Very complete representation of your mechanical processes and your decisions about the (inevitable) compromises. Thank you, such clarity is rare in the TH-cam world. My own Mk"O" 850 which I've owned for 52 1/2 years has never had issues with a lack of power using the RM23 Lucas two-phase stator and stock-from-the-factory rectifier (the rectumfryer) and Zener -- which I think we can agree was about as shoddy an electrical control system as has ever been implemented -- and this was when I was living in the UK (long long winter nights) and using my Commando as my "daily driver". Of course, all lights were original with the halogen headlamp bulb and standard filament pilot/tail/stop/indicator bulbs, and with using the points ignition system. With this in mind, I'm not in any hurry to change to three phase. Also, I'm using a Shingenin (sp??) electrical control box that functions as a rectifier and regulator -- I think the control system is much easier on the alternator than one of the "MosFet" control systems -- with a Sachse high-performance electronic ignition system and one of their matching dual-output ignition coil. Modern kit is *really* nice compared with the "agricultural" components of the 70s. I was interested to see your experience with a rotor that was out-of-round. I'll admit to not even thinking that such might be a problem, even with the number of Commando owners that I've seen struggling with setting a consistent gap between rotor and stator, and by the way, I've found that using brass feeler gauges made that task easier. Unfortunately, failures caused by improperly set gaps often destroy evidence of the actual initial failure mode (I once cooked a complete rotor/stator unit during a race meeting. The stator was completely burnt and melted down and the magnets were loose in the rotor -- I say "loose" in the meaning of actually falling out of the rotor when the remains of the stator were pulled off - which in turn was so completely damaged by mechanically rubbing on the stator that all the parts were mangled. Was the failure caused by the magnets coming loose, or the gap between rotor and stator being not correctly set, or something odd like crank flex causing the alternator components to touch?). What was the source of the out-of-round rotor? It's a given that there's no way to know if any "original" branded Lucas item made new today has any relationship to parts made in the 70s; I can't believe that any production tooling even exists from the original, but my experience is that modern "pattern" parts are likely to be a shoddy reproduction of (an original shoddy) component so I like to stay away from them if possible. Still, knowing the background and brand of that rotor would be of interest. I'm quite appalled by the thought of a 6 thou out of round condition when an 8 thou clearance is generally considered the best compromise for working clearance and good charging performance -- that strikes me as a recipe for disaster. Thank you for highlighting the importance of properly placing and supporting the stator leads. They are fragile and susceptible to damage in any case so taking care of them during assembly is always a good thing. I've subscribed and look forward to more of your videos. I like your workshop but such a setup is out of the question for me (I have a wife). Thanks for the good work.
Hi, I am really lucky to have such a workshop. It is something I always wanted but I had to wait until I was 70 years old to get one. Retirement money you know. The alternator rotor came from a reputable UK shop as was branded as Lucas; I expect it was made off shore though. I have lived through more than 50 years of British electrics, mostly on classic bikes. After spending most of my working life designing military radios etc. I get a little fussy when it comes to reliable electrics.
Very complete representation of your mechanical processes and your decisions about the (inevitable) compromises. Thank you, such clarity is rare in the TH-cam world.
My own Mk"O" 850 which I've owned for 52 1/2 years has never had issues with a lack of power using the RM23 Lucas two-phase stator and stock-from-the-factory rectifier (the rectumfryer) and Zener -- which I think we can agree was about as shoddy an electrical control system as has ever been implemented -- and this was when I was living in the UK (long long winter nights) and using my Commando as my "daily driver". Of course, all lights were original with the halogen headlamp bulb and standard filament pilot/tail/stop/indicator bulbs, and with using the points ignition system. With this in mind, I'm not in any hurry to change to three phase.
Also, I'm using a Shingenin (sp??) electrical control box that functions as a rectifier and regulator -- I think the control system is much easier on the alternator than one of the "MosFet" control systems -- with a Sachse high-performance electronic ignition system and one of their matching dual-output ignition coil. Modern kit is *really* nice compared with the "agricultural" components of the 70s.
I was interested to see your experience with a rotor that was out-of-round. I'll admit to not even thinking that such might be a problem, even with the number of Commando owners that I've seen struggling with setting a consistent gap between rotor and stator, and by the way, I've found that using brass feeler gauges made that task easier. Unfortunately, failures caused by improperly set gaps often destroy evidence of the actual initial failure mode (I once cooked a complete rotor/stator unit during a race meeting. The stator was completely burnt and melted down and the magnets were loose in the rotor -- I say "loose" in the meaning of actually falling out of the rotor when the remains of the stator were pulled off - which in turn was so completely damaged by mechanically rubbing on the stator that all the parts were mangled. Was the failure caused by the magnets coming loose, or the gap between rotor and stator being not correctly set, or something odd like crank flex causing the alternator components to touch?).
What was the source of the out-of-round rotor? It's a given that there's no way to know if any "original" branded Lucas item made new today has any relationship to parts made in the 70s; I can't believe that any production tooling even exists from the original, but my experience is that modern "pattern" parts are likely to be a shoddy reproduction of (an original shoddy) component so I like to stay away from them if possible. Still, knowing the background and brand of that rotor would be of interest. I'm quite appalled by the thought of a 6 thou out of round condition when an 8 thou clearance is generally considered the best compromise for working clearance and good charging performance -- that strikes me as a recipe for disaster.
Thank you for highlighting the importance of properly placing and supporting the stator leads. They are fragile and susceptible to damage in any case so taking care of them during assembly is always a good thing.
I've subscribed and look forward to more of your videos. I like your workshop but such a setup is out of the question for me (I have a wife). Thanks for the good work.
Hi, I am really lucky to have such a workshop. It is something I always wanted but I had to wait until I was 70 years old to get one. Retirement money you know.
The alternator rotor came from a reputable UK shop as was branded as Lucas; I expect it was made off shore though. I have lived through more than 50 years of British electrics, mostly on classic bikes. After spending most of my working life designing military radios etc. I get a little fussy when it comes to reliable electrics.
If the only tool you have is a hammer all the world is nails; I have a new lathe so all the world needs turning...🤔