push anything all the way through to clear out the soot or ash. Also the fine matrix that catches the soot is microscopic, so can't really be cleaned my any mechanical method unfortunately.
@@StevenBTuner I've been watching your channel since the first video, you are doing a great job. I will definetly try the chemical method when will be the case.
Thanks! I hope you'll report back how the cleaning goes!
you have the temperature but not the flow an engine would give you
Hi, thanks for watching! Too much temperature...if an engine got that hot the exhaust valves would burn out and parts in the turbo would be destroyed.
@@StevenBTuner i ment what you was doing was good with the roofers torch mabe if you had it fan assisted it might clear it through
@@joken8901 I think it would have worked a lot better if there was good access to both ends of the ceramic, but most cars have the DPF enclosed with only a pipe going in and out which makes it very difficult to evenly heat it with the gas torch. For the moment I'll be sticking with my 2 stage chemical cleaning method: th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
@@StevenBTuner yes ive watched your chemical cleaning vids they are very well done you are a caring and patient man and dedicate your time and money to show others the best and worst methods to use so the dont get ripped off by the main dealers who are not real mechanics like your self but are fitters 1 off 1 on but dont know how they really work, keep up the fantastic work
cracked dpf will clear the codes but will be useless.
Yes, and a lot of cars have cracked DPFs when they get a lot of miles on them.
Bathroom scales will not show the few grams of difference
Hi, if it was a good process then there should be well over 100 grams of difference.
@@StevenBTuner what are the increments on the scales. average bathroom set would easily be + or - 100grm
Hi, they are kitchen scales accurate to 1 gram.
I would buy a petrol powered car not diesel powered car Or go ev plugin
Transition takes time, so we may as well do the best we can with the millions of existing vehicles.
The experience in the film is completely pointless. First, burning with a torch is not to get rid of the ash, but just to turn the soot into ash. Secondly, the cracks (if they were not there before), which we do not know, were probably caused by too rapid heating or too rapid cooling. The filter heats up gradually - you have to do everything while thinking about what you are doing, not the madman. It also cools down gradually by reducing the temperature for a long time, and we do not heat up to 900 degrees and we extinguish everything :-) what you expected from it, if not cracks :-) And the ash is actually blown out with compressed air but not such a pistol. Poor test, unreliable, lying and untrue because it was made completely thoughtlessly, hence the effects as in the movie. Remember, thinking has a future, not just stupid testing of something you don't know how to do properly.
Hi, thanks for watching! I take a lot of viewer suggestions on board - some of them are awesome, and some not-so-awesome... If this video stops one other person from ruining their DPF due to heat stress induced cracking then I consider it to be a success, don't you? Not many folk have an industrial oven tucked away in their workshop, so they may be tempted to do something like this. Just a quick correction: soot doesn't turn into ash - soot is pure elemental carbon, and combines with oxygen at 600 degrees celcius to form CO2 gas (carbon dioxide). So let me get this straight...you are saying this is a stupid idea, and I am saying this is a stupid idea - so what is your argument?
@@StevenBTuner i was thinking of doing it till I saw the video, I would buy a new one but apparently its discontinued on my grand Cherokee so trying to think of ways to clean it and save it. Tuning is also not an option Noone tunes the Cherokee I have anymore. Thanks for the video saved my from destroying my vehicle.
@@VItimmyy Hi, my 2 stage chemical clean is still the best and safest method I know of so far: th-cam.com/video/LE1boZ3fhLg/w-d-xo.html
What a very unfriendly and rude comment!
Why not just use a power washer? Alotta guys do that
Hi, if you have an integrated catalytic converter, then a pressure washer will blast the platinum right off the cat.