Greetings from Berlin Germany. Thank you very much sir for your very useful information and tips. I just got a 2001 Suzuki VL800 with 14,000 ori miles on it in pristine condition. Very happy with the purchase. Your channel will help me keep it that way. Thanks again.
Hello from Western Pennsylvania to Berlin Germany. Thank you so much for your comment. The Suzuki is such a comfortable bike. Your bike being a 2001 should have carbs , not fuel injected. I wish mine had carbs. A lot better to work on. All my best to you and your family. Norman.
Certainly good advice all around. Appreciate you taking the time. My C50 just turned over 8k and I replaced all fluids and plugs and new tires. Should be good for the next few years at least.
I have a 2009 c50... love it... but where can i look to find parts... bought it used, 11k miles, garage kept , changed oil and rear gear oil change, want to lube the drive shaft next. But I want extra parts because to keep it
I look on E-Bay. I buy parts for all three of my bikes. Sometimes you have to word what you are looking for different ways to get what you are looking for. One thing about the C50, you need to get the air filter they have. The air flow has to be right and no air leaks in the system where it goes into the intake. These air filters are not cheep. Hope this helps you. Norman.
I had a 2007 C50 4yrs ago with 18000 miles on it i was the 2nd owner final drive went out on it the bike was well maintained i had about 150.00 in a new driveshaft easy fix from what i could see the factory did not grease the shaft enough bone dry all rust there's other guys on youtube with low miles bikes that had the same problem if you have one of these bikes i would highly recommend that you tear it down and grease it all i can tell you it's not fun when it goes
Hi Matthew, Suzuki sure need to up their game on these bikes. So many are having the idle problem like I am having. Now that I have my Harley to ride I am going to try to fix the Suzuki C 50 boulevard. When the C 50 runs it is such a great bike. Norman
@@2001himax HI Norman i agree i had that bike for one month i put 1500 miles on it and it let me down twice the first week riding it i was 10 miles from home it just shut off no power whatsoever to the bike brought the bike back home the next day went to work on it turn the key on everything work the bike fired right up i never did find out what caused it i think it had something to do with that rollover switch i ended up giving the bike away to someone i knew don't get me wrong i like the bike i just think it was a lemon when the shaft went on it i was 45 miles from home 3 hours in the hot sun before i got help hope you get your problems figured out with yours
I have a 1997 yamaha Royal Star that has slack in the driveline. when it has been ridden a while when i start off or slow down there is play in the drive. in a car i would say the universal joint is bad. I am concerned i may have to have the whole rear unit replaced. The rear tire has been removed 3 times in the last 8 weeks for replacement and then repairs. Also the whole hydraulic clutch line and slave assembly has been replaced. now this issue just started. Do you know of anyway to check it without tearing it down. Thanks i found this video very informative.
Hi Benny, First get the rear wheel off the ground and turn it slowly to hear if there is any noise and it turns smoothly. If it's OK I would start by doing the easiest thing first. Drain the final drive oil out into a clean container. Look at it, pour some into a jar and see if it looks like there is any metal in the oil. If so your trouble could be in the drive in that hub. If it looks like it's OK then you would need to remove the rear wheel and see if anything is a miss in the shaft by turning it. See if your shaft will come out like mine in the Suzuki. If it does then you can see if the splines are good at the front of the shaft. If you find you need parts try looking on E-Bay for parts from bike salvage or wrecked bikes parts. I have bought parts that way and saved a ton of money. This is a start. Norman
Hi Mitchell, th-cam.com/video/XsnaqTudpVk/w-d-xo.html On this video you can see what it looks like with the cover off. My nephew owned the bike and sold it so we don't have the book any longer. I think you remove the cover to replace the seal. See if you can buy the seal from E-Bay . Once you have the seal it may help to see how it sets in place. It's not a hard job to remove the cover but a lot of time to do it. Also you may want to get a new gasket for the cover. Hope this helps. Norman.
I have an 06 M50. I put 3000 miles on it parked it for 10 years. I cleaned the tank out changed the oil got it running again. I have noticed the handlebars vibrate pretty bad at 55 mph and over. Any ideas what it could be.
Hi Jeffrey, First thing that comes to mind is setting for that long is it has a flat spot on the tire. First get the front wheel off the ground then take something and put under the wheel. It can be anything like a stone that comes close to the tire but does not touch it . Now turn the wheel slowly and watch the gap between the tire and the stone. Is there one spot where the tire has a larger gap? If so take a hair dryer and heat that spot then take a ride say 10 , 20 miles and see if that helps. If there is is no spot heat the whole tire. Set the dryer aimed at it and turn the tire slowly to heat it so as to get it warmed up. Then take it for a ride. Another thing is to check to see if it is balanced. When You ride and it vibrates put your hand towards the back of the bike and if it is vibrating you my have to do the back as wheel by heating it then take a ride. Let me know if this helps. Norman
2001himax thank you sir. I just got new tires before I started riding it again they are only about 3 Weeks old. I will still try that out though. Could be balanced wrong. Thanks again.
So here is question i hope you have an idea on. I have a 2005 c50. When making tight left turns you can hear a rotational popping in the rear end. The shop has replaced the wheel bearings and oil seal ( did not fix it). They then said its the u-joint and took it apart and then said nope not the u-joint. .. the issue is still not fixed and I’m at a loss as to what it is.. they’ve even stated the drive shaft is fine and no issue with it.. any ideas?
Did you ever find the cause of the popping noise? I have an 06 C50 and mine is making a popping noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the bike. My bike has 16k mi. And has been well maintained. I tried lubing the driveshaft at both ends, and replaced the wheel bearings-no good, noise persists.
@@kennethfoley3536 I did take it back to the shop and I had to have the mechanic stand near me when I turned to hear it as it didn’t do it when he was riding. I’m a larger person than he is. Which is why it didn’t replicate for him I assume .Long story short they took the rear wheel off and looked everything over and found nothing. They reassembled the rear end and it never did it again. The mechanic and I only assume it was a torquing down of the bolts issue. There was enough play that the bearings would bind when leaning to the left. ( this issue happened when in neutral and engine off and coasting too). Only logical explanation was the bearings/torque setting for the rear axle.
@@VanWeasel I finally had time to pull the rear wheel. The bearings are new and turned smoothly, the brake components was clean with no problems. I carefully reinstalled the wheel and torqued the axle nut to 48 ft. lbs. per the manual. I've ridden the bike twice now and the noises was gone. It must have been the torque on the axle nut. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the issue is solved. Thanks for your help.
@@kennethfoley3536 that’s awesome it worked for you as well. That was the same thing that happened to me as well. I went in for a rear tire change and after that service is when the noise started. I went in the back with him and he showed me everything and that all was in normal operation and looked great and could see no issues. The main master mechanic put it all back together and no issue ever since. That was the only thing that made sense to either one of us💁🏻♂️. Again I’m glad it solved your issue too and 🤞🏻it stays that way 🤓
"you never see a tire with no weights on it." That was in the old days. Now, tires are made so well sometimes they don't need weights. Or they could have balance beads in the tire. Just fyi.
Greetings from Berlin Germany. Thank you very much sir for your very useful information and tips. I just got a 2001 Suzuki VL800 with 14,000 ori miles on it in pristine condition. Very happy with the purchase. Your channel will help me keep it that way. Thanks again.
Hello from Western Pennsylvania to Berlin Germany. Thank you so much for your comment. The Suzuki is such a comfortable bike. Your bike being a 2001 should have carbs , not fuel injected. I wish mine had carbs. A lot better to work on. All my best to you and your family. Norman.
Thank you for info and it really helps for us looking for a used bike. Keep posting Sir..
Hi Jose, Thank you for watching. Ride safe. Norman
Certainly good advice all around. Appreciate you taking the time. My C50 just turned over 8k and I replaced all fluids and plugs and new tires. Should be good for the next few years at least.
Hi Dan, Sounds good. Norman.
Solid advice to look out for before and after buying a used bike. Came here for the driveshaft info and left with more tips than that!
Welcome Speon, Thank you for your comment. Norman.
I have a 2009 c50... love it... but where can i look to find parts... bought it used, 11k miles, garage kept , changed oil and rear gear oil change, want to lube the drive shaft next. But I want extra parts because to keep it
I look on E-Bay. I buy parts for all three of my bikes. Sometimes you have to word what you are looking for different ways to get what you are looking for. One thing about the C50, you need to get the air filter they have. The air flow has to be right and no air leaks in the system where it goes into the intake. These air filters are not cheep. Hope this helps you.
Norman.
I had a 2007 C50 4yrs ago with 18000 miles on it i was the 2nd owner final drive went out on it the bike was well maintained i had about 150.00 in a new driveshaft easy fix from what i could see the factory did not grease the shaft enough bone dry all rust there's other guys on youtube with low miles bikes that had the same problem if you have one of these bikes i would highly recommend that you tear it down and grease it all i can tell you it's not fun when it goes
Hi Matthew, Suzuki sure need to up their game on these bikes. So many are having the idle problem like I am having. Now that I have my Harley to ride I am going to try to fix the Suzuki C 50 boulevard. When the C 50 runs it is such a great bike. Norman
@@2001himax HI Norman i agree i had that bike for one month i put 1500 miles on it and it let me down twice the first week riding it i was 10 miles from home it just shut off no power whatsoever to the bike brought the bike back home the next day went to work on it turn the key on everything work the bike fired right up i never did find out what caused it i think it had something to do with that rollover switch i ended up giving the bike away to someone i knew don't get me wrong i like the bike i just think it was a lemon when the shaft went on it i was 45 miles from home 3 hours in the hot sun before i got help hope you get your problems figured out with yours
I have a 1997 yamaha Royal Star that has slack in the driveline. when it has been ridden a while when i start off or slow down there is play in the drive. in a car i would say the universal joint is bad. I am concerned i may have to have the whole rear unit replaced. The rear tire has been removed 3 times in the last 8 weeks for replacement and then repairs. Also the whole hydraulic clutch line and slave assembly has been replaced. now this issue just started. Do you know of anyway to check it without tearing it down. Thanks i found this video very informative.
Hi Benny, First get the rear wheel off the ground and turn it slowly to hear if there is any noise and it turns smoothly. If it's OK I would start by doing the easiest thing first. Drain the final drive oil out into a clean container. Look at it, pour some into a jar and see if it looks like there is any metal in the oil. If so your trouble could be in the drive in that hub. If it looks like it's OK then you would need to remove the rear wheel and see if anything is a miss in the shaft by turning it. See if your shaft will come out like mine in the Suzuki. If it does then you can see if the splines are good at the front of the shaft. If you find you need parts try looking on E-Bay for parts from bike salvage or wrecked bikes parts. I have bought parts that way and saved a ton of money. This is a start. Norman
@@2001himax Thank you . I will do it and let you know if you like. Thanks., Benny
Hello I have a 2005 Yamaha vstar 1100cc. Gearshift.
Seal leaking. Do I have to take cover off to replace
The seal. Thks in advance
Hi Mitchell, th-cam.com/video/XsnaqTudpVk/w-d-xo.html
On this video you can see what it looks like with the cover off. My nephew owned the bike and sold it so we don't have the book any longer. I think you remove the cover to replace the seal.
See if you can buy the seal from E-Bay . Once you have the seal it may help to see how it sets in place. It's not a hard job to remove the cover but a lot of time to do it. Also you may want to get a new gasket for the cover. Hope this helps. Norman.
Thank you so much, I know that it’s wasn’t Balanced,only two balance
My c50 BULEVOURD wont go over 50mph at thet speed 5 final gear is in and as i try to ho faster it dies out..
I have an 06 M50. I put 3000 miles on it parked it for 10 years. I cleaned the tank out changed the oil got it running again. I have noticed the handlebars vibrate pretty bad at 55 mph and over. Any ideas what it could be.
Hi Jeffrey, First thing that comes to mind is setting for that long is it has a flat spot on the tire. First get the front wheel off the ground then take something and put under the wheel. It can be anything like a stone that comes close to the tire but does not touch it . Now turn the wheel slowly and watch the gap between the tire and the stone. Is there one spot where the tire has a larger gap? If so take a hair dryer and heat that spot then take a ride say 10 , 20 miles and see if that helps. If there is is no spot heat the whole tire. Set the dryer aimed at it and turn the tire slowly to heat it so as to get it warmed up. Then take it for a ride. Another thing is to check to see if it is balanced. When You ride and it vibrates put your hand towards the back of the bike and if it is vibrating you my have to do the back as wheel by heating it then take a ride. Let me know if this helps. Norman
th-cam.com/video/a72NZNc9eJg/w-d-xo.html Watch this video.
2001himax thank you sir. I just got new tires before I started riding it again they are only about 3 Weeks old. I will still try that out though. Could be balanced wrong. Thanks again.
@@77JSwanger Thank you for watching.
So here is question i hope you have an idea on. I have a 2005 c50. When making tight left turns you can hear a rotational popping in the rear end. The shop has replaced the wheel bearings and oil seal ( did not fix it). They then said its the u-joint and took it apart and then said nope not the u-joint. .. the issue is still not fixed and I’m at a loss as to what it is.. they’ve even stated the drive shaft is fine and no issue with it.. any ideas?
Did you ever find the cause of the popping noise? I have an 06 C50 and mine is making a popping noise that seems to be coming from the rear of the bike. My bike has 16k mi. And has been well maintained. I tried lubing the driveshaft at both ends, and replaced the wheel bearings-no good, noise persists.
@@kennethfoley3536 I did take it back to the shop and I had to have the mechanic stand near me when I turned to hear it as it didn’t do it when he was riding. I’m a larger person than he is. Which is why it didn’t replicate for him I assume .Long story short they took the rear wheel off and looked everything over and found nothing. They reassembled the rear end and it never did it again. The mechanic and I only assume it was a torquing down of the bolts issue. There was enough play that the bearings would bind when leaning to the left. ( this issue happened when in neutral and engine off and coasting too). Only logical explanation was the bearings/torque setting for the rear axle.
@@VanWeasel Thanks for the info. I will be checking the rear wheel and bearings closely.
@@VanWeasel I finally had time to pull the rear wheel. The bearings are new and turned smoothly, the brake components was clean with no problems. I carefully reinstalled the wheel and torqued the axle nut to 48 ft. lbs. per the manual. I've ridden the bike twice now and the noises was gone. It must have been the torque on the axle nut. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the issue is solved. Thanks for your help.
@@kennethfoley3536 that’s awesome it worked for you as well. That was the same thing that happened to me as well. I went in for a rear tire change and after that service is when the noise started. I went in the back with him and he showed me everything and that all was in normal operation and looked great and could see no issues. The main master mechanic put it all back together and no issue ever since. That was the only thing that made sense to either one of us💁🏻♂️. Again I’m glad it solved your issue too and 🤞🏻it stays that way 🤓
"you never see a tire with no weights on it." That was in the old days. Now, tires are made so well sometimes they don't need weights. Or they could have balance beads in the tire. Just fyi.
So true. Norman
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