I love the variety of the climbing. It's a Gunks classic for sure! The only negatives are, that it's usually busy, and the plague of obnoxiously loud motorcycles that race up and down the road.
Go have a look at the ‘direct finish’ straight up after the crux of _”Modern Times”_* Thin gear then large cam & bush(escape Rt bombay/slot 5.7) From bush at base of shallow corners {a well protected long reach; go up white cap stone w/clean streak thru lichen}Good holds & gear where you need👉😳🗿🫣love 2 look for the ‘best’ vertical exposure😄 another ‘out-there’ climb at a ‘sane’ grade is “Traverse of the Clods”
I have always traveresd right. Once (quite a few years ago), my partner went straight up past the tree. Seemed hard. I don't think this is what you are talking about though. Talking about vertical exposure, I did Bonnies Direct a couple of months ago. I hadn't been on it in Many years. Effin awesome!!! Why would I go back to the regular finish?
@@JoBianco As Herbert Bates said, you don't. I am generally pretty skeptical of pins and usually back them up or just skip them. I think, with experience, you get better at assessing them, but they are metal stuck in an often wet crack for years on end. That generally makes me want to not trust them on principle. That said, I trust some more than others. Angle pitions are generally in wider cracks allowing both easier inspection and better drying than knife blades or lost arrows. But like most protection decisions while trad climbing, you need a combination of knowledge, competence, and judgment to assess the safety of the system.
Nice work. Horseman is such a great climb! It epitomizes the Gunks "go out and around the corner to see what's there" move.
I love the variety of the climbing. It's a Gunks classic for sure! The only negatives are, that it's usually busy, and the plague of obnoxiously loud motorcycles that race up and down the road.
Go have a look at the ‘direct finish’ straight up after the crux of
_”Modern Times”_*
Thin gear then large cam & bush(escape Rt bombay/slot 5.7)
From bush at base of shallow corners {a well protected long reach; go up white cap stone w/clean streak thru lichen}Good holds & gear where you need👉😳🗿🫣love 2 look for the ‘best’ vertical exposure😄 another ‘out-there’ climb at a ‘sane’ grade is “Traverse of the Clods”
I have always traveresd right. Once (quite a few years ago), my partner went straight up past the tree. Seemed hard. I don't think this is what you are talking about though. Talking about vertical exposure, I did Bonnies Direct a couple of months ago. I hadn't been on it in Many years. Effin awesome!!! Why would I go back to the regular finish?
digging the GOPro MAX view
GoPro Max is awesome! Thanks for watching.
How high up were you before you put in the first piece?
Probably 30' (I'm guessing). But there's good gear that can be had below that.
Great job! Was that a piton you clipped to?
Thanks. If I remember correctly there were a couple of pitons. One just past the big roof, and one near the top.
@@oldmanbeta How do you know if a piton is trustworthy to clip to?
@@JoBianco You don't, really. But they 'look' reassuring. And one assumes that they'll absorb some energy in a fall even if they break.
@@JoBianco As Herbert Bates said, you don't. I am generally pretty skeptical of pins and usually back them up or just skip them. I think, with experience, you get better at assessing them, but they are metal stuck in an often wet crack for years on end. That generally makes me want to not trust them on principle. That said, I trust some more than others. Angle pitions are generally in wider cracks allowing both easier inspection and better drying than knife blades or lost arrows. But like most protection decisions while trad climbing, you need a combination of knowledge, competence, and judgment to assess the safety of the system.
Amazing video, but those motorbikes are absolutely insufferable!
I totally agree!