One of the Most SOLID Post Installation Videos I've Seen
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2024
- Today we're reacting to another fence video! This is very straight forward: How to Install a Fence Post! We're going to watch this video and critique it where necessary and compliment it where it's deserved. You know the drill; watch, enjoy, and let me know what y'all think in the comments below!
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I'm Joe Everest, The Fence Expert. On this channel, I'm going to teach you everything there is to know about fences. We're going to show you how to build a fence, everything about fence posts, different fence installation methods and much, much more. If you're wanting to become a fence builder, or if you're just trying to build a DIY fence, my channel will help you out. So subscribe and ring the bell icon, that way you don't miss any of my fence videos!
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Joe, Excellent problem-solving discussion format. You got my brain cells working. Succeeded today in my 1st ever pole installed. Plumbed, leveled, and cemented hole at 36" deep. Problems overcome 1st due to some big water drainage concerns, I thought it best preparation to 1st treat the new 4x4 pole with a little mineral oil mix and follow-up with 1 coat 36" of asphalt roofing tar. 2nda placed a stone to keep the pole above the water built up at the bottom tip of the 4x4. If I may add a little lesson learned that prevented Mother Nature from getting mad at me and drowning a gate post. 1st problem that almost kicked my ass was I observed the natural slope of the ground drained water right towards the gate post hole. Hence, I appreciated your researched suggestion that others were using to raise the pole above the water. The stone left me with 30" vice 36". So far appears to support a 6' gate with ease.
“You can never check the plumb of a post to many times” you are absolutely right on that
I appreciate you watching, thanks!
I use a fence post level that attaches to the post providing levels in both directions continually. Makes getting the post straight and level dead easy. I just wish I could teach it how to dig the post hole!! :-)
27 years ago I built about 400 feet of 6 ft tall full privacy fence. That's about 50 posts. I set them 2 feet deep and dry poured an eighty lb bag of concrete mix for each post. For posts I used 4 in landscape timbers. Caught them on sale for a dollar each at home depot. Just last year I had to replace about 8 of those posts because one had weakened enough that a strong wind broke the others on each side. Same thing happened with another section this year. The point is that after 27 years there was very little rot even in those cheap landscape timbers. The biggest problem was the wind. 6 ft privacy fence catches a lot of wind. Almost all the remaining posts are leaning 6 to 8 inches. Not broken or crooked. Just leaning. I set the new posts 30 inches deep and filled the holes to the top with wet mixed concrete this time hoping that will help.
I'm a 63 year young Aussie old fart, a Jack of all trades and master of none.. personally I'd put the concert level to soil & sloped away from the post , after coating the bottom of the post with creasote or old diesel oil.. minimum of 2 coats.. suppose that is just me..
We have torn out many old wood fences and replaced them with post master fences but after doing this a while we found it makes no difference. The post will rot where the concrete starts weather its at grade or below. Gravel on the bottom only helps if water can escape from the inside of the footing. Over time the post shrinks, creates a gap between then post and footing. Basically acts as a funnel. Also in areas with heavy frost it is best to leave the footing 6" to a foot below grade as the frozen dirt will help keep the footing from lilting. Love what you do Joe with breaking down these videos. Opens up for some great discussion.
Thanks Anthony, I appreciate you sharing your experience!
Myself, too, after pulling many posts gave found depth and solid compaction best tools for good post performance. Rot will happen regardless. In fact, the more you do the more they rot. Bare post (no cement or treatments) seem to rot less but still some.
This had gotta be one of the weirdest genres on TH-cam 😂 a guy watching a guy dig a hole and "react" to it.. just wow.
True. And just think we’re watching a guy watch a guy dig a hole. Ha ha.
Oh, dear, and now I'm reading comments written by a guy who watched a guy, watch a guy dig a hole...
Atleast there’s skill and knowledge involved. What about all the vids showing people chew on crunchy stuff and weird colors and all that. That’s what I call an odd genre, nothing more than time consumption while not learning a drop of anything to improve your life
No I want to start a channel that watched this reaction video and reacts to the review..
Not really. It's basically a fact check for instructional videos. More of this is needed because after getting into the trades and performing a broader scope of work I've learned there's A LOT of bad info. Either people that aren't good giving advice or people who maybe read things without actually performing the work creating click bait etc. This guy's content is pretty awesome and definitely needed
The heart of the tree comment is valid. As a carpenter in hand picking lumber the position of the heart and end grain of each board is vital. Yellow Pine especially has a tendency to bow or twist therefore the heart is the most stable part of the tree.
Great video observation. Love your format. I do fences part-time and I do my post holes exactly like this guy except put moisture barrier where post meets the dirt.. NEVER had a problem with one leaning in 20 years.
he enlightened me on the "eye" in middle of wood thing though. Thanks for sharing
we've all shaved several holes in our days. great vid brother. i learn something new every time
You answered a comment of mine a few weeks ago. I am using 4x4-10ft posts, 3ft down, 1 foot across, plus cement mixer + using 1-2-3 mix, to make a 100ft fence and, basically, yes apart from the bracing I do the same.
To brace I use to pieces of rail either side with one across, 4 screws, a ratchet clamp and a post level so I can make lots of mistakes and still have lots of room :D
Back in the day we used to put 1 incn gravel stone on the bottom of the post before the concrete pour to keep the post from making dirt contact and to help with water drainage.So you are right a paver or stone cannot hurt.Great video👍
The frost line in Michigan is 42” and when I installed 300’ of 6’ tall treated privacy fence about 10 years ago, I set the 10’ 4x4’s into 48” holes, on top of gravel I tossed in, and I didn’t use any concrete at all. I packed in something called “county-mix”, which is a gravel mixed with fines (stone dust) which ended up settling quite a lot but after multiple minor fills...it sort of hardened like concrete.
I don’t recall what I paid to have the county-mix delivered but just last week I had to widen the driveway approach about a foot so I bought two 32 gallon garbage cans full of the county-mix for less than $20 but the problem was the weight since a yard of it weighs 3200 Lbs. Anyway the point of the mix was to keep microbe laden dirt away from the wood posts. And with concrete, I’ve experienced post shrinkage over time, which then allows the wood to get wet.
Everything is still perfect, except for the huge carpenter bees boring under the rails and the somewhat protected areas of the posts covered by the pickets. I just started spraying the hovering male guard bees with Sevin attached to a garden hose, which drives ‘em away for a couple hours so I can poison the holes before the guard is either replaced or they’ve recovered. Well that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
I appreciate the video & information. I learn something new every time.
Zelda Fences and Landscaping up Northern BC Canada. We have lots of different types of earth up here, lots of rock. I insist of course on PT posts, won't build a fence without them. For the bottom of the post hole I use the post itself to compact the ground, use bag concrete same way to leave an anchor at the bottom. Then use the excavated material to backfill and tamp hard on the way up. I find it saves me from having to take away the residual earth, and saves the client on concrete. I've never had a previous client call me back to fix a post. Solid method. Respect from 🇨🇦 , happy sub to your channel
Good luck to this reviewer. I like his review style and positive mindset. Good show sir !!
Thanks William!
Hey Joe! Thank you for the fantastic video reaction! It meant a lot to hear from an expert your take on my technique. I love this so much, I decided to put together my own reaction video to your reaction! Look for it next week! Thanks again.
That’s kind of odd and unnecessary lol
@@ZoneOne2150 there is nothing odd about it, he can answer the questions or items that are unclear in this review, Like the location and frost layer etc,
I think that is an awesome idea!
I really like this video style. Joe really knows his stuff, doesn't mind sharing his expertise and he is very open minded about others techniques. A lot to like about this!
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching and weighing in!
Joe you have the right words to appreciate, on other way of doing the job. I enjoy the insight on the weakness in the schemes that fencing have.
Great ideas and the review with the contractor was excellent, Thanks.
Very welcome, always happy to help!
We are going to build a fence. I am going to use steel posts. In Texas it's not to cold but has been in the last few years, however, shifting is bad here. I subscribed because I need to learn more! Thanks for sharing your expertise!
I took my time, and used a shovel to get started, then water and a crow bar afterwards. Did as much as I can before it becomes difficult, then filled up the holes with water & cut through about 1/2 a foot of dirt like butter with a crow bar the next day. Repeat until you have your holes dug out in 3-5 days.
I worked at one fence company and we pre mixed the concrete in a bucket then poured the wet mix into the hole. Then was offered more money at a different company and they poured a bit of water in the hole then dry concrete then more water on the top. Then take an 1/2” steel pipe and stab it into the concrete so it would help the water get all through the concrete. Add water if needed.
I like the 2nd way because the post is set right away. No 24 hour wait.
Like joe said to each their own!
Typically....a good video. B&O has some good stuff. Finally, we live in an area where locust is available. It’s Gods choice for fence posts. With good drainage , a locust post milled or not will last longer that the supposedly 30 yr rating on treated lumber. I installed a locust post fence in 1992 and it’s still standing!
What I found to be the best is crushed rock, bottom and around no rot
I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience!
For any outdoor post set in concrete, I like the the top layer of cement to slope away from the post to drain away from post and keep wood drier.
Great process, I appreciate you sharing it with us!
I'm a retired wooden boatbuilder of 45 yrs, boxed heart timbers and post are always the most stable when it comes to warping and twisting.
His right about the heart, I've been in the sawmill busy for over a decade and I'm classified as an expert in my field.
Rad, Saturday eve watching fence post vids and I don’t even have a fence;)
Thanks Wes, I appreciate you watching!
The strongest part of that post is just above the ground until it rots which may take 15-20 years or more. Most of the fence I install is stockade. I will install 2x4 and set the panel on that secured to both post. I also will run deck board 5/4 on the back side of the panel from bottom of the next post to the top of the gate post, this will keep the top of the gate post from moving. This extra step will keep your gate post strong.
I would also suggest using the rot bloc material at the bottom of the fence post to block moisture
i allways level the posts with 2-3-4 before cement , works a treat .. and saves me the water compas checking time after time
I like that you aren't super critical but I would absolutely have dinged him on a couple things. The hole should always be three feet deep imo no matter what climate range you live in. When I lived in PA we dug deep busting rocks to get below frost line. I live in Florida now and I dig deeper and buy 10 foot posts for a 6 foot fence to protect from high winds and the digging is easy. I love the foam personally because it keeps moisture off the post and is easier to install by yourself. This guy was absolutely right about choosing posts by looking at the end grain. Posts can warp bad if chosen wrong imo.
Hey Joe, Just ran across this video. I live in an area where termites pose a threat to wooden post more than rot. So I try to avoid any ground contact. With that said, it is my understanding that it is bad practice to fully incase the post in concrete. A couple of things I do: 1) I put a piece of paver in the bottom so there is no ground contact. 2) I will put termite insecticide into the bottom of the hole to ward off the hungry ground dwellers. 3) bring to concrete just above ground level sloping it away from the post.
Sounds like a solid process, I appreciate you sharing it!
okay concrete hand mixed....most people mix it entirely to wet...the "strength issue" isn't an issue in setting posts, the concrete isn't
under a compressive load like a foundation or driveway slab...it is taking the place of other back fill material such as aggregate...the real issue; wet mix is going to take longer to set thus longer to hold the post securely....it is easy to do 120lbs to 180lbs hand mix in a wheel barrow and with a round shovel (electric barrel mixers mix to wet and aren't easier; you still have to lift bags of concrete, need a wheelbarrow and will have another tool to clean...put in about 2 gallons of water first, pour in first bag concrete (60lbs) and mix; it will be very soupy...add second bag and mix will start to become stiffer add about another 1/2 gallon water...mix until no dry cement visible....add another 1/2 gallon water and mix then add third bag....begin mixing and slowly add water, mixing throughly until you achieve about a 5" slump (mix will retain shape in shovel)... (once you're used to this, it takes about 10 mins to do)... with post in hole at proper location and plumb (use string lines and tape measure ,always measure from start/corner post) shovel cement around post equally, "rod" concrete, tap post just above concrete to get "cream" to set around post... finish top so it slopes away from post... the stiff concrete will hold the post plumb and set enough in 2 hours to allow constructing fence...if you want to keep bottom of post off the dirt; after the first couple shovels raise the post up and down a few times the concrete will flow under it
your right about the rotting of the post. I've only seen them rot flush or a couple inches down.
I like the color pattern in your background with the different color stains. Gonna try that in my new cabin!~
It was actually pretty easy to install, we picked it up here: restorativewoodproducts.com/collections/rewoodd-reclaimed-wood-panels
Don’t know if this is not advised .. but when using a post hole digger, after getting the hole started, I sprayed with water to soften the dirt ..
I liked to use my own concrete mix, nice and wet, sets rock hard! I DID though, make sure that we had a hole large enough in proportion to the post to allow for sufficient hold in high winds. Wooden posts will ALWays rot!
Just found your channel, great videos!
Thanks for watching, good to have you!
The warping makes a lot of sense. The center it will dry evenly. The center also called a plith can also crack all the way through following the center of the growth. So can go either way.
Adding to this, in wood working, you typically try to avoid the pith as it can cause more warping.
My approach is to put a large concrete mowing strip along the length of the fence. Easier care plus no soil around the post. Thanks for another great video Joe.
This is counterproductive to combating frost upheaval. But I've never seen a post lift from frost forces although codes talk about it often.
Cement set below ground level and covered with soil reduces this. Rob Peter to pay Paul, I guess.
@@finallyfriday. We don't get temperatures cold enough for that to ever be a problem.
Posts deteriorating at ground level: weed whackers are going to chew away at the post waaaay faster than natural decay. I'm of the opinion that you should make sure you slightly overfill your post holes with concrete so that the concrete will shed water away from the post. This also has the benefit of giving a three or four inch buffer zone that will take longer for grass turf to fill in. This means you can weed whack without hitting the post for a good while. Not necessarily the prettiest thing to look at, but it's a sight better than a chewed up post that's listing badly one way or the other.
I've been looking at Bitumen/tar post wraps for the aerobic zone; you heat the wrap so it becomes soft and sticky, sealing the wood.
Agreed, there’s a product called PostSaver that seems to accomplish this!
Hi Joe, looks like it will turn out alright, although what I like to have is the post centered in the concrete. I’m working a fence, 4” posts, that have been set like his in the video, likely because they were not accurate on the string line, and every flippin’ one of them leans in the direction where there is little to no concrete. I’m digging around each post enough to get at least a 16” diameter with about an 18” shovel depth to give it some mass. About all it’s centered in the hole.
I like to bring the concrete up and slope it away from the post, not to protect from rot, as I agree they will all rot at the interface, but it’s to keep landscapers from beating the hell out of the bottom of the post. I have some that look like they have been run through a pencil sharpener! To be fair to landscapers, the same applies to sons that better things to do in their minds. I remember those days to, but I’m better because of them. Thanks Joe.
Here from Canada... 48" deep frost line and we put a dry bag of concrete at the bottom of the hole and spray it with water then set the post then poor wet concrete to fill.
Just set a half dozen 4x4 posts directly in the ground with no concrete. Dug 30 inch deep holes, added 6" of gravel, then packed alternating layers of gravel and clay around each post. The way they make pressure treated now I expect the posts to be rotted in
I have to tell everyone the secret of the stones.
The bottom of your hole is always concave.
Rocks make it easy to plum because they are easy to tamp and level.
It has nothing to do with drainage.
If you want that pole to last; keep it for a year to dry it.
Now that its dry drill a hole through the base; insert rebar so that it sticks out evenly.
Apply tar to rebar & post.
Stain everything above ground.
I appreciate you watching and sharing your experience!
Whether or not finished concrete above or below grade, it only takes a second to “dome” concrete so it slopes away from wood post, and most likely, will help prevent rot. To what extent I don’t know, but for a few seconds of time, why not?? Promote good practice. (Same thing we do with engineered rebar piers when we do more than one pour).
I'll be starting on our fence this weekend, thanks for the good info 👍 I wouldn't mind if you wanted to do it for me 😅
This is a great comparison video
Thanks Gerard, I appreciate you watching!
Joe i like your optimism as the paint was drying....dam. Nice to see you picking up on the tips and tricks. The couple of posts that i have seen with rot where right at groung level in aerobic zone. Was thinking of leaving concrete high so no soil contact but as you mentioned people mentioned rot still occurs. Wonder if some type of flashing would work better 2" above aerobic zone ? I have seen some timber that was laying on some flat rocks that looked to be really old no rot?
He said, "we've shaved several holes in our days" hehehehehehe 🤣 sorry had a Beavis and Butthead moment when you said that.. 😔
😂😂😂
Good review
Thanks Terry!
When I was young I remember my dad coating the bottom part of the post with a thick layer of tar.
Exactly. All you need to do is spray some sealant right where the post meets the ground. THAT is where 90% of decay happens.
Or now a days flex seal liquid rubber to depth of bury line.
If the post cracks and allows water in ..id thunk you want the bottom.unsealed format to.draim out more easily
My dad and grandpa both did this.
There were always 2 buckets.
1. Some of the tar was poured out into one of the buckets.
2. Then, the fence posts were dunk into the tar, if the post was going deeper, then the tar from the other bucket was poured along the sides and allowed to run down.
Many of the post we put out were close to 2 & a 1/2 to 3' deep. Lived where the freeze point was 18 inches to 2 foot.
Wrong. That will keep water that drains down n the post. Add 6” of gravel below post, so water drains away
That's all nice if you have days messing around,center your string,dig the holes,your string tells you if your off,push string over,set corners dry,now set your lines,make up some slump to crown post,come back finish it off,thousands of dry sets,if your in very acitic soil you can dip them,got to keep the crew making their money.
Good objective video. Thank you for sharing. I'm debating whether to build my shadowbox fence with the rails between the posts or in front of the posts. Any input on that?
Personally I believe that the fence is stronger with rails built on the outside. Great question, thanks for watching!
Great video.
Less contact with the soil offers some protection from rot & termites....
Since fungus must have water, food (your post), and oxygen to grow, and since the amount of oxygen below about 6"-8", especially in soil with a lot of clay, is pretty negligible, what do you think about a moisture barrier system with a thick mastic layer coating on the post covered by a thick heat shrink membrane from about 9"-12" below grade to 2"-3" above grade as a moisture barrier for the portion where there is oxygen available. Would such a thing help avoid rot in the aerobic zone of the soil?
Ground contact isn't as important as wet contact. If you are making a concrete-filled hole, the concrete will hold some water, preferably not constant. The water can drain or evaporate. if you have dense clay soil and you gravel fill it then concrete, you are essentially creating an area where water will pool. and remain wet. the lumber can wick that moisture up to the oxygen layer and cause rot. In this case it is better to place the post directly on the clay to prevent additional water pooling under the post.
When I install 25’ - 30’ vertical ham radio antennas in the ground that have a lot of wind load, I will typically dig about a 6”-8” hole for a 1.25”-2” aluminum mast that is about 2.5’-3.5’ deep. I put the mast into the hole that has 6” of gravel at the bottom. I fill in around the mast with 3/8”-1/2” gravel and tamp it down as I fill in around the mast. This provides an extremely strong foundation without the use of concrete.
With this being said, the same principle could be used with wooden or galvanized fence posts. And the mast or fence post can be easily removed if necessary. On top of this you don’t need to wait for the concrete to set.
Great process, I appreciate you sharing it!
I make the bottom of the holes wider than the top to keep the frost from heaving the concrete.(bell shaped 🔔. Also when I set the post I lift the post up a few inches after a few feet of concrete is in the hole to get concrete under the post. This keeps the bottom of the post from rotting and no need for rocks or bricks in the hole.
Sounds like a really solid process, I appreciate you sharing it!
Hey Joe, I got a question for ya. I am looking to install a privacy fence at my house myself. Can you use landscape timber and your post instead of 4x4 to cut down on the cost?
I pick out 4x4s that are slightly bowed that way I can position them where the bow is in-line with the fence. alternate bow to the left, then bow to the right. This seems to stabilize them. the perfectly straight ones can bow after install, and its a 50% chance they bow in or out, leaving you with a wavy fence.
My experience it all depends as with most things. Put a rock/brick in the bottom if the post is going to have down force. Skip it if the post has side force.
Hi Joe. I'm not a fence expert by any means. Shouldn't all post in areas where there is frost possibility to use sono tubes. My reasoning is that a lot of holes that are filled with concrete are not very uniform from top to bottom. Filling with concrete around the post with no sono tube leaves the sides of the hole jagged and irregular allowing the frost to heave it. When the frost gets into the ground and expands the post can easily heave upwards and stay there due to getting hung up and also dirt can accumulate under the post over several seasons of frost heave even if the bottom of the post is below the frost line. Therefore a smooth sonotube wont let this happen.
The smooth sonotube would likely make it easier for the frost line to heave the post, as the post footer would be smooth and have nothing to grip to in order to resist the push.
8" round hole is more than enough for a 4x4 post. Paver/ brick at the bottom, backfill with 411 Stone to about 4 inches from the top, soil the rest of the way, get the pickets about an inch and a half off the ground, and you are good to go. I've done plenty like this, and not have had any issues as a result. Picking out the perfect wood is not practical when you're getting a load of 50 post delivered. Up in my area, we have to dig down 38", but only in certain cities. Posts end up about 5'6" out of the ground, and 2'6" in.
Sounds like a great process, I appreciate you sharing it!
This is how I'm doing 100 meters of fenceline. I'll have to post you a video mate.
In Arizona, there are termites that live in the ground. If the bottom of your post is exposed to the earth....well you know. 😂
What do you think about purchasing the harbor freight gas powered auger? is it good enough to get the job done?
I had to pull two posts back out after curing because I did not use string line. They were 6 inches off.
I have pulled my share of old posts. And the ends in concrete exposed to the dirt rotted most of the time, BUT no where near as bad as the ground level of same post, so my experience shows it does not matter as the post at ground level will rot through first.
Pulled some 30+ years posts back out of ground. When I had set them I used no cement. Posts still good as new except at ground level that had some rot. Lost about 5% of its original volume at that line. Cedar posts with bark left on.
I've been searching for a video showing how to use the metal fence post to attach to wood, but it's very hard to find..
I am trying to repair a 98" by 100" corner of the yard, and the neighbors have a shed that butts up against our property, so in certain areas I won't be able to reach to install screws on the section against their shed . Any help is appreciated. ( I watched the postmaster video, Lowe's only has 7-1/2' available ~$36 ish... But no other hardware & I sorta need to geter done soon, so looking at round metal post.)
In my experience installing by myself is to attach a stabilizing board front back n side to side just to ensure what I need it to do... And I just removed 363' of old post b split rail fencing and replace all new post b Kentucky Board 16' ers. Today. Always a million ways to skin a cat but what's gonna work for said job... Dude didn't do a bad job but one can tell he Is a fyi kinda guy.
Hey Joe, How do you feel about using bitumen paint from the bottom of the post to about 2" above ground level to seal it and protect from rot
I think it’s a pretty solid solution, there’s a product called PostSaver that uses it!
Is it overkill/waste of money to use the building form tube to pour your cement into? Also is drilling holes in the posts and placing rebar through for the cement to grab on to?
I think you got the heart thing backward Vern. Go ahead and buy those, and leave the FOHC ones for me.
Nicely done.
My problem is I need to move a post about 3 ft. so I can Install a double gate. I've already removed the post with concrete attached, all in good shape. Should I just dig a bigger hole and add more concrete?
Seems to me a well driven post is best. Deep and tight. I've pulled t-posts that were 80 years old and in mint shape with only a little rust. Bare cedar posts 30+ year with only rot ring at ground level but perfect below that. 4x4 treated in good shape except at ground level. Just figure every post has some natural life span and accept it. Everything deteriorates right at the ground and all that gravel, treating, pads, cement, coatings is just time and money. Plant it deep, pack it tight. Brace it if it has horizontal loads. My 2 cents.
I install a cross t at 24 " from bottom of post this sets all post at 6' . Concrete will be under post. Hole would be 29 " deep . I hav switched to gravel on common posts concrete at gates .
I tar the bottom of the post and then roll a mixture of 50% used motor oil and 50% diesel fuel. Let it dry well. My dad did it that way when I was just a young boy (8) and those post are still in great shape today and I am 60 y/o now. Plus I like color it makes them. The trick is to make sure it is a dry pressure treated post, not the wet wet one you get from the store.
“Holes” are great!!!
The Japanese wood workers are very very particular about wood grain.
The Japanese still have structures over 1000 years old standing to this day. There is a nuance to wood grain thats more than meets the eye. Cuts off of center will dry the grains differently. Wet to dry a board will want to be a tree after it leaves the mill. Not every tree can grow perfectly straight but every board can be cut straight, and with supply and demand on better cuts usually fence post get the short end of the stick. Standard grade usually is 2 or better some places its grade 3-4 just like studs and that denotes the number of hearts per a certain length (can’t remember what that length is) the more hearts the more spots for unequal drying along with how each stand of wood grain holds its structure. regardless some boards are just meant to bow or twist. It’s how you cut and mount them that can either help or worsen the imperfections.
HI ..Thanks to B&O Craftsman for the original video and Joe Everest for the great review and comment. I"m in the midst of replacing posts and fence that was installed by a contractor 5 years ago...yes 5 years ago. (My neighbour hired him)
I believe the contractor owned a small mill and milled all the wood himself (Douglas Fir/ BC Canada) and did not pressure treat or oil them up at all. The soil here is wet heavy clay....most all of the rot in the 5" Sq posts that I'm replacing was at ground level to about a foot or so into the soil. The bottoms of the posts are surprisingly solid.
SO, I've come here to get advice. What I'm thinking is, I"ve dug the post holes down between 36-46" (we have deep frost here in Northern Canada) and then filling around the posts with a mix of gravelly clay, i.e. gravel to encourage drainage and enough clay that it will pack solidly. Then stopping short of the ground level, and filling that part with concrete ("Post Haste") with a pyramid shape to drain water away from the posts. Again this is northern British Columbia Canada...we get a lot of rain, snow and deep frost. Oh...and I absolutely hate having to spend time rebuilding fence...when I should be FISHING!!!!
Any suggestions, experience and/or advice greatly appreciated! Thanks!
With the treated lumber we have now it’s best to coat the what’s in the ground it dose last as long as bed
Agreed, there’s actually a product called PostSaver that’s made for this exact purpose!
Seems like a solid job to me. I try for 36" every time as I live in the north east. I also do the stone drainage at the bottom. I like the post to set in at least 3 or 4 inches of crushed stone before adding concrete. Whether or not this extra step is necessary only time will tell. When ever possible I will use crushed stone packed tight around the post and no concrete. Generally only if I can get down 36" and only on line posts.
I agree. I also, as I have seen in another video, coat the bottom or in ground portion with used motor oil then tar to prevent rot and has done an amazing job. With that said, it was a short run.
I'm more interested in a beer review. What's the best beer to drink while installing a chain link fence? Sapporo Black?
Here in Oregon, our frost line is 18 inches, so we dig fence posts 24 inches.
Hey thanks for this! I'm wanting to set 4x4 old kiln dried beams that I reclaimed for gate posts. They are maybe 18 feet long and I'm wanting to hang a 12 foot livestock gate. Have you ever worked with older, non-pressure treated beams that were dried like this? How old could these posts be? Thanks for any insights !!
If it's not pressure treated, you must coat the part in the ground with a good wood preservative, like creosote.
I see a com box next to his fence and not diggers hot line marks l. Glad he didnt get hurt
7:49 Plumb. It's plumb. Amazing.
I'm sure there's only a hand full of people in the world that know the difference between plumb, level and square...
@@jabtothehead9942 Oh for sure. In one of my first construction jobs, the old guy said damn-it boy that is plumb. And I was, what? What are you talking about? That was 1988. You only have to tell me something one time.
remember all the "let's play" channels where zombies can watch someone play a video game right? this is just the "let's work" genre, same groove different vibe
I personally cover my posts with roofing tar from bottom to few inches above ground and never worry about rot
A quick and easy tip. Set the end posts first. Run a string from one end to the next, and allow all of the posts in between to BARELY touch the string for true alignment avoiding a waving fence line.
For chain link? Yes. For wood/vynl/ ornamental? No. You want every post to be on the string line. Solid advice setting the terminals first though!
I’ve heard using roofing tar to coat the post up to grade will help prevent rot where you backfill.
That could work, but I’d rather use a purpose-designed product like PostSaver.
I'm new here, but what about pouring concrete, using a post brace set into the concrete (like you would see on a pergola over concrete) and then attaching the post to the brace which will have a spacer at least an inch off the ground? Would this be beneficial for preventing post rot?
That sounds great, but there is a lot more work and expense if you are doing many posts, e.g., a fence line.
I’ve been woodworking for decades. Off heart wood is more likely to warp but heart wood is more likely to twist. A twist is worse than a warp.
Any thoughts on putting tar or other protective coating on the end of the post coming in contact with the ground? I've thought this might extend the life of the wood and protect from rot.
no need. If you suspended the post in the hole with a board at whatever measurement you want,mine is typically 2 feet, then dig your hole 26". when you set the post & level it it will suspend in the hole. Then pour your concrete & it will seal the bottom of the post.
Water will enter the post above ground and soak in. How does it escape out the bottom if it is fully encapsulated? Setting fully into cement also creates a cup that traps in water.
Concrete is also porous and will still allow moisture to get to your post.
@@JohnS-hp2xu Yes. If people want to waterproof their posts they should just use waterproof posts. 75 to 80% of the post is above ground getting soaked in the rain. Do people think the water suddenly jumps out when it soaks down to the ground level? Duh! People are so smart they're stupid.
I used flex seal at the base. We'll see how that turns out I guess lol
I have a 10” auger that u just have to slide a 2’ pole thru and turn it by hand. It’s perfect for dirt without a bunch of roots or trash. With a sharp shooter and that auger I can dig almost any post hole and a few. Mins. And I don’t need to rent an auger or the other related expense.
I usually like to add a kicker or 2 to brace it for leveling a lot easier if u don’t have a helper. Rocks or stone are a great idea innthe bottom of the hole.
I've dry set, I've mixed, and I've poured watered down and tamped it. Honestly it's all about the same in my opinion. I've dug up a dry set 6×6 post (set on the wrong side of the line) it was there 2 days and was solid. Had to bust off with a sledge. I find it easier to pour some dry then wet then add more then some water and tamp with a little rod done.
I just dug up 2/3 my fence that I had set a couple of months ago using 1-2-3 mix and had to use a breaker :D
Premade Postrcrete ones from a previous installation I dealt with in seconds weeks before that.
@@bipedalspecies2086 I haven't seen the premade postcrete.
@@j.hernandez983 I don't know if it's a UK/British thing and I should really have said 'premixed'. It's a cement sized bag with sand, cement and a little rock. It works out 3 times the cost of mixing your own so with 19 posts I bought a concrete mixer, putting up overall cost by about 50% and after done using it for the fence, rendering the garage and a few slabs I will sell it.
I like that it's fast, easy to use and sets within hours but its cost and strength in comparison doesn't add up to me. I have used postcrete/postmix and it's my first time mixing concrete, but at least I can gain some experience and knowledge doing this and the satisfaction at the end.
Hello Joe...I am rather new to DIY fence building projects...but do you reckon that painting the 2 feet that goes into the ground with an oil based paint for extra protection...especially the area where the surface of the soil meets the treated wood?
As i am building mine, I am paint dipping. Then setting in concrete.
@@rodx5571 Thanks for that clarification. Cheers!
You guys do so much stuff different to us lol