Trad Climbing on The Spring - Pitch 2 at The Gunks, NY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2017
- Beautiful Exposed climbing with plenty of protection. Why not.
While I'm pretty sure I ended at what seemed to be the obvious belay ledge, it looks like there were two more lines to the top (Potential third pitch). Both looked pretty hard but this pitch also felt a little easy for 10b. Still a quality line. - กีฬา
Thank you for all your climbing uploads! You've inspired me to create my own. Plus your videos give me something to dream about when I'm stuck inside training on treadmill lol Climb well, be well ✌
PS: hope you are out there crushing it since you haven't uploaded anything lately. 💪
woohhoo :D awesome
i got adrenaline rush just by watching you
I just did it yesterday, and unless I was off route, I thought it was way too easy for a 10. You seemed to have done it exactly the way I did.
Hey, how do you mount your gopro on the helmet, is the mount glued right on top or closer to the tip of the helmet. Thanks, great videos
WELL DONE
Awesome dude. A bit too exposed for my comfort but looked hella fun. Any way to minimize rope drag around the corner while you were belaying up your buddy?
Last anchor was epic bomber because of the two, not one but TWO, pink tricams ... so overkill :D
callmeburton fur shure. I rap off one pink tricam all the time. I even use them as boat anchors. Hell, I had my wife sign one as a pre nup.
uou! nicee ! Is this anchor at the end of the video, all mobile?
Do you not always carry your alpine draws around your body? I remember in one of of your videos, you had a few around your body.
Nice lead, man. I’m angstn for spring.
peter griffin You and me both my man.
Was that pink anchor at the end already there when you climbed up? Did someone else leave it there?
At the end when you clipped into the long yellow sling at the belay,by not tying an overhand or figure 8 in that sling to my thinking means that if for some reason one of those strands brakes-you take the big ride; if it's tied off with a figure 8 and one strand cuts- well then it's just dang scary:) strong climbing but ride safe out there cowboy
If you mean at 18:07, those are actually two separate yellow slings. I'd be more worried about that who knows how old permanent sling, but that may be just me.
Is that the maxim Honnold rope?
Are there any particular reasons for using such long slings (besides that's what you had)? Wondering because using them make a fall that much longer before the protection catches.
Two primary reasons. 1. Helps eliminate rope drag. This is especially apparent when pull roofs or when you suddenly start traversing. 2. Helps to prevent the rope from. Compromising your placement. The rope pulling directly on your peice cam pull it sideways or up and down. This is one of the reasons nuts can pull out when you're past them.
Stay safe out there big dog
I'm Korea. . . good!!!!!
I'm confused, is the rope anchored to anything? Placing the cams in the cracks with the biners attached to your line makes sense. But if you were to fall wouldnt you just continue to fall if not anchored? First time watching anything to do with rock climbing, forgive my ignorance.
late response but he is being belayed to the previous pitch's anchor (the belayer is anchored to the wall). If he was to fall he would only fall the distance he climbed above the last piece of protection x2 (If the protection holds)
Looked like a good horizontal nut slot just 2 inches right of your first attempted placement....
If you're here looking for beta, the cut at 11:23 is a traverse left about 6 ft to find those tan flakes to pull the roof
Gunks?
Hey dude never trust an old rope. Backing it up with your cam is okay, but i think the pytons and blockers might survive the fall but not that old rope. Use your dinema for a good thing there.
ชอบบบ
You were probably okay because of that .75 you placed right after it, but it's usually a bad idea to place passive as your first piece (and if there was a jesus draw on the anchor then ignore this).
At 11:42 (@FirstPersonBeta) you did the right thing by having your foot on the outside of the rope; unfortunately you moved it such that the rope was on the outside. In the case of a fall, this might cause the rope to catch your foot and for you to become flipped by the rope. Try to avoid it in the future! :)
Love watching your clips! Keep up the good work and stay safe!!
Have you ever thought about using polyamid/nylon slings rather than using dyneema slings since nylon absorbs 30% of the force when you are falling and that could be the difference between a cam staying position or breaking out ?
If I was still slinging runners over my shoulders, I'd probably have stuck with Nylon. Unfortunately, it's much more cumbersome to use in an alpine draw configuration and I'm not found of climbing with a dozen nylon slings slung over my shoulders (mostly due to the biners swinging around). Where it might be useful is if I get on a climb where I think I might fall (use it on the piece that potentially would catch me) but in such case, I should probably just consider investing in a screamer.
FirstPersonBeta What is a screamer ? Do you mean your quickdraws which have nylon slings ir what ?
So I just received my alpin draw configuration consisting of OCUN KESTREL 5+1 PACK and polyamid OCUN O-SLING PAD 16MM X 60CM , all of that only costed me about 80€ and even though the carabiners are relativly small I have no problem setting up an alpine draw and it isn't cumbersome at all, so which polyamid slings did you use ?
www.rockandsnow.com/21338/Yates-Screamers/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_q_hls2Y1wIVCB6GCh3HCwctEAQYAyABEgJPZfD_BwE
They're like a nylon runner that has been bundled up and stitched together. Great piece of equipment if your concerned about blowing pro. Unfortunately, they purposely try to destroy themselves in one fall.
Ok thank you :)
Love the videos. Also love the view. My bad about the drone stuff I never considered the legality of it, plus they're expensive and noisy.
Illegal at the gunks
is this sport dangerous by any chance?
Yep
Quite but as long as you’re smart about it and cautious it’s not too bad
Quite but as long as you’re smart about it and cautious it’s not too bad
Nice climbing,
But you have to learn proper gear placement!
For example, the cam at minute 5:28:
The stem could break if you would fall on it (have a look on the edge!)...
Greetings from Austria!
Florian, I'm sure his placement will be fine. It's over an edge, sure, but cantilevering is only something of major consideration when your cam has a ridgid stem; his does not.
You should check out this Czech climber climbing what looks like a hard 10d maybe even in the 11s , plus it is very wet looking with a lot of lichen on the route - anyway, he climbs this difficult trad route and he uses only webbing and knotted spectra cord for protection, no metal gear at all - but just watch how he uses it, how creative he is with it....it really is cool and helpful at the same time...these former Soviet Block dudes can't afford all the latest shit from Wild Country and Metolius etc, they just don't have access to it or the hard currency to buy it... It really is nice to watch him climb, he is very smooth, very quiet even on what is quite a hard and wet looking trad route, with basically nothing but a bunch of slings and knotted spectra cord used like stoppers - you will enjoy it for sure - th-cam.com/video/QQstfpiYu_A/w-d-xo.html
"these former Soviet Block dudes can't afford all the latest shit from Wild Country and Metolius etc, they just don't have access to it or the hard currency to afford it... It"
what a nonsense some places in europe you can't use metal pro or even chalk
due to National Park restrictions,
and have nothing to do with being from like you called Soviet Bloc.
"Hard currency" WTF what world you living haha
My grandfather is Czech , I have visited the country. When outside of Prague in the country side, they don't have easy access to North Face, Wild Country, Metolius etc etc you are hard pressed to find it in Prague....and they don't have the same dollars we do , or buying power you fucktard - of course they can get their hands on American dollars if they want it is just a turn of a phrase....the standard of living is a lot lower than ours here in North America, that is why my Grandfather still sends money back to his family on a regular basis and he is 92... Their current economic situation has a lot to do with being part of the former Soviet bloc. That is why their economy's GDP is that much lower than ours, same as Poland's economy or Lithuania's or Bulgaria's or Romania's or Chechnya or Kazakhstan or Uzbekistan or any former soviet bloc country ya fuckin moron - need I go on fucktard? - read a bloody history book you silly prat!
chill pill LOL - - you spilled your kool aid and you didn't even know it...you still don't understand do you?
why are you getting all bent out of shape when the bandnews guy was praising the Czech climber's ability and how well he climbed? and he is right - it is much harder to buy a lot of the newer climbing hardware in former soviet bloc countries and Russia proper - don't be so sensitive man! go chill out smoke a joint and have yourself a big thick polish sausage..hmmm good!
badnews kouba is a Czech company producing nuts and cams for and extemly low price so these "former soviet block dudes" can defenitly afford it since it only costs like 20-40€
Over reliance on cams, once nuts placed correctly they are bomber. No moving parts and you have to take the time place them, I use cams nowhere near as much as I use cams
Sure you stated that last sentence correctly?
There's no such thing as over relying on gear...
Me too. I use cams waaaay more often then using cams..........
This comment is extra extra.
I never use cams except when I'm not using cams.
at 9.24 in, you had an excellent tapered vertical crack which you tried three stoppers and then abandoned them all for some unknown reason, and placed a poor cam not even set in the direction of a potential load? --- sorry man, but you need to learn how to properly place nuts and learn to trust them as they have the potential of holding tremendous fall factors and that crack was tapered - it was a perfect nut/stopper crack if I ever saw one - plus the nut you placed below, just before that, you barely set it and you had the fall direction of the nut nowhere close to the angle of a fall........people rely on cams way to much in my opinion - they are not as foolproof as people think - they can walk all around inside a placement if not set properly and if you do not use a long runner to stop the walking from occurring - work on placing stoppers and practice falling on them - when you start climbing 5.12 + trad routes it is almost entirely nothing but wired nuts for gear in most places......I don't know, maybe it is because I grew up with nuts first as friends didn't even come out until I had been climbing for a number of years already - I guess that is why I am such a big fan of stoppers, and hexes, as I know how well they work - anyway, great videos and great climbing for the most part, I really enjoy watching your channel - and I don't mean to be a know it all, however, you seem to be a really dedicated climber with great potential so I just thought I would pass on some knowledge you may not be aware of - that's all bro - it is not meant as a diss by any stretch - stay safe and peace out man
I bet if you tested the three nuts he placed and the cam. The cam would hold more weight then any of those nuts. But I agree with you, he should have stuck to nuts. The falls would have been so sweet when they popped. Unfortunately he didn't fall. Caught plenty of his big falls, they were all pretty sweet.
what three nuts he placed ? he didn't place any he just fumbled with his gear selected a couple and then went for the cam and jammed it in two feet above his head where he had no view of the inside of the crack - right at his head height there was a nicely tapered crack , flat on both sides go back to the time i marked and take a look- the proper nut would have held a truck in there.the crack it. instead he blindly jam a couple shitty cams into a crack above his head when he couldn't even see if it flared inside or if the crack began to expand a quarter inch just below the placement thus the cam could have simply walked its' way out - how can you place gear when you can't see where you are putting it - that is my point- cams are not magical devices....they still have to be placed properly...as for nuts, you obviously have not had enough experience placing them and falling on them - if you did you wouldn't make such comments about them popping.....back in the early 80s all we had were hexes and wall nuts - and new stiff shafted friends....I took lots of big whippers on plenty of nuts and then only failures I had were suspect placements in the first place.....
you are trying to tell me a properly seated nut at 9.01 min in - on that nice vertical tapered crack would have popped before the cam - awfully presumptuous of you - my whole point is, to lead trad you have to know how to use your whole rack not just reach for cams every time you need gear - which is what most all these young climbers do.....when you grow up climbing before the introduction of cams you end up being a much better-rounded trad climber....
badnews I'm more worried about the potential factor 1 fall onto a static sling at 20:46
I worried about how he dident protect his second on the first traverse.