I don't remember ever seeing your using the ground lugs on either on bonded or floating ground generators. Information available is somewhat contradictory. Would lover to hear your thoughts on the subject, both as a standalone and connected to home. Thanks for great videos. Look forward to them all.
It is always safest to ground a generator. If connected to a transfer switch then it will use the ground rod your house uses. When using as a portable there is local code, manufacturer recommendations and other guidelines like OSHA to consider. If the generator has the neutral bonded to the generator ground then it is fairly safe as the circuit breaker should trip on the generator if a live wire shorts on the frame. Floating neutral is a lot more dangerous. A live wire could short to the frame. The frame is now live, but no current flowing so no breaker will trip. Most inverter are floating neutral, but they might be able to get away with it because everything on the outside is plastic. Since most are bonded neutral to ground the danger is low. I am not an electrician or educated on the various codes so these opinions are just that. There are people much more qualified to answer.
If you are connecting to your home, the existing neutral-ground bond at your service entrance remains intact. In this case, you do not want the generator neutral bonded to the generator ground, but many/most consumer generators are internally-bonded. If you have two neutral-ground bonding points in the same system, you then can get current flowing in your ground system (including through earth ground, water pipes, etc) as the ground conductor is then paralleled with the neutral. This is not desirable, and with the N-G bonded at the generator, making any kind of better connection between the generator frame and earth ground actually increases the undesirable ground current. One way to reduce this current is to not carry the ground between your home electrical system and the generator (please note: everything stated in this paragraph is assuming that there is a permanent N-G bond at the generator head). The generator frame is still grounded to the generator windings, so the generator frame is still protected from any electrical faults to it at the generator. And your home electrical system neutral and grounds work as normal. This seems counterintuitive but if you draw it out on paper it becomes more clear. If you have the understanding, here's my recommendation: Install a heavy-duty toggle switch at the generator head between neutral and ground such that the operator has a choice. When you are using the generator standalone powering electrical devices directly, you want the N-G connection made at the generator (switch on). When you are connected to an existing electrical system which already has its neutral-ground bond, then you turn this switch off.
@@redmondjpI like the idea of having a generator with a heavy-duty toggle switch between neutral and ground providing a bonded or floating neutral option.
@@redmondjp This is a *way* overhyped issue. With an internally bonded portable generator connected to a bonded home service panel via a transfer switch or interlock, you have no potential for current flow in the home ground rod, water pipes, etc. The only place you have potential for unwanted current flow is in the ground wire of the cordset and wiring connecting the generator to the home panel as the ground wire is in parallel with the neutral wire at this point. This current flow is variable and difficult to quantify as it is proportional to the inbalance in the loads on each 120V pole as this is the only current flowing in the neutral. This current flow means that the bonded generator frame could potentially be at a voltage level above ground. The reality is the potential voltage differential between the generator frame and ground is very small and unlikely to be a hazard. This potential double bonding issue also has no effect on the circuit breakers or GFCI breakers / receptacles in the home's ability to trip on faults.
I come for the generators but stay for the mowers, blowers, chainsaws, go karts, etc, (and the occasional Mustie1 joke). If only James was producing these videos in the 80's and 90's, I wouldn't have scrapped as many generators as I did back then. Thinking back, most of them were probably just easy fixes. Thank you for the quality videos James.
People only need to read the comments if they want to know whether: "Hope this video helps someone" comes to pass, or not. Fact is, I still don't understand why you don't have 1.57M subs instead of 157k-makes no sense. Thanks for another great video James-keep em' coming. God bless.
@@jcondon1 // I'm glad that you don't ask-in fact, I never subscribe when repeatedly asked. I think a channels content should be the reason why people decide to subscribe and/or give a thumbs up; it's why I subscribed to yours and always give a 👍
I've collected broken things for years. I always want to fix broken things but always stumbled on something that eluded me, and my project sits. since watching your videos for the last few years I have realized that I wasn;t nearly as smart or informed as I thought I was. I have since repaired all my broken things (weed eaters, lawn mowers, even a generator). Neighbors have seen my success and have dropped off their broken things. I work in a power plant and have repaired things at work as well. My point is, you give free lessons on a case by case basis, your delivery is calm, clear and informed. And like me, the instant of victory still seems to give you the same euphoria it did on your first fix years ago. @@jcondon1
@@DanKoning777 agreed. I don't mind a reminder at the end with a quick like button picture and a chime. sometimes I forget and the video scrolls to the next video before i click. But the delivery on this channel is refreshing in that it is just about the broken thing and it's series of fixes. no politics, no preening, no opinions, no memes, no customer or product bashing and no "5 people couldn't fix this but I did!". Keep it up @jcondon1 .
Hi James. I’ve commented on several of your videos now, as I have recently acquired a lightly used but neglected generator and restored it. It looked like it was ready for the junk pile, but the engine ran great but the Nikki carburetor float needle wasn’t working. Just had to make sure the fuel valve was off when motor was off. Replaced the carburetor with a Chinese clone for $15 which can be hit or miss, but it runs the engine perfectly! I then used a multimeter to test resistance. I was getting wacky high resistance readings on one of the polls. I visually checked the brushes, slip rings and everything looked great. Nothing was melted, so I just decided to put it back together, plugged in a drill and spun it backwards, and excited the magnets. Once that happened, it immediately started producing power, and then after good voltage testing, I turned it off, checked all of the resistance, and everything checked out perfect. I then power washed the generator. I know that’s not advisable but I did tape off the vents on the powerhead and covered the carb + intake. It was the only way it was going to get clean. I pulled the muffler, scrubbed off the rust, put it back on and painted certain parts of the machine, and it looks like a five-year-old generator now, Mine has the regular overhead valve, Briggs & Stratton engine, but it runs excellent. The oil was not that dirty but changed it. I don’t think it was ever used too much despite it being 18 years old (2006). I say that based on the brushes which look originalnamd slightly used but not worn, also the fact that the engine oil was not that dirty and was not low.
A drill won't produce any useful voltage by turning it backwards by hand either... ESPECIALLY not nearly enough to pass through to the generator windings and energize them enough to "recharge" any magnets. 🤔 You just somehow got lucky at that exact moment, and the thing just decided to start working again. A trick like you're mentioning MAY have worked on a magneto magnet on a hit and miss engine WAY back in the day, but NOT on a mains voltage generator.
James, I just want to let you know how much I appreciate you and your dedication to making quality educational videos. I don't know how you came to end up where you are in life, with the skillset you have, but I am quite interested in your background story. I have the utmost respect you and your privacy, but if you should ever feel comfortable enough to share some things about your past and your education, I would be greatly interested. Thank you so much for the many hours I've spent watching you breath new life into the things you repair.
I have a masters in information technology, manage an IT group, manage projects, program etc. I knew very little about engine repair until my 40s. Always interested in problem solving and fixing things.
Yep, I've worked on MANY Holley automotive carburetors over the years, well before the days of billet metering blocks were everything has a removable "jet" in it to adjust things, and that is EXACTLY what I did back then. Solder up the hole and re-drill it with the correct number drill for the orifice size I wanted. Could always reheat the solder and flick the metering block against the workbench to remove it later if you wanted to return it to stock. There used to be a LOT of soldered up carbs out there on high-performance engines. Today, EVERY hole in the better carb models has a removable "jet" in every place there is a hole that meters air or fuel. Even the emulsion holes in the well are adjustable now.
Hah! A big reason I love watching you is that it takes me back to many happy days spent looking over my dad's shoulder as a kid, watching him fix and build stuff. He taught me that 2 wrench trick to get leverage in a tight spot. By 10 I could help and do some on my own. I was the parts cleaner for sure. No ultrasonic tank 😉. I miss him a lot.
On the broken carburetor float ear, drill a wire sized hole below the hole that the pin sets it and run a wire around the pin and thru the hole you drilled below. Then twist the wire to secure the loop that you have now holding the broken end of the float pin. Just a suggestion. I do love your videos. R, Phil
You should try fixing those 2 carbs with some JB weld. JB weld is resistant to gasoline and repairing gas tanks is one of the suggested uses. So just blob some on there and drill it out. There is no/very little pressure on those arms. personally, I think it will work fine.
I was wondering if one could drill a small hole through the remaining post and then tie the pin down with some wire. But I don't know if there is clearance/somewhere good to drill the hole so maybe a silly idea.
Great channel James. I've been thinking about getting a generator, but was put off by the cost. With your help/education I have overcome my fear of working on the generators and am cruising Facebook Marketplace looking for a broken one to see if I've learned enough to get it going.
You, sir, would be a great asset and be a priority to protect in a zombie apocalypse. You also need an apprentice to keep your tremendous skills alive for future generations.
Durafix aluminum brazing rods - can be brazed with a propane torch, low temperature aluminum repair, can be drilled / sanded / filed - may be useful to repair the ears on the float mount.
Hey James, you are a great mechanic. Love watching your videos. Switch to Heavy Duty Simple green. It's purple in color. Will not destroy aluminum carbs. Awesome cleaner! Keep on wrenching!
Arnt jets brass? So brazing would be better but yeah same idea. Fill the hole and redrill it out. Definitely a last resort kinda thing but would be do-able. If needed.
Soldering and redrilling of jets works well. Done it several time. Also I saved a carb with similar damage (broken float bracket) by riveting a drilled plate on outside of remaining broken arm rebuilding the fixing points of the float pin
Genius diagnosis on "Wrong Capacitor". I could not figure out how the genset could do what it did prior to you explaining it could be the wrong capacitor. I will log that one away in my memory for sure!
Hi James, I was referred to your video here by way of another TH-cam repair guy. I was a bit intimidated by seeing the duration of it, but was happy and engaged after the first 2 minutes of watching your mastery for the entire length of the segment. I hate to see the level of waste our society generates because they buy inexpensive imported merchandise, then don't maintain it and use it in ways that destroy the device and are too unmotivated to repair it and just toss it into the scrap heap. There aren't enough small engine repair shops around me and consequently, anytime that I call for a repair job, I hear the phrase " we're backed up 2-3 months". I decided that if it was going to get fixed in the time I needed to use it, then I'd just need to learn to do it myself. I started 15 years ago with string trimmers and small chain saws and found such delight in restoring them to functionality was so satisfying that this has become one of my spare-time passions. I really appreciate your methodical prioritization of diagnosing the problems with these generators and your clear explanation of how you think it through. Electrical issues seem so much more complex for me to comb through, thanks for demonstrating your various checks on resistance and continuity that exist in these generator systems, so helpful and thorough. A big thing that I learned from you is to check through the entire machine before ordering and waiting for parts to arrive, instead of just assuming there is only a single problem, getting the parts, and then realizing that more fixes are required. Thanks for demonstrating your talents here! I've been working on the restoration of a Honda generator and I think the last thing that needs attention is the recalibration of the OHV, but now I feel confident in going through assessing the generator head to see if it needs addressing at all.
Great video! Looks like you hit pay dirt on these gennys. B&S Vangard engines were some of the best engines they produced. Also, seeing how low the THD was and clean output, it makes me want to buy one from 🙂Campbell Hausfeld made some pretty decent stuff.
I will give you a high endorsement kidding all aside I like the way you do your business and get right to it and tell people what exactly how you doing things
James ya'll are the generator whisperer. I was thinking the problem was the diode. Then ya'll said the cap had the wrong capacity and I immediately sawer your point. Reminds me of my mother's accent, New Yawk Southern. Curious eh wot? So then the correct moves on the carb, ya'll do excellent work James. I am 76 and go to school with your thinking. Good work. The people who purchase your used gensets need to realize your work is better than, or good as new. Most times.
That's the same problem that I had with that Mikuni carb. It was on a Makita generator. I will make note of the jet sizes when I put the clone on. The engine is a Subaru 11 hp so the jet size may be ok. Another great and informative video, Thanks.
James, you frequently work on generators that are either in junkyards or abandoned on the street. That doesn't happen here. Rarely do I see any small engine machines of any kind either on a tree lawn or in a junkyard, not that I spend a lot of time in junkyards. Around here, when someone loses confidence or use for a machine, it goes on Marketplace or Craigslist.
@@jcondon1 I found a 5 year old champion 2000 watt inverter generator for $100. My thought was that if I can’t fix it I’d send it to you for a video. I’m guessing this generator has less than two hours on it. It was 4oz low on oil. I added oil and it fired right up. Sorry I couldn’t send it to you. Maybe next time
@@centauri61032 You need to cruise the upscale neighborhoods Sunday evenings, people clean out their garages on the weekends. Not the super wealthy neighborhoods as they pay people to dispose of their junk, but the neighborhoods just below that where the above average income (but normal) people live. Those are the people who discard lawnmowers and generators and just go buy a new one at the drop of a hat.
Hi James. I am watching your channel now for about 1 year. I would like to give you the name "the generator whisperer". I really love what i see in more or less each video and I am a bit of shocked each time about how you fix these machines with a little change of a cheap component. What I also like is when you show the non fixable units. Its not only sunshine in your videos. So thank you very much for the time and effort you put in your videos and please keep on doing what you´re great at. With a lot of greetings from Sweden...//Frank
A gentler way of shifting stuck float pivot pins. Buy a cheap automatic centre punch, grind the point flat and apply it to the pin on a low impact setting . Then adjust the impact a bit at a time to shift the pin . Ideal for some ( European ) carbs with a tapered pin that only go in one direction.
Hi James, just trying to help, as an Electronics engineer of 40 years experience I can tell you that if the 10uF had been fully charged, and ok I know it's unlikely, but if it was, discharging it with a screwdriver would not only blow a chunk out of the screwdriver but could destroy the Cap. It should be discharged through a high wattage resistor, about 470 R or 1K should do
Thanks. Need to get me a resistor with those specs. Although as you mentioned very I likely to ever have a charge since it is connected to a coil of wire which should discharge the resistor at engine shutdown. But always good to make sure. One of these days I will be surprised.
@@jcondon1 you ever hear of a channel called ElectroBOOM? hes always connecting himself to 120 volts or the odd capacitor. 😂 the arc makes me jump every time
I can't argue with your theory, but I've been discharging caps for over 50 years by shorting them. Most about 40 or 50 uf and up to 500 or 600 volts. A spark and they're discharged. Maybe thousands that way and no ill effects.
I did short out a 15uF - 7,500 V capacitor through a vacuum relay switch through 1" of 30 ga wire - sounded like a rifle shot! Note - that was a calibration rig to verify the Joule reading on a measurement device for hospital defibrillators.
Excellent, interesting and educational video channel. I watch every one. Really like that you focus on the job, no annoying music and no time wasted with fancy intros. A lot of youtubers could learn from how you do your videos.
I repaired a broken float shaft pedestal like that by drilling through the pedestal below the break and running a strand of copper wire through it and tied it off just enough to hold that float pin,, worked fine and it's still working years later !!
Very nice job. Regarding capacitor voltage, it can get up to 340 Vpk (volts peak) as the stator gets to the zero cross point ( the capacitor has a 90 degree phase shift to it).
Brilliant job, James. Once again you pull it out of the hat. From items that were destined for the tip, you've rescued them and someone will end up re-using them. Recycling at it's best. Great for the environment and not bad for the pocket either. Thanks for sharing with us. Have a great weekend.
The new "Dawn Powerwash" works VERY well on many things, and the only difference is the addition of alcohol. Wonder about using Dawn WITH alcohol added as a new formula? Maybe?
You should put insulated spade terminals on capacitor non-used terminals. You can use loctite 404 to fix o-rings. On your zip ties, use a knife to score the tail, then bend the tail back and fourth. It will make a clean cut with no sharp edges. On the second machine, It sounded like the exhaust was vibrating against something. Keep up the great work 👍👍
I have to disagree on the zip ties. Using the small flush cut nippers as he does, is quick, easy and leaves no burr. It leaves no chance of slipping with a knife and cutting a wire, hitting metal dulling the blade or cutting yourself.
This was really good. I've liked your videos so far. Your methodic, thorough restoring process is very pleasing to me. I'd never known you could have a brushless rotor. So this was very informative. Thanks for all your hard work.
I think every bench grinder uses a brushless motor, and this is just a larger version of that. It's called an induction motor. If you were to connect a gas motor to a bench grinder and spin it, it would produce electricity in the same way.
love your videos James, I've collected 8 generators off the curb and watch you so that I might restore them. I have done a few with a new carb but didn't know the specs like you have pointed out. you rock james.
I've been subbed to you for probably a year or maybe longer and your video production is phenomenal! Not to mention your ability and knowledge. I'm grateful that you share these skills with the world! Thank you.
James, you CAN use a pilot jet that is too big and re-jet it to a smaller one: I've done it before on a Subaru carb by using a drop of electrical solder in the brass and re-drilling it to the correct size. Worked fantastic in that application, and it looked almost identical to this one.
always very good and detailed content james its always amazing how therse are sent to scrap but with a bit of tlc and know how they are still very capable generators!
I use mineral oil in a spray bottle to clean all the contacts before I test. The green crusties on outlet terminals have caused me far too many poor OHM readings. So I just spray on the mineral oil (cheaper than deoxit) and use compressed air on everything. Then test. Its quite amazing how different the test readings are. I also do all the blade connectors etc. Seems to help and makes connections last. No gremlins afterwards when corrosion is left on connectors.
James, I ran into the same problem in my ultrasonic with the HF degreaser. I have had excellent results with ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser and Dawn. Thanks for the content, great channel!
James, I have seen many people put dish detergent in the ultrasonic cleaner.Most detergent will make the cleaner less efficient because they prevent the microscopic bubbles from collapsing.A dish detergent makes plenty of surface bubbles,but actually reduces the cleaning power of the cleaner. I worked in pneumatic instrumentation many years ago, and there are some very small orifices in the relays and Bourdon tubes and the best solution was no additives at all,and if any were desired,used in very small quantities.A Dish Washer detergent does not create suds and is the best choice,but use very sparingly. Try plain water and a very small amount of Dish Washer detergent.Remember to let the air dissipate for a few minutes after turning on for best results. I really like your channel and the very thorough explanations you give every step along the way.A real public service!
I have never dealt with this brand of carb before. I have dealt with mainly clones, Nikki, and Walbro on most of the stuff I have worked on. They have an interesting design.
Re: the poor/intermittent connection on that duplex receptacle...I'm not sure if you've heard of it or not, but there's a product called DeoxIT that I've found to be unrivaled at cleaning up rusted/corroded electrical connections. Comes in a spray and a liquid bottle with brush applicator. Not sure what's in it, but I've never had it fail. Cheers and thanks for another great video.
Compliments on your amazing restraint and self control, or good editing, for not cursing a blue streak, like the rest of us would be (c'mon, you know we would) while working on these machines.
Do go kart belt drive torque converters fit the tapered shaft on the crankshaft of engines designed for generators? If not someone should invent an adapter to make that work.
Looks like Breaks & Scrapem had a good deal on these engines and sold them to CH. They all have the un-useable idle solenoid and they look like they are missing plastic coverings. Great saves! Can't wait for part 2.
Another awesome job Jim!! I suspected like you that the capacitor was incorrect or an issue. Great save on the carburetor. Can’t wait to see the other 2. Thanks!
Maybe a method of saving the OEM carb is to drill a hole for .040 safety wire thru the pedestal for the float retaining rod. That would create a saddle to hold the float in position.
Hi James. A possible fix for your broken carb float pin ear could possibly be a small tin sleeve/bearing that could be quickly soldered in place. However you might need to take a drill and mill the remaining ear location lower to compensate for thickness of sleeve.
Hi James, I have a complete set of Tecumseh and Briggs manuals (engine only no power head) from 30 years ago when I was in business, they are heavy 35 lbs, maybe, if you want them they are free except for the shipping I have no idea what that would be. Rich
James you definitely deserve a WD40 sponsorship. I’m wondering if you put a splash in with your morning coffee as much as I see you use it 😂. I was watching another channel and seems he had a sponsorship by them, you should look into it. He has all kinds of their products he uses throughout his projects and it seems like a small sponsorship that doesn’t require ad reads and what not. He just says what it does while using it, similar to how you do now.
James, I use "Ultrasonic Cleaning Solution" in my ultrasonic cleaner. It states on the jug it's for carburetors and fuel injectors. I got it from Amazon and it seems to work just as good as the old formula degreaser from Harbor Freight.
Great job on these units, especially with troubleshooting the alternator, and the, swapping the jets to the aftermarket carb! Ive never seen those float bowl mounts break before. Ever. And to both carbs? I'm thinking previous owner reinstall error and forcing the bolt on the bowl when not aligned properly. Also, I cannot believe the great performance of that alternator, with clean sine wave, rock solid voltage and Hz, and the super low THD! Usually those old back ends were terrible with THD. One word of advice with your load bank - be sure to properly allow a cooldown of the coils by leaving the fan running for a few minutes after removing the loads. You mentioned how quickly it cooled down on a cold day, so maybe you left that fan on for a bit before shutting it down. Another super video!!!
The thing about capacitors or condensers is that you can substitute a larger value in microfarads or voltage, but it must be the same type. That 35 microfarad cap would work as long as it's the same type and the voltage rating is the same or better.
If I'm not mistaken the microfarad rating does make a difference in this application, it needs to be sized properly to create the proper phase shift. In "DC" applications it is indeed fine to put in a larger value.
I've never felt comfortable hammering on the ears of a carb. I always just use PB and channel locks. I hasn't failed me yet. I don't have the awesome punch set that you have though.
They probably made that jet bigger so that the clone carb would work in a wider set of applications. But, as we just learned, that is not a good idea. Or they should just include 3 different size jets so that you can come closer to what the application calls for.
Quick, low cost way of adding wheels to a generator. Harbor Freight pneumatic tires has 5/8" bearings (bushings?). Adding a 5/8" axle can be a pain and cost $$ ! If you have a good solid frame, you do not need a full axle. Buy Rotary 329 1/2 ID X 5/8 OD nylon bushing (eBay). Each wheel requires 2. Buy 1/2" x 3" bolt, nylock nut and regular (or jam) nut, 1/2" washers (buy 100, you will use them). Decide where you want the wheel to go and drill 1/2" hole through the frame. Insert bolt from the OUTSIDE of the wheel. Install jam nut then place the bolts through the hole in the frame and install the nylock on the inside of the frame. Use washers between the nuts and the frame for strength. You can take up the space between the wheel and the jam nut by adjusting the jam nut or adding washers as spacers.
Is this your full time job? It’s crazy there’s that much need/demand for repair and or resale. Very impressed with all of your videos! I’ve learned so much. Have you thought of doing an incremental instructional series?
I can't tell you how many times I've thought the same thing. The thing is, over time that's basically what he's been doing-just not a point by point "how to" as it relates to each specific issue(s). Btw; I think he'd be a great teacher.
James has actually answered who he is and what he does in another comment here. Corporate IT, project leader etc etc so this is a side hobby that appeals to his Find out and fixit side!
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I don't remember ever seeing your using the ground lugs on either on bonded or floating ground generators. Information available is somewhat contradictory. Would lover to hear your thoughts on the subject, both as a standalone and connected to home. Thanks for great videos. Look forward to them all.
It is always safest to ground a generator. If connected to a transfer switch then it will use the ground rod your house uses. When using as a portable there is local code, manufacturer recommendations and other guidelines like OSHA to consider. If the generator has the neutral bonded to the generator ground then it is fairly safe as the circuit breaker should trip on the generator if a live wire shorts on the frame. Floating neutral is a lot more dangerous. A live wire could short to the frame. The frame is now live, but no current flowing so no breaker will trip. Most inverter are floating neutral, but they might be able to get away with it because everything on the outside is plastic. Since most are bonded neutral to ground the danger is low. I am not an electrician or educated on the various codes so these opinions are just that. There are people much more qualified to answer.
If you are connecting to your home, the existing neutral-ground bond at your service entrance remains intact. In this case, you do not want the generator neutral bonded to the generator ground, but many/most consumer generators are internally-bonded. If you have two neutral-ground bonding points in the same system, you then can get current flowing in your ground system (including through earth ground, water pipes, etc) as the ground conductor is then paralleled with the neutral. This is not desirable, and with the N-G bonded at the generator, making any kind of better connection between the generator frame and earth ground actually increases the undesirable ground current. One way to reduce this current is to not carry the ground between your home electrical system and the generator (please note: everything stated in this paragraph is assuming that there is a permanent N-G bond at the generator head). The generator frame is still grounded to the generator windings, so the generator frame is still protected from any electrical faults to it at the generator. And your home electrical system neutral and grounds work as normal. This seems counterintuitive but if you draw it out on paper it becomes more clear.
If you have the understanding, here's my recommendation: Install a heavy-duty toggle switch at the generator head between neutral and ground such that the operator has a choice. When you are using the generator standalone powering electrical devices directly, you want the N-G connection made at the generator (switch on). When you are connected to an existing electrical system which already has its neutral-ground bond, then you turn this switch off.
@@redmondjp Power Watchdog Hughes Autoformers Ground Neutral Plug a.co/d/jbUkKII
@@redmondjpI like the idea of having a generator with a heavy-duty toggle switch between neutral and ground providing a bonded or floating neutral option.
@@redmondjp
This is a *way* overhyped issue. With an internally bonded portable generator connected to a bonded home service panel via a transfer switch or interlock, you have no potential for current flow in the home ground rod, water pipes, etc. The only place you have potential for unwanted current flow is in the ground wire of the cordset and wiring connecting the generator to the home panel as the ground wire is in parallel with the neutral wire at this point.
This current flow is variable and difficult to quantify as it is proportional to the inbalance in the loads on each 120V pole as this is the only current flowing in the neutral. This current flow means that the bonded generator frame could potentially be at a voltage level above ground.
The reality is the potential voltage differential between the generator frame and ground is very small and unlikely to be a hazard. This potential double bonding issue also has no effect on the circuit breakers or GFCI breakers / receptacles in the home's ability to trip on faults.
The man with the cleanest tea leaf strainer in the USA does it again. Well done James.
I come for the generators but stay for the mowers, blowers, chainsaws, go karts, etc, (and the occasional Mustie1 joke). If only James was producing these videos in the 80's and 90's, I wouldn't have scrapped as many generators as I did back then. Thinking back, most of them were probably just easy fixes. Thank you for the quality videos James.
James and Mustie1 taught me a lot. I definitely have no fear or trepidation about fixing small engines any longer.
People only need to read the comments if they want to know whether: "Hope this video helps someone" comes to pass, or not. Fact is, I still don't understand why you don't have 1.57M subs instead of 157k-makes no sense. Thanks for another great video James-keep em' coming. God bless.
Maybe if a ask people to subscribe more would, but that is not my style. I am surprised anyone watches.
@@jcondon1 // I'm glad that you don't ask-in fact, I never subscribe when repeatedly asked. I think a channels content should be the reason why people decide to subscribe and/or give a thumbs up; it's why I subscribed to yours and always give a 👍
@@DanKoning777 I find it particularly annoying when folks ask you to like and subscribe before you've even had a chance to watch the video!
I've collected broken things for years. I always want to fix broken things but always stumbled on something that eluded me, and my project sits. since watching your videos for the last few years I have realized that I wasn;t nearly as smart or informed as I thought I was. I have since repaired all my broken things (weed eaters, lawn mowers, even a generator). Neighbors have seen my success and have dropped off their broken things. I work in a power plant and have repaired things at work as well. My point is, you give free lessons on a case by case basis, your delivery is calm, clear and informed. And like me, the instant of victory still seems to give you the same euphoria it did on your first fix years ago. @@jcondon1
@@DanKoning777 agreed. I don't mind a reminder at the end with a quick like button picture and a chime. sometimes I forget and the video scrolls to the next video before i click. But the delivery on this channel is refreshing in that it is just about the broken thing and it's series of fixes. no politics, no preening, no opinions, no memes, no customer or product bashing and no "5 people couldn't fix this but I did!". Keep it up @jcondon1 .
Hi James. I’ve commented on several of your videos now, as I have recently acquired a lightly used but neglected generator and restored it. It looked like it was ready for the junk pile, but the engine ran great but the Nikki carburetor float needle wasn’t working. Just had to make sure the fuel valve was off when motor was off. Replaced the carburetor with a Chinese clone for $15 which can be hit or miss, but it runs the engine perfectly! I then used a multimeter to test resistance. I was getting wacky high resistance readings on one of the polls. I visually checked the brushes, slip rings and everything looked great. Nothing was melted, so I just decided to put it back together, plugged in a drill and spun it backwards, and excited the magnets. Once that happened, it immediately started producing power, and then after good voltage testing, I turned it off, checked all of the resistance, and everything checked out perfect. I then power washed the generator. I know that’s not advisable but I did tape off the vents on the powerhead and covered the carb + intake. It was the only way it was going to get clean. I pulled the muffler, scrubbed off the rust, put it back on and painted certain parts of the machine, and it looks like a five-year-old generator now, Mine has the regular overhead valve, Briggs & Stratton engine, but it runs excellent. The oil was not that dirty but changed it. I don’t think it was ever used too much despite it being 18 years old (2006). I say that based on the brushes which look originalnamd slightly used but not worn, also the fact that the engine oil was not that dirty and was not low.
The resistance when it isn't running should NOT have changed because the magnetic field "got stronger" when you spun a drill backwards...
A drill won't produce any useful voltage by turning it backwards by hand either...
ESPECIALLY not nearly enough to pass through to the generator windings and energize them enough to "recharge" any magnets. 🤔
You just somehow got lucky at that exact moment, and the thing just decided to start working again.
A trick like you're mentioning MAY have worked on a magneto magnet on a hit and miss engine WAY back in the day, but NOT on a mains voltage generator.
James, I just want to let you know how much I appreciate you and your dedication to making quality educational videos. I don't know how you came to end up where you are in life, with the skillset you have, but I am quite interested in your background story. I have the utmost respect you and your privacy, but if you should ever feel comfortable enough to share some things about your past and your education, I would be greatly interested. Thank you so much for the many hours I've spent watching you breath new life into the things you repair.
I have a masters in information technology, manage an IT group, manage projects, program etc. I knew very little about engine repair until my 40s. Always interested in problem solving and fixing things.
Thanks James, both interesting and encouraging for those of us coming at this from less traditional backgrounds(medicine in my case)
Thanks for sharing! That is very interesting indeed to know!!
If you have to on a jet that is drilled out too large you can always solder it shut and redrill it. It's worked in an emergency for myself.
Yep, I've worked on MANY Holley automotive carburetors over the years, well before the days of billet metering blocks were everything has a removable "jet" in it to adjust things, and that is EXACTLY what I did back then. Solder up the hole and re-drill it with the correct number drill for the orifice size I wanted. Could always reheat the solder and flick the metering block against the workbench to remove it later if you wanted to return it to stock.
There used to be a LOT of soldered up carbs out there on high-performance engines.
Today, EVERY hole in the better carb models has a removable "jet" in every place there is a hole that meters air or fuel. Even the emulsion holes in the well are adjustable now.
Hah! A big reason I love watching you is that it takes me back to many happy days spent looking over my dad's shoulder as a kid, watching him fix and build stuff. He taught me that 2 wrench trick to get leverage in a tight spot. By 10 I could help and do some on my own. I was the parts cleaner for sure. No ultrasonic tank 😉. I miss him a lot.
On the broken carburetor float ear, drill a wire sized hole below the hole that the pin sets it and run a wire around the pin and thru the hole you drilled below. Then twist the wire to secure the loop that you have now holding the broken end of the float pin. Just a suggestion. I do love your videos. R, Phil
Dab some JB Weld on the repair with the wire and call it done.
@@kriswright1022 or rebuild the ear with JB Weld and drill a hole for the pin.
Or Tig weld a new mount
I have been pleasantly surprised in the past with JB Weld and I believe its worth a try but its all about precision..
@@rodh2168 That's exactly what I said while watching lol
You should try fixing those 2 carbs with some JB weld. JB weld is resistant to gasoline and repairing gas tanks is one of the suggested uses. So just blob some on there and drill it out. There is no/very little pressure on those arms. personally, I think it will work fine.
Yes thanks , that's exactly what I came here to see if anyone else commented JB weld 👍
I was wondering if one could drill a small hole through the remaining post and then tie the pin down with some wire. But I don't know if there is clearance/somewhere good to drill the hole so maybe a silly idea.
Great channel James. I've been thinking about getting a generator, but was put off by the cost. With your help/education I have overcome my fear of working on the generators and am cruising Facebook Marketplace looking for a broken one to see if I've learned enough to get it going.
Good luck sir, I have gotten old mowers that wouldn't run and with a few minor repairs had them running good. 😊
You, sir, would be a great asset and be a priority to protect in a zombie apocalypse. You also need an apprentice to keep your tremendous skills alive for future generations.
Durafix aluminum brazing rods - can be brazed with a propane torch, low temperature aluminum repair, can be drilled / sanded / filed - may be useful to repair the ears on the float mount.
I am constantly amazed by the stuff you manage to get working, James.
Just want to say thank you for explaining what you are doing and teaching as you go.
Hey James, you are a great mechanic. Love watching your videos. Switch to Heavy Duty Simple green. It's purple in color. Will not destroy aluminum carbs. Awesome cleaner! Keep on wrenching!
You actually can put material back in a jet that is too big (39:20). Solder the hole closed and redrill for what you need.
Arnt jets brass? So brazing would be better but yeah same idea. Fill the hole and redrill it out. Definitely a last resort kinda thing but would be do-able. If needed.
Could you fill with high temp epoxy and then drill it ?
Soldering and redrilling of jets works well. Done it several time.
Also I saved a carb with similar damage (broken float bracket) by riveting a drilled plate on outside of remaining broken arm rebuilding the fixing points of the float pin
@@ggiiccI jb welded a float arm and it held.
Genius diagnosis on "Wrong Capacitor". I could not figure out how the genset could do what it did prior to you explaining it could be the wrong capacitor. I will log that one away in my memory for sure!
It was acting more like an induction machine.
Hi James, I was referred to your video here by way of another TH-cam repair guy. I was a bit intimidated by seeing the duration of it, but was happy and engaged after the first 2 minutes of watching your mastery for the entire length of the segment. I hate to see the level of waste our society generates because they buy inexpensive imported merchandise, then don't maintain it and use it in ways that destroy the device and are too unmotivated to repair it and just toss it into the scrap heap. There aren't enough small engine repair shops around me and consequently, anytime that I call for a repair job, I hear the phrase " we're backed up 2-3 months". I decided that if it was going to get fixed in the time I needed to use it, then I'd just need to learn to do it myself. I started 15 years ago with string trimmers and small chain saws and found such delight in restoring them to functionality was so satisfying that this has become one of my spare-time passions. I really appreciate your methodical prioritization of diagnosing the problems with these generators and your clear explanation of how you think it through. Electrical issues seem so much more complex for me to comb through, thanks for demonstrating your various checks on resistance and continuity that exist in these generator systems, so helpful and thorough. A big thing that I learned from you is to check through the entire machine before ordering and waiting for parts to arrive, instead of just assuming there is only a single problem, getting the parts, and then realizing that more fixes are required. Thanks for demonstrating your talents here! I've been working on the restoration of a Honda generator and I think the last thing that needs attention is the recalibration of the OHV, but now I feel confident in going through assessing the generator head to see if it needs addressing at all.
Another in along line of informative instructional Videos from James Condon awesome content,thank you
Great video! Looks like you hit pay dirt on these gennys. B&S Vangard engines were some of the best engines they produced. Also, seeing how low the THD was and clean output, it makes me want to buy one from 🙂Campbell Hausfeld made some pretty decent stuff.
Just started the video. WOW, 4 generators You're bound to get 1 or more working!!
I will give you a high endorsement kidding all aside I like the way you do your business and get right to it and tell people what exactly how you doing things
James ya'll are the generator whisperer. I was thinking the problem was the diode. Then ya'll said the cap had the wrong capacity and I immediately sawer your point. Reminds me of my mother's accent, New Yawk Southern. Curious eh wot? So then the correct moves on the carb, ya'll do excellent work James. I am 76 and go to school with your thinking. Good work. The people who purchase your used gensets need to realize your work is better than, or good as new. Most times.
I have a combined Boston/NY accent. Not a great combo.
Well done. It's what I've come to expect. It's why I keep waiting for the next video.
I like the design of these Campbell Hausfeld generators you are working on. They look pretty bulletproof.
Amazingly clean output from those guys.
Its hardly a shock that they're working so well - good job!
That's the same problem that I had with that Mikuni carb. It was on a Makita generator. I will make note of the jet sizes when I put the clone on. The engine is a Subaru 11 hp so the jet size may be ok. Another great and informative video, Thanks.
The Subaru clones for the EX27 and EX31 are too rich. The smaller EX13, EX17 and EX21 the clone works will with no modification.
James, you frequently work on generators that are either in junkyards or abandoned on the street. That doesn't happen here. Rarely do I see any small engine machines of any kind either on a tree lawn or in a junkyard, not that I spend a lot of time in junkyards. Around here, when someone loses confidence or use for a machine, it goes on Marketplace or Craigslist.
Thankfully I have a lot of subscribers in the area who find this stuff and bring it to me.
I have the same issue in my area. I think I must have someone like James in my area snatching up all the goods. ;)
@@jcondon1 I found a 5 year old champion 2000 watt inverter generator for $100. My thought was that if I can’t fix it I’d send it to you for a video. I’m guessing this generator has less than two hours on it. It was 4oz low on oil. I added oil and it fired right up. Sorry I couldn’t send it to you. Maybe next time
Yeah, Mustie1 has really good luck finding 'junk' to fix also. Maybe a New England area thing to just toss things away more often?
@@centauri61032 You need to cruise the upscale neighborhoods Sunday evenings, people clean out their garages on the weekends. Not the super wealthy neighborhoods as they pay people to dispose of their junk, but the neighborhoods just below that where the above average income (but normal) people live. Those are the people who discard lawnmowers and generators and just go buy a new one at the drop of a hat.
Theses training video videos will be available for other people to watch and learn for many years and You can be proud of yourself ❤
Thanks
Hi James. I am watching your channel now for about 1 year. I would like to give you the name "the generator whisperer". I really love what i see in more or less each video and I am a bit of shocked each time about how you fix these machines with a little change of a cheap component. What I also like is when you show the non fixable units. Its not only sunshine in your videos. So thank you very much for the time and effort you put in your videos and please keep on doing what you´re great at. With a lot of greetings from Sweden...//Frank
Thanks Frank!
A gentler way of shifting stuck float pivot pins. Buy a cheap automatic centre punch, grind the point flat and apply it to the pin on a low impact setting . Then adjust the impact a bit at a time to shift the pin . Ideal for some ( European ) carbs with a tapered pin that only go in one direction.
Hi James, just trying to help, as an Electronics engineer of 40 years experience I can tell you that if the 10uF had been fully charged, and ok I know it's unlikely, but if it was, discharging it with a screwdriver would not only blow a chunk out of the screwdriver but could destroy the Cap. It should be discharged through a high wattage resistor, about 470 R or 1K should do
Thanks. Need to get me a resistor with those specs. Although as you mentioned very I likely to ever have a charge since it is connected to a coil of wire which should discharge the resistor at engine shutdown. But always good to make sure. One of these days I will be surprised.
@@jcondon1 you ever hear of a channel called ElectroBOOM? hes always connecting himself to 120 volts or the odd capacitor. 😂 the arc makes me jump every time
@@azza-in_this_day_and_age me too
I can't argue with your theory, but I've been discharging caps for over 50 years by shorting them. Most about 40 or 50 uf and up to 500 or 600 volts. A spark and they're discharged. Maybe thousands that way and no ill effects.
I did short out a 15uF - 7,500 V capacitor through a vacuum relay switch through 1" of 30 ga wire - sounded like a rifle shot! Note - that was a calibration rig to verify the Joule reading on a measurement device for hospital defibrillators.
Excellent, interesting and educational video channel. I watch every one. Really like that you focus on the job, no annoying music and no time wasted with fancy intros. A lot of youtubers could learn from how you do your videos.
I absolutely love your videos, very educational and informative.
Ty for sharing your knowledge with us
I repaired a broken float shaft pedestal like that by drilling through the pedestal below the break and running a strand of copper wire through it and tied it off just enough to hold that float pin,, worked fine and it's still working years later !!
Very nice job. Regarding capacitor voltage, it can get up to 340 Vpk (volts peak) as the stator gets to the zero cross point ( the capacitor has a 90 degree phase shift to it).
Nice work James!! Look forward to Part 2 !!! Thanks
Brilliant job, James. Once again you pull it out of the hat. From items that were destined for the tip, you've rescued them and someone will end up re-using them. Recycling at it's best. Great for the environment and not bad for the pocket either. Thanks for sharing with us. Have a great weekend.
The new "Dawn Powerwash" works VERY well on many things, and the only difference is the addition of alcohol. Wonder about using Dawn WITH alcohol added as a new formula? Maybe?
Dawn Powerwash is fantastic!
You should put insulated spade terminals on capacitor non-used terminals. You can use loctite 404 to fix o-rings. On your zip ties, use a knife to score the tail, then bend the tail back and fourth. It will make a clean cut with no sharp edges. On the second machine, It sounded like the exhaust was vibrating against something. Keep up the great work 👍👍
I have to disagree on the zip ties. Using the small flush cut nippers as he does, is quick, easy and leaves no burr. It leaves no chance of slipping with a knife and cutting a wire, hitting metal dulling the blade or cutting yourself.
That second machine definitely had something going on the exhaust. It sounded notably different.
This was really good. I've liked your videos so far. Your methodic, thorough restoring process is very pleasing to me. I'd never known you could have a brushless rotor. So this was very informative. Thanks for all your hard work.
I think every bench grinder uses a brushless motor, and this is just a larger version of that. It's called an induction motor. If you were to connect a gas motor to a bench grinder and spin it, it would produce electricity in the same way.
love your videos James, I've collected 8 generators off the curb and watch you so that I might restore them. I have done a few with a new carb but didn't know the specs like you have pointed out. you rock james.
I just want to compliment you on your very detailed work. I have learned a lot from your videos. Thankyou James for sharing your knowledge!
A splendid episode!! TWO for the price of one! Thank you
The light was so embarrassed by the lack of power, it gave up and fell off. 😂
Multiple times at that...
Great finds from Chris, good work James 😊
Nice job Doc. , those two will make some people happy.
I've been subbed to you for probably a year or maybe longer and your video production is phenomenal! Not to mention your ability and knowledge. I'm grateful that you share these skills with the world! Thank you.
James, you CAN use a pilot jet that is too big and re-jet it to a smaller one: I've done it before on a Subaru carb by using a drop of electrical solder in the brass and re-drilling it to the correct size. Worked fantastic in that application, and it looked almost identical to this one.
always very good and detailed content james its always amazing how therse are sent to scrap but with a bit of tlc and know how they are still very capable generators!
Love this guys stuff every time
Awesome job James, love those Vanguard motors!
I use mineral oil in a spray bottle to clean all the contacts before I test. The green crusties on outlet terminals have caused me far too many poor OHM readings. So I just spray on the mineral oil (cheaper than deoxit) and use compressed air on everything. Then test. Its quite amazing how different the test readings are. I also do all the blade connectors etc.
Seems to help and makes connections last. No gremlins afterwards when corrosion is left on connectors.
James, I ran into the same problem in my ultrasonic with the HF degreaser. I have had excellent results with ZEP Heavy Duty Citrus Degreaser and Dawn. Thanks for the content, great channel!
James,
I have seen many people put dish detergent in the ultrasonic cleaner.Most detergent will make the cleaner less efficient because they prevent the microscopic bubbles from collapsing.A dish detergent makes plenty of surface bubbles,but actually reduces the cleaning power of the cleaner.
I worked in pneumatic instrumentation many years ago, and there are some very small orifices in the relays and Bourdon tubes and the best solution was no additives at
all,and if any were desired,used in very small quantities.A Dish Washer detergent does not create suds and is the best choice,but use very sparingly.
Try plain water and a very small amount of Dish Washer detergent.Remember to let the air dissipate for a few minutes after turning on for best results.
I really like your channel and the very thorough explanations you give every step along the way.A real public service!
Awesome low THD on those gen heads .
The carb designer was a huge fan of Van Gogh .
Ha ha. I had to think about that for a while, before the coin dropped.
Cutting off one of his ears
What did you say? 😅
Poor lamp always fallover when not getting power😂. Great job and i learnt something new about the capacitor thanks
I have never dealt with this brand of carb before. I have dealt with mainly clones, Nikki, and Walbro on most of the stuff I have worked on. They have an interesting design.
Re: the poor/intermittent connection on that duplex receptacle...I'm not sure if you've heard of it or not, but there's a product called DeoxIT that I've found to be unrivaled at cleaning up rusted/corroded electrical connections. Comes in a spray and a liquid bottle with brush applicator. Not sure what's in it, but I've never had it fail. Cheers and thanks for another great video.
Compliments on your amazing restraint and self control, or good editing, for not cursing a blue streak, like the rest of us would be (c'mon, you know we would) while working on these machines.
Those vanguard engines are tuff motors. Great for go karts
Do go kart belt drive torque converters fit the tapered shaft on the crankshaft of engines designed for generators? If not someone should invent an adapter to make that work.
Looks like Breaks & Scrapem had a good deal on these engines and sold them to CH. They all have the un-useable idle solenoid and they look like they are missing plastic coverings. Great saves! Can't wait for part 2.
Cascade Pods for the ultrasonic cleaner. There is a youtube video where a guy tests several popular cleaners and the Cascade Pods did really well
Cleaning Aluminum alloys, which don't hold up to Lye?
I have reduced the size of fuel jets before by soldering the hole shut then redrilling to a smaller size.
Glad those generation machines are being worked on by Mr Condon
Thanks for taking us along
Love your style
Another awesome job Jim!! I suspected like you that the capacitor was incorrect or an issue. Great save on the carburetor. Can’t wait to see the other 2. Thanks!
Instead of just cutting the zip tie anywhere, if you cut the tie close to the end it passes thru, you can reuse the tie on a smaller diameter objest.
I've been using Spray 9 as my ultra sonic mix with great success ,any thoughts?
Maybe a method of saving the OEM carb is to drill a hole for .040 safety wire thru the pedestal for the float retaining rod. That would create a saddle to hold the float in position.
Congratulations James. I'm impressed!
Hi James. A possible fix for your broken carb float pin ear could possibly be a small tin sleeve/bearing that could be quickly soldered in place. However you might need to take a drill and mill the remaining ear location lower to compensate for thickness of sleeve.
Hi James, I have a complete set of Tecumseh and Briggs manuals (engine only no power head) from 30 years ago when I was in business, they are heavy 35 lbs, maybe, if you want them they are free except for the shipping I have no idea what that would be.
Rich
James you definitely deserve a WD40 sponsorship. I’m wondering if you put a splash in with your morning coffee as much as I see you use it 😂. I was watching another channel and seems he had a sponsorship by them, you should look into it. He has all kinds of their products he uses throughout his projects and it seems like a small sponsorship that doesn’t require ad reads and what not. He just says what it does while using it, similar to how you do now.
So sad they were just left behind 😢
Very nice work. Hope you show the other two. Many thanks
James, I use "Ultrasonic Cleaning Solution" in my ultrasonic cleaner. It states on the jug it's for carburetors and fuel injectors. I got it from Amazon and it seems to work just as good as the old formula degreaser from Harbor Freight.
Those 2 work great. Clean power.
Very good video again James , I really enjoy them .
Great job on these units, especially with troubleshooting the alternator, and the, swapping the jets to the aftermarket carb! Ive never seen those float bowl mounts break before. Ever. And to both carbs? I'm thinking previous owner reinstall error and forcing the bolt on the bowl when not aligned properly. Also, I cannot believe the great performance of that alternator, with clean sine wave, rock solid voltage and Hz, and the super low THD! Usually those old back ends were terrible with THD. One word of advice with your load bank - be sure to properly allow a cooldown of the coils by leaving the fan running for a few minutes after removing the loads. You mentioned how quickly it cooled down on a cold day, so maybe you left that fan on for a bit before shutting it down. Another super video!!!
I do leave them on for a few minutes. Just edit a lot of of it out.
Gotta say very clean power, I'm thinking it's the it's the orientation of the combustion event in relation to it's position on the sine wave, nice job
You never cease to amaze me, great job. Thanks for sharing.
I like your Swift-e load test unit. Slick.. Nice job, James.
What a score. 4 vanguard engines? Even if none of the power heads could be fixed, that’s a killer find.
Was hoping I would get at least one parts machine. Still 2 more to go.
The thing about capacitors or condensers is that you can substitute a larger value in microfarads or voltage, but it must be the same type. That 35 microfarad cap would work as long as it's the same type and the voltage rating is the same or better.
If I'm not mistaken the microfarad rating does make a difference in this application, it needs to be sized properly to create the proper phase shift. In "DC" applications it is indeed fine to put in a larger value.
I've never felt comfortable hammering on the ears of a carb. I always just use PB and channel locks. I hasn't failed me yet. I don't have the awesome punch set that you have though.
They probably made that jet bigger so that the clone carb would work in a wider set of applications. But, as we just learned, that is not a good idea. Or they should just include 3 different size jets so that you can come closer to what the application calls for.
Time for some wheel kits and you will be top shelf!
Fantastic work!! Great analysis and THANKS for all the explanations!!
Quite enjoyable to watch. 👍
Quick, low cost way of adding wheels to a generator.
Harbor Freight pneumatic tires has 5/8" bearings (bushings?). Adding a 5/8" axle can be a pain and cost $$ ! If you have a good solid frame, you do not need a full axle.
Buy Rotary 329 1/2 ID X 5/8 OD nylon bushing (eBay). Each wheel requires 2. Buy 1/2" x 3" bolt, nylock nut and regular (or jam) nut, 1/2" washers (buy 100, you will use them). Decide where you want the wheel to go and drill 1/2" hole through the frame. Insert bolt from the OUTSIDE of the wheel. Install jam nut then place the bolts through the hole in the frame and install the nylock on the inside of the frame. Use washers between the nuts and the frame for strength. You can take up the space between the wheel and the jam nut by adjusting the jam nut or adding washers as spacers.
You can TIG/MIG material back on that support then drill it out.
Is this your full time job? It’s crazy there’s that much need/demand for repair and or resale. Very impressed with all of your videos! I’ve learned so much. Have you thought of doing an incremental instructional series?
I can't tell you how many times I've thought the same thing. The thing is, over time that's basically what he's been doing-just not a point by point "how to" as it relates to each specific issue(s). Btw; I think he'd be a great teacher.
James has actually answered who he is and what he does in another comment here.
Corporate IT, project leader etc etc so this is a side hobby that appeals to his Find out and fixit side!
@@JohnSmith-yv6eq He's using the same capabilities as in his day job.
Very nice! Ihope that the other two turned out well.
Awesome vid James. I just found your channel and subscribed. Thank you for your teaching and thorough approach.
A double feature. Awesome James! Can't wait 'till next weeks video. As always, great work!
Excellent, thanks.
Watching you add oil to all the various engines I would like to suggest a red Line funnel which works quite well.
Yet another enjoyable video James