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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ธ.ค. 2016
- This is an analysis of Panzer III/IV tracks and the variants, as well as ice cleats and pins. First I look at a number of surviving examples discussing the evolution of the tracks during the course of the war. Then I look at their depictions in 1/35 scale.
I use images for the track types I don't have, and I only mention the 1/35 types I had on hand when I filmed this.
Hamlkar Barkas's excellent review of the book I feature
• Video
Very interesting video amazing how much engineering went into the different track types can't wait to see more of your collection.
Thanks very much.
Looking at workable tracks for my Panzer lll and just came across this review. Excellent discussion about the different types of Panzer lll tracks and the comparison of kit tracks. Just a top notch video, great job!!!
Adam, you bring a very unique analysis to this hobby. Thanks for taking the time to share your German track knowledge with us. I have no doubt that many a model builder will benefit from efforts. Model on.
Thanks Russell, I really appreciate that. I hope people find it useful.
Right
Excellent video Adam, really interesting and well put together, I certainly learnt a lot and I really appreciate you taking the time to do it. Looking forward to seeing many more like this please 👍👍😄
Thanks for saying so, these are not quick things to make. There will be more.
I enjoyed the amount of effort and information you put into this. Very informative. I've struggled to find close up visuals of panzer tracks for a while (they're possibly there, but I couldn't find them). Thanks for the detail.
Adam, what a great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, opinions and parts!
Wonderful video. Thanks for providing such incredible, unknown and useful information.
Cripes, dude... excellent video. Very informative and very watchable. Really looking forward to more like this!
Thank you very much, I was hoping it would be well received so I appreciate the support.
Thank you for your great review, very useful, and the links you introduced too! And now I know that I used type 5A as my 1/6 scale Panzer III Ausf. H.
Young man. I've been involved in many restorations and have never known anyone that is as informed as you sir..excellent focus!
Thank you so very much for this informative video. I did not realize their were so many different tracks for the Panzer III and IV tanks.
Very interesting video about the different track types made for the Panzer III/IV based tanks. I had no idea there were so many. Thank you for your efforts!
That's exactly why I made the video. Glad you liked it.
good show! very interesting and informative,i look forward to all your exellent videos !
Very informative video. It's very easy to get lost in the minutiae of this wonderful hobby of ours. Thanks for sharing your research.
Great video, one of your best yet!
Thanks Curt. I'm trying to make good stuff.
great video adam really helped me ouy with the whole panzer III and IV tracks keep up the great work
Glad to help.
Very educational Adam, excellent video! 👍👌👏
Looking forward to see videos like this one!
Thanks, there are more coming for sure.
Another great mystery of WW II explained in great detail. Thank you for the great history class. Not something you would learn at school. Thank so much.
Thanks for this very interesting in debth explanation of different panzer tracks. I still miss your video's.
What an awesome review of panzer tracks. This is of great value much like most of your reviews. Thanks so much.
Thanks very much. I am working on a similar video at the moment on tool clamps.
Thank you for this video. Very educational and looking forward to hopefully more videos like this one.
You're welcome, there will be more.
Excellent video and thank you for sharing
Very useful information which I learned a lot from. Thank you for posting this video. Keep up the good work.
Thanks very much. I will keep going.
this was a awesome presentation
THANK YOU MAN! Really nicely done!
First time I learned that there are snow tracks and track inserts for the panzer. Thanks you for sharing this very informative video.
My pleasure.
Wow, dude, you know your stuff! Most impressive!
VERY VERY interesting! It was really neat to see all the different types that were made.
I'd also love to grab a real link for myself too ( now that I've seen they are out there ).
Thanks for sharing!
You should get one, it's neat to have them. With shipping from Russia they can be had for a decent price.
That was awesome! Super fun to watch, and I learned lots! I'd never seen those weird rare types before, and I didn't realize the Ostketten were incompatible with the more standard types. I really only knew of the Type 1, 3 and 5 and the solid or hollow guide horns, which I guess are the more standard ones. I'm interested in those Kaizen Ostketten...they look outstanding and wide tracks are the coolest :D
Thanks Evan. You of all people would probably geek out on Panzer III stuff. I think type 3 and 5 are the ones people recognize usually. Or hollow and solid horns.
Great video I really enjoyed it and learned something in the process, thanks for sharing
You.re very welcome. I like doing videos like this.
Absolutely cracking collection of real tank tracks Adam, I've only got a rubber track pad from a Challenger 2, hope to add a panther track to it someday...
Awesome, I have a Panther track, I want a Tiger I track badly.
Wow, I learned a lot; I had no idea of the quantity of track variations, just on the Pzkpfw III/IV's! German engineering - what can I say? I will never shrug off looking closely at model tracks again! Thank you for such an informative video!
Very intresting video! I had no idea that they whud flip the tracks around!
Hello Adam, A very informative video which has helped me ID the track I have just acquired, a type 3A. Jonathan.
Exactly why I made the video. Glad I could help. Careful, buying Panzer tracks is addictive.
Track pins already on the way! Jonathan.
Fascinating video. About fifteen years ago, I bought two pairs of identical type track links from a seller in Poland or Latvia and never knew the details other than they could have fit either a Panzer III or IV. From this informative post, it turns out one pair are Type 3 (a) and the other pair are Type 7 (without chevrons). Never could understand why the two different track link types couldn't fit together but now I know! I'll have to get a copy of the Panzerketten book even though I can't read German.
I can't read German either. I hold my Phone with translate app running up to the pages. It's a great book if you're in to collecting or just identifying tracks. Type 7 is a rare one, do you still have those links?
I still have the track links in my collection. They are in relic condition and never bead blasted or painted. When I found them for sale, I knew they were different and at the time, didn't know why. Found a really good picture on Reddit showing what I believe are Type 7's on a late production Sturmpanzer IV. Search for "Sturmpanzer IV or Brummbär German heavy assault gun in an unidentified town and date.". I'm speculating the German's introduced the heavier duty Type 7 track to meet the weight demands of the later Panzer IV variant vehicles.
Now that I know more about these various track link link types, I'll have to look to expand my collection. Seems the prices have gone up quite a bit since I bought my current links.
Nice discussion and builds!
Very nice informative video...thanks!
Thanks for making this video, as someone who is just getting into building replicas this information is invaluable.
Glad to help. I suggest getting the schwartzmann book, but if you have any questions hit me up.
Great presentation.
Thanks much.
I believe those casting spot you showed earlier are vent holes in the casting mold to make sure that the casting has been poured fully
Figured it was something like that, or where the steel gets poured in. I honestly don't know a lot about casting steel.
As usual, great stuff from The Mann!
Thanks very much Jim.
I love these vids
Can't believe theres a video for this! It's just the info I'm looking for at this exact time for building my bergepanther full interior with added ice cleats! I have the mini are panzer 3 Aust B/D mix its si different I had to get my hobby shop to order it in for me it'll be there Tuesday for me! I have the border panzer 4 bt001 there to build and the Sturmtiger from RFM full interior again the panzer 3 and 4 have great turret basket detail, I think the panzer tracks are so nice one of the nicest track links iv seen and can't wait to put mine together I purchased the ATL metal tracks for them all! Nice extra touch I built the bergepanther tracks with the kit and the details there and very nice but there really lacking a real nice track sag look maybe once painted and weathered up they'll be ok but I'll grab the bergepanther tracks when up at shop tomorrow not using plastic tracks again now haha! I have noticed with doing the ice cleats now they have kept the panzer and panther track casts the same for using the ice cleats on and track link the three triangle casting insertions was that the purpose of keeping the casting there the same all round?
The springs are look like the ones that can put some pound of pressure down in common work bench bansaws etc they'll no fall out in a hurry! There the ones I'm fitting to the bergepanther for a winter base scene wit my the mechanics its looking good! I remember you saying on a stug3 video they went in every 4 links would this be accurate for the Aust A bergepanther?
Which Dak tiger do you think is best Dragon Rye field or tamiya. Great work fully understand the tracks of Pz III. Just realised my dragon Pz III M has Type 2 Tracks!!!
The barrel on the Rye Field Tunisian Tiger is a bit too long, and the fenders are weird. The new Dragon one is very very good. I'd probably go with that.
Great documentation very well presented as was mentioned by others the shiny bits and chrome welding rods as the for the castings they where chrome /manganese and very hard the two round raised little where the molten metal was poured in to the sand casting and the small showed when it was completed thank you so much for the articles you post Leonel Cape Town south africa
Very interesting and informative, thanks.
Thanks for watching.
Very informative. Cheers, Adam. As you say, I'm not very likely to get my hands on any real links so getting the chance to cast a modeller's eye over them up close is a rare opportunity. I can actually see how (with many hours fiddly work) it would be possible to correct a couple of the flaws with the magic tracks. I've just done a Jagdpanther G2 with Model Master tracks from Russia. They're more uniform and take less clean-up than Friul and use individual resin track pin ends (one each side for each pin) rather than wire but end up surprisingly strong and fully workable. I burnished them rather than painting them this time, and it preserves all the hard edges, gaps and casting marks that even a thin layer of primer can't help but soften. Highly recommended. My current camera simply isn't good enough to do the detail justice, but I'll be posting it up on ISM soon.
You're most welcome. I'm going to try track burnishing myself for the first time on a Tiger build, I think a lot of people tend to lean heavily on the cover the tracks with dirt and mud idea. And I totally get that, but I think they have a lot of personality on their own so it's nice to find ways to just replicate and draw attention to them. Cheers.
What is size of the sprocket in kits and width of tracks in kits? I have Tamiya and Academy and they are 2 milimeters wider than real wheel and real track converted to 35 scale...
great info as always
I'm building dragon 6860 stug ausf a. and the ds tracks agent gonna cut the mustard
other than fruil ( I dont want to deal with tarnishing metal) what track set would you suggest
I like Kaizen tracks. I have made them for a Panzer III and they were great. About $20 if you can find them.
Another great video Adam! I had never seen a real Pzkw III track before. Really nice information. Where did you get those tracks? Very cool. Thank you for sharing. David
This video is awesome! Only the Germans could engineer a million (not literally) different tracks for the same tank, leaving modelers to scratch their head wondering which ones to get when shopping aftermarket.......thanks for all the clear information!
hey does someone know which were the usual tracks for the kursk period stugIIIG? dragon kits come with the type 3A but it looks like it is a too early type for me
3a was the most common type. Despite showing up early they were used all the way through to the end of the war. I have pictures of 3a at Kursk.
@@AdamMann3D thank you very much Adam :)
Hi Adam, the reason the tack welds are shinny is they're almost certainly made using arc welding rods made from an alloy of nickel. When welding dissimilar types of steel, in this case cast steel to armour plate, it helps to prevent cracking that would occur if you used a steel based alloy welding rod. Steel has a crystalline structure and because the tack welds cool so quickly because of the quenching effect of the cold steel surrounding the weld area that the carbon in high carbon steel remains trapped at the boundaries of the individual cells in the weld which makes it likely to crack. Armour plate has a higher carbon content than mild steel and is heat treated to give it its extra strength but isn't that easy to weld because of its carbon content. Nickel often looks like a dull version of chrome and can have a slight yellow tinge to it which may be apparent on your track plate.
Wow what a comment. Thanks so much for that. I have wanted to understand metals and welding for sometime now, but it's a big world to dive in to. I may need to read that comment many times to try and get it to stick.
Hi Adam. Thats very much a shortened version but hopefully will give you a little bit of an insight. Thats only a guess by the way but the fact that the tack welds aren't rusting suggests there's a lot of nickel in the alloy used.
Hey Adam, thanks for another great video! Just wondering where you go to buy such things? Really want to get my hands on a T34 track link or three!
Thanks very much. There are many groups on Facebook that deal with relic collecting and many guys sell right there. I just bought a C-Hook from a StuG/Panzer III that way this week. I actually know a guy that is selling T-34 links. Honestly though, ebay is where I started looking. You can find great deals or totally get taken to the cleaners that way. My suggestion is follow listings for a while until you're comfortable with your knowledge of "going prices". Also I'd always be happy to give you my take if you spot something.
This listing for instance is good for the track link price, but shipping is twice what the link cost. That's what turned me off for so long. Just like with kits, I wait for guys with good deals on shipping and the price.
www.ebay.com/itm/Original-WW2-Battl-Relic-Track-Link-for-the-Legendary-Tank-T34-SU-85-122-/192007050680?hash=item2cb48315b8:g:lHIAAOSwanRXgrYq
I have bought a Panzer III track and a Panzer Wire cutters from that seller, he's ok, but those T-34 links are heavy.
Got this snippet from the ASL forums. Thought you might be interested.Paul Weir stated: 'The Germans had a habit of when a newer and flashier version of some fittings like lights came out they often could be back fitted to earlier mountings. For example when the Pz III moved from 38cm (Ausf E-G) to 40cm tracks (Ausf H-N), the old drive sprockets could be used by replacing the toothed sprocket rings with spacer disks and new sprocket rings, retaining the core and all the mounting stuff. So you could see 40cm tracks with the earlier 8 hole drive sprocket central disks, but not the later 6 spoke drive sprocket with 38cm tracks."
That's an excellent bit of history I wasn't aware of, thank you. What is the ASL forums?
Adam Mann ASL is the Advanced Squad Leader forum. Mr Weir has contributed a lot of technical information. He added more in the same thread, which is about an insignia on a Panther. He also clears up a bit about early Pz V Ausf A. Apparently earl A's had the same machine gun port as D's.
Oh the forum is on Gamesquad. You may find some material there, especially if you want history of units battles, very good scenario's about your favorite cat.
And a little more information about tracks."Now that I think of it, for the Pz III, I think that they only had to add spacer rings between the bulk of the drive sprocket and the toothed outer ring. While the tracks were 2cm wider, they had the same pitch (IE front to rear), so the old teeth should work. Given the wear the drive sprocket's teeth would get, the maintenance people would be tempted to change those as well, any chance to catch up with more routine maintenance would be welcomed and taken. Besides, a change in track and it's width would be a bit more than trivial job and would usually only be done when the old stocks were gone. Most AFV that I can think of use a similar breakdown. The hub had a pair of toothed rings bolted on. Now while for speed you might replace the whole sprocket, once things quietened down you unbolted the toothed ring(s) and put new ones onto the old hub which now became part of your spares cache. The only parts needed from the rear echelons would be the toothed rings."
Fantastic research work, absolutely love it! But then again I wouldn't have expected anything less from you Adam! And as I am sure you have noticed, I agree with you completely about DS/Vinyl tracks, they flex wrong. It is also one of my problems with Friuls and Easy links Leopard 2 tracks, they are only hinged at one side of the connector link, and when it curves it looks just wrong. KUTGW!
Thanks very much, and it's nice to know other people don't like DS. If I'm making a replica, I'd like the tracks to look right.
Great video. I'd like to see a painting and weathering video on your tauch panzer III
Hey i am going to build my own homemade tracked vehicle, i just wanna know how to prevent rust on the tracks, i am thinking of painting it but tracks are in constant friction with the ground, i am afraid it will tear off easly. Any suggestion how the germans prevented their tracks from rusting?
The surfaces that touch other links or the ground will lose their paint, but the same friction polishes them and keeps those areas free of rust for the most part. You will get rust if they get wet a lot, but it's surprisingly not a big issue. If the links are cast of strong enough metal ( steel and manganese in Germanys case) they will last a long time. They used dark grey primer on theirs. That's all.
@@AdamMann3D Oh what a great info.. thanks a lot, nice video btw, well researched. Keep it up
very informative, thank you
my pleasure to share.
You seem to very knowledgeable about panzer tracks. I'm looking to build a Panzer IV G (161/2). But I'm struggling to find the correct model and correct tracks with winterketten. Any help would greatly appreciated.
Dragon do a great G kit number 6363, and for Winterketten you'll have to either borrow them from a kit that comes with them, or buy after market. I really like the Kaizen workable plastic Winterketten. They're about $20.
As I watch this again, I have noted some interesting things.
First of all, I do have a bunch of Type 2 from Dragon that came as magic track spares on my Pz III H Late (kit tracks were DS and Type 3A I believe). They look great and can fit with Type 3 as I have done on my Pz III. They probably gave me like 60 links which is cool.
Somehow I never knew Type 5C was a term, though I have seen tons of them as Kaizen makes a set and such. I guess before I figured they were just lumped in with Type 5B.
I think you alluded to this in the video but in terms of just the guide horn, Type 6A is solid horn (like 5B horn) and Type 6B is solid pinched horn (like 5C horn)?
I do think it would be cool to see Type 7 working with ostketten together. Sadly no photos but there's plenty of winterketten and Type 3/5 mixed up...
I wish i could go back and explain that 38 and 40 cm is correct. Measured from the pins.
Great work!. I love your video and model making. I am also a great fan of Panzer track links. I've been collecting them for more than a decade. By the way, most of panzer books and some model makers call type7 track as "Light weight track ". I always had question about this name so I measured all 38cm tracks. I found most of them weigh around 7kiro except type7. As you know There are two variations for type7 track,one with chevron and one without. They both weigh around 8kiros !. Most of type7 tracks were found on the heavy Panzers like Jagt panzer4 or Brumbear, not on common Panzer4 tank. I think this type7 tracks were made to last longer on heavy Panzers so it should be called as " Heavy duty track " ,since they are not "Light weight " !.
That's fascinating, i had never thought to weigh a track. I have done magnetic tests on early and late war tracks to see if the alloys were really worse in 44/45. They are more magnetic so that answer is yes. More steel and less manganese is more magnetic.
@@AdamMann3D I really don't know who started to call this track " light weight ". I think we should start to call this as " Heavy duty track " !
Hello Adam
What would be a common track found on the Panzer IV G used in Africa ?
3a is most common on all vehicles. When they went from 38 to 40 (I have it as 36 and 38 in the video) 3a is probably seen 70% of the time. I have good images of Panzer IV G in Tunisia after being knocked out and they are all type 3a.
That's crazy how worn they panzerr links are !
I'm away to check my panzer 4 border track see what the guide horns like now haha! I have just finished fitting them in pairs to the bergepanther track links bloody nightmare haha
Fascinating video Adam i bet the link with the uneven wear would have some stories to tell if it could talk also i have been thinking about starting to collect ww2 track links ect
I think so too. Be careful, it's an expensive hobby but I do really enjoy having these greet me when I come home from work. If you need any advice just let me know.
Thanks I appreciate that my main concern would be the best place to buy from I'm in Australia Ebay has a few good sellers the big expense is shipping due to the weight of the links :)
Really great video. I didn't realize that there was a small market based around the real track links.
I can't believe that people bother you about your dislike of DS tracks. While they can be really good for shermans, they aren't very good for german armor. Their only benefit is that they have no assembly involed. But in terms of detail, magic tracks are far better. If someone likes DS because they don't want to assemble the links, then that is perfectly fine. But they shouldn't try to convince themselves that the DS tracks are somehow superior to magic tracks. If they don't want to put in the time that it takes to assemble magic tracks, that is no fault of the tracks - that is their own problem.
As long as one knows how to correctly assemble magic tracks and has the extra time to do it, the result will always look better than DS. Something I don't think you mentioned is that magic tracks (at least some of them) even come with the cast numbers molded in - not something you get with DS. DS tracks sometime have flash, which is almost impossible to fix due to the nature of DS. It is very hard to cut off the flash without damaging the track. In addition, cleaning the flash would make the job tedious, defeating the entire purpose of DS tracks - they are supposed to not require any assembly or clean up.
That's a good point about the casting numbers on Magic tracks, I had forgotten about that. I do get some heat over my hatred of DS, which as you can tell I sort of addressed here.
fascinating discussion and comparison between the real things and real thing with model part. very useful information there. i wish more model builders would care for the technicalities and the history behind this kind of engineering and not sit down and build their models after models they have seen in magazines or somewhere else. the first step of professionality has to be the conscious thought and not a feeling you have because you are in the mood right now. if you can make it happen, please more!
There will be more of course Michael. Got another 5A in the mail right after filming. Not too much would have been added to the conversation, but it would have been nice to include it. I even learned a bit making this as I wasn't aware so many types were made into Winterketten. Schwartzmann shows a 6, but online I found all sorts. I can't thank you enough for showing me that book. I'll put a link in the description to your review.
When I saw Panzer III, I thought, I hope HB see's this.
i see everything :)
fairly unimpressed with this mediocre attempt of trolling.
dawwww, it's baby's first troll.
Right now, I happen to be working in Poland, very close to Germany. Based on your recommendation, I purchased the Panzerketten book on Amazon.de and stumbled across another book in German I also bought: "Panzer III Und Seine Abarten." They were only 20 Euros each new, which I thought was a bargain. I don't speak German either, but the pictures and translate apps make them worthwhile. I now know the Sd. Kfz. 250 and Sd. Kfz. 10 used the same tracks. That's useful if I can find aftermarket tracks for the 250.
I looked at some listings on eBay for original Panzer III tracks. There are a lot of listings from Latvia, Poland, and a few other places. I contacted one seller in Poland, but I'd really like to see what he has in person. In another response you mentioned German eBay, but are there any other sources for original track links you're aware of? I figure as long as I am in Poland and so close to Germany, the Baltic states, and Ukraine, I should take advantage and see if I can find some good examples.
Thank you for your videos. They're very informative. This video is especially good. I've watched it 3 times so far. You've opened a whole new world for me. Cheers,
You should look up the group Panzerketten on facebook facebook.com/groups/2205421512879883. I am one of the members, but lots of smart guys there to help you get better info on that region than I have.
@@AdamMann3D thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I left FB, but I’ll search around for some ketten public forums or militaría collector sites. Thanks again for your videos. The one on Dragon kits, explaining the various series, was especially useful.
time for a rewatch.
Great video Adam.and i just got that book...PANZERKETTEN ..its a great book.sham i can't read German as this book looks super informative. Maybe someone will remake it in English..lol..yeah i wont hold my breath.lol.but anyways.thanks for the video and the mention of that book.its great.
Ah cool the early ice bits I canny Pronounce it yet now haha but the late rectangular versions have the 3 triangle casting on the back of mine that fit in the link perfect so that would also help keep them in place with that spring load!
i know its about 5 years after, but could you please put up the measurements (in metric if thats not to much to ask) of the length between the tubes, the width of the sparr and the hight and width of the center tooth on the type 1, trying to recreate some, but i dont have the means to aquire the part to study, and, in recreate, i mean weld some stuff together, trying to make a pz, IV chassis, and having the right dimentions for the belts would have helped alot :)
Very helpful video, thank you! I own the Schwarzmann book as well and it really is the best source on the topic at the moment. And all for €20.. Can you imagine Schiffer or Fedorowicz coming out with a similar publication? It would most probably be somewhere in the $70 to $90 range.....
I thought the same thing, such a great book.
What tracks were common on a Late alkett Stug III?
If that is Al on the welds on the type 5, it anneals at a low temp, so playing a torch flame over the welds holding the link to the hull would soften the welds without affecting the steel at all. They would then knock off very easily.
Interesting, that helps me understand it a lot better.
First i have to say i love your video and it was very well done.
i have a (unfinished) 1:6 scale Stug III G in the garage waiting for better information (starting with the tracks and wheels) and am looking at 2 track designs (plus some slight mods), the first being the correct tracks links and the second the one with the 3 added ice cleats.
Do you know where i can find good, in depth drawings so i can have both drawn up in 3D that i could use as patterns for making resin and metal cast links?
any help would be useful
i was looking for a way to message you and give you my email address
Nice Adam !
Would it be possible to present an analysis of Panzer I/ II tracks and variants, as-well-as the Panther and tigers?
i own some of those too, i'd love to do that video.
Non rusting metal would perhaps be some form of stainless steel alloy, IIRC it was often used for welding.
That's what I was told, so it would make sense.
awesome Adam. have to put this in the favorites. you can never have to men references.
Regarding the shiny metal on the type 5A tack link, it is probably steel with a lot of nickel or chrome in the welding rod, rather than aluminum. Great video, though.
5:26 The real track links have injector marks on them too. :)
After watching the whole video, looking forward the see what tools you have and the any more "real" stuff. Tank jack? Good Job!!
Thanks, I'm watching a jack currently, but they're expensive. My videos that are set to be made are a few short ones on the shovel, wire cutters and C-hooks. Then a really big one like this on tool clamps.
Boy Where them Germans good when it comes to tanks and tracks, Thanks, now I know a lot more about tracks Adam. You will have me pulling all my models out to see what tracks they have lol.... Thanks again Adam
You're very welcome, It's awesome to share my obsession with the world.
mu dragon jagdpanzer iv l/70 uses the type 7 tracks
the welds on the late type (add on armour) are nickel/silver.
Since posting this video I have been told they were just about every silver colored metal you can imagine. Do you have any reason to believe it's nickel or silver?
because one of the only metals that will weld hardened steel is nickel-silver :) The Germans used either Steel or Nickel-Silver to weld armour plates together. They also used it to repair plating. It does not corrode, and remains silver in color, while the rest of the armour plating oxidizes. I have been involved in WW2 German vehicle restorations for a while, and whenever a tank is pulled from the ground, the only areas left un-corroded are the nickel-silver welds :)
The only material it really can be is nickel-silver :)
Mike
Michael Fuller Interesting. Thanks for info. Might have to pick your brain sometime. My collection keeps growing and I want to get involved with restorations.
I tend to like my tracks on the tighter end of the spectrum, not a lot of sag because loose tracks tend to get thrown to easily.
Is this on models or real tanks?
Both I use to drive an APC in the 80's when I was in the army. Now I build models of tanks so I guess some of the habits carried over.
Do you have a tiger 1 track?
I don't. I wish I did, but they're very expensive.
Try using Tweezers To show the tracks instead of your giant thumbs. Info is great and useful.
That's funny because I'm 5'6" and 120lbs. But I understand.
Great video, Adam! The piece of solder attached to one of your track is not rusted because solder doesn't rust. When you paint a model kit this is one of the things you have to be warned about. Do not rust solder. It could be painted, weathered but never rusted. Regards
Fascinating, thank you.
There's no way that's solder. If it's not rusted it's a stainless steel weld.
Tinplate & wires can be soldered not chunks of steel.
Where are you got the real track from? Amazon?
Russian sellers on German ebay. Diggers in Russia often post newly found parts there.
Hey Adam, dragon models is making a vk3601, the predecessor of the tiger 1
I saw that. It's the first model I'm excited about in a long time.
super
When I saw the title I thought it was about the Panzer III/IV not Panzer III & IV.
_"NEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD!!!!!"_
I've never been a big fan of the Pz III - I dislike the added armour of later models like the L. The shorter barrel 50mm variants illustrated here do look really good though.
They do have a nice look with the L50
Adam check this video out. In the beginning of this video they show a tank maintenance yard. Did they use 2 different types of tracks on the pzkpfw 4?th-cam.com/video/qdpCSMDQeX8/w-d-xo.html
I know it is 6 month now, but a good show off the different Tracks, but again the Germans used what they had, even a new Track type comes out ,if they have sufficient Numbers of it, they will use the older ones so long they fit together i even assume the fit different Types off Tracks together, later in the war the lack of Materials was quiet common, The to go with this tank had this this is wrong on this Tank , it only shows how it look on paper not on the real thing , or is someone thinking they stop the Production of Tanks while they have to wait one or two month for the new Track Links, or new Cuppola when they have a bunch of older ones in stock. I even have seen a Picture of a Sturmtiger with the so called early Roadwheels from Alkett.
Cotter pins
yes, I believe I mention those a number of times.