In the end, the spring tension is an important part of why I like the uAscend. I would recommend you go for the uAscend. But note that there have been one uAscend that was reported with weak springs out of the box. GrandWall sent a new device to the client and the spring was much better (stronger). Personally I have owned 2 uAscends and both had the same spring tension.
You are so on point with the bad batch recall advice and the back up device!!!! Both have the C.E. marking, which is good, but the thing i like most is the sticker in the back of the Xinda device. Thank you again for your videos
I think it’s nice that there are similar operable options on the market to the camp lift; however due to China stealing intellectual property and not really pushing innovation in the climbing gear realm I would go with something else.
All these devices are copies of the Ushba basic ascender I believe. I would like to know Gary Storrick’s opinion on the subject! And I am not sure there is a patent on the uAscend. But I see what you mean!!
I've been using the cheap geelife version (with a backup) for 22$. It's been bullet proof so far, surprisingly. I've used it for TRS, lead solo, and trad. I want camp's lift, but haven't yet, just ALWAYS HAVE A BACKUP. I also use Kong's 'backup' for lead solo because the Rope comes along a lot easier if you have it on the right setting. But if you use this, be sure not to grab the Rope above it when you file because it probably won't catch
I think the geelife is a copy of the camp lift right? You have used it for LRS? Note that it is not designed for high loads generated on LRS!!! As for the Kong Backup, I have thought of using it that way but never dared. The Camp Goblin has been used for LRS and tested by amateurs and seem to stand the test of time (but it is neither the best system out there nor widely used so be careful out there!!) But the Kong Backup I would like to see more testing in LRS settings (using dummies maybe not people!) with climbing ropes and get a feel for the consistency of the results. Also what connector do you use with the Kong Backup? The recommended Ovalone is the only one I would recommend after the testing I have done!!! I made it fail repeatedly with very similar connectors but different in critical aspects…
when leading, I usually have it backing up my kong because of its limits. I use dmm ceros lockstep with the backup, and I run it through my chest loop and both holes on the kong. I love the ceros, I keep trango vergo on the ceros quicklock for coming down or if need to ascend. It's a pretty cool system I'm I'm always tinkering with.I'll try to get a pic or clip to show ya. I really want to try the goblin or the Taz lov but just can't yet. Thanks for the all info videos bud. Keep up the good work. Climb or Die BigDogVomit Universe
It looks like there are other similar devices on the market for eg. Camp Lift, Singing Rock Locker and maybe more expensive Climbing Technology Easy Speed. Are they very different from those two? Those devices are easy to buy in eu countries and at least Camp and Singing Rock are not very expensive too.
Lots of similar devices but they all have unique ways of working, failure modes, etc. Look for my other video about the Camp Lift (not my favorite). Also I tested a version of the Rocker (copy of the Singing Rock Locker) and it has some unique features that make it stand out. For industrial fall arrest: maybe. For TRS: not for me as of 2022. For other special uses: maybe!! It has been used for LRS in the alpine!!! I also own the easy speed and I don't see a use for me right now. But great for fall arrest probably!
DMM buddy looks STRONG. It is a fall-arrest device. It is one of the tested in my 60+ current pull tests. But I doubt it will be a favorite for TRS because it has no spring in the cam therefore there can be some slippage. Not something I look for!
When top rope soloing falls and forces are so small that it will certainly work. But what about falling on dynamic rope when using down rope? Will this device withstand typical falls on dynamic rope?
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Top roping is understandable. Opposite climbing method to top roping is having rope coming from below which some call 'lead rope solo climbing' or simply 'down rope solo' (which is logical compared to top rope solo). 'Dynamic rope' is then climbing rope with fall elongation about 35%. The opposite rope is called static rope with elongation only below 10%. I hope that clears the terminology.
Another question is what happens when the spring inside breaks? This device cannot be dismantled so you have to throw it off? Chinese spring will break first? Wet conditions will make this device fail sooner?
As with most devices, a broken spring cannot be replaced and the device should be discarded. I never had such a failure on a device in normal use. Devices currently produced are quite durable (but all will fail eventually, just in a long long time). The problem is more friction that chews metal parts making them dangerous to use.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yeah, but some devices like beal birdie have screws to dismantle (and possible repair) the device. If you would find spare parts for it. I am also more worried about the small rivets than the spring. Not sure if this tiny device wouldn't break and fall apart when bigger forces are applied during fall? These type of devices usually have inscription: MAX 100kg.
@@leagoo52 The DMM Buddy 100 is an animal. I pull tested on a worn 9.8mm (out of specs) and got to 7.1 kN with "Stopped to save device, super light sheath damage, device OK". Most "light duty" devices would have been broken at such a force. I broke a uAscend at 5.9kN...
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing You broke uAscend at 5.9 kN? That's the force that is being applied to an anchor during fall! Hopefully the force will be smaller on the climber's side where the device is located. But this chinese device would certainly break at lower forces because it has smaller rivets.
@@leagoo52 I pull tested the device. Experiencing a 5.9kN impact force during TRSing would be because you do things very wrong. It should never happen. In theory someone can survive a 12kN impact force. But injury could happen at 5-6kN in my opinion. Don't chance it!! Makes sense? I pulled 5.5kN in the same configuration on the Chinese Xinda "uAscend" and it did not break! I believe you are likely wrong saying the Chinese would "certainly break at lower forces".
Some people just don't have access to the uAscend... In that case they might be looking for options! Thanks for the comment! By the way they are all based on the Ushba basic ascender I believe. So they are both knockoffs!
In the end, the spring tension is an important part of why I like the uAscend. I would recommend you go for the uAscend. But note that there have been one uAscend that was reported with weak springs out of the box. GrandWall sent a new device to the client and the spring was much better (stronger). Personally I have owned 2 uAscends and both had the same spring tension.
You are so on point with the bad batch recall advice and the back up device!!!! Both have the C.E. marking, which is good, but the thing i like most is the sticker in the back of the Xinda device. Thank you again for your videos
I think it’s nice that there are similar operable options on the market to the camp lift; however due to China stealing intellectual property and not really pushing innovation in the climbing gear realm I would go with something else.
All these devices are copies of the Ushba basic ascender I believe. I would like to know Gary Storrick’s opinion on the subject! And I am not sure there is a patent on the uAscend. But I see what you mean!!
I've been using the cheap geelife version (with a backup) for 22$. It's been bullet proof so far, surprisingly. I've used it for TRS, lead solo, and trad. I want camp's lift, but haven't yet, just ALWAYS HAVE A BACKUP. I also use Kong's 'backup' for lead solo because the Rope comes along a lot easier if you have it on the right setting. But if you use this, be sure not to grab the Rope above it when you file because it probably won't catch
I think the geelife is a copy of the camp lift right? You have used it for LRS? Note that it is not designed for high loads generated on LRS!!! As for the Kong Backup, I have thought of using it that way but never dared. The Camp Goblin has been used for LRS and tested by amateurs and seem to stand the test of time (but it is neither the best system out there nor widely used so be careful out there!!) But the Kong Backup I would like to see more testing in LRS settings (using dummies maybe not people!) with climbing ropes and get a feel for the consistency of the results. Also what connector do you use with the Kong Backup? The recommended Ovalone is the only one I would recommend after the testing I have done!!! I made it fail repeatedly with very similar connectors but different in critical aspects…
when leading, I usually have it backing up my kong because of its limits. I use dmm ceros lockstep with the backup, and I run it through my chest loop and both holes on the kong. I love the ceros, I keep trango vergo on the ceros quicklock for coming down or if need to ascend. It's a pretty cool system I'm I'm always tinkering with.I'll try to get a pic or clip to show ya. I really want to try the goblin or the Taz lov but just can't yet. Thanks for the all info videos bud. Keep up the good work.
Climb or Die
BigDogVomit Universe
Correction : ceros locksafe, not lockstep. Damn auto-correct. Haha
It looks like there are other similar devices on the market for eg. Camp Lift, Singing Rock Locker and maybe more expensive Climbing Technology Easy Speed. Are they very different from those two? Those devices are easy to buy in eu countries and at least Camp and Singing Rock are not very expensive too.
Lots of similar devices but they all have unique ways of working, failure modes, etc. Look for my other video about the Camp Lift (not my favorite). Also I tested a version of the Rocker (copy of the Singing Rock Locker) and it has some unique features that make it stand out. For industrial fall arrest: maybe. For TRS: not for me as of 2022. For other special uses: maybe!! It has been used for LRS in the alpine!!! I also own the easy speed and I don't see a use for me right now. But great for fall arrest probably!
Seems good device :) I got one
Good info. Thank you. Any info you have on the DMM Buddy is appreciated.
DMM buddy looks STRONG. It is a fall-arrest device. It is one of the tested in my 60+ current pull tests. But I doubt it will be a favorite for TRS because it has no spring in the cam therefore there can be some slippage. Not something I look for!
When top rope soloing falls and forces are so small that it will certainly work. But what about falling on dynamic rope when using down rope? Will this device withstand typical falls on dynamic rope?
"falls on dynamic rope"? "down rope"? Not sure I understand the questions...
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Top roping is understandable. Opposite climbing method to top roping is having rope coming from below which some call 'lead rope solo climbing' or simply 'down rope solo' (which is logical compared to top rope solo). 'Dynamic rope' is then climbing rope with fall elongation about 35%. The opposite rope is called static rope with elongation only below 10%.
I hope that clears the terminology.
I agree "WBS" is a nonsense term but I'm sure they mean WLL (or maybe slip force?)
Another question is what happens when the spring inside breaks? This device cannot be dismantled so you have to throw it off? Chinese spring will break first? Wet conditions will make this device fail sooner?
As with most devices, a broken spring cannot be replaced and the device should be discarded. I never had such a failure on a device in normal use. Devices currently produced are quite durable (but all will fail eventually, just in a long long time). The problem is more friction that chews metal parts making them dangerous to use.
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing Yeah, but some devices like beal birdie have screws to dismantle (and possible repair) the device. If you would find spare parts for it.
I am also more worried about the small rivets than the spring. Not sure if this tiny device wouldn't break and fall apart when bigger forces are applied during fall? These type of devices usually have inscription: MAX 100kg.
@@leagoo52 The DMM Buddy 100 is an animal. I pull tested on a worn 9.8mm (out of specs) and got to 7.1 kN with "Stopped to save device, super light sheath damage, device OK". Most "light duty" devices would have been broken at such a force. I broke a uAscend at 5.9kN...
@@YannCamusBlissClimbing You broke uAscend at 5.9 kN? That's the force that is being applied to an anchor during fall!
Hopefully the force will be smaller on the climber's side where the device is located.
But this chinese device would certainly break at lower forces because it has smaller rivets.
@@leagoo52 I pull tested the device. Experiencing a 5.9kN impact force during TRSing would be because you do things very wrong. It should never happen. In theory someone can survive a 12kN impact force. But injury could happen at 5-6kN in my opinion. Don't chance it!! Makes sense? I pulled 5.5kN in the same configuration on the Chinese Xinda "uAscend" and it did not break! I believe you are likely wrong saying the Chinese would "certainly break at lower forces".
Why even give these knockoffs air time. They stole the design, and now you want people to use it?
Some people just don't have access to the uAscend... In that case they might be looking for options! Thanks for the comment! By the way they are all based on the Ushba basic ascender I believe. So they are both knockoffs!
Plz don't feed a countries that are hostile to us.
I will not feed hostilities. We are the world. We are the freedom. Give peace a chance. Thank you!
Xinda is pronounced "SHIN da". Be super careful buying Xinda, they make very reasonable stuff and people are making knock-offs.