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Embedded Magnets Thanks to Flipping Normals!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2019
- YOU asked for it! Embedding magnets when 3d printing! I show you ANOTHER method for making the spaces for magnets using Meshmixer and the Makers Muse Flipping Normals video, PLUS, some gcode fun to make the Prusa stick it's tongue out :)
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Aren't we all flipped normals inside? :)
It's official I'm getting that tattooed on me. Thank u so much!!
@@jakesnack6778 don't do it! No regrats
Those who are lucky will become empty husks, devoid of a soul and emotion. No joy, but also no anger, fear or sadness. Those who are less lucky become corrupt. Husks devoid of emotion, but containing a dead, dark soul. Like a black hole in empty space.
Too dark? Oh well, I'm just making most of this up. Playing with the idea. Anyways, have a nice day.
@@PunakiviAddikti 😂 WTF, that makes no sense what so ever!
Hi Joel, thank you for using my thread, the code was updated recently to reverse the Y coordinates...
regards Joan
I LOVE how you said to make the Prusa stick it’s tongue out!
Do you know how to lock the X and Y axes during this procedure? I inserted the G-code and accidentally bumped the build plate while inserting magnets, which then caused my printer to have a Y axis layer shift after resuming. It was probably around 1mm, but it would be nice to have the steppers locked while inserting the magnets to prevent this in the future.
@@ubaldobmartinez that would be cool
Thx Joan. I've exported the g code from Prusa & modified it as you directed. I used "notepad." to make the change. How do I convert the g code back to an .stl file so I can print the model. I've looked all over & haven't be able to find the solution. Thanks in advance for your help.
@@hapo4978 notepad++ should have saved the file as a .gcode file
Try changing the file suffix to
.gcode
Regards Joan
You can also use this technique to embed nuts into your designs. Same stuff, different shape.
I was sceptical when I saw your comment. But I decided to try it. So here I am with a part full of cashews. Now what?
Good idea. It makes it easier to screw embellishments on. Decorative handles and protective caps for structures for example
@@mattiasselin4955 hahaha you made my day
@Mattias Selin You could've gone a completely different direction with that joke :)
@@licensetodrive9930 Haha! Ouch! ;)
if you are using magnets, and not using a steel (of other ferromagnetic) surface you may not want to use a steel nozzle since they could get stuck to the nozzle.
Or the pinda probe, unfortunately.
Important note here!
Tried something similar with an aluminum bed, and steel nozzel a while back.
Didn't end well...
I tried this once with a glass bed and a volcano heat block. The magnet jumped up onto the heater.
Same here. I’ve had mix success with embedding magnets directly. Next time, I will probably glue it, wait 15 minutes and then continue the print.
I just built a magnetic hook and didn’t want to chance the neodymium bar magnet jumping onto the print head. That magnet is scarily strong.
So I just left a small opening and forced it in through the side.
Cura: Extensions->Post Processing->Modify G-Code. Add a script.... I like "pause at layer or height". You can tell it where to park in that script to get it to stick its tongue out.....
Hey Ken, I'm having an issue with my "pause at height" in Cura 3.5...I can modify the G-code like you should and when printing and it gets to that height it will pause but it only pauses for 10 seconds the goes right back to printing before I am able to do anything. Any idea what maybe going on? Just asking here because I saw your comment and others may have the same issue.
Hey@@robm6369, I ran a test with Cura 3.6.3 (Lulzbot edition). The post processing script adds an M0 gcode to the file. M0 is defined here: reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M0:_Stop_or_Unconditional_stop
It is really up to your machine's firmware what it does with that command. Curious, what printer you are running?
@@kengregory6831 This is exactly what I was about to ask. I've got a Robo3D R1+ and C2, the R1 is the preferred printer. It has a RepRapDiscount LCD controller, will it ask for a button press to resume or something?
SoLongSidekick I don’t have either of those printers. My suggestion would be to give it a try and see what happens. Your mileage may vary.....
how long does it pause for ?
I really enjoyed how you walked us through your process as you found solutions. So glad to see your channel growing the way it deserves to. Thanks for the great content and camera recommendation!
Oooooh... the possibilities of embedding!! I'm just getting into 3D printing (actually still waiting for my printer to arrive) and found your video after wondering to myself, "gosh, I wonder if you can safely stop a print midway to embed bolts, magnets or RFID tags?" Thanks for posting this, I can't wait until I'm practiced enough to give this a try!!
colour change mid print
remember last year when you were making drawer pulls and i recommended embedding the nut inside the print and everyone told me that it was easier said then done? ...good times
Hahahaha GOOD TIMES INDEED!
Got on one of the Wyze cams that you recommended and it looks amazing. I cant wait to see it in in a time laps.
The M125 command (Park and pause) can also be used as an alternative to M600 for pausing at a layer, if available. The nozzle at the back of the bed is the recommended park position too.
Hi Joel! Enjoyed the video as always, great example of showing how gcode is not black magic! One of the things I would mention is when doing a print like this, make sure you aren't using a hardened steel nozzle or you're gonna have a bad time. Keep on making the great videos!
Why is that a bad thing?
Oh wait.... Bc it's a magnet lol
Joel, nice informative video. One quick comment about the Wyze cameras... They also listen for fire/smoke alarms and will alert you almost any way you want. They not only alert you via the app but also in a variety of ways via IFTTT if that's better for you. A suggestion is to have an alarm close to the area you're printing and get an extra layer of safety. I bought my cameras too... six of them and they have been 100% reliable. I don't know anyone at Wyze and don't know you either. Now back to printing...
And I suppose you could also setup a WiFi power outlet and integrate that into your IFTTT configuration, so that in the event of a fire from your printer, the power could be cut.
Awesome video Joel! The clip you showed of mine was actually captured using the logitech c920 webcam which is a great little webcam for octoprint! :)
I didn’t know the c920 works with octoprint - that’s awesome!!!
Hi, Joel. Great video. You can achieve the same result directly in Slic3rPE by temporarily editing the After Layer Change G-code on the printer settings tab. Just remember to either remove it when you're done, or put semicolons in front of it.
;AFTER_LAYER_CHANGE
;[layer_z]
{if layer_z == 2.6}
G1 X10 Y200 ; bring bed forward
M1
M105
{endif}
The only real problem can sometimes be the material type that you use. PET for example, likes to ooze out a bit more than PLA, so the area around where you resume after the pause can be sloppy looking. This might not even be an issue if that area is inside the print but can be problematic if it's near the edge of the print. Everyone's printer is different so you might have to experiment a bit but I've found a few things that help with this. Extract your extruder a bit before the move. You may even have to tinker with absolute/incremental moves on the extruder so that you can re-set the positioning of the extruder easily after the retract and extract in order for the proper amount of filament to come out after it returns to start printing again.
You can use G92 Ex.xx (x.xx = an actual value) to reset the positioning at any point though. If the previous position was E2.453 before the pause, use G92 E2.453 to reset that position after the retract/extrude when you pause. There's not enough room here to explain this properly. If only I made videos hehe....
It might sound difficult but once you have the actual code written properly it's just tinkering with the values to find out what works best on your specific printer. It's easy to just do as you've shown, go to the position where you want to pause in the gcode and paste your new code. Please keep in mind that I only mention this for specific cases where you are resuming after a pause and that resume takes you to an outside edge of the print. The extra filament that oozes out while paused, will create a void in the edge because there is a "missing" filament in your hot end. This doesn't happen all the time.
There's even differences with different hot ends. If you're using a cheap PTFE lined hotend instead of all metal, well you can retract a LOT more and eliminate this problem completely. All metal hotend sometimes doesn't allow you to retract as much to avoid oozing (depending on print material type). Hope some of this makes sense.
3D Printing Nerd You should make something that requires nuts and bolts and imbed the nut or bolts like for your new wyze cam make a mount for the printer your going to use it on I know the wyze cam pan has a threaded hole on the bottom for a tristand of some kind that would be cool if you were to imbed the bolt you could use supports to hold it off bed to be printed upside down
With MatterHackers MatterControl 2.0 you can design basic shapes or import a complex STL then make a void by subtracting one object from another. (too bar button) Then click the splice button in MatterControl AND set a Pause at a certain layer. MatterControl talks to your printer directly via a USB cable. Just make sure you set your computer so it doesn't go to sleep!.
Very nice! So glad you take everyone's input and not just shrug it off
I try to!
Yay wyze cams! I love them I have a bunch all over the house cloud storage free! Add a micro sd and then you get storage and timelapse etc. I'm adding wyze to my print space.
This GCODE works best for me on Prusa i3 MK3 (and should work on most printers, check supported GCODE):
G1 X10.000 Y210.000 E0; parking position
M17; turn on steppers (prevent moving)
M300 S2500 P1000; beep
M117 PAUSED; write message
M1; user stop
M105; return to current temp
You can also home XY before continue but with M17 it not necessary:
G28 X Y; home X and Y (just to be sure)
You can also include message directly into M1 command (instead M117), depends on your printer GCODE support:
M1 PAUSED; user stop with message
M300 is a great add.
I've been embedding steel nuts using the 'pause at layer' feature in Cura for some time. I find that coating the top of the embedded metal part with a glue stick or with an application of Elmer's glue (let it dry), makes for good adhesion for the next layer where it rests on the metal parts.
or simply a couple drops of ca glue.
I use PVA glue (Elmer's, etc.), for adhesion of the first encapsulating layer, not to hold the metal part, but because PLA doesn't like to stick to metal. CA glue is a lot more pricey than PVA, and PVA is much easier to deal with when it gets in the wrong place.
@@chuckhole yeah, after rough calculation, using CA adds ~5-20 cents per magnet depending on the brand, because for the same price you get 5ml of CA compared to 1L of PVA.
though you might end up using more PVA.
@@satibel It wouldn't matter much for just a few parts, but my embedded nut application (because I'm an embedded nut myself) is for production. I haven't tried printing PLA onto a coat of CA on steel, so I don't know how well it might work, and PVA does work, so I'll stick (pun intended) with PVA. I usually print 12 of my embedded nut parts at a time. I coat one side of each nut (the side that will be facing up in the print) with PVA and let them dry before putting them into the parts being printed. If I don't use glue the overlaying PLA doesn't stick to the nut and can clog up the threads of the nut and look messy. With rectangular magnets the overlay of PLA would probably not need a coat of glue at all, as long as the nozzle is moving in straight lines across the top of the magnet, but for embedding hex nuts, the nozzle moves in circles over the nut, so if it doesn't stick it gets dragged on the nut making it ugly.
I know most people don’t like cure but it’s so easy to this kind of thing just extensions- post process- modify gcode- and pick pause at height you have a choice of layer or height (heigh in mm) and tons of other things to do as well
Wait - lots of people love Cura! I do as well! I used Slic3r PE because I was demonstrating on the Prusa.
Yer I spose but you never hear anyone talk about or use it, I use it I’m only new to 3d printing so cure is pretty easy to use
No doubt, Joan is awesome. Learned a ton just reading her forum posts alone!
I use a Wyze cam (the small one) on my 3D printer, and love it! I also move it to the room we leave the dogs in when we leave, so we can watch them...if we don't take them with us, of course.
“Gcode superhero” love it 👍😎🇦🇺
Sitting there watching you talk analytics saying I'm already subscribed! Then I see the subscribe button!! Oops watch your stuff all the time. Sorry its on an old video. I'm catching up. Only started 3d stuff this year :)
I perfected this process a while ago and learnt how to pause the printer at various levels to insert things. Have many ideas for embedding things into a print. Great fun but a lot of work having to keep running to the printer. I just used boolean and it worked a treat. Forget simplify 3D though... It's not very flexible for this for now. This feature is built into flashforge print without having to make code or mess with external software. You can then set this up as a profile for whatever you're inserting. :)
Joel, I ordered a prusa fully built! now waiting for 8 weeks... it's worth it. Thank you as always for an AWESOME video. Just what I have been into recently. I didn't see the multicolour joelbots as part of the etsy sale. I would have bought one. Keep on keepin on! High Five!
Had to save those for give aways :)
@@3DPrintingNerd They will be Lucky folks :) For now I have your sticker from the Makerbox on my Anycubic I3 along with various others :) The prusa will get a IKEA table enclosure and a cleaner look.
Happy to see you raise money for a good cause. I’ve grown tired of the social influencer like money grab in the TH-cam community lately. Great content and keep up the good work 👍
Thanks to Joel and Joan. I've used the g-code with a little adjustment (E0 didn't worked) for my little Ender 2 and inserted the parking-script as a post-process command in IdeaMaker. Now I only have to type in the layer height in the "Pause at Height" area in IdeaMaker. This creates a M2000-Command which will be automatically replaced by the parking-script. The whole lot saved as the template "Stop Pause Parking". Done.
Great follow up, and congrats on the quick sale and donation to Seattle Children's Hospital. I am on EST and tried to make the sale, but when I got there they were already gone. Again, great job!
It’s so funny that Joel is talking about this right after I did a project that included magnets
No way! How did the project go?
I have been using 2 WYZE cams in my print cabinet for a while now, I love them, cheap, easy to set up and good quality.
I have my own design for a mount on thingiverse
Wyze cam through panel mount so you can mount it through a window or panel of a print cabinet.
hi Joe, it‘s a very good tips, you can use it to other purpose like incorporate a nut in plastic for example. It’s very usefull to assembly multiple model’s pieces.
Inspiring 3D printing video. Somehow, I have never thought about implementing things inside a 3D print.Thanks for the video!
I love my Wyze cams. Back when i lived in an apartment, I left one pointed at the front door so I could get notifications when my daughter got home from school. Now, in addition to my normal security system, I have one pointed at every entrance and one pointed at my 3D printer. Allows me to drop in at any time.
Easy peasy in Cura as well: Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code: "Pause at height". There you can choose whether to extreude or retract, where to park, at which temperature to keep the system if you are not immediately around to do the change,...
Although this video is a year old I have to say this technique is amazing i'm going to use it to print figures with base plates that will stand up even in weird unstable poses while being able to freely move them without a peg or something throwing off the aesthetic. So excited to use this
Thanks for watching my older video!
I can't stop staring at that nasty outlet under your filament. lol. Looking forward to meeting you and Nero 3D at RMRRF.
Oh dude fixed that a LONG time ago 😉
Great info on flip normals and the g-code mods to get the Prusa to "stick its tongue out" 👅
I just realized you could embed secret notes in things. A message in a bottle, a map in a treasure chest, even a goal in a dharma or wish in a genie style lamp.
Mr. Joel, if you read this please try putting your goal for the year in a dharma or a map in a chest for your kids to break open.
Beware of steel elements of the extruder - they often pull the magnet out :P
I love that these use G-code. Been programming G-code on CBC machines since early 90’s.
Oh no, work uses those cameras. I'm on my weekend break with reminders of work!
Hey, :) Thx.
I've (I had) been making these very similar things. Using combinations of Fusion 360, Sculptris, SculptGL, Meshmixer, and sliced with Cura, which has Pause at Height/Pause at Layer functionalities.
Anyways, just saying, from 1 of the 34%'ers.
Just wanted to say a quick THANK YOU for your great content. Your videos are incredibly helpful for me (a 3dPrinting Noob!)
I've used this technique to embed nfc tags into stuff. Also to insert coins into the bottoms of very light parts to add some weight. Cool video! Joel you should do a video for prusa printers about starting gcode that starts at z=something other than zero. Like if you run a gcode that builds up to z=1.5, then completes. Then you change color and run a g-code that STARTS at 1.6 and ends at 3 for a finished part. I've done it with my ender and it works great but the Prusa has a nagging habbit of mesh bed leveling at the start of each g-code, a move that would most likely kick off a half completed part. If there is a way to override that It would be news to me and probably many other prusa owners.
What an attractive option!
Man I remember going in and out of Seattle children's hospital when I was young.
Joel! Get the new slic3r alpha, it can do the pause at layer or filament change stuff, and it makes it so much easier to do custom supports! All the bugs I've encountered have been fixed and it's flawless now.
How about a link the STL for the model used in this video? I would simply pause the print on my Ender 3 Pro m put in the magnets and resume. No gcode mods required. Another great video.👍
I have a couple of the Wyze cams. They are AWESOME! - Wyze is also working on an updated firmware for these so that there will be an RTSP stream url exposed on the local network so you can pull up the video feed in other apps outside of the Wyze app. VERY GOOD PRICE on these on Amazon and Wyze website too!
I’m new to the whole 3d printing game but was wondering why can’t you just make a hole in fusion 360 or similar and then pause the print when it gets to the hole and then insert magnet?
if you use the prusa slicer there is an option where you can say you want to switch the filament on a certain layer hight. It will stop by itself and wait til you switched it (you dont have to or just fake it=) and in this time you can insert the stuff you want. Hit the + on the bar on which you van see thru the layers to get to it.
nice thing about embedding the magnets is you don't get complaints about how you handle the glue ;)
Your channels are addictive
Steel nozzle + z hop = lots of fun
Great Tutorial.
I am surprised you were not a mechanical engineer
Did you seriously make yourself a high five light switch plate? 😂 That's fantastic! ✋
Awesome sauce, space gun ammo magazines are gonna be so much nicer now. Love the channel, cant wait to see what you print up next.
Well that prusa control tip is great. I can actually do some cool things like magnets now. Thanks
And in Tinkercad you could extend the printbed size 2 times your bed's size so you can make a copy of an object, slice 3mm off the bottom of the first object (1mm for the thickness and 2mm for the magnet height), then slice everything above 3mm off the next object. Create your magnet shapes as a hole and embed them so they are flush with the top of the object's bottom piece. Move the top piece (preferably with the arrow keys and set snap grid to 0.1mm) aligned over the bottom piece. Reset the bed to normal size, download the stl and then figure out in your slicer how to do the pause thingy. In Tinkercad the flipped normal are called holes, makes way more sense. Like Alfred E. Neuman always said, why be normal?
I bought the wyze cam and it's great. Anyone who hasn't should go check out their promo video it's hilarious. There's a option in the settings to create a time lapse as well.
You're giving me great ideas. Thanks Joel, you're an inspiration!
copy paste *joel
@@Kenopy fixed
I was looking at the Wyze Cams at my local MicroCenter. Nice to know they work well. (Time to buy)
Nice work!!! Keep up the great content!
Embed Angus 🇦🇺 us Aussies are all flipped 🙃
SAVAGE
😂
You got wyze cameras they are freaking awesome! I use the pan to watch my prints I have 6 of them!
Do you control them manually or is there a plugin to control them via octoprint?
tonpa888 I control them thru the free wyze app
@@trialnterror Ok, thanks for the reply!
We were using 2 of them as baby monitors and I realized we don't need two angles int eh same room so I stole one for my printer. Works well
@@hoguemr That's a nice way of getting one!
I've been playing with creating objects with voids recently, not to insert magnets, but voids made of text so it's a completely flat solid object from the outside and the only way to read it is to hold it up to the light.
I wanted to make small 'tags' with my TH-cam url inside to hand out to people to show my quadcopter flying, but ran into detail problems, I think I need an 0.2mm nozzle for this job.
The channel name escapes me at the moment, but there was a video on 3D printing a housing for the smaller camera you showed 😊 Maybe a cool project to look at some time, although your use of the camera is different than the intended purpose of the housing in the video, but still.. 😊 Edit: it was the Make Anything channel 😎 as soon as I hit enter it came to me 😅
That was Devin from Make Anything!
Useful for embedding nuts or bolts.
Those Wyze Cams though 👀👀
Another great informative video! Will be sure to use this technique on the future, wheter that's to embed electrical components or magnets I'm sure I will!
I use 3d bulder for stuff like this. Really easy and quick.
What an awesomely helpful video. Thanks heaps!
Just a tip open tinkered and do any size you want then raise the object and cut away🤟
Oh, that's a nice amount of money :) New fridge magnets look cool!
For people using Slic3r without Prusa, you can use layer change custom gcode(in printer custom gcode) , add a comment to insert layer numbers. In the prints like this you can just add your pause and cool down gcode (that you will have in printer setup anyway). Add requisite delay and add basic heater and purge gcodes.
Thanks for always having useful videos! I bought you some coffee! Take care..
Does anyone else see that hand 3d printing itself at 2:16 and the top of Joel’s right shoulder. That looks like a really cool project.
that was a great, and highly informative video thanks Joel
I love how Joel always looks like he puffs more than me.
Hey Joel, weirdly enough Sketchup actually has one of the best extensions for reworking STL files. If you know how to use the work arounds of the extension then you can get super clean import geometry, and since sketchup is kind of king for putting down simple geometry fast, it takes like seconds to do this sort of thing. Also just handy in general for reworking STL files.
If you're interested, basically in the STL importer you want to import in METERS (this is the most important part) then check both box's ("combine colinear faces" and "smooth surfaces") Your object will be imported 1000x larger than it's suppose to be but sketchup handles larger objects way better than small, and can easily be scaled later. Sometimes you may need to adjust the smoothing bar too.
Nice walkthrough
Thanks for sharing😀👍
trick would be to print two so while print head is away working u can play with other part
this is how i fill self righting wobbly eggs with weight so it prints around it
Great idea!
I know it's only a small amount of thickness between the magnet and the outer surface of the Joel bot I wonder how deep you could place the magnets & still get good hold when using to hold notes to the refrigerator just a thought. How about just a cube with a strong cube shaped magnet in it for a desk toy kind of thing maybe eight or ten in a set on a metal base OH the fun with magnets.
Ooh! This sounds cool and like something I should look into.
You can do this in Sketchup by creating an inside out cube or rectangular prism and placing it inside the other object. Just remember to reverse the faces.
I love your videos!
PSA - Slic3r now allows you to insert M601 (Pause) instead of M600 (color change) using the graphical interaface. Just find the layer where you want it to stop and click away on the layer slider similar to what's in this video. If you click correctly, it'll have a little menu asking you if you want color change or pause.
The exact behavior of the "pause" is up to the printer. The Prusa lifts the print head and moves it a bit out of the way.
Hi Joe... I tried same things Sametime ago but on my anycubic kossel plus did not work.... Because magnet was attracted by nozzle and or by heatblock and the block printer.
I think you work because you have metallic bed and magnet was pretty near to bed ... So stay careful and check before if you use on other printers
Would love to see a video on how to set those cams up and make the timelapse. Also with how the TL looks with them
I wonder if there's some way to end up with both sides of the magnet (or whatever it is) glued to the plastic above and below. Not just jiggling around in a void, but structurally integrated somehow. Maybe some kind of film that melts when the plastic noodle hits it, and ends up sticking to both the magnet and the plastic noodle. Hm.
A few years ago I used this technique to "wrap" a gift card to a cousin who likes to use duct-tape to wrap the ones he gives us. It was pretty effective.
Hi Joel wyze cam + smart plug allows me to keep an eye on my printer while it prints and if I'm out I can just say ok Google turn off the printer and watch the printer turn off. I had a print to bad and start to stick everywhere but couldn't get back home till an hour later. Smart plug is great to have along with the wyze cam.
Also Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.42 (currently alpha) has support for color changes built right into the gcode preview.
Coincidentally, Wyze cams have embedded magnets in their bases. :)
Also, I use the Multi Colors plugin to Octoprint to insert the pause code.
The best solution is to have that, and also have the nozzle reprime (a sacrificial line along the back is good)
This was not 15 seconds long
Yeah, I think TH-cam is drunk
3D Printing Nerd Agreed.
Update your PrusaSlicer! New version has Color change option in the software itself!
Sweet!!!
By the way, I used magnets earlier, neodymium ones to be particular, they printed in a way that the two printed parts shld stick well together, the weight of moving liquid on a part weighing just 4gm pla print 😆 attached magnets on both the parts. Client later gave bulk order of the same product. Client happy, we wealthy 😉😎🤟🏽
Also, I observed you picked oozing filament by fingers! SAFETY FIRST MY FRIEND! 😉
Today I just took the leap of faith and made my largest print yet. Only cost a dollar but I'm used to super small prints.
$500 it's like 2 cotton swabs in US hospital, way to go!