As always thank you for your well thought out videos! My experience with saws and saw bar length is as follows. I've run stihl saws for 20+ years and have cut with everything from a 025 to my 066. My experience with short bars has resulted in a back ache! I have 3 Stihl Saws now, all set with the exact same chain size so I only have to keep up with one file size. 026 Pro - 20 inch bar, 046 Magnum - 25 Inch BAR, 066 - 25 -or 31 inch bar. The saw I use the absolute most is the 46 Magnum. It is 15+ years old and is an absolute work horse. I wind up reaching for it over the 026 pro for one reason alone! The 46 is very fast. I can reduce the cutting time on each log by more than 1/2 over the 026. I have several 18 inch bars and a dozen chains that I NEVER use. I reach for the 25 inch bar 046 because I can cut with the tip of the bar toward the ground without having to bend over completely. Weight to balance ratio is also much better for me with a longer bar. Just my experience. I process around 6-9 cords of hard wood oak per year. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!
You're young, but a wise & experienced young man. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.By the time you're my age, it kind of all goes out the window. It takes me 15 steps to do a project now, because I can remember only 1, or 2 things at a time. We do the best we can don't we. .
When it comes to great advice on cutting firewood, there is NO ONE I trust more that you! Thanks for the info! The comments are also great. I always wear ear and eye protection and usually wear a hardhat. When I was dropping 200 trees a year I also wore spiked forestry boots, chaps and a chain resistant jacket. I also used a professional, higher HP and low-vibration saw - great for cutting stumps off at ground level. Any like you I'll do almost anything to minimize the number of times I have to pick up the wood.
I know some people who survive on lawn jobs and firewood. I was told the county line wood splitter was the best investment they ever made after their John Deere tractor. Now of course there are X marks that have zero turn efficiency and can cut grass at 20 miles per hour. I am 62 and still split wood the old fashioned way because it keeps my vertebrae full of water and health. Maybe when I hit 80 I will need one. I lift weights every day but firewood is my love. I ran many marathons in the last five years including Boston Amsterdam and Stockholm where you are likely from. I grew up in Michigan working on a Christmas tree farm so chain saws are in my DNA. You make me want to try a Sthil again. I loved my farm boss but i overwhelmed it. My 066 is sitting under my ping pong table and will be used next summer. Any recommendations for the best Sthil product out there? Most of my firewood has been under roof for 20 years and it burns like magic. 90% of it is locust and burns so hot my Ashley which looks just like yours glows red. 20 years ago I built my own woodstove out of concrete and kept 3500 sq ft warm. But now it is just me and my wife and we heat only a small part of the house and I will not outlive my wood pile. Ok so my family lives into their late 90's but my momentum should keep me warm until 120 years old. I love your channel which doesn't say much about my coolness but I love Minnesota and its Swedish culture and am halfway through Vilhelm Moberg's writings. He is amazing. If you ever find yourself near Big Stone Gap, Virginia you can drool over my woodpile of super dry locust. I ran three 100 mile trail races the last five years and am anxiously awaiting next week's cross country ski race World Cup featuring the young girl from Minnesota who just won this week's preamble beating the German (I'm half German) in the amazing finish.
I bought two log tongs some years ago and they are worth every penny. Your legs can drag a lot more weight than you know, with a tong in each hand I can skid two pretty long pieces of wood at the same time and they are great to use around a splitter also.
so many good tips . i used to cut wood out of my chevy 3/4 ton 4by4 now i work out of my little ranger much easier to load and unload . what i do on wood cutting is i have 2 logs secured together 8 feet long sitting on saw horses . i load my truck with 7 foot logs. they are small in diamiter and easy for me to manage . i pull a log off the truck and onto the 2 logs i have secured together and cut it up into 16 in lengths . this is done at waste level . no bending over to cut . the 2 logs secured together prevent the chunks from dropping to the ground i put the chunks on my wood splitter and split and put into my tractor bucket . this process saves a hell of alot of bending for an old crippled guy like me
Good tips. Yes, I am always amazed at how far some people travel for their firewooding when there is plenty close at hand around here. It seems many people just don't factor in the cost of this, which is time as well as money.
Some good points and good advice, I find I've done some of the same things, I started hauling wood in the back seat of my car, then I modified my dirtbike trailer with sides and used that then I bought a small truck and will use it with the trailer when the time comes, I've also moved wood around in the yard etc etc, it takes experience before you start learning better more efficient ways !
Another tip. make sure your chain is sharp. If it is dull you have to work twice as hard and fight it through the wood. take the time to stop and sharping the chain or keep spares and change them out. Kev
Great Video. Been watching a lot of your Wood heat Wednesday videos. We are getting a woodstove here in 2 days and hoping to get it installed soon after so will be learning how to run and use a stove.
Great info and advice, as usual! Can't agree more with the "falling limbs" cautions! Among wildland firefighters, a standing dead tree is called a "widowmaker" -- with reason! I wear a hard hat every time I work on or under my trees.
This year I’m trying to do all my bucking and splitting out in the bush. I’m finding it’s keeping my stacking area a lot cleaner. It means I need to get both my trailer and splitter out to where I’m cutting. But I’m on my property so I don’t have to travel any great distance.
definitely agree with you that it is important to figure out how to handle the wood as few times as possible. Right now, I cut it, and stack the rounds, then split it and stack it to dry, and then move it into my woodshed which is an old granary. Then I move it into the house to burn. That is too many times. I need to cut it, split it into the shed, and dry it in there. Or find a good way to cover it outside.
Sounds good to me and makes perfect sense, Great advice, It is also a good practice to test your chain break setting as well, when I worked in the bush we had to test every morning and adjust if necessary, Kick backs can be hard on the collar bone :-( Cheers, ttyl :-)
I log and drive log trucks, run processors, it ain't all its cracked up to be. Try getting parts for those saws. 😂 good video brother. Stay safe, always look up
I split a long log with the chainsaw and made a long table which feeds the splitter. It eliminates lots and lots of bending over to pick up rounds. Also, load split wood directly into front end loader bucket (at a nice height), and transport directly to the woodshed.
*Sometimes longer bars are better*. If you are a tall guy felling trees with small/fewer branches, the trunk will end up closer to the ground and you'll have to bend over continuously to limb and buck the thing. A longer bar means you reduce bending - which helps even more if you cut a large amount of firewood infrequently, or have a bad back. Felling the tree onto a log placed sideways a few feet downrange can help keep the trunk off the ground. This reduces bending, makes it easier to limb, and if you are on sandy soil, can minimise the amount of sand that ends up in the bark (which, obviously, reduces the dulling effect on your chain). You can use something like a timberjack after normal felling to improve ergonomics (but since you jack the tree after it hits the ground, it won't prevent the sand/dulling issue). Finally, *smaller bars don't cut faster*. Assuming the same chain type and tooth profile... Cut speed is determined by how many teeth impact on the wood per second. This, in turn, is entirely determined by the diameter of the drive sprocket, the power of the chainsaw, and where your finger is on the throttle. Yes, longer bars have longer chains and thus (all other things being equal) those chains will complete fewer revolutions per second, but _revolutions per second has nothing to do with cut rate_ - it's *teeth per second* that matters. Additional friction caused by a longer bar is utterly insignificant if the bar and chain are being maintained properly. What _is noticeable_ with a smaller bar, however, is weight and balance. A smaller bar (and chain) is lighter, and moves the centre of gravity back towards the powerhead. This induces slightly less fatigue and makes it noticeably more 'nimble' or 'agile' (especially for smaller guys). Users tend to 'rock' the chainsaw more if it is lighter and more nimble _because they can and it is easier_. Rocking a chainsaw is an action your brain has to actively process, so it makes you think, and *that* makes time feel like it is passing faster. Put another way, smaller bars are more interesting to use and make time pass faster - but they don't actually cut faster. For those that find this difficult to believe, consider the following: If smaller bars and rocking actually improved cut speed, then why doesn't _anyone_ use either in chainsaw/lumberjack/hotsaw competitions? Having just said all of the above, it should be kept in mind that cut speed is only part of the picture. If you find felling, limbing and bucking monotonous, then rocking a smaller bar will make the task more interesting and make time go by faster. If you're a smaller or less fit guy then smaller chainsaws and bars will greatly reduce fatigue. If the trees your are cutting are bushy softwoods then you'll spend much more time limbing than bucking. If you are cutting cross-grained hardwoods, then there's no substitute for raw power. There are lots of variables. There is no one right answer. Unless you are a pro or have money burning a hole in your pocket, most folk will have to weigh everything up and go with a single saw and a single bar length. *Smaller bars don't cut faster*, but they do have other advantages - which may be more or less appealing to you based on your physique, fitness, powerhead, and the trees you are cutting.
+Penfold 'OoO' Very interesting. I never thought about the saving the back part. I remember reading some article a while back and the selling point to a shorter bar was less friction, oil distributed better..etc. After your comment got me wondering how much truth to that. I wish I could find that article again. I felt like he did a time test comparing the two.. After reading your comment I would almost think it could be the other way around since the same tooth is coming in contact with the wood less (not dulling as quickly). Hope I have not been chasing an old wives tale. I might need to pull out the old stop watch . As always really appreciate you taking the time to comment. Specially with all the great information you shared.
Life in Farmland In the 1970s (if memory serves) some clever folks invented the roller nose for chainsaw bars. Prior to that we used solid noses. Roller noses reduced chain friction by a rather large amount - easily a few horsepower. A few horsepower is more noticeable with a smaller powerhead than a larger one, so people that used smaller saws switched over first. Smaller powerheads ran shorter bars, so smaller powerheads owners formed the view that shorter *bars* cut faster than longer bars. In reality it was an unfair comparison, because shorter bars with roller noses were being compared to longer bars with solid noses (and the older, completely solid, 1-piece bars). Since solid noses had a durability and reliability advantage in unfavourable terrain, and this mattered to loggers who dragged their large powerheads long distances to log old growth forests, a lot of the 'old timers' stuck with solid noses. Over time the ancient forests disappeared, and the business case for solid bar noses has all-but evaporated. If you want a solid nose bar nowadays it will almost certainly be a special order item. To accurately compare modern long and short bars (whose one and *only* difference is length), you would need to control a huge amount of variables, mount your chainsaw the same way as an unsprung circular drop/chopsaw, and allow the weight of the chainsaw alone to drive the chain through the control timber. You _must_ eliminate the human factor for a fair comparison. Were you to do that, you would find that the extra friction of the guides (slowing of the chain) is offset by the added weight of the bar and chain (more cutting pressure) resulting in a difference that is imperceptible to most humans. Longer bars mean longer chains and (usually) more cutting teeth. Since the number of teeth impacts required to cut through a particular log is a constant, it means a longer chain will require fewer complete revolutions to cut through. What that means is that a chain with 10% more teeth will last 10% longer before needing to be sharpened. If your particular conditions are wearing out chains at a rapid rate, this is something to consider and switching to a longer bar may actually make your day _more_ productive. A longer bar also means less-severe kickbacks, so there's a safety bonus to consider as well. Lots and lots of variables... So yes, you're right, shorter bars being faster is (effectively) an old wive's tale. There's no meaningful difference in cutting speed between the two if all other variables are controlled. There are, however, circumstances in which both long and short have distinct advantages. You're a young fella, and not too tall (by the looks), so neither reach nor a bad back are much of a problem for you right now. The former is unlikely to change, but the latter may over the next 30 or so years. Look after your back, it's the only one you've got and once it's gone life will never be the same again.
Also get ahold of your local tree services. get in the phone book and ask if they got logs to dump at your place. the reason I say this is because I am a tree service, and I cant split all the wood I get. a lot hits the city dump.
tourniquet....on the aspect of safety. Have a couple...know how to use them. They'll save your life when the bad stuff goes down...mistakes happen and none of us are above that. Chainsaw chaps and a cell phone are also very important. A partner is preferred but I'm guilty of going it alone very often. Keep that tourniquet on your belt too...it does ya no good in the basket 100' away...
one tip for you on oak, pecan and other hardwoods. try to use shorter logs. a 16 inch piece splits lots easier than a 20 incher. also try to split the side rather than fully down the center.
Love your videos. Thanks for your efforts. Curious if you have used a kinetic wood splitter. I just got one and it is WAY faster than a hydraulic splitter.
What is the cost of firewood logs or weight wood logs cost in your area? I'm in N. Central Tn and weight wood is $20 - 25 per ton. I use a firewood processor that cuts/splits 1.5cd per hr. I burn 20+cd per yr because I heat my lumber dry kiln and home heat with wood. Also if I were you I'd price sawmill slabs to add to your firewood stores. You don't have to cut a tree down,, no splitting (except for the occasional big slab) and they dry quick.
Another great video, having fun watching and learning from/with ya. I'm not a big guy (only weigh 150lbs) thinking of getting a Stihl MS 250. I'm not cutting big, soft wood. Wondering if you have any thoughts? Smaller saw maybe? Currently using a 38cc poulan with 16" bar. First saw but the weight is fine.
+David Rowe Would need to know where you are getting your wood, what lengths you are getting and what kind of wood. I get a lot of wood delivered for free that is next to my cutting and stacking area. I am able to use an electric saw due to it being the right size for my chainsaw.
+wells2519 I'm cutting between 8 and 10 cord a year for heating my home. Winter cutting, hauling with a snowmobile and sleigh. 20" junks. Area is 5 mins drive from my home on an old farm road. The Stihl is my main choice because of dealership and service/parts. MS250
+David Rowe I have not personally ran this saw. I know I couldn't be more happy with mine (MS290). I have cut a LOT of wood with it and have hardly had to do a thing to it. MS250 is a home grade saw so guessing its not built for super hard use and abuse but watching a few videos, it appears to be a pretty good cutter. One limitation might be bar size length (max 18") but if you are cutting smaller stuff that might not be an issue. The saw I have has a max of 20" bar and I have uses every inch of that on some bigger trees. (cutting from both sides to get the job done) If you think you might run into a couple beast larger then 32", might be worth go up a step. That way you are not limited by the saw. Hard call since I don't know what your normal cutting situation is like and what you value most. I am not steering you away from it but just another idea I will put out there. Take a look on craigslist, garage sales.etc. You can often get a used pro grade saw not to far off in price as a new ms250 (granted no warranty)
One of the simplest ways to boost process efficiency with wood fuel: get it as dry as possible before burning. Use a moisture-meter now and then to run the numbers. 20%MC is just too wet, IMO. Down around 10% or below, now you're talking. Of course this means giving it time to dry properly. Might take two years or longer for some oaks- just do it!
+Jacques Blaque when you take your reading you splitting it? We season most of our wood 2+ years often more. never seen any thing that low. kiln dry wood is around 12%. I agree with you 100%
Yup, split some samples. "Seasoning" has no legal, or other, meaning. "Air-drying" or "kiln-drying" "to %MC"do. Stacking it top-covered with as much southern exposure as possible for at least a couple years gets it typically down around 10%. Stack it at 16", then buzz it on bandsaw to 8" and rack near the stove for a week or more. (Adds humidity to house.) Even black locust lights readily. Take-away: takes time, then less fuel.
I hear you about reducing the handling, if I fill the wood trolley some of the wood is being handled for the fifth time - usually by me! I used to have a great wood-splitter, but it's efficiency diminished after the second pregnancy ;) Some of that handling is unavoidable especially as, burning Aussie hardwoods, if I can get semi-dry wood into the sun by January, it's ready to burn that winter. We have a mix of box (around 1100/m3 dry, about twice the density of Doug. Fir) and a horrid beast called stringybark (just under 900kg/m3, about 20% denser than your oaks) which has pockets of nasty gum when green. By far the best is to let the white ants have their way and just cut it dead standing. Running an MS311 20”, light duty (about 15m3 / yr): after ten years I have just bought my second bar. Helmet and chaps standard, especially after the day we had our arborist acquaintances around for a few beers and they started telling war stories. After about 5 min, Mrs. turns to me and says, "You're not touching that saw again without a pair" (chaps). Haven't needed them yet, only injury had been overdoing it with a hired 30 t splitter and catching a finger on the 'one more' just before lunch, having split 6-7 t for the morning. While I was at the hospital for x-rays my father-in-law tried to do the same, but ripped his hand out and ended up causing more damage, so I was the lucky one!
+Ian Forrester (ifr33) what do you think about the size of that saw? I mostly run a 50cc. Seems like a pretty good balance. Not to much weight and most of the time enough power. Been looking at a couple 60cc pro saws. Been looking at the husqvarna 562xp I have heard mixed reviews on stihls newer m-tronic carbs. My old Stihl has just been butler proof. Been really debating between another 50cc or 60cc saw for the next upgrade
Life in Farmland, can't really say too much as it's the only combo I've ever run, but there have been times when something bigger would've helped. Price was a factor at the time...
One More and I'll shut up. My experience with Stihl saws over the past 20 years has shown me that the Odd numbers 25, 29, 31 - saws tend to be home owner and what stihl calls FARM Saws. The even numbers 26, 34, 36, 44, 46, 66 - Tend to be commercial and professional saws. Stihl has gone to a 3 digit number now for their saws but the pro saws are still even numbers in the first 2 digits. 461, 661, 361 ETC for pro saws. In my experience the pro/commercial saws are better suited for my purposes. These saws Usually Adjustable oiler and a much better designed air filter system. I run all my saws stock with the exception of the big 066 Magnum. I have an after market dual ported muffler for that big saw. AGain thanks for the time you put into your videos.
+Giblet Love hearing your insight on this. Really appreciate it. I think you are the second person that mentioned that about the bar length and saving the back. Something I never thought about (being young and have a good one). I really appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge on this. Thanks again!
If you have a tractor, there's no sense doing all of your cutting in the field. Load whole logs and take them back to your processing area where you can cut and split them easier. Make a jig out of a couple of logs that is pre-marked with your length measurements for the rounds and your chain will never hit the dirt or rocks again. When you are done cutting and splitting, bundle your firewood so that moving it is much easier.
I don't recall if I ever heard you say how much wood you burn a season? It looks like you keep quite a bit on hand, do you sell any? Thanks for the videos.
Adam Holbrook we usually use around 6 - 8 full cords a Winter. I have sold some but don't really feel it is worth the effort since most want it dropped off . I am also not a fan of working out schedule stuff. I have been left waiting around for someone to show up way to often.
I don't blame you there. Even with easy access to wood for what a cord brings I couldn't make any money at it. I'd have to spend a bunch of money on something to help increase production. Thanks again. Hope your New Year is a great one.
As always thank you for your well thought out videos! My experience with saws and saw bar length is as follows. I've run stihl saws for 20+ years and have cut with everything from a 025 to my 066. My experience with short bars has resulted in a back ache! I have 3 Stihl Saws now, all set with the exact same chain size so I only have to keep up with one file size. 026 Pro - 20 inch bar, 046 Magnum - 25 Inch BAR, 066 - 25 -or 31 inch bar. The saw I use the absolute most is the 46 Magnum. It is 15+ years old and is an absolute work horse. I wind up reaching for it over the 026 pro for one reason alone! The 46 is very fast. I can reduce the cutting time on each log by more than 1/2 over the 026. I have several 18 inch bars and a dozen chains that I NEVER use. I reach for the 25 inch bar 046 because I can cut with the tip of the bar toward the ground without having to bend over completely. Weight to balance ratio is also much better for me with a longer bar. Just my experience. I process around 6-9 cords of hard wood oak per year. Thanks again!!!!!!!!!
You're young, but a wise & experienced young man. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.By the time you're my age, it kind of all goes out the window. It takes me 15 steps to do a project now, because I can remember only 1, or 2 things at a time. We do the best we can don't we. .
When it comes to great advice on cutting firewood, there is NO ONE I trust more that you! Thanks for the info! The comments are also great. I always wear ear and eye protection and usually wear a hardhat. When I was dropping 200 trees a year I also wore spiked forestry boots, chaps and a chain resistant jacket. I also used a professional, higher HP and low-vibration saw - great for cutting stumps off at ground level. Any like you I'll do almost anything to minimize the number of times I have to pick up the wood.
I know some people who survive on lawn jobs and firewood. I was told the county line wood splitter was the best investment they ever made after their John Deere tractor. Now of course there are X marks that have zero turn efficiency and can cut grass at 20 miles per hour. I am 62 and still split wood the old fashioned way because it keeps my vertebrae full of water and health. Maybe when I hit 80 I will need one. I lift weights every day but firewood is my love. I ran many marathons in the last five years including Boston Amsterdam and Stockholm where you are likely from. I grew up in Michigan working on a Christmas tree farm so chain saws are in my DNA. You make me want to try a Sthil again. I loved my farm boss but i overwhelmed it. My 066 is sitting under my ping pong table and will be used next summer. Any recommendations for the best Sthil product out there? Most of my firewood has been under roof for 20 years and it burns like magic. 90% of it is locust and burns so hot my Ashley which looks just like yours glows red. 20 years ago I built my own woodstove out of concrete and kept 3500 sq ft warm. But now it is just me and my wife and we heat only a small part of the house and I will not outlive my wood pile. Ok so my family lives into their late 90's but my momentum should keep me warm until 120 years old. I love your channel which doesn't say much about my coolness but I love Minnesota and its Swedish culture and am halfway through Vilhelm Moberg's writings. He is amazing. If you ever find yourself near Big Stone Gap, Virginia you can drool over my woodpile of super dry locust. I ran three 100 mile trail races the last five years and am anxiously awaiting next week's cross country ski race World Cup featuring the young girl from Minnesota who just won this week's preamble beating the German (I'm half German) in the amazing finish.
I bought two log tongs some years ago and they are worth every penny. Your legs can drag a lot more weight than you know, with a tong in each hand I can skid two pretty long pieces of wood at the same time and they are great to use around a splitter also.
so many good tips . i used to cut wood out of my chevy 3/4 ton 4by4 now i work out of my little ranger much easier to load and unload . what i do on wood cutting is i have 2 logs secured together 8 feet long sitting on saw horses . i load my truck with 7 foot logs. they are small in diamiter and easy for me to manage . i pull a log off the truck and onto the 2 logs i have secured together and cut it up into 16 in lengths . this is done at waste level . no bending over to cut . the 2 logs secured together prevent the chunks from dropping to the ground i put the chunks on my wood splitter and split and put into my tractor bucket . this process saves a hell of alot of bending for an old crippled guy like me
grizz270 age makes us wiser huh ? When your young you got so much energy u tend to be almost inefficient. Age takes care of that stupidity.
All great ideas. Thanks for taking the time. I need a trailer for hauling.
Good tips. Yes, I am always amazed at how far some people travel for their firewooding when there is plenty close at hand around here. It seems many people just don't factor in the cost of this, which is time as well as money.
That trailer height saves on your rotator cuffs too. When ya wear out them rotator cuffs, you done, maybe for good.
Some good points and good advice, I find I've done some of the same things, I started hauling wood in the back seat of my car, then I modified my dirtbike trailer with sides and used that then I bought a small truck and will use it with the trailer when the time comes, I've also moved wood around in the yard etc etc, it takes experience before you start learning better more efficient ways !
Another tip. make sure your chain is sharp. If it is dull you have to work twice as hard and fight it through the wood. take the time to stop and sharping the chain or keep spares and change them out. Kev
+Skidder Kev Great tip! Makes a big difference.
Great Video. Been watching a lot of your Wood heat Wednesday videos. We are getting a woodstove here in 2 days and hoping to get it installed soon after so will be learning how to run and use a stove.
Good tips, thanks!
Great info and advice, as usual! Can't agree more with the "falling limbs" cautions! Among wildland firefighters, a standing dead tree is called a "widowmaker" -- with reason! I wear a hard hat every time I work on or under my trees.
wise words of wood cutting ergonomics, stay safe all wood cutters, ive just read some of the other comments, take care, thanks for the video.
This year I’m trying to do all my bucking and splitting out in the bush. I’m finding it’s keeping my stacking area a lot cleaner. It means I need to get both my trailer and splitter out to where I’m cutting. But I’m on my property so I don’t have to travel any great distance.
definitely agree with you that it is important to figure out how to handle the wood as few times as possible. Right now, I cut it, and stack the rounds, then split it and stack it to dry, and then move it into my woodshed which is an old granary. Then I move it into the house to burn. That is too many times. I need to cut it, split it into the shed, and dry it in there. Or find a good way to cover it outside.
Good vid and I always believe in work smarter not harder God bless buddy
Some good suggestions. Good video, thanks!
Good tips Eric, how much wood do you have to have stored up for winter.
smart advice
thanks for the safety tips and video
Sounds good to me and makes perfect sense, Great advice, It is also a good practice to test your chain break setting as well, when I worked in the bush we had to test every morning and adjust if necessary, Kick backs can be hard on the collar bone :-( Cheers, ttyl :-)
Do you ever run into issues with your wrists or elbows? Both of my hands are now numb at this point after months of cutting wood.
If you put a sizeable table on the end of your wood splitter, it keeps you from bending over to pick up the wood that falls after its split.
I log and drive log trucks, run processors, it ain't all its cracked up to be. Try getting parts for those saws. 😂 good video brother. Stay safe, always look up
I split a long log with the chainsaw and made a long table which feeds the splitter. It eliminates lots and lots of bending over to pick up rounds. Also, load split wood directly into front end loader bucket (at a nice height), and transport directly to the woodshed.
*Sometimes longer bars are better*. If you are a tall guy felling trees with small/fewer branches, the trunk will end up closer to the ground and you'll have to bend over continuously to limb and buck the thing. A longer bar means you reduce bending - which helps even more if you cut a large amount of firewood infrequently, or have a bad back.
Felling the tree onto a log placed sideways a few feet downrange can help keep the trunk off the ground. This reduces bending, makes it easier to limb, and if you are on sandy soil, can minimise the amount of sand that ends up in the bark (which, obviously, reduces the dulling effect on your chain). You can use something like a timberjack after normal felling to improve ergonomics (but since you jack the tree after it hits the ground, it won't prevent the sand/dulling issue).
Finally, *smaller bars don't cut faster*. Assuming the same chain type and tooth profile... Cut speed is determined by how many teeth impact on the wood per second. This, in turn, is entirely determined by the diameter of the drive sprocket, the power of the chainsaw, and where your finger is on the throttle. Yes, longer bars have longer chains and thus (all other things being equal) those chains will complete fewer revolutions per second, but _revolutions per second has nothing to do with cut rate_ - it's *teeth per second* that matters. Additional friction caused by a longer bar is utterly insignificant if the bar and chain are being maintained properly.
What _is noticeable_ with a smaller bar, however, is weight and balance. A smaller bar (and chain) is lighter, and moves the centre of gravity back towards the powerhead. This induces slightly less fatigue and makes it noticeably more 'nimble' or 'agile' (especially for smaller guys). Users tend to 'rock' the chainsaw more if it is lighter and more nimble _because they can and it is easier_. Rocking a chainsaw is an action your brain has to actively process, so it makes you think, and *that* makes time feel like it is passing faster. Put another way, smaller bars are more interesting to use and make time pass faster - but they don't actually cut faster. For those that find this difficult to believe, consider the following: If smaller bars and rocking actually improved cut speed, then why doesn't _anyone_ use either in chainsaw/lumberjack/hotsaw competitions?
Having just said all of the above, it should be kept in mind that cut speed is only part of the picture. If you find felling, limbing and bucking monotonous, then rocking a smaller bar will make the task more interesting and make time go by faster. If you're a smaller or less fit guy then smaller chainsaws and bars will greatly reduce fatigue. If the trees your are cutting are bushy softwoods then you'll spend much more time limbing than bucking. If you are cutting cross-grained hardwoods, then there's no substitute for raw power. There are lots of variables. There is no one right answer. Unless you are a pro or have money burning a hole in your pocket, most folk will have to weigh everything up and go with a single saw and a single bar length. *Smaller bars don't cut faster*, but they do have other advantages - which may be more or less appealing to you based on your physique, fitness, powerhead, and the trees you are cutting.
+Penfold 'OoO' Very interesting. I never thought about the saving the back part.
I remember reading some article a while back and the selling point to a shorter bar was less friction, oil distributed better..etc. After your comment got me wondering how much truth to that. I wish I could find that article again. I felt like he did a time test comparing the two..
After reading your comment I would almost think it could be the other way around since the same tooth is coming in contact with the wood less (not dulling as quickly). Hope I have not been chasing an old wives tale. I might need to pull out the old stop watch .
As always really appreciate you taking the time to comment. Specially with all the great information you shared.
Life in Farmland In the 1970s (if memory serves) some clever folks invented the roller nose for chainsaw bars. Prior to that we used solid noses. Roller noses reduced chain friction by a rather large amount - easily a few horsepower. A few horsepower is more noticeable with a smaller powerhead than a larger one, so people that used smaller saws switched over first. Smaller powerheads ran shorter bars, so smaller powerheads owners formed the view that shorter *bars* cut faster than longer bars. In reality it was an unfair comparison, because shorter bars with roller noses were being compared to longer bars with solid noses (and the older, completely solid, 1-piece bars).
Since solid noses had a durability and reliability advantage in unfavourable terrain, and this mattered to loggers who dragged their large powerheads long distances to log old growth forests, a lot of the 'old timers' stuck with solid noses. Over time the ancient forests disappeared, and the business case for solid bar noses has all-but evaporated. If you want a solid nose bar nowadays it will almost certainly be a special order item.
To accurately compare modern long and short bars (whose one and *only* difference is length), you would need to control a huge amount of variables, mount your chainsaw the same way as an unsprung circular drop/chopsaw, and allow the weight of the chainsaw alone to drive the chain through the control timber. You _must_ eliminate the human factor for a fair comparison. Were you to do that, you would find that the extra friction of the guides (slowing of the chain) is offset by the added weight of the bar and chain (more cutting pressure) resulting in a difference that is imperceptible to most humans.
Longer bars mean longer chains and (usually) more cutting teeth. Since the number of teeth impacts required to cut through a particular log is a constant, it means a longer chain will require fewer complete revolutions to cut through. What that means is that a chain with 10% more teeth will last 10% longer before needing to be sharpened. If your particular conditions are wearing out chains at a rapid rate, this is something to consider and switching to a longer bar may actually make your day _more_ productive.
A longer bar also means less-severe kickbacks, so there's a safety bonus to consider as well. Lots and lots of variables...
So yes, you're right, shorter bars being faster is (effectively) an old wive's tale. There's no meaningful difference in cutting speed between the two if all other variables are controlled. There are, however, circumstances in which both long and short have distinct advantages.
You're a young fella, and not too tall (by the looks), so neither reach nor a bad back are much of a problem for you right now. The former is unlikely to change, but the latter may over the next 30 or so years. Look after your back, it's the only one you've got and once it's gone life will never be the same again.
you've got quite a sweet trailer!
I like to harvest in early spring. Before the undergrowth and bugs take over. And later in the fall. After the leaves and bugs are gone.
Also get ahold of your local tree services. get in the phone book and ask if they got logs to dump at your place. the reason I say this is because I am a tree service, and I cant split all the wood I get. a lot hits the city dump.
Where I live the tree guys won't dump log at your place, UNLESS you buy them... :/
I do this quite often, especially if it is local. Most of the time they are more than happy to drop it off or leave it for me to haul away.
You may want to do an episode on how to cut your steps safely.One of my pet pevs is constantly moving wood to process it
tourniquet....on the aspect of safety. Have a couple...know how to use them. They'll save your life when the bad stuff goes down...mistakes happen and none of us are above that. Chainsaw chaps and a cell phone are also very important. A partner is preferred but I'm guilty of going it alone very often. Keep that tourniquet on your belt too...it does ya no good in the basket 100' away...
nice job what kind of tree you stacking
Looks like ash to me.
I've seen you with a pickaroon but never with a pulp hook. Is that something you use?
What size is you saws?
ash is about the easiest thing to split. and that's great cause he's got a forest full. got any tips for someone splitting oak or pecan?
one tip for you on oak, pecan and other hardwoods. try to use shorter logs. a 16 inch piece splits lots easier than a 20 incher. also try to split the side rather than fully down the center.
Love your videos. Thanks for your efforts. Curious if you have used a kinetic wood splitter. I just got one and it is WAY faster than a hydraulic splitter.
What is the cost of firewood logs or weight wood logs cost in your area?
I'm in N. Central Tn and weight wood is $20 - 25 per ton. I use a firewood processor that cuts/splits 1.5cd per hr. I burn 20+cd per yr because I heat my lumber dry kiln and home heat with wood.
Also if I were you I'd price sawmill slabs to add to your firewood stores. You don't have to cut a tree down,, no splitting (except for the occasional big slab) and they dry quick.
+Barry Remainder We use to have a mill by us but it burned down. I am not sure what the rate is in our area. Some great ideas. Thank you for sharing!
what's the name on the file an tool bag u wrap up
Another great video, having fun watching and learning from/with ya.
I'm not a big guy (only weigh 150lbs) thinking of getting a Stihl MS 250. I'm not cutting big, soft wood.
Wondering if you have any thoughts? Smaller saw maybe? Currently using a 38cc poulan with 16" bar. First saw but the weight is fine.
*Im cutting small soft wood!
+David Rowe Would need to know where you are getting your wood, what lengths you are getting and what kind of wood. I get a lot of wood delivered for free that is next to my cutting and stacking area. I am able to use an electric saw due to it being the right size for my chainsaw.
+wells2519 I'm cutting between 8 and 10 cord a year for heating my home. Winter cutting, hauling with a snowmobile and sleigh. 20" junks. Area is 5 mins drive from my home on an old farm road.
The Stihl is my main choice because of dealership and service/parts. MS250
+David Rowe I have not personally ran this saw. I know I couldn't be more happy with mine (MS290). I have cut a LOT of wood with it and have hardly had to do a thing to it. MS250 is a home grade saw so guessing its not built for super hard use and abuse but watching a few videos, it appears to be a pretty good cutter. One limitation might be bar size length (max 18") but if you are cutting smaller stuff that might not be an issue.
The saw I have has a max of 20" bar and I have uses every inch of that on some bigger trees. (cutting from both sides to get the job done) If you think you might run into a couple beast larger then 32", might be worth go up a step. That way you are not limited by the saw. Hard call since I don't know what your normal cutting situation is like and what you value most.
I am not steering you away from it but just another idea I will put out there. Take a look on craigslist, garage sales.etc. You can often get a used pro grade saw not to far off in price as a new ms250 (granted no warranty)
Another great vid! Every time I watch your firewood videos, It makes me wanna go out and put the chainsaw to good use! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
One of the simplest ways to boost process efficiency with wood fuel: get it as dry as possible before burning. Use a moisture-meter now and then to run the numbers. 20%MC is just too wet, IMO. Down around 10% or below, now you're talking. Of course this means giving it time to dry properly. Might take two years or longer for some oaks- just do it!
+Jacques Blaque when you take your reading you splitting it? We season most of our wood 2+ years often more. never seen any thing that low. kiln dry wood is around 12%. I agree with you 100%
Yup, split some samples. "Seasoning" has no legal, or other, meaning. "Air-drying" or "kiln-drying" "to %MC"do. Stacking it top-covered with as much southern exposure as possible for at least a couple years gets it typically down around 10%. Stack it at 16", then buzz it on bandsaw to 8" and rack near the stove for a week or more. (Adds humidity to house.) Even black locust lights readily. Take-away: takes time, then less fuel.
Can someone tell me this guys name? Can’t see it anywhere on the bio. Cheers
I hear you about reducing the handling, if I fill the wood trolley some of the wood is being handled for the fifth time - usually by me! I used to have a great wood-splitter, but it's efficiency diminished after the second pregnancy ;) Some of that handling is unavoidable especially as, burning Aussie hardwoods, if I can get semi-dry wood into the sun by January, it's ready to burn that winter. We have a mix of box (around 1100/m3 dry, about twice the density of Doug. Fir) and a horrid beast called stringybark (just under 900kg/m3, about 20% denser than your oaks) which has pockets of nasty gum when green. By far the best is to let the white ants have their way and just cut it dead standing.
Running an MS311 20”, light duty (about 15m3 / yr): after ten years I have just bought my second bar. Helmet and chaps standard, especially after the day we had our arborist acquaintances around for a few beers and they started telling war stories. After about 5 min, Mrs. turns to me and says, "You're not touching that saw again without a pair" (chaps). Haven't needed them yet, only injury had been overdoing it with a hired 30 t splitter and catching a finger on the 'one more' just before lunch, having split 6-7 t for the morning. While I was at the hospital for x-rays my father-in-law tried to do the same, but ripped his hand out and ended up causing more damage, so I was the lucky one!
+Ian Forrester (ifr33) what do you think about the size of that saw? I mostly run a 50cc. Seems like a pretty good balance. Not to much weight and most of the time enough power. Been looking at a couple 60cc pro saws. Been looking at the husqvarna 562xp I have heard mixed reviews on stihls newer m-tronic carbs. My old Stihl has just been butler proof. Been really debating between another 50cc or 60cc saw for the next upgrade
Life in Farmland, can't really say too much as it's the only combo I've ever run, but there have been times when something bigger would've helped. Price was a factor at the time...
What state are you in?
Minnesota
I wish you would do more firewood videos like them a lot.Please do something on what you use on chainsaws.
One More and I'll shut up. My experience with Stihl saws over the past 20 years has shown me that the Odd numbers 25, 29, 31 - saws tend to be home owner and what stihl calls FARM Saws. The even numbers 26, 34, 36, 44, 46, 66 - Tend to be commercial and professional saws. Stihl has gone to a 3 digit number now for their saws but the pro saws are still even numbers in the first 2 digits. 461, 661, 361 ETC for pro saws. In my experience the pro/commercial saws are better suited for my purposes. These saws Usually Adjustable oiler and a much better designed air filter system. I run all my saws stock with the exception of the big 066 Magnum. I have an after market dual ported muffler for that big saw. AGain thanks for the time you put into your videos.
+Giblet Love hearing your insight on this. Really appreciate it. I think you are the second person that mentioned that about the bar length and saving the back. Something I never thought about (being young and have a good one). I really appreciate you sharing your experience and knowledge on this. Thanks again!
If you have a tractor, there's no sense doing all of your cutting in the field. Load whole logs and take them back to your processing area where you can cut and split them easier. Make a jig out of a couple of logs that is pre-marked with your length measurements for the rounds and your chain will never hit the dirt or rocks again. When you are done cutting and splitting, bundle your firewood so that moving it is much easier.
I don't recall if I ever heard you say how much wood you burn a season? It looks like you keep quite a bit on hand, do you sell any? Thanks for the videos.
Adam Holbrook we usually use around 6 - 8 full cords a Winter. I have sold some but don't really feel it is worth the effort since most want it dropped off . I am also not a fan of working out schedule stuff. I have been left waiting around for someone to show up way to often.
I don't blame you there. Even with easy access to wood for what a cord brings I couldn't make any money at it. I'd have to spend a bunch of money on something to help increase production. Thanks again. Hope your New Year is a great one.
longer blades are easier on your back ,as you are not bent over trying to cut thru the log
one thing i like to do is i cut and split all my wood in the woods then the mess isnt on your lawn and stuff and its out in the woods
this in Wyoming?
Minnesota
You sure no your stuff.. Been looking at your firewood videos. Thanks
Heres a tip from Straya dont say woods makes ya sound like your living in a fairytale real men cut wood out the BUSH
great thumbnail for this video
You should print that out and frame it!!
I'm serious, Eric