One of the best vid I seen. Working on a boat, truck, tractor....... you explained everything very well. Only thing. Use new bolts..... cleaning them up doesn't show stress they may have endured
Great video. Thanks for this. your dedication to the details are well appreciated. Are ski boats and large cabin cruiser Velvet drive configuration similar? Two cruisers on my dock have problems. 1st vessel has a port side transmission noise and alarm (2006 Searay 270) and the second is a 1997 Searay 330 with no engagement. I'm worried now about my Searay 350 cruiser
Hey Ron love the lesson my mc vintage looks the same. Unfortunately I'm disabled, can't do a job like this. Can you tell what a job like this would cost?
Thanks Ron for this but I have one question. Why change from Borgwarner? I may have to do a rebuild on mine and they seem like an easy rebuild for someone like me that has rebuilt a few transmissions.
The only advantage is weight savings of 15-20 pounds as the ZF 45c is aluminum and the Borg-Warner 71c is cast iron. Both are 1:1 drives and neither the ZF or BW will handle full power reverse without cooking the reverse clutches.
ZF is less $$ and new warranty, If you are able to do your own rebuild, stay with the Borg Warner, replace the damper plate, flush the oil cooler. If paying a shop to do this the rebuild plus any hard parts approaches the cost of a new gear with new warranties.
Informative video can I ask is it possible to change rotation of the prop by turning oil pump around like you doo on a prm box would you know? I'm on about the 72c box thankyou very much
Hey Ron, what is an appropriate amount of wiggle/play with the dampener plate on the velvet drive. Should there be any wiggle at all? Or should it be a tight fit with the splines?
"Wiggle" between the damper splines and flywheel---0--- play, should feel like it is one piece, any ply indicates spring wear. Between the trans input shaft and damper spline hub, very very little if any at this joint.
Bilge had a foot of water and the motor will not turn over something has stuck. New started be six kicks in but will not turn the fresh 302 Ford marine motor
Ron, I had a question. I have two similar looking old velvet drives in my twin screw inboard. but both dipsticks are in different places. engine on the RIGHT CW rotation has the dipstick near the shift lever. The engine on the LEFT, which is CCW rotation, has the dipstick in the very back of the transmission. 1. What does this tell you about my transmission and why are they in different spots? 2. Curious if there's different areas that need to be checked for transmission fluid level? I've read where transmissions have gear oil and also transmission oil. I thought transmission's only had one area to check for oil and it's the same fluid throughout the entire transmission.
Parabens amigo sou seu fã, tenho uma caixa reversor Velvet num motor gm 4 cilindros gasolina...que não funciona, posso usar Óleo Cambio Dexron 3 ......o cambio caixa não tem pressão de óleo verifiquei tudo conforme manual mas mesmo assim não tem pressão. Muito obrigado amigo forte abraço, parabéns pelo belo trabalho.
Why replace the velvet drive with a ZF? My understanding is that the velvet drives are re buildable without too much problems. What's the advantage switching to a ZF?
Cost....If you can rebuild your own Velvet drive, and only need the basic rebuild kit you are better off, BUT if you need to replace any hard parts like worn or scored shafts etc. the parts prices for these have gone absolutely sky high. So a typical DIY rebuild could easily cost $900-1900 with NO LABOR, or a new ZF for approx. $1500 with new 2 year warranty.
We had a big problem with excess water in the bilge (a lot) and didn't notice for some time. Now the oil is our ZF45C is like milkshake. I've replaced the oil once and it's still milky - not sure if that's residual water so I'll replace it again and check. Any advice for what else to do or whether there might be some seals we should look at changing? I'm about to change the drive damper due to a rattle noise in neutral so might be a good time to do that as well. Thanks a ton! (Also fyi I have the ZF45C service manual and it says you have to check the oil level by screwing the dipstick all the way in - but not for the ZF40IV V drive portion - that one just gets dipped, not screwed to check level).
1) it takes several fluid changes to remove all signs of water 2) Water intrusion comes from one of two places, the vent on top of the gear, or a bad trans oil cooler, not water sloshing in the bilge 3) My ZF book and what I have practiced for years on the 45C is to check the levels without threading the stick into the case, what they don't tell you is that you need to do it immediately after shut to to account for oil drain back.
@@rontanis1024 thanks so much for your reply and your videos Ron. I'm just transcribing your video into a step by step Word doc so that I can follow and adapt it for my V drive - we need to replace the drive damper. When you have a Vee drive and need to change the damper, do you tend to take off the Vee and gearbox separately or keep them as one big lump? Thanks so much - you will definitely be my first port of call for parts from now on. Far be it for an amateur like me to suggest anything to a pro such as you, but I'll email you the ZF operating manual they sent me just last week - it definitely says for the main unit (ZF45C) you completely screw the dipstick to check level but for the V Drive portion (ZF40IV) you insert the dipstick without screwing. Guess it doesn't make a huge difference unless at the low or high limit.. I take your point that the crucial issue is to catch it while it's still hot because the oil quantity in the cooler is not 'known' by the dipstick :-)
2 ปีที่แล้ว +1
hi you, I am from Vietnam, can you help me buy for me gearbox, I need ZF 45C 1:1 stranmission for my boat
I need help getting a heavy duty 26 tooth dry dampener. I’m also looking for a seawater strainer. I own a 96’ pro star 205 MasterCraft. Could you help me out??
I need to replace the flywheel on my boat sand I like how you removed the rear deck piece And put board across to sit on. I can’t see how to remove the rear seat frame on my boat I see no screws or bolts I’m thinking they put carpet on after building the frame do you have any suggestions
We have overhead cranes in the shop so lifting is quick & safe, I usually find it easier to cut the short exhaust hoses & replace with new saving time, I figure around 4 hours for a direct drive, and MUCH more for Vee drives.
One of the best vid I seen. Working on a boat, truck, tractor....... you explained everything very well. Only thing. Use new bolts..... cleaning them up doesn't show stress they may have endured
You are the best teacher Ron, Thank you so much for this great video and all of the instructions.
Improve Siri dictation and came up on my screen so what the hell is that
Excellent video. This includes excellent pictures to thoroughly explain what's needed. Great effort. Thanks.
I just got my replacement transmission from you today, so I will be tackling this upgrade soon.
Thanks for Sharing, Ron. Nice presentation.
great video, thank you for posting
Great video. Thanks for this. your dedication to the details are well appreciated. Are ski boats and large cabin cruiser Velvet drive configuration similar? Two cruisers on my dock have problems. 1st vessel has a port side transmission noise and alarm (2006 Searay 270) and the second is a 1997 Searay 330 with no engagement. I'm worried now about my Searay 350 cruiser
Hey Ron love the lesson my mc vintage looks the same. Unfortunately I'm disabled, can't do a job like this. Can you tell what a job like this would cost?
Seems like most shops will charge 7-10 hours labor at the rate for your area, here it is $95 per hour.
Exelente explicación.
Thanks Ron for this but I have one question. Why change from Borgwarner? I may have to do a rebuild on mine and they seem like an easy rebuild for someone like me that has rebuilt a few transmissions.
The only advantage is weight savings of 15-20 pounds as the ZF 45c is aluminum and the Borg-Warner 71c is cast iron. Both are 1:1 drives and neither the ZF or BW will handle full power reverse without cooking the reverse clutches.
ZF is less $$ and new warranty, If you are able to do your own rebuild, stay with the Borg Warner, replace the damper plate, flush the oil cooler. If paying a shop to do this the rebuild plus any hard parts approaches the cost of a new gear with new warranties.
Informative video can I ask is it possible to change rotation of the prop by turning oil pump around like you doo on a prm box would you know? I'm on about the 72c box thankyou very much
Yes, but this is "adjustable' based on engine rotation, the only time you reverse the gear is when a reverse rotation engine is being used.
Hey Ron, what is an appropriate amount of wiggle/play with the dampener plate on the velvet drive. Should there be any wiggle at all? Or should it be a tight fit with the splines?
"Wiggle" between the damper splines and flywheel---0--- play, should feel like it is one piece, any ply indicates spring wear. Between the trans input shaft and damper spline hub, very very little if any at this joint.
Bilge had a foot of water and the motor will not turn over something has stuck.
New started be six kicks in but will not turn the fresh 302 Ford marine motor
Ever had a clutch stick to the flywheel keeping the motor from turning over ?
Can't say that I have, but I have seen some ugly corosion-frozen parts before on neglected boats.
You are amazing. God bless you
Can you write all torque specs that you used? Cause you mentioned only Bell housing
Ron, I had a question. I have two similar looking old velvet drives in my twin screw inboard. but both dipsticks are in different places. engine on the RIGHT CW rotation has the dipstick near the shift lever. The engine on the LEFT, which is CCW rotation, has the dipstick in the very back of the transmission.
1. What does this tell you about my transmission and why are they in different spots?
2. Curious if there's different areas that need to be checked for transmission fluid level? I've read where transmissions have gear oil and also transmission oil. I thought transmission's only had one area to check for oil and it's the same fluid throughout the entire transmission.
Call Ron when you have a minute 985-542-4336
Parabens amigo sou seu fã, tenho uma caixa reversor Velvet num motor gm 4 cilindros gasolina...que não funciona, posso usar Óleo Cambio Dexron 3 ......o cambio caixa não tem pressão de óleo verifiquei tudo conforme manual mas mesmo assim não tem pressão. Muito obrigado amigo forte abraço, parabéns pelo belo trabalho.
Why replace the velvet drive with a ZF? My understanding is that the velvet drives are re buildable without too much problems. What's the advantage switching to a ZF?
Cost....If you can rebuild your own Velvet drive, and only need the basic rebuild kit you are better off, BUT if you need to replace any hard parts like worn or scored shafts etc. the parts prices for these have gone absolutely sky high. So a typical DIY rebuild could easily cost $900-1900 with NO LABOR, or a new ZF for approx. $1500 with new 2 year warranty.
@@rontanis1024 thank you. That makes sense. Fun watching your videos. Learning!!
Could you tell me what size bolts/studs I will need to make this conversion? TIA
Question for you: Why use Dex3 when Mobil 424 is required from velvet drive? V-drives 1987 71c
Because I installed a ZF 45C which requires ATF Dextron III, most of the older B/W trans also call for Dex III
We had a big problem with excess water in the bilge (a lot) and didn't notice for some time. Now the oil is our ZF45C is like milkshake. I've replaced the oil once and it's still milky - not sure if that's residual water so I'll replace it again and check. Any advice for what else to do or whether there might be some seals we should look at changing? I'm about to change the drive damper due to a rattle noise in neutral so might be a good time to do that as well. Thanks a ton! (Also fyi I have the ZF45C service manual and it says you have to check the oil level by screwing the dipstick all the way in - but not for the ZF40IV V drive portion - that one just gets dipped, not screwed to check level).
1) it takes several fluid changes to remove all signs of water
2) Water intrusion comes from one of two places, the vent on top of the gear, or a bad trans oil cooler, not water sloshing in the bilge
3) My ZF book and what I have practiced for years on the 45C is to check the levels without threading the stick into the case, what they don't tell you is that you need to do it immediately after shut to to account for oil drain back.
@@rontanis1024 thanks so much for your reply and your videos Ron. I'm just transcribing your video into a step by step Word doc so that I can follow and adapt it for my V drive - we need to replace the drive damper. When you have a Vee drive and need to change the damper, do you tend to take off the Vee and gearbox separately or keep them as one big lump? Thanks so much - you will definitely be my first port of call for parts from now on. Far be it for an amateur like me to suggest anything to a pro such as you, but I'll email you the ZF operating manual they sent me just last week - it definitely says for the main unit (ZF45C) you completely screw the dipstick to check level but for the V Drive portion (ZF40IV) you insert the dipstick without screwing. Guess it doesn't make a huge difference unless at the low or high limit.. I take your point that the crucial issue is to catch it while it's still hot because the oil quantity in the cooler is not 'known' by the dipstick :-)
hi you, I am from Vietnam, can you help me buy for me gearbox, I need ZF 45C 1:1 stranmission for my boat
We are currently out of stock, expect more in by the end of January 2022
@@rontanis1024 hope you help me, if you have you can contact me, thank so much
I need help getting a heavy duty 26 tooth dry dampener. I’m also looking for a seawater strainer. I own a 96’ pro star 205 MasterCraft. Could you help me out??
Under 300HP: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboard-engine-parts/%20Drive/drive-damper-MED-0005
Over 300HP: skiboatpartsonline.com/inboard-engine-parts/%20Drive/drive-damper-PCM-Indmar-Marine%20Power
Strainer: skiboatpartsonline.com/Sea-water-Strainer-ASC-0005?search=strainer
Fittings: skiboatpartsonline.com/Elbow-Fitting-Seawater-Strainer?search=strainer
Fittings: skiboatpartsonline.com/Straight-Fitting-Seawater-Strainer?search=strainer
When doing this conversion can you reuse the same prop shaft coupler?
Yes, they are both 4" couplers
I need to replace the flywheel on my boat sand I like how you removed the rear deck piece And put board across to sit on. I can’t see how to remove the rear seat frame on my boat I see no screws or bolts I’m thinking they put carpet on after building the frame do you have any suggestions
Well, I don't know what kind of boat your working on?? pics also help
It’s a 1991 Cheyenne, I’ll send a couple pics too
Where can i get the cup holder piece on the back of the dog house?
That's a MasterCraft made part, try your local MC Shop
What engine does this boat have in it?
That one had a 5.7 GM, same trans is used on the GM or Ford engines
@@rontanis1024 Great thank you! Do you know if the 351w had a similar flywheel that was indented in the middle like the 5.7 in the video? Thanks
@@neavemckinnon They all have a bit of a recess in the center
Great video. What is the estimated time it took to swap out the transmission? I have a 2002 Centurion with a Velvet Drive 10-17-004 71C
We have overhead cranes in the shop so lifting is quick & safe, I usually find it easier to cut the short exhaust hoses & replace with new saving time, I figure around 4 hours for a direct drive, and MUCH more for Vee drives.
@@rontanis1024 Thanks Ron you'er great. Love the videos
that muffler would have to go.