Drop Bar Shimano CUES?...FAIL!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this video trying out the new Shimano CUES front derailleur on a drop bar using bar ends. Why did they screw with the cable pull?
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Hey all. After some comments and experimentation I found the source of excessive friction. It actually shifts quite well now with friction shifters! Yay. Will post an updated video after some more testing and tweaking. On another note, if you're interested in 3D printing your own shim, drwelby shared it on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:6619677
I received the exact same front derailleur today and in the box was a 28.6 mm adapter. Maybe you were just super unlucky and got a unit without one?
I'm really looking forward to the updated video about the source of excessive friction.
I haven't bothered to check to see if you've done any vids about MTB FD/ road shifter incompatibility before.
Seeing as how you're in Europe you can get the Jtek Shiftmate 7 from SJS Cycles in the UK even quicker and cheaper than (for example) one of the chosen people living Down Under. Then you can use any dreaded indexed drop-bar shifter with an MTB FD, and see how the Cues compares to... a new Alivio 'trekking' top-swing FD, for example. The FD-T4000-TS3 (or TS6 depending on chainstay angle spec) It's a 3x(9) and cheap as chips and guess what? It's specced as coming with a 28.6mm adapter!
The important thing about the Cues FD for future build options is its ring-combo capacity. The 16t in your model and 14t in the rest. The 14t models also have the wider chainline reach for boost rigs. (The 2x Alivio FDs which only come in side-swing have separate models for the boost chainlines.) You won't get trick offset with a shim on larger seat-tubes.
If you want to fight the 'good fight' against designed-incompatibility then it's good to highlight the usefulness of offerings from Shimano, not highlighting negatives which are exaggerated.
You're NEVER going to 3D print all the components needed for equipment like bikes. As much as blinkered techno optimists perpetuate fairy-tales about future material realities, the industrial processing required for strong long-lasting artefacts will remain.
Large-scale manufacturing's economy of scale enables conservation of resources, and hence affordable options for poor people like me.
You want your boutique beauties and your global bicycle tourism for non-elites who want to fly around the world with their bikes (and we all know how I did it when I was a young bicycle courier in 95 living at my girlfriend's mum's place, and I went from NZ to Colorado for a four month MTB trip) but you gotta get real about what makes it possible for that to happen. Especially as we've passed the zenith of that paradigm.
Otherwise one's just an 'alt' w**ker doing bike industry w**ker s**t. That's a 2x w**ker.
Thus spoke the 2x Climbing Machine Warrior King.
Maybe a bit unrelated but I work as a bike mechanic and I have the theory that having housings pointing up is usually not the best idea since any humidity can fall there, rust what's on the way, stay there and continue the process thus icreasing friction. Maybe I'm wrong idk
I have watched for years, and I feel like the channel has established its biases enough that you can ignore the comments that have ignored your brand… and maybe not even call anyone out.. you deserve to own your opinion and I don’t think you need to acknowledge the haters… or even me.. ❤
Yeah no need to bring attention to the grumpy mf's
@5:15, the shim. Brilliant way to offset/onset the chainline. It could only offer a few mms, but sometimes that's enough to get a front mech (especially triples) to engage the most inward chainwheel.
yea! that's a genius solution!
Anybody with a lathe and a 4 jaw chuck can knock one up out of delrin/nylon or aluminium. I've been making them for a few years now on my lathe.
Russ, another great video. Thank you for the mention! I'm glad you found our Bridgeclub video series interesting. I'm pretty happy with the Cues front derailleur on the Bridgeclub. I think the front load provides a very smooth pull.
Pro tip: sections of old inner tube make great shims, super grippy and less likely to slip than the hard plastic ones. I use this set up on my handlebar phone holder. Not sure how it would work with an FD, but I think it would be fine, just trim a nice section of tube with scissors.
Thanks! I agree with your philosophy almost every time and you're a great source of info for me. Wish I could give more. May the wind always be at your back.
Shift it a bunch even when you don't need to. Don't hide from it's current unpleasant stiffness just yet. See if you can break it in. Maybe it is the geometry but it's still a simple device that's not doing much force-wise. I'm betting the friction mostly comes from newly robot machined/manufactured parts. I'll be riding my 35 year old mtb today with the original 3x shimano gear set and the front shifts like butter. I actually use it a lot in the local hills, (all three front chain rings),. Newly machined/manufactured parts often free up a bit with use, (and grease),. That's my theory anyway. Cheers.
I replace 3x7 with 2x9 CUES on the old KHS Urban X bike, have 40/26 chainring , side front derailleur, also CUES shifters, like it a lot, front shifter works great
I recently got a Sword front derailleur, and it shifts my 38/24 crank perfect. Imma try to put a 40 on it and see if it works.
I just checked that out on TH-cam. Very interesting. They incorporate a number of great and obvious features.
I like 3 chainrings as often I can merely shift from 52 to 42 and leave cassette in place. ✌️
What I took away from this video is that bike manufacturers are changing stuff so that it won't work on older bikes. This planned obsolescence may force some to buy new bikes. I guess there will come a day when a needed part is just not available.
Or don’t be an ED
Thanks for the hard yards on providing wealth of retro info! Love this stuff, only the truly passionate bike riders sort through these nuances.
Cheers
Great job. I appreciate the honest opinion on the FD. Keep up the good work!
Always glad to see the return of The Place of Bad Ideas.
Really terrific to see product reviews and hacks again.
Agree about poorly labeled derailleurs for H&L.
I have an older Shimano Ultegra triple running as a 42/30 double (inspired by your videos) and with a Claris front derailleur which is surprisingly fast and accurate.
I'm hanging on to all my old parts if CUES is where we're at.
Thanks for pointing out all the issues like the clamp diameter.
When they moved from pushing 3x10 to 2x10 drivetrains for MTBs, Shimano increased the shift force dramatically for rear derailleurs too. I have no idea why - possibly because they thought the notchy heavy shifting from SRAM setups was what customers wanted, but it means the shifting on my old 3x10 drivetrain bike blows me away when I hop on that bike after using the 2x12 Shimano and 1x12 SRAM setups on a couple of my other bikes. 2x12 has the best front derailleur shifting I've ever used. It feels a little lighter than a 3x front derailleur, but not by much. Thankfully they still sell 3x10 Shimano drivetrains as XT Touring, but with 48-38-24 rings IIRC, so the chainset looks a bit off after swapping to 44-32-24 rings - thankfully they're the normal MTB standard 4 bolt BCD, so plenty of cheap chainring options.
More cable for the same movement should theoretically require less force on the cable and shifter mechanism which might be part of the reasoning for the change. I've seen a lot of front derailleurs that take way too much force to actually move between chain rings.
I recently got a 3d printer it is awesome! Especially for bike stuff. I needed a Suntour sus fork top cap removal tool and was able to print one in about half an hour!
I 3D print a lot of bike parts and it's an amazingly versatile tool. Shims, adapters, tools, jigs, mounts, and on and on. I tell people that 3D printers are the new cordless drill for must have tools. I never thought plastic would be included in my thoughts about sustainability but here I am, saving things from the landfill by printing repairs.
3d printers are good to print prototypes, I have designed stuff only to print the object and find I made a mistake. The finished CAD design then gets sent to a laser cutting service.
Great vid Russ! I agree , why make the pull different!? I was wondering about the cues fd, now I know to stay away lol. Just set up my Brodie commuter / touring bike with 42/30 , (9 speed)11-36, Claris FD and Sora RD, Shimano bar end friction shift. Keep the vids coming man, nothing wrong with tinkering 👍
It was worth trying! It's one of the setups that I had considered, although the lack of compatibility with older standard components is unattractive.
The cable angle coming out of the clamp on housing stop looks really sharp and is probably at least part of the reason you're having to put in so much force.
it's the angle come out of the BB cable stop where an angle could cause friction. Russ didn't move that cable stop & the friction would be very close to the same as with the 8sp derailleur.
@@GeekonaBike The 8 speed derailleur has its clamp much higher up than the CUES one so the angle it entered the derailleur was much shallower. You can see the almost 90 degree bend the cable has to make @11:43 coming out of the housing stop.
@@DavidEO577should the cable come more from the right or left for better shifting
@@bakerk5030 If you're looking from the back of the bike the cable should be coming out more to the right. But it's also the height of the clamp on housing stop that @PathLessPedaledTV is using that makes it so the cable doesn't have very much length between coming out of the housing and entering the derailleur.
Thank you for the video. Good to know. I did order another pair of sora levers. I did get the rear derailer, I did forget the front derailer. I’m going to order the sora front derailer with my next paycheck just to have an extra one just in case. Good review and good to know. Thank you.😊
Is Cues derailleur compatible with Sora shifters ?
Ditch that Clamp-on Cable Stop.
it's putting a really dumb bend in the cable really close to where it meets the F Der.
instead have a cable stop up on the down tube (see downtube shifter bosses) then run the cable naked all the way down and loop under the bottom bracket.
way less friction.
Since 10x, Shimano has screwed with the cable pull for the last few generations -- simply because they are evil. Then again, Shimano 3x9 XTR was the best transmission they ever made, so I simply run this setup on most of my bikes.
"Apparently", Shimano Increased the cable pull for both front and rear derailleurs so that there is less shifting error should the gear cables and housings stick and do not produce the same results.
Shimano's previous 2:1 ratio (which is actually 1.7:1) results in the derailleur moving 1.7mm per 1mm cable movement. If the cable pull has a variation of + - 0.2mm, the derailleur's movement can technically vary from 1.36mm to 2.04mm, a 0.68mm range of deviation. (which can be the difference between present or absent chain rub in FDs)
If the ratio was 1:1 for example, the derailleur would also only be having + - 0.2mm deviation.
If anything, I'm not bothered about attempts to make shifting "better" for beater, less-maintained bikes. I just hope they eventually settle on a universal shift ratio.
Finally! Finally someone who hints me a good reason for the cable pull change. Prevents me from having to feel angry at corporations once again. I agree that overcoming high cable friction instead of obtaining low cable friction wouldn‘t be my top priority. I value the intention, though.
Anyway, I hope Shimano engineered the mechanical advantage in their cues front derailleurs in such a way that they still allow good old bar-end shifting with relative ease. Having to produce substantially more thumb/hand force for an up-shift should be a no-no. I d like to hear another report regarding to this. Maybe it is just bad cable routing in Russ‘ case. Another commentator mentioned that apperently the bare cable (leaving the clamp-on housing stop) now goes to the front derailleur at a greater angle than with the old 8-speed fd.
@@tillman5529 Yes, since his down-pull cable housing stop sits at the seat tube (rather than the traditional plastic cable guide/channel attached to the bottom of the BB, there is a greater change in exit angle of the cable, which is now possibly rubbing on either the ferrule or the housing stop itself. The effect is exacerbated by the fact that his Cues FD is a low clamp construction, putting the pivots closer to the BB. (unlike his braze-on 8-speed FD which has a similar position to a top-clamp FD). Bottom-pulls should always be paired with a top-clamp/braze-on FD.
This is why I much prefer top-pull setups paired with bottom-clamp FDs: overall the least exit angle plus the end of the cable housing faces down so it doesn't become a catch-bucket for water and grit.
@@avocette Good cable route design seems to be a difficult exercise. The Soma Smoothie HP is a good example for a poorly designed cable routing IMHO.
Currently, I am trying to remedy a rather poor brake cable routing design on a 1993 Kona Kilauea (cantis front and rear). Front brake housing wants into a cable stop brazed to the bottom of the stem, but smooth bends are only possible via some sort of looping. Not enough, rear brake cable is open along the top tube and at the seat tube it is routed through a so called ‘dog collar’ which guides it around the seat tube. The aluminium collar slowly wears out under years of braking and a replacement collar is now nearly unobtainium. (Admittedly a liner probably would have prevented or attenuated the amount of wear. Liner was missing though).
Are you sure you're not talking about rear derailleur's only? FD's actually had the same exact cable pull ratio as the older RD's? What is the FD cable pull ratio for the new 11sp/4700 FD, which needs more than previous road? What is the FD cable pull ratio for MTB FD, which has always been different from [older] road?
@@tillman5529 Don't forget to take into account that Shimano MTB FD and Road FD have always had a different cable pull ratio. I wonder if this is the first time Russ is trying to use an MTB FD.
I have a 90s mountain bike I’ve done the trendy thing with and turned into a “gravel bike” with Jones bars and tires etc.. but it has my old Deerhead friction shifters (they are 38 years old) and is 7 speed with the M310 derailleurs. On my other bike, a VO Neutrino I have Shimano Zee 10 sp. with trigger shifters. I find I change gears using the Zee very frequently in urban riding but with the friction shifters I hardly change gears on trails because it requires a ton of force plus changing hand position so my cadence and effort on the pedals varies a lot more.
You are the authentic back to the future! Funny how 2x is coming back and why oh why do the manufacturers have to complicate life forcing us to make groupset decisions. Bring back the fabulous derrailleurs from the end of the eighties, simple, lite, durable and they still work great 35 years later! OK, maybe add a few things like a damper clutch 😊
I think it depends on your needs. Unless you have a higher end groupset with lots of gears a 1x always seems like a compromise if you want a decent range. I definitely prefer a front deraileur for the range combined with not too big a jump between sprockets.
Linkglide (wide) chains & cassettes are used with Cues, also compatible with e-bikes, that's why the front cage is wider
Linkglide chains are not wide, only the cassettes are. The chains are standard 11 speed.
@@marcpfister9414 I've heard but can't confirm the shifter pull ratio changed. So cassette - same width with thicker teeth and possibly a new parallelogram design with shifter to match?
@@marcpfister9414 Correct, but the Linkglide cassettes are only wider at the base, not the teeth, so they are similar to Hyperglide in that regard. And that's why the Linkglide LG500 chains work on all 11 speed systems. (So I hear, I haven't actually measured the cassettes myself.)
@@watertankhikes I didn't say the teeth were wider. The cassette in total is slightly wider.
Thanks for doing these proof of concept tests, so I don't have to. Making things work beyond its intended use is always interesting and revealing.
Personally I'm happily stuck to an old 3x9 Ultegra setup which is fully compatible to MTB parts and there is plenty of old stock available - it just works!
Maybe in addition to cage width and a different cable pull ratio, Cues might have a stronger spring, making it harder to shift but having better shifting from big to small under load.
Changing the FD pull makes sense if they wanted to follow the trend of what they did with the RD cable pull. More pull for same sideways displacement means lower conversion ratio and less force.
Thanks! I very much enjoy your approach to gearing and to cycling in general. My initial thought about changing from the old Shimano 2:1 pull ratio to the new CUES 1:1 ratio is that, while the movement required in the shifter should increase, the new mechanical advantage should REDUCE the force required at the shifter. Of course, my oversimplification doesn't address the myriad other factors that could be involved. Any idea why you're seeing increased requirement for force at the shifter?
Until Shimano releases brifters for Cues I just use the MTB shifter on the tops of my drop bar and it works great, not awkward at all, especially compared with downtube shifters
how do u mount them, aren't drop bars diameter 23.8mm instead of 22.2mm on flat bars
Is new better or is it just new ? wonderful statement, goes for so many things if your car runs well and is durable and dependable enough to get you to where you wanna go, why would you ever need another car car. If your bike is comfortable enough and dependable enough, and in some cases quick enough, it doesn’t matter if you’re riding Dave’s bike from breaking away
Cues are design to use with MTB/E-bike parts. In your case your crankset is for road bike with narrow Q-factor, works but not ideal. Shimano changes the pull ratio to keep this FD compatible with BOOST hubs, wider BB and I think you can use this FD on triple crank sets without problems(I've not tested it yet). Thank your for your nice review.
Woah... The 3d printed shim to adjust chainline is such a great idea!!!
I had ‘97 GF MTB 3x8, with, I want to say, deore. Replaced original front derailleur with acera some kid at sports basement found in a box of used items and shim. Grip shifter not indexed to 3 positions, but discrete to like 5 or so positions.
Point is, Shimano was rock solid and I could not only get it to work, but work well. They didn’t used to play games with all of this special compatibility. I’ve moved on to SRAM 1x12 drive train on newer bike, and yes the tolerances are tighter there. But the crank almost hitting front derailleur is something I never even fathomed on a 26” MTB.
I’m rooting for Shimano to get their shit together because quality up and down the line was something I always preach to people about Shimano. Deore has a special place in my heart as I had it on few 26” bikes and the shit just worked.
Best shifting I ever had was 105 5800 FD with FSA chainrings.
Because steel bikes still aren’t as common as aluminum and carbon fiber in greater bike universe. I usually get the braze on version and buy a separate 28.6 clamp
Not surprised that the tried and true 8 speed front mech worked better in your application. Bike and component design peaked (for the average bike user) a long time ago. I guess Shimano has to find a way to make money somehow
My easiest/smoothest shifting FD so far has been a Shimano STX one, that uses the newer style actuation. It just shifts really smoothly, unfortunately had to swap the FD though, because it interfered with the fenders when I went down (or actually up??) to a 42 largest chainring (because the clamp and parallelogram are lower than in a traditional style FD).
You should make a tempo tranquilo stem cap!!
Hi/Lo adjustments on the front can really make a difference. One time I had to make a 180km ride to get my bike home and the front shifter cable snapped. I forced the front into high and kept riding.
Is the extra force required to make the shift due to it being brand new vs. the 8 speed it replaced potentially being 20 - 30 years old?
I, too, find the cable pull change suspicious - Shimano doesn't seem to have made any comment about why the Cues pull is different, e.g. benefits, engineering decisions. I do imagine they consulted bike manufacturers concerning the most common tube sizes they needed to provide shims for.
My town bike just has the lowest end Tourney front deraileur on it (with a slightly needless triple - I'd prefer a compact) and it always shifts just fine. Not the smoothest or quicket gear change in the world, but it never fails to engage and never rubs. Cost online: just £12.99.
The sharp angle between your cablestop and the front derailleur is causing a lot of friction
Your 8 speed Claris derailleur is a Road Double. That Cues derailleur is a Mountain Double with a wider chainline. The cable pulls have been different for a LONG time. MicroSHIFT makes a bar end shifter for a Mountain Double front Derailleur. Also, no shims for skinny tubing makes sense since modern Mountain Bikes don't use them. I think you're complaining about stuff because you bought the wrong thing. My .02
With that said, I always enjoy your content. Keep doing it. Cheers.
I have a wide range 2 x 9 setup with an Advent 11-42 cassette, derailleur and rear shifter, a PC-951 chain, and a Biopace 42/28 double on a Sora triple crank. I was running an Altus front der with a Suntour friction thumbie, but the cage was too wide and hesitated before overshifting. I swapped in a new Cues fd-u400 without even needing to take the cable end off, and the cage shape is perfect - it shifts perfectly. I’m as surprised as the next hacker.
My next step is to get the cheap stamped steel 40/26 crank and see if I can get it to work with the 11s derailleur and 9s 11-46 cassette - I know it won’t be perfect, but I have a feeling it’ll be close enough for jazz
@@robbikunkle4700mixing cranks was never an issue. But why should you, when your sora-cranks ate working.
@@RazzFazz-Race the old rings probably won’t work great with the linkglide chain spacing. My quest is to see how large a cassette I can get to work with a double crank. My current range (between the 42x11 high gear and the 28x42 stump puller) is 573%; with the 11-46 and a 40/26 double, the range goes to 643%. I know there comes a point of diminishing returns, but I just love knowing I can get 50lbs of groceries up the hills on the way home even if I’m tired.
More cable pull should, in theory, cause the "stretch" to be less significant and as such, keep the system working more reliably with less frequent adjustments, if any. Advantages of short pull would be momentum (less mass moving a distance), so theoretically faster shifting, and also smaller cams resulting in smaller packages for shifters. Other than that, longer pull is a more reliable system. It takes cable housing wear ("stretch") out of the equation.
I recently built a steel bike and noticed that SRAM genuine front derailleur clamp for AXS doesn't support 28.6 diameter as well. Had to buy one from the Problem Solvers.
hmm idk... I'm just not sold on it. Especially being used to New Old Stock and vintage used Shimano parts that have treated me SO well (also the compatibility), probably going to be a no for me trying Cues.
Great video bud. Here we say: Vamos para atrás como los cangrejos. There will be "old" front derailleurs available for years so we don't need to worry yet about Cues or other modern stuff compatibility.
I like your bottle cages. They look like the Silcas but I'm sure you found a much more economical alternative, what brand are they?
I'm Fred enough that I would put open ended stubby bar ends inside the hoods and mount my friction shifters there in thumb reach. I finally got a bike with indexed gears and had to step off the bike to figure out how to upshift. Oh wow a second trigger!
Russ, why don't you use a Shimano 11 speed XT front derailleur with your bar end shifter. They are easy to find and also less costly than the road derailleurs. I bought some for less than $20 US dollars that are new in the box. Keep up the great work.
Where I can find STL file of that clamp? It's brilliant solutions for my problems.
Altus front derailleur is Perfect for 40T chainring. I'm using it with Deore 40/30/22 crankset.
Perhaps you should grab a Deore front derailleur while you can. I have one on my Masi Giramondo and it shifts flawlessly with my triple and Microsoft friction shifter.
More Cable Pull
well, MTB front ders have already had longer cable pull than Road
which has the benefit of less sensitivity to mud and contamination of the cable housing.
So, if cues is bringing that to road, that's a nice thing. Makes the bike more tolerant of neglect.
kinda makes sense for a low/mid level group.
Hi Russ. Can the spring tension be adjusted? Is it just that you are used to the weaker spring tension on your old derailleur?
Try injecting a fair bit of WD 40 through the long outer casing and re grease the cable to see if that helps . Amazing how it can affect the lever action pull some of the time..
I've been using an XT M770 front dereailer since 2009👍👍
Im still using a Deore FD made in the '80s! I still use plenty of ancient Shimano parts older than that!
@rollinrat4850 That's amazing. If you take care of components, they'll last a long time🤘🤘
@@glen3509 I dont think Ive done anything to my old front derailleurs besides a drop
of oil on the pivots every several years. I dont let my bikes stay really dirty though.
I think its more important learning how to shift properly and how to set them up. None of my set ups are stock or match.
Front derailleurs can be much more time consuming to get to shift right than the rears, especially when you mix up different parts that werent designed as a system. This Deore in particular is really easy and friction shifters are key to easy, excellent front shifting.
Its great on my 20/34/44 offroad touring rig.
On MTB double cranks I like the newer Deore M616. I use 24/42 on my gravel rig. 20/38 on the mtb I use for rough back country bike packing. They work perfectly. But it took some experimenting to find one thats works on these oddballs.
@rollinrat4850 I'm using a complete M770, and M772 XT drivetrain👍👍
And an XTR 970 9spd. cassette with Hopefully the 4L cogs made from 6/4 Titanium 👍👍
Isn’t the point of these new systems is to buy the system. This was a reset for shimano, to have a more robust system to cover e-bikes. Hopefully Rivendale can get house brand Suntour design drivetrain.
Shimano does have 28,6 shims and if you bought the derailleur from a big German shop, you could add those to the basket and pay much less in total even considering shipping a bit less friendly than for domestic customers.
Did you mean Cues front derailleur?
@@Fetherko should you need shims for a Dura-Ace rear derailleur, you can have them too.
Not that it matters, but just a quick note that the Ottawa bike shop you mentioned is located in Kansas (US) and not Ontario (CA).
are you talking about Ontario (Canada) or Ontario (California) 🤣
You can buy a clamp on adaptor for 28.6 that will allow a braze on derailleur to be bolted to it. Quick google showed many options.
Cues doesn’t come in braze on. So won’t work with any clamp adapters. Otherwise would have used the one on the bike.
I think friction shifting really does give power to the people to create their own iteration of kludge, for me I run friction 3x8 and a 1x10 on road bikes and they're very low stress to set up and maintain.
There is no point to use indexed front shifting on 2 or even 3 chainrings. For years, Ive used a ratcheting grip shifter on the left of my MTB.
Indexing only makes front shifting more complicated, often proprietary and much more difficult to tune.
Ive got friction shifters that are over 50 years old and still function perfectly. It works even better with 'modern' pinned and ramped gears.
RIDER, not the freakin bike! All we need to do is to learn to shift properly.
The Ottawa bike shop/video you mentioned is in Ottawa, Kansas (not Canada). Great bike shop, btw.
I don't get how the pull ration could have a huge effect on tension at the lever when the lever throw appears to be roughly the same? It seem the issue is more likely a stronger return spring, so maybe it'll get better over time. The same would be true if it's tight tolerance at the pivot points.A bit of lube might help there.
Unfortunately most products are being made in conjunction with one another, meaning that this derailleur is made to work best with a regular dual action lever. Anything else would be seen as a ‘compromise’
And on an sti lever you’ve got a large paddle to push on so it probably doesn’t require much effort when used with that.
What hoods do you have for the corner bar?!
@PathLessPedaledTV I guess you haven't had to run into this yet. There's at least 2 things in play here. Shimano MTB and road FD's have always had different cable pulls. That isn't something new for CUES. So far I haven't heard nor read that Shimano changed the FD cable pull for CUES from that of what MTB has always been. On top of that, Shimano also changed the FD cable pull (needs more) starting with Road 11sp and Tiagra 4700 double. (Tiagra 4700 triple is still the traditional cable pull as they couldn't or didn't want to make the front shifter pull across the full triple chain rings width with the new longer cable pull.)
14:00 carefully carry bike over stream - very dainty. i tend to just crash around the side on my MTB.😀
Well cues has the mtb throw not the road throw, shimano have a thicker shim I used one fitting an xt front mech to a trek 520 I used some chinease corner bars for the xt mtb shifters The corner bar and mtb shifters provide efrortless fingertip shifting I would say you should change your bar arrangements. There is a long cage XT touring spec mech for 10 speed that allows lower geared cassettes i run a 42 but you can run more teeth typical on a 1X
Creating unique pull ratios
As I understand they changed te cable pull so that all bike types would be compatible (read: road, mountain).
thoughts on essa?
Hello, thanks for the content, can you tell the name of the re-usable cable stops?
Forager.
So this is a flat bar group, meant to be used with trigger shifters. Because this doesn't work that well with bar-ends is not Shimano's fault!
After complaining about how hard my micro shift bar end shifters where stiff, finally a old bike mechanic told me drop the dura ace ultigra, go with xt, night and day, better crisp shifts, just sayen
Based upon this video, there are other, better options. I hope Shimano revisits this design so the company doesn't lose too much market share.
Yeah..... going to keep my old stuff for now. Crazy that you spent 47 euros on that(imo).
This one time, at band clamp........
I wish I'd watched your video using a friction shifter with a Box 9 mech before I bought a friction shifter to use with a Box 9 mech... You need arms like Popeye to move that bloody thing!
From your description, it seems like a niche product that likely won’t have good sales once the word gets around.
Perhaps they made something for the sale of making something.
Nice ❤
This one time, at band clamp...😁
Every low end Shimano front derailleur with a clamp should be 34.9mm with shims for 31.8 and 28.6mm - never seen one without them and any local bike shop have dozens of them left over in a pot
Why don't you route your bar end friction shifter under the bar tape? Looks way neater
making it follow the bars all the way up adds extra bends to the housing. I've run into situations where the extra resistance from doing that makes the shifting sloppy.
I've done mine. With jagwire pro housing. I didn't notice any significant tension difference than routed outside the tapes. Only run 1x7 though.
This should be in the Cave of bad Ideas!
The reason for extra cable pull is to make the old system obsolete.
Save the front derailleur
But not this one🤪
Strange. I would have thought that a longer cable pull would reduce the amount of force required to shift.
Though on second thoughts that's almost certainly just due to a stronger spring in the Cues FD.
Hey boo, you running Cues or did someone tape an Altoids tin to you seat tube?
I find it rather annoying…. In the 1970’s..80’s..90’s pretty much all front mech’s could be easily made to shift flawlessly. Now however,just don’t work as well!
"Bienvenidos a la cueva de las malas ideas." "Habitación" means "room." You're Spanish is improving!
I am in a room and its less like a cave :)
@PathLessPedaledTV I see. That makes sense.
Thumbs for Russ, thumbs down for Cues
Creating Unique ExperienceS 😅
With single ring front gearing the ramped chainrings are getting harder to find. I see you are not using a ramped chainring. You probably can't find a 40t.
The name says it all; Shima-NO! My luck their stuff never works right for me.
8:00 go 'cheap' - reuse, repair, recycle