I did find your video very insightful and helpful. I do think for the beginner, like myself, it would have been nice to have pictures of actual models you recommend and the features they will give you for the price we will pay.
Straight to the point, I like it. I'm running a Grizzly G0602, off shore, but i got it at $1100 a couple years ago. I gotta say your right about work size vs. price as well as hhs tooling. I have nice insert tooling and I still go to hhs most of the time. Great info video, and I never comment or like shit lol.
Thank you for this. I am about to purchase a Taig Micro II with the power-feed and the 5C headstock. I plan on getting the 4-jaw independent chuck and the milling attachment a few months later. Wish me luck!
Another good video dude. Well done. I'v recently joined the TAIG club and have also just made the decision that carbide tooling isn't the way to go for these machines!
If you're getting a tabletop machine, I would recommend a long bed Sherline. I am so glad I got the long bed! It's very easy t consume the bed length. A job a few inches long and a need to drill a hole through it will eat up most of the bed! For work holding I can only recommend the four jaw. A three jaw in this size is only good to the smallest jobs. I would have both, and do, but for a budget I'd get the four jaw first.
I picked up a Taig Micro II 4500 with a 4 jaw and two headstocks for $90. It has this weird tensioner pulley on it that’s out of alignment with the belt (I’m not really sure why it’s even there to be honest). I have no idea where to start with assessing and dialing it in. Can you recommend reading and videos for a complete novice on first time setup/testing? Thanks!
Tree Man - Pens and yo-yos can be made on a wood lathe. Keychains are best just purchased. Pistol barrels are a whole different ballgame. If you are talking about threading and fitting them, that can be learned. If you are planning on drilling and rifling them, then that is a VERY ADVANCED project.
Even pro level 3 jaw chucks are not perfect with hard jaws. To get parts to consistently run true you have to cut soft jaws using an anti-backlash ring. Good video.
Maybe better expalained: a 3-jaw chuck only gives 2 features which are have the jaws tight and having them loose and then wherever your stock is tightened in the chuck, that's where the stock stays according to wherever the 3 jaws positioned the stock toward center. However a 4-jaw chuck will allow you the precise adjustment to position your stock in the chuck in order to 'true' it up whereby using a dial indicator on the stock while it's in the chuck and rotating the stock while adjusting each of the 4 jaws separately to find center. The dial indicator will tell you how many thousands of run-out you have
May I ask a question about Tarig micro lathe ii? I plan to do some wood turning on metal lathe due to some woods are very hard to cut with woodturning lathe. The Taig micro lathe with riser block can have 6.5” swing. Is that save to mount a 6” diameter fixture( sphere jig) on the Taig micro lathe? Thanks.
What do you think about some of the grizzly machines? From what I understand they're branded offshore machines, but they have decent quality, an actual store in the US. They seem to be more like a step above harbor freight (they offer some models that are comparable/same as HF). Ones that i'm looking at are in the 1000-1500 range. The G0602 has my eye right now, a 10x22 My question is; what features do you prioritize? HP? size? Taper? DRO? spindle bore? threading options?
Ooo, thats a loaded question (one I have spent months reading into). Yes I like the Grizzly machines, I have G0704 mill which is awesome. Most of the 10x22 lathes are fairly decent with VERY similar builds for that price range. Lots of people like the G0602, all depends on what you want to do. Ideally a machine with a proper quick change gearbox (norton style) and a D 1-4 spindle mount would be my main choice...but that puts you in the $5k range and is not really considered a benchtop machine anymore. If you can get a 10x22 sized machine with separate thread cutting and feed screws (so you are not wearing out your threading screws in normal day to day use) that would be ideal (sadly not a feature on the G0602)...also one of the reasons I do not have a 10x22 sized machine :). I could rant for hours on features but it all depends on the work you plan on doing. With that said, people do amazing work with good and bad 10x22 machines...all depends on what you are after and how much tweaking/modifying you are wanting to get into. Hope that helps more then it confuses :-).
IMO it has to do with what your Machining projects will be. I wanted a Lathe & Mill for 1 reason. Machining Custom Aftermarket parts for 1:24 scale auto models. So I’m looking at machining projects that are a little bigger than watch part’s! My choice was simple Sherline….☯️
I’m looking for a lathe to make rings on and have about $1000 budget, it needs to be good quality and easy to keep running and any recommendations would be much appreciated
I’m curious what you think about older machines. Maybe a bench top Logan, or some such, what do you see being the most pertinent trade offs for older machines at a cheaper price point?
I would say machine condition and parts availability. If you can find a name brand with a good amount of tooling at a reasonable price, then I'd go for it. You can find parts and accessories for Logan, South Bend, Atlas easily, though I think some of the stuff on evil bay must be gold plated for the prices sometimes asked. You would have better luck on Craigs List finding something local to you that you could physically look at under power. What some people call "good condition" is laughable.. if it looks like a rusty pile of iron, run away! There will be a nice, well cared for machine for sale in a few weeks. Curt does make a good point about what you start out with.. get the best you can afford. It is important to get a lathe that has a distance between centers at least twice the swing, e.g. 7x14, 10x20, 12x24. By the time you mount a chuck on the spindle and a drill chuck in the tail stock, you actual work area will start to be cramped if the lathe bed is any shorter than that.
Well I am a Tool mechanic which means I work with mills and lathes on a day to day basis and we only have 3 jaw chucks with which we work to tollerances of sometimes just 0.01mm and it is fine
Thanks for the video. Do you have suggestions for starting my own workshop? For instance, what machines/tools are a necessity other than the lathe? Thanks bud.
That all depends on what you want to do. My advice is to try and build whatever it is you want (with whatever you currently have)...equipment / tools only help achieve those goals by making processes easier or quicker :). Best of luck!
@@CurtVanFilipowski thanks. I'm interested in making sequential movement puzzles. I dont have a means to make straight cuts though. So would you suggest a band saw or something else? Thanks for the quick response.
Ahhh, a man after my own heart (I LOVE puzzles). Band saws are great, they are still a "rough" cutting tool...however you can easily process cuts from a saw with simple hand tools to get excellent finishes. With that said there is a reason the apprentice classes (in both metal and wood working) arm you with nothing other then hand tools to make precision parts. Many a machinist had to make precision setup blocks (in steel) with a hacksaw and file...outdated, yes but it still teaches you the fundamentals of working to precision measurements. I'm sorry to keep skirting around recommending tools...but they aren't your barrier to entry, they only make the hand processes easier or faster.
@@CurtVanFilipowski no need to apologize. I understand completely. I have so many ideas for puzzle yet lack th workshop and skill to make them. Hah. Maybe it's time. Thanks again. Keep up the videos. You do a good job.
Looking to work aluminum at a max length of 14" and a max OD of 1.5". It's a Lightsaber build for my little brother. He's all about Star Wars. Suggestions on a lathe to work those specs.....oh yeah...I'm a Noob as well.
I bought the Taig 1017er and unfortunately didn't know how to read the specs on how big the 4 jaw chuck diameter would open. I need 1.625" and it only opens 1/2". Live and learn. ....they have a 10% restocking fee and I have to pay for shipping. Hope no one else makes the same mistake.
Great video! First thing I learned: I dont have the money to get into metal working, haha! Oh well, now I'll understand what other people are working with a bit better when I watch their videos.
Thanks, happy to have helped! You can start metal working WAY cheaper than this if its your passion. A ton of things can be made with a hacksaw and file (probably set you back $20 total)...sure its not a lathe but many budding machinists were forced to make 1-2-3 blocks with these 2 tools.
Hehe, this is TH-cam...you got to grow thick skin FAST as everyone is a critic. The 70% will tell you to fornicate yourself in some manner, 29% watch silently and the wonderful 1% are people like you. Thanks for the vote of encouragement! Also 9000 points for using the word reckon in a sentence, its a gem of a word :).
Hey could you please give me some advice on where to get the cheapest lathe that I could use to make wooden bowls? I'd prefer to be able to make medium sized bowls, but I'd settle with smaller range if it saves me money, I don't have much to work with :/
There are many mini lathes and mini mills coming from China, but it is best to study and learn BEFORE buying. I have found that Micro Mark and Little Machine Shop sell a 7x16 lathe that uses a brushless DC motor that is very quiet and does not require the additional noisy 2 speed gearbox. The Micro Mark comes broken down in two boxes, so you can get it up on your bench without having to use a crane. The LMS version also comes with a fixed (non tilting) column. The current price at MM for this lathe (and the mill that uses the same motor) is $1,100. When I bought mine they were $750. The mini lathe will do most things a gunsmith would want to do, except work on a bull (large diameter) barrel. Among the important things necessary to get started are a quick change tool post and an outboard spider. But by all means, READ AND STUDY BEFORE BUYING. A good place to start is at www.mini-lathe.com/ . There is a lot of info there, and you don't have to buy a book. One small tip to get you started: The 3" chuck that comes with the lathe does not have a large enough hole. If you get a 4" or a 5" chuck then it will pass through anything that will go through the spindle.
My brother just bought his first metal lathe. It's an antique mini lathe and he is planning to restore it. It's a 1949 6" x 12" Craftsman Model 80 - usually catalogued as the 109-21270. It's his 30th birthday coming up and I want to get him some tools or accessories for his lathe. Can you help recommend something? I know nothing about lathes
Hmmm, well the 2 tools that I use pretty much daily and could not live without when working with a lathe would be a Noga magnetic base and a dial indicator, especially useful if he is going to spend a bunch of time dialing in tolerances and adjusting for level on this old machine. The Noga bases with the fully flexible arms are ideal but even the cheaper non-branded versions are good. Start off with an inexpensive dial indicator, the nicer ones get expensive quick and are probably not needed unless he gets that machine REALLY dialed in. If he doesn't have a set of calipers they make a great gift and range in cost from $30 to $300...once again cheap ones will probably suffice. Thanks for the message and hope that helps out some!
Yep, I have one of their mills. Quality is actually half decent in their $1500 and up priced machines (same castings as the grizzly machines). Their sub $1000 offerings are workable just require a bit more adjustment and fixing to get functioning well...IMO anyways :-).
I haven't used a taig or sherline mill/lathe but I've had great luck so far with used machines i have a 10x36 clausing lathe that i got out of a barn for 900$ i cleaned it up it still had flaking on the underside of the carriage. I also have a hardinge mill that I paid to much for 1400$ with a baldor mint II cnc servo but I'm selling it for what I have into it and getting a Bridgeport style machine. The problem with these is they are old and heavy and take up more space than your desk but I also do bigger work than you so I can't get away with a sweet little machine like yours.
I would kill to find an old clausing for that kind of price around here! Sadly vintage machines around here are either totally clapped out or require 14 feet of concrete for support and 3 phase power :) !
You've got a pretty sweet setup though and my clausing is a 1 hp single phase they are out there but the same 4900 models do come in 3 phase from the factory as well
I agree wholeheartedly with your assessment of the marketplace. Also, to avoid being victimized, the inexperienced buyer must not buy into the notion that the difference between similar looking machines is only their paint and price.
I'd probably go with something a little larger to get all the turning done in 1 setup...ideally something in the 10x22 range or larger would probably be ideal. With that said I'm confident I could build a hilt with this sized machine as well, would just have to get a little crafty with setups and assembly.
My dad uses one of the import lathes. It was an absolute bear to get it cutting true, and even after all the shimming and lapping of the rails, it still has a tiny amount of run out. It was given to him and he is retired, so has the time to tune his lathe. If you don’t have that time, and just want to get right to turning, buy quality. It’s more expensive up front, but far less frustrating.
Ahh, this video probably used cards which youtube has now removed. Just look up "mrpete222" , he has a boat load of great machining videos. Also "this old tony" made a great video on HSS cutter grinding. That should give you a good start :).
Thats 100% personal preference, I'm a taig fan but I wouldn't say no to a sherline either. I feel taig has a little better value for the price but both are great mini sized machines!
If money is no object buy the most mass you possibly can in a full on toolroom sized lathe...the Hardinge HLV is a machine I'd love to have in my shop. Slightly smaller the Schaublin lathes are also nice...so many choices out there! All depends on your size / weight allowance and what you want to make.
Hey! First timer watching your channel. Got sent over from TOT. OK...buying your first lathe,,,WTF?!? Synth tee? Step back...step back...turn around slowly...grip wallet closed with both hands...run for your friggin' life- later dude!
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I bought a 12 x 36 atlas lathe 650 dollars with 3 and 4 jaw Chuck,,aloris tool post and a lot of tooling, by vintage and leave Chinese lathes alone,,, just got original milling attachment for atlas,,, and just picked up 2 - 6 inch atlas lathes 400 dollars for both,,, so I now have 1200 dollars invested in 3 nice well built lathes that have proved the test of time.
Sad think about atlas lathes is the gears are not steel. They are pot metal or pewter. Junk metal. My advise is to sell it and look for a Sheldon or Southbend. Much better lathes. Atlas is a poor man’s junk lathe.
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq I have 5 atlas lathes,,,2 - 12 inch. And 3 6- inch and only 2 gears out of the 5 show any wear,,,,l can slide micrometer and caliper down all ways and there all perfect and needle on dail indicator hardly moved on all there spindles,,,l buy and restore vintage tools, the flat ways on atlas lathes last forever,,, had to discard many southbend and Logan lathes because once v ways wear there junk,, heard many talk bad of the zmak cast gears,,,zinc,magnesium, aluminum and copper are kopter,,German for copper,,, all the gears in gearbox are steel,,,best thing about atlas is because of the gears they was bought as hobbyist lathe and never was in factories are classrooms and survived 60 years,,,you will be hard pressed to find a 60 year old southbend are Logan in good condition, l can turn anything they can with atlas just a little slower,,,I put a nylon gear as drive gear to save in case of crash,,,3 years ago and it's still in good shape,,,,l have 1500 dollars invested in all 5...And all look and work like new.. my buddy has a 40 year old heavy 10 southbend and comes over to use my atlas for very fine work because of his vway wear. Hell even many new lathes have nylon gears now,, 60 years my friend I think they have proven the test of time and deserve respect.
@@georgespangler1517 well if you restore lathes you certainly know more about them than I do. I currently have a 618 atlas and it was a good lathe to start on. I build kinetic wind sculptures and all I need to do is turn and bore round nylon plastic actually cutting board materials to go inside stainless bearing housing for my kinetics. I need to bore each for bearings and bore all the way through for axle or shaft clearance. The 2 bores that I make are 7/8” and 1-1/8”. This 618 is a little small for that. I looked at a 1938 Sheldon lathe yesterday locally. Outside of needing oil the ways looked good. Had some slack in the cross slide. The compound was good and stiff. It will probably need a belt at some point. Couldn’t run it because it was in a boxcar storage with no power. I turned the lathe Chuck and it didn’t seem to have slack in the head gear and turned freely. $375.00 for it and a lot of carbide inserts and tool holders. He said that he has more tooling and a quick change tool post for it plus and extra 1 hp motor. He was doing hobby type work but doesn’t have a workshop anymore since he moved. It’s on an original cast iron stand. Jacobs ball bearing Chuck on the tail stock. Being a 1938 it was not new looking but it doesn’t need restoring either. Outside of cleaning it up and oiling it should be ready to go. What is your thoughts on it?
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq l have 2 618s,,,have one that's never been used John I displayed it,,, you would have to spend 1000 to 1500 dollars to find a new lathe as good as your 618..
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq 375 dollars jump on it,,,2 weeks ago I drove 100 miles to pick up a 12 inch atlas and 618,,but big surprises was in the rusted bucket with them a milling attachment steady rest and follower and nice 4 jaw Chuck to go with the 3 inch all for the 12 inch and has exact same model number as my 12 I have,, 500 dollars for everything,, Sheldon is a good lathe,,, but if your in the pre 50s it won't have timken bearings Will be brass bushings,,there ok as long as there kept oiled, check the ways up close to Chuck and run it up and down them you will feel the wear if it gets loose near Chuck and tight to tail stock, you know what to look for ,just because it's a well built machine dosent mean it was well taken care of,,goodluck
I know, Taig has a really strange site now...hard to find things. Closest package to mine would be: taigtools.com/product/micro-lathe-ii-l1017-5c/ You would need to add the tailstock to that package (under accessories) and a motor.
Well, I'd counsel my kids with getting a Harbor Freight kind because they are the cheapest. After they mess around with it, get a hands on basic feel and understanding of how to use one and then find out they REALLY want a lathe and truely need one then I'd recommend getting one from Germany for the sake of guaranteed excellent craftsmanship in it's making with forever lasting quality. The point is that many folks will buy something in the highest quality category and end up not using it because they REALLY didn't need it, OR they find out the goddamned thing is only as good as the the amount of required skill within the user. I mean these are folks that haven't attended a trade school or previously been exposed to any degree of training. So it just sits around being forgotten about, always. AAAALLLLL that money, hundreds or thousands of bucks gone out the window! For nothing. Trust me people, I'll seen this soo many times! I face palm slap my head and shake it saying "oh my GOSH, what a waste!" Btw the one from HF may be precise for ones needs and serve as a secondary or backup one. But it won't keep up in the long haul, simply because they are ultimately not of the professional grade, esp for part of running a machining business (which I know that all this was needlessly said for those reading who are ace machine operators) Mm mm. It's true for the most part in this world you DO get what you pay for. And My kids can use HF to tide them over as they are saving up the cash to get the much better one. And I know that they will use and take good good care of it because of working hard to get it, while they had practiced on the HF one to get skilled, proficient that is.
@@CurtVanFilipowski I suppose Californian born and raised me should buy American. Super shame on me, huh? Well when it comes to metal lathes and milling machines, I'm prejudice in favor of German made ones. They are to me the most trustworthy in robust make and precise performance, because the Germans seem to have an obsession with exactitude and perfection in moving parts and mechanisms to operate up to supreme clockwork standard. Like for instance have you seen that 1961 flick, The Guns of Navarone, and have you noticed the complex operation mechanisms of the twin giant guns in that mountain that had to be knocked out by the Ally commando unit? Noticed how quiet and smooooooth they functioned in moving the heavy parts of them 16" ship-smashing two-headed monsters - the opening of the breech doors, the loading of them, and positioning? I was like, "Good GODDAMN!!! THAT is some precision, in how they were engineered and made to perform like that!". The Germans just got stuff like that down to an epically scary science! When it comes to cutting, forming, and shaping equipment, extremely important, like a lathe and milling machine that will cost a King's ransom, you want to get the best there is, or something next to it.
@@johnsmith-zs9jq That all makes sense to me, and thank you very, very much for the reply. I suppose it comes down to who you are and what's your living / space situation, and what one wants the mill or lathe for to begin with. As a contractor I typically buy the most expensive best built portable tools available. I'm often asked why I don't own a massive this tool or that tool. The answer is always that I can't lift it on the job site. But the answer is never cost. Nonetheless, from your answer I think I can understand that the needs are different four different people, and the weights and skills required in space required are on a different level then what I'm accustomed to. So in any event I can still relate to your answer, and am grateful for the time you took to write it out.
Strange! Someone must have flagged it as offensive or something? I don't even have the option to bring it back. Was a great reply as well, sadly this one was removed for a reason unknown to me!
That's awesome! Unfortunately I think it takes a bit of knowledge on machine tools to ensure you are buying a useful bit of machinery...and not a clapped out block of iron. With a little reading the used market is a great place to find some real gems!
I love to tinker but those import machines and the high quality video series by TH-cam content creators seem like it's meant for people with existing experience with lathes and general metal working. Whenever one of those content creators mention a issue that popped up and how they fixed it is an automatic dead end for me. Each one of those walls seems like it will take a ton of time for me to troubleshoot.
It’s a shame TH-camrs have to spend so much time in their videos preempting complaints from future viewers. I wouldn’t have the grace or patience to deal with it but then again maybe that’s why I’m not a successful TH-camr... just my 2¢...
so far i can't seem to find any lathes with 4 jaw chucks. if i search "lathe" i only see lathes with 3 jaw chucks. if i search "lathe with 4 jaw chuck" i only see 4 jaw chucks without the lathe XD
i'll be honest though , im more interested in machining wood for testing ideas in a pinch then i am machining metal but it would be nice to be able to do both i suppose.
Its pretty common to purchase a lathe with a 3 jaw and buy an additional chuck should you want different styles...even with my Taig all my chucks were purchased separately.
@@CurtVanFilipowski i just find it a curious that pretty much nobody is selling lathes with 4 jaw chucks already installed. and kind of just looking for a machine for making experiment parts like part holders and what not. but i think i'll also be making tool handles with it as well. i'm stuck in indecision right now as to whether i should get a lathe or a mill XD slightly leaning towards lathe though as i can already think of several things i could put one to use for . and sure i guess i could build these things by hand but knowing my luck i'll make them off center. i definitely know though that i am not getting a 3d printer as that could get expensive over time with the filaments. with lathes and mills i can use pretty much any raw material i already have laying around anyway.
I bought an old Schaublin for 350.- . The quality is great. If you would get a brand new lathe with equal quality you had to pay a lot more. Our lathes at work are built in the 60s and still are in perfect shape.
@@sandrabostic9453 Yes, a poor man milling machine can go a long way, just hammer, chisel and perhaps a file. Such as this one: th-cam.com/video/24hHwV6SejI/w-d-xo.html One fine summer, I have tried to straighten a piece of S50C by a shitty drill press. That was kind of educational.
Title should be "Buying Your First MINI-Lathe" as these Sherlines and Taigs are hobby lathes only, and there are HUGE differences between these mini-lathes and the 10" x 22" and up metal lathes from manufacturers such as Grizzly etc. In my opinion get a 10 x 22 and do so much more than those little hobby lathes could even think about!! And for very small parts you can fit a drill chuck into the spindle or into the 3 jaw and work it that way.
all these machines. there is still no linear guides.some not have even ball skrew unless cnc ready,but if its cnc ready there is dovetail gib thing LOL wtf where is linear guides they are so easy
I lost confidence when you said , I learn of youtube for cutting tools..WTF didn't you go to University to lean machining . Anyway their are hundreds of lathes and mills to suit all price range that can produce 0.05 quality finish, even 600 bucks one from Harbour freight, im in the Uk and have a £500 @ a 7x14 clearance and make engines so i would say spend time researching the right machine for the job you need to do. if you don't get on with it then sell it, 99% of the time you will get nearly the same price for it so you don't loose much at all. i find people selling their used stuff off for about the same price as new.
The lathes he mentioned probably are not made here in the United States if the truth was known. Assembled here at best. I need a drink after watching this guy.
I somewhat agree...unless you enjoy it, for some metalworking is just fun and doesn't need to provide payback in any other method than just the enjoyment of it.
First of all a cheap machine is a cheap machine, made down to a price because fools want high quality for a low price and expect to get it already running and machining parts right out of the box....poor fools. This scenario will deter many wannabe machinists with dreams of making parts that have bright shiny finishes and made to micron tolerances all because the seller glossed over the fact that you only get what you pay for......scale down your expectations, learn to overcome the problems and be prepared to "adjust" the various problems as they become apparent.......nothing is perfect, and if you want perfection remember you are not perfect either......the nut that holds the wheel is the most dangerous part etc......being a skilled machinist I tend to overlook the confusion that noobs have when confronted by moving machinery, big or small. I disagree with the statement about a 3 jaw chuck not running true.......you've probably never heard of a slack chuck register scenario that allows even a badly worn chuck to run dead true at any time.......most work in a 3 jaw is by gripping a piece of raw material and turning it to size etc.........second op work is a different matter.........a 4 jaw chuck can get you running true but it's not ideal for a start out or noob at first. As an observation to this problem of getting quality for pennies..........the Chinese sellers could double their turnover by supplying the machines in parts roughly machined and for the buyer to then go the whole hog and make it a thoroughbred.....buying cheap means you are 3/4 the way to a good machine anyway by buying one that needs to be completely overhauled before you start.
Was the most polite way to refer to sub-par manufacturing. I don't think anyone would make the assumption I was grouping German / Japanese made equipment into the mix...well, maybe 1 person ;).
THANKS!! NI'M LOOKING FO GOO "QUALITY, ACCURACY, AND VERSATILITY, "MANUAL" LATHE, OR MILL BUT, I'M NOT INTERESTED IN "CNC" MASS PRODUCTION, COMPUTERIZED CRAP!... I HATE COMPUTERS!!... (PAIN IN THE AS S...
I did find your video very insightful and helpful. I do think for the beginner, like myself, it would have been nice to have pictures of actual models you recommend and the features they will give you for the price we will pay.
Agree, I was waiting for recommendation
I’ve never heard of Taig. Thanks for the great info. It’s a pretty cool little lathe.
Straight to the point, I like it. I'm running a Grizzly G0602, off shore, but i got it at $1100 a couple years ago. I gotta say your right about work size vs. price as well as hhs tooling. I have nice insert tooling and I still go to hhs most of the time. Great info video, and I never comment or like shit lol.
Thanks for this video. Very helpful in making a choice of lathes. I like the idea of having the milling attachment as a good starter option.
Looks like thanos with makeup
@@veerusingh2346 i was just gonna say that like i was gonna say (is your profile picture white thanos)
Where can you get the milling attachment for lathe?
@@veerusingh2346 💀💀💀💀💀💀💀💀
Great video for for the raw beginner such as me, thanks for the info. Very much appreciated.
Thank you for this. I am about to purchase a Taig Micro II with the power-feed and the 5C headstock. I plan on getting the 4-jaw independent chuck and the milling attachment a few months later. Wish me luck!
Another good video dude. Well done. I'v recently joined the TAIG club and have also just made the decision that carbide tooling isn't the way to go for these machines!
If you're getting a tabletop machine, I would recommend a long bed Sherline. I am so glad I got the long bed! It's very easy t consume the bed length. A job a few inches long and a need to drill a hole through it will eat up most of the bed! For work holding I can only recommend the four jaw. A three jaw in this size is only good to the smallest jobs. I would have both, and do, but for a budget I'd get the four jaw first.
Thanks for the advice Ashton Kutcher 💪
Useful vid, thanks. 'Toying with getting metal lathe.
My friend tell me please, what is the name of your lathe? Where can I buy it?
I picked up a Taig Micro II 4500 with a 4 jaw and two headstocks for $90. It has this weird tensioner pulley on it that’s out of alignment with the belt (I’m not really sure why it’s even there to be honest). I have no idea where to start with assessing and dialing it in. Can you recommend reading and videos for a complete novice on first time setup/testing? Thanks!
I love Taig, I think they should work on their website, adding photos of all parts, but its a great system.
Agreed, the site is still in the dark ages when it comes to online sales!
Good video and cool t-shirt.
pens, yoyos, keychains, pistol barrels, dodads...
all jokes a side awesome video :)
Tree Man - Pens and yo-yos can be made on a wood lathe. Keychains are best just purchased.
Pistol barrels are a whole different ballgame. If you are talking about threading and fitting them, that can be learned. If you are planning on drilling and rifling them, then that is a VERY ADVANCED project.
Even pro level 3 jaw chucks are not perfect with hard jaws. To get parts to consistently run true you have to cut soft jaws using an anti-backlash ring. Good video.
Maybe better expalained:
a 3-jaw chuck only gives 2 features which are have the jaws tight and having them loose and then wherever your stock is tightened in the chuck, that's where the stock stays according to wherever the 3 jaws positioned the stock toward center.
However a 4-jaw chuck will allow you the precise adjustment to position your stock in the chuck in order to 'true' it up whereby using a dial indicator on the stock while it's in the chuck and rotating the stock while adjusting each of the 4 jaws separately to find center. The dial indicator will tell you how many thousands of run-out you have
May I ask a question about Tarig micro lathe ii?
I plan to do some wood turning on metal lathe due to some woods are very hard to cut with woodturning lathe. The Taig micro lathe with riser block can have 6.5” swing. Is that save to mount a 6” diameter fixture( sphere jig) on the Taig micro lathe?
Thanks.
What do you think about some of the grizzly machines? From what I understand they're branded offshore machines, but they have decent quality, an actual store in the US. They seem to be more like a step above harbor freight (they offer some models that are comparable/same as HF). Ones that i'm looking at are in the 1000-1500 range. The G0602 has my eye right now, a 10x22
My question is; what features do you prioritize? HP? size? Taper? DRO? spindle bore? threading options?
Ooo, thats a loaded question (one I have spent months reading into). Yes I like the Grizzly machines, I have G0704 mill which is awesome. Most of the 10x22 lathes are fairly decent with VERY similar builds for that price range. Lots of people like the G0602, all depends on what you want to do. Ideally a machine with a proper quick change gearbox (norton style) and a D 1-4 spindle mount would be my main choice...but that puts you in the $5k range and is not really considered a benchtop machine anymore.
If you can get a 10x22 sized machine with separate thread cutting and feed screws (so you are not wearing out your threading screws in normal day to day use) that would be ideal (sadly not a feature on the G0602)...also one of the reasons I do not have a 10x22 sized machine :). I could rant for hours on features but it all depends on the work you plan on doing.
With that said, people do amazing work with good and bad 10x22 machines...all depends on what you are after and how much tweaking/modifying you are wanting to get into.
Hope that helps more then it confuses :-).
IMO it has to do with what your Machining projects will be. I wanted a Lathe & Mill for 1 reason. Machining Custom Aftermarket parts for 1:24 scale auto models. So I’m looking at machining projects that are a little bigger than watch part’s! My choice was simple Sherline….☯️
I’m looking for a lathe to make rings on and have about $1000 budget, it needs to be good quality and easy to keep running and any recommendations would be much appreciated
What kind of lathe you have on your table and where can I buy the 4 jaw chuck plus the mill attachment?
So what actual machines would you recommend?
I’m curious what you think about older machines. Maybe a bench top Logan, or some such, what do you see being the most pertinent trade offs for older machines at a cheaper price point?
I would say machine condition and parts availability. If you can find a name brand with a good amount of tooling at a reasonable price, then I'd go for it. You can find parts and accessories for Logan, South Bend, Atlas easily, though I think some of the stuff on evil bay must be gold plated for the prices sometimes asked. You would have better luck on Craigs List finding something local to you that you could physically look at under power. What some people call "good condition" is laughable.. if it looks like a rusty pile of iron, run away! There will be a nice, well cared for machine for sale in a few weeks.
Curt does make a good point about what you start out with.. get the best you can afford. It is important to get a lathe that has a distance between centers at least twice the swing, e.g. 7x14, 10x20, 12x24. By the time you mount a chuck on the spindle and a drill chuck in the tail stock, you actual work area will start to be cramped if the lathe bed is any shorter than that.
Could not agree more, well said.
Great use of Chris Farely
Been following your channel for a while. Finally decided to plug in getting a used Taig lathe.
Awesome, thanks for the views and welcome to lathe world!
Keep your eyes open for a MyFord Super 7, they pop up once and a while in the U.S.A. That is a very good offshore lathe.
Good info
Thanks for the video and the info you provide.
Always happy to share! Thanks for the comment :).
@@CurtVanFilipowski looked at the sherline website and now am more confused on which "package" to order.
Can you make a recommendation?
Is there a Chinese version of the 5c taig headstock and please tell me a decent large 3 jaw chuck?
Precision Matthews and grizzly are offshore machines that have great quality very hard to find north American made lathe of any make.
Well I am a Tool mechanic which means I work with mills and lathes on a day to day basis and we only have 3 jaw chucks with which we work to tollerances of sometimes just 0.01mm and it is fine
@Kenny H well the parts we do are critical tolerance
@zane G most of the time
I'm looking into a lathe for around $800 to $1000. What machine is that in your video?
Thanks for the video. Do you have suggestions for starting my own workshop? For instance, what machines/tools are a necessity other than the lathe? Thanks bud.
That all depends on what you want to do. My advice is to try and build whatever it is you want (with whatever you currently have)...equipment / tools only help achieve those goals by making processes easier or quicker :). Best of luck!
@@CurtVanFilipowski thanks. I'm interested in making sequential movement puzzles. I dont have a means to make straight cuts though. So would you suggest a band saw or something else? Thanks for the quick response.
Ahhh, a man after my own heart (I LOVE puzzles). Band saws are great, they are still a "rough" cutting tool...however you can easily process cuts from a saw with simple hand tools to get excellent finishes. With that said there is a reason the apprentice classes (in both metal and wood working) arm you with nothing other then hand tools to make precision parts. Many a machinist had to make precision setup blocks (in steel) with a hacksaw and file...outdated, yes but it still teaches you the fundamentals of working to precision measurements.
I'm sorry to keep skirting around recommending tools...but they aren't your barrier to entry, they only make the hand processes easier or faster.
@@CurtVanFilipowski no need to apologize. I understand completely. I have so many ideas for puzzle yet lack th workshop and skill to make them. Hah. Maybe it's time. Thanks again. Keep up the videos. You do a good job.
I plan to make Lightsabers. What kind of lathe would you recommend for that?
A pink one.
what is the lathe shown in the video, it is beautiful
Looking to work aluminum at a max length of 14" and a max OD of 1.5". It's a Lightsaber build for my little brother. He's all about Star Wars. Suggestions on a lathe to work those specs.....oh yeah...I'm a Noob as well.
I bought the Taig 1017er and unfortunately didn't know how to read the specs on how big the 4 jaw chuck diameter would open. I need 1.625" and it only opens 1/2". Live and learn. ....they have a 10% restocking fee and I have to pay for shipping. Hope no one else makes the same mistake.
Great video! First thing I learned: I dont have the money to get into metal working, haha! Oh well, now I'll understand what other people are working with a bit better when I watch their videos.
Thanks, happy to have helped! You can start metal working WAY cheaper than this if its your passion. A ton of things can be made with a hacksaw and file (probably set you back $20 total)...sure its not a lathe but many budding machinists were forced to make 1-2-3 blocks with these 2 tools.
Curt, I don't know what critics may say, but I reckon this is an awesome video, thanks for the advice 👍
Hehe, this is TH-cam...you got to grow thick skin FAST as everyone is a critic. The 70% will tell you to fornicate yourself in some manner, 29% watch silently and the wonderful 1% are people like you. Thanks for the vote of encouragement!
Also 9000 points for using the word reckon in a sentence, its a gem of a word :).
Can you help me find a lathe workshop to do a 1,000-piece aluminum job?
Hey could you please give me some advice on where to get the cheapest lathe that I could use to make wooden bowls? I'd prefer to be able to make medium sized bowls, but I'd settle with smaller range if it saves me money, I don't have much to work with :/
There are many mini lathes and mini mills coming from China, but it is best to study and learn BEFORE buying. I have found that Micro Mark and Little Machine Shop sell a 7x16 lathe that uses a brushless DC motor that is very quiet and does not require the additional noisy 2 speed gearbox. The Micro Mark comes broken down in two boxes, so you can get it up on your bench without having to use a crane. The LMS version also comes with a fixed (non tilting) column. The current price at MM for this lathe (and the mill that uses the same motor) is $1,100. When I bought mine they were $750.
The mini lathe will do most things a gunsmith would want to do, except work on a bull (large diameter) barrel. Among the important things necessary to get started are a quick change tool post and an outboard spider. But by all means, READ AND STUDY BEFORE BUYING. A good place to start is at www.mini-lathe.com/ . There is a lot of info there, and you don't have to buy a book.
One small tip to get you started: The 3" chuck that comes with the lathe does not have a large enough hole. If you get a 4" or a 5" chuck then it will pass through anything that will go through the spindle.
My brother just bought his first metal lathe. It's an antique mini lathe and he is planning to restore it. It's a 1949 6" x 12" Craftsman Model 80 - usually catalogued as the 109-21270.
It's his 30th birthday coming up and I want to get him some tools or accessories for his lathe. Can you help recommend something? I know nothing about lathes
Hmmm, well the 2 tools that I use pretty much daily and could not live without when working with a lathe would be a Noga magnetic base and a dial indicator, especially useful if he is going to spend a bunch of time dialing in tolerances and adjusting for level on this old machine. The Noga bases with the fully flexible arms are ideal but even the cheaper non-branded versions are good. Start off with an inexpensive dial indicator, the nicer ones get expensive quick and are probably not needed unless he gets that machine REALLY dialed in. If he doesn't have a set of calipers they make a great gift and range in cost from $30 to $300...once again cheap ones will probably suffice. Thanks for the message and hope that helps out some!
What our you thoughts on Baileigh Lathes
is bt 30 thru chuck like a taig 5c?
Hey, what about Craftex from BusyBee? Those machines are really good for the price.
Yep, I have one of their mills. Quality is actually half decent in their $1500 and up priced machines (same castings as the grizzly machines). Their sub $1000 offerings are workable just require a bit more adjustment and fixing to get functioning well...IMO anyways :-).
I haven't used a taig or sherline mill/lathe but I've had great luck so far with used machines i have a 10x36 clausing lathe that i got out of a barn for 900$ i cleaned it up it still had flaking on the underside of the carriage. I also have a hardinge mill that I paid to much for 1400$ with a baldor mint II cnc servo but I'm selling it for what I have into it and getting a Bridgeport style machine. The problem with these is they are old and heavy and take up more space than your desk but I also do bigger work than you so I can't get away with a sweet little machine like yours.
I would kill to find an old clausing for that kind of price around here! Sadly vintage machines around here are either totally clapped out or require 14 feet of concrete for support and 3 phase power :) !
You've got a pretty sweet setup though and my clausing is a 1 hp single phase they are out there but the same 4900 models do come in 3 phase from the factory as well
what is your lathe?
Waar is deze machine te koop in Nederland!
I agree wholeheartedly with your assessment of the marketplace. Also, to avoid being victimized, the inexperienced buyer must not buy into the notion that the difference between similar looking machines is only their paint and price.
Options?
hey, have any eu-made lathe to suggest, maybe?
I would buy one of these in a heartbeat if they were easier to me to get! www.myford.co.uk/
Where do I buy that take lathe
Which lathe would be good for lightsaber hilts?
I'd probably go with something a little larger to get all the turning done in 1 setup...ideally something in the 10x22 range or larger would probably be ideal. With that said I'm confident I could build a hilt with this sized machine as well, would just have to get a little crafty with setups and assembly.
My dad uses one of the import lathes. It was an absolute bear to get it cutting true, and even after all the shimming and lapping of the rails, it still has a tiny amount of run out.
It was given to him and he is retired, so has the time to tune his lathe.
If you don’t have that time, and just want to get right to turning, buy quality. It’s more expensive up front, but far less frustrating.
it would help if you had a clip-on microphone.
Where are those video links?
Ahh, this video probably used cards which youtube has now removed. Just look up "mrpete222" , he has a boat load of great machining videos. Also "this old tony" made a great video on HSS cutter grinding. That should give you a good start :).
Thanks from Russia. Taig Micro Lathe - best home multi tasking machine for price\quality.
I agree, it´s not the lathe ! it´s the dud! awesome video
For a beginer-beginer Taig or Sherline???
Thats 100% personal preference, I'm a taig fan but I wouldn't say no to a sherline either. I feel taig has a little better value for the price but both are great mini sized machines!
Hello. I wanted to know the name of the machine and if possible, the purchase link. It is possible that Egypt imported it and thank you very much
if money is not an object and I WANT TO eventually make money and not upgrade and do any project>>>>>what do you reccomment? Ottawa canada.
If money is no object buy the most mass you possibly can in a full on toolroom sized lathe...the Hardinge HLV is a machine I'd love to have in my shop. Slightly smaller the Schaublin lathes are also nice...so many choices out there! All depends on your size / weight allowance and what you want to make.
The best one is the free one i got have a look if you like
Where do you buy taig lathes?
Many places but taigtools.com is a good start for this specific machine.
Hey! First timer watching your channel. Got sent over from TOT.
OK...buying your first lathe,,,WTF?!? Synth tee? Step back...step back...turn around slowly...grip wallet closed with both hands...run for your friggin' life- later dude!
well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
I bought a 12 x 36 atlas lathe 650 dollars with 3 and 4 jaw Chuck,,aloris tool post and a lot of tooling, by vintage and leave Chinese lathes alone,,, just got original milling attachment for atlas,,, and just picked up 2 - 6 inch atlas lathes 400 dollars for both,,, so I now have 1200 dollars invested in 3 nice well built lathes that have proved the test of time.
Sad think about atlas lathes is the gears are not steel. They are pot metal or pewter. Junk metal. My advise is to sell it and look for a Sheldon or Southbend. Much better lathes. Atlas is a poor man’s junk lathe.
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq I have 5 atlas lathes,,,2 - 12 inch. And 3 6- inch and only 2 gears out of the 5 show any wear,,,,l can slide micrometer and caliper down all ways and there all perfect and needle on dail indicator hardly moved on all there spindles,,,l buy and restore vintage tools, the flat ways on atlas lathes last forever,,, had to discard many southbend and Logan lathes because once v ways wear there junk,, heard many talk bad of the zmak cast gears,,,zinc,magnesium, aluminum and copper are kopter,,German for copper,,, all the gears in gearbox are steel,,,best thing about atlas is because of the gears they was bought as hobbyist lathe and never was in factories are classrooms and survived 60 years,,,you will be hard pressed to find a 60 year old southbend are Logan in good condition, l can turn anything they can with atlas just a little slower,,,I put a nylon gear as drive gear to save in case of crash,,,3 years ago and it's still in good shape,,,,l have 1500 dollars invested in all 5...And all look and work like new.. my buddy has a 40 year old heavy 10 southbend and comes over to use my atlas for very fine work because of his vway wear. Hell even many new lathes have nylon gears now,, 60 years my friend I think they have proven the test of time and deserve respect.
@@georgespangler1517 well if you restore lathes you certainly know more about them than I do. I currently have a 618 atlas and it was a good lathe to start on. I build kinetic wind sculptures and all I need to do is turn and bore round nylon plastic actually cutting board materials to go inside stainless bearing housing for my kinetics. I need to bore each for bearings and bore all the way through for axle or shaft clearance. The 2 bores that I make are 7/8” and 1-1/8”. This 618 is a little small for that. I looked at a 1938 Sheldon lathe yesterday locally. Outside of needing oil the ways looked good. Had some slack in the cross slide. The compound was good and stiff. It will probably need a belt at some point. Couldn’t run it because it was in a boxcar storage with no power. I turned the lathe Chuck and it didn’t seem to have slack in the head gear and turned freely. $375.00 for it and a lot of carbide inserts and tool holders. He said that he has more tooling and a quick change tool post for it plus and extra 1 hp motor. He was doing hobby type work but doesn’t have a workshop anymore since he moved. It’s on an original cast iron stand. Jacobs ball bearing Chuck on the tail stock. Being a 1938 it was not new looking but it doesn’t need restoring either. Outside of cleaning it up and oiling it should be ready to go. What is your thoughts on it?
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq l have 2 618s,,,have one that's never been used John I displayed it,,, you would have to spend 1000 to 1500 dollars to find a new lathe as good as your 618..
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq 375 dollars jump on it,,,2 weeks ago I drove 100 miles to pick up a 12 inch atlas and 618,,but big surprises was in the rusted bucket with them a milling attachment steady rest and follower and nice 4 jaw Chuck to go with the 3 inch all for the 12 inch and has exact same model number as my 12 I have,, 500 dollars for everything,, Sheldon is a good lathe,,, but if your in the pre 50s it won't have timken bearings Will be brass bushings,,there ok as long as there kept oiled, check the ways up close to Chuck and run it up and down them you will feel the wear if it gets loose near Chuck and tight to tail stock, you know what to look for ,just because it's a well built machine dosent mean it was well taken care of,,goodluck
but wtf is the one on your table, which is it ?
I know, Taig has a really strange site now...hard to find things. Closest package to mine would be:
taigtools.com/product/micro-lathe-ii-l1017-5c/
You would need to add the tailstock to that package (under accessories) and a motor.
Well, I'd counsel my kids with getting a Harbor Freight kind because they are the cheapest. After they mess around with it, get a hands on basic feel and understanding of how to use one and then find out they REALLY want a lathe and truely need one then I'd recommend getting one from Germany for the sake of guaranteed excellent craftsmanship in it's making with forever lasting quality.
The point is that many folks will buy something in the highest quality category and end up not using it because they REALLY didn't need it, OR they find out the goddamned thing is only as good as the the amount of required skill within the user. I mean these are folks that haven't attended a trade school or previously been exposed to any degree of training. So it just sits around being forgotten about, always. AAAALLLLL that money, hundreds or thousands of bucks gone out the window! For nothing. Trust me people, I'll seen this soo many times! I face palm slap my head and shake it saying "oh my GOSH, what a waste!"
Btw the one from HF may be precise for ones needs and serve as a secondary or backup one. But it won't keep up in the long haul, simply because they are ultimately not of the professional grade, esp for part of running a machining business (which I know that all this was needlessly said for those reading who are ace machine operators) Mm mm. It's true for the most part in this world you DO get what you pay for. And My kids can use HF to tide them over as they are saving up the cash to get the much better one. And I know that they will use and take good good care of it because of working hard to get it, while they had practiced on the HF one to get skilled, proficient that is.
If your kids are asking for a lathe you have obviously done something very right along the way :)....also well made points.
@@CurtVanFilipowski
I suppose Californian born and raised me should buy American. Super shame on me, huh? Well when it comes to metal lathes and milling machines, I'm prejudice in favor of German made ones. They are to me the most trustworthy in robust make and precise performance, because the Germans seem to have an obsession with exactitude and perfection in moving parts and mechanisms to operate up to supreme clockwork standard.
Like for instance have you seen that 1961 flick, The Guns of Navarone, and have you noticed the complex operation mechanisms of the twin giant guns in that mountain that had to be knocked out by the Ally commando unit? Noticed how quiet and smooooooth they functioned in moving the heavy parts of them 16" ship-smashing two-headed monsters - the opening of the breech doors, the loading of them, and positioning? I was like, "Good GODDAMN!!! THAT is some precision, in how they were engineered and made to perform like that!". The Germans just got stuff like that down to an epically scary science!
When it comes to cutting, forming, and shaping equipment, extremely important, like a lathe and milling machine that will cost a King's ransom, you want to get the best there is, or something next to it.
Good information you are giving. Please be confident in your own knowledge, and slow down.
Do a slower presentation.
Hello from iraq well done
I'm curious, with all the used 1950s machines out there why would anyone buy a new one.
@@johnsmith-zs9jq That all makes sense to me, and thank you very, very much for the reply. I suppose it comes down to who you are and what's your living / space situation, and what one wants the mill or lathe for to begin with. As a contractor I typically buy the most expensive best built portable tools available. I'm often asked why I don't own a massive this tool or that tool. The answer is always that I can't lift it on the job site. But the answer is never cost. Nonetheless, from your answer I think I can understand that the needs are different four different people, and the weights and skills required in space required are on a different level then what I'm accustomed to. So in any event I can still relate to your answer, and am grateful for the time you took to write it out.
Awesome reply John, thanks!
@@CurtVanFilipowski Thank You!
BTW, I can't see my initial reply to Joseph DESTAUBIN. What happened?
Strange! Someone must have flagged it as offensive or something? I don't even have the option to bring it back. Was a great reply as well, sadly this one was removed for a reason unknown to me!
@@johnsmith-zs9jq It was a great reply. I can't imagine that someone would flag something so benign.
EISEN or Precision Mathews
I have no experience with EISEN but they look to be of the same caliber as PM.
you skipped over the used market entirely.. i got a 10" 1940s logan lathe for $700 just a couple months ago.
That's awesome! Unfortunately I think it takes a bit of knowledge on machine tools to ensure you are buying a useful bit of machinery...and not a clapped out block of iron. With a little reading the used market is a great place to find some real gems!
I love to tinker but those import machines and the high quality video series by TH-cam content creators seem like it's meant for people with existing experience with lathes and general metal working.
Whenever one of those content creators mention a issue that popped up and how they fixed it is an automatic dead end for me. Each one of those walls seems like it will take a ton of time for me to troubleshoot.
Necesito un Tornero para qe hagan un trabajo en aluminio de 1,000 son unos platos pequeños.
가격은 얼마인지
구매 방법을 가르쳐 주세요
여기서 살 수 있습니다
taigtools.com
Cowell's lathe. It's machine porn. Hahahaha.
It’s a shame TH-camrs have to spend so much time in their videos preempting complaints from future viewers. I wouldn’t have the grace or patience to deal with it but then again maybe that’s why I’m not a successful TH-camr... just my 2¢...
so far i can't seem to find any lathes with 4 jaw chucks.
if i search
"lathe" i only see lathes with 3 jaw chucks.
if i search "lathe with 4 jaw chuck"
i only see 4 jaw chucks without the lathe XD
i'll be honest though , im more interested in machining wood for testing ideas in a pinch then i am machining metal
but it would be nice to be able to do both i suppose.
Its pretty common to purchase a lathe with a 3 jaw and buy an additional chuck should you want different styles...even with my Taig all my chucks were purchased separately.
@@CurtVanFilipowski i just find it a curious that pretty much nobody is selling lathes with 4 jaw chucks already installed.
and kind of just looking for a machine for making experiment parts like part holders and what not.
but i think i'll also be making tool handles with it as well.
i'm stuck in indecision right now as to whether i should get a lathe or a mill XD
slightly leaning towards lathe though as i can already think of several things i could put one to use for .
and sure i guess i could build these things by hand but knowing my luck i'll make them off center.
i definitely know though that i am not getting a 3d printer as that could get expensive over time with the filaments.
with lathes and mills i can use pretty much any raw material i already have laying around anyway.
please for beginners don’t buy a powerfull lathe. It can end deadly. Just be aware of your safety. And I can recomend swiss lathes.
Do you mean Swiss lathes as in Swiss Style (ie. Citizen)? If so thats a hell of a beginners lathe, kinda blowing the price point but I'm not judging!
I bought an old Schaublin for 350.- . The quality is great. If you would get a brand new lathe with equal quality you had to pay a lot more. Our lathes at work are built in the 60s and still are in perfect shape.
If your not a tinkerer, probably don’t get a lathe at all.
Dont buy it...build it !!
cough... cough... um....
it takes a lathe to build a lathe and it take a milling machine to build a milling machine...
No it does not
@@sandrabostic9453
Yes, a poor man milling machine can go a long way,
just hammer, chisel and perhaps a file.
Such as this one: th-cam.com/video/24hHwV6SejI/w-d-xo.html
One fine summer, I have tried to straighten a piece of S50C by a shitty drill press.
That was kind of educational.
l p no it don’t
Title should be "Buying Your First MINI-Lathe" as these Sherlines and Taigs are hobby lathes only, and there are HUGE differences between these mini-lathes and the 10" x 22" and up metal lathes from manufacturers such as Grizzly etc. In my opinion get a 10 x 22 and do so much more than those little hobby lathes could even think about!! And for very small parts you can fit a drill chuck into the spindle or into the 3 jaw and work it that way.
all these machines. there is still no linear guides.some not have even ball skrew unless cnc ready,but if its cnc ready there is dovetail gib thing LOL wtf where is linear guides they are so easy
I lost confidence when you said , I learn of youtube for cutting tools..WTF didn't you go to University to lean machining .
Anyway their are hundreds of lathes and mills to suit all price range that can produce 0.05 quality finish, even 600 bucks one from Harbour freight,
im in the Uk and have a £500 @ a 7x14 clearance and make engines
so i would say spend time researching the right machine for the job you need to do. if you don't get on with it then sell it, 99% of the time you will get nearly the same price for it so you don't loose much at all.
i find people selling their used stuff off for about the same price as new.
What did you buy? the only 'quality' one I seem to find (apart from the chinese ones who cost less, but could be crap) is the Proxxon for small size.
The lathes he mentioned probably are not made here in the United States if the truth was known. Assembled here at best. I need a drink after watching this guy.
You WERE !! CLICKBAITED !!
@@davidwillard7334 yeh it happens to all of us. Evidently you too or you would not be here. Lots of luck to you.
@@JohnDavis-yz9nq it Seems ! False ! Headlines ! Causes ! Clickbaits !
not bad but ya get off that stinkin coffee and SLOW DOWN
i have one advice. dont buy a metall lathe if you are not going to get your money back with it...
Probably not bad advice for most people
I somewhat agree...unless you enjoy it, for some metalworking is just fun and doesn't need to provide payback in any other method than just the enjoyment of it.
yak yak yak....
Please - speak slower...
First of all a cheap machine is a cheap machine, made down to a price because fools want high quality for a low price and expect to get it already running and machining parts right out of the box....poor fools.
This scenario will deter many wannabe machinists with dreams of making parts that have bright shiny finishes and made to micron tolerances all because the seller glossed over the fact that you only get what you pay for......scale down your expectations, learn to overcome the problems and be prepared to "adjust" the various problems as they become apparent.......nothing is perfect, and if you want perfection remember you are not perfect either......the nut that holds the wheel is the most dangerous part etc......being a skilled machinist I tend to overlook the confusion that noobs have when confronted by moving machinery, big or small.
I disagree with the statement about a 3 jaw chuck not running true.......you've probably never heard of a slack chuck register scenario that allows even a badly worn chuck to run dead true at any time.......most work in a 3 jaw is by gripping a piece of raw material and turning it to size etc.........second op work is a different matter.........a 4 jaw chuck can get you running true but it's not ideal for a start out or noob at first.
As an observation to this problem of getting quality for pennies..........the Chinese sellers could double their turnover by supplying the machines in parts roughly machined and for the buyer to then go the whole hog and make it a thoroughbred.....buying cheap means you are 3/4 the way to a good machine anyway by buying one that needs to be completely overhauled before you start.
Take a breath
Slow down!
Speak clearly!
Quit taking meth
No, you keep up :-)!
You are knowledgeable but, jeez, you are so difficult to listen to. Organize and plan your videos a little better.
"off-shore machines" yeah because USA makes better machines than Germany and Japan LOL
Was the most polite way to refer to sub-par manufacturing. I don't think anyone would make the assumption I was grouping German / Japanese made equipment into the mix...well, maybe 1 person ;).
THANKS!! NI'M LOOKING FO GOO "QUALITY, ACCURACY, AND VERSATILITY, "MANUAL" LATHE, OR MILL BUT, I'M NOT INTERESTED IN "CNC" MASS PRODUCTION, COMPUTERIZED CRAP!... I HATE COMPUTERS!!... (PAIN IN THE AS S...