Hope you guys enjoyed! It would help hugely if you save this link as your amazon homepage, so when you shop the channel gets a small kickback: goo.gl/x1ehvA Please consider helping to keep these videos coming
Do you also have a link for the German "amazon.de" page?
5 ปีที่แล้ว +11
Not many people improve tools they borrow for a long time. Usually come back in a worst shape nowadays. Shows your a man of honour, really respect that.
As an older woman your continuing contribution to TH-cam is exemplary. With your busy TH-cam schedule i have no idea where you find the time to keep your hands so well manicured.
You actually did it properly with the converter. I simply would have chugged 2 cells in series (or 2 pairs in series) in that thing and hope for the best :P
This worked great! I used two lithium 18650 in series and moved the charging circuit to replace the innards of an old paslode battery charger station. If using parallel cells they need to be matched cells or else they need load balancing. I found the contacts were soldered to the nicad terminals so I pried them off, soldered them to wires, then bent them over the ends of the black spacer and riveted thru the spacer to the part of the contacts on the inside, then folded the contacts back over. This saved me waiting for new batteries. Time will tell if the 7.4V will fry the igniter. But it works now. May order a buck converter to be safe. I am using batteries from battery space with protection pcb built into the pack.
Hey Eric. I’m considering doing what you described. How’s the circuitry/spark plug holding up with the 7.4v? Also can you describe how you adapted the charger to work with the 2s 18650 cell pack you added?
@@user-jx2zz4lb5d sorry I'm late! I just connected the terminals of the battery housing to an RC charger that could charge two cells in series (2S). Its held up fine so far. The 18650s charge to 4.2V each, so I'm actually running 8.2V through. Not the best idea. Better to do it right. Single 18650 with buck boost converter and a large capacitor to deliver however many amps it needs. But so far my simple approach works fine.
New curative should be delivered today! My progress with the composite motors was halted when my curative froze and wouldn't work anymore. Rocket motor videos soon!
Those Paslode Nicad batteries are my bain. Was thinking of converting the thing to use four AA battereis. Not any more. Your idea is great and all us old Paslode owners should be bowing at your feet Ordering the bits now. I presume the switch goes between the board and the battery positive
Glad you like the idea. Man it's been a while since I did this, but I think I put the switch right in line with the battery, so it does need to be switched on to charge. I've been using this battery for a few years now and it's still working great. Lasts forever too.
@@ElementalMaker I used to mess around with electronics but that was some years ago (fixing car alarms and VCRs). Have just ordered the identical board to yours.
@@BensWorkshop Okay, I'll give it a go. Obviously we're already here with EM and covered Big Clive. AvE Cody'sLab Project Farm This Old Tony Great Scott The 8-Bit guy Scott Manley Bosnianbill standupmaths The Action Lab How To Make Everything Tom Scott Shawn Woods singingbanana SmarterEveryDay Applied Science Please share any that you think the algorithm missed for my recommendations!
Super glue and baking soda is a great combination for bonding across seams or breaks, but I'm sure you've probably heard of it before. It is an awesome go to for rigid bonding...
That is one of the most useful things I've ever learned. I don't understand why they don't write it on the tube. For many applications it is better than epoxy and it sets so hard and so quick you can file it within minutes. For this particular application tho I reckon the solvent would've been far better.
In hindsight one thing I recommend doing is using PCB protected 18650 cells. I didn't realize the boost converter circuit I used didn't have low voltage protection built in.
Always neat to see these franken-repairs work. Might be cool in a future video to see if one of these butane/electric tools could be converted into a BB gu ... er... (cough youtube algorithm cough) projectile launcher.
What could I get the booster out of? Or do you absolutely have to have one? I don't know alot about that stuff but I have the exact same issue going on with my battery so I figured I would try this before I bought a new one
Ok so after a long delay I got one built. * Finer gauge wiring is no use - Paslode wont work with it. Used 0.75mm wire in the end. * Vaping batteries are 2 amp/hr so only needed one. * Used a rocker switch to give clear indication that the battery is isolated. * Fastening everything in place was done with hot-glue gun. * Material costs = £14.80 * It will power up an IM350 but it is struggling to get enough power for the fan. Back to the drawing board.
Yessir! A new bottle of curative should be delivered today! My progress with the composite motors was halted when my curative froze and wouldn't work anymore. More rocket motor videos soon!
@@ElementalMaker Please keep 'em coming! My 2yo made his first motor (okay, it was a matchstick... But come on, he's 2) last week and the 4yo broke her record for both Isp and Apogee with a sugar alcohol fuel and Potassium-based oxygen source.
I'm in the middle of this, and I'm trying to figure out how you got the board to stay in place. I was thinking hot glue, but I'm worried that it will come lose with repeated mini usb insertions/removals. Any tips?
I think I did just use industrial grade hot glue, but yeah I think the household stuff would loosen up with enough bumps. A non corrosive silicone or even a thick non conductive epoxy would work great. Something like bsi clear epoxy with some fumed silica to thicken it up
Nice mod there. You have me worried a little with the ring on and batteries out. Not that a lot of guys like to take there rings off. But for safety you do need to protect it from any live power.
@@ElementalMaker Maybe do a PSA on what can happen if you bridge the contacts on a charged pack with a ring. I think that there are a lot of people that don't know how much energy those cells can dump very quickly. If you really want to show some juice flowing try some wet cell NiCad batteries . When I was taking my A&P classed and we were doing NiCad battery packs we had to remove all metal and even take the wrenches we were using to unbolt the cells. The newer Lithium batteries are even worse. they can and will bite you if given the careless chance. Then there is careless dieign that can cause a pack to go up in flames. For battery explosions this one is a good show of just how bad it can get. th-cam.com/video/WdDi1haA71Q/w-d-xo.html
Its a perfect remodeling! How to get an info about components used for this, please? An electronic module, a switch and a compatible Li cells? It`s a very interesting. I`d like to do the same
Given enough space, I would have built a small N/O limit switch into the side of the battery enclosure, so that the boost converter is only under power when the battery is inserted into the tool.
Made one and it works great! Question about charging, though - Do you know how I can prevent overcharging the cells? The Amazon listing says the circuit board won't prevent overcharging, so I'm worried that I might cause the batteries to explode if I leave them on a charger too long.
@@arbour0713 I dont believe that answer is correct, as far as I know this circuit will prevent overcharging. I dont believe is has discharge protection built in though, so it could overdischarge the 18650's and essential ruin the cells. Definitely do your own research, but again I'm pretty sure this circuit automatically stops charging (given the red light for charging, and the green light for charged).
This a good modification however, apparently the module used here doesn't offer discharge protection which may leave you with a useless battery if over discharged. Remember, lithium batteries can't be over discharged. I would add that kind of protection to the battery itself to avoid any headache. Besides, advice to charge the two batteries separately to fully charged before connecting them because if they're not balanced at least you you can be 60 to 70% sure they're not going to be unbalanced within a few charging discharging cycles, because the module doesn't offer balanced charging either. Greets.
I have a question, laptop batterys, are they all the same type of battery In different countries? I have one ready to take apart, I live in the US, from what I could tell on your video they are not marked, What do you think I can expect? Thank you in advance.
They are typically made in Japan, Korea, (or China for the cheaper ones). The cells are marked but it's just simple printing that wasn't visible on camera. Different mfgs use different types of batteries within the 18650 form factor, whether they be different mfgs, capacities, chemistries etc
@@ElementalMaker I just took them out of the case and it has 2 rows of numbers and letters, the top row has LGABC41865 and The 2nd row has P040B098AK That is all it has on the whole battery, They are larger than regular batteries and they all seemed to be at 3.6 and 3.4 and 3.6 volt's. Is that voltage normal for this type of battery? thank you.
Here are all the specs on the LG batteries. I would guess that the other batteries are identical specs as MFG's shouldn't mix and match differing cells. secondlifestorage.com/showthread.php?tid=2319 Please do your research before moving any further, as 18650's store ALOT of energy, and if you short one it can cause alot of damage or a fire.
@@americanrebel413 Ah gotcha. That second number is probably just manufacturer batch number info. Yes that voltage is in the normal range. Check that page I sent you, it has all the critical info for the battery. All 18650's have a max voltage of 4.2 and a safe discharge limit around 2.8. Any lower than that and the cell will be damaged. Be careful with old laptop batteries though, they can have high internal resistance and sometimes ezplode or catch fire. You really need to know what your doing when it comes to lithium ion batteries or bad shit will happen.
if those batteries are 18650's full charge is 4.2 (risk exploding at any higher voltage) down to 2.5 (risk exploding at any lower voltage) with nominal being 3.7 and they can pump out CRAZY current... 4 of them in series fully charged can easily start your car several times
I added an 1n5004 in series with the positive battery terminal, so that way if he puts it on the charger it wont even recognize it, and could never backfeed into the circuit board. Unfortunately I did a double punch and didn't record that bit.
what would have happened, had you put the new cells in without the controller (just an 'out'-plug connection for a suitable charger?). Is it worth a try? Great vid, thanks!
@@ElementalMaker sorry to be annoying - (due to being new to these things, perhaps), I can't find anything that looks to be a suitable equivalent adjustable output board on eBay UK, nor on Amazon UK - are there any you know of available from European sites?
@@ElementalMaker Thanks for your help - much appreciated. I think it's this one (for other European users) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1S-1A-USB-3-7V-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-Charger-Board-Boost-Step-Up-Module/253107094511?hash=item3aee5bc3ef:g:1CIAAOSwp7FaXb-6
@@ElementalMaker Have you ever tried replacing the batteries in an NiCd or NiMh DeWalt cordless drill/driver with Li-ions? DeWalt have built them so the carcass is very difficult to restuff, and the clip is part of a seperate moulding, (but nothing that can't be overcome) so would these little circuit boards handle enough power to work with the power drill? Is there a workaround, perhaps simply a bypass switch for work mode vs charging mode? So far I have been removing the batteries to recharge, using a good quality 18650 charger, a bit scared of charging them 'as a pack'. Could one charge a set of (from memory) 5 pairs with that little board, in situ? You probably know that DeWalt changed battery format rendering the older battery cartridges useless in their new range, though one can buy a converter on eBay. But as I have so many of them, I'd love to reuse the existing cartridges with new li-ions which I have loads of. I hope the question is of interest, and I know there are videos on it, but none when I last looked (a year ago) seemed really comprehensive and with full protection, and charger, as you used in the Paslode, which is why I'm interested in your opinion. Best wishes.
Have you done a video on methylene chloride? I think i'd like to be able to make two plastic things one. Would sure look better than my metal stickings togethers.
It's great stuff for bonding acrylic, abs, polycarbonate and some other plastics. Generally pretty nasty health wise though. If you can smell it, it's already dissolving your brain.
It lives ! Now , the only way it could have been better is a light switch zip tied to the side for disconnect. Lol , honestly I'm impressed. Now , return that poor senior citizen aged tool to your friend.
Shit! I just threw out a load of knackered Paslode batteries - could have used the cases for your conversion. and I just put my IM350 on Ebay Fek! and I just bouight a portable compressor and a used pneumatic framing gun Fek fek! Sounding like a Lewis Black sketch now. Damn
Thats cool I love modern technology just 10yrs ago you couldnt really get those circuit boards and do shit like this, especialy since radio shack and heath went bankrupt
Thanks Tony! They're sweet little circuit boards. My only complaint is the quiescent current is higher than they stated, so I had to add that switch to keep the batteries from draining.
@@ElementalMaker dude chinesium leds wont turn off ,,, I have a bunch of harbor freight flashlights that I can find in the dark because all the leds softly glow while theyre off, and Ive seen it in at least 3 other things I own
They are absolutely awesome tools that are super reliable and high quality in my opinion. Only get them if you'll use them, but man I'm always renovating something in my house and using the Paslode.
@@ElementalMaker then, 2 li-ion în series will work without any converter and even will use the original charger? What voltage the tool's charger actually supplies?
Awesomeness! Time to do some raping, and pillaging on some old dead battery powered tools I have laying around collecting dust. Thank you ElementalMaker for this video tutorial. If I don't respond to your next video, please know I blew myself up trying to go lithium ion. Lol
Just keep in mind this board cannot handle the current (amps) of a normal power tool like a drill. The only reason I could use this board was because of the low power requirements of the paslode since it gets its real energy from the gas cartridges. A drill might draw 300-400 watts, so at 18V that would be 15-20ish amps.
@@kirkc9643 I've always wanted to try refilling them, but can't find any info on what the gas actually is. I believe it's butane, but it could also have some lubricants added to keep the piston from binding. I don't want to mess up my buddies nailer.
Unfortunately this method wont be a direct fix for actual power tools, as the driver board I used only can deliver 2A max current, and a cordless drill uses much much more ( in the 15-20A range). The paslode is pretty low current which is why this worked here (max 1.3A draw). You might be able to find a high current boost converter that would work though. Or maybe just directly power from the 18650's if you can get the right voltage with some series cells, they would just need an undervoltage protection circuit.
Love your channel wish I could see more of your videos I don't know maybe you're making him a New York to TH-cam is just screwing me out of watching him I don't know but cool
To much "inspiration" from AvE... Ni-cd isn't a crappy technology, if you think so then you need to educate yourself. Ni-cd is very forgiving in charging and handling. For charging it only needs a constant current power supply instead of complicated monitoring circuitry, it never overheats while charging and tolerates mild overcharge unlike ni-mh and li-ion. It can provide a lot of current unlike ni-mh, doesn't need battery management systems and it doesn't explode or overheat quickly when overloaded or shorted unlike li-ion. It has it's potential while not needing much, making tools less complicated which means less likely to break and cheaper. It's only downsides are low energy density and memory effect, which can be avoided with just draining it to the correct voltage and charging only then. As an example in li-ion the BMS can be as expensive as half of the cost of entire pack despite being just a little circuit board, because it needs to handle high currents, provide protection and monitor charging with balancing.
Keep an eye on the capacity of the cells , as you can only charge at 0.5C (C being the capacity in Ah). Though many lapotop/salvaged batteries are still ok, a cheap capacity tester couldn't hurt. A cheap thermal switch glued to the cells can interrupt charging if they get hot. Always use a Li-ion charger (can be salvaged from a powerbank). cheers!
I did check the old makita 18650's on my Litokala to be sure the internal resistance of the cells and capacity was still in spec. They were still in good shape. The board I used here has onboard charging circuitry with a max charge current of 1A and max voltage of 4.2V, so perfect for an 18650. Given these are high drain batteries they could definitely be charged a bit faster though.
Your not a very good friend to have a tool a year and a half, if you need one that bad buy it or in this case buy a new one and give it to your friend and keep the one you wore out
Hope you guys enjoyed! It would help hugely if you save this link as your amazon homepage, so when you shop the channel gets a small kickback: goo.gl/x1ehvA Please consider helping to keep these videos coming
ElementalMaker use your homepage if you’re using the app
Do you also have a link for the German "amazon.de" page?
Not many people improve tools they borrow for a long time. Usually come back in a worst shape nowadays. Shows your a man of honour, really respect that.
As an older woman your continuing contribution to TH-cam is exemplary. With your busy TH-cam schedule i have no idea where you find the time to keep your hands so well manicured.
The secret is lava bar soap. Dirt cheap, and simply removes the first layer of skin, keeping everything looking fresh.
ElementalMaker I am unworthy, the first rule in skincare is exfoliating, I should have known. My bad
I tried a belt sander before but that was a bit too messy. Lava is the ticket 👌
You actually did it properly with the converter. I simply would have chugged 2 cells in series (or 2 pairs in series) in that thing and hope for the best :P
Great video, Is there a parts list and diagram you could supply?
This worked great! I used two lithium 18650 in series and moved the charging circuit to replace the innards of an old paslode battery charger station. If using parallel cells they need to be matched cells or else they need load balancing. I found the contacts were soldered to the nicad terminals so I pried them off, soldered them to wires, then bent them over the ends of the black spacer and riveted thru the spacer to the part of the contacts on the inside, then folded the contacts back over. This saved me waiting for new batteries. Time will tell if the 7.4V will fry the igniter. But it works now. May order a buck converter to be safe. I am using batteries from battery space with protection pcb built into the pack.
Hey Eric. I’m considering doing what you described. How’s the circuitry/spark plug holding up with the 7.4v? Also can you describe how you adapted the charger to work with the 2s 18650 cell pack you added?
@@user-jx2zz4lb5d sorry I'm late! I just connected the terminals of the battery housing to an RC charger that could charge two cells in series (2S). Its held up fine so far. The 18650s charge to 4.2V each, so I'm actually running 8.2V through. Not the best idea. Better to do it right. Single 18650 with buck boost converter and a large capacitor to deliver however many amps it needs. But so far my simple approach works fine.
vtc2 18650 batteries are amazing. they hold a charge and pump the power.
I love tool enhancements! Badass!
Thats a cool frankenfix. Just really cool.
The Big Clive patented vice of knowledge. Nice 👍👍
All the big clive videos I've watched I've never seen his vise! I need to watch some more of his stuff if that's the case
@@ElementalMaker It only comes out on very special occasions.📸
Anytime I say "Ah good old" (insert random object here) I'm like jeez I sound like elemental maker 😂😂
You need to start manufacturing these !
Happy your posting again I love your vids looking forward to more rockets
New curative should be delivered today! My progress with the composite motors was halted when my curative froze and wouldn't work anymore. Rocket motor videos soon!
New curative just got delivered! Time to get experimenting again!
You're = you are
Your = belongs to you
Excellent video! Love modifications like that!
Great improovement! The original battery housing looks like it was designed to be improofed with a pair of 18650s :D
Those Paslode Nicad batteries are my bain.
Was thinking of converting the thing to use four AA battereis.
Not any more. Your idea is great and all us old Paslode owners should be bowing at your feet
Ordering the bits now.
I presume the switch goes between the board and the battery positive
Glad you like the idea. Man it's been a while since I did this, but I think I put the switch right in line with the battery, so it does need to be switched on to charge. I've been using this battery for a few years now and it's still working great. Lasts forever too.
@@ElementalMaker I used to mess around with electronics but that was some years ago (fixing car alarms and VCRs).
Have just ordered the identical board to yours.
Ah, the "Vice of Knowledge!"
And an "Eeeee, Click."
Good day.
Fan of Big Clive?
@@BensWorkshop I think it likely that our subscriptions overlap more than thrice.
@@matthewellisor5835 the other two you know of being?
@@BensWorkshop Okay, I'll give it a go.
Obviously we're already here with EM and covered Big Clive.
AvE
Cody'sLab
Project Farm
This Old Tony
Great Scott
The 8-Bit guy
Scott Manley
Bosnianbill
standupmaths
The Action Lab
How To Make Everything
Tom Scott
Shawn Woods
singingbanana
SmarterEveryDay
Applied Science
Please share any that you think the algorithm missed for my recommendations!
@@matthewellisor5835 there's only 6 I recognise, but that's a lot of crossover. Cheers for letting me know.
Super glue and baking soda is a great combination for bonding across seams or breaks, but I'm sure you've probably heard of it before. It is an awesome go to for rigid bonding...
One of my favorite combos right there!
That is one of the most useful things I've ever learned. I don't understand why they don't write it on the tube. For many applications it is better than epoxy and it sets so hard and so quick you can file it within minutes. For this particular application tho I reckon the solvent would've been far better.
I love it when you get a win, dude. Keep it up.
A win for any of us is a win for all of us!
Well done repair job! :) That's the way to go!
I guess I'll be doing this to both of my framing nailer batteries now.
In hindsight one thing I recommend doing is using PCB protected 18650 cells. I didn't realize the boost converter circuit I used didn't have low voltage protection built in.
@@ElementalMaker ahhhhhh. Damn those really suck though. Although like you said, these Paslodes don't really need much for current.
Always neat to see these franken-repairs work. Might be cool in a future video to see if one of these butane/electric tools could be converted into a BB gu ... er... (cough youtube algorithm cough) projectile launcher.
Incredible work/job
Thank you Rob!
This was great man, thank you I enjoyed it.
What could I get the booster out of? Or do you absolutely have to have one? I don't know alot about that stuff but I have the exact same issue going on with my battery so I figured I would try this before I bought a new one
I used an off the shelf circuit from amazon. I have a link to the one I used in the video description. Still working great today!
This is premium content!
Excellent! Thanks for I need to do this....
Ok so after a long delay I got one built.
* Finer gauge wiring is no use - Paslode wont work with it. Used 0.75mm wire in the end.
* Vaping batteries are 2 amp/hr so only needed one.
* Used a rocker switch to give clear indication that the battery is isolated.
* Fastening everything in place was done with hot-glue gun.
* Material costs = £14.80
* It will power up an IM350 but it is struggling to get enough power for the fan.
Back to the drawing board.
I really like your videos, especially the rocket motor videos. Will you put out any more of those soon?
Yessir! A new bottle of curative should be delivered today! My progress with the composite motors was halted when my curative froze and wouldn't work anymore. More rocket motor videos soon!
@@ElementalMaker Please keep 'em coming! My 2yo made his first motor (okay, it was a matchstick... But come on, he's 2) last week and the 4yo broke her record for both Isp and Apogee with a sugar alcohol fuel and Potassium-based oxygen source.
You reference AvE but we all know you're the same person or twins or something.
LOL I promise no relation. Thats a huge compliment though, thank you.
Maybe. Maybe not. Was your father a traveling salesman?
@@ElementalMaker If you *were* related, you be more the more costly of the two, you being US-based and all ;P
Someone say Japanese Hank Hill?
Na you can tell this model's settings are set to merca whilst the others set to Canadian same model different settings
I'm in the middle of this, and I'm trying to figure out how you got the board to stay in place. I was thinking hot glue, but I'm worried that it will come lose with repeated mini usb insertions/removals. Any tips?
I think I did just use industrial grade hot glue, but yeah I think the household stuff would loosen up with enough bumps. A non corrosive silicone or even a thick non conductive epoxy would work great. Something like bsi clear epoxy with some fumed silica to thicken it up
@@ElementalMaker Thank you!!!
Bloody Brilliant. 👍
Nicely done.
Cheers.
Great job, though I wouldn't wonder around with just the battery, it looks like a detonator for something bad :)
Would love to do this to my old Makita drill batteries... but then again I've already got a good porter cable.
Do you have a product number or reference for the circuit board you are using thanks great vid!
Nice mod there. You have me worried a little with the ring on and batteries out. Not that a lot of guys like to take there rings off. But for safety you do need to protect it from any live power.
That's a good point. I'm usually pretty good about taking it off but must have spaced that day.
@@ElementalMaker Maybe do a PSA on what can happen if you bridge the contacts on a charged pack with a ring. I think that there are a lot of people that don't know how much energy those cells can dump very quickly. If you really want to show some juice flowing try some wet cell NiCad batteries . When I was taking my A&P classed and we were doing NiCad battery packs we had to remove all metal and even take the wrenches we were using to unbolt the cells. The newer Lithium batteries are even worse. they can and will bite you if given the careless chance. Then there is careless dieign that can cause a pack to go up in flames. For battery explosions this one is a good show of just how bad it can get. th-cam.com/video/WdDi1haA71Q/w-d-xo.html
This is some of the coolest shit I've ever seen. Thanks alot
Super cool stuff
Its a perfect remodeling! How to get an info about components used for this, please? An electronic module, a switch and a compatible Li cells? It`s a very interesting. I`d like to do the same
nice fix. keep the vidz coming thanks.
Bad ass!!! Awesome work!
Are you going sell these converted bats
Given enough space, I would have built a small N/O limit switch into the side of the battery enclosure, so that the boost converter is only under power when the battery is inserted into the tool.
Very solid idea!
Outstanding!
Amazing, I’ve been wanting to do that.
Can you do a new video, adding a dewalt battery gauge in the top.
Made one and it works great! Question about charging, though - Do you know how I can prevent overcharging the cells? The Amazon listing says the circuit board won't prevent overcharging, so I'm worried that I might cause the batteries to explode if I leave them on a charger too long.
The circuit I used had a built in charging chip that stopped charging when the cells were fully charged. Are you using the same circuit?
@@arbour0713 I dont believe that answer is correct, as far as I know this circuit will prevent overcharging. I dont believe is has discharge protection built in though, so it could overdischarge the 18650's and essential ruin the cells. Definitely do your own research, but again I'm pretty sure this circuit automatically stops charging (given the red light for charging, and the green light for charged).
IS THEIR any way you could rig the battery to also use the old charger
Unfortunately not with the circuit I used. It could definitely be done though
Nice job man. 👍
This a good modification however, apparently the module used here doesn't offer discharge protection which may leave you with a useless battery if over discharged. Remember, lithium batteries can't be over discharged. I would add that kind of protection to the battery itself to avoid any headache. Besides, advice to charge the two batteries separately to fully charged before connecting them because if they're not balanced at least you you can be 60 to 70% sure they're not going to be unbalanced within a few charging discharging cycles, because the module doesn't offer balanced charging either.
Greets.
Pretty slick there. No worries about your house, it's going back your buddies, right? 😉
Great idea!
You could start a line of branded steel containers for storage of any suspect electronics. I know i've been in need on many occasions.
Old metal amm0 boxes with a vent hole drilled in them are the ticket!
Where do you acquire your recycled laptop batteries. Been looking for a local source
I find them at the recycling bin at local hardware stores. Just ask for permission
Well done.
How is the battery holding Up after all this time?
Is there any reason you used a momentary switch instead of a rocker switch?
John Truong It's a locking switch.
Tell me, can Sodium be put into a coffee grinder with oil to prevent oxidation, ground into a fine grit and used to make a thermite?
Yes that would work in theory, but would be super difficult to pull off.
AvE sounds weird today
wait... how? what?
youtube bamboozled me
I have a question, laptop batterys, are they all the same type of battery In different countries? I have one ready to take apart, I live in the US, from what I could tell on your video they are not marked, What do you think I can expect? Thank you in advance.
They are typically made in Japan, Korea, (or China for the cheaper ones). The cells are marked but it's just simple printing that wasn't visible on camera. Different mfgs use different types of batteries within the 18650 form factor, whether they be different mfgs, capacities, chemistries etc
@@ElementalMaker I just took them out of the case and it has 2 rows of numbers and letters, the top row has LGABC41865 and The 2nd row has P040B098AK That is all it has on the whole battery, They are larger than regular batteries and they all seemed to be at 3.6 and 3.4 and 3.6 volt's. Is that voltage normal for this type of battery?
thank you.
Here are all the specs on the LG batteries. I would guess that the other batteries are identical specs as MFG's shouldn't mix and match differing cells. secondlifestorage.com/showthread.php?tid=2319 Please do your research before moving any further, as 18650's store ALOT of energy, and if you short one it can cause alot of damage or a fire.
@@americanrebel413 Ah gotcha. That second number is probably just manufacturer batch number info. Yes that voltage is in the normal range. Check that page I sent you, it has all the critical info for the battery. All 18650's have a max voltage of 4.2 and a safe discharge limit around 2.8. Any lower than that and the cell will be damaged. Be careful with old laptop batteries though, they can have high internal resistance and sometimes ezplode or catch fire. You really need to know what your doing when it comes to lithium ion batteries or bad shit will happen.
@@ElementalMaker thank you my friend, I appreciate your help.
Ahhh now it makes sense why you were looking at tab welders lol
you should have tried some 40t or 40Q 21700 batteries. 3.7 volts at 4000MAH
A lot of quality screwing going on here.....
Quality screwin is all I do!
if those batteries are 18650's full charge is 4.2 (risk exploding at any higher voltage) down to 2.5 (risk exploding at any lower voltage) with nominal being 3.7 and they can pump out CRAZY current... 4 of them in series fully charged can easily start your car several times
So what happens when your buddy forgets and shoves that battery in the nicad charger? Boost board goes boom?
I added an 1n5004 in series with the positive battery terminal, so that way if he puts it on the charger it wont even recognize it, and could never backfeed into the circuit board. Unfortunately I did a double punch and didn't record that bit.
what would have happened, had you put the new cells in without the controller (just an 'out'-plug connection for a suitable charger?). Is it worth a try? Great vid, thanks!
Would probably fry the electronics in the Paslode. Definitely wouldn't try that
@@ElementalMaker sorry to be annoying - (due to being new to these things, perhaps), I can't find anything that looks to be a suitable equivalent adjustable output board on eBay UK, nor on Amazon UK - are there any you know of available from European sites?
@@gurglejug627 Not sure, I've seen them on aliexpress though. Not sure if you can order from there. Search for "Charger boost board"
@@ElementalMaker Thanks for your help - much appreciated. I think it's this one (for other European users) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1S-1A-USB-3-7V-Li-ion-Lithium-18650-Battery-Charger-Board-Boost-Step-Up-Module/253107094511?hash=item3aee5bc3ef:g:1CIAAOSwp7FaXb-6
@@ElementalMaker Have you ever tried replacing the batteries in an NiCd or NiMh DeWalt cordless drill/driver with Li-ions? DeWalt have built them so the carcass is very difficult to restuff, and the clip is part of a seperate moulding, (but nothing that can't be overcome) so would these little circuit boards handle enough power to work with the power drill? Is there a workaround, perhaps simply a bypass switch for work mode vs charging mode? So far I have been removing the batteries to recharge, using a good quality 18650 charger, a bit scared of charging them 'as a pack'. Could one charge a set of (from memory) 5 pairs with that little board, in situ? You probably know that DeWalt changed battery format rendering the older battery cartridges useless in their new range, though one can buy a converter on eBay. But as I have so many of them, I'd love to reuse the existing cartridges with new li-ions which I have loads of. I hope the question is of interest, and I know there are videos on it, but none when I last looked (a year ago) seemed really comprehensive and with full protection, and charger, as you used in the Paslode, which is why I'm interested in your opinion. Best wishes.
Have you done a video on methylene chloride? I think i'd like to be able to make two plastic things one. Would sure look better than my metal stickings togethers.
It's great stuff for bonding acrylic, abs, polycarbonate and some other plastics. Generally pretty nasty health wise though. If you can smell it, it's already dissolving your brain.
@@ElementalMaker that's why god made nose plugs. They're like ear plugs but different orifice.
It lives !
Now , the only way it could have been better is a light switch zip tied to the side for disconnect. Lol , honestly I'm impressed.
Now , return that poor senior citizen aged tool to your friend.
I need to convert some Dewalt 18 volt Nicads to lithium. Dewalt wants a small fortune for theirs.
Shit! I just threw out a load of knackered Paslode batteries - could have used the cases for your conversion.
and I just put my IM350 on Ebay Fek!
and I just bouight a portable compressor and a used pneumatic framing gun Fek fek!
Sounding like a Lewis Black sketch now.
Damn
Penny just dropped.
Thought it was odd that used Paslode nicad batteries were on Ebay. Might know why now.
how are you gonna charge the battery?
The circuit board I used has onboard charging circuitry and charges through the microusb.
Thats cool I love modern technology just 10yrs ago you couldnt really get those circuit boards and do shit like this, especialy since radio shack and heath went bankrupt
Thanks Tony! They're sweet little circuit boards. My only complaint is the quiescent current is higher than they stated, so I had to add that switch to keep the batteries from draining.
@@ElementalMaker dude chinesium leds wont turn off ,,, I have a bunch of harbor freight flashlights that I can find in the dark because all the leds softly glow while theyre off, and Ive seen it in at least 3 other things I own
Was that an ice maker I heard in the background at 6:32 ?? LOL
I don't have a clue what that was! I wish I had an ice maker in the garage. That would be perfect for a nice glass of scotch with an ice cube.
Man the hardware store I work at sells almost exclusively paslode. I was always wondering if it was worth it to use my company discount
They are absolutely awesome tools that are super reliable and high quality in my opinion. Only get them if you'll use them, but man I'm always renovating something in my house and using the Paslode.
3 NiCd cells = 3.6v but you set the converter in the final design to 6.4v. Am I missing something?
I was wrong when I said three. It was actually five nicad cells
@@ElementalMaker ok, that explains it. I just didn't want you to burn up your buddie's tool!
@@ElementalMaker then, 2 li-ion în series will work without any converter and even will use the original charger? What voltage the tool's charger actually supplies?
@@miketigra8995 wondering this as well. Could it take 7.4V?
Did I miss the bit where you put a fuse in it? :-P If you've ever short circuited an 18650 by accident you'll understand why I'm asking O.o
Lol yes they pack alot of power into those little cells.
Lithium ion battery get the chemistry nobel prize today (im not kiding) ! Coincidence ?
No way! That's pretty wild timing!
@@ElementalMaker I'm sure you are in the nobel prize committee... Can't be by chance
Awesomeness! Time to do some raping, and pillaging on some old dead battery powered tools I have laying around collecting dust. Thank you ElementalMaker for this video tutorial. If I don't respond to your next video, please know I blew myself up trying to go lithium ion. Lol
Just keep in mind this board cannot handle the current (amps) of a normal power tool like a drill. The only reason I could use this board was because of the low power requirements of the paslode since it gets its real energy from the gas cartridges. A drill might draw 300-400 watts, so at 18V that would be 15-20ish amps.
I literally have this nail gun, got it for like 20 brand new.
You got a Paslode for 20 bucks?! Please share your source with me, I need to get my own!
@@ElementalMakerunfortunately, it was a clearance item at a home depot, so it's more of a Johnny on the spot thing.
@@rockspoon6528 damn man you made out like a bandit! A pack of fuel cells cost just as much!
@@ElementalMaker can't you refill the fuel cells with disposable butane cylinders for camp stoves? You'd waste a lot but they are cheap as.
@@kirkc9643 I've always wanted to try refilling them, but can't find any info on what the gas actually is. I believe it's butane, but it could also have some lubricants added to keep the piston from binding. I don't want to mess up my buddies nailer.
nice! i gotta do this with my nicad dewalt drill, i abuse that poor thing.
Unfortunately this method wont be a direct fix for actual power tools, as the driver board I used only can deliver 2A max current, and a cordless drill uses much much more ( in the 15-20A range). The paslode is pretty low current which is why this worked here (max 1.3A draw). You might be able to find a high current boost converter that would work though. Or maybe just directly power from the 18650's if you can get the right voltage with some series cells, they would just need an undervoltage protection circuit.
@@ElementalMaker finally getting around to doing this, covid boredom. Thanks for the reply
Love your channel wish I could see more of your videos I don't know maybe you're making him a New York to TH-cam is just screwing me out of watching him I don't know but cool
Mate , unreal sh,t excell to intell over here in the land of oz they tip at $90 and still in old school , guess were still backward . cheers.
To much "inspiration" from AvE...
Ni-cd isn't a crappy technology, if you think so then you need to educate yourself. Ni-cd is very forgiving in charging and handling. For charging it only needs a constant current power supply instead of complicated monitoring circuitry, it never overheats while charging and tolerates mild overcharge unlike ni-mh and li-ion. It can provide a lot of current unlike ni-mh, doesn't need battery management systems and it doesn't explode or overheat quickly when overloaded or shorted unlike li-ion. It has it's potential while not needing much, making tools less complicated which means less likely to break and cheaper. It's only downsides are low energy density and memory effect, which can be avoided with just draining it to the correct voltage and charging only then. As an example in li-ion the BMS can be as expensive as half of the cost of entire pack despite being just a little circuit board, because it needs to handle high currents, provide protection and monitor charging with balancing.
Nice job!
If you borrow something for a year and a half, you buy your own!
Anyone selling converted batteries or converted kits on ebay?
Keep an eye on the capacity of the cells , as you can only charge at 0.5C (C being the capacity in Ah). Though many lapotop/salvaged batteries are still ok, a cheap capacity tester couldn't hurt. A cheap thermal switch glued to the cells can interrupt charging if they get hot. Always use a Li-ion charger (can be salvaged from a powerbank). cheers!
I did check the old makita 18650's on my Litokala to be sure the internal resistance of the cells and capacity was still in spec. They were still in good shape. The board I used here has onboard charging circuitry with a max charge current of 1A and max voltage of 4.2V, so perfect for an 18650. Given these are high drain batteries they could definitely be charged a bit faster though.
Hey man, if you need a tab welder to use, let me know. I think we are fairly local to each other. I'd be happy to help out. Email is in my about page.
vtc2 are 3000Mah
Noice
I drop a comment.
I drop a thank you 👍
No under voltage protection. Sketchy
Yeah I thought the board had undervoltage built in but it does not. I'm going add a separate protection pcb.
@@ElementalMaker Good to hear
Not first but still..
3rd
Your not a very good friend to have a tool a year and a half, if you need one that bad buy it or in this case buy a new one and give it to your friend and keep the one you wore out
Wow I bet your a blast at parties.
For $12 on Amazon a replacement knock off battery can be had .
1st!!
I wish you were my daddy.
Well that escalated quickly...
@@ElementalMaker Yeah, wait till what I have to say about my mommy.