I have the deluxe version of this sharpener. It has two extra sharpeners for led holding or clutch type pencils. This sharpener is worth the money and small enough to carry it in your travel art bag.
I have a Kum sharpener, which I like, but the best automatic sharpener I have found for colored pencils, is the Panasonic KP-4A. It is no longer being made, takes 4 AA's, and spins freely, automatically, when the fine point is achieved. Several years ago I was able to acquire 10 units from old stock, which I will hoard. They cost about $20 when I bought my first one but a search now, if you can find them, states an asking price of $240. If you can find one, keep it.
I have Deluxe version of this sharpener,i use this one for Hard lead like the Verithin Prisma but not on my Prisma or Polychromos because they bites the leads in no time. Thank You for the Demo Jessica!
Does the KUM AUTOMATIC LONG POINT (multiple slots) have all the housing made of plastic? Or does it have any part made of metal apart from the blades? Which one sharpens a longer tip: the all-magnesium KUM MASTERPIECE (double slot) or the all-magnesium KUM LONG POINT 400-5L (single slot)? And compared to the all brass M+R CASTOR (single slot)?
Really good point about losing lead👍. I have KUM and many others you have on your desk Jennifer but lately I found the Staedtler mechanical sharpener which is a little costly but it never goes dull as it has no blades, the leads are super sharp and I find it is excellent at not losing much of the lead. I'm sold on it after sharpening over 300 pencils. Thanks for this video.🌹
Coloring Pages Bliss hi Jennifer. I think I'm actually using the helical blades Gooey Gooball below me is talking about esp with the mention of those cool shavings😘. It's not an electrical sharpener as such.
I did my own test on this. I took two new pencils and sharpened one with this sharpener. They remained the same length. If you don't go too far the product loss is miniscule. I actually like this one better than the two hole Kum or Alvin Bullet.
I think you have to keep sharpening with the step 1 until the lead physically stops against the stop barrier. At least that's what I've seen in other reviews. Thanks for all your sharpener reviews, they are great and so helpful for me :)
Right. It's meant to go all the way up to the "STOP" point where you can't go any further. Than in step 2 you only sharpen the lead, not the wood like seen in the Video. The amount of lost pigment is of course only when you sharpen them for the first time. It's also nice to have the option to only resharpen the lead if you coloring really tight or little spots. It's really a gift - if you are able to handle a long point like this. Heavy handed people may not. Also I think it's not for every colored pencil, I would be careful with e.g. Prismacolors (KUM only recommends this sharpener for graphite pencils, not for any colored pencils. At least here in germany it's in the descriptions)
sharpening news!! :D The webside from KUM is in modification and the shop is down, so I was very annoyed because they are hard to find in germany (yes, they're made here, I know). So I contactet KUM via Facebook and they respondet and asked me what sharpener I'm looking for. Of course I used this possibility to ask them. I asked a sharpener for: artist colored pencils and to get a long point but also for a more flat angle for softer leads, like Prismacolors. Also I'm a lefty but I told him that I don't have problems to use "normal" sharpeners. Please forgive me for using the google translator, but I'm too lazy today Here is an excerpt from the conversation: "Since colored pencils are slightly softer than those of pencil pencils, I recommend our 400-5L or the 202-stenograph for a long conical tip. The cone is not quite as pointed on these models as the "Automatic Long Point" or the "Masterpiece". For a shorter cone I recommend a normal single tip which we also use with the school tip. With the "Color-Kombi" you can also cut a round tip by a double knife system. All these products will be available in our shop. I will inform you as soon as it is online. For further questions you can contact me. Also by mail. Stefan.maldet@kum.net. Best regards" So, the ones he mentioned to me were: KUM 400-5L (< the "L" might stand for "lefty", please make sure you look that up if you are right handed!!), KUM 202-stenograph, KUM Color-Kombi Sadly I couldn't find them right now but I will wait until the shop is back online and look them up. original text: Da Buntstiftminen etwas weicher sind als die von Bleistiftiften empfehle ich für eine Langkonusspitze unseren 400-5L oder den 202-Stenograph. Der Konus ist bei diesen Modellen nicht ganz so spitz wie beim “Automatic Long Point“ oder dem “Masterpiece“. Für einen kürzeren Konus empfehle ich einen normalen Einfachspitzer welche wir auch bei den Schulspitzern verwenden. Mit dem “Color-Kombi“ haben Sie die Möglichkeit auch eine runde Stiftspitze durch ein Doppelmessersystem zu schneiden. All diese Produkte werden in unserem Shop erhältlich sein. Ich werde Sie informieren sobald er Online ist. Für weitere Fragen können Sie mich gerne kontaktieren. Gerne auch per mail. Stefan.maldet@kum.net. Viele Grüße
Hey, Jennifer. Thank you for all your super informative videos. A couple of points... LEAD/CORE WASTE: You'll only experience this amount of excess waste when sharpening your pencils the first time as long as you use this sharpener every time after that, as the waste comes from having to completely reshape the point. "MY PENCILS OFTEN BREAK WHILE BEING SHARPENED!" See the jar of shavings? Those types of shavings are produced by what I call "apple peel" sharpeners. Those are the sharpeners causing your problems with breakage! The problem is not with the pencil's lead/core, but with the WOOD. To solve this problem (even with Prismacolors!), get a HELICAL blade sharpener - manual or electric, doesn't matter as long as it has a helical blade. Other than sharpening your pencil with a knife, these are the only type of sharpener that can handle cheap/problem wood. ADDED BONUS: Helical sharpeners put an extra long point on pencils just like the Kum (or whatever brand) sharpener, without the extra cost, labor, or time. Also, I think the shavings look much cooler. :)
+Gooey Gooball, thanks for your insights. I have been researching helical sharpeners for a long time. The sharpeners I chose to review for this series are just manual standard sharpeners. I will move onto others in the future.
I have the deluxe version of this sharpener. It has two extra sharpeners for led holding or clutch type pencils. This sharpener is worth the money and small enough to carry it in your travel art bag.
My favorite hand held sharpener is the Prismacolor sharpener that’s the one I use for travel!
I have a Kum sharpener, which I like, but the best automatic sharpener I have found for colored pencils, is the Panasonic KP-4A. It is no longer being made, takes 4 AA's, and spins freely, automatically, when the fine point is achieved. Several years ago I was able to acquire 10 units from old stock, which I will hoard. They cost about $20 when I bought my first one but a search now, if you can find them, states an asking price of $240. If you can find one, keep it.
I have Deluxe version of this sharpener,i use this one for Hard lead like the Verithin Prisma but not on my Prisma or Polychromos because they bites the leads in no time. Thank You for the Demo Jessica!
Sylvie Dufour i think u meant Jennifer and not Jessica, no offense tho
Does the KUM AUTOMATIC LONG POINT (multiple slots) have all the housing made of plastic? Or does it have any part made of metal apart from the blades?
Which one sharpens a longer tip: the all-magnesium KUM MASTERPIECE (double slot) or the all-magnesium KUM LONG POINT 400-5L (single slot)?
And compared to the all brass M+R CASTOR (single slot)?
Really good point about losing lead👍. I have KUM and many others you have on your desk Jennifer but lately I found the Staedtler mechanical sharpener which is a little costly but it never goes dull as it has no blades, the leads are super sharp and I find it is excellent at not losing much of the lead. I'm sold on it after sharpening over 300 pencils. Thanks for this video.🌹
+Lo, thanks for the recommendation. I'm trying to decide which electric sharpener to try.
Coloring Pages Bliss hi Jennifer. I think I'm actually using the helical blades Gooey Gooball below me is talking about esp with the mention of those cool shavings😘. It's not an electrical sharpener as such.
I did my own test on this. I took two new pencils and sharpened one with this sharpener. They remained the same length. If you don't go too far the product loss is miniscule. I actually like this one better than the two hole Kum or Alvin Bullet.
+Renee Hughes thanks for your feedback. Very interesting.
I think you have to keep sharpening with the step 1 until the lead physically stops against the stop barrier. At least that's what I've seen in other reviews. Thanks for all your sharpener reviews, they are great and so helpful for me :)
+Marcos G V, good tip! Maybe I'm too timid, lol.
Right. It's meant to go all the way up to the "STOP" point where you can't go any further. Than in step 2 you only sharpen the lead, not the wood like seen in the Video.
The amount of lost pigment is of course only when you sharpen them for the first time.
It's also nice to have the option to only resharpen the lead if you coloring really tight or little spots. It's really a gift - if you are able to handle a long point like this. Heavy handed people may not. Also I think it's not for every colored pencil, I would be careful with e.g. Prismacolors (KUM only recommends this sharpener for graphite pencils, not for any colored pencils. At least here in germany it's in the descriptions)
+Kei Ner, awesome knowledge!! Thank you. 😊👍
sharpening news!! :D
The webside from KUM is in modification and the shop is down, so I was very annoyed because they are hard to find in germany (yes, they're made here, I know). So I contactet KUM via Facebook and they respondet and asked me what sharpener I'm looking for. Of course I used this possibility to ask them. I asked a sharpener for: artist colored pencils and to get a long point but also for a more flat angle for softer leads, like Prismacolors. Also I'm a lefty but I told him that I don't have problems to use "normal" sharpeners.
Please forgive me for using the google translator, but I'm too lazy today
Here is an excerpt from the conversation:
"Since colored pencils are slightly softer than those of pencil pencils, I
recommend our 400-5L or the 202-stenograph for a long conical tip. The cone is not quite as pointed on these models as the "Automatic Long Point" or the "Masterpiece". For a shorter cone I recommend a normal single tip which we also use with the school tip. With the "Color-Kombi" you can also cut a round tip by a double knife system. All these products will be available in our shop. I will inform you as soon as it is online. For further questions you can contact me. Also by mail. Stefan.maldet@kum.net. Best regards"
So, the ones he mentioned to me were: KUM 400-5L (< the "L" might stand for "lefty", please make sure you look that up if you are right handed!!), KUM 202-stenograph, KUM Color-Kombi
Sadly I couldn't find them right now but I will wait until the shop is back online and look them up.
original text:
Da Buntstiftminen etwas weicher sind als die von Bleistiftiften empfehle ich für eine Langkonusspitze unseren 400-5L oder den 202-Stenograph. Der Konus ist bei diesen Modellen nicht ganz so spitz wie beim “Automatic Long Point“ oder dem “Masterpiece“. Für einen kürzeren Konus empfehle ich einen normalen Einfachspitzer welche wir auch bei den Schulspitzern verwenden. Mit dem “Color-Kombi“ haben Sie die Möglichkeit auch eine runde Stiftspitze durch ein Doppelmessersystem zu schneiden. All diese Produkte werden in unserem Shop erhältlich sein. Ich werde Sie informieren sobald er Online ist. Für weitere Fragen können Sie mich gerne kontaktieren. Gerne auch per mail. Stefan.maldet@kum.net. Viele Grüße
Thanks for this! Awesome to get some infor from the company.
It might be cool for watercolor pencils :)
Hey, Jennifer. Thank you for all your super informative videos. A couple of points... LEAD/CORE WASTE: You'll only experience this amount of excess waste when sharpening your pencils the first time as long as you use this sharpener every time after that, as the waste comes from having to completely reshape the point.
"MY PENCILS OFTEN BREAK WHILE BEING SHARPENED!" See the jar of shavings? Those types of shavings are produced by what I call "apple peel" sharpeners. Those are the sharpeners causing your problems with breakage! The problem is not with the pencil's lead/core, but with the WOOD. To solve this problem (even with Prismacolors!), get a HELICAL blade sharpener - manual or electric, doesn't matter as long as it has a helical blade. Other than sharpening your pencil with a knife, these are the only type of sharpener that can handle cheap/problem wood. ADDED BONUS: Helical sharpeners put an extra long point on pencils just like the Kum (or whatever brand) sharpener, without the extra cost, labor, or time. Also, I think the shavings look much cooler. :)
+Gooey Gooball, thanks for your insights. I have been researching helical sharpeners for a long time. The sharpeners I chose to review for this series are just manual standard sharpeners. I will move onto others in the future.
Nice point but a lot of excess work to sharpen a pencil. I'll stick with my little double KUM sharpener. Thank you for all your time and evaluation.
+Kyralae Bredi, you're welcome. 😊
why does she keep the wood of pencils? .. that is strange
Not for me. Thanks for showing